Chapter 12 “green” Lawn Care

Transcript

Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care A publication of the Louisville Water Company Wellhead Protection Plan, Phase III Source Reduction Grant # X9-96479407-0 Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care We didn't always have a love affair with our lawns. In fact, it wasn't until the industrial revolution that lawns became practical for most Americans. Lawns were seen as a luxury expense for only the wealthy who could afford grounds keepers to maintain the fine bladed plants using scythes. Not everyone wanted cattle or sheep grazing in the front yard to keep the green stuff at a manageable height as did Woodrow Wilson while occupying the White House. Actually, it was an effort to draw attention to what could be done to free up men to fight and help with shortages of wool during World War I. The wool was auctioned off for $100,000 and given to the Red Cross. Speaking of presidents, early Presidents Washington and Jefferson both used sheep to keep their home lawns at manageable heights. Green, weed-free lawns so common today didn't exist in America until the late 18th century. Instead, the area just outside the front door of a typical rural home was typically packed dirt or perhaps a cottage garden that contained a mix of flowers, herbs, and vegetables. In England, however, many of the wealthy had sweeping green lawns across their estates. Americans with enough money to travel overseas returned to the U.S. with images of the English lawn firmly planted in their imaginations. Try as we might, it wasn't as easy to reproduce a beautiful English lawn. After all, they couldn't just run down to their local hardware store and pick up a bag of grass seed. Most grasses native to America proved unsuitable for a tidy and well-controlled lawn, and our extreme climate was less than hospitable to the English grass seeds. Today, U.S. homeowners spend over $17 billion on outdoor home improvements, especially on lawn care and landscaping. More than 26 million households hired a lawn care professional, according to a 2000 Gallup survey and this number grows annually. Your little patch of green has become a big business and for good reason. Why do we own and maintain a lawn? Among many advantages, a healthy lawn helps beautify the neighborhood. Green lawns create a relaxing space of natural beauty. Grassy areas quickly affect people’s moods by creating feelings of serenity, privacy, thoughtfulness, or happiness. As the yearly cycle of growth and color changes take place, the human spirit is lifted, and it links urban dwellers with their countryside heritage. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 1 There are many other reasons as well, for maintaining a lawn: • Front lawns of just eight average houses have the same cooling effect as about 70 tons of air conditioning, while the average home-size central air unit has only a 3-4 ton capacity. • While strict conservationists berate the lowly lawn as an expensive consumer of natural resources, it is actually a natural provider for our ecosystem. A healthy, dense lawn absorbs rainfall six times more effectively than a wheat field, four times better than a hay field, and prevents runoff and erosion of our precious top soil. A healthy lawn also traps much of the estimated 12 million tons of dust and dirt released into the US atmosphere annually. • Lawns purify water entering into the underground aquifer that supplies our public drinking water supply. The lawns root mass and supporting soil microbes act as massive filters to capture and breakdown many types of pollutants common to our urban environment. • A healthy, vibrant lawn also increases the real estate market value of a home and its salability. A Gallup Survey reported 62% of all US homeowners felt investment in lawns and landscaping were as good or better than other home improvements. The investment recovery rate is actually 100-200% for landscape improvement, compared to a deck or patio that will recover only 40-70% of the installation cost. Proper and well maintained landscaping adds 15% to a home's value according to buyers. A healthy, well-maintained lawn can add 15% to a home’s value, according to real estate brokers. • Recovery rates among hospitalized patients are often quicker when their rooms view a landscaped area compared to patients with non-landscaped views. • Oxygen production: a 50'x50' backyard produces enough oxygen for a family of four. • Pollution control: dust and smoke particles from the atmosphere are trapped by blades of grass. Lawns also convert carbon dioxide to oxygen. • Water quality: dense, healthy turf slows down and filters runoff, removing contaminants and trapping soil from running off as well. • Athletic playing fields covered with dense turf have proven to be safer for the athletes as demonstrated by a simple egg drop test. When a dozen raw eggs were dropped from a height of 11 feet onto a two-inch thick piece of dense turf, none broke; two thirds of the dropped eggs broke on thin turf from that height, and from just 18 inches, all the eggs broke on an all-weather track! Lawn Care in America Let's face it, your lawn, yard, grass, turf, whatever you call it, is pretty cool stuff. Grass smells good when it gets cut. Lawns feel good to walk barefoot across. Fine fescue lawns look pretty in the fall when the first frost settles in. Plus, your lawn has that wonderful environmental thing going for it. No matter what kind of grass you've got growing in your yard, the only thing all that lovely green turf asks from you is a little care, a little patience, and to be fed, watered and groomed occasionally. Sometimes, that is more than enough! An entire industry has grown out of trying to feed and trim that patch of green. The lawn care industry is now a multi-billion dollar affair that didn't exist 50 years ago, even though grasses have been around for centuries. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 2 Where our culture once accepted weed-plants and grass growing side-by-side in our lawns, it wasn't until the advent of modern day pesticide products and lawn care equipment that it became possible for us to isolate the grass plant from the weeds. Until the industrial machine starting seeing the potential in weedfree lawns, we were happy in our bliss of just accepting green spaces no matter what constituted those green areas. Marketing departments started to show us how your lawn could look just like a golf course or country club. For must of us, we became hooked on having near perfect lawns. Weeds in the lawn became unacceptable. The American consumer had no concerns about our environment or what was best for the soil. Results were all that mattered — and that's how things remained for a number of decades. That "results only" mind set is now beginning to change. More lawn care companies are offering organic programs, and taking extra precautions when using potentially harmful pesticides. In Canada, it is now illegal to apply pesticides. Even our American culture is beginning to make adjustments. In the next decade we may see a complete ban on pesticides in the United States. Tighter restrictions or modifications of consumer products will probably make it tougher to kill weeds and bugs. Our population is growing so fast that we cannot proceed as we have in the past, for fear of harming our future. A Harris Interactive survey reports that U.S. households spent in excess of $11.6 billion on lawn care in 2003. An ideal lawn or a picture perfect lawn seems like a worthy goal in lawn care. But, “ideal” may mean different things to different people. Many homeowners are trying to reduce the amount of time and money spent on lawn care maintenance—not only to conserve energy, but be good stewards of the environment. How do you achieve a beautiful, landscaped lawn area and remain a good environmental steward? The basic elements for a healthy, beautiful lawn include: • Soil health; • Good soil drainage; • Seed mixtures for the right location and purpose; and • The use of cultural controls for pests and the judicious use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. In short, Best Management Practices for the lawn is the road to a healthy, attractive lawn area or green space that will enhance the value of your home. Best Management Practices Best Management Practices, (BMPs) are basically common sense standard operating practices that can reduce the threat that normal activities in homes or businesses can pose to ground and surface water supplies. BMPs have been developed for many activities that involve the storage, handling, use, distribution, or transport of hazardous or toxic substances, like pesticides and other lawn chemicals. They can help prevent the release of these substances or control these releases in an environmentally sound matter. They can also save you time and money! Whether you do-it-yourself or hire a professional lawn care service, there are many ways that you can be a good steward of the environment. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 3 Studies confirm that loss of pesticides to ground and surface waters continues to threaten water resources in many parts of the country. Applying pesticides to saturated lawns or when wet weather is predicted greatly increases the risk of loss. It is evident that lawn care companies and homeowners need to better understand the risks of applying fertilizers and pesticides under unfavorable conditions to slopes, drainage areas, storm drains, saturated soils, near wells or just prior to heavy rain events. Heavy rains can easily wash away applications of fertilizers and pesticides from turf areas and move them into our precious and still somewhat pristine water resources. Industry professionals, environmentalists, and government agencies agree that BMPs will improve the practices of lawn care operations, either commercially or for homeowners. Adding to this concern is the dramatic increase in distribution and use of lawn and garden pesticides. Most of this material was a combination of fertilizers and pesticides, (weed & feed products), applied to residential and commercial lawns. Another purpose for these BMPs is to minimize reliance on pesticides. Why use Best Management Practices? Each of us is becoming more environmentally conscious and willing to "pitch in" to help the environment in our own way. Many of us are now recycling aluminum cans and plastic containers, taking our used motor oil to participating stations, purchasing more energy-efficient appliances for our homes, and willing to buy more products made with recycled material. This is the age of environmental consumerism! One person's or family's environmental stewardship can make a difference, and collectively, it's making a big impact on our environment. If you're one of the 50 million homeowners trying their best to maintain a healthy lawn and landscape, you're an even better environmental steward than you may have thought! Our home landscape and maintained grass areas are major environmental helpers that are often overlooked. Just think of what our world would be like without lawns, trees, and shrubs! Let's focus on the environmental benefits of grass: In the United States alone, it is estimated that there is more than 31 million acres of grass -- about 50,000 square miles of it. If we could put it all together, that would be about the size of the New England states! Over 80% of this grass is found in lawns like yours. General Best Management Practices for the Lawn Fertilizing Did you know that by maintaining a healthy lawn is actually good for the environment? Just watch the use and application of fertilizers and pesticides. To maintain a high-quality lawn, you should likely apply a fertilizer every year. To know how much fertilizer to apply, you should have a soil test performed on your lawn every 3 or 4 years. The Jefferson County Cooperative Extension Service, (502-569-2344), or your local nursery can help you test your lawn. Here are some important things to remember: Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 4 • The rule of thumb for nitrogen application is one pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 ft2 of lawn. • The best time to apply nitrogen is in the fall for cool-season grasses such as tall fescue and bluegrass. This helps build a strong root system, making the grass more resistant to insects and weeds, and more drought tolerant. • When applying fertilizer, it is important to calibrate your spreader! Call the Jefferson County Cooperative Extension for more information on how to calibrate your spreader, (502-569-2344). Also, you can check the Pesticide Application/Equipment Calibration section of this guidebook. (Chapter 9) • If fertilizer lands on the sidewalk or street, sweep it back onto the lawn. It is of no use to fertilize concrete and it may be washed away, contaminating surface water and groundwater. • Do not apply fertilizer when heavy rains are predicted. • Be sure to thoroughly wash out the spreader after use. Fertilizer left in a metal spreader will corrode the spreader. Be sure all rinse water drains on the lawn and not the sidewalk or driveway. Mowing Correct mowing techniques are also necessary for a high quality lawn. Mowing too closely will make it susceptible to weeds and disease. (For more information, see ““A Healthy Lawn Helps the Environment”.) • A dull blade on the mower is harder on the mower and uses more fuel. Sharpen your mower blade four to six times a year. • Mow when the grass is dry. Wet grass causes the mower to bog down and causes uneven cuts. Don’t Bag it Clippings are good for your lawn, especially if you use a mulching lawn mower. Did you know that clippings: • Do not cause thatch? The collection of clippings has no effect on the accumulation of thatch. • Are natural sources of fertilizer? Clippings return up to 25% of a lawn’s annual needs in nutrients. • Are a waste of your valuable time and effort if you collect and dispose of them? • Increase landfill loads that may contribute to groundwater pollution? If you must collect clippings, try using them as compost, or as mulch around ornamental plants or between rows in the garden. Doing so reduces weed competition, conserves soil moisture, and returns nutrients to the soil. If used in the garden, turn the clippings occasionally so they don’t become matted. You can also use them in your compost pile. A composted mixture of clippings, leaves, wood chips, etc. are great to modify garden soil. Watering When you water the lawn, remember two things—water deeply and infrequently. Don’t use an automatic timer system, as it often waters the lawn even if it is raining. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 5 • Water only during excessively dry periods. Apply about one inch of water, once or twice a week if no rain occurs. • Early morning is the best time of day to water. Watering early in the day washes dew from leaves and allows leaves to dry faster, discouraging disease. • Place an empty pie pan in the line of the sprinkler. When the water level in the pan reaches about 1 inch, you have watered enough. • Watering is required for turf mowed close and fertilized in the spring and/or summer. Always Remember: If you use pesticides on the lawn, read and follow label directions. Wear the appropriate protective clothing. Keep pets and children off the lawn for the recommended amount of time, according to the label, or at least until the lawn is dry if not otherwise specified. Try to keep wildlife off the lawn by using plastic owls, plastic snakes, tin pie pans tied to trees, or other means to repel the wildlife from the lawn. The Jefferson County Cooperative Extension Service, (502-569-2344), is available to answer questions or help with soil tests, weed or disease identification. Your lawn can help the environment! Did you know that grass cleans the air and water? The next time it rains, notice where the water comes from that fills the street gutters and flows into the storm sewers. You'll find that very little run-off comes from your lawn. That's because dense, healthy grass is the best natural surface we have for trapping precipitation and reducing soil erosion. A healthy 10,000-sq.-ft. lawn (about the size of an average suburban lot) can absorb more than 6,000 gallons of rainwater without noticeable runoff. The water nourishes grass, trees, shrubs, and flowers before soaking through the topsoil and replenishing groundwater supplies. The groundwater reserve is very important, since it is the main source of fresh water for many of our communities, including a part of the Louisville/Metro water supply. Grass also helps clean our air. With about 8 million individual grass plants in a well-maintained average-sized 10,000-sq.ft.lawn, it’s no wonder that grass is a primary collector of dust and dirt. It is estimated that grass areas trap some 12 million tons of dust and dirt from the air annually. For example, just one acre of grass can absorb hundreds of pounds of fossil fuelcreated sulfur dioxide in a single year. Comfort and Energy Conservation -- The greenery around us truly is nature's air conditioner! A wellmaintained lawn and landscape keeps your home cooler on hot days, reducing surface temperatures by 30 to 40 degrees compared with bare soil, and 50 to 70 degrees cooler than streets and driveways. Thanks Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 6 to your landscape and those of your neighbors, you're conserving energy resources...and saving money. Other ways of saving energy will be discussed later! Life-giving Oxygen Generator -- Here's another fact that might surprise you. Grass and other plant material are a source of the air we breathe. Through the process of photosynthesis, green plants convert carbon dioxide and other gases into oxygen. Your landscape is one of the best oxygen producers we have, with a 50-ft. by 50-ft. area producing enough oxygen for a family of four. Furthermore, it is estimated that the grass and trees along the U.S. interstate highway system release enough oxygen to support 22 million people annually. Soil Builder -- Grass is one of the major producers of new soil. Your lawn is continually making topsoil by developing, dying off, decomposing, and redeveloping. By leaving clippings on the lawn and allowing it to decay naturally (called grass-cycling), you return to the lawn a significant amount of nutrients that help it to grow. This helps reduce the need for fertilizers. Grasscycling also helps our communities solve their growing landfill problems. Did you know that the average lawn produces 233 pounds of grass clippings per 1,000 square foot during the growing season? It is estimated that 25% of our landfill areas are made up of grass clippings and lawn debris. More and more state and local governments are passing laws to prohibit lawn waste in landfills. Grass-cycling definitely helps the environment. Grass helps build healthy soil, which reduces runoff. Reducing Chemical Use -- Proper mowing, watering, and fertilizing practices develop a lawn that needs fewer chemicals to control weed, insect, and disease problems. This is particularly true when you have established your lawn with improved grass varieties, or with native plants. These improved varieties generally provide a denser grass cover that is more resistant to insect and disease damage, more tolerant of drought, and has lower fertility requirements. The reduction of chemical use contributes to a more balanced natural environment. Buy a premium turfgrass sod or seed variety, mixture, or blend suitable for your area. Or, use native plants for a more beautiful, less traditional lawn. America the Beautiful – Wherever grass grows, it not only provides environmental benefits, but also gives us a place to relax, have fun, cool off, and generally feel good about ourselves. Did you know that one of the things most missed by soldiers during the Desert Storm Operation in the Middle East was a green lawn? One Family Can Make a Difference! Just as individual aluminum and plastic recycling efforts help the environment, one family can make another positive contribution by creating and properly caring for a quality lawn area. In addition to possibly realizing a 10 to 15% increase in property value from a wellmaintained lawn and landscape, you will have lower summertime air conditioning bills and will be contributing to an improved environment. How to Have a Beautiful Lawn with Less Work It sounds like a dream, doesn’t it? A beautiful lawn with less work… But it can be a reality with planning, good maintenance practices, and the use of the Best Management Practices listed above. So, how do you have a beautiful lawn with less work? Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 7 Well, it all starts with obtaining the right information. Despite what the television and newspaper ads proclaim, if you only use the right products, then anyone can achieve such spectacular results that they will be the envy of the neighborhood. In fact, these advertisements are designed for one purpose only: to sell more of their products. What they don't tell you is that for a beautiful, healthy lawn you need to go deeper and understand the true basic elements that go into an ideal green space. Commercials and advertising programs only give you one part of the picture. It's not that what they're saying isn't true, most of it is, but it's not the entire story. If these lawn care products were the only missing elements to a healthy green lawn, then more people would have one. Most homeowners are puzzled when their grass doesn't stay green and vibrant all season long, or when it suddenly turns yellow, or worse, deathly brown after applying expensive fertilizers. Sure, the grass did perk up for a little while, but continuing to use the fertilizer is only putting a band-aid on the problem— and an expensive one at that. The problem lies lower down in the soil. The basic elements for a healthy, beautiful lawn include: • Soil health and drainage; • Integrated Pest Management practices; and • Seeds and plants chosen for the right location and purpose Soil Soil covers the vast majority of the exposed portion of the earth in a thin layer. The most immediately apparent function of soil is a medium to support plant life. It provides support both physically and biologically. Physical support is provided by allowing the plant to grow its roots through the soil to hold itself in place. Biological support is provided by its ability to hold nutrients and water that the plant needs. Soil also supports other types of life as well. Microorganisms and insects live in the soil and they in turn aid plant life by helping to decay organic material and adding structure to the soil. Soil allows the growth of food crops which are consumed by humans and also plants used in the creation of medicines. Microorganisms like fungi and bacteria that live in soil and are used to produce antibiotics. All life on earth is dependant on it either directly and indirectly. This includes the plant life in your garden. The four major components of soil are mineral matter, organic matter (humus), water and air. Mineral matter refers to the inorganic elements in the soil, e.g. stones, gravel and makes up to 40%60% of its volume. This part of the soil usually originates from the bedrock that lies beneath the soil. Organic matter (humus) is the decayed remains and waste products of plants and animals and has a great effect on the chemical properties of the soil, e.g. availability of nutrients. Almost 40%-60% of a soil's volume can be space and this is occupied by water and air. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 8 Soil texture -- Soil texture is defined as the size distribution of different mineral particles. These mineral particles are-- at their most basic level—sand-sized particles, silt-sized particles and clay-sized particles. Sand-sized particles are 2 to 0.05 mm diameter, silt-sized particles are 0.05 to 0.002 mm diameter and clay-sized particles are <0.002 mm diameter. Combination of these particles exhibit different properties in soil and some combinations favor plant life better than others. The following are the most common classes of soil texture: *not to scale There are several different systems in place that denote the particle sizes. The values given above pertain to the USDA Soil Taxonomy system. You probably have a good idea of what gravel and sand particles look like, but maybe not silt or clay. Silt particles are about as big as the thickness of your hair, and clay particles are much smaller than that! Generally, soils consist of a mixture of different particle types, such as "sandy clay", or ”silty sand". 1. Clay soil -- Contains a high percentage of clay particles and feels lumpy to the touch. The small size of the clay particles means that they clump together quite readily and there is less room for air spaces. Consequently clay soils have poor drainage and do not hold nutrients very well. This is a heavy soil and is sticky when wet, making it hard to work with. As much as possible you should take steps to improve the drainage of this type of soil. You will learn how later on in this guide. 2. Silty soil - Contains a high percentage of silt particles and feels smooth to the touch. This soil is a well drained soil due to the size of the particles allowing space for water to permeate. This soil holds nutrients more readily than clay soil due to the spaces. It is easy to cultivate but can be compacted quite easily. 3. Sandy soil - Contains a high percentage of sand particles and feels gritty to the touch. It allows for quite a lot of space in between particles and as a result is very free draining. This has its disadvantages however as it doesn’t hold water, and essential nutrients can get washed away. 4. Loamy soil - This is the best type of soil texture you can have in your garden. This is soil whose properties are controlled equally by the percentages of clay, silt and sand particles. It is well drained but does not lose water too easily as is the case with sandy and sometimes silty soils. The fact that it retains water means it also retains nutrients for your plants to use. It has a great structure and is easy to cultivate. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 9 Clay soil Silt soil Sandy soil Loamy soil What makes a soil healthy? -- Healthy soil must be fertile and have a good structure. For a soil to be fertile it must have nutrients readily available and a pH value at a recommended level for the plants that will reside in it. Nutrients that should be available are the essential nutrients nitrogen (leaf growth), phosphorous (root growth and overall health). As well as the essential nutrients there should also be trace elements like calcium and magnesium. The pH level of the soil refers to its acidity or alkalinity and each plant has its own preferred value range. Plants placed into fertile soil will grow up to be very strong and healthy specimens (that is if other conditions like light levels and climate are favorable as well). The other determiner of a healthy soil is its texture. Soil having a loamy texture is the healthiest and it should be strived for if at all possible. In general a soil that retain nutrients and allow water and air to permeate it will be beneficial for the life of your plants. How to create a healthy soil -- No matter what type of soil you have the addition of organic matter will work wonders for its health. Organic matter is plant and animal residues in varying forms of decomposition. Compost will replenish the nutrients in your soil and improve its texture. You may have heard countless times about adding your leftovers and glass clippings to a compost heap. This is a great idea as your compost is the best form of organic matter. Compost in an advanced stage of decomposition (dark and without smell) is magic for your soil. It encourages microorganism activity causing soil particles to clump together and form aggregates. The aggregates allows for spaces in the soil therefore increasing its drainage. This is especially beneficial for clay soils, which have poor drainage. Other forms of organic matter are animal manure and peat moss. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Finished compost is a dark color and has little odor. Page 10 If your soil is lacking in nutrients and you don't have access to a compost heap you have a choice of using inorganic or organic fertilizers. Inorganic fertilizers (inorganic salts, manufactured chemically), can be purchased at your local garden and are applied in a dry form that is raked lightly at the base of a plant or in a liquid form. While inorganic fertilizers will work fine they have a number of disadvantages: they release their nutrients too quickly and there is some evidence to show that plants develop a resistance to inorganic fertilizer methods over time, requiring more and more to achieve the same effect. Organic fertilizers are more in tune with nature because they are created from the remains or by-product of an organism. They act slower but they 'amend' the soil rather than the quick 'feeding' it like inorganic fertilizers. It is much better to improve the soil, rather than feed the plant! Inorganic fertilizer can be purchased nearly anywhere and contains manufactured “grains” or is a liquid mix of nitrogen, phosphate, and potash. These are relatively ‘fast’ release fertilizers that must be carefully used to protect the environment. There are many different kinds of organic fertilizer, one of which is bone meal. Many of the organic fertilizers have a similar chemical balance as the inorganic fertilizers, but are slower release. Care must still be exercised with their use to protect the environment What is soil pH? - Let's get all scientific for a moment and learn what pH is. In chemistry, pH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline a solution is. Basically soil pH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline your soil is. Soil pH is measured on a scale of 1 to 14. If your soil has a pH value of less than 7 then you have acidic soil. On the other hand if your soil has a pH value of greater than 7 then you have alkaline soil. A pH value of 7 is neutral, meaning you have neither acidic nor alkaline soil. How can soil pH affect plants? - Knowing the pH value of your soil before planting is very important as it has a direct influence on the health of the plant. Each plant has its own recommended soil pH value range. The reason for this is that soil pH affects the availability of nutrients within the soil and plants have different nutrient needs. For example the nutrient nitrogen, a very important plant nutrient, is readily available in soil when the pH value is above 5.5. Similarly, the nutrient phosphorous is available when the pH value is between 6 and 7. If a plant is placed into the wrong kind of soil it will be lacking in nutrients that it needs which will promote disease or stunt its growth. In general the best pH value range for soil is approximately 6 or 7 as this is the range in which most nutrients can be readily available. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 11 Finding out the pH of soil – Finding out the pH of soil is usually a trivial matter and the kits to do so should be available at most good garden centers. Usually a pH testing kit will include a small container/test tube, testing solution and a color chart. A sample of soil is taken from your garden, placed into the container/test tube and a few drops of testing solution are added. The container is then shaken and left for a certain period of time. The color of the sample in the container is then compared against the color chart to determine the pH value of the soil. Note that if you want to determine the soil pH of a large area it may be a good idea to take soil samples from many different locations, combine the samples and then perform the test on the combined sample. There are many kinds of soil pH test kits. More about pH – The picture to the left shows examples of common acidic and alkaline substances on the pH scale. From this, you can imagine how substance that is too acidic or alkaline can drastically affect the plants in your yard. A quick way to estimate the pH of an area is to look to see if there are any house hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) already growing in the area. If so, observe the color of its flowers. A soil pH of 6 or below will produce blue flowers while a soil pH of 6.8 or higher will produce pink flowers. Acid soil -- Most turfgrass species will perform best at a pH between 6 and 7. A pH as low as 5 does not present severe problems to turf, except that it may encourage development of Kentucky Bluegrass thatch. Since tall fescue accumulates no thatch, it does well at low pH levels. A soil pH between 5 and 7 is within the range of adaptation for most tree and shrub species (although azaleas and rhododendrons may prefer a pH of 4.5 and should certainly be maintained at pH levels below 6.0). For acid-loving plants, you may need to increase the soil's acidity in the vicinity of landscape plants. If the soil is above a pH of 6.5, the most practical thing to do is to bring in additional soil to form a berm—a shelf around the plant. For shrubs like rhododendrons and azaleas, a berm should be at least 20 inches tall at the edge and a minimum of 3 feet across—large enough to provide an adequate rooting area for the plant at maturity. A berm is not recommended for trees because of trees' extensive root system. The soil for the berm should consist of a 50:50 mixture of topsoil and peat moss. For soils with pH below 6.5, contact your County Extension Agent or County Soil Conservationist for information on adjusting the soil’s pH. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 12 Alkaline soil -- A soil pH just above 8, which is the maximum found in Kentucky, will not detrimentally affect turf, although it will be a serious problem for woody plant species such as azaleas, rhododendrons, dogwoods, hollies, oaks, and blueberries. Other species, such as butterfly bush, beech, and the viburnums, may grow well at a pH of 7 or above. Plants should be matched to a soil's natural pH as much as possible, since permanently adjusting soil pH to a radically different level is difficult. However, even if the pH is not optimum for a particular species, plants rarely die because of a pH problem alone. Improper soil pH will, however, reduce plant growth rate and cause yellowing (chlorosis), especially between veins of new leaves. This stress, if severe, will allow otherwise harmless microorganisms to attack the affected plant and cause the death of roots, branch tips, or even whole plants. Remember to always take into account soil pH when deciding what to plant in your soil. If you do not know what the pH of your soil is then test your soil and if need be, contact your County Extension Agent or County Soil and Water Conservationist about methods you can use to change the pH value over time. What is the significance of pH? – Soil pH influences the solubility of nutrients, and affects the activity of micro-organisms responsible for breaking down organic matter and most chemical transformations in the soil. Soil pH thus affects the availability of several plant nutrients. A pH range of 6 to 7 is generally most favorable for plant growth because most plant nutrients are readily available in this range. However, some plants have soil pH requirements above or below this range. Soils that have a pH below 5.5 generally have a low availability of calcium, magnesium, and phosphorus. At these low pH’s, the solubility of aluminum, iron, and boron is high; and low for molybdenum. At pH 7.8 or more, calcium and magnesium are abundant. Molybdenum is also available if it is present in the soil minerals. High pH soils may have an inadequate availability of iron, manganese, copper, zinc, and especially of phosphorus and boron. Soil pH affects many micro-organisms. The type and population densities change with pH. A pH of 6.6 to 7.3 is favorable for microbial activities that contribute to the availability of nitrogen, sulfur, and phosphorus in soils. In addition, most pesticides are labeled for specific soil conditions. If soils have a pH outside the allowed range, the pesticides may become ineffective, changed to an undesirable form, or may not degrade as expected, which results in problems for the next crop period. Many heavy metals become more water soluble under acid conditions and can move downward with water through the soil, and in some cases move to aquifers, surface streams, or lakes. Soil pH is one of several properties used as a general indicator of soil corrosivity. Generally, soils that are either highly alkaline or highly acid are likely to be corrosive to steel. Soils that have pH of 5.5 or lower are likely to be highly corrosive to concrete. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 13 What controls soil pH? -- The acidity or alkalinity in soils has several different sources. In natural systems, the pH is affected by the mineralogy, (chemical nature of the parent rock), climate, and weathering. Management of soils often alters the natural pH because of acid-forming nitrogen fertilizers, or removal of bases (potassium, calcium, and magnesium). Soils that have sulfur-forming minerals can produce very acid soil conditions when they are exposed to air. These conditions often occur near recent mining activity where the soil is drained. Acid mine drainage is a problem in many areas of the state of Kentucky. Limestone is the parent rock for many of the soils in Kentucky. The picture above is of a sample of the Louisville Limestone Formation. Soil Temperature – Planting new grass seeds in the fall can be risky if you wait too long to sow the seed. It is the soil temperature that governs root growth and overall plant development. So, if you have a prolonged warm fall, the odds are in your favor. A quick cooling, or an early winter, will deter grass root development. A research project by The Ohio State University Extension showed that cool-season grass roots can grow as much as 1" a week when soil temperatures are in the 50 — 65 degree range in the fall and spring. Soil temperature is another good indicator when to aerate. Again, when soil temperatures are in that 50 — 65 degree range it is the best time to aerate your lawn for optimum root development. Core aeration provides an oxygen-rich environment for root growth and allows more water into the soil that also promotes root growth. Soil Biology -- Fertilizer provides the nutrients that microbes convert into a solution that is easily absorbed by the turf grass roots. The key is MICROBES in the soil! You must have microbes to convert the fertilizer so it is usable. Without the microbes, then too much fertilizer never gets used and is wasted. Microbes like soils with lots of organic matter, isn't compacted, and doesn't get flooded very often. You don't really need to add additional microbes; they will come if you just roll out the welcome matt and give them some good healthy soil. The major role of the bacteria and fungi is to decompose organic materials in the root zone, (or upper soil horizon), including the cells of their recently dead microbial colleagues. It is precisely this turnover of root tissues and microbial cells that make more microbial cells and synthesize some soil organic matter (humus) along the way. This is why we recommend using mulching mowers and returning grass clippings and the nutrients in them back to the soil where they belong. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Microbes in soil Page 14 There are countless microbes in soils and literally tons of microbial cells in normal, healthy turfgrass systems. Grasslands have long been known to support large populations of soil microbes. A healthy stand of grass can literally contain tons of soil microbes! Thus, we know that soils with large active populations do in fact create lots of beneficial processes in the soil. What do you need to do for soil microbes? It is in answers to this question that we find much misinformation! A common misconception about soil microbes is that using synthetic fertilizers and other management inputs (pesticides, etc.) somehow kills the soil microbial population leading to "dead" or "sterile" soils. While it is true that fertilizers may inflict some harm on microbes directly exposed to granules or to anhydrous ammonia, the overall effect of fertilizer applications is to markedly increase microbial numbers and activity in soil through increased plant growth. However, you can achieve much of the same results with replacing the grass clippings on your lawn, or adding a thin layer of compost to the top layer of soil. The picture below shows the relationship between microbes and the soil. Relationships between soil food web, plants, organic matter, and birds and mammals. Courtesy of USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service. Soil Pests If you already have a healthy soil and you're still seeing brown spots, it could be that the soil simply needs a different kind of boost. Perhaps a pest is thriving in the soil such as white grubs or chinch bugs that eat away at the roots or the grass' root crown, both of which will cause the grass to wither and die. With just a little bit of research, these problems can be overcome, and it usually isn’t expensive to do. The important thing is to make sure you understand what the problem is before trying different treatments. That's one of the main reasons for identifying a pest or for using a soil test. The Jefferson County Cooperative Extension, or the Jefferson County Soil and Water District can give you a good assessment of any problems that you're experiencing and they can treat the problem the right way, the first time, without lots of trial and error. To help identify soil pests, ‘scout’ your lawn, as described in Chapter 10, Integrated Pest Management. Then, in Chapter 11, you can identify whether the pest you find is a beneficial bug, a benign bug, or a pest. From that, return to the cultural control section in Chapter 10, to learn how to deal with the pest without chemicals. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 15 Soil Testing – One of the most important parts of planning and managing your lawn is collecting a good, representative soil sample. Soil test results are based solely on the few ounces of soil submitted to the laboratory for analysis. These few ounces can represent a million pounds or more of soil, so it is imperative to collect a representative sample. If this sample does not reflect actual soil conditions, the results can be misleading and lead to costly over- or under-fertilization, or the selection of plants that will not thrive in the soil’s environment. If your home is less than 30 years old, there is a good chance that your home was built on land that was originally crop land. Only more recently have farmers learned that no-tillage crops are easier on the soil, and helps to prevent soil compaction. Until lately, most farmers preferred to till the soil until it was broken down into finer particles. During the building process or your home, the builder likely dug through different soil horizons, mixing them on the surface, and, once the house was built, smoothed the soil and dirt around the house. These practices mix soil horizons, often placing the valuable top soil beneath the sub-soils at the surface. Then, to make matters worse, the builders often use heavy equipment to compact the soil to prevent temporary erosion during the conclusion of the building process. Often, the soil covers up construction debris near the house, such as brick chunks, small pieces of wood, even metal cans, tools, or other hardware. Soil horizons are often mixed during construction. For these reasons, different soil types, different lots, and often areas within the same lot vary in the availability of plant nutrients. Also, a lot may contain a low level of one nutrient and a high level of another nutrient. Such variations are usually due to differences in: • Previous fertilizer and lime applications during farming practices; • Crop history; • Nutrient contents of the parent rock; and • Loss of surface soil through erosion. Soil testing is the best way to identify these differences and to adjust the soil’s fertility. Soil samples can be collected through much of the year, although fall (September to December) or spring (February to April) are the best times. Fall sampling will often result in a faster return of results and recommendations. Fall sampling will also allow the homeowner time to apply additional compost or fertilizer well before planting grass or other plants. However, fall sampling results in lower pH and soil test K, (Potassium), levels when conditions are dry. In either case, a lawn should always be sampled the same time of the year in order to make historical comparisons. Most lawns should be sampled every three to four years. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 16 Tools Needed -- A soil probe, auger, garden trowel, or a spade, and a clean, dry, plastic bucket all the tools you need to take the individual cores that will make up the “field” sample. Be sure not to use galvanized or rubber buckets because they will contaminate the sample with zinc. Soil sample boxes or bags and information forms for submitting samples are available at all County Extension offices. Or, you may place your sample in a plastic bag to transport it to the County Extension office. Kentucky’s County Extension services normally charge a small fee for performing a soil sample. Where to Sample -Sample gardens, lawns, and landscaped areas separately. Collect cores randomly from each area. The area to sample for trees includes the soil below the width of the tree. For shrubs, flower beds, and gardens, sample just the soil where the plants are growing. You should sample problem areas and areas with shrubs, trees, or flower beds separately from other turf or lawn areas. Separate samples should be collected for different areas of the lawn, and grouped with similar sampling points. The pictures above show four separate test areas. Do not sample: • Compost areas, • Under the drip-line of trees, and • Close to driveways or streets. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 17 Sample Depth -- One commonly overlooked component of soil sampling is the depth of soil to be tested. Most plant nutrients accumulate at the soil surface. This nutrient stratification is a result of past broadcast fertilizer applications and decomposition of plant residue on the soil surface. Because there is a higher concentration of nutrients on the soil surface, soil test values usually go down as the sample depth is increased. To obtain accurate and consistent (between different years) results, samples must be taken to the following depths for these areas: 1. Depending on the history of the soil, samples should be collected at various depths. Tilled Areas, (Garden areas that have had the soil disturbed prior to planting.) Take soil cores to the depth of the tillage operation (usually 6 to 8 inches); 2. Non- or Reduced-Till Areas, (Garden areas that have not been tilled or have had minimal disturbance), Take soil cores to a depth of 3 to 4 inches, where fertilizer has been applied, or to a depth of 1 to 2 inches, where fertilizer is incorporated only in the surface 1 to 2 inches. 3. Lawns and Turf grasses, Collect soil cores to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. Sample Preparation -- After all cores for an individual sample are collected and placed in the bucket, crush the soil material and mix the sample. Allow the sample to air dry in an open space free from contamination. Do not dry the sample in an oven or at an abnormally high temperature. When dry, fill the sample container with the soil. Once dry, break up any clods by hand, mix the sample again, and place about 1 pint, (2 cups), of the soil in a soil sample bag or sealed plastic bag to transport the sample to the County Extension office. What tests are made? – A routine soil test consists of tests for pH, and extractable phosphorous, potassium, calcium, magnesium, zinc, and an estimated Cation Exchange Capacity. What do these results mean? Once you receive the results of the soil test, you can make corrections to your soil, so that the plants you select will thrive in your backyard environment. Table 1 shows the various types of results and what may be done, generally, to correct the soil. The University of Kentucky County Extension Service will help you to decide what you should do to improve your soil. Many improvements may be made without the use of manufactured chemicals, or, you can select plants that fit into your yard’s soil environment. The results of a soil test analysis are usually presented to the home owner on a form. The example below is a copy of the form used by the Kentucky Cooperative Extension. We would like to thank the UK Cooperative Extension for this illustration. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 18 The results of the test are clearly written on the form, as are recommendations for adjustments to be made to the soil. However, prior to adding anything to the soil, other than peat moss or compost, you should discuss the results of the test with your County Cooperative Extension Agent. A description of the results may be seen below in Table 1. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 19 Table 1 – Results of Soil Testing Result High pH, (above 8.5) Low pH, (below 5.5) Low nitrogen High nitrogen Low phosphorus High phosphorous Low potassium High potassium Poor drainage Too much drainage Soil Adjustment Soils with a high pH are alkaline. To lower pH, add sulfur into the soil surrounding the existing plants or into new planting beds. Remember that some plants prefer a high pH. A low pH reading is an indication that your soil is too acidic. To correct the problem, add lime to the soil and mix well. Remember that some plants prefer a low pH. This is a common problem with soil. Use natural, nitrogen-rich fertilizers according to the rate suggested by the manufacturer. High nitrogen levels are usually the result of soils that have been over-fertilized. Water the soil well and stop adding fertilizer for several months. Mix superphosphate or bone meal into your garden soil, making sure to mix these amendments into the soil thoroughly. Be careful not to add too much, as phosphate runoff can increase nutrients in surface water, leading to algae growth. This problem is usually caused by too much high-phosphate fertilizer. Do not use phosphorous-rich fertilizer for two years, and grow an abundance of plants to use up the excess. Work in potash or wood ashes. Avoid using wood ashes around acid-loving plants because these are alkaline and may diminish the growth of the plants. Add nitrogen and phosphorous to help balance the soil, but do not add potassiumrich fertilizers or soil amendments for two to three years. Heavy clay soil tends to drain poorly. Thoroughly mix in peat moss, compost or other organic materials to help loosen the soil. Sandy soil drains too quickly to hold necessary nutrients. Add organic materials to remedy soil that drains too quickly, just as you would for poor drainage conditions. Results of the pH test – Soil pH is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity in the soil. It is also called soil reaction. The most common classes of soil pH are: Extremely Acid Very Strongly Acid Strongly Acid Moderately Acid Slightly Acid Neutral Slightly Alkaline Moderately Alkaline Strongly Alkaline 3.5 – 4.4 4.5 – 5.0 5.1 – 5.5 5.6 – 6.0 6.1 – 6.5 6.6 – 7.3 7.4 – 7.8 7.9 – 8.4 8.5 – 9.0 How is soil pH modified? -- A soil pH below about 5.6 is considered low for most crops. Generally, the ideal pH range is between 6.0 and 7.0. Liming is a common method to increase the pH. It involves adding finely ground limestone to the soil. The reaction rate for limestone increases when soil temperatures are warm and soil moisture is high. If the limestone is more finely ground, the reaction is faster. The amount of limestone to apply depends on the amount of organic matter and clay as well as the pH. Soil fertility testing laboratories that have local experience make this determination. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 20 A soil pH that is more than about 8.0 is considered high for most landscape plants, and is often also calcareous. Calcareous soils are usually produced from limestone bedrock, and have a high content of calcium carbonate. The treatment of high acid soils to raise the pH and turn them more alkaline is to add lime, or ground limestone, which at least temporarily makes the soil more alkaline. Treatments with acid generally are uneconomical for soils that have a content of calcium carbonate of more than about 5%. Because phosphorus, iron, copper, and zinc are less available to plants in calcareous soils, nutrient deficiencies are often apparent within plants grown in these kinds of soils. Applications of these nutrients are commonly more efficient than trying to change the pH. Remember that many plants prefer an acid soil. When the soil pH is above 8.6, sodium often is present. These soils generally do not have gypsum or calcium carbonates, at least not in the affected soil horizons. Addition of gypsum followed by leaching using irrigation is a common reclamation practice. However, chemical salts flushed into drainage water may contaminate downstream waters and soils. The application of anhydrous ammonia as a nitrogen fertilizer contributes to lowering the soil pH. In some parts of the country, applications of ammonia lower the surface soil pH from ranges of 6.6 to 7.3 to below 5.6. This reduction can be easily overlooked in areas of no-till cropping unless the pH is measured in the upper 2 inches. Chemical amendments that contain sulfur generally form an acid, which lowers the soil pH. Adjusting the pH of your soil can be tricky. Before making a wholesale treatment of your soil’s pH, check the chart below, and consult with your County Extension Agent, or Soil and Water Conservation Service. Table 2 lists the pounds of limestone needed per 1000 square feet to make the pH of your soil more alkaline. Table 2 – Adjustments to the pH of Soil, in Pounds of Lime per 1000 Ft.2 Current pH 4.8 4.9 5.0 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 5.5 Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Sand To 6.0 60 55 50 45 40 35 30 25 To 6.5 85 80 75 70 65 60 55 50 Soil Type Loam To 6.0 To 6.5 100 140 95 130 85 128 80 115 70 110 65 100 55 95 50 85 Clay To 6.0 140 125 115 100 90 75 65 55 Page 21 T 6.5 200 185 160 150 135 125 110 100 Table 2 – Adjustments to the pH of Soil, in Pounds of Lime per 1000 Ft.2 Current pH 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 Sand To 6.0 20 15 10 5 To 6.5 45 40 35 30 Soil Type Loam To 6.0 To 6.5 40 80 30 70 20 65 10 55 Clay To 6.0 45 35 25 15 T 6.5 90 80 70 60 Some plants are more tolerant of acidic or alkaline soils, and some plants prefer acidic and alkaline soils. A listing of native species with special pH requirements or tolerances may be found in Appendix I. Please note that the use of mulch may alter a soil’s pH in the vicinity of a plant. For example, Murray State University has completed a study on the use of hardwood mulch on plants that prefer acid soils. It was found that after using the hardwood mulch, many plants that normally require a more acidic soil failed to thrive. Further investigation indicated that the hardwood mulch had changed the soil in the vicinity of the plants into a more alkaline soil, which the plants did not tolerate well. Soil Fertility -- Every soil that contains organic matter has what experts call native fertility. The more richly organic a soil is, the greater is its built-in fertility. (We improve this when we add additional organic matter.) This is quite different from the kind of fertility that we get by adding fertilizer products. Native fertility is available for plants to use over a long period of years, even over a period of neglect. Specific plants require different minerals and nutrients in the soil, and use up more of one type of mineral in the soil than others. For this reason, we often use fertilizers that are higher in one kind of nutrient than in another. The most important thing to remember about soil fertility is: FEED THE SOIL, NOT THE PLANT You should not rely on this native or fertility reserve for the regular nutrition of a non-native turf lawn. This is particularly important with newer, more vigorous grass varieties. If we fertilize improperly or not at all, the grass will have to depend on the soil's natural fertility and will soon use it up. Present-day feeding recommendations for quality turf call for applying more nitrogen than recommended for home lawns in 1945. However, do not add fertilizer to your soil unless you know that your soil needs it for the type of turf grass that you are growing, and be sure to consult with your County Extension Agent before applying any chemical on your lawn. Use natural or organic fertilizers when possible to reduce the amount of pollution that may be washed from your lawn into the surface or ground water. The three most important nutrients in a healthy soil are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, often referred to as N, P, and K. The amount of these macronutrients present in a healthy soil is reported in the soil test analysis. In a fertilizer, these percentages are usually expressed numerically as a percentage of the total contents. A 20-20-20 fertilizer, for instance, has 20 percent each of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, as well as 40 percent of other elements. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 22 The ratio of the three nutrients can be varied to provide specific results. An 18-51-20 mix, for example, is high in phosphorus to promote bloom and is often used in growing ornamental flowers. Fertilizers sometimes provide secondary plant nutrients, (calcium, sulfur, and magnesium), and trace elements (or micronutrients) like boron, chlorine, manganese, iron, zinc, copper, and molybdenum, as well as the three macronutrients. Soil Compaction -- Soil compaction is a by-product of farming in Kentucky. It is caused by excessive tilling of the soil by plows, harrows, discs, or other tools used to break up the clods of dirt into fine particles, which was the accepted method of farming for many years. Breaking the soil into fine particles is part of the reason for the severe erosion that occurred in the Dust Bowl in the 1930’s. Today, farmers are encouraged to use no-till methods that leave the dirt in clods allowing more oxygen to the roots and improving soil drainage. In fact, many farmers plant a crop that enriches the soil, then, rather than plowing the crop under, the roll the crop so that it will lie flat on the field to break down and nourish the soil, and then plant their crop over the nutrient crop. This new method often saves the soil and prevents erosion, as well as increasing soil fertility. Soil compaction results from pressing a given amount of soil into a smaller volume, thereby increasing the soil’s bulk density. Soil compaction alters pore space and distribution, often leading to poor root growth in the compacted layer. If the soil is compacted, it is much harder for plants to put down roots or to grow to its full potential. Soil compaction is also a reason for poor drainage. Rain water will sit on top of the soil, rather than soak down to the roots. The standing water keeps to upper layer of soil moist, and promotes the growth of moss and plant diseases. The best means of reducing soil compaction is to aerate the lawn with a core aerator. Some lawns may need to be aerated three or four times per season. Soil compaction can be a big problem in lawns that were once farmland. The picture above shows the difference in root growth between compact soil and aerated soil. Another method of remedying soil compaction is to add organic materials into the soil. Soil compaction depths in Kentucky usually range from 8 inches to 14 inches, so be prepared to use a lawn tiller to mix the compost, or peat moss into the soil. Don’t break the soil up too thoroughly, however. Small clods are an important way of increasing the oxygen in the soil, and helps prevent future compaction. If you are a home gardener, the best practice is to leave the tiller alone—except for very special occasions. Many lawns have compacted soil, which restricts water and air movement. Annual core aeration removes plugs to break through compacted soil to prevent thatch layers from growing and choking out the lawn. Aeration is one of the best "extras" you can do to maintain high quality, healthy turf. Aeration provides many benefits including: • Helping roots penetrate deeper into the soil. • Opening compact soil allowing more water and oxygen to get to plant roots. • Making fertilization more efficient. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 23 Types of Fertilizers -- Synthetic fertilizers are artificial fertilizers and are also called inorganic or synthesized. These fertilizers are chemically produced, sometimes from petroleum products. Their primary advantage is the standardized content. They are readily available and easy to transport and store. Reliance on artificial fertilizers can lead to depletion of the soil, since they often do not replace trace mineral elements used by lawn grasses and other plants. This can result in fruits and vegetables that are significantly low in nutrition, flowers that don’t bloom well, or grass that fails to thrive. Synthetic supplements also run off or leach from the soil very readily. This can lead to a variety of environmental complications. Synthetic fertilizers are manufactured and often come in pellet or granular form. Organic fertilizers can be naturally occurring substances like worm castings, seaweed, and guano, (bat refuse), or minerals like rock phosphate and limestone. They can be manufactured substances like compost, bone meal, or fish meal. They can even be “green manure”, crops grown solely to add nutrients to the soil. Organic supplements depend on the microbial activity of soil organisms to break them down, which means that nutrients are released over a fairly long time period, resulting in steady plant growth. They generally contain lower concentrations of nutrients than do synthetic supplements, but they do perform several important functions that synthetic kinds do not. Organic fertilizers increase the organic content of the soil, which increases its water-holding capacity. Fewer nutrients are lost to run-off. Water from rain or irrigation is available to plants for a longer period. Organically-derived nutrients are slow to leach from the soil. Blood meal, bone meal, and fish meal are all three natural organic fertilizers that are fairly easy to apply accurately. Organic supplements actually improve the physical structure of the soil. This allows more air to get to plant roots. Organic supplements increase bacterial and fungal activity in the soil, particularly mycorrhizal fungi which make other nutrients more available to plants. Worms, which benefit the soil in many ways, are more likely to be present in organically-fertilized soil. Controlled release, (also called sustained release or timed release), fertilizers distribute nutrients over an extended period of time. They are usually granular in form and are intended for application every three to six months. Organic supplements are naturally slow release, and are better for the soil. Fast release fertilizers make nutrients immediately available to plants, but they are also depleted rapidly. You can actually damage or “burn” plants with fast-release supplements. They are usually water-soluble and intended for application every one to two weeks. If they are diluted sufficiently, they can be applied with every watering. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 24 In addition, the physical form of the supplement can affect the results. Granular and liquid formulations can be applied evenly, allowing distribution to the entire root system. Spikes and pellets concentrate the nutrients in one spot, but they are very convenient to use. Environmental Concerns -- Overuse of chemical fertilizers can lead to surface runoff (particularly phosphorus), into rivers and reservoirs or leaching into groundwater (particularly nitrates). Applying chemical supplements when the ground is waterlogged or the crop is not able to use the chemicals has the same result. This water contamination has caused health concerns in many areas. Excessive nitrogen applications can increase the birth rate, longevity and overall fitness of some garden pests. This will be discussed further in the next section of the guidebook. There are environmental concerns that need to be taken into consideration when using fertilizer. Elements such as nitrogen and phosphorus can get washed into our surface waters and cause algae blooms and excess plant growth. This excess growth in plant material can cause numerous problems, namely the reduction of oxygen which can lead to fish kills. Nitrogen leaching into our ground waters and drinking water supplies is a concern because excess nitrogen in drinking water can contribute to the "blue baby" syndrome in infants less than one year of age. Excesses of minor elements in the soil, such as copper and zinc, can cause problems in crop production. The overuse of fertilizers can cause algae blooms that remove the oxygen from the water, resulting in a fish kill. Any fertilizer in any form, whether it is organic or synthetic, can harm the environment if misused. Whether you're using cow manure or commercial fertilizer, you need to take precautions to protect the environment. There are several things to keep in mind to protect the environment when using fertilizer: 1. Get your soils tested regularly - Soil testing is the only way that you will know what nutrients are in the soil. If you have sufficient amounts of elements such as phosphorus, then there is no need in applying extra phosphorus. The only way that you will know this is by testing the soil. 2. Know the nutrient needs of your lawn grass or ornamental plants - If your turf grass only needs 1/2 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet, then only apply 1/2 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet. Any more than this will not do any good and will most likely not be used. Unused fertilizer can be washed away into lakes, rivers and streams or leached into ground water. Study the plants you're growing and learn about its nutrient needs. Use this knowledge plus information from your soil test to determine the amount of fertilizer to apply. Consult with your native plant provider and have a copy of your soil test results to learn if any additional fertilizers are needed to keep your plants healthy. You can always spot fertilize, as well. 3. Apply at the proper time - Know when your plant needs to be fertilized. There is no need to apply fertilizer when the plant will not use it. Again, this unused fertilizer can be washed away or leached before the plant can use it. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 25 4. Take extra precautions on slopes - Applying fertilizers on slopes can lead to the washing away of nutrients. This is how most of these nutrients wind up into our surface waters. Take precautions to control your runoff from your property. Do not allow your fertilizer to drift onto the streets because this fertilizer will certainly make its way into the storm drains. Above all, control soil erosion. Elements that are tightly held by the soil, make there way into the surface waters on soil that is washed away. Phosphorus is an example of this type of element. Waterways may be protected from fertilizer and pesticides by the use of a natural buffer zone between the lawn and water. 5. If you use organic fertilizer sources, have them tested - Like the soil, the only way that you can know what is in your organic fertilizer source is to have it tested and the only way to know how much organic fertilizer to apply is to know what is in it. The nutrient contents of organic materials vary considerably from lot to lot, therefore information on average contents of individual materials are not always reliable. Be sure of what you are applying, have your organic materials tested, read the label, or inquire from your provider. 6. Apply fertilizers only to healthy plants or reduce the amount to unhealthy plants - An unhealthy plant or in the case of a crop, poor plant stand, is not going to use as much nutrient as a healthy plant. Applying the same amount of fertilizer to an unhealthy plant can lead to unused fertilizer and can also harm the plant. Find out what is causing the problem. Fertilizer may not be the solution and if applied, could lead to polluting the environment. 7. Store your fertilizer materials properly - Keep your fertilizer sources from being washed away by rains. Keep them under a shelter and off of the ground so the nutrients want get caught in rain water runoff. If the fertilizer comes in a plastic bag, leave it in the bag. 8. Plant debris and compost is a source of nutrients - Remember that your plant residue left over from last year, mulch and compost contain plant nutrients. These nutrients can also get into the environment as well. When deciding the amount of fertilizer to apply, take into consideration the nutrients from these sources and reduce the amount of fertilizer that you apply. 9. Break up fertilizer applications on sandy soils - Nutrients leach very readily on sandy soils. If you apply more than the plant can use at the time, one good rain or irrigation can leach the nutrients down below the plant roots before it can use them. On sandy soils, break up fertilizer applications into several smaller applications instead of a few larger applications. 10. Follow up fertilizer applications with a light irrigation - A light irrigation is good to activate the fertilizer, but a heavy rain or irrigation can leach or wash away nutrients. Keep this in mind when applying fertilizer. Protecting the environment concerns all of us. Don't contribute to the problem by misusing fertilizer. Follow the above steps to keep your fertilizer where it belongs, in the plant, not in our surface and ground waters. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 26 Common Fertilizer Myths Some people never fertilize their lawn. However, most turf grasses require fertilization to maintain an attractive, healthy lawn. Even though grass is a natural occurring plant in our environment, even the most common turfgrasses are highly specialized plants. Modern turf grasses have gone through extensive biogenetic engineering in order to be successful. For the most part, properly fertilized lawns are more vigorous, healthier and result in better resistance to environmental stresses, weed invasion, disease infection, and insect infestations. Myth: If some fertilizer is good, then more must be better. -- Heavy fertilizer applications result in excessive growth, which can cause a host of other problems. You will need to mow more often, increasing general maintenance. It also increase susceptibility and occurrence of some lawn diseases, and can cause additional thatch buildup. Too much fertilizer may actually harm or even kill the grass. If too much fertilizer is applied during periods of slow growth or dormancy, it can stress the turfgrass even more. Lawn fertilizer applications should coincide with periods of natural turfgrass growth. Myth – A combination of fertilizer and herbicides get the job done faster and cheaper. -- This is mostly true, but only if your lawn has a lot of weeds. If your lawn is fairly weed-free, there's no need to apply herbicide, "just in case." It is MUCH better to spot treat the weeds with herbicide, reducing the amounts use. Both fertilizers and herbicides should only be applied when needed. Fertilizer should only be applied during the heavy growth seasons. If proper timing is ignored, combination products may have minimal effect. Myth – Fertilizer really isn’t needed to maintain a healthy lawn. -- Turfgrass needs a low-level of supplemental nutrients to remain healthy. A lawn is not an altogether natural environment for grass, even though turfgrass has been biologically engineered for that purpose. Turfgrass is the ideal plant to be cut regularly to keep that soft, attractive looking appearance, when clippings are collected after each mowing the soil is robbed of important nutrients that could have been recycled back into the soil. Leaving your clippings on the lawn goes a long way toward helping the soil and the lawn recover nutrients. Most lawns are grown on compacted, urban soils that are not ideal for good turf growth. Nutrient supplements in the form of fertilizer are needed as supplements to keep your lawn doing what it should be doing best: growing healthy blades of grass and deep, deep root systems. Homeowners can reduce the amount and frequency of applying fertilizers by mulching their grass clippings as they mow! Save time and energy by leaving the grass clippings on the lawn. Myth – Fertilizer is plant food. What is good for the grass is also good for the shrubs and flowers. -First, fertilizers are not really ‘plant food’. Plants manufacture their own food by turning sunlight into nutrients through photosynthesis. Fertilizers are just supplemental elements and nutrients that plants require in making that conversion. Common lawn fertilizers contain a balance of nutrients designed to provide the right proportion of elements and minerals specifically for turfgrass. Fertilizers for lawns should not be used on flowers, vegetables, or fruiting plants unless those plants require a similar ratio of nutrients, which is unlikely. Fertilizers for established lawns are normally high in nitrogen. When used on flowering plants, these products might produce lush foliage at the expense of no flowers. Some weed and feed products should never be used on vegetables or trees. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 27 And finally, you have a responsibility to understand how to use the products you buy and use, whether they're for your lawn and landscape, your automobile, or inside your home. Manufacturers are under strict government control, which is the reason for the explanatory labels on these products. ALWAYS READ THE LABEL before using any chemical, and follow the directions. Those warnings are a contract between you and the manufacturer. By purchasing the product, you are agreeing to be bound by that contract. Myth - All fertilizers contain the same chemicals, so use whatever is on sale or cheapest. -- Lawn fertilizers should be selected according to the heaviest growing season of the grass, and whether or not the lawn is established or newly seeded. Lawn fertilizers should contain both slow- and fast-release nitrogen. The slow-release nitrogen should be 30% — 50% of the total nitrogen. This provides nitrogen for even, seasonal growth. The fast-release nitrogen is for quick greening. Quality fertilizers have uniform particle size for uniform application. Trace elements are another consideration. Most namebrand fertilizers contain minute quantities of minerals and other chemical elements that are also important to healthy turfgrass development. Myth - Organic fertilizers are better. - If you have a planned program of developing a natural lawn, then use the organic fertilizers, but remember that it is just part of the environmentally friendly lawn care program. A healthy, organically grown turfgrass requires insect activity, microbial action in the soils, and the natural fertilizer elements that you might apply. You can't just add fertilizers labeled "organic" without the other parts of the program for it to be successful. Be very careful using any pesticides which can alter the natural balance of your soil. Caring for your lawn in an environmentally friendly way Picture a healthy green lawn: perfect for lounging, great for ball games and cookouts, a real asset to your home. Did you know that your lawn—and how you take care of it—can also help the environment? Healthy grass provides feeding ground for birds, who find it a rich source of insects, worms, and other food. Thick grass prevents soil erosion, filters contaminants from rainwater, and absorbs many types of airborne pollutants, like dust and soot. Grass is also highly efficient at converting carbon dioxide to oxygen, a process that helps clean the air. You don’t have to be an expert to grow a healthy lawn. Just keep in mind that the secret is to work with nature. This means creating conditions for grass to thrive and resist damage from weeds, disease, and insect pests. It means setting realistic goals for your lawn, whether you, or a professional lawn care service, will be doing the work. And, if you choose to use pesticides, it means using them with care so as to get the most benefit and reduce risks. Caring for your lawn in an environmentally sensible way can have a bigger impact than you might think. Your lawn is only a small piece of land, but all the lawns in your neighborhood cover a lot of ground. That means that you and your lawn care activities, along with everyone else’s can make a big difference to the environment, and that is why taking care of the environment begins in our own backyards. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care A beautiful lawn starts with creating careful conditions for grass, flowers, trees, and shrubs to thrive in a natural environment. Page 28 Working with Nature: A Preventative Health Care Program for your Lawn To start, think about lawn care as a preventative health care program, like one you would use to keep up your own health. The idea is to prevent problems from occurring so you don’t have to treat them. As they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Your lawn care program should be tailored to local conditions—the amount of rainfall you get, and the type of soil you have. Most of these subjects will be discussed further. Develop Healthy Soil -- Good soil is the foundation of a healthy lawn. To grow well, your lawn needs soil with good texture, some key nutrients, and the right pH, or acidity/alkalinity balance. Start by checking the texture of your soil to see whether it’s heavy with clay, light and sandy, or somewhere in between. Lawns grow best in soils that have a mix of clay, silt, and sand. Whatever soil type you have, you can probably improve it by periodically adding organic matter like compost, manure, or grass clippings. Organic matter helps to lighten a predominantly clay soil and it helps sandy soil retain water and nutrients. Also check to see if your soil is packed down from heavy traffic or high clay content. To loosen compacted soil, some lawns may need to be aerated several times a year. This process involves pulling out plugs of soil to create air spaces so water and nutrients can again penetrate to the grass roots. Also, many lawns need to be fertilized every year, because they need more nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium than soils usually contain to maintain a stand of turf grasses. These three elements are the primary ingredients found in most lawn fertilizers, which will be discussed later. It is best to use a slow-release fertilizer, and it is important not to over-fertilize. Clay soils – those high in clay-sized particles— can present many problems for gardeners. Grass is best able to absorb nutrients in a slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0. Soil that is too acidic can be “sweetened” with lime; soil that is not acid enough can be made “sour” by adding sulfur. Have your soil tested periodically to see whether it needs more organic matter or the pH adjusted. The Jefferson County Extension Office, (502-569-2344), or local nursery can provide soil testing or soil kits for testing for a small fee/low cost. If a professional lawn service takes care of your lawn, make sure it takes these same steps to develop good soil. You can rebuild your soil with a layer of compost after aeration. Compost adds lots of nutrients to the soil and keeps the top layer, on which most plants rely, high in organic content. More information about soil testing and pH will be discussed later. Remember: Feed the soil, not the plant! Choose a grass type that thrives in your climate. -- The right type of grass—one that suits your needs and likes the local weather—will always give better results. New grass mixtures come out on the market every year. Ask your county extension agent or your local nursery for recommendations. This guide lists various types of turfgrass that are recommended for lawns in Kentucky. This will be discussed further. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 29 Mow high, often, and with sharp blades. -- Keeping your lawn a bit long will produce stronger, healthier grass with fewer pest problems. A lawn’s ideal length will vary with the type of grass, but many turf grass species are healthiest when kept between 2½ to 3½ inches. It’s also important to mow with sharp blades to prevent tearing and injuring the grass. With regular turf grasses, it is best to mow often. The rule of thumb is to mow often enough that you never cut more than 1/3 of the height of the grass blades. Leave short clippings on the grass, where they recycle nitrogen. Cordless electric mulching mower Mulching mowers are the best type to use when leaving grass clippings on the lawn. Electric mowers are the best way to reduce pollution from hydrocarbons, both into the atmosphere and subsequently into the groundwater and surface water. Some mowing tips: • Don't cut your grass too short, particular for cool season grasses. Higher heights usually provide for a deeper root system, looks better, and is less likely to have weeds invading, particularly crabgrass. • Don't remove any more than one third of the grass leaf at any one cutting. If circumstances arise that a lawn gets too tall and you just have to lop off a bunch to get caught up, bite the bullet and break it down into several mowings to get caught up with 3 or so days between cuttings. • Try to avoid mowing when the grass is wet. • When mowing only a third with each cutting, you can safely leave clippings that will quickly decompose and add nutrients back into the soil. Contrary to popular opinion, grass clippings do not add to thatch buildup. Grass blades are made up of about 75% water, and lower the need for fertilizer application. • Mow your lawn in a different direction with each mowing, especially with lawns of shorter grass types. Altering the direction ensures a more even cut since grass blades will grow more erect and less likely to develop into a set pattern. • Keep your mower's blade sharp, which means having it sharpened several times during the mowing season. Keep several blades around so you'll always have a sharp one on hand. • Don't forget to change your mower's oil at least once during the mowing season. Collect the oil and recycle it! • If you didn't drain your gas tank in the fall, or use a fuel stabilizer, don't use that old gas, it can cause a number of problems, including increased air and water pollution. Better to use fresh gasoline to begin the new mowing season. • In the fall continue mowing as long as the grass is growing. With falling temperatures, begin to drop the mowing height and make the last mowing around 2". This helps prevent grass from lying over or matting during the winter and becoming susceptible to disease. It also makes it easier to rake or remove leaves in the fall. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 30 Table 3 below discusses some recommended mowing heights for different turf grasses. Table 3 – Best Mowing Height for Some Turf Grasses Type of Grass Set Your Mowing Blade at: Mow When It Reaches: Kentucky Bluegrass 3” 3.5” – 4” Perennial Rye Grass 3” 3.5” – 4” Tall Fescue 3 ½” 4” Fine Fescue 3” 3.5” – 4” 3 ½” 3.5” – 4” 3” 3.5” – 4” 2.5” 3” – 3.5” Buffalo Grass Bermuda Zoysia Selecting the right lawn mower is an important purchase. Just because a machine cuts grass doesn't mean that it's the best lawn mower for you. Expect to pay between $120 — $700 for non-riding models, and much more for riding models. • Decide between manual, gas or electric. Manuals or push reel mowers, work great for very small lawns. Electric mowers that must be connected to an outlet have a range of about 100' with extension cords. Battery operated mowers can go further, but may require more frequent recharging. Usually, battery electric mowers last about one hour, but are reasonably priced. Manual push reel mowers are less expensive to purchase with minimal noise and no pollution whatsoever. Select a push reel mower, (cuts with a scissor-like action of rotating blades passing over a stationary knife), if you have a small lawn. They do require extensive manual exertion and you absolutely can't let the grass get tall between cuttings. Gas mowers are noisier (90 decibels), cost more to run, and pollute the air. However, they handle medium large lawns exceptionally well. They require yearly maintenance to change oil, plugs, and filters. Usually, they range from 3.5 — 7 horsepower. Electric mowers are quieter, (65 — 85 decibels), with less apparent air pollution. These mowers usually range from 6 — 12 amps. You can choose one with a cord, (be careful not to cut the cord while mowing!), or a battery operated mower. Electric start features can be very handy, but cost about $100 more. New gas mowers with the pulltype recoil rope will usually start with one or two pulls, if kept well-tuned. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Electric lawn mowers reduce pollution. Page 31 • Calculate the size of lawn you'll be cutting. Electric mowers typically have smaller cutting widths, about 14" — 18". Gas mowers range from 18" — 22" in mowing width. • Understand how thick and robust your grass is. Lawns with very thick, fast growing turf require more powerful mowers. For gas mowers, it means more horsepower. For electric it means more amps. • Self-propelled mowers put power to the wheels. Consider self-propelled mowers if your lawn is hilly, sloping or large. There are various types that go from 1 speed to multi-speeds and some that go with you. At times, these mowers may require manhandling to maneuver around objects in the lawn, and the self-propulsion can be a handicap. What to look for when buying a mower -• Cast-aluminum housings, known as decks, won't rust but they cost more than stamped-steel decks. • Premium engine brands can add as much as $200 to the price. • Side discharge is all right if you don't bag, or have allergies. Bags that attach on the side make it difficult to maneuver around items such as bushes, trees, etc. • Rear discharge is preferred if you do bag on occasion, such as when removing leaves from the lawn. • Mulching mowers chop grass blades into small bits— this works great if you don't cut the lawn wet and the grass isn't too tall. Consider doing both: grass recycling and grass mulching. Recycle clippings to a compost pile during the spring and mulch the clippings back into the lawn during the summer months with growth rates are typically slower. • If you are looking at self-propelled models, rear wheel drives on self-propelled mowers gives better traction for hills and large areas. Front wheel drive offers easier maneuvering in small yards. More about mulching mowers -- Mulching lawn mowers are equipped with a deck and blade that provides multiple chops to the turf blades. There is no immediate discharge of cut grass blades so they remain inside the mowing chamber to be repeatedly chopped until they fall to the ground as the mower rolls over the lawn. With a regular mower blade on a typical mower you have a 1" — 2" leaf blade lying on the grass after being cut. The problem with these long blades is that they don't filter down between growing grass blades to the soil where they can decompose quickly. Instead they sit on top, dry out in the sun and generally look bad. Mulching mowers re-cut the grass multiple times reducing its overall length to about 3/8" — 1/2" which falls to the soil's surface and decompose. How this is done is with a bit of aeronautics and restriction. By removing the outlet the grass blades would normally be discharged through, causes the cut grass blades to remain inside the mowers deck cavity. The blade and deck have some slight modifications that cause the long grass blades to circulate upward instead of down and out. