Assignment #1 Cut/paper Stencils

Transcript

Screen Printing Tobin Keller Assignment #1 Cut/PAPER STENCILS geometric & Organic abstraction PAPER PRINT. This first print is meant as an ice-breaker in the technique of screen printing. This is not an image based print but an abstraction. Work with a variety of geometric and/or torn paper shapes. Think creatively, intuitively, experimentally and abstractly. Do not be afraid to make mistakes, take a few risks, but don’t let the ink dry in your screen! *You will be attempting a variety of 8 prints (using a minimum of 2 sheets of Rives BFK paper) but you may want to attempt more, especially if your idea is sound and you find printing easy. This is not an editioned print but rather can be 8 different prints. One of the simplest stencils is the knife-cut and torn paper stencil. It is often used for quick, short runs, it is easy to cut or tear, and comes off immediately after printing. Print quality is sharp and clear, often described as “graphic” but torn paper edges are also often used. The image must not be too intricate and large flats can be a problem if the paper is not attached properly. Some cut stencils cannot be saved but mylar stencils are reusable. MATERALS NEEDED: Master design (note demo. but not necessary for this print) Schematic of color separations (see example at the end of this handout) Choice of: Freezer Wrap (flattened out) Contact paper Possibly Denril (Mylar .003) Tracing paper X-acto knife with sharp #16 or #11 blades Pencil and eraser Scotch Magic tape Light table or window for tracing Masking tape Possibly Post-It Tape Rives BFK Plenty of proofing paper Folder to hold stencils flat Possibly Avery-type labels in various sizes, plastic doilies, thin strong flat things which would act as stencils STENCILs you will need: You will be making a minimum of 4 stencils and 4 colors: A flat, and three separate shapes. • A Flat: The Flat is a large open area. It is the background color for the print. Choose one of the following: Contact paper, freezer wrap or tracing paper. Note demo. for proper cutting and placement of flat on screen. • Shape #1: Cut-out a second piece of paper to create your first shape again from one of the choices above. • Shape #2: Repeat above for your second shape. • Shape #3 : Final shape. Consider a piece of torn paper to add interest or variety. It’s okay if your design con- cept does not work with a torn stencil. MAKING STENCILS: 1. For your first print make a master drawing. Your master drawing can also be considered as a map for your idea. This map can change during the printing process. Your master drawing needs to be sized on a piece of paper that is the same size as your printing paper - 11 1/4 inches by 15 inches. This is where good registration begins. Keep your master drawing clear and easy to trace. The master is also helpful for making a color schematic. Make a thumbnail schematic showing how you will separate your master drawing into a stencil for each color. (An example of this follows at the end of these directions.) • FREEZER WRAP: Pull pieces off the roll and flatten them ahead of time. On a light table or window, trace color #1 from the back of your master drawing onto the dull side of the freezer wrap. (The glossy side will face the back of your screen when you attach it.) You may want to trace your master drawing on its own backside to make the tracing process easier. NOTE: Registration continues! Use a thin pencil and make a firm line so that you will know which line to cut. • DENRIL OR MYLAR: Place the sheet over your master drawing and just trace color #1. Keep the tracing line firm and clear. NOTE: Since mylar and denril have the same surface on both sides, you do not need a light table and you may re-use this stencil over and over. • CONTACT PAPER: Use a light colored or clear contact paper so that you can see your lines. Trace on the plastic side, to the BACK of the master drawing. You will be cutting on the plastic side, then it is turned around and adhered with its sticky backside. This stencil, once it’s stuck to the screen and burnished can often withstand several printings and washouts so it can be used to print other colors. • TRACING PAPER: Follow the direction as in B., but you cannot re-use this stencil. Some people think this is the best paper stencil. 2. Repeat the processes in 3A, 3B, 3C and/or 3D until you have all your stencils traced. NOTE: You may also wait to cut your stencils as you go. This will help with better registration as well. 3. Using an X-acto knife with a very sharp #16 or #11 blade, carefully cut out #1 color stencil. Do not over cut your corners or ink will bleed through there.You can keep the negative pieces with the stencil until the stencil into a flat folder to keep it from getting wrinkled or smashed. Contact paper cut outs are re moved right away. Some other stencils are torn and some are found (see #8 below). 4. You can continue to cut out all your stencils, carefully storing them in a cardboard folder, OR cut #1, print it and check for adjustments before cutting stencil #2. 5. Label your stencils #1, #2, #3, etc. right away to avoid confusion later. Make sure you know what side is the front! 