Transcript
Lanier R/C
CAP 232
ALMOST - READY - T O - FLY (ARF)
Instruction Manual
IMAA & IMAC Legal Overall fuselage length: 79-1/8” Required Engine Size: 1.50 to 3.2 2-stroke 1.60 to 3.0 4-stroke Fuselage Length: 59-3/8” Flying Weight: 12 to 17 lbs. Wingspan: 80” Wing Area 1265 sq. in. Radio: 4-channel with 5 Standard Servos
Lanier R/C, inc.
P.O. Box 458 Oakwood, GA
30566 Phone 770-532-6401
Fax 770-532-2163
Lanier R/C
PARTS LIST: 1 LEFT WING PANEL 14 ENGINE BOX BOTTOM 2 RIGHT WING PANEL 15 TRI-STOCK REINFORCEMENT 3 LEFT AILERON 16 HARDWARE PACKS: 4 RIGHT AILERON WING HARDWARE 5 FIBERGLASS COWL TAIL HARDWARE 6 ALUMINUM TUBE WING SPAR CANOPY HARDWARE 7 FIBERGLASS WHEEL PANTS COWL HARDWARE 8 ALUMINUM FORMED LANDING GEAR LANDING GEAR HARDWARE 9 RUDDER WHEELS PANTS HARDWARE 10 HORIZONTAL STAB ENGINE HARDWARE 11 LEFT HAND ELEVATOR MISC. HARDWARE 12 RIGHT HAND ELEVATOR 17 CANOPY BASE 13 PLYWOOD FIREWALL
2
Lanier R/C
Thank you for purchasing our Cap 232 ARF. Before you begin, please read through this manual and familiarize yourself with what you have to do. Check all the parts. If you find any defective or missing, please contact your local dealer. W a r n i n g : This model is not a toy. It is designed for maximum performance. Please seek advice if you are not familiar with this kind of model. Operating this model without prior preparation may cause injuries. Safety is the most important thing to remember.
3. Install a #6 flat washer on a #6 –32 x 1-3/4” Pan Hd. Screw. Insert the screw into to hole on the topside of the aileron. 4. Slip a flat washer, lock washer and #6 hex nut on the extended end of the bolt and tighten. Thread on a nylon horn bracket as shown in the photo.
WING ASSEMBLY
5. Locate the 8 hinge points. Using one, push it into each hole, on the wing and aileron, with a twisting motion until the center of the pivot point is aligned with the edge of the hole. Put a drop of oil on the pivot point of each hinge and blot the excess with a paper towel. Apply glue in the hole and some near the end of the hinge point. We recommend Pacer Hinge Glue or 30-min. epoxy. Do the aileron first, align the hinges, allow the glue to cure and then mount it to the wing. Make sure it is aligned properly.
Wing Hardware 1. Locate the two ailerons and the hard points in them For mounting the control horns. Hold the aileron up to the wing and they should be behind the servo mount in the wing. 2. Drill out the hole in each with a # 28 drill bit. (9/64”)
3
Lanier R/C
6. Prepare the servo to be mounted in the servo well on the wing. Locate the threaded pushrods and thread a hex nut on each each of each. Now install a clevis on each end. Mount the servo with four #2 x ½” sheet metal screws (not supplied) and the proper output arm. Adjust the clevises to fit with the aileron centered and the servo at neutral. Now tighten the hex nuts against the clevis. Install the safety clips to ensure security
them for the control horns. They are located very close to the leading edge of the surfaces. Drill out each hole with a #28 drill bit (9/64”) in the elevator hard points. Install a #6 flat washer on a #6-32 x 2-1/2” Pan Hd. Machine Screw. Insert the screw into hole on topside of surface. Slip a flat washer, lock washer and #6 hex nut, on the extended end of the screw and tighten. Thread on a nylon horn bracket. Proper adjustment can be made later. Repeat the above process when installing the 3” threaded rod in the rudder.
