Transcript
Passion : Excellence : Quality
BSA
RAISING
raising BEVERAGE STANDARDS beverage standards Filter Coffee
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BSA
raising beverage standards
Passion : Excellence : Quality
Passion : Excellence : Quality
BSA
BSA
raising beverage standards
Contents
A Glimpse into the Dark Rich History of Filter Coffee
3-7 4-7 5-76-7
7
Introduction
Coffee Packaging Technology Developments
Brewing Methods
Developments in Brewing Coffee brewing systems
8-7 9 10
Ethically Traded Coffee Serving and Storing Coffee The One Cup Filter
EDITOR (FOR BSA): James Devlin PUBLISHING DIRECTOR: Martyn Herriott
[email protected] REDESIGN: Gail Blackman – Krunch Design,
[email protected] ORIGINAL DESIGN: Stuart Hubbard - Concept Creatives,
[email protected] PRINTED BY: Nova Press, Thatcham Raising Beverage Standards “Filter Coffee” was published by the Beverage Standards Association T. 01364 645761 All articles are copyright and remain the property of the BSA. Originally published: May 2011 and revised and reprinted February 2013 (2nd edition).
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Welcome to Raising Beverage Standards, a new regular Beverage Standards Association (BSA) publication. Alongside the many initiatives the BSA is trying to achieve this publication is an integral part of our key aim to raise training and education standards within the Industry. We are delighted that this edition has been revised and updated as required This focus for this issue is filter coffee. There have been many developments in recent years including advances in equipment, packaging and the range of coffees available. We hope that this issue goes some way to informing you of these developments and help create a new or further interest into all things filter coffee. As coffee and other associated areas of the beverage commodity market continue to see substantial increases in prices, it is important that we all strive to ensure that both the product and standards remain paramount. To assist in developing and maintaining these standards, the BSA offers the City and Guilds VRQ in barista skills. This training, through approved centres of excellence, provides attendees on the course a comprehensive knowledge in producing all types of beverages. At the end of the course, a practical and theory exam ensures that the candidates have the required knowledge before receiving a City and Guilds VRQ certificate. At this time, the Beverage Standards Association has twelve approved training centres throughout the UK. Please visit our web site for full details on these locations and how you and your staff would benefit from attending one of these courses. Building upon the success of the City and Guilds skills, the BSA runs the Beverage Standards Awards. The Awards are designed to communicate a valuable and fair assessment of any establishment serving hot beverages and we look forward to running another successful event in 2013. This dual approach offers those entering the awards an objective, expert assessment of drinks quality whilst also taking into consideration, service standards and the environment in which they are being served. The BSA hopes you enjoy this edition of Raising Beverage Standards. Martyn Herriott, Executive Director, BSA and owner of Complete Beverage Solutions Ltd
For further information, www.beveragestandardsassociation.co.uk or call the BSA office on 01364 645761 or email
[email protected]
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A GLIMPSE INTO THE DARK RICH HISTORY OF FILTER COFFEE Rich, dark and satisfying, coffee has been the drink of
Although the early English coffee houses were a great
choice across many cultures across the world for
success, they didn’t serve alcohol and some believe this
hundreds of years. Playing a key role in many societies
restricted their popularity with the general public making
because of its perceived energising effects and value as a
them a desirable and often sophisticated venue
key trade commodity, coffee has grown to become one of
frequented by the social elite of the time.
the most popular drinks across the globe. In 2011, roast and ground coffee made up approximately 24% of the
Today coffee is enjoyed by everyone. The pioneers of UK
UK coffee market, equivalent to a market segment value
coffee houses in the 17th century couldn’t have predicted
of £210 million (Mintel 2011). In the early 1980s this figure
that such a high proportion of households would own a
was estimated at approximately 12%, with the market
coffee machine and supermarkets would boast extensive
dominated by instant coffee.
varieties of beans and filtered blends.
Coffee is believed to have its humble origins in north-
Since the latter part of the 20th century, filter coffee has
eastern Ethiopia and then it spread across the Arab lands
been over shadowed by the fashionable image of
with the earliest recorded evidence found in the mid-15th
espresso coffee and impressive espresso coffee
century in the Sufi monasteries. (Weinberg & Bealer, 2001).
machines, which provides an air of the theatrical over the
It is from here that coffee spread into Italy and then into
calm simplicity of previous filter systems.
the rest of Europe, Indonesia and eventually the Americas. (Meyers, Hannah, 2005).
