1 Introduction To Photoshop Elements 6.0

Transcript

Introduction to Photoshop Elements 6.0-Monday Basics of a Digital File: 1. Every digital image is made up of Pixels, an abbreviation for picture element, employing the abbreviation pix for picture. A pixel is a single point that can be represented as a square, circle or virtually any shape. 2. Every camera has a certain maximum number of pixels which it can capture. I. For example, if a camera has a max sensor size of 2,000x3,000 pixel elements, it captures a total of 6 million pixels, and can be described as a 6 megapixel camera. II. Resolution is often defined with reference to the height and width of an image and by the total number of pixels it contains. When not fine enough, pixels are visible to the human eye. III. Common File Types Photoshop can open and save 35 different types of files. You can identify a file type by the 3 letter extension following the file. RAW-NEF or CR2 -The RAW file is the largest file, containing the most information which can be obtained by your camera. -The file must be shot as a RAW file originally. You must change the settings in your camera to obtain a RAW file. -Because a RAW file has the most information, you have the most options when editing. -Very few programs are able to read and edit a RAW file. JPG- Joint Photographic Experts Group - It is typically used for full color web images and photographs because it is able to compress the images file size. PSD- Photoshops native file format. -It is the default file format. -It is the only format that will support ALL photoshop features. -If you are sending this file to someone, they may not be able to open a file with this extension. Tif/TIFF- Tagged Image File Format - It is excellent for cross platform purposes—printing, importing to almost all programs for layout, and drawing. - It preserves layers, and editable type, grids, and guidelines. Organizer: 1. With the “Organizer” you can view your images in a variety of sizes, apply tags, organize by date, etc. There are two main parts of the Organizer, the Photo Browser, and the Organize Bin. 2. The Organize Bin o It is located on the right side of the window and is home to the Albums and Keyword Tag Palettes. These are two ways you can further organize your images. 3. To select Thumbnails, you can just click on the image. When there is a blue line around the image, it is selected. o When you want to select multiple images in a row, click on the first image in the sequence, then hold down the shift key and click on the last image. o If you wish to select non-sequential images, hold down the CTRL key while clicking on the images. o To select all images, press CTRL + A. 4. To Rename A Photo: 1 o In Photo Browser, select an image. o Go to WINDOW—Properties, or press Alt+Enter. o Enter a new name for your image in the Name Field. TONING Getting Familiar With The Full Edit Mode • As always with any Photoshop program, your Menu Bar will be visible at the top of your screen. o This is where it reads File, Edit… Each tab will allow you to complete specific tasks. o To the right, you will see a button that reads Undo, and one that reads Redo. ! Here you can step backward, or forward, if you have made a mistake. The short cut for Undo is CTRL+z. o The next button you will see is Organize. This will allow you to return to the Organizing screen. o Lastly, the three boxes in the top right corner will allow you to minimize, expand, or close your entire window, and close down the program. ! If you just want to close down the picture you are working on, click on the top right corner of the interior window that is surrounding your picture. • Palettes are the floating windows within the full edit mode. On the right side of your screen you will find your Layers Palette. o Here you will be able to see the various layers that you are working with, and you will also be able to apply effects, such as levels, here. o When the eye to the left of a Level is visible, the level, and its’ effects, are also visible. If the eye is not visible, neither are the elements or effect of the level. • On the left side, you will find the Tool Bar. o This is where all of your tools are located. You cannot stop using a tool, or make your cursor go away, you just simply select another tool. • When you have a tool selected, the Option Bar for that specific tool will become visible at the top of your screen below the Menu Bar. o The option bar lets you tweak the settings of the tool you have selected. • To the right of your Options Bar, you will see three tabs reading Edit, Create, Share. o Edit will allow you to alter your images. This is where we will do the majority of our work. o Create will allow you to create new works, compilations, or files. o Share will allow you to share your images over the