Transcript
minicopter
Diabolo „S“ Ord.-No. 4950
Manual
minicopter Rheinstahlring 47 34246 Vellmar Germany +49 561 988 2800
[email protected] www.minicopter.de
Congratulations to your new Diabolo S, one of the fastest model helicopters. This model was created to reach the highest possible speed under highest possible power with best possible aerodynamic. The Diabolo S was designed without any comromise. It is extremly small, the fuselage section has a shape like a symmetrical airfoil to minimize drag. To mount all the mechanics and electronics into it you need some informations what is the intention of this manual. For the basic mechnical assembly you can also use the classical Diabolo manual. The assembling technic of the Diabolo and Diabolo S mechanics are very similar. Only the parts are a little bit different, so there is a part-no. translator attached. This manual was created to show the special differences of this model including some assembling and justation hints. Have fun with the assembly and if you have any questions you can send us an e-mail to
[email protected] . We wish you also a lot of fun with the flights of your Diabolo S!
Recommended equipment: Motor: X-Nova 4535-510 4+4 YY1.6 Pyro 850-50L Pyro 750-50/56 BE Controller: Kosmik 200 Cool14s YGE320HV16s Servos: Servos like BLS451 with max 18mm from mounting surface to upside servo arm FBL-System: BD3-(S)X, AC-3X, V-Stabi Receiver: 2,4GHz Flight battery: 2x7s/4400/>60C -2x8s/3850/>60C Receiver battery: 2s/1600-1800/25-30C (alternativly combine with Kosmik BEC on 8,0V) Rotorblades: DH691 or DH711 These are components we have tested and we can recommend. Of course you can use compinents from other manufacturers too, but you must decide individually if they are ok for the Diabolo S or not.
Maintenance and Security A radio controlled model helicopter and a speed helicopter especially is not a toy. A mistake can result in serious accidents and injuries. So keep the following rules always in your mind: 1- Start always with an Idle Up 1 of about 1600 rpm and switch up to Idle Up 2 first when the model is at least 10 metres high and 20 metres away. 2- Fly high speed passes always with a minimum distance of 50 metres / 150 ft to you. No person should be between you and the model (f.e. modelers with cameras). 3- Keep a minimum flight height of 30 metres. Nore that reaching extreme speeds you reach at the blades tips the transsonic area which can result in particulary stalls on the airfoil. To rescue the model you need a minimum height to react and start actions to save the model. 4- Fly with discipline. Do not fly more passes that you have calculated before. Do never fly deep and closed to enlarge the impressions of spectators. 5- Do not fly with crosswind that press the model in your direction. All aerodynamic bodies, also the Diabolo S are sensitive against crosswinds and can move cross to you more than you have expected. 6- Do not go over your personal limit. High speed flight needs a lot of training and experience that you must learn first. With increasing speed you must calibrate your FBL system perhaps different, modify parametres like headspeed and pitch. 7- Do not fly faster and only so far away how your eyes allow this. The model can climb after a pass very fast heights and distances that are difficult to observe. So be careful. 8- The most important rule: Do never start if you are not absolutely sure that everything is ok! Maintenance: The Diabolo S was designed for a high standard reliability and durability. But that does not mean that you must not do any maintenance. After each flight you should do a check of ALL mechanical parts. Look for loose screws, cables. Check the bearings, gears, all electric connections, ball joints, antennas. The second stage gear must be lubricated. Calculate that after each flight you must add two or three drops from the oil bottle that is in the kit. In each casee it may never run dry. Avoid to fly in a dusty environment and if you do that then climb up fats from the ground to minimize dust in the body. Pitch adjustments: -6°/+5°/+16° Idle up 1: 1600 rpm Idle up 2: 2200 rpm Idle up 3: Max rpm Because we cannot control what a modeler is doing with the model we cannot give any warranty. Vellmar, in February 2014
Part-No. translator Diabolo - Diabolo S The following parts are similar between both models but not the same. So use this tarnslator to find the right part no. if you need any spare. D1 D2 D14 D16 D17 D70 D71 D13 D15 048 033 D7 D5 D4 D21 D46 D43 068 D47 044 D45 D18 D28 D25 D34 902 D20 D89 D23 D50 D58 D104 D91 D32 D90 D52 521 586 047 071 509 100 052 034
upper left side frame upper right frame mainshaft lower mainshaft bearing plate Upper bearings plate First stage bearing Mainshaft bearing Main gear wheel distance bush mainshaft washer shim 0,1mm washer shim 0,2mm gear wheel first stage first stage distance bush main gear pinion tailboom tail pulley tail gear housing tailshaft bearing distance shim washer shim 0,1mm tailrotor shaft roll servo holder vertical U-Profile belt tensioner arm shock absorber landing skids pair distances elevator servo elevator servo screws rear tailservo mounting block swashplate conic distance bush swashplate screw for D58 screw for distance bush distance bush for swash holder screw for D32 mainrotor hub feather spindle damping insert washer shim 0.5mm blade grip bearing inner grip bush thrust bearing washer shim feather spindle spindle screw
D258 D259 D220 D272 D271 D243 D230 D274 D224 D231 D232 D7a D195 D275 D280 D249 D246 D247 D250 D46 D245 D273 D284 D261 D262 D281 D270 D83 D283 D226 D233 D102 D90 D244 D88 D229 D235 D236 757 D238 D239 D237 D242 D234
538 593 110 979 1471 D49 347 D155 -
mainblade grip swash driver distance bush tailrotor hub conic ring tailslider tail bellcrank tailslider guidance bush battery plate Battery plate stopping block
D240 D241 D255 D257 D256 D264 D288 D269 D279
The following parts are new and not in the normal Diabolo manual: D191 D263 D265 D266 D267 D268 D276 D277 D278 D285 D286 D287
support bearing block holder for D262 L-Profile left L-Profile right front skid holder rear skid holder canopy connector 3.5mm canopy connector 4mm triangle plate CF maingear lubrication oil 60ml mounting bush Kosmik battery tray stopping block
This is the mechanic in delivery condition.