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 32 As the mower propels forward, more and more blades are being cut until there is no room left in the circulating chamber. This forces the finely cut blades down into the mown lawn and onto the soil. Wet or damp lawns reduce the efficiency of this design by making the grass blades more likely to stick together and less likely to float around inside the chamber. This results in the unattractive clumping of cut grass. Therefore, for mulching mowers it's important to only mow completely dry lawns, and to strictly follow the 1/3 rule where you're only removing no more than 1/3 of a blade of grass during one mowing. • Mulching mowers require more frequent blade sharpening as they are doing 2x 3x 4x more cutting that a regular blade. • Mowing the grass about 1/2" taller than normal will aid in hiding the mulched clippings. • Reduce the forward speed slightly for improved results. This provides a little more time for the blades to do their job. • Mulching lawn mowers return many nutrients back to the soil. In time this will produce a healthier lawn, with less fertilizer being required. • Mulching, like composting, reduces the amount of material going to landfills. Safe Mowing Tips – The center for Childhood Safety offers these tips for safe lawn mowing: • Keep children and pets out of the yard while mowing. • Do a walk-through of the area before you begin mowing. Clear the area of large sticks or other debris. • Wear clothing that offers some protection, like sturdy shoes with non-slip soles to provide good traction. Wear eye protection, like glasses, safety glasses, or goggles, while mowing. • Read the operating guide for your mower. Make sure you understand all of its safety features prior to use. Make sure your mower has a "deadman" control that stops the mower if you let go of the handle. Do not disable this or other safety features of your mower. • Do not cut the lawn when it's raining, lightning, or when the grass is slippery. • Adolescents should be at least 12 years of age before they operate lawn-mowing equipment. Discuss lawn mower safety with all of your children. • Never allow young children to ride alone on a riding mower. • Caution adolescents who are operating lawn-mowing equipment to avoid carelessly placing hands near power blades. Do not clean the grass exit with your hands. • Do not push a lawn mower onto the pavement. The lawn keeps objects from being hurled at a high speed. On the pavement, there is no such protection. • Make sure your mower is in good working condition at all times. • Do not operate a mower when under the influence of alcohol or other drugs that impair judgment. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 33 Precautions reduce the risks of yard work -Parents should decide when their child is ready to operate a lawnmower. Make sure the child is strong enough to control the mower without difficulty. Train children to operate the mower safely. Do not allow anyone who tends to disobey rules or take unnecessary risks to operate the mower. Supervise children during the first few minutes of mowing and during refueling and maintenance tasks. Children should take precautions to maintain safety while mowing. They should read and understand owner's manuals for any machinery they are using. Common sense guidelines: -• Users should know what the controls do and how to operate them. • Users should know how to stop the mower quickly • Avoid rotating blades and never put hand into the mowing chamber without first turning off the machine, no matter what built-in safety controls are in place. • Keep protective shields in place to protect against thrown objects. Repair machines when these shields become worn or damaged. • Wear protective clothing, including long pants, eye protection and sturdy shoes • Always refuel outdoors in a well-ventilated area with the engine turned off. • Always inspect the area to be mowed prior to actually starting the equipment. Remove loose objects and clear the area of small children and pets. Mower Blade Sharpening – A dull mower blade doesn't cut grass blades— it rips through the leaves leaving jagged edges that turn brown and makes the grass vulnerable to disease. A sharp blade shears off excess grass and produces a cut tip that heals faster and imposes less stress. How often the mower blade needs sharpening depends on the size of your lawn, how often you mow, and how much debris your lawn normally contains (fallen branches under a silver maple tree definitely takes the edge off a mower blade). You should plan on doing the job at least every 4 — 6 weeks. Professional mowers normally sharpen their blades every day at the end of their shift. So that's about 8 hours of mowing. Sharpening options – One option is to just buy a new blade each time it needs sharpening. Blades aren't that expensive and it may be just easier for some to replace. 1. Have the blade sharpened by a professional mower mechanic. 2. Sharpen it yourself. 3. A combination of the above. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 34 Sharpening it yourself: ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE SPARK PLUG WIRE BEFORE WORKING ON THE MACHINE. IN REMOVING THE MOWER BLADE IT'S VERY EASY FOR THE MOWER TO START ON ITS OWN!!! 1. Drain the gas and disconnect the spark plug wire in your power mower so the motor doesn't turn over while you're working. 2. Tilt the mower on its side, and wedge a block of wood between the blade and the mower deck to keep the blade from turning. You can also buy a device called a Blade Buster that locks the blade in place while you work on the mower. 3. Clean built-up debris from the underside of the mower deck with a putty-knife. 4. To make the nut removal easier, squirt a few drops of penetrating oil on the nut that holds the blade to the engine shaft. Give it 15 minutes to work its way into the threads. 5. Use an adjustable wrench or socket wrench to remove the bolt from the center of the blade. Turn the nut in the same direction you would to remove a jar lid, (counter clockwise). 6. Mark the blade on the bottom so you can install it properly again. Also note the sequence of washers and clamps as they come off the shaft. Set them aside in that precise order so they can be reassembled properly. 7. Clamp the blade in a bench vise or with a block of wood and a cclamp. 8. Check both sides of the edges for nicks. Remove the nicks using a flat medium file. Lightly file the flat side of the cutting edge to remove any nicks or burrs, keeping the file as parallel as possible. DO NOT TRY TO PUT A BEVEL ON THE FLAT SIDE OF THE BLADE. 9. Move the medium-toothed file toward the cutting edge with smooth, even strokes. Counting the number of strokes you make, follow the original bevel of the blade closely. 10. Make the same number of strokes on each edge. If you take more metal off one side than the other, the blade will be out of balance. Out-of-balance blades cut unevenly and cause excess mower vibration that may damage the engine. 11. Test the balance by resting the blade on a dowel or the handle of a screwdriver. If one side points up, sharpen the other until the blade lies flat. (Or use a blade balancer, available at garden centers and hardware stores.) More Options -- Keep 2 or 3 extra blades on hand and have them all professionally sharpened during your spring tune-up. Then swap them out using a regular maintenance schedule based on the 8 hour rule. Cracked, badly nicked or bent blades should be replaced. DO NOT TRY TO STRAIGHTEN A BENT BLADE. DO NOT USE A BENT OR CRACKED BLADE. Precautions -- Never touch the blades of any power mower until the spark plug is completely disconnected. Just a few drops of gas in the tank could be enough to make the mower's engine kick over when you move the blade. Use extreme caution in reinstalling a sharpened blade. If possible use work gloves, a slip of the wrench when tightening can cause a serious cut. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 35 Water deeply, but not too often. -- Watering properly will help your lawn grow deep roots that make it stronger and less vulnerable to drought. It is best to water only when the lawn really needs it, and then to water slowly and deeply. Water only when the lawn begins to wilt from dryness—when the color dulls and footprints stay compressed for more than a few seconds. Try to water your lawn in a way that imitates a slow, soaking rain by using trickle irrigation, soaker hoses, or other methods. Try to water in the early morning, especially during hot summer months, to reduce evaporation. You can place a pie plate in the line of the spray to measure how much water has been applied-usually about ½ to 1 inch of water is the best for your lawn. A soaker hose is an efficient method of watering the lawn Different turf grasses have different water requirements, but it is always better to water heavily at infrequent intervals. One inch of water will normally soak into the soil to a depth of 4” to 6”, which allows the water to reach deep into the root system. Soil types vary in speed at which water will soak in. If you know your soil type, use the following table as a general guide to watering. (Soil test kits and other soil testing information will be discussed later.) Table 4 – Infiltration Rates for Different Soil Types Soil Type Infiltration in Inch Per Hour Time for 1 Inch to Soak In Sand 2.0 inches 0.5 hours Sandy Loam 1.0 inches 1 hour 0.5 inches – 5/8 inch 2 hours Silt Loam 0.4 inches – ½ inch 2 hours, 15 minutes Clay Loam 0.3 inches – 3/8 inch 3 hours, 20 minutes 0.2 inches – ¼ inch 5 hours Loam Clay No matter what type of irrigation or watering system you use on your lawn, check it and adjust it to the soil’s absorption rate. A good rule of thumb is to apply water at a rate equal to or slightly less than the soil ability to absorb it. Most irrigation systems apply water faster than the soil can absorb it. Also, don't forget to check if the system is applying water uniformly! Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 36 The best way to check both of these functions is to set out a series of straight-side, flat-bottom cans for an in-ground system or a few cans for a movable sprinkler system. Run the watering system for 30 minutes and measure the amount of water collected. After watering, use a ruler to measure the depth of the water applied. You can determine the length of time needed to apply one inch of water with a little simple math. If you know the soil type, check the chart above to figure how long the system needs to run in order to soak the lawn to a desired depth of 4 to 6 inches. Remember to stop the watering for an interval if you see run-off occurring. Measure the depth of the water applied from watering by using straight sided cans, or a glass. Hilly or sloping areas may require a soaker hose to reduce run-off and allow better penetration into the soil. Soakers apply water slowly over a small area. Here are some Best Management Tips on watering your lawn: • The best times to water your lawn are early morning or early evening, when there is generally less wind and heat. Watering then allows for less evaporation into the air, greater penetration into the soil, and less run-off. • Let the lawn completely dry out between watering intervals. Most lawn grasses can tolerate dryer conditions over a reasonable period of time. Water only when a probe or screwdriver is difficult to push into the ground or shows that the soil is dry 4 to 6 inches down. • Interrupt watering when puddles or run-off occur on the soil. Allow water to penetrate into the soil before resuming watering. Soil types vary in the speed at which water will soak into them, (see chart above). Generally speaking, most watering systems apply water faster than it can be absorbed by the soil. Sloping areas are particularly prone to run-off. • Keep a newly seeded or sprigged lawn moist, but not soaked, during the germination process. Too much water can cause poor germination and seedling disease. A light mulch, (thin layer of potting soil or compost), over the seed or sprigs will help keep the soil moist. As a new lawn begins to grow, lower the frequency of watering and increase the amount of water. After 4 to 6 weeks, treat the new lawn as an established lawn. • If you have a newly sodded lawn, soak it completely after placement, for a period of about 2 weeks. This allows the root system to become firmly established in the soil. Soaking may require watering every day or two. After a couple of weeks, water the sod as an established lawn. • Spread the water uniformly across the lawn. Sprinklers vary in distribution patterns, and require spray overlap for uniform coverage. Placing coffee cans or similar straight-sided containers on the lawn can help measure water application rates. Avoid flooding areas, or missing other spots. On heavy clay soils and slopes, watch for excessive runoff; it may be necessary to apply the water in several applications to allow for adequate penetration. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 37 • Avoid overwatering - Use tin cans or straight sided glasses placed in the lawn to measure how much water you're applying. Overwatering makes plants prone to pests and adds to stormwater runoff, which can pollute the groundwater and surface water. By choosing and operating a watering system correctly, you can reduce insect and disease problems and maintenance requirements. For example, the more you water your lawn, the faster it grows and the more it needs to be mowed. • Hold off watering after fertilization and hold off fertilizing if heavy rains are expected. To reduce the possibility of having fertilizer wash into the groundwater/surface water system, don't water heavily soon after fertilizing. Use light waterings to give the fertilizer the opportunity to be absorbed by the soil. Also, if heavy rains are in the forecast, hold off fertilizing until the heavy rains have passed. • Monitor rainfall. Don't water the lawn if rains are expected soon. Keep track of rainfall for the week. The guide of about 1" of water per week is only a guide. If your lawn doesn't get that 1" of water, it's not going to die. Correct thatch build-up. -- When thatch gets too thick—deeper than ½ inch—it prevents water and nutrients from penetrating to the soil and grass roots. Some grasses tend to form a thick layer of thatch, while overuse use of fertilizers can also create a heavy layer of thatch. You can reduce thatch by raking the lawn or using a machine that slices through the thatch. Sprinkling a thin layer of topsoil or compost over the lawn will also help. Thatch in lawns is often misunderstood; both its cause and control. Some lawns have serious thatch problems while others do not. Thatch is a layer of living and dead organic matter that occurs between the green matter and the soil surface. Excessive thatch (over 1/2" thick) creates an environment favorable for pests and disease and an unfavorable growing environment for grass roots, plus, it can interfere with some lawn care practices. Thatch is a building up dead roots, lawn debris and dead turfgrass crowns. It accumulates as these plant parts buildup faster than they breakdown. Thatch problems are due to a combination of biological, cultural, and environmental factors. Cultural practices can have a big impact on thatch. For example, heavy nitrogen fertilizer applications or over-watering frequently contribute to thatch, because they cause the lawn to grow excessively fast. Avoid over-fertilizing and over-watering! Despite popular belief, short clippings dropped on the lawn after mowing are not the cause of thatch buildup. Clippings are very high in water content and breakdown rapidly when returned to lawns after mowing, assuming lawns are mowed on a regular basis (not removing more than one-third of the leaf blade). As thatch levels accumulate to greater than 1/2", lawn problems may begin, and the thatch needs to be controlled. Thatch may be torn out with a dethatcher or vertical mower, but will most likely return unless the cause is corrected. Mechanical dethatching is also very destructive to the lawn because roots are in thatch instead of soil, so plants tear out easily. Overseeding is usually required afterwards. For this reason, it's best to tear out thatch in early fall for optimum reseeding timing. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Measuring the depth of thatch accurately may require the use of a coring tool to be accurate. Page 38 Core aeration, followed by topdressing, (applying additional soil or compost), are 2 methods that will generally correct the reasons thatch is accumulating. Core aeration machines will pull up small soil cores to the surface that are left there to act like topdressing. The holes created help solve problems such as compaction or poor drainage, as well. Topdressing is simply adding a thin layer, (1/8" — 1/4"), of compatible soil, potting soil, or compost over the thatch, which adds microorganisms to help in the breakdown process. Aeration equipment can be rented or your local professional lawn care provider can usually provide this service. If you think you want to do-it-yourself, consider that this piece of equipment weighs about 200 pounds, and requires extensive manhandling to operate. Usually, the minimum rental time is 4 hours and it may cost more than having a professional do it for you. Aeration is an excellent lawn practice with many benefits, as it helps solve soil problems that in turn lead to better root systems and healthier lawns. Aerate in spring or fall, (fall is generally the preferred time), making sure adequate moisture exists in the soil. Make two trips over the lawn, the second perpendicular to the first. An average of 15 to 20 aeration holes per square foot is suggested. Cores should remain on the surface and allowed to air dry. These cores act as topdressing that helps degrade thatch. Additional topdressing material could be added after core aeration if desired. Soil temperature is the best indication of when to aerate. Studies have shown that for cool season grasses in particular, soil temperatures in the 50o — 65o range is the ideal time to aerate a lawn. It is when temperatures are in this range that grass roots can grow as much as 1" a week. Aggressive core aeration will promote healthy root development by providing an oxygen-rich environment, plus it allows more water into the soil at an important time in the roots development cycle. Aerating your lawn is a good method of fighting both compaction and thatch buildup. Other dethatching/aerating tips • The best time to dethatch a cool-season lawn is early fall or early spring; for a warm-season lawn, early summer. • You can use a thatch rake, a sharp-tined rake that rips the thatch out of your lawn— but using one on a large lawn is a very big job. A better solution is to rent a power dethatcher, which has rotary tines on the bottom. This is a tool that will make short work of dethatching. • When the task is finished, your lawn will look terrible, but don't panic. It's supposed to look that way. Now you have to rake up all the debris, water and feed the lawn— and wait 3 — 4 weeks. (Some people like to overseed for quicker fill-in, but it's up to you.) Dethatching is a hard treatment for a lawn. You therefore want to do it at a time during the year when the lawn is less stressed by environmental conditions and more likely to recover rapidly after the detaching process. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 39 Set realistic goals. -- Did you know that a lawn with 15% weeds can look practically weed-free to the average observer? Even a healthy lawn is likely to have some weeds or insect pests. It will also have beneficial insects and other organisms that help keep pests under control. Also realize that some areas of your lawn are just not conducive to growing grass. Use a ground cover or mulch instead. The best way to complete a preventative health care system for your lawn is to develop a comprehensive plan for your property. The important point is to think outside the usual green box. Even if you don't know the difference between a Japanese Maple and Japanese Yew, you can do things differently. You can develop a plan for your lawn that will prevent disease and pests, reduce pollution sources, and create an environment that is beautiful and healthy. Fertilizers The major goal of turfgrass management programs is produce attractive turf that is healthy, and able to withstand the rigors of its intended use. Fertilization is one of the most basic and important components of an environmentally friendly turfgrass management program. Turf fertilization contributes greatly to lawn color, density, uniformity, and growth. Properly fertilized grass can compete with weeds and is able recover from damage caused by environmental stresses faster than improperly fertilized lawns. When developing a turf fertilization program, a number of factors need to be considered. These factors include: • • Minerals required for turf growth and development; • • Natural soil fertility; • • Fertilizer selection; • • Turfgrass species, desired quality, and use; • • Environmental and management conditions; and • • Application schedule. Turfgrass minerals -- Turfgrasses require sixteen chemical elements for growth and development. These elements can be divided into two main groups based on where they are obtained by turf plants. The first group, carbon (C), hydrogen (H), and oxygen (O), is obtained from atmospheric carbon dioxide and water. These elements comprise most of the turfgrass plant. The second group is minerals taken from the soil or fertilizer applications. This group can further be divided into three sub-groups based on the quantities used by turf plants. The macro nutrients nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) are used in relatively large quantities by turfgrasses. The secondary nutrients, sulfur (S), calcium (Ca), and magnesium (Mg), are used in somewhat smaller amounts, and the micro nutrients iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), copper (Cu), molybdenum (Mo), boron (B), and chlorine (Cl) are used in the smallest amounts Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Read the fertilizer label to learn what mineral elements are included within the fertilizer. Page 40 Of these mineral elements, nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, sulfur, and iron are most commonly applied in supplemental form to the lawn. Soil Tests -- Determine the natural fertility of the growing site by testing the soil—this is the first step in developing a turfgrass fertility program, and has been discussed. Knowing the fertility conditions allows you to make informed decisions regarding other aspects of turf fertilization such as fertilizer application rates and frequencies. Soil pH adjustment -- The optimum soil pH level for turfgrass growth is 6.0 — 7.0, indicating soil conditions that are slightly acidic. Slightly acidic soil reaction is desirable because it is at this pH that most soil nutrients are most available to growing plants. Over time, the leaching of acidic materials in the soil and applying acidifying fertilizers tends to gradually reduce the pH. Conversely, irrigation water tends to add bases (calcium, magnesium, potassium, and sodium) that gradually increase the pH level. Periodic soil tests are the only way to monitor changes. Alkaline soils (when pH is above 7.0) are not desirable for turfgrass growth because of the reduced availability of plant nutrients. An alkaline soil problem can sometimes be corrected by applying elemental sulfur according to the directions for application. Individual applications of elemental sulfur on established turf should not exceed 5 pounds per 1,000 square feet. The best time for such applications is in the spring or fall, preferably in conjunction with core aeration. Sulfur reacts slowly, so retest soil pH after 6 — 12 months to measure changes. Unfortunately, the addition of sulfur may not lower the pH in all soils; some soils are highly buffered and resist attempts to lower the pH. Attempting to lower the pH rapidly with acidifying materials on established turf can cause problems. One problem is an excess buildup of soluble salts at levels harmful to turfgrass. A slow, gradual change is best to protect turfgrasses. Contact your County Extension agent or Soil and Water Conservation District to learn more about pH adjustments to your soil. Pink hydrangeas indicate an alkaline soil. Another problem is deterioration of soil tilth, (the physical condition of soil, especially ease of tillage and suitability for root penetration). If hard water is used for irrigation purposes, it may neutralize or partially reduce the acidifying effect of sulfur applications. Acidifying fertilizers such as ammonium sulfate can be used in fertilization programs to offset the alkalinity of irrigation water. Excessively acidic soils (when pH is below 6.0) can be amended by adding agricultural limestone. Like sulfur, the amount to add depends on soil type and the desired change. To be effective, sulfur or limestone should be incorporated thoroughly into the soil by tilling. Avoid using slaked lime and burned lime because they are dangerous to handle. Also, remember to till as little as possible, in order to prevent future compaction of the soil. Fertilizer selection -- Fertilizer analysis is the percentage, by weight, of nitrogen (N), available phosphoric acid or phosphate (P2O5), and water-soluble potash (K2O) and is represented by the three numbers on fertilizer packages. For example, if you purchase a 50-pound bag of fertilizer with the three numbers being 18-6-12, that means you are purchasing nine pounds of nitrogen, three pounds of available phosphoric acid, and 6 pounds of water-soluble potash. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 41 Other mineral nutrients can be present in the fertilizer and are normally shown on the back of the package. Sulfur, iron, calcium, and magnesium are possible examples of mineral nutrients that may be present. Fertilizer ratio is the proportion of nitrogen, available phosphoric acid, and water-soluble potash in the package. For instance, in the previous example, there are three parts of nitrogen to one part of phosphoric acid to two parts of potash. This fertilizer’s ratio is 3:1:2. In a fertilizer with an analysis of 10-10-10, the ratio is 1:1:1, and in a fertilizer with an analysis of 20-5-10, the ratio is 4:1:2. This information is useful because it is often recommended that fertilizers with a 3:1:2, 4:1:2, or 5:1:2 ratio be used as general-purpose turf fertilizers. Nitrogen -- Nitrogen is the most important element in turfgrass culture because it is present in larger percentages than other minerals in turf tissues. This large quantity of nitrogen is used by turf for the formation of chlorophyll, a substance necessary for photosynthesis. Nitrogen also comprises portions of plant proteins, amino acids, enzymes, and vitamins. Obviously nitrogen is important for turf development and health. Nitrogen is absorbed by turf plants primarily in the nitrate (NO3-) form, although the ammonium form (NH4+) can also be taken in by the plants. Read the label to know the amount of nitrogen that the fertilizer contains. Nitrogen fertilization is also important for turfgrasses because it elicits the strongest growth response of any mineral element. Nitrogen mineral fertilization is often used to enhance green color and increase or maintain high density, both of which improve turf appearance. Response to nitrogen fertilization can be quick; under Cool Season Turfgrass Nutrients -- For cool-season turfgrasses, mineral nutrients should be supplied to correspond to the active periods of growth in the spring and autumn. In fact, some turf managers believe that 1/2 or more of the annual fertilizer application should be made after September 1 each year to take advantage of the active growth that occurs in cool periods. Fertilizing in autumn helps turf plants recover from summer and store mineral nutrients for use during the following season’s growth. Finally, fertilizing at the time of cultivation (such as aeration or dethatching) can help the turf recover more readily. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 42 Warm Season Turfgrass Nutrients -- Warm-season turfgrasses (such as Zoysia grass, Bermuda grass, and buffalo grass) grow actively when temperatures are warmer, usually from mid-spring through mid-fall depending on latitude. Warm-season grasses usually are fertilized at least once per year in the spring at the initiation of growth. Successive applications can be made monthly during active growth. Types of Fertilizers -- Synthetic fertilizers are artificial fertilizers and are also called inorganic or synthesized. These fertilizers are chemically produced, sometimes from petroleum products. Their primary advantage is the standardized content. They are readily available and easy to transport and store. Reliance on artificial fertilizers can lead to depletion of the soil, since they often do not replace trace mineral elements used by lawn grasses and other plants. This can result in fruits and vegetables that are significantly low in nutrition, flowers that don’t bloom well, or grass that fails to thrive. Synthetic supplements also run off or leach from the soil very readily. T his can lead to a variety of environmental complications. Synthetic fertilizers are manufactured and often come in pellet or granular form. Organic fertilizers can be naturally occurring substances like worm castings, seaweed, and guano, or minerals like rock phosphate and limestone. They can be manufactured substances like compost, bone meal, or fish meal. They can even be “green manure”, crops grown solely to add nutrients to the soil. Organic supplements depend on the microbial activity of soil organisms to break them down, which means that nutrients are released over a fairly long time period, resulting in steady plant growth. They generally contain lower concentrations of nutrients than do synthetic supplements, but they do perform several important functions that synthetic kinds do not. Organic fertilizers increase the organic content of the soil, which increases its water-holding capacity. Fewer nutrients are lost to run-off. Water from rain or irrigation is available to plants for a longer period. Organically-derived nutrients are slow to leach from the soil. Blood meal, bone meal, and fish meal are all three natural organic fertilizers that are fairly easy to apply accurately. Organic supplements actually improve the physical structure of the soil. This allows more air to get to plant roots. Organic supplements increase bacterial and fungal activity in the soil, particularly mycorrhizal fungi which make other nutrients more available to plants. Worms, which benefit the soil in many ways, are more likely to be present in organically-fertilized soil. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 43 Controlled release, (also called sustained release or timed release), fertilizers distribute nutrients over an extended period of time. They are usually granular in form and are intended for application every three to six months. Organic supplements are naturally slow release, and are better for the soil. Fast release fertilizers make nutrients immediately available to plants, but they are also depleted rapidly. You can actually damage or “burn” plants with fast-release supplements. They are usually water-soluble and intended for application every one to two weeks. If they are diluted sufficiently, they can be applied with every watering. In addition, the physical form of the supplement can affect the results. Granular and liquid formulations can be applied evenly, allowing distribution to the entire root system. Spikes and pellets concentrate the nutrients in one spot, but they are very convenient to use. Granular Lawn Fertilizers -- Feed grass plants the natural way, through the root system. Some granular products are specially coated to provide a time release effect. Time release properties of the granular pellets provides longer term benefits to the health of the grass plant and have a low burn potential. Slow release provides for long benefits and fewer applications. However, it takes longer for fertilizer to soak in-especially time-released products. If heavy rains occur during the lifetime of the granular pellets, some nutrients may be washed away and thus becomes less effective, and contribute to the potential pollution of surface water runoff. In addition, it does not provide the instant green-up associated with liquid fertilizers and they cost more than liquids. If using a granular fertilizer, be sure to calibrate the fertilizer before you use it. See Chapter 9 for more information. When applying granular fertilizers yourself, make sure you sweep granules off hard surfaces like sidewalks and drives into the lawn where they can be absorbed properly. If a using a professional lawn care service, make sure they do the same. Clean up all accidental spills immediately by sweeping them up. Some fertilizer pellets can cause stains to carpets if tracked inside. Granular pellets need to be watered in soon after application to avoid burning the grass. Be sure to do this to prevent birds from mistaking the pellets as seed. Expect lawn fertilizer prices to increase along with the prices of natural gas and petroleum. Natural gas and petroleum provide the basic building blocks of fertilizer. Liquid Lawn Fertilizers -- Liquid fertilizers are just as the name says— in liquid form. These are applied by attaching a hose and nozzle to a spray bottle, or by mixing a dry powder in a sprayer. The contents of the bottle are usually in concentrated form, thus the need to mix with the water. If you can use a hose, this is an easy method, more so than spreading granular around the yard. Also, since this a liquid, nutrients are available immediately to the roots of your vegetation. Herbicides can also be added or applied during this treatment, but, since the results are immediate, applications will have to be repeated more often than granular. Liquid fertilizer applied to the grass blades and absorbed into the plants system takes effect quickly. Liquid fertilizer transfers from the grass blade to the grass roots where it is stored for future use. Some liquid fertilizer is applied to the soil surface where it gradually percolates into the topsoil layer Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 44 over a period of time. Liquid fertilizers are usually less expensive than granular, and their effect on the lawn's appearance is much faster. If heavy rain or watering occurs before the fertilizer has had time to be absorbed, some benefits of the application, may be dissipated, and the application may contribute to the potential contamination of surface water or groundwater. Liquid fertilizers are short lived compared to time-released granular applications and require more frequent application. Following the application of a soluble fertilizer, plants may not be able to take up all the available nutrients, and some of the nutrients may leach below the plant rooting depth with percolating water. Since water "runs downhill" even under the land surface, these leached nutrients may be transported into the nearest lake or stream or into a drinking water well. Slow-release fertilizers, on the other hand, are designed to release nutrients at a rate more in line with plant needs. This means there is less likelihood that nutrients will leach below the plant rooting depth and be carried with subsurface water toward your lake. To date, university research has not found any major agronomic differences between liquid and dry fertilizers. Mulching Lawn Fertilization -- Mulching grass clippings back into the lawn is known as grass cycling. Most modern mowers have this feature. Rather than discharging the cuttings into a bag, the clippings are chopped again before falling harmlessly into your lawn. Even though the small clippings left behind are virtually invisible, they do promote the long-term health of your soil by adding additional organic material. Grass cycling can return as much as 30 percent of the nitrogen required by grasses for proper nutrition. To be effective, grass-cycling is best done with a lawn mower that cuts, and then chops the grass blades into the finer particles. This also requires more frequent mowing and removing less blade length with each mowing. Some of the “power lawn” products advertized is a combination of mulch, fertilizer, and seed. Do clippings mulched on the lawn contribute to thatch problems? -- Thatch is a layer of un-decomposed or partially decomposed grass roots, stems, crowns, runners and lower shoots that accumulate between the soil surface and actively growing turf. Grass clippings contain 80 to 85 percent water and decompose much more quickly than other grass plant parts. Research indicates that clippings do not contribute to thatch buildup on any cool- or warm-season grasses. Before you start returning clippings to your lawn, make sure the thatch layer is no more than 1/2" thick. A layer more than 1/2" thick will prevent clippings from coming into contact with soil microorganisms. If thatch is a problem in your lawn, de-thatch as suggested in this chapter. Are mulching mowers any more effective than regular lawn mowers? -- Mulching mowers are rotary mowers that cut clippings into smaller pieces and disperse them uniformly onto the lawn for decomposition. Removing only a third of the vertical green growth is very important when using a mulching type of mower. Well-designed mulching mowers distribute clippings more evenly across the lawn surface than regular lawn mowers. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 45 Biostimulants -- Seaweed, kelp and similar products are classified as biostimulants which are defined more by what they do than by what they are. As the name suggests, they stimulate growth, but they do much more. Stress tolerance is perhaps the most important benefit of biostimulants. Biostimulants impart stress tolerance partly by stimulating root growth and partly by promoting antioxidant activity. However, we still have much to learn about how biostimulants work, so these and other functions will become better understood with additional research. Virginia Tech evaluated a number of biostimulants for use on turfgrasses. Of the various materials examined, the most promising was seaweed extract. These products seemed to exert beneficial influences either through hormonal effects or by raising antioxidant levels in the plants. Although biostimulants can be synthetic, naturally occurring organic materials are excellent sources of biostimulants. For example, humic acid and seaweed extract are two commonly used turf biostimulant sources. Seaweed contains various hormones, vitamins, amino acids, mineral nutrients and other components. Thus, it may affect plants in several ways. However, its stimulating influence, particularly for turfgrasses growing under environmental stresses, has been attributed to its hormonal activity. Under favorable growing conditions, turfgrass grows well without adding biostimulants. Beneficial effects of biostimulants may not be easy to identify based only on leaf color or other visual clues. When the turfgrasses become stressed, biostimulant treated grasses actually performed better because they had developed a better defense system, apparently due to higher levels of antioxidants created by the biostimulants. As with mineral fertilizers, biostimulants take time to show any appreciable influence on turfgrasses. Under the university's studies, growth stimulation was not large enough to measure until 4 weeks after treatment. After 6 weeks, by contrast, they found significant differences in leaf and shoot number, as well as shoot and root weight of treated vs. non-treated Kentucky Bluegrass and Creeping Bentgrass. These findings suggest that biostimulants yield the best results when applied several weeks before a stress occurs. So, if you believe your lawn will suffer stress in the next month, a biostimulant may prove beneficial. Biostimulants may promote the growth of beneficial insects and nematodes in your lawn. Most seaweed biostimulants come from kelp that has been harvested, dried, and ground. Kelp meal is suitable for application directly to the soil, or for addition to the compost pile. It flows easily and is readily applied with most dry fertilizer applicators. It is easily mixed with other dry fertilizers and amendments. Dried raw seaweed tends to contain about 1% nitrogen, a trace of phosphorus, and 2% potash, along with magnesium, sulfur, and numerous trace elements. Raw seaweeds are prepared by various methods and sold under a number of brand names. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 46 More often, compounds from kelp and other seaweeds are extracted by various methods in order to concentrate both micronutrients and naturally occurring plant hormones into a soluble, easily transported form. Such kelp extracts are sometimes applied as a spray. For the most part, none of the micronutrient levels in kelp extracts is high enough to correct a deficiency, but as a "tonic" providing a broad array of micronutrients and other trace elements, seaweed extracts have won a measure of acceptance among organic farmers. Manure and Other Compost-based Organic Fertilizers -- One of the most common types of prepackaged alternative soil amendments is the manure- or compost-based blended fertilizer. Several of these products have national distribution, and many more enjoy a loyal regional following. Such products are typically analyzed at 2% — 5% for each nutrient. Dried compost is used as a bulking agent, source of nutrients, and organic matter. It is blended with several of the materials discussed in the guidebook, including rock minerals and plant and animal by-products. Nearly all products of this class sell for prices about three times greater than their conventional fertilizer value, but may be quite effective as a soil remediation measure. However, homeowners with access to other sources of manure or compost can realize substantial savings by relying on local manure resources for their lawns and planting beds Many soil conservationists rely on compost with horse manure to top off a soil to increase nutrients and promote plant growth. Sludge -- Composted sewage sludge is marketed as a fertilizer and soil amendment. This compost provides organic matter and a number of nutrients, and as marketed, is solid with little odor. Louisville Green is an example of sludge compost that is available at a very low price to residents within the Metro area. The greatest potential problems with using composted sludge are heavy metals from industrial waste, along with assorted chemical contaminants (from household cleaners, latex paint, and other things people flush down their drains). However, most municipally produced sludge composts are tested to make sure that they are safe for human consumption when applied to vegetable gardens and lawns. Pathogens are controlled fairly easily through proper composting, which raises the temperature of the composting material sufficiently to kill many microorganisms. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has established strict guidelines for pathogen control, which most sewage composting facilities follow. Before using any composted sludge or other treated municipal waste product in crop production, the grower must know the chemical composition of the product and whether it is safe to apply to food crops. Have the sludge tested, or read the label carefully to make sure it has been tested by the company. It is important to note that at least 38 states regulate the production of sewage compost. However, its use is prohibited in all certified organic farm production. Fertilizer application -- Turfgrass fertility programs often revolve around the quantity and timing of nitrogen applications. Nitrogen is used by turf plants in large quantities, and because it is rapidly tied up, it should be applied to most turfs 1 — 4 times per year. Most turf fertility recommendations will indicate the pounds of actual nitrogen to be applied per 1,000 square feet of turf per year. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 47 When is the best time to fertilize your lawn? -- Early in the morning when the dew is heavy. The dew means you'll leave tracks walking across the lawn and it'll be easier to see where you've been. Also, there is less wind and the fertilizer is less likely to blow around. Early fall is the most important time of year to fertilize your lawn. Think of the early fall lawn feeding as the big dinner. Spring is breakfast for the lawn and late spring is a light mid-morning snack. Lunch is usually eaten in late summer. Why grow grass? You may have asked yourself this question at one time or another, especially when mowing on a hot summer day. It may be a child’s question, but we grow grass for one reason: we can mow it and it survives, even thrives. Any other plant, even most other grasses would die after being mowed with any regularity. There are over 10,000 species of grass, yet only about 50 of those are suitable for use in a lawn. Why can lawn grasses be regularly mown without dying, and still maintain a healthy and attractive appearance? Unlike most plants, lawn grasses grow from the base of the plant, well below the sharpened rotating lawn mower blade. Other plants grow at the tips that don't respond well to being repeatedly cut. The process of mowing is actually reducing the plants leaves and cutting down its ability to use photosynthesis. Photosynthesis is the process that takes carbon dioxide from the air and turns it into carbohydrates that the plant uses for food. When the plant looses some of this ability, it overcompensates by producing additional leaves. The result: an even thicker, denser lawn that resists weed invasion and pests. So, the answer to the question "why grow grass?" is: because it's a plant that adapts best for the “look” many of us want in the lawn. Long before there were lawn mowers, there were herds of wild animals that grazed the prairies of America and Africa. These animals grazed on grass, nibbling at the nutrient rich plants all the way down as close to the ground as they could get. The plants that survived this intense grazing developed a root crown located just out of reach of the grazing animal's teeth. This intense cutting and re-growing developed the ability of the grass to regenerate itself, even after being chewed down almost to the root crown. So the prairie grasses survived and thrived, and grew into a thick turf that held the soil in place even during long periods of draught. It wasn't until the advent of expansive farming that uprooted this thick turf that we had the devastating soil erosion as seen during the Great Dust Bowl of the 1930s. As homeowners looked for a way of covering the area around their homes, to cut down on dirt and mud being continually tracked into the house, it became clear that the one plant ideal for this purpose was the prairie grasses. In time the prairie grasses were modified through selected pollination into the variety of turf grasses we have today. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 48 Why not reduce the amount of grass in your lawn? Grass is a marvelous plant, but that doesn't mean it has to be used everywhere. Some situations require large expanses of lawn such as areas that could be used for recreation or pets. Nothing else quite fills the bill like a soft green lawn to walk or run across, and while a pet may seem to prefer to relieve themselves on that favorite spot behind a certain chair, most dogs prefer the outdoors on the lawn. For areas that don't require this large expanse, or for areas that receive little foot traffic, then you can reduce the turf areas by including different ground covers, gently curving planting beds that weave around the property. Once established these landscaped areas require less maintenance, watering and supplemental fertilizers. What you don't want to have are areas that become bare soil during part of the year. Healthy lawns, even when they're dormant, still have a root structure and an above ground biomass that keeps the soil in place and prevents erosion. It is soil erosion that is a major cause of water pollution. So make sure when considering different options to replace a lawn that you're not making a situation worse just to replace grass. A list of native plants that can be used as ground covers may be seen in Appendix I. Often less is more. Less lawn square footage actually heightens the impact of what lawn is visible. Imagine a property that has nothing but an expanse of lawn from one edge of the property to the other. Not exactly a pretty picture. Now cut that lawn by 1/2 and introduce various perennial gardens that don't require buying large flats of annuals every spring. Sometimes growing grass isn't an option for a variety of areas in the lawn, usually too much shade. While turf grass is by far the most popular ground cover, there are other options that can serve as attractive and functional groundcovers -- shrubs, vines, annuals, perennials, conifers, and herbs, all of which require less attention including mowing, watering, fertilizer and weed control than does grass. An attractive ground cover may be used in place of grass. When most people think of groundcovers they think of the low-growing ivy and pachysandra, both of which do fine jobs at covering the ground. But actually, any mass planting that grows together to form a uniform mass planting and effectively covers the soil can be a suitable groundcover. There are no specific rules for height or type of plant that can be a good groundcover. There are many native plants that make a good ground cover, as well, (See Chapter 2.) Some plants work better in shade, while others function better on slopes or in long borders. The idea is to look at what you want to cover, the environment that area has, and what will grow in your climate. Groundcovers basic function is to serve as a living mulch to reduce moisture evaporation, control erosion and help prevent compaction of the soil. Therefore you can use a diversity of plants in different parts of your landscape that will create a healthier ecosystem. A growing number of homeowners are replacing lawns -- either all of it or a smaller area -- with lowmaintenance, often drought-tolerant plants. Sometimes, a vegetable garden fills the void. Blame (or credit), the conversion on more expensive gasoline and a growing awareness of how lawn mower emissions harm the environment. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 49 Did you know? The US EPA estimates 54 million Americans mow their lawns each weekend, with gaspowered mowers consuming 800 million gallons of gas annually. Environmental responsibility, along with a disdain for being slaves to the lawn, is helping to fuel interest in alternatives to turf grass, from perennial gardens to ground cover. Changing a lawn over to a no-mow landscape is a leap of faith, and few builders are willing to go this route since it is less expensive initially to install turf. If you are not ready to replace the entire lawn, consider starting with a small area, such as under a shade tree where grass is difficult to grow. Besides shady areas where grass won't grow, there's also the problem of what to do around trees where large roots push up through the ground making it difficult to mow or where trees have been removed and an old stump remains— ground covers work miracles at hiding these problem areas. The one thing that a typical groundcover doesn't do well is stand up to heavy traffic the way a lawn handles traffic. That doesn't mean that you can't walk across a ground cover occasionally, you just don't want to make a habit of doing so. Converting to a ground cover requires getting rid of the existing grass, which can be done several ways. For quick results, kill existing vegetation with a 2% glyphosate solution—but be careful where you spray. READ THE LABEL, and follow all directions exactly. Glyphosate degrades into harmless substances within 10 days, so the US EPA recommends it for use as a non-selective herbicide. Also, you can kill the grass by covering it with black plastic, or place layers of newspapers over the area in the fall for a long, slow, winter kill. No matter what method of grass elimination you select, plan on beefing up the soil before putting in ground cover. If the soil was too poor for grass, ground cover probably won't fare much better. Shredded leaves, peat moss, compost and top soil added to the top of existing soil provide a better base for ground cover to get established. Aerate the area by using an aerator that collects small soil “tubes” from the ground. Then you can rake the compost in, or leave it as a layer on top of the ground. Once it is mixed in and raked smooth, the area is ready for plants. What are some disadvantages to using turf grass in your lawn? Having a nice lawn surrounding your house not only improves the quality of your life, but also improves the value of your home and helps ecologically by filtering the air and water that passes through it. But these benefits do have a cost associated with them. • It needs to be cut on a regular basis. A healthy lawn is one with a good root system which is further developed through regular mowing at the proper height and frequency. Un-mown grass is also an invitation for ticks and mosquitoes which can transmit serious diseases. If you do-ityourself, then mowing involves time and physical exertion, not to mention the cost and Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 50 maintenance of a lawn mower. Although lawn mowers have improved greatly over the last few decades in terms of safety, they still pose certain dangers if not handled properly. Lawn mowers are typically dirty and noisy, although there are some new battery-powered models that are whisper quiet and don't pollute on the neighborhood level. • To look good, many lawns in poor soils need to be fed on a regular basis. Grass plants may have a large appetite to stay in top shape—especially if the grass type was not selected for the ‘climate’ of the yard. Without regular and timely feedings of properly balanced fertilizers that include special micro-nutrients, many lawns, especially those in poor soil, will lose its vitality and decrease its ability to withstand diseases and insect damage. • Lawns have a bad reputation as being polluters of our streams and rivers. Did you know that homeowners typically use 10 times the fertilizers and pesticides that farmers use, per acre? If Best Management Practices are used, professionally applied fertilizers are typically applied at the correct rate with little or no excess run-off. Do-ityourself homeowners are more likely to apply too much product that might result in excess run-off under the right conditions. • Pesticides are probably the biggest disadvantage to owning a premium lawn. Pesticides can be harmful to all concerned and extreme care must be taken in their use. Pesticides are best used in small doses and only as needed. Putting down weed-killer across the entire lawn when only a few weeds live out back isn't a good practice. Spot treatment of weeds is preferred and if you don't mind an occasional dandelion, forget weed controls altogether. Crabgrass and other invasive weeds need to be controlled annually before they become a major problem that is expensive and time consuming to correct. • Too much fertilizer applied to a lawn can cause serious damage. Most insects are beneficial to our ecosystem and pose no threat to our lawns, yet many homeowners will kill-off everything in sight or out of sight just to get rid of the bugs. Pesticides can be harmful and shouldn't be taken lightly by homeowners just because they can buy the stuff at the local hardware store. If not used and stored properly, pesticides can harm you, your children and your pets (even fatally). Professional lawn care applicators must be licensed by the state to apply pesticides and for good reason. To obtain a license they must have a good working knowledge of these chemicals including all of the precautions associated with them. The rate of application is also important. Homeowners typically over-apply pesticides and the results can be devastating. Each of these items can be considered disadvantages to having a lawn. Considering the alternatives though, a lawn is a pretty good choice and well worth the investment of time, effort and money required. Environmentally, a lawn more than pays for its upkeep by filtering our air and rain water, cooling our environment during the hot months, and providing a pleasing background for everything else that goes on around our homes and parks. Reducing the amount of lawn in your home landscape, or selecting a grass that is more “in tune” to your yard’s climate may help to conserve energy and save money. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 51 Some facts about lawns and allergies Lawns are often blamed for causing allergies but the right lawn is actually a powerful allergy suppressor. The best lawn grasses either do not bloom at all or will not bloom (and produce pollen) if they are regularly mowed. What is little understood or appreciated is that a thick lawn or ground cover is a very effective pollen trap. Pollen blows about and when it lands on smooth surfaces (cars, cement, roofs, decks, large leaves) it doesn't often stay there for long. The next good breeze to come along picks the pollen up and gets it back into the air. However, consider what happens when airborne pollen lands on a well-maintained lawn or ground cover. The lawn is composed of millions of long, slim leaves and the pollen grains fall down between these leaves. When it rains or when the lawn is sprinkled, the pollen grains are pushed further downward, down to the ground level. There the pollen is trapped and remains. An average sized lawn at an ordinary house will trap and remove hundreds of millions of grains of pollen each season. A strong growing lawn or ground cover will trap and remove far more pollen than it will ever produce itself. Grass pollen usually occurs only when the grass is un-mown, and grows to where the grass blooms. To be fair here, a few types of lawns, such as ordinary common Bermuda grass lawns, can be large producers of allergenic pollen. However, common Bermuda produces much more pollen when it is stressed. When a Bermuda grass lawn is kept well fertilized, regularly mowed, and well watered, even it will produce little pollen. By the way, there are new kinds of Bermuda grass that don’t produce any pollen. There are also types of other grasses that are separate-sexed, and with these the female lawns are also pollen-free. A few types of grasses are somewhat stiff and prickly and less pleasant to lie on. These grasses may irritate the skin of sensitive people. Bahia grass and some of the types of Zoysia grass will cause this itchiness. These are specially developed grasses that are not native to Kentucky. Ask your allergist if there are any types of grass that they recommend that you use in your lawn if you have severe allergies. Certain types of lawn mowers may kick up pollen that does land on a lawn. A well-maintained mulching mower will deposit pollen back down below the mower and then it will work its way downward with watering or rainfall. Push reel mowers bring up little pollen and most power reel mowers are also pollen-safe, not mention environmentally safe. A side-discharge mower, used without a bagger, may kick up some loose pollen and, if you have allergies and are mowing the lawn, can be a problem. Not only does a push reel mower stir up less pollen when mowing, but it is also energy efficient. There are some allergenic people though who will react negatively to volatile organic compounds that are released when the blades of grass are cut. People who experience this problem would be wise to get someone else to do the actual mowing. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 52 Leaf blowers also blow up a good deal of pollen that may be lying about on cement. If you have allergies it is a good idea to wear a face mask when using a leaf blower. Do not blow towards the direction of your house either. It is always a good idea to close the windows in your house too, before using a leaf blower. Pollen is tiny and can easily pass right through the tightest window screens. Turf Grasses Available in Kentucky When selecting a turf grass, the homeowner must take many factors into consideration. How many hours of sunlight does the area have? Do you need more than one kind of seed mix, based on sunlight? Is your lawn acidic or alkaline? How tolerant of drought and/or wet times does the grass need to be? How much foot traffic will the lawn have? In which part of Kentucky do you live? Although there are a multitude of turfgrass brands, there are basically three types of grass: • Cool season grasses; • Transitional grasses; and • Warm season Grasses. Each type of grass is better suited for different climate types in the US. Kentucky is located within the transitional grass type and the cool season grass type. This means that we have climate characteristics that include cold winters and hot summers. The map shown above depicts the four basic types of grasses in the Southeast. Kentucky is within the Transitional Grasses area, (2), and the cool season grass area, (1). The remainder of the southeast is in the Warm Season grass area. Cool Season Grasses -- On average, the climates where cool season grasses thrive have cold winters and warm/hot summers. Usually they also have regular intervals of rain throughout the summer months, but grasses will tolerate some extended periods of drought by going dormant. Durable cool-season grasses include the most popular - Kentucky Bluegrass, perennial rye, tall and fine fescues. New blends of the turf-type tall fescues are also becoming more widespread. In Kentucky, most low maintenance lawn grasses are cool season grasses. How do you identify a cool season grass? Look at the grass' texture to tell it from other types. Coarse tall fescue's big blades and bunches look rougher than bluegrass's and rye's narrow, fine leaves. If your grass has thin, needlelike leaves it is probably a fine fescue. Kentucky Bluegrass is true green like fine fescue but turns brown easily during hot weather. Look for new cultivars of tall fescues noted for their reliable dark green even in summer, and perennial ryes that sprout bright green, then darken. Rye and tall fescue sprout and take over quickly compared with bluegrass and fine fescue. Most fescues are likely to bunch up; however, new varieties of fescue are less likely to do this. Tall fescue needs little additional irrigation and stands up to regular use as on a playground. Bluegrass needs regular irrigation to survive. Some typical cool season grasses are: • Kentucky Blue Grass • Tall Fescues • Fine Fescues • Rye Grass Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 53 Did You Know? Did you know that Kentucky Bluegrass is not native to Kentucky? Bluegrass is native to Scotland, Ireland, and England. English settlers to Virginia brought the seeds to the Virginia to plant in fields for their sheep and cattle for grazing. In the US, it can be invasive, and spread from Virginia throughout the Midwest Transitional Area. Early settlers to Kentucky did not see stands of Bluegrass. They brought it with them! Transition Grasses -- There is a “transition zone” between northern and southern turf regions, which follows the lower elevations of Virginia and North Carolina west through West Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee and Arkansas and includes southern Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri and Kansas. In this transition zone, neither warm nor cool season grasses are uniformly successful. However, several of the northern or “cool season” grasses, such as Kentucky Bluegrass and perennial ryegrass and tall fescue, do well across Kentucky, Virginia, West Virginia and Missouri. Tall fescue is the best choice in Kentucky, Tennessee, North Carolina, northern Georgia, northern Alabama and the Texas panhandle, especially as a low-maintenance grass. In the lower elevations of these latter states warm season grasses do well too. The lawn at My Old Kentucky Home state park. Typical transitional grasses found in Kentucky include: • Kentucky Bluegrass • Tall Fescue • Perennial Rye Grass • Zoysia Warm Season Grasses -- In some ways, growing and maintaining a good-looking lawn in the South is more involved than for northern homeowners. Choosing a grass type is trickier; many turf grass varieties do much better when started as plugs or sod than from seed, as is usually done with Cool Season turf-type grasses. Good soil is critically important for growing a low maintenance lawn in this region. Most all Warm Season grass types will turn brown when cooler temperatures arrive. Some southern gardeners seed their existing lawns with ryegrass each fall to maintain green color during the winter months. This is called “winter overseeding.” Maintaining ideal growing conditions for your particular grass type is critical; otherwise unwanted grass varieties will start popping up and will be extremely difficult to remove. For example, St. Augustine grass being invaded by Bermuda and vice versa. Many warm season grasses can be invasive in Kentucky, and are considered by some to be undesirable. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 54 Warm-Season grasses are of tropical origin and thrive during the scorching summer heat. They are tough and form a dense lawn cover that thickens as they age. They are not green during the cold spells of winter. Their leaves turn brown in late fall and don't green up again until warm weather returns. In general they are green a little over half the year. Warm-season grasses are best suited for lower and middle South regions which include the Coastal areas from Virginia south to Georgia and west through Alabama to Texas. Zoysia grass and more cold-tolerant grasses such as Bermuda can be grown in the upper South which includes the mountainous regions from Virginia and North Carolina west through northern Tennessee and Arkansas. Bermuda grass usually turns a light brown color during winter in Kentucky. Typical warm season grasses found in Kentucky include: • Bermuda • Buffalo • Zoysia Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 55 The table below lists some of the common turf grass types used by homeowners in Kentucky. Table 5 – Common Turf Grasses in Kentucky Name Picture Distribution Map Habit Bermuda Grass Cynodon dactylon Is a non-native species that is easily grown in average, dry to medium, well-drained soil in full sun. Tolerates heat, drought and a wide range of soils. When grown as a turfgrass, fertilize during the growing season (May to August) and use soil barriers to prevent spread into adjacent areas. Sometimes overseeded with rye. Bermuda grass has winter hardiness problems in the Midwest Transition Area, however, and is not recommended as far north as far north as Cincinnati. Some winter kill is to be expected when winter temperatures dip below 10 degrees F. Bermuda grass (also sometimes commonly called wire grass), is a tough, warm season grass which spreads rapidly by both stolons and rhizomes. In optimum conditions, it will form a dense lawn which tolerates foot traffic well and excludes many common weeds. On the other hand, many homeowners consider it to be a noxious weed and expend considerable energy trying to eradicate it from their lawns and garden areas. The main disadvantages of Bermuda grass as a turfgrass are: • Foliage turns straw-colored from mid-fall to late spring when grass goes dormant, and • Highly invasive habit which results in spread into adjacent plantings such as flower beds, vegetable garden and borders. Bermuda Grass is a coarse, seeded turfgrass variety which features light green blades. There are no serious insect or disease problems with Bermuda Grass. White grubs are the most common insect problem. Brown patch and dollar spot are infrequent disease problems. Invasive plant which many homeowners consider to be a weed. Bermuda Grass is a turfgrass for southern lawns. Also used extensively in southern golf courses for fairway and tee areas. Not recommended for a low maintenance lawn. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 56 Table 5 – Common Turf Grasses in Kentucky Name Picture Distribution Map Habit Buffalo Grass Buchloe dactyloides Easily grown in average, dry to medium, well-drained soil in full sun. Tolerates heat, drought and a wide range of soils. Adapts to alkaline soils. Avoid frequent watering. When grown as a turfgrass, mow as needed to a height of 2-3" tall. Also may be naturalized without mowing as a 4-6" tall grass. Several varieties are available from seed companies. May also be established by sod or plugs. Buffalo grass is a fine-textured warm season grass which is native to the Great Plains. It typically grows 4-6" tall and spreads by stolons. In optimum growing conditions, it can form a low maintenance turf which survives hot and humid summers with minimal water and fertilizer. The main disadvantages of buffalo grass as a turfgrass are: • Foliage turns straw-colored from mid-fall to mid-spring when grass is dormant; • Somewhat invasive habit which may result in spread into adjacent plantings such as flower beds, vegetable garden and borders; and • Will not tolerate heavy foot traffic. No serious insect or disease problems. Stolons may spread into adjacent areas. May be used as a low-maintenance turfgrass. Also frequently planted in parks and golf courses. Effective on dry sunny slopes where it can also provide some erosion control. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 57 Table 5 – Common Turf Grasses in Kentucky Name Picture Distribution Map Habit Chewing’s or Red Fescue Festuca rubra Name Chewing’s or Red fescue is a fine-leaved turfgrass that does well in part shade and grows best in cool climates as in the coastal northwest, Great Lakes area or at high elevations. It has good drought tolerance and requires low to medium amounts of fertilizer (1 to 3 lbs. nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft.) It can be blended with tall fescue or bluegrass and has the ability to creep by rhizomes. Seeding rates are about 2 to 4 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. Chewing’s or Red fescue is the most commonly used cool season turfgrass in shade and dry, drought-prone areas. It can be mixed with other fescues and bluegrass to provide a full sun to shade blend. Its maintenance requirement is low to medium and should be mowed at about 2 to 3". It can be left unmowed for a meadow look, if desired. Chewing’s or Red fescue does not wear well, (needs low traffic areas), and is slow to recuperate when thinned out or damaged. It is very susceptible to summer diseases in hot climates and this can become more notable in fertile, moist soils. Frequently used under shade conditions such as beneath the canopy of trees. Blend with bluegrass or tall fescue. May be used as a low maintenance turfgrass in Northern Kentucky and along the Ohio River. Picture Distribution Map Habit Creeping Bentgrass Agrostis palustris Grows in average, medium moisture, well-drained soils in full sun. Tolerates some partial shade. Once it is established, it generally requires less maintenance (mowing, watering and fertilizing) than many other types of turf grasses. As the name suggests, NO MOW grass means that mowing is optional. NO MOW has been developed as a low maintenance turf grass for specific U.S. growing zones. In the northern parts of the U. S. (USDA Zones 3-5), it is a blend of mostly bent grass that is often referred to as northern nomow grass. In the southern parts of the U. S. (USDA Zones 6-8), it is a blend of bent and fescue grasses that is often referred to as southern no-mow grass. This grass typically grows to 3-6” tall and requires little maintenance. No serious insect or disease problems. Used in turf grass. Pastures, roadsides, fields, slopes or naturalized areas. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 58 Table 5 – Common Turf Grasses in Kentucky Name Fine Fescue Name Kentucky Bluegrass Picture Distribution Map Habit See Chewing’s Fescue, Red Fescue, and Hard Fescue -- The fescues are cool season grasses that are adapted to the transition zone and into Canada. The fescue species are easily seeded and include the sub species of tall bunching grasses named tall fescue and fine shorter fescues named creeping red, hard, chewing’s and sheep fescue. All of the fescues share the same variety characteristics with the three dominant ones being shade tolerance, staying green all year, and having very good drought resistance. Fine Fescues are more cold and shade tolerant than tall fescue, but both are used though-out much of the Central to Northern USA states. Picture Distribution Map Habit Kentucky Bluegrass is best grown in fertile, medium moisture, well-drained soils in full sun to part shade. It prefers cool climates, neutral to slightly acidic soils, frequent watering (1-1.5" per week) and periodic applications of fertilizer, (e.g., May, September and October). In Kentucky’s climates, this grass does best with full sun in the spring and fall, but with part afternoon shade (as from shade trees) in the hot summer months. May brown up and go semi-dormant when temperatures consistently exceed 90 degrees F with periods of drought. Mow regularly to 3" tall in summer in order to provide some protection for the crowns in hot weather. Kentucky Bluegrass is generally slow to establish and is often sold in blends with other faster growing grasses, (e.g., fescues and perennial rye), which provide cover until the grass becomes established. For a pure bluegrass lawn, it is best to mix and sow the seed of 3-5 different cultivars. Kentucky Bluegrass is one of the most widely planted turfgrasses, and is generally considered to be the standard by which cool season grasses are compared. It is a creeping (by rhizomes), fine-textured, cool season turfgrass which features soft, narrow, linear, rich, medium to dark green blades (to 1/8" wide) and characteristic boat-shaped tips. The network of roots and rhizomes forms a dense sod. A large number of cultivars have been introduced over the years which vary considerably in terms of disease resistance, texture, color, cultural requirements and recommended uses Kentucky Bluegrass is susceptible to a number of fungal diseases including dollar spot, leaf spots, stripe smut, powdery mildew and summer patch, and is also subject to attack from a number of insects including root-eating grubs, cutworms, billbugs and sod webworms. When under stress, most cultivars will show diminished resistance to damage from insects, diseases and drought. Turfgrass for cool to moderate climates, home lawns, cemeteries, parks, golf courses and athletic fields. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 59 Table 5 – Common Turf Grasses in Kentucky Name Kentucky 31 Fescue Red Fescue Name Rye Grass, Annual Name Picture Distribution Map Habit Kentucky 31 Fescue is a specially developed grass to provide ground cover, and has been declared an exotic, invasive species by the Kentucky Plant Council. Although it is often used by home builders to provide a turfgrass, it is not recommended for use in the lawn. See Chewing’s Fescue Picture Distribution Map Habit The leaves of annual ryegrass are dark green and shiny with smooth edges and clasping auricles. Plants can grow to more than 3 feet in height as the seed heads mature. Annual ryegrass is closely related to perennial ryegrass and can be readily crossed with it. The varieties created by crossing annual x perennial ryegrass are called intermediate or "hybridum" ryegrasses and can behave more as short-lived perennials. Because of easy establishment, volunteer ryegrass can become a weedy plant. Timely clipping of seeded areas and infested field borders and waterways, as well as keeping equipment clean, will help limit future weed problems with annual ryegrass. Annual ryegrass is widely adapted. Though it is best adapted to fertile, well-drained soils, it can survive and make good growth on wetter soils. Annual ryegrass is a heavy user of water and will not grow well during droughts. It is relatively easy to establish and can be used for lawns. Picture Distribution Map Habit Rye Grass, Perennial Lolium perenne Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 60 Table 5 – Common Turf Grasses in Kentucky Name Rye Grass, Perennial Lolium perenne (continued) Name Picture Distribution Map Habit Grow in average, medium moisture soils in full sun to part shade. Perennial ryegrass is best in cool climates, and is a good, slow-growing turfgrass. It is also recommended for use in mixtures as a starter that will provide early cover until the slower growing grasses in the mixture kick in. The perennial ryegrass is a cool season, non-creeping, bunch-type grass which is primarily used as a turfgrass. Features shallow roots and glossy green leaf blades (1/8" wide) which can technically grow to 2' tall. Somewhat resembles Kentucky bluegrass in appearance. Main virtues are rapid germination time, quick coverage and traffic tolerance (good for athletic fields). Main vices are non-spreading habit and tough flower/seed stems which tend to lie down and avoid the mower. If planted alone, it usually develops into a somewhat tufted turf. When bare spots occur, they must be reseeded because the grass does not spread. In the South, perennial ryegrass is sometimes used to overseed Bermuda grass lawns so that the lawns will show some green in winter when the Bermuda goes dormant. This cultivar is considered to be finer and more uniform than the species. Perennial ryegrass is susceptible to a number of fungal diseases which are particularly troublesome in hot, humid climates. Picture Distribution Map Habit Tall Fescue Schedonorus phoenix There are several types of tall fescue grasses, one of which is known as Dwarf Fescue. This grass is a selection of tall fescue grown for its low stature and reduced growth rate. It can be grown in zones 3 to 6, but does best in cool climates of northern areas of the U.S. Dwarf fescue fertilizer needs are low to medium requiring about 1 to 3 lbs of nitrogen per year. It has good drought tolerance and requires only infrequent waterings. Mowing height should be between 2 and 3 ". Tall fescues are adapted to a wide range of soil and climate conditions, but do best in cool areas. It is perhaps the best grass in the transition zone withstanding summer heat and drought as well as periodic cold winter temperatures. It makes a tough play lawn, however, may require reseeding to repair damaged areas. These grasses have good disease tolerance. Like other fescues, tall fescues tend to clump and if used in mixtures, it must predominate. In the spring and fall during the high growth periods, wearability is good. In summer when temperatures rise, it is sensitive to drought and may go dormant, turning brown or gray/brown. Damaged areas due to weather extremes, pests, diseases etc. need to be reseeded in the spring or fall. It is also prone to problems caused by the fungal disease called brown patch. Tall fescue is used primarily as a residential lawn and especially valuable in the transition zone of the U.S. where temperature extremes are possible. Because it cannot repair itself quickly, there is limited use as a sport turfgrass. However, it is recommended as a low maintenance grass for use in the home lawns. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 61 Table 5 – Common Turf Grasses in Kentucky Name Picture Distribution Map Habit Zoysia Grass Zoysia japonica Zoysia grows in average, dry to medium moisture, well-drained soil in full sun. It tolerates heat, drought and a wide range of soils. Mowing regularly to a height of 1.5”2.5" tall does not make this recommended for a low maintenance lawn. Fertilize moderately during the growing season (May to July). Zoysia lawns are usually established vegetatively by sod, sprigs or plugs rather than by planting seed. Meyer Zoysia is a warm season, creeping (by both stolons and rhizomes) turfgrass which in optimum growing conditions forms a dense, bluegrass-like lawn which tolerates foot traffic well and excludes many common weeds. Main disadvantage is that it turns straw colored (goes dormant) from mid-fall to mid-spring. Blades may technically grow to 9" long, but are typically mowed to 1-2" tall. No serious insect or disease problems. White grubs are the most common insect problem. Brown patch and dollar spot are infrequent disease problems. Shade Tolerant Grasses -- Shade can cause significant growth changes in grass plants. In response to reduced sunlight, grass plants form more of an upright growth habit including thinner, longer leaves; shallower rooting; lower plant energy levels and become less dense. Some grass types have developed a tolerance or adaptation to reduced light levels. Others have not. Below is a table that ranks common turfgrass species according to their shade tolerance. Table 6 – Shade Tolerances of Common Turfgrasses Ranking High Medium Low Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Cool Season Fine Fescue Rough Bluegrass Annual Bluegrass Tall Fescue Perennial Ryegrass Kentucky Bluegrass Creeping Bentgrass Warm Season Zoysia Grass Bermuda Grass Page 62 What is the best lawn grass for your lawn? Today we have a wide variety of grass species to select from for adorning our landscape. For Kentucky Bluegrass there are more than 100 different varieties available today. As late as 1950, we only had one variety of Kentucky Bluegrass. With so many choices, how do you know what's right for your backyard? What to consider when deciding which grass is best for you: • Maintenance required: some grass species require more care than other, high maintenance grasses. • Climate conditions: most grasses have a preference for specific climates such as humid, coastal, dry, cool. • Temperature tolerance: each grass performs better or worse depending on the average temperature range during the growing season. • Drought resistance: some grass species are better suited quickly recover after going dormant during extended drought conditions. • Shade adaptation: grass species are classified by how much or how little sunlight they need to maintain their health and vigor. • Wear resistance: this is a measurement of how well a grass species can recover from foot traffic. Not every grass is good for every climate. Some species are good for shade, others are good for cold climates and still others perform better in extremely hot areas. Use the pictures below to find the average temperature and precipitation for your area in Kentucky. The annual mean temperatures in Kentucky range from 54o in the northeast to 58o in portions of the Jackson Purchase Area.* Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 63 The annual mean precipitation for Kentucky ranges from 43 inches per year in the extreme northeast corner of the state, to 54 inches per year in some areas of the southern portion of the state.* *From Atlas of Kentucky, University Press of Kentucky, 1998. Kentucky Climate Center at Western Kentucky University. http://kyclim.wku.edu/ The following is a list of the best readily available grasses for specific adaptations: Shady Areas: • Fine-leaf Fescue: (cool season) does not tolerate traffic, drought resistant, shade tolerant. Some varieties are more disease resistant (Aurora) • Tall Fescue: (transition zone) low maintenance that offers good drought resistance and better tolerates light traffic. Warmer Climates in Kentucky: • Bermuda Grass: (warm season) fine texture that tolerates traffic. Vigorous and tolerates drought and salt. Does not do well in shade and tends to build up thatch. • Zoysia Grass: (warm season/transition zone) slow-growing, dense grass, drought tolerant. Does better with frequent watering. Builds up thatch. Colder Climates in Kentucky: • Fine-leaf Fescue: (cool season) does not tolerate traffic, drought resistant, shade tolerant. Some varieties are more disease resistant. • Kentucky Bluegrass: (cool season) most common cool season grass and the hardiest for cold weather. Fine texture, fills in bare spots quickly, requires more mowing, does not do well in shady areas and does not tolerate salt. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 64 Drought Resistance Grasses: • Tall Fescue: (transition zone) low maintenance that offers good drought resistance and better tolerates light traffic. • Bermuda Grass: (warm season) fine texture that tolerates traffic. Vigorous and tolerates drought and salt. Does not do well in shade and tends to build up thatch. • Buffalo Grass: (warm season) one of the few native North American grasses, is drought tolerant, but doesn't hold up to traffic. Turns brown when it gets hot and when it gets cold. Grows slowly. • Zoysia Grass: (warm season/transition zone) slow-growing, dense grass, drought tolerant. Does better with frequent watering. Builds up thatch. High-use/traffic areas: • Perennial Ryegrass: (cool season and overseeding in warm season areas) medium texture, handles traffic, handles drought conditions without a lot of additional watering or fertilizer. Does not do well in shade. Mixes well with other grass types. • Kentucky Bluegrass: (cool season) most common cool season grass and the hardiest for cold weather. Fine texture, fills in bare spots quickly, requires more mowing, does not do well in shady areas and does not tolerate salt. • Bermuda Grass: (warm season) fine texture that tolerates traffic. Vigorous and tolerates drought and salt. Does not do well in shade and tends to build up thatch. • Zoysia Grass: (warm season/transition zone) slow-growing, dense grass, drought tolerant. Does better with frequent watering. Builds up thatch. Low-maintenance Grasses: • Fine-leaf Fescue: (cool season) does not tolerate traffic, drought resistant, shade tolerant. Some varieties are more disease resistant. • Tall Fescue: (transition zone) low maintenance that offers good drought resistance and better tolerates light traffic. • Buffalo Grass: (warm season) one of the few native North American grasses, is drought tolerant, but doesn't hold up to traffic. Turns brown when it gets hot and when it gets cold. Grows slowly. To find out which of the above best-of-breed grasses will work for you contact a local lawn care professional or contact your local county extension service. They will be able to tell you through trial and error which ones will work for your situation. You also want to be careful about mixing different species together. For example, Fine Fescue and Kentucky Bluegrass are both recommended for cold areas, but the two don't go well together in the same lawn. Fine Fescue is a bunching grass, while Kentucky Bluegrass is a spreading-type grass. You'll end up with clumps of fine fescue growing up out of your Bluegrass lawn and it will look patchy and rough. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Sometimes, laying sod is a good way to re-seed or rejuvenate high traffic areas. Page 65 Organic Lawn Care More people are asking for information regarding organic lawn care, because they are interested in protecting the environment. Many people want to decrease or eliminate the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides in their home lawns. There is concern some products may be harmful to humans, beneficial insects, wildlife, and pets. This is not necessarily true however. With proper use and common sense precautions, lawn care products are quite safe. That being said, organic lawn care does have some benefits over traditional lawn care. The term conventional or traditional lawn care as used here, implies the use of inorganic fertilizers, or more correctly, soluble fertilizers. Most traditional lawn fertilizers are soluble fertilizers. They provide macro- and micro-nutrients to the lawn as soon as the fertilizers get wet and soak into the soil. Organic fertilizers are not soluble— in other words, adding water to organic fertilizers doesn't change them or make them readily available for plants to use. They must first be processed by microbes before the nutrients are in a form useable by plants. Inorganic fertilizers are in such a form that this intermediate microbe step is not required. As soon as soluble fertilizers become wet, they are ready for use by the plant. This why the inorganic fertilizers may add to surface water pollution. Several national organizations encourage the use of organic lawn care to reduce pesticide and fertilizer runoff and absorption into the ground water. The plant can't tell the difference between a soluble fertilizer and an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizers take longer before they become available for plant use. Soluble fertilizers become available much faster, which could be a problem. However, today, fertilizer producers have incorporated a timerelease aspect to their fertilizer. This slows down the nutrient release time-table to a controlled release. One of the main advantages of organic lawn care is that the homeowner is more involved in the health of their landscape and ecosystem. This is an important difference. It represents a commitment to the environment. This commitment benefits not only your lawn or landscape, but also the local wildlife including beneficial insects and microbes living in the soil. The soil is the real beneficiary of organic lawncare. Part of an organic program is the addition of organic matter such as compost or lawn clippings to the soil. Over time, this additional organic matter greatly improves the health of the soil. Improved soil contributes to healthy plants that will be less susceptible to damage from pests or environmental stress. Fertilizer may be applied less frequently than in conventional lawn care but timing of application becomes especially important. Weeds, insects, and diseases are managed by cultural practices that are oriented toward prevention. Natural organic methods also emphasize the recycling of organic wastes. Healthy soil can grow healthy plants. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 66 Limited scientific research has been done on exclusively natural organic lawn care programs. However, well-documented research has been done on many practices that are an integral part of organic lawn care such as core aeration, mowing height, and top-dressing with compost. Recommendations for a completely natural organic approach are therefore based on years of collective experience. Being aware of the options involved in organic lawncare will make you a better informed gardener and a more responsible landowner. How do you get started with an organic lawncare program? -- The fastest way is to stop using chemical fertilizers. Stop spraying for insects. Mow your lawn at the highest level possible for the type of grass you have, leave your lawn clippings on the ground, aerate your soil periodically, and apply organic fertilizers that are protein based. You can also add a thin layer of compost (top dressing) every 4 — 5 years. Compost is not a fertilizer, but a soil amendment that improves microbe activity. That is pretty much the gist of organic lawncare. The first step in switching from conventional to natural organic lawn care is to assess the quality of the existing lawn. If an existing lawn contains few weeds and consists of a desirable turfgrass species, natural organic methods and cultural practices can maintain a satisfactory lawn. If however, excessive weeds or an undesirable turfgrass species dominate the lawn, it may be best to kill the entire lawn and start over, add plenty of organic matter to the existing top soil and then seed with a quality lawn seed. Remember that the US EPA recommends using glyphosate-based products as a plant killer. But be careful when killing the grass/weeds near ornamentals. Make sure that you don’t “over spray” onto your desirable plants. The next step is assessing soil quality. Natural organic lawn care methods underscore good soil quality as a prime factor in growing healthy lawns. Good soil contains plenty of organic matter. Organic matter improves soil structure by binding mineral soil particles together to form aggregates. Aggregates create greater pore space among the aggregated particles, providing optimal conditions for root growth. Increased pore space also improves both soil drainage and water-holding capacity and improves soil aeration. Sufficient quantities of organic matter in the soil also aid in nitrogen fixation, reduce soil borne plant diseases, and helps hold on to nutrients for plant use as needed. Good soil also contains adequate nutrients plants can readily use. A useful tool in the assessment of soil quality is a soil test performed at a soil-testing lab. Soil testing has been discussed in detail earlier. Making the transition -- The transition to natural organic methods can be instituted at any time if you're saving the existing lawn. Choose appropriate organic fertilizers with the right ingredients to correct deficiencies found in the soil test. Most soil test recommendations are based on using conventional chemical fertilizers. Use the nutrient rates recommended in the soil test as a guideline for the application of natural organic fertilizers. If you're not saving the existing lawn, follow directions suitable for re-establishing a lawn in your area. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 67 Cultural practices -- Cultural practices in natural organic lawncare are similar to those used in conventional lawn care. Proper maintenance techniques and timing are more crucial in a natural organic lawn since the aim is preventing potential problems. There are two key points to keep in mind when going organic. The first is that compared to conventional lawn care, results take longer. Organic lawn care stresses ongoing soil building and understanding that there are no quick fixes as promised by conventional chemical fertilizers. A few weeds or insects here and there are part of the organic approach. Perfection should not be an expectation. Used consistently, a reasonably uniform green lawn, resistant to adverse environmental conditions can be expected and all without relying on artificial chemicals. Composting Compost is the end product of a complex feeding pattern involving hundreds of different organisms, including bacteria, fungi, worms, and insects. What remains after these organisms break down organic materials is a rich, earthy substance your garden, and your lawn, will love. In every forest, grassland, jungle, and garden, plants die, fall to the ground, and decay. They are slowly dismantled by the small organisms living in the soil. Eventually these plant parts disappear into the brown crumbly forest floor. This humus keeps the soil light and fluffy, and full of nutrients. Composting replicates this natural system of breaking down materials on the forest floor with the added benefit of heat. A good compost pile can heat up to over 160 degrees at its peak, killing off most weed seeds and many harmful diseases. Keeping a compost thermometer in the pile will help guide you as to when to turn the pile during the process. Several days after reaching a peak temperature, the temperature will drop. After it drops 30 degrees or so, turn the pile. This process creates suitable compost in the shortest time possible. If you don't relish the idea of turning a compost pile, just add materials throughout the summer and leave it alone. By the following summer, most of the material will be suitable to reapply to the garden. Monitoring the heat generated in a compost pile will help you determine the right time to turn the pile. Humus is your goal -- By providing the right environment for the organisms in the compost pile, it is possible to produce excellent compost. We usually want to organize and hasten Mother Nature's process. By knowing the optimum conditions of heat, moisture, air, and materials, we can speed up the composting process. Besides producing more good soil faster, making the compost faster creates heat which will destroy plant diseases and weed seeds in the pile. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 68 Good Compost Materials -- Almost any organic material is suitable for a compost pile. The pile needs a proper ratio of carbon-rich materials, or "browns," and nitrogen-rich materials, or "greens." Among the brown materials are dried leaves, straw, and wood chips. Nitrogen materials are fresh or green, such as grass clippings and kitchen scraps Mixing certain types of materials or changing the proportions can make a difference in the rate of decomposition. Achieving the best mix is more an art gained through experience than an exact science. The ideal ratio approaches 25 parts browns to 1 part greens. Judge the amounts roughly equal by weight. Too much carbon will cause the pile to break down too slowly, while too much nitrogen can cause odor. The carbon provides energy for the microbes, and the nitrogen provides protein. Good compost materials supplies a mixture of brown and green materials with air and water. Leaves -- Leaves represent a large percentage of total yard waste. If you can grind them in a shredder/chipper or mow over them, they will reduce in size making them easier to store until you can use them in the pile, and they will decompose faster - an issue with larger leaves. They are loaded with minerals brought up from the tree roots and are a natural source of carbon. A few leaf species such as live oak, southern magnolia, and holly trees are too tough and leathery for easy composting. Avoid all parts of the black walnut tree as they contain a plant poison that survives composting. Eucalyptus leaves can be toxic to other plants. Also, avoid using poison oak, poison ivy, and sumac. Pine Needles need to be chopped or shredded, as they decompose slowly. They are covered with a thick, waxy coating. In very large quantities, they can acidify your compost, which would be a good thing if you have alkaline soils, but may make the soil too acidic for alkaline loving plants. Grass Clippings -- Clippings break down quickly and contain almost as much nitrogen as manure. Since fresh grass clippings will clump together, become anaerobic, and start to smell, mix them with plenty of brown material. If you have a lot of grass clippings to compost, spread them out to dry on the driveway or other surface to bake in the sun for a day or so. Once it begins to turn pale or straw-like, it can be used without danger of souring. Avoid grass clippings that contain pesticide or herbicide residue, unless a steady rain has washed the residue from the grass blades. Kitchen scraps -- Kitchen refuse includes melon rinds, carrot peelings, tea bags, coffee grounds, apple cores, and banana peels - almost everything that cycles through your kitchen. The average household produces more than 200 pounds of kitchen waste every year. You can successfully compost all forms of kitchen waste. However, many composters do not use kitchen waste products. Meat, meat products, dairy products, and high-fat foods like salad dressings and peanut butter, can present problems. These items will decompose eventually, but will smell bad and attract pests. Egg shells are a wonderful addition, but decompose slowly, so should be crushed. All additions to the compost pile will decompose more quickly if they are chopped up some before adding. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 69 Collect your kitchen waste in a small container in the kitchen to bring to the pile every few days. Keep a lid on the container to discourage insects. When you add kitchen scraps to the compost pile, cover them with some of the brown material to reduce visits by flies or critters. Other materials -- Some wood ashes from a fireplace can be added to the compost pile. Ashes are alkaline, so add no more than 1 gallon-sized buckets-full to a pile with 3'x3'x3' dimensions. They are especially high in potassium. Don't use coal ashes. Coal ashes contain large amounts of sulfur and iron that can injure plants. Used charcoal briquettes don't decay much at all, so it's best not to use them. Garden refuse should make the trip to the pile. All of the spent plants, thinned seedlings, and deadheaded flowers can be included. Most weeds and weed seeds are killed when the pile reaches an internal temperature above 130 degrees, but because the temperature varies from inside to the outer edges, some weed seeds may survive. To avoid problems don't compost weeds with persistent root systems, and weeds that are going to seed. Turning the compost pile on a regular basis lowers the temperature within the pile, and also helps improve the chances of weed seeds surviving. Compost bins may be purchased or ‘home made’. Spoiled hay or straw makes an excellent carbon base for a compost pile, especially in a place where few leaves are available. Hay contains more nitrogen than straw. They may contain weed seeds, so the pile must have a high interior temperature. The straw's little tubes will also keep the pile breathing. The list of organic materials which can be added to the compost pile is long. There are industrial and commercial waste products you may have access to in abundance. Here is a partial list: corncobs, cotton waste, restaurant or farmer's market scraps, grapevine waste, sawdust, hair, hoof and horn meal, hops, peanut shells, shredded paper and cardboard (avoid color printed materials), rock dust, sawdust, feathers, cottonseed meal, blood meal, bone meal, citrus wastes, coffee, alfalfa, and ground seashells. Manures -- Manure is one of the finest materials you can add to any compost pile. It contains large amounts of both nitrogen and beneficial microbes. Manure for composting can come from horses, bats, sheep, ducks, pigs, goats, cows, pigeons, and any other vegetarian animal. Avoid manure from carnivores (pets), as it can contain dangerous pathogens. Most manures are considered "hot" when fresh, meaning it is so rich in nutrients that it can burn the tender roots of young plants or overheat a compost pile, killing off earthworms and friendly bacteria. If left to age a little, however, these materials are fine to use. Manure is easier to transport and safer to use if it is rotted, aged, or composted before it's used. Layer manure with carbon-rich brown materials such as straw or leaves to keep your pile in balance. The important thing is to mix whatever items you're using together into a good balance: browns / greens. Turn the pile if possible. Pay attention to the smell. If the pile smells rotten, things are out of balance with either too much water or too much matted green materials. If you suspect either of these items, try to mix the pile more often, and cover the pile loosely to keep excess rain from soaking in. Don't cover with plastic. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 70 Composting Questions and Answers: Do I need a starter kit to begin composting? -- Those new to composting often ask if a compost "maker" or "starter kit" is necessary. These products are made of dormant fungi and bacteria that become active under the right conditions and begin breaking down debris. These same fungi are already in the garden, present in soil and in finished compost. Adding either of these between your layers of yard waste is enough to inoculate a compost pile and start it working. Do I have to buy a special bin in order to compost? -- A bin is not necessary in order to compost. A pile can be made on the ground with no enclosure. Minimum pile size is three feet on all sides (27 cubic feet) and maximum size is 5' on all sides (125 cubic feet). This allows enough bulk to heat up properly yet not so much that oxygen is cut off to the center of the pile. You can also construct your own compost bins by using an old metal garbage can after you poke holes in the bottom of the can. Or you can use a wide variety of materials to contain the compost. A rotating, enclosed compost bin can be handy, but can also be expensive. If I compost black walnut leaves, will I have problems with juglone poison? -- In the past, it was recommended that no part of black walnut trees be composted, since the toxin, juglone, may not degrade sufficiently and could injure sensitive plants when the compost is used. The latest information indicates walnut leaves can be composted; the toxin in the leaves actually degrades in two to four weeks depending on the environmental conditions. Walnut leaves can be composted separately and the finished compost tested for toxicity by planting tomato seedlings in it. If juglone is present, the tomato seedlings will wilt. Wood chips or fresh sawdust from walnut tree pruning is not suggested for use around plants sensitive to walnut; however, composting woody debris for a minimum of six months provides safe mulch even for plants which are sensitive. How do I know when my compost is ready to use? -- Use only compost that is "finished." Finished compost will be dark and crumbly, have an earthy smell, be within 10 degrees of air temperature, and the pile will be about one-third of its original size. If you use compost as a soil amendment before it is finished, plants in the amended area can develop problems related to nitrogen deficiency or phytotoxicity. To use compost as an amendment, start by turning the garden soil to be amended, then apply compost over the area at the rate of 1" — 3" and turn it in to a 6" — 8" depth (this amounts to about a heaping double handful per square foot). We renovated 300 square feet of lawn this fall and scraped up a thatch layer that was ½ inch thick. Can we compost the thatch? -- It is possible to compost thatch, though it takes longer than other garden debris to break down. You have a couple of options. One is to pile up the thatch separately; add some soil (there may be some soil still attached to the thatch) or finished compost, and a high nitrogen fertilizer in between the layers of thatch. Water the pile occasionally to keep it moist. It may take it a couple of years for this to break down. The other option is to mix the thatch pieces in with your leaves and garden debris in your regular compost pile. Keeping the pile moist and turning it occasionally may help the thatch break down more quickly. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 71 Can I shred my fall leaves and layer them over the perennial garden? -- Applying leaves for winter protection in the perennial garden is a good use. Perennials that are tender, or those that were planted or divided and replanted in late summer or early fall, can benefit from mulch for winter. Shredding the leaves through a mower or a shredder will prevent them from becoming matted as they get wet. Apply a 3" — 6" layer of shredded leaves over the tops of plants to be protected after several hard freezes. This will keep the soil cold and plants in a dormant condition through winter. Usually, this mulch application is made in the first 3 weeks of December or so, but pay attention to weather conditions so you apply it at the correct time. Lawn Repair, Renovation, or Re-establishment Whether you've neglected your lawn, you recently purchased the property and its former owner neglected it, or maybe last year's drought has taken a toll on it, you've made up your mind that it needs help. The amount of revival required and the steps to accomplishing it depend on how much damage there is and how much time, effort and money you want to invest. There are three levels of renovation: • Repair • Renovation • Reestablishment These three levels go from relative ease, to down right dirty. Which method do you need? Repair works for lawns that are in pretty good shape, with a few bare spots, that might need repair. Otherwise, a regular fertilization and weed control program should make a world of difference. Renovation is for lawns that there's just no hope of reviving without years of care, and then it'll still be iffy. Or, you want to change grass types. Out with old, and in with the new. Renovation requires killing the existing lawn, but doesn't require tilling, grading or adding additional topsoil. Reestablishment means replacing and fixing everything: all the old grass is completely removed (no need to kill it); the soil's surface is graded and tilled, new topsoil is added if needed (and it probably does) and amended with other good things like organic matter (compost), maybe lime, or other trace elements determined with a soil test. This last step is really best done by a professional, unless you're able to use some heavy equipment. When renovating or reestablishing your lawn, minimize the time that the soil is bare to the air and rainfall, to prevent erosion of the top soil. Repairing the Lawn – If most of your lawn is in pretty good shape, then you can repair your lawn. The repair option is fixing just those areas that need it, and giving the entire lawn a good dose of tender loving care. Usually some fertilizer is used and even some weed control. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 72 Repairing a lawn requires a good match between new seed/sod/plus with what is already growing so it's a nice blend. For example: if you live in the north and have a blend of bluegrass (very common) and you've got a few dead spots that didn't green-up this past spring, you'll want to plant a bluegrass blend. Don't put in tall turf type fescue because you heard it's really great (which it is). They are two different types of grass that shouldn't be mixed, because they don’t work well together. If the bad areas are small, less than a foot, ignore them. They'll fill by themselves in a month or so. Larger than a foot, then it's time to take some action. Rake out the dead areas, and add any dead grass and leaves to your compost pile. Work in some peat moss good topsoil, compost, or organic potting mix. Or, you can use a hand cultivator to rough up the lawn soil, and put about ½” to 1” of topsoil, organic potting soil, plain potting soil on top of the cleaned areas. Now plant your seed, (following label directions). You may put in matching sprigs or plugs, if available. You can cover seeds with straw, which is good for areas that might be damaged by heavy rain. Otherwise, about 1/4 inch of topsoil, peat moss, or organic potting soil on top will just cover the seed and help it to germinate. Using a lawn rake as shown, or a garden rake, clean out thatch, dead grass, and leaves, and scratch the top of the dirt where you want to plant more seeds. When planting the seeds, don't bury them in the ground. Use just enough top soil to barely cover the seeds (no more than ¼", with less being preferable). After covering, press down on the dry soil with the back of a hoe, or use your shoe and lightly tamp it down, but don't stomp on it. There are many products advertised for patching spots in the lawn. These products contain chemical fertilizers and other filler materials that promote short term growth of grass seeds in the lawn. If you wish to use these products, make sure you match the grass seed type in the patch mix with the type of grass that is in your lawn. Otherwise, these products will not work well in the long-term, or cause more problems later. If you can find sod matching your grass type, you can quickly repair the damaged areas. Follow all of the directions up to the point of planting seed, except for added topsoil. Only remove enough topsoil so that, when placed, the sod matches your existing level. Sod takes about 2 weeks to establish. Keep it watered and don't let it dry out during those first two weeks. Keep the soil moist, but not wet. For seeds, only the top surface needs to stay moist, but (and this is important, especially if the weather turns hot) never let the soil dry out completely, particularly in the last half of the first two weeks after planting. Once seeds germinate, keep the soil evenly moist and increase the amount of water with each watering, but cut back on the number of times you water. In other words, keep the soil moist at a deeper level, (moist— not wet!). In a few weeks things will start to happen, so be patient. Restrict traffic on the lawn, and don’t mow until the seeds are about 3" — 4" tall. Use a ruler to measure the average height of the new grass, and then mow it to 3.5”. Then you can forget about it and just treat it like the rest of the area. Don't use any weed controls on the new grass for a couple of months until it gets really established and hardened off. If you must use weed control, spot treat the weeds, instead of applying an herbicide over the entire lawn. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 73 Renovating the Lawn -- Renovation is used when a lawn, for whatever reason, needs to be totally replaced with a new lawn. The process calls for re-seeding, especially for cool-season grasses, or planting plugs, sprigs or stolons for the warm season lawns. Laying new sod is not usually considered a renovation process, but it is a total replacement. Timing is important depending on your geographic location. For seeding, the process is usually started in late summer so the lawn is established before the first heavy frosts. Warm season grasses are usually done as soon as the soil warms up enough for seeds to germinate in late spring. Cool Season Grasses can be started in Early Spring, or fall, once the weather has cooled from hot summer temperatures. Apply a non-selective herbicide such as glyphosate (Roundup— use the higher strength version). A glyphosate herbicide kills what's on top of the soil as well as what's below the surface, yet doesn't remain active in the soil, so it's safe to plant again. Give the glyphosate time to work. Let the lawn turn completely brown, and then give it another week before continuing. It take 10 days for the glyphosate to break down into harmless substances. Be sure to READ THE LABEL and follow all directions carefully At the end of that additional week, look closely at the lawn. Are there any signs of new growth? Spot treat those areas again. Wait another ten days, and if necessary, spot treat once more. These are important precautions that will pay off in the future. Failure to do this could mean that you'll get unexpected results that will be difficult to correct depending on the situation. Before you renovate your lawn, you must kill all the existing weeds and grass in the lawn. Consider renovation if your lawn is 80% or greater weeds. After everything is dead, mow the dead lawn. It will probably raise a few eyebrows from nosy neighbors, but you can always explain what you are doing. Mow as close as possible—set your mower blades lower, if you can, or have someone else mow the lawn with a low blade setting. Bag or rake the clippings. The remaining dead plants will provide a natural mulch for the new seedlings. Too many dead plants left in place and the new seed will have problems germinating. Cultivate the soil – you will need some power equipment you probably don't own, but can rent, or hire a professional. What you'll need is a dethatcher or power rake. Go over the lawn first in one direction and then in another direction. If your soil is heavily compacted, now is the time to aerate. You can combine the cultivation and seeding process by using a slit-seeder. This actually cuts through the dead turf and plants seed at the same time. Do the same routine of going one direction, and then in another direction. Slit-seeding is only recommended for non-compacted soils. Apply the seed, plant plugs, sprigs, or stolons. For seeding, use a quality seed of a grass type suitable for your climate, and your lifestyle. Use the guidebook found in this chapter to select your grass. Use the rate on the label for establishing a new lawn. If using a slit-seeder, set the rate slightly above ½ the rate and do it in two directions as described above. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 74 Apply either a starter fertilizer or an organic fertilizer over the entire lawn according to label directions. Keep the seeds evenly moist until they germinate. As the seedlings get taller, cut back on the number of waterings, and increase the amount of water applied at one time. The lawn can be mowed when the new grass reaches 3" — 4", (4” is better, and mow down to 3.5”. Don't apply any weed controls, even if some pop up. Wait at least 3 months or till next spring for cool season lawns or the fall for warm season before using any weed controls. When you do apply weed control, spot treat specific weeds with glyphosate, at the recommended rate. You can use the Common Kentucky Weed section in Chapter 6 to learn more about weeds you may find in your lawn. “Do Over” – Re-establishing a Lawn -- Reestablishing a lawn goes a step further than the renovation process. Re-establishing a new lawn is called for when there are serious soil problems or drainage issues that need to be corrected. Re-establishment definitely calls for professional help of some type, if only in the equipment needed to do the work of re-establishment. The basic steps are a little different from the renovation process. In most cases, additional soil, or a compost top dressing is added to correct for slope and drainage problems. Remove any large rocks encountered, but it's not necessary to remove all stones. Ideally, topsoil depth should be at least 4" — 8". So, before you begin to re-establish your lawn, dig a 12” deep hole in the lawn and measure the depth of the top soil. Look at the soil horizon’s to make sure that you have at least 4” of top soil. The “O” layer is the top 2” layer of soil that contains the most organic materials. This layer is where most plants grow, and the microbial activity. Immediately below that is the remainder of the topsoil, (layer “A”). Layer “B” is the root zone, where the roots of grass and other plants grow. If adding topsoil or top dressing, purchase from a reputable supplier. See below to calculate cubic yards needed. Before you add the top soil, it is a good idea to aerate the soil. Run the aerator in one direction, and then at a direction that is at right angles. For drainage problems, run the aerator at least twice. Look at the soil horizon’s to make sure that you have at least 4” of top soil. Once spread, you can till-in new topsoil with the existing soil so it gets mixed thoroughly. However, it is very important to limit tillage so that there are still chunks and clods of soil in the mixture. The chunks and clods help to add oxygen to the soil and promote plant growth. They also help prevent further compaction of the soil. It is very important that you not alter the grade of the soil except to improve drainage. Care should be taken to always have the grade slope away from the house, but it should not block the natural drainage of adjacent properties. Improper grading could cause problems for your neighbors and your neighbors could cause problems for you by making you correct the situation months, even years later, when they discover their backyard now has a pond forming every time it rains hard. Smooth out the soil so there's no dips or high points. For seeding, the soil depth should be about ½" lower than hard surfaces such as your patio or sidewalk. For sodding, it should be about 1-½" lower than these hard surfaces. Don't over compact the soil. Never use a roller on an established lawn. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 75 When you are ready to seed the lawn, a drop spreader works best, compared to a broadcast or rotary spreader. If using a rotary spreader, cut the recommended rate by half and go in two opposite directions. Lightly rake the soil with an upside down rake. Don't over rake and try not to cover the seeds with more than ¼" of soil. Be sure to mulch with straw, (not hay). A bale of straw will cover about 2,000 square feet. A simple rule of thumb is that about half the soil will be visible after spreading the straw. A drop seeder that is pushed. You may apply a starter fertilizer then water lightly and often. But, if your soil test does not indicate the need for a fertilizer—don’t. Never ever let the soil dry out until the seeds germinate which may mean several waterings in one day in hot weather. However, keep the soil moist, not wet. Once the seedlings emerge, begin cutting back on the number of waterings and gradually increase the quantity of water to that it penetrates deeper. Cut the grass when the new seedlings reach about 3" to 4”. Calculating amount of topsoil needed -- Bulk topsoil is normally sold by the cubic yard. To calculate the amount needed, measure the square footage of the yard then multiply that by the depth. For example: 80'wide x 50'long x 3" deep (convert the depth of topsoil desired to a fraction of 12. In this case 3" is actually 3/12= .25'). So, 80 x 50 x .25= 1000 cubic feet. To convert that to cubic yards, divide by 27. 3750/27=37 cubic yards. Add a couple of cubic yards for spillage and settling. Remember that a cubic yard of topsoil is a LOT of dirt! So make sure that you have space to dump the pile when you order it. In many cases, it is best to order a couple of cubic yards and spread the topsoil one area of the yard at a time. If completed over a relatively short time period, there should be no harm to the drainage of your yard. One cubic yard of topsoil. Seeding and Overseeding -- First step in planting lawn seeds is determining which seeds to plant. Besides selecting a grass type that is appropriate for your geographic / climatic conditions, it is a good idea to use grass seed blends. There is no perfect grass for all conditions. Blends of grass will address a range of conditions. Having diversity is important for successful seeding. Using 100% of anything can be a mistake and cause more lawn care in the long run. If a disease or insect comes along that attacks one particular variety, the others should remain in tact. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 76 Buy the best seed that you can afford for the best results possible. Before you buy a bag or box of grass seed, read the label carefully. A label can tell you about the quality of the seed. Poor-quality seed takes just as much work to sow as good quality seed, and will not yield the results that you want. The label on the seed bag is a valuable tool when selecting grass seed. It contains important information that indicates its level of quality. Always review the label before purchasing grass seed to make sure you're getting the right type of grass, with as few weeds as possible, from a reputable source. Here's an example of a seed label with tips on how to decipher it. Purity is the percentage of seeds of a certain type of grass in the bag that you're buying. The sample bag on the right contains approximately 50 percent Kentucky Bluegrass, 30 percent Perennial Ryegrass and 20 percent Creeping Red Fescue. The purity numbers by themselves don't add up to 100 percent, but they should when added to the crop, inert and weed seed percentages. The Lot identifies which farm the seed came from. Don’t buy seed without a lot number, because the source of the seed may be questionable. Germ stands for germination percentage. This represents the number of seeds that will germinate based on the tested date. Germination percentages will naturally decrease as the seed ages. Improper storage in wet and humid conditions will ruin seed as well. If the rate is 85 percent, 85 out of 100 seeds planted will germinate. Your seeding rate can be adjusted slightly if you know what to expect from the germination on the seed label. Turfgrass type or name. In the sample label, the seed mix contains 19.50% “Midnight” Kentucky Bluegrass. In this case, Kentucky Bluegrass is the species of the grass, while the word “Midnight” refers to the variation, by brand name, of the grass. Most seed companies that develop their own varieties of seed, name them so that they may be distinguished from other cultivars. Always read the grass seed label carefully, and purchase the best seed that you can afford. The Creeping Red Fescue listed on the seed bag has no cultivar or variation name. Because no variety name is listed it is considered to be a "common" variety. Common means either 1) the seed is a common variety that has not been improved and may not be of the highest quality; or 2) it is a named variety that failed inspection (i.e., high weed content) and was therefore classified as "common." Either way, there's a high risk that the seed is not high quality and should be avoided. Crop Seeds refer to any seeds in the bag that are not turfgrass or weeds. These are annual crop seeds, such as winter wheat and rye, and may have entered the bag through harvesting or cleaning equipment. They probably won't germinate in your yard or will be removed when you begin to mow. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 77 Inert Materials refers to materials in the bag that will not germinate. It could be dead seed, or parts of seed or stalk, or dirt. Do not buy seed that contains more than 3 percent of inert material. Weed Seed is listed as the percentage of weed seeds in the bag. The higher this number, the more weeds you are buying. If you find an inexpensive bag of seed, check this number because chances are it's quite high. High quality seed will not contain more than 0.2 percent weed seed. The Test Date is the date the germination test was performed. Avoid buying seed more than one year old. Remember, germination percentages decrease with age. The purity and weed seed percentages will not change over time. By carefully reviewing the label before purchasing seed, you can ensure you're getting a high quality product. Although premium seed may cost a little more up front, it will save time and money in the long run. More tips on buying grass seed: • Mixes that contain more than 15% Annual Ryegrass or Annual Bluegrass are generally of poor quality. These are added to blends to “green up” quickly, but won’t last beyond the first year. • Look for germination percentages above 85%. Check the date is was tested and only buy seed tested within the last year. • Best mixes have less than 1% "other crop" seed listed, and should contain no Annual and Rough bluegrass, (Poa annua and P.trivalis). Bentgrass is also not recommended by many lawn professionals. • Producers list percentages for noxious and non-noxious weeds. Buy mixes that contain NO noxious weed seeds. Non noxious seeds are very difficult to remove entirely, (should contain somewhere between 0.3% - 0.5% by weight). • Inert matter includes things like broken seeds that will not germinate and other fillers. This should be well below 1%. To start a new lawn, or re-establish a lawn: 1. Control perennial weeds. 2. Modify the soil if necessary. 3. Aerate the lawn and rough grade the lawn area, if necessary. Allow the soil to settle and re-grade, if necessary. 4. Have the soil tested. Apply corrective quantities of fertilizer and lime, if needed. 5. Remove stones, wood and other debris from the top 3" to 6" of the soil. 6. Allow soil to settle for a week or so. 7. Apply starter fertilizer, (if needed), and rake it in while removing stones, trash, and other foreign material. Fill in any small depressions that are present. 8. Rake lightly-let some seed remain on surface. This newly seeded lawn has been mulched with straw to protect the dirt from erosion until the seed germinates. 9. You may mulch with a light covering of straw.. 10. Surface must be kept moist until seedlings establish. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 78 Sowing the seed -- Sow seed evenly with a spreader. Plan to go over the area to be seeded twice, preferably in a different direction each time. With a low seeding rate, it is easier to get good distribution if something is added to the seed to make more bulk. Several materials such as sand or corn meal may be used. Starter fertilizer may be applied just prior to or after seeding. The soil should be raked lightly to cover the seed with 0.1" - 0.3" of soil. If some seed can still be seen after raking, they have not been covered too deeply. On terrace slopes where erosion may be a problem, stake down burlap, cheesecloth, special netting, or other very thin cloth through which the grass can sprout (preferably bio-degradable). After establishment you do not need to remove this cloth. The lawn should be irrigated and the surface kept moist. This usually means sprinkling the new seeding lightly at least twice a day, sometimes more often, depending on how hot the weather is and how often it rains. After the seedlings emerge and begin to establish, the interval between waterings can be lengthened provided adequate moisture is available for seedling growth. Not every location is grass friendly, in fact, they're downright difficult. Here's a few tips that might just help you get something growing there where you've had a lot of problems. Keep the lawn seed amount as shown above. Leave dirt between seeds, so that the seeds can germinate and grow healthily. Too much lawn seed is a waste of money. Always plant grasses that are most tolerant of the conditions you're trying to establish a lawn. For example, grow shade tolerant grasses in shady areas. Grow warm season grasses in warm season areas of the country. Remember that some seeds germinate more slowly than others, so be patient. Shady areas -- Most cool season grasses do best in full sun. Fine-leaf fescues are the best suited and Kentucky Bluegrass is least adaptable to shady areas. Sodding is not recommended for these shady areas. Sod is grown in full sun and will not handle the transition to dense shade well. Cool season shade tolerant grasses are usually not available as sod. Once an appropriate seed has been established in a shady area, don't over-fertilize with excess nitrogen. Do maintain adequate phosphorus and potassium. Avoid overwatering. Too much nitrogen and water is an invitation for diseases. Mow at the highest recommended height for the grass. If possible, prune low-growing branches from the shade causing canopy to improve light and air movement. Salty Soils -- If the soil has a salt content, it may require irrigation to leach the salts from the soil. (Your local County Extension Agent, or Soil and Water Conservation District can help you with soil remediation.) Remediation usually requires an adequate movement of water through the soil for this to be effective. Select salt-tolerant grasses such as tall fescue, bermudagrass, or Zoysia grass. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 79 Other methods of seeding – There are several methods of seeding available to the average homeowner, other than a drop seeder. Slit-seeding is one method, while plug seeding and a hand held broad cast seeder are also available. Follow the same directions that you would for preparing the soil. In some cases, you will be overseeding, but will then have a greater success with the method used. A slit seeder can be rented at most rental stores. Usually, a professional lawn seeding company is needed to install plugs of specialty grass. A hand-held broadcast seeder may also be used by the Do-it-yourselfer. A slit seeder deposits grass seeds in small slits cut into the ground. If using a slit seeder, it is a good idea to plant the seeds in one direction, and then plant more seeds at a 45o or 90o angle to the original slits. This will enable greater coverage and a more successful planting. It usually requires a professional lawn seeding company to install plugs of grass, such as Zoysia Grass, or even Bermuda grass. While expensive, these lawns often have that professional ‘golf course’ look. A handheld broadcast spreader will work, but it is very difficult to get adequate, even coverage over an entire lawn. If possible, calibrate your equipment before you begin, so that you know the speed of your pace and the actual coverage produced by the broadcast seeder. Post-planting care -- After seedlings reach 2" or so, they may benefit from a fertilizer application. Apply about 1/2 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. (if applying 10-10-10, use 5 pounds per 1,000 sq. ft.). Water after fertilizing, but avoid watering to produce run-off. Begin mowing as turf grows using the 1/3 rule. Never cut off more than 1/3 of a grass plant. Limit heavy traffic during the first growing season. Tender grass seedlings are subject to damage with traffic and irrigated soils are easily compacted. Sod and Sod Installation -- Sod is grass that has already been planted by seed on a farm and then harvested by slicing a very thin layer of topsoil from the top of the soil Then, the sod is either rolled or stacked and sent directly to the installation site. It should be installed as soon as possible. If you must hold the sod a few days before installing, store it in a single layer in a shaded spot. Moisten it often so it doesn't dry out. Prepare the soil for sod installation: 1. The area to be sodded should be prepped by breaking up and loosening the soil. Using a rake, level the area and remove all debris. Note: To allow for the thickness of the sod, soil level should be 3/4" below curbs, walks, and drives. 2. Complete a soil test. Regardless of the time of year you plant the sod, spread a complete fertilizer over the soil at the rate of application recommended by the fertilizer manufacturer for spring and fall feeding before installing sod. Be sure to contact your local County Extension Agent or Soil and Water Conservation specialist to make sure you are applying the correct amounts of fertilizer. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 80 3. Using a rake, work the fertilizer into the soil. A complete fertilizer contains the three important grass food elements, nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium (potash). Fertilizers lacking any of these elements are not complete. Read the analysis on the package before purchasing. For example: 10-10-10 and 10-6-4 are complete fertilizers. 4. Should the weather be exceptionally hot and the soil dry, it is wise to moisten the soil slightly before laying the sod. Sodding may be a faster solution than seeding, but it is also more expensive. This sod has not been completely set, as sod should be laid more like a carpet. 5. When laying the sod, make sure that all edges are butted firmly together and the corners are flush. Overlapping edges will cause uneven turf and make rooting difficult. When the sod is laid, it may appear to have different colors. You shouldn't be alarmed at this as the color will vary slightly because of how the sod was stacked and stored prior to installation. In a few days of regular watering, the color should even out. 6. Start watering IMMEDIATELY after the sod is laid. For the first 7 — 10 days, keep a close eye on your turf. Give it just enough water to keep it from drying out. After that, apply an inch of water every 7 — 10 days, or follow the installers instructions. 7. To measure an inch of water coming from a sprinkler, place a coffee can on the lawn in the midst of the sprinkler’s area. A good watering once per week is usually better for your lawn than light daily watering. Once your lawn is established it is generally better to water in the morning hours. 8. By about the 10th day, allow the sod to dry out enough to mow it. Make sure your mower is in good mechanical condition with a sharp blade. Set your mower on the highest setting, (or at 3” – 3.5”) and mow the lawn very carefully. The frequency in which you will have to mow your lawn depends on weather conditions. 9. Mow the lawn before the clippings are longer than 1". In the spring and fall, mowing may have to be done twice a week due to rapid growth. Mowing heights should be 3” to 3.5" in spring and fall, depending on the variety of grass. 10. Core aerate the sod as soon as it has knitted to the soil (about 2 months). Core aeration will remove cores of sod and soil and deposit them on the surface. This should be done in the spring and fall every year. 11. Following initial fertilization, wait 6 weeks and fertilize again with a complete fertilizer, based on the recommendations of your local Cooperative Extension Agent. Repeat as needed for the remainder of the growing season. Remember that next year, your lawn should already be an established lawn, and you can treat it as such. 12. Weed and crabgrass control chemicals should not be used in the first year. The use of weed and crabgrass control chemicals should only be considered in extreme situations and then only as a spot treatment. Before applying any chemicals, read and follow all label instructions. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 81 Is a sod lawn easier to care for than a seeded lawn? -- A professional laid sod lawn needs no special care except for initial watering because it is a healthy, mature lawn when installed, whereas a sprigged or seeded lawn requires years of nurturing to reach maturity. Sod is grown under expert supervision from top quality certified sod seed. After it has been installed, just water, mow and fertilize your sod lawn as needed and it will remain a healthy, green carpet of grass, requiring very little maintenance. Troubleshooting sod problems -- Most sod varieties will begin rooting within 10 — 14 days. If your sod is not rooting, check watering your schedule and adjust to a deeper, less frequent watering. Shade will slow down the establishment of the roots. If you have bluish-gray spots in the sod, it may be stressed because of lack of water. Increase watering and check or adjust sprinkler coverage. If there are gaps between the rolls, the sod is shrinking due to lack of water! You can increase watering and frequency to minimize gaps. Hand watering the gaps will increase root growth and close the gaps. Mushrooms are a condition of the frequent watering schedule and are a temporary nuisance. As watering gets deeper and less often, mushrooms usually dry up and wither away. Selecting a Professional Lawn Care Company U.S. homeowners are turning to lawn, landscape, and tree care professionals in record numbers. The “Green Industry” services include lawn/landscape maintenance, landscape installation/construction, landscape design, and tree care. Homeowners benefit from the economic and environmental benefits of turf, and save time by hiring a lawn and landscape service. In addition to fertilizing, a professional can tackle the more difficult aspects of lawn care, such as identifying and controlling lawn problems, using the proper equipment, and choosing the right product for your lawn. Hiring the right lawn care service takes a little effort, but the rewards of an environmentally safe, healthy lawn are substantial. The Professional Lawn Care Association of America, (PLCAA), offers these tips to help you select a professional lawn care service: • Determine what you want from a lawn service – Lawn care companies provide a range of services including mowing, maintenance, aeration, seeding, landscaping, fertilizer, and pest control applications, and ornamental and small tree care. • Find out which companies provide service in your neighborhood – Before looking in the yellow pages or answering an ad, ask your neighbors for a recommendation. It is a great way to determine the reputation of a company and the quality of service it provides. • Ask for a lawn inspection and a free estimate of service – Companies that quote a price without seeing your lawn are only guessing what your lawn might need. • Ask about the price system and what services are included – The lawn care company may offer a yearly contract or a simple verbal agreement, giving the customer the right to discontinue service at any time. Find out what happens if you have a problem between applications. Will the service calls be free or is there a charge? Get an explanation of what the service can do; find out what kind and amount of treatments will be applied, approximately when they will be applied, and what results can be expected. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 82 • Make sure the company is licensed and meets insurance and certification requirements– The state of Kentucky and the Louisville Metro Area has licensing requirements for fertilizer and pesticide applicators. This means that the company has at least a minimal working knowledge of the fertilizers and pesticides they are applying to your yard. Customers should insist on proof of state-required licensing. Call the State Department of Agriculture, (phone: 502-573-0282) to check the status of their license or certification. Ask about the amount of liability insurance that the company carries and appropriate worker’s compensation coverage. • Safety factors – Almost all lawn care products use must be registered with the Kentucky State Environmental and Public Protection Cabinet. Some states require posting a sign after a product is applied, recommending that you avoid contact with the turf until the product is dry. Whether posting is required or not, it is a good practice to follow. • Professional memberships – Ask with what professional organizations the company is affiliated. Companies that belong to at least one professional organization usually strive for quality in workmanship. How safe are the lawn care pesticides used by lawn care professionals? Homeowners should be aware that the use of pesticides does pose a risk, and their use can not be made completely safe. The level of risk posed by a chemical depends on its toxicity and the level of exposure. Improper or inappropriate use of pesticides and other lawn care products by either the homeowner or the lawn care professional can increase the level of exposure, which in turn increases the level of risk posed to human health and the environment. What can I do to minimize any risks to me or my family? -- The simplest way to minimize risk is to limit your exposure to pesticides. If your lawn care service is going to apply a fertilizer or pesticide treatment to your lawn, make sure you: • Ask what type of pesticide will be applied, and how much; • Ask that the company provide you with a record of the service, including the amount and type of pesticide, fertilizer, or chemical applied, and keep the record in a safe place; • Ask the company to post signs saying the turf has been treated and leave them up for at least 24 hours or until the grass is dry; • Do what you can to limit exposure to pets, children, birds and other wildlife; and • If someone enters your home by walking on the lawn prior to the complete drying of the lawn, have a washable mat or towel at the door, where they can remove their shoes, minimizing indoor contact with carpeting and other flooring. Do lawn care professionals use products that pose greater risk than those used by the homeowner? -- The pesticides regularly used by lawn care professionals are usually the same as “general use” products available to the homeowner. Licensed lawn care professionals occasionally use “restricted use” products, (materials that are not available to the general public), to solve pest problems that are not responsive to general use products. Be sure to ask whether any restricted-use pesticides will be included in your program. Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 83 Lawn care products are generally labeled with the same rates, the same precautions, and the same usage information whether packaged for personal or professional use. The products purchased by the lawn care professional may be packaged in concentrates for shipping convenience and economy. Before these products are applied to your lawn, they are diluted to the same strength as the ready-to-use products sold directly to the homeowner. References for this chapter are listed in Chapter 9 Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Page 84 Chapter 12 “Green” Lawn Care Appendix I Chapter 12 – “Green” Lawn Care Appendix I Table 1 -- Native Flowering Ground Covers Listed in Guidebook Characteristic Spring Bloom Time Summer Bloom Time Drought Tolerant Scientific Name Common Name Astilbe biternata False Goat’s Beard Chrysogonum virginianum Green and Gold, Goldstar Geranium maculatum, Geranium carolinaium Wild Geranium, Cranesbill Pachysandra procumbens Allegheny Spurge Phlox subulata Creeping Moss, Phlox Tiarella cordifolia Foam Flower Huechera parviflora Rockhouse, Alumroot Huechera villosa Hairy Alumroot Sedum ternatum Sedum, Wild Stonecrop Verbena canadensis Rose Verbena Verbena hastata Blue Vervain, Blue Verbena Waldsteinia fraggrioides Barren Strawberry Geranium mmaculatum Cranesbill, Wild Geranium Huechera americana Alumroot, Coral Bells, Round-lobed Hepatica Phlox subulata Creeping Moss Phlox Sedum ternatum Sedum, Wild Stonecrop Teuerium canadense Germander