7. Remove the servo from the well but do not disturb the linkage hookup. Push a thin stick through the servo connector channel, at the wing root, until it can be seen in the servo well. Tape on a length of string and pull it through the channel.. Connect a 12” lead extension (not supplied) to the servo lead and tape the connectors together. Tie the string to the end connector and pull through the channel. Now remount the servo. This completes the wing assembly TAIL ASSEMBLY
2. Locate the 10 hinge points. Using one, push it into each hole, in the rudder and elevator, with a twisting motion until the center of the pivot point is aligned with the edge of the hole. Put a drop of oil on the pivot point of each hinge and blot the excess with a paper towel. Apply glue in the hole and some near the end of the hinge point. We recommend Pacer Hinge Glue or a good 30-min. Epoxy. Mount the hinges in the control surfaces only. Set them aside until the stab is mounted to the fuselage.
Tail Hardware 1. Locate the rudder and elevators and the hard points in
4
Lanier R/C
5. Mark the fuselage outline with a felt tip pen while stab is bolted in place.
3. Locate the Stab hold down bolt and remove it. At this time you should determine whether you want to keep it removable or glue in on permanently. We recommend you glue it on permanently using the added holding power of the bolt to retain it.
6. Offset the marked lines, inward 3/8”, and remove the covering between them with a sharp X-acto knife. Apply 5 min. epoxy on the bare area and some on the fuselage saddle. Remount the Stab, bolt in place. Wipe off excess epoxy at joint with a paper towel and Isopropyl Alcohol.
4. Remove covering from bolt hole in top of fairing and bolt stab in place with proper alignment. Now assemble the rudder and elevators to the fin and stab as described in step 5 of wing assembly. 7. Locate the Tail wheel hardware. Place a wheel collar on the axle, then the wheel and finally another wheel collar. Note: it may be necessary to drill the wheel hub with a 3/32’ d r i l l b i t . Center the wheel on the axle and tighten the wheel collars. Lubricate the wheel so that it will rotate easily on the axle.
5
Lanier R/C
#2 x ½” sheet metal screws (not supplied) Locate the short pushrods for the elevators and cut 3/8” off both ends of each one. A Dremel cut-off wheel works fine here. Mount a #4 hex nut on the end of each pushrod. Now mount a 4-40 clevis on the ends of each..
8. Mount the tail wheel using 3-#4 x ½” sheet metal screws. Use the first three holes in the mount.
12. Center the servo and elevator. Tape the elevator at the tip so that it will not move. Adjust the clevises on the pushrod to fit and hookup to servo arm and control horn. Slip on the safety clips and tighten the hex nuts against the clevis. 13. The rudder pushrod is the proper length. Assemble in the same manner as described above. Note: We recommend you use two servos on the rudder, the two pushrods will act as a pullpull- pull setup providing providing maximum force with no flexing of the pushrods..
9. Mount the tail wheel on the center of the fuselage flush with the back edge. Hold in place and drill three 1/16” holes through three holes in the mount. Drive in the screws and tighten them.
14. When using two servos on the elevators, it is necessary to use a “Y” connector with a servo reverser in one of the “Y’s” thereby allowing both servos to be mounted in the same position. Maxx Products International (see notes) has one with an internal pot so adjustment can be made electrically to one elevator. Their “Y” connector, called the Miracle “Y” Connector, has extra long leads. Of course with an expensive computer radio you can always connect the elevators in two different channels thereby eliminating the need for the Miracle “Y” Connector. However, you will need servo lead extensions. The rudder with two servos will then need a plain “Y” connector and a servo lead extension.
10. Locate the spring and cut off excess wire, 1-1/4” from spring, on the long end. Now bend a ¼”leg at 90 degree on that end. Place the opposite end in the small hole on the brass fitting at top of bearing shaft. Note where ¼” leg ends on bottom of rudder. Mark and drill a 1/16” hole. Note: make sure the wheel is properly aligned before drill- ing the hole. Harden the hole with thin CA. Insert the ¼” leg in the hole, insert a #4 x ½” sheet metal screw in the same hole and tighten. Do not over tighten and strip the threads. Use a drop of thin CA to secure the screw.