6. Other stencils to try are pre-cut machine labels such as Avery, hole reinforcers, rice papers, anything with a sticky back as long as it is THIN. This stencil may be combined with crayon or screen filler. TO PRINT: Please read through your handout on Printing and refer to your check list. Be sure you are organized and ready to print. Once you start, if the ink dries and you have to wash it out, you may loose your stencil. For a large rectangular flat area, rather than making one large hole, make 4 strips of freezer wrap (or tracing paper), one for each side with each strip taped independently of the others. Or use contact paper, screen filler or photo stencil. 1. Tear printing paper, including proofing paper and get generally organized to print. 2. Tape stencil #1 to the back of the screen. Freezer wrap is plastic side up, attached to the underside of the screen facing you (right-reading). Fill in any open areas of the screen with freezer wrap or contact paper. Denril or mylar is front of stencil to back of screen, facing you, right reading. Contact paper is sticky side to the back of the screen. Go SLOWLY when adhering contact paper to the screen. 3. ISLANDS: Islands are small stencils which float in a printing area. They are not attached to anything so they may drift from the pressure of the squeegee while you are printing. You will need to cut a small hole in the island and affix it to the screen with an Avery label or other sticky material. For a very small intricate island cut the shape directly from an Avery label or contact paper. 4. You may want to dry register the first run. Move the master drawing around under the stenciled screen until stencil #1 matches perfectly with your master color #1. Flip guide to double check. You will have to flip guide your other colors. 5. By placing the paper stencil with the cut out areas still in place onto the screen and the pulling an impression you adhere the stencil to the screen, You then remove the cut out areas of the design you want to print. OR your can take out the cut out pieces before you adhere your stencil–experiment to see what works best for you. Contact paper cut outs are removed at cutting. 6. After printing #1, remove the stencil, wash screen, dry it, and continue printing. You can save Denril and mylar but not freezer wrap or tracing paper. example of master drawing and schematic: Master drawing paper dimensions = 15” x 11 1/4” Shape #1 cut from opaque paper - varigated color Flat/background, may vary in size - red orange paper dimensions = 15” x 11 1/4” Shape #2 cut from opaque paper - grey varigated color The following is a description of this process from Water Based Inks, A Screenprinting Manual for Studio and Classroom by Lois M. Johnson and Hester Stinnett. HANDCUT STENCIL Handcut stencil print by Cabrillo student Barbara Gibson. Notice the clean cut “graphic” edges. “No sooner is the Word Spoken” by J.I Biegeleison. Two grays and red are from handcut paper stencils; black was from a handcut film stencil. To print flat areas of color with a sharp or an uneven torn edge, a handcut paper is used for quick, disposable stencils. Freezer wrap, a white paper coated on one side with plastic, can be used. The plastic coating renders the paper moisture proof, and will withstand the friction of printing. After printing is completed, the stencil is thrown away and the ink washed out of the screen. Stencil cuts should be made on the shiney, coated side of the paper. The translucent freezer wrap can be placed over a drawing, then cut out, removing the part where the printed image is desired. Other handcut stencil materials are clear contact paper, mylar or Denril. The mylar and Denril (.003 mil. plastic sheetings) are unaffected by the humidity of the inks, will not stretch during printing and can be washed off and reused. Acetate, however, is not recommended as it will stretch when it comes in contact with the ink, causing printing problems. Clear contact paper is cabable of more detailed images due to its adhesive backing. With good adhesion of the contact paper to the screen mesh, this stencil will withstand printing friction and ink washout, remaining ready for reuse. General steps to follow when preparing any of the materials are: cut with sharp mat knives, stencil cutters or single edged razor blades on a stable surface. Use of a light table or a window is helpful for working with a drawing or proof. No image reversal is needed when using freezer wrap paper, mylar or Denil. Do not overcut the corners: cut exactly to the corners and stop. Extension beyond the corners will cause the ink to leak out while printing. For block out of all non printing areas, cut the block out material at least 1 inch larger in length and width than the opening of the mesh surface, and attach it to the underside of the screen. When cutting the contact paper, keep in mind that the adhesive side must attach to the underside of the screen–therefore, either reverse the contact paper and cut through the backing and adhesive simultaneously, or reverse the drawing to the contact paper before cutting the stencil. Burnish the contact paper firmly onto the screen mesh, pressing out air bubbles. Paper or plastic stencils are attached to the screen frame, not the mesh, with good quality masking tape which prevents the moisture in the inks from releasing the tape. Surface tension of the stencil must be even, with no pulling or stretching for clean prints. When printing the paper or plastic stencil, begin with one very firm stroke of the squeegee and ink will adhere the stencil to the screen. The ink also acts as an adhesive for small floating shapes added during the printing process.