Trends change and the simplicity and authentic nature of filter coffee is coming back, increasing in popularity
Coffee in the UK was still considered a minority drink until
across the European continent (Synergy & Bravilor
the middle of the last century, but according to Samuel
Bonamat 2010).
Pepys, the 17th century diarist, the earliest coffee shop – the Grand Café - was set up in Oxford in 1650 (Cowan,
Brewing methods
Brian 2006) and by the year 1675, there were over 3,000
Preparing coffee has evolved dramatically over the
coffee houses in England. (Nestlé Professional 2010).
centuries. The earliest brewing methods involved grinding coffee beans, adding them to water and bringing the mixture to the boil for an instant. This process would produce an infusion with sediment which would settle to the bottom (All About Coffee, William Harrison, 1922). The Turkish method produced a strong coffee and the sediment was unpleasant and could be bitter, but this wasn’t to the taste of Europeans, who desired a more refined coffee experience. At the beginning of the 18th century, the first infusion method appeared in France. The ground coffee was placed into a bag and boiling water was poured over the
• Grand Café, Oxford, England 4
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parcel, which was suspended in the coffee maker. This
We will focus on what is traditionally called ‘filter coffee’,
simple idea was later improved in 1763 when the coffee
where water is sprayed onto the coffee grounds and
pot was adapted so the ‘coffee parcel’ would fit into a
allowed to drip through under its own weight, sometimes
ring on top of the pot, improving the drink further.
called the ‘drip method’ through a filter paper.
In 1848, Elizabeth Dakin patented the ‘Buggen’ which
Developments in Brewing
had a bag or cylinder with a perforated base inside the
Developments continued and with the introduction of
coffee pot. A screw was operated to either squeeze the
electricity, the early American Silex machine with its
bag or draw up the perforated base squeezing out the
double ‘Pyrex’ flask unit was converted to incorporate an
liquor and retaining the grounds.
electric heater in its base.
Perhaps the most significant development in what we
While World War 2 raged across Europe, and pressure to
called filter coffee happened in the early 1900s. A leap
provide coffee in the workplace in the United States (US)
forward in filter coffee was made when Frau Benz, a
gave rise to the vending industry, but those organisations
German housewife, found that strong porous paper was
which were too small for this solution, demanded a small,
the filtration method that delivered the best coffee. Her
simple-to-use coffee machine. Names such as Curtis and
husband sold these papers and by 1912, he was selling
Bunn became synonymous with coffee in the workplace
thousands of metal pots with filter papers to go with
across the US. In 1972 North American Systems launched
them. The company was Melitta.
its famous ‘Mr Coffee’ machine which was to become market leader and set the standard for domestic filter machines.
What is filter coffee? One could argue that all coffee is filter coffee – the grounds are filtered from the water by various methods. In espresso machines, the water is forced through the coffee grounds at high pressure and the liquor filtered. Some automatic machines use less pressure and a paper filter system. Coffee pods use paper for filtration and again, the water is under pressure. Developments continue all the time and the AeroPress
•T he Trifecta
is a device for brewing coffee which was invented in
from Bunn
2005 by Aerobie president Alan Adler (Wikipedia and Knight Ridder Newspapers). As recent as 2010 Bunn launched an individual one cup system called the ‘trifecta’ where the grounds are agitated by air and water is forced through under low pressure.
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In post war Britain, consumer growth was at an all-time low, but the introduction of instant coffee awakened a new interest. As technology developed, new innovations in packaging meant that fresh roast and ground coffee could be kept for a long time and was readily available to both consumers and businesses alike. In 1948, Bravilor Bonamat patented its pour over system, which used the filter paper filtration system, previously discovered by Melitta and a design which maximised both water temperature and spray. This patent led to the production of the B2 which was a forerunner to today’s bulk brew machines. Coffee brewing systems in the UK mainly relied on displacement machines, which meant they permanently
• Bravilor B2, handmade filter system
held a decanter of water in a tank and required an additional flask of water to make them operational. This design was
Bravilor Bonamat launched one of the first ’flash’ boilers
based on imports from the American market at the time. In
in the UK. This machine boasted a much smaller
1957, George Bunn invented the flat bottom paper coffee
footprint and could produce a flask of coffee in only
filter for commercial use.
five minutes.