MOUNTING THE LANDING GEAR
11. Prepare the servos with the proper servo arm for the rudder and elevators. Mount them in the servo wells with
6
Lanier R/C
4. Mount the wheel axles on the landing gear struts. Tighten the lock nuts securely.
Landing Gear Hardware
1. Measure back 2-1/2” from the front former. Using a square, draw a line across the fuselage with a felt tip pen. Place the forward edge of the landing gear against the line and center it on the fuselage. Tape the landing gear in place. Now match drill the mounting holes into the fuselage using a ¼” drill bit.
5. Mount the landing gear, aligning the holes, and install a ¼” x 1” cap screw with washer in the center hole.. Do not tighten.. Install the other two cap screws, a flat washer on each side, with a lock nut on each inside. Now tighten all the screws.
2. Now drill out the center hole with a 5/16” drill bit. Install the 1/4” T-nut on the inside applying thick CA around the edge to hold it in place. 3. Before mounting the landing gear to the fuselage it will be necessary to drill two holes in the landing gear struts. Drill a hole ½” up, on the centerline of the 5/16” hole in the strut.
7
Lanier R/C
6 Locate the two wheel pants. Clean out the epoxy from the ½” hole with a burring tool so that you have a nice round ½” hole. Slide a pant over the axle, thru the ½” hole, against the landing gear strut. The hex on the axle nut should be in the ½’ hole on the pant and flat against the landing gear. Align the pant so the bottom surface is parallel with the bottom of the landing gear strut. Hold in place and mark the location of the 5/32” hole on the landing gear strut, to the wheel pant.
8. Mount the wheel pant to the landing gear. First slip a 5/32 wheel collar on the axle. Start the axle thru the ½” hole in the pant, slip the wheel thru the opening and on the axle, then another wheel collar. Tighten the wheel collar slightly so that everything will stay in place. Locate the #6-32 x ½ bolt and a lock washer and secure the pant to the landing gear. Align the wheel in the center of the pant opening and tighten the wheel collars securely. MOUNTING THE ENGINE
7. Drill the hole location on the wheel pant with a 3/16” drill bit. Locate the Pant Hardware. Now install a 6-32 T-nut on the inside of the wheel pant. Use thick CA around the edges to hold it in place. Now do the other pant.
Mounting the engine is a little more involved. We have shown the Fox 2..4 cu/in. engine installed with a Bisson muffler. If you have a different choice of engine, it will undoubtedly require different mounting requirements.. What we have shown will give you a good idea how to proceed. All mounting hardware for engine is not supplied. 1. Set the cowl on a flat surface facing up. Measure the distance from the surface to end of the cowl. Measure with a tape thru the crankshaft hole in the cowl. Should be close to 12”. Now measure the engine from the mounting surface to the propeller back plate.. The Fox engine is 5-1/4”. Cut off the engine box side at 6-1/2”. Add the ½” engine shim and that = 7”. 7 plus 5-1/4” = 12-1/4”. The lite-ply shim is not quite ½” so you end up with approx 3/16” spinner clearance with the cowl
8
Lanier R/C
6. Enlarge the four ¼” holes with a 5/16” drill bit. Install four, 10-32 T-nuts. 7. Apply thick CA to the edges of the T-nuts to hold them in place. Install ½” tri-stock balsa pieces to reinforce the firewall. Also add to short pieces in the corner at the former and sides as shown.
2. Now that we have done the math, measure out 6-1/2”on each engine box side. Using a square from the top edge draw a line on the mark with a felt tip pen. Do both sides. Trim excess off to the line using a razor saw. Now measure up from the lower front edge 7/8”. Measure back 4=1/4” drawing a line between the two points and trim off.
8. Glue on the motor shim with thick CA. Be sure to align the holes with the T-nuts. Epoxy on the 1/8” lite-ply bottom. Score at the bend point and crack, do not beak in two, so that it will fit in one piece. Use 5-min epoxy. Mount the engine with 4, 10-32 x 1-1/4” socket head bolts and split lock washers (not supplied). Side thrust can be added by shimming one side of the engine.