web, or in other fashions. • If you are using the Edit mode, you will see tabs reading Full, Quick, Guided below the Edit, Create, Share tabs. o These are the types of editing you may choose from. • Full gives you total control of the editing. • Quick is much more simple, and gives you less control. • Guided takes you through the steps of certain settings. Review of tools. Move ToolZoom ToolHand ToolColor Sample ToolMarquee ToolLasso ToolMagic Wand ToolQuick Selection ToolText ToolCrop ToolHealing Brush ToolRubber Stamp ToolEraser ToolBrush Tool2 • At the very bottom at the center, you will see the Project Bin. o If you have multiple files open, you will see the thumbnails here. Adjusting Exposure/Lighting Using Levels 1. Open image to be adjusted. 2. Go to ENHANCE—Adjust lighting—Levels a. A new dialog box will appear. b. In this dialog box, your histogram will appear. This histogram represents the tonal values of your image. c. The shadows are represented by the left side, the highlights by the right side, and the mid tones by the middle section. d. Ideally, you would like your histogram to be totally contained within the confines of the visible area. If your histogram goes off the edge on either side, there is ‘clipping’, or a loss of information. This is a bad thing, but is not the end of the world. 3. To increase the amount of blacks in your image, drag the small arrow on the bottom left of the histogram towards the center. To lighten your highlights, drag the slider on the right towards the center. By dragging both of those towards the center, you will increase the contrast of your image. To darken your mid tones, drag the center slider to the left. To lighten your mid tones, drag the center slider to the right. 4. Click OK when you are done. You will see that your settings have been applied to your image. Be sure not to do anything too drastic as it will lessen the quality of your image. 5. You can also access the levels adjustment by clicking on the half black, half white circle in the layers palette. By doing so, you will have created a new layer. Adjusting Lighting Using Shadows/Highlights 1. Open image to be adjusted. 2. Go to ENHANCE—Adjust lighting—Shadows/Highlights a. A new dialog box will appear. 3. Once the dialog box is open, you can opt to do one or all of the following: b. Drag the Lighten Shadows slider to the right to lighten the shadows, and to the right to intensify the shadow. c. Drag the Darken Highlights slider to the right until you see enough detail in the brightly lit areas. d. Drag the Midtone Contrast slider to the right to increase the contrast, or to the left to decrease the contrast. 4. Click OK when you are done. Adjusting Lighting Using Brightness/Contrast 1. Open image to be adjusted. 2. Go to ENHANCE—Adjust lighting—Brightness Contrast e. A new dialog box will appear. 3 3. Once the dialog box is open, you can opt to do one or all of the following: f. Drag the slider to the right to lighten the overall image, and to the left to darken it. g. To increase the contrast in the image, drag the slider to the right. To decrease the contrast of the image, drag the slider to the left. h. You can click the Preview button on and off to see the difference the setting will make. 4. Click OK when you are done. Using Color Curves: 1. Open image to be adjusted. 2. Enhance!Adjust Color!Adjust Color Curves!Pop up dialogue opens. 3. You are given several options, or presets, to enhance your image. Pick the one to the left that is most appropriate and that looks the best. a. You will see sliders for Hilights, Brightnes, Contrast, Shadows and a Curve. b. As you adjust the sliders, you will see the curve move. i. This option gives you much more control over the adjustments being made to your image. The upper dot controls the highlights, the center point represents the midtones, and the lower left points represent the shadows. ii. Any time that you make the curve steeper, or more like an “S”, you increase the contrast. The flatter it is, the lower the contrast. iii. Click OK to apply changes. Basic Terms of Toning Exposure- the total amount of light allowed to fall on the photographic medium(sensor) during the process of taking a photograph. However, this is not always the correct exposure, and can be altered after in Elements. Exposure has to do more with shadows and highlights, than it does with colors. Highlights- the brighter, or lighter, areas of an image. Shadows-the dimmer, or darker, areas of an image. Cropping an Image in Full Edit Mode 1. Select the crop tool in your tool box on the left, or hit the C key. 2. On your image, drag the crop tool around the area you want to keep. a. The area outside the dotted line will be deleted. 