• Filter coffee machines from Bravilor Bonomat 6
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• Pressurisation
Small filter machines were ideal at meeting the demands of locations where there was a steady
Coffee has to be degassed after roasting and
demand for coffee. As the requirements for larger
grinding and before packaging. To achieve
volumes developed, the need for ‘bulk brewing’
complete degassing, the coffee would have to
increased. New systems had to be devised to brew
be left so long that its freshness would be
large quantities of coffee while maintaining the quality
compromised. With pressurisation, a laminated
of the beverage. Another challenge was how to keep
aluminium layer protects the coffee from the
large quantities of coffee hot without damaging the
atmosphere and lets the gas escape, keeping the
taste.
coffee fresh. Aluminium laminates are already used in vacuum packing and the introduction of the ‘one
Some bulk brew systems use a bain-marie method,
way valve’ allows coffee to be packed immediately
where a jacket of hot water heats the stored coffee via
after roasting.
conduction or a vacuum flask principle whilst one uses both insulation and gentle heat. Coffee Packaging Technology Developments Extending the useful life of roasted coffee beans (green beans keep for much longer) while maintaining their freshness, depended on the development of packaging technology. The techniques used for packaging roast coffee, in order of effectiveness, are: • Air packaging T his is where the coffee is protected from humidity, off flavours and light, but the presence of air means high oxygen levels and hence shortened shelf life. • Vacuum packaging
• Private label packaging (Masteroast)
T his process involves the removal of atmospheric oxygen and protecting the coffee from spoiling by
There have been two further developments which
limiting the growth of aerobic bacteria or fungi and
include the introduction of metallised layer packaging
preventing the evaporation of volatile components.
(metallised films with 0.5 to 1mm of aluminium deposit) and the recent development of clear barrier films.
• Inert gas packaging
This allows the product to be seen as part of the
T his can be done by using an inert gas kit typically
design. These systems have moved the scene on
available on chamber vacuum sealers, a type of
further in getting fresh coffee to the point of
machine that sucks the air out of packaging. After
preparation.
air has been removed, an inert gas (such as nitrogen) is added to maintain the freshness of
Coffee distributors could take advantage of the roasters’
packaged foods. The use of inert gas for coffee
knowledge and experience to blend coffees for their
packaging increases shelf life three times more
particular market and have their own customised
than vacuum packaging.
packaging.
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Improvements in Coffee Quality
More recently, outlets have been buying beans and
It’s not only the packaging that has changed
grinding them on site just prior to making the coffee,
significantly during the second half of the last century,
giving them full control over the grind and hence, the
but also branding and the contents of the packaging
taste of the final cup of coffee. The demand for better
In the 1950s and 1960s, branded coffee dominated
quality beans and coffee from all sectors of the market
the market in roast, ground and instant. There was
meant that by the end of the 20th century, we Britons
limited choice but as more coffee service businesses
were drinking far superior coffee than 50 years’ earlier.
grew from the ‘free on loan pour & serve’ market, so did the range of coffees from the private
Ethically Traded Coffee
label roasters.
Another significant development in the market in the 1990s was the growth of ethically traded products led
The contents of a coffee sachet changed
by a number of organisations such as the Fairtrade
considerably in this period. In the 1950s and 1960s,
Foundation and Rainforest Alliance. The Fairtrade
it wasn’t unusual to find fig or chicory added to the
Foundation was established by the Catholic Overseas
coffee. There was also a large percentage of robusta
Development Agency (CAFOD), Christian Aid, Oxfam,
used in all blends. A typical Viennese coffee sachet would contain 43% robusta, 43% arabica and 14%
Traidcraft and the World Development Movement. These
fig. Compare that with the contents of today’s
founding organisations were later joined by Britain’s largest
sachets, which can contain coffees such as 100%
women’s organisation, the Women’s Institute (WI).
Colombian arabica and even, in some cases, specific estate coffee.
The first Fairtrade certified product was Green & Black’s Maya gold chocolate, made with cocoa from Belize. It was
In the 1990s, customers were becoming more aware
launched in 1994 followed by Cafédirect coffee and Clipper
of what was quality coffee and the market was
tea. Fairtrade coffee now accounts for 8.4% of the overall
responding. While brands were still important,
UK market, 28% of all roast and ground coffee and 2.7% of
consumers were requesting something different and
instant coffee (Mintel 2011).
the private label roasters such as Masteroast and Coburg Coffee were responding to this change by personalising the packaging and the contents of the sachet.