3. Install the 1/4” firewall between the sides and flush with the ends using 5-min epoxy. Pin it to the sides, 3 places, on each side with 1/16” dia toothpick or nail brad. 4. Construct a center point on the firewall 2-1/8” down from the top and 2-3/4” in from the left side facing it. Extend the lines to edges of the firewall. 5. Laminate two ¼” engine shims (not supplied) together with thick CA. Tack glue to firewall aligning the centerlines. Match drill the four holes in the engine shim with a ¼” drill bit. Now remove the shim.
9
Lanier R/C
MOUNTING THE COWL Although the cowl comes painted, it needs more work on it before it is ready to install. 1. Mount the cowl on the fuselage and tape it in place with masking tape. Drill out the four retaining holes with a #28 drill bit. Remove the cowl from the fuselage. Now drill out the holes in the retaining lug with a 3/16” drill bit.
3. Cut out an opening in the bottom of the cowl for the engine head and muffler. Make sure the opening is large enough for proper cooling. Use a Dremel Tool with a sanding drum for best results. Began the cut out small and enlarge it by steps so you can see your way through it. Other engines will require a different cut out configuration.
2. Locate the Cowl Hardware and find the four 6-32 T – Nuts. Install one in each of the holes in the mounting lugs. Apply thick CA to the edges of the T-nuts to hold them in place.
4. In order to install or remove the cowl, we cut the exhaust pipes off short enough to clear the cowl ring at the back edge of the cowl., when it passes by them. Once the cowl is installed, a 3” piece of silicon tubing, ½” ID, is mounted on each pipe. An automotive clamp is installed on each to hold them in place.. In order to remove the cowl it will be necessary to remove the exhaust extensions. This will provide a positive way of installing the cowl with the least amount of work on the cowl.
10
Lanier R/C
4 If you intend to install a pilot and instrument panel now is the time to do it. Paint the visible surface on the canopy base flat black, then install the pilot and instrument panel.. (not included).
MOUNTING THE CANOPY 1. Locate the canopy and trim off the extra material below the mold line. The mold line is the faint line you see defining the canopy when trimmed. Lay the canopy over the base to check the fit. It doesn’t quite fit, does it? Tape the canopy in place and mark the places that need to be trimmed. Remove it and trim again. It should overlap the side by ½” and the flange on the front should lap by ½”. The back should be flush with the back former.
5. Mount the canopy base on the fuselage using the screws to hold it in place. Using a tack rag, clean the canopy thoroughly to remove the dust. Inside and outside. Place the canopy on the base and align.. Tack glue it around the edges several places. Especially around the rear former.
2. Once you have the canopy fitting just right, and you are tired of trimming, or you are frustrated and don’t care anymore, set it aside. 3 Locate the canopy hardware bag. Mount the canopy base on the fuselage. Make sure it positioned up against the forward former and tape down to hold. Locate the hold down holes near the back edge of the canopy and down ½” from the mounting edge on the fuselage. Drill out the holes, on both sides, with a #28 drill. Now remove the canopy and drill out the holes in the hold down flange with a 3/16” drill. Install a #6 T-nut on the inside of each flange. Apply thick CA around the edges of the T-nut to hold them in place.
6. When cured remove it from the fuselage. Now glue it all around the edges. We recommend Pacer Technology canopy glue. Tape with masking tape to hold it in place. When cured remove the masking tape and apply trim tape of matching color around the front and sides.
11
Lanier R/C
3. Glue the mount to the side of the engine box using thick CA or epoxy. Locate it 1-3/8” down from the top edge of the engine box side and 3-3/8” from the inside of the firewall to the front edge of the mount.
MOUNTING THE THROTTLE SERVO 1. First it will be necessary to construct a very simple servo mount. Locate the laser cut pieces and the two 5/16” x 5/16” x 7/8” wood beams. Lay down a small piece of wax paper on a flat surface. Mix up some 5-min epoxy. Glue the beams into the notches making sure they are square. Now glue in a gusset under each beam.