3. To modify your selection, grab one of the boxes on the edge, click, hold and drag to your liking. If you want to straighten, take your mouse outside of the selection box. A curved tool with an arrow on either end will appear. Look for a straight line, either vertical or horizontal, and try to align an edge with it by clicking, holding and rotating your selection. 4. When you are satisfied, double click within the selection, or click on the green check mark to finalize your crop. Cropping To A Certain Size 1. Select the crop tool in your tool box on the left, or hit the C key. 2. In the Options Bar you will see an area where you can type in “Width”, “Height”, and “Resolution”. Here, you can type in certain dimensions in either pixels, inches, or centimeters. If you do not type in a unit, it will default to pixels. Be careful of this! 3. To swap the width and height, click on the arrows facing in opposite directions in between the words width and height. 300 is a standard resolution to work with if you are printing an image. If you do not type anything in, the resolution will remain the same. a. To clear the settings, click on the “Clear” button to the right side of the Options Bar. 4. On your image, drag the crop tool around the area you want to keep. You will notice that you are now bound to certain proportions. a. The area outside the dotted line will be deleted. 4 5. To modify your selection, grab one of the boxes on the edge, click, hold and drag to your liking. If you want to straighten, take your mouse outside of the selection box. A curved tool with an arrow on either end will appear. Look for a straight line, either vertical or horizontal, and try to align an edge with it by clicking, holding and rotating your selection. 6. When you are satisfied, double click within the selection, or click on the green check mark to finalize your crop. Straighten Tool 1. Select the Straighten Tool from your tool bar. 2. Click, hold and drag your mouse along a straight, horizontal line in your image. Let go of the mouse. 3. Elements will re-align your image to be straight along the line you drew. 4. You will notice there are areas that need to be cropped in. Use the crop tool to eliminate any dead space created by the straightening. Using the Grid 1. The grid is great for maintaining scale and symmetry as well as keeping things aligined. 2. To show/hide the grid, go to VIEW—Grid. You can also choose to “Snap” elements to the grid. Histogram 1. The histogram is a graphic representation of the tonal range of an image. 2. The length of each bar represents the number of pixels at each brightness level. a. The darkest tones are found on the left, the lightest tones to the right. b. If the histogram extends to the edges of the histogram box, it has full tonal range. c. If the histogram does not extend all the way to the edges, the lightest and darkest areas are some form of gray. Because of this, your image may lack contrast. 3. Whatever your histogram looks like, you can adjust it using the sliders below. Color Models/Modes --Computers use numbers systems called color models to reproduce color. The one we will use the most is RBG, red green blue. Different combinations of these three colors make up your photograph. These colors are used because our eyes are sensitive to RGB. The computer does the best it can, but will never see as clearly as your eye. --A Color Mode tells your computer which model will display and print your images. Elements has four possible modes: RGB, Grayscale, Bitmap and Indexed. Elements does not support CMYK which is commonly used for publishing. 1. RGB mode: The combination of these three channels creates the full color image you see. You can often adjust these channels independently. 2. Grayscale mode: Has 256 shades of gray. From RGB to Grayscale you will only have one channel, and therefore a much smaller file. 3. Bitmap mode: Really is a black and white image. Each pixel is black or white. 4. Indexed mode: Limited to 256 colors. Strictly for viewing on a monitor. 5. CMYK: Stands for cyan, magenta, yellow, black. This is very accurate, and is often used for printing, and web. To Change Color Mode: 1. IMAGE—Mode and choose the new mode. Grayscale will ask if you want to discard color info. Say yes. 2. Click OK. White Balance 1. White balance is the way that your camera reads the temperature of the light. You can either set the white balance to a certain temperature of light, or you can ask your camera to do the best it can automatically. Generally, auto white balance works fine. 5 2. White balance works on a number system, in coordination with the temperature of the color of the light that is illuminating your scene. We refer to each type of light by it’s color temperatures. 