• The range of Fairtrade coffees from Cafédirect 8
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Serving and Storing Coffee
Invented in 1892, the vacuum flask first came into
As the coffee quality improved and brewing methods
commercial use in 1904 via a well-known German company,
became more sophisticated, the emphasis turned to
Thermos GmbH. A practical vacuum flask is a bottle made
methods of serving and storage. Drinking freshly brewed
of metal, glass, foam and plastic with hollow walls. The
filter coffee is an enjoyable experience, but drinking the
narrow region between the inner and outer wall is evacuated
same coffee one hour later when it has been sitting on an
of air. It can be compared to two thin-walled bottles nested
uncontrolled hot plate is not.
one inside the other and sealed together at their necks. Using a vacuum flask as an insulator avoids heat transfer
There has always been this conflict with low through-put
by conduction or convection. Radiative heat loss can be
outlets between waste and the quality and freshness of
minimised by applying a reflective coating to surfaces
the coffee. The problem can be reduced by purchasing
(Wikipedia 2011). The earliest prototypes used silver, but
equipment with hot plates that self-regulate the
this is not the case today.
temperature. This will prolong the quality of the stored coffee.
It’s not known at what stage vacuum flasks became incorporated into coffee machine design, but the flexibility
The vacuum flask as a holding container was a major step
and freedom they bring to coffee service is clear— no hot
forward in prolonging the quality of brewed coffee from a
plate, no restriction on service area and no risk of burning
‘pour and serve’ machine.
the coffee!
• These airpots from Bravilor Bonamat can keep coffee hot for long periods
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The vacuum flask has evolved over time into many different
This century, filter coffee is again increasing in popularity as
variants the most common of which, within the catering
its aroma and simplicity appeals to the general public. Part
industry, is the pump action Airpot.
of this resurgence has been due to the professional barista who now questions coffee origins, processing methods,
Working on the same basic principles as the vacuum flask,
flavour profiles and the characteristics of their coffee
airpots can keep coffee hot for extended periods of time,
choices. A whole new interest in brewing techniques is
but offer a simple self-service operation. By pressing down
underway to make the most of the fine quality coffees that
on the lever, the user forces air into the coffee, increasing
we have now available to us.
pressure within the storage vessel. This pressure then The coffee market has gone through a transformation in the
forces out a quantity of hot coffee into the cup.
last 50 years - what will the next 50 bring? Airpots boast the advantage of serving coffee from a single point away from the coffee machine itself and removes the need to lift containers full of hot liquids. Another variation on the vacuum flask principle is the small serving urn with sight glass. One Cup Filter One section of the filter coffee market that is sometimes forgotten is the One Cup Filter. Rombouts, which are market leaders in this product, launched the One Cup Filter at the Brussels World Expo in 1958 and introduced it to the UK market in the early 1980s. One Cup Filters can provide fresh filter coffee by the cup, with no waste and perfect portion control. Although One Cup Filters are available in several blends, the Rombouts Original remains the most popular and contains arabicas from south and Central America. Changing culture Over the last two decades, filter coffee has seen a decline in popularity and it is widely believed this was due to the changing culture within the UK and the increasing availability of high street coffee shops making espresso based speciality drinks. This was followed by high profile marketing, which created a perception of elitism for espresso based drinks versus the humble filter. Ironically, this is no different to the way the coffee shops in the 17th century created an elitist culture for coffee at that time. • The One Cup Filter from Rombouts
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The Beverage Standards Association
The Beverage Standards Association serves and represents our members interests by delivering, developing and endorsing best practice in our industry through training, education and networking, to improve the standards and quality of products and service in the out of home hot beverage market. Our members represent manufacturers, distributors and retailers of coffee, tea, chocolate, cold drinks, ancillary products, machinery and services including training within the UK market.
Flavour needs Water. Water needs BRITA®. PURITY Quell ST PURITY C Quell ST Optimum water quality and extended life for coffee machines.
About membership – if you are dealing in any of the above products or services then the BSA can provide you with a host of benefits.
For further information please contact BRITA Professional on 01869 365851 or visit www.brita.co.uk
Beverage Standards Association members assign to a Code of Conduct and are specialists in the field of coffee; tea and chocolate beverages. They will therefore look after your needs professionally and with your business interests at heart; thus ensuring you will receive the best service for your business. The ethos of the BSA is to foster the growth of the UK Beverage market and to sponsor such growth and our members’ are an important part of this. This publication has been brought to you by the Beverage Standards Association (BSA) with the help of sponsorship from BRITAand Bravilor Bonomat, who have shown their commitment to raising standards in the industry by supporting the publication. The BSA’s members have wealth of knowledge about the beverage market and you can share in this knowledge by joining us and taking advantage of our many membership benefits. Go to www.beveragestandardassociation.co.uk and join us now.
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