4. Drill a ¼” hole in the firewall 1-3/8” down from the top edge adjacent to the engine shim. Prepare the 6” threaded throttle pushrod. Mount a 2-56 hex nut and clevis on each end. Adjust the clevis so that they will fit between the throttle bellcrank and the servo arm. Tighten the nuts and install the clevis keepers. Make necessary adjustments when first running the engine.
2. Install the servo in the servo mount with four #2 x ½” sheet metal screws. (not supplied). Orient it so the lead is facing toward the back of the fuselage when mounted in location.
MOUNTING THE FUEL TANK Before mounting the fuel tank it will be necessary to assemble it. The stopper in the tank is required for gas. It can be used for glow fuel but the pickup line will have to be changed to silicone in case you decide to use a glow engine.
12
Lanier R/C
3. Locate the tank mount and the two tie straps. Thread the ties through the holes as shown and center them. Mix up some 5-min. epoxy and glue the mount to the engine box sides and wing tube housing. Center the mount over the tube housing keeping it parallel with the top edge of the fuselage. Allow epoxy to cure.
Fuel Tank Parts
1. Push the tube through the stopper. It is a tight fit and you will have to force it. Parts are painted black to see it better. Parts have been painted black for photo purposes.
4. Place a piece of ¼” foam, (not supplied) the size of the tank, (not supplied) on the tank mount. Now pull the tie straps tight. Check to see that tank is securely in place. Mounting the Wings 1. Remove the covering from the holes in the side of the fuselage. Use a sharp X-acto knife. Remove possible glue build-up in wing spar tube so aluminum spar can be inserted. Carefully use a Dremel Motor with sanding drum. If tube does not slide through the fuselage, do to tolerances, sand the inside of the tube in the fuselage with a large dowel with 220 paper glued to it until it does.
2. Make up a stopper assembly. Carefully bend the vent tube as shown. The Du-Bro Tube Bender does a great job of bending with no kinking. When bent and positioned properly it should extend into the bubble in the top of the tank. Cut the pickup line to proper length when installed so the clunk will move freely when tank is turned up-side-down. Tie the pickup line to the stopper assembly with the wire tie wrap. An extra third line should be installed for filling the tank.
13
Lanier R/C
¼” drill bit to recess the screw head flush with the wing surface.
2. Slide the aluminum wing spar into the fuselage centering it. Now slide on a wing panel pushing it up against the fuselage. Grab the tube on the opposite side and push, with a twisting motion, inward to make sure it is bottomed keeping the wing panel against the fuselage. Note: The aluminum anti rotation pins, on the wing may not let the wing seat properly. If holes are not aligned, remove wood, only if necessary, from front or back edge of hole in fuselage. Do not remove from top or bottom edge. Check and make sure the pins are glued securely in place.
4. Now do the other side. Note: When removing the wing, remove the screw from one side only and leave the spar fastened in one wing panel. If both screws are removed, it will be extremely hard to find the hales in the spar again when trying to insert the locking screws. Do not make this mistake. A small piece of transparent tape over each screw will hold them in place. Balancing the Cap 232 One of the most important things to do before flying your Cap is to check the CG (center of gravity). The Cap should balance 1” ahead of the wing spar with the nose tipped down at a 10 degree angle. To accomplish this it may be necessary to move the batteries forward or aft. If that don’t do it, then you must add weight. But only as a last resort. Of course, a lot depends on how big and heavy an engine you install. Control Surface Travel In order to do the 3D maneuvers it will require a big engine and lots of control travel. Before you program your radio for those wild maneuvers, we recommend you set the control travel as recommended for the first trim flights. Then as you become more familiar with the Cap’s flight characteristics you can change the travel to your style of flying..
3. Locate the wing retainer hard point on the top of the wing. It is located on the centerline of the spar, 10” out from the wing root. Using a #36 drill bit, drill through the hard point and one side of the aluminum spar. Now tap the hole and the aluminum spar with a 6-32 tap. Counterbore the hole with a
Elevator travel plus 1’” minus 1 Aileron travel plus 3/4”, minus 3/4” Rudder travel, all you can get
14
Lanier R/C
gun will take them out when used with care. Your Cap 232 is covered with UltraCote, the finest film covering available today! Installing the Radio
When using two servos on the elevator, a “Y” harness with a servo reverser is required in order to keep both servos in the same hookup configuration. This and other related products (servo lead extensions, switch harness with charging port) can be purchased from Maxx Products, 815 Oakwood Rd., Unit D, Lake Zurich, IL, 60047. They have many useful R/C products. Ask for their catalog.