3. If your image looks as though it has a color cast, or is tinted to a color that is not correct, most likely your white balance was confused, or set incorrectly. a. Not to worry, this can be corrected in the next step. Color Balance 1. To correct the color cast, and balance the color of our photos… a. The first is use Auto Color Correct, which is found under ENHANCE—Auto Color Correct. This adjustment generally does a good job if there is a white or black that it can go off. Hue/Saturation 1. We can use Hue/Saturation for several things, two of which are adding saturation to an image, and adding a tint to our image. 2. To add saturation to your image go to Enhance—Adjust Color—Adjust Hue/Saturation. a. A new dialog box will appear with a Hue, Saturation, and Brightness slider. b. To add saturation, drag the saturation slider to the right. To decrease the saturation drag the slider to the left. If you drag it all the way to the left, you will get an image without any color. 3. To change the tint, or colorize your image, make sure the colorize button is checked on. This converts all of the color in your image to one color. Then drag your hue slider until you find the color you desire. You will see the color spectrum shift along the bottom. a. Check OK. Retouching Blemishes Using the Clone Stamp 1. Select the Clone stamp tool from the tool box or press S. 2. From the Options Bar at the top of your window select a brush that is slightly larger than the blemish you wish to remove. Also, make sure you have a soft brush. 3. Bring your mouse just next to the area you wish to repair. Make sure this area is of similar color to the area you are fixing. Hold the ALT button down and your mouse becomes a cross hare. a. Click down, then release the Alt key. You have now determined a source for the computer to draw from. 4. Now click on the area you wish to repair, holding no keys down. Hold the mouse down, and paint on the area you need to fix. 5. The original piece of the image will be replaced with the new pixels. Retouching Images Using the Spot Healing Brush Tool 1. Select the Spot Healing Brush(the band aid tool) or press J 2. On the Options bar next to the mode, select either Proximity Match or Create Texture. a. Proximity Match will use the pixels around the area sampled to retouch the blemish. b. Create Texture will take the pixels directly under the area you select and soften into a texture. 3. Select a brush that is just barely larger than the blemish you wish to repair. 4. Click and release to activate the function. Retouching Blemishes Using the Healing Brush Tool 1. Select the healing brush tool from your tool box. 2. Switch the mode to Normal in the drop down window in the options bar. 3. Select a brush that is just barely larger than the blemish you wish to repair. 4. Place your cursor over an area that you want to use as a sampling point to retouch a blemish. Hold the ALT key and click down to define the source point. 5. Hold down the mouse and paint over the area you want to touch up. 6. The area will blend with the pixels to fix any flaws. 6 Introduction to Photoshop Elements 6.0-Wednesday Editing an Image in Camera RAW 1. RAW images are not compressed like a jpeg. A RAW file will capture all of the color info that was captured at the time the image was shot. a. Camera RAW tools: i. Zoom(z) use to zoom in or out on the image ii. Hand (H) use to navigate around a zoomed in image iii. White Balance (I) use to set the WB automatically iv. Color Sampler(S) place a sampler tool & extract info v. Crop (C) apply a crop, straighten, set aspect ratio & size vi. Retouch Tool (B) use to touch up a blemish or remove a dust spot. vii. ACR Preferences-opens Adobe Camera Raw Preferences. viii. Rotate (L) (R) use to rotate 90 to left or right b. Camera RAW can also open multiple images at once. This can allow you to look at all of the images even closer up than in Bridge. You will also have the option of rating your images here. i. If you hold the CTRL/Apple button down while clicking on the Select All button in the multiple view mode of RAW you will be viewing only the images that you have given rating. c. The Basic Panel Controls are found on the right hand side of your RAW edit window. I generally go in the order that they are found. i. White Balance—when shooting in RAW, it really doesn’t matter what you set your white balance as, you can always adjust it in post production. It is referring to the color temperature of the light and is measured in degrees Kelvin. It ranges from Tungsten, which emits a low warm color temperature, to daylight, which has a higher, bluer temperature. 1. As the default, it will be set at “As Shot” but you can use the slider or select a preset if it doesn’t look right. 2. If you have an area of you picture that is meant to be white, or off white, you can use your White Balance tool and click on that area. This should correct your white balance, but as you will see, doesn’t always work. ii. Exposure—the exposure slider sets the overall brightness of the images, so that the image appears to have a good exposure. iii. Recovery—this slider will help bring detail back into any highlight areas. If you hold down the ALT key while sliding, you will see a Threshold Preview. This will show you where there is a total loss of information. iv. Fill Light—adds lightness to the darker shadow areas. This works a bit like a fill flash on your camera. Be careful no to go too far here, as you will begin to lose contrast quickly. 7 v. Blacks—this slider is the exact opposite of the Recovery slider. It will make sure that you have rich blacks, and deep shadows, but again if you hold down the ALT key you can see exactly where you begin to have clipping. vi. You can use the Brightness and Contrast Sliders to adjust each accordingly, or you can do this in the Tone Curve panel, where you will have a bit more control. vii. Vibrance—allows you to add saturation to an image which already has very bright colors. The colors which are not so bright, or saturated, will receive the boosted saturation, and the already saturated colors will remain the same. The vibrance slider also has a built in skin tone protector keeping the skin from becoming orange or over saturated. viii. Saturation—this adjustment will saturate all colors and intensities the same amount. d. Tone Curve Panel: i. this panel allows you to make adjustments that will add onto the initial adjustments made in the basic window. 1.In the Point Curve mode, you will see a default Medium Contrast Curve that will add a moderate amount of contrast to your image. This is a good place to start, but if you need to add more, carefully drag the points until you are satisfied. 2.In the Parametric Curve mode, you have the option to drag the sliders instead of having to click on the sometimes hard to control dots. There are no rules here, just play with the sliders until you find a point you like. d. The Detail Panel i. Here you have the option to adjust the amount of sharpening, but I recommend doing this in Photoshop. ii. You also have a tool to lessen artifacts(noise) in your image. Use the luminance slider to smooth out the clumpiness and use the Color Noise Reduction slider to soften, and sometimes remove the colored speckles. Be careful not to go too far here, or your image will become blurry. e. The HSL/Grayscale Panel i. Here you have 8 color sliders that you can use to control the Hue, Saturation and Luminance. This allows you much more control over the individual colors that you may find in your image. 8 ii. If you click on “Convert to Grayscale” your image will change to black and white and is actually a mix between Grayscale and color. 1. You can then drag the sliders to adjust the image to your liking, making particular colors either darker or lighter. 2. When converting to a Black and White image, you should also switch back to the Basic Panel to play with the white balance, and to the Tone Curve panel to play with the contrast. f. Split Toning Panel: i. this panel can be used to colorize an image that has been converted to black and white. You can apply one color to the highlights and another to the shadows followed by the saturation slider to adjust the intensity. The balance slider allows you to set a midpoint for the split tone. f. Vignette Control—is found in the Lens Corrections Panel. i. You can choose to decrease a vignetting effect, or increase it. You can use the sliders to adjust the amount and the midpoint. BLACK & WHITE Using Hue/Saturation to Create a Black & White Image 1. Go to Enhance—Adjust Color—Adjust Hue/Saturation. a. A new dialog box will appear with a Hue, Saturation, and Brightness slider. b. Drag the saturation slider all the way to the left to desaturate the image. If you drag it all the way to the left, you will get an image without any color, or a black and white image. c. Check OK. 2. Your image may look very flat, or lack contrast. To correct this either use the curves tool, the levels tool, or the brightness/contrast tool to increase the contrast in your image. Converting to Black and White/Channel Mixer 1. Open image in the Editor. 2. Duplicate your background layer, and apply the changes to this layer in case you make mistakes. 3. Go to ENHANCE—Convert To Black And White a. A new dialog box will appear. 4. You can choose a preset from the “Select a style” drop down to start with. 5. Using the Adjustment Intensity Sliders you can adjust the intensity of the Red, Green and Blue Channels that make up your image. a. Depending on the image, and what tones it contains, different amounts of each color will result in a different effect. b. Then adjust the contrast. Most people prefer to add contrast to B&W images. 6. When you are pleased with the way your image looks, click OK. 7. 