Use radio packing foam (not included), available at your local hobby dealer) when you install the receiver and battery. The batteries and receiver can be held in place with Velcro or rubber bands. Route the receiver antenna back through the fuselage using an antenna tube (not included) or route it outside back to the vertical stab. If using an antenna tube, lightly tape the receiver antenna to the outside of the tube (or route inside the tube) and route antenna tube inside the a f t section of the fuselage.
We hope you enjoy flying your Cap 232. We have tried very hard to ensure the best quality possible. All of the hardware included in the kit is American made. Our Cap is structurally sound and will take any maneuver you can do, except straight into the ground. Happy Fly ‘in!
PRE-FLIGHT NOTES Before the first flight, and to ensure some longevity in your Cap 232, you will do well to check out a few things before heading to the flying field. 1. As a reminder, balance the Cap with the fuel tank empty. Depending on your type of flying you may want to adjust it forward or aft. 2. Check the control surface travels again.. We have given you a starting point however; they may need to be fine tuned to meet your flying needs. 3. Run the engine and check the idle. Have it ready so you don't encounter any problems at the field. 4. Turn on the radio with the engine running to make sure there are no intermittent glitches. Give it a good range check.
HARDWARE FOR ARF CAP232 WING (10) Robart Super Hinge (2) #6 x 1-3/4” Pan Hd Mach Screw Control horns) (4) #6 flat washer (2) #6 lock washer (2) #6 hex nut (2) #4-40 x 4” threaded rod Pushrod) Sullivan (4) #4-40 clevis Sullivan) (2) #4-40 hex nut (2) #6 horn bracket
5. Check all hardware to be sure it is secure. There is nothing worse than losing an airplane on the first flight because of a loose nut or clevis. Notes: A word about wrinkled covering. Because the airplane, when shipped, has been put through many environmental conditions, the covering will tend to wrinkle in places. A heat
15
Lanier R/C
(2) #6 – 32 x 1” Soc Hd. Cap screw (to hold wings on spar)
(2) 14” plastic tie strap (1) firewall 4-1/8” x 4-13/16” birch ply (2) engine box bottom 5-5/16” x 6-1/2” lite ply (laser cut part) (1) servo mount (laser cut part) (1) ½” balsa tri-stock x 30”
Tail (10) Robart Super Hinge (2) #6 x 2-1/2” pan hd. Mach. Screw control horn) (elev.) (1) #6 x 3” threaded rod full thread control horn) (rudder) (6) #6 flat washer (4) #6 lock washer (4) #6 hex nut (4) #6 horn bracket (2) #4-40 x 4” threaded rod (elev.) (2) #4-40 x 10” threaded rod (rudder) (8) #4-40 clevis (8) #4 hex nut (1) Sullivan tail Wheel 10 –22 lbs - 1-1/4 “ wheel (2) 3/32” wheel collar (4) #4 rd. head sheet metal screw
WHEEL PANTS (2) #6-32 x ½ Soc Hd. Bolt (2) #6-32 blind nut (2) #6 split lock washer
CANOPY (2) #6 X ¾” Soc. Hd. Bolt (2) #6 blind nut (2) #6 flat washer (2) #6 lock washer COWL (4) #6 x ¾” soc hd. Bolt (4) #6 blind nut LANDING GEAR (2) ¼-20 x 1” soc. hd. cap screw (5) ¼” flat washer (1) ¼” split lock washer ( 2) ¼-20 lock nut (1) ¼-20 T-nut (4) 3/16 wheel collar (2) 3-1/2” wheel (2) 3/16 X 2” wheel axle MISC (1) 24 oz fuel tank gas only (glow fuel stopper and tube not supplied) (1) fuel tank platform (laser cut part) ¼” lite-ply
16