9 Dodging and Burning 1. To lighten a specific area of your image, select the dodging tool. It looks like a lollipop. 2. In your options bar select the size of the brush you need to cover the area you would like to alter. 3. Next, select the range you would like to effect. If you would like to lighten your shadows, select shadows. If you would like to alter the midtones, select midtones…and so on. 4. Lastly select the exposure you would like to use. If you want to drastically lighten a section of your image, select a higher number. I recommend selecting a smaller number, and altering your image gradually. 5. To darken a specific area of your image, select the burning tool. It looks like a hand making an O shape. 6. In your options bar select the size of the brush you need to cover the area you would like to darken. 7. Next, select the range you would like to effect. If you would like to darken your shadows, select shadows. If you would like to darken the midtones, select midtones…and so on with your highlights. 8. Lastly select the exposure you would like to use. If you want to drastically darken a section of your image, select a higher number. I recommend selecting a smaller number, and darkening your image gradually. 9. Be careful not to go too far, as you will eventually get black, or white on your image. Canvas Size 2. Canvas size refers to the dimensions of an entire project, generally in inches or pixels, and resolution. This tool allows you to add on to the outer edges of your image. Your image size remains the same, but the overall canvas size increases. 3. You can view your Canvas size by going to Image!Resize!Canvas Size!Pop Up Window. Color Sampling 2. To sample a color, you active the color picker tool which looks like an eye dropper. 3. When you click on a certain color, the info, and numbers related to that color will appear in the info box on the top right of your screen. It will also fill the foreground color box just below your tool bar. 4. If you would like to know more info on the color you have selected, double click on the foreground color box. a. A new window will appear with all sorts of info about that color. This can be very helpful if you want to match a color to use for text, that is also in an image. Using the Clone Stamp To Copy One Part of an Image to Another 5. Open both the image which you wish to take from, and the image you wish to transfer to. 6. Select the Clone Stamp tool. 7. Check the Aligned option on in the options bar. a. This makes the computer copy pixels relative to the initial sampling point even if you release the mouse. (If you deselect the Aligned option, every time you release the mouse, you will copy pixels from the initial sampling point) 8. Hold down the ALT key and select your starting sample point from the image you are drawing from. 9. Click on the second images window to activate it. 10. You may now start cloning a piece of the first image onto the second. Selection Tools We will use the selection tools to select pixels which will then be edited in some fashion—cut, copy, paste, etc. 1. The marquee selection tools give you the choices of rectangle, elliptical, and single row/column tools. 2. The Lasso tool allows you to draw freehand, while the polygonal lasso tool allows you to draw freehand, and along a straight line. The magnetic lasso is like an auto lasso and tries to detect an edge you are trying to trace. 3. The quick selection tool is a newer take on the magic wand tool. Both of these allow you to make a selection based on the color of a pixel(s). Simply activate the tool and start painting over the pixels you wish to select. The pixels in the surrounding area with similar color value will also be selected. NOTE: in 10 your options bar you have the choice to switch the mode of your selection tool to add, or subtract. This allows you to correct a selection if the computer has selected pixels that you do not want selected. a. You may also switch between tools during the middle of the selection process. SELECTIONS Once you have made a selection, you can do various things with it. First, lets bring one part of an image to another using the Quick Selection tool. 1. Click on the Quick Selection tool. Then start painting over the area you wish to select. If you start to select an area you hoped not to select, hold down your alt key and click on that area again. It should deselect. 2. Once you have your entire area selected, go to EDIT—copy, or hit CTRL+C. 3. Activate the image that you wish to copy your selection to. Go to EDIT—paste, or hit CTRL+V. A new layer should have been formed with your selection. 4. You will notice there is still a bounding box around your selection. If you click and drag on the corner of the box, you will be allowed to resize or transform your selection. 5. Once you like how your image looks, hit the enter/return button to accept the changes. You will now have two layers on your palette. a. To import part of another image, simply repeat steps 1-5. 6. If you now have multiple layers on your palette, you can drag and drop them to change the order, and dictate which layer is on top of the other. Layers 1. Your layers palette is on the right side of your screen. 2. You will automatically start with a Background Layer, which is locked. a. This layer is blue or gray, which denotes that it is the “active” layer. Any change you make will affect the active layer. b. To activate a layer, you simply click on it. 3. To create a new layer, click on the page turning tab in the bottom right corner of the Layers palette. This will create an empty new layer called “Layer 1.” 4. To copy your background layer, click hold and drag your Background Layer over the page turning button. This will create a new layer called “Background Copy.” It is a duplicate of your original layer. DPI and PPI • The number of pixels in an image is finite, but you can print that image at varying sizes and ppi(pixels per inch). • PPI—pixels per inch—this is a description of the digital, pixel resolution of a file. PPI is used for all files that come from an input device like a camera or a scanner. • DPI—dots per inch—this is a description of the resolution of a printing device. DPI is used for any output device such as an inkjet printer. Inkjet printers produce an output made up of tiny dots to create an image. Image Size 1. Image size refers to the actual dimensions of your image, generally in inches or pixels, and resolution. 2. You can view your image size by going to Image!Resize!Image Size!Pop Up Window. Resizing Images 1. Open Image 2. Image!Resize!Image Size!Pop Up Window a. Here you can see the Pixel Dimensions, and Size in Inches, as well as the Resolution. i. The Resolution is very important in relation to your output. 72 dpi for web, 300 dpi for high quality printing. ii. To readjust an image without actually changing it, keep the “Resample Image” option on. To actually change the size, toggle the resample on. Now you can increase the Resolution without changing the dimensions. 11 1. Under Resample, you have the choice of Bicubic(default, and best result with smoothest gradation.)Bilinear(medium quality) Nearest Neighbor(Fastest, but jagged) Don’t use the other options. iii. To maintain the current width/height ratio, check on the constrain proportions box. iv. Click OK when you are done. Proper File Sizes for Printing, Web 1. Printing Sizesa. Smaller Images (4x6 in -5x7 in)- If possible, print at 300 dpi. If your file size is small, you can get away with printing at 180 dpi and still get a fine print. b. Larger Images (8x10 in and up) – For the smaller large images, you can get away with printing at 240 dpi, but should try to print at 300 dpi if possible. Printing higher than 300 dpi will not give you a better result. 2. Web Imagesa. When posting images on the web, your dpi really doesn’t need to be any higher than 72 dpi. This will do two things: prevent people from stealing your images for reproduction, and also will let your website load much faster. The image also doesn’t need to be much bigger than 500 pixels per side. Unsharp Mask 1. Go to ENHANCE, Unsharp Mask. 2. Unsharp mask will actually sharpen the edges of your image. The computer increases the contrast between the edges. 3. A new window will open. a. Zoom in to 100%. b. The amount is the adjustment you will change the most. Try to keep it right around 100, but if the image needs it, you can go up to around 150. Sharpening any image will help it appear more crisp when printed. c. Keep the Radius at either .9 or 1.0. d. Keep the Threshold right around 5. 4. You should look closely at your image, and determine the proper amount. Be careful not to go too high here, as your image will appear over sharpened and pixilated. This is particularly important to remember when adjusting images of people, especially around the hair line, and glasses. Processing Multiple Files at Once 1. Make sure you are in the Full Edit Window. 2. Go to FILE—Process Multiple Files 3. Under SOURCE, browse and select the Folder that you would like to draw the images from. 4. Under DESTINATION, pick where you would like the files to go. You may create a new folder. 5. If you would like to rename the files do so in the next step. It is a good idea to make compatible for both. 6. If you would like to resize the image, do so in the next step. Be aware of whether you are working in pixels or inches! 7. In the last step, you have the choice to covert your files. This is where you would switch a RAW file to a jpg or a tiff. 8. Finally, hit ok and PSE will process your files. 12