Remove the battery plate for the rear flight battery.
Remove the roller. Later the roll servo cables will be placed between the spacers under the roller.
Remove the rear tail servo holder. Do not lose the screw. Keep both parts together.
Open bag 7 and sort the parts on the table.
Start with mounting the flybarless system. We recommend to mount it directly on the U-profile. On the picture we mount a Bavarian Demon HC3X.
Mount the ball joints on the servo arms using for each arm a hex lense screw M3x16 D103, two 3mm washers 002 and a M3 lock nut 008. Attach two rods D54 with four ball joints D72.
The overall length of both roll servo rods should be 103 mm about.
Insert the left roll servo into the frame. Look that the cable is going downwards.
Fix the servo with four hex screws M3x12 D84 and washers 002 using Loctite on the screw thread. Do not overtighten the screws. Then the thin bushes in the rubber blocks would be compressed.
Now mount the right roll servo in the same way.
Look that both cables are placed as shown.
The screws are easier to mount if you look before attaching the screws into the hole to what direction the thread is going about. The rubber blocks are elastic so during mount it is not always guaranteed that the thread is also in the center of the bush. After attaching all screws it will be centered.
Mount the screws using Loctite on the thread.
Two plastic blocks must be mounted on the elevator servo with four hex screw D84 and washers 002 (use no Loctite!). Note that the block D270 on the cable side is 2 mm higher than the block D299 on the other side.
Blocks in mounted condition.
Length of elevator servo arm should be 102.5mm.
The small triangle carbon part makes it a little bit difficult to insert the servo but a servo like Futaba BLS451 definetly fits. If you have problems then loose for the servo mount the three lense screws of the triangle a little bit and tighten them again when the servo is placed.
Mount the upper block with two hex screw M3x10 D83 (no Loctite!). Do not overtight the threads in the blocks.
For the lower block use two hex screws M3x8 D82.
Cut the rubber grommet D80 with a knife and insert the servo cable. Then insert the servo connector into the hole of the CF frame and finally press the grommet in.
All servo cables should be under the mechanic right now.
Now mount the roller block. The best is to attach first the screws and from inside the spacers. Then add the roll servo cables between and add Loctite on the screws threads. Then add the roller block. During tightening have an eye on it that the cables are not squeezed beteen the contact planes of the parts. The result (with a contacted impulse cable) could be sudden movements of the servo arms.
For better identification when you plug in the connectors in the flybarless system it makes sense to add a „R“ and „L“ on the roll servo cables.
Install the cables as shown on the pic.
The tail servo holders should be mounted with four hex screws M3x12 D84 and washers 002 using Loctite. Note that the block with the countersunk hole is placed on the cable side. The fuselage is very narrow at this area so a countersunk screw is necessary there.
Insert the tailservo in the shown way. A MKS 980 servo just fits into the frame, also of course the smaller Futaba BLS 251/256. On the servo the arm must be attached with a screw using Loctite. If you are not sure if the arm is in the right position on the toothed shaft then do not mount the two screws that fix the servo mounts on the frame. Tighten them after FBL calibration, but do not forget it!
If you are sure the servo arm is in correct position then add the countersunk screw M3x12 471 on the rear servo block using Loctite.
Accordingly mount the front block with a hex screw M3x14 D85 using Loctite.
Now plug in the connectors into the FBL system. Important: After you have mounted all plugs in the system fix them with hot glue that they cannot come out under vibrations. This suggestion is independent from the type of used flybarless system.
Press all cable length that is not necessary under the Uprofile. There is a lot of space for cables and the upper side looks very nice without unnecessary cables.
Attach a piece of double sided foam (about 3mm or 1/8“) on the reiceiver.
Place the receiver, here a Futaba 6303SB, as shown. If your receiver is bigger you find alternative places under the Uprofile, outside the frame or on the additional gyro platform.
Add now the swashplate body D226 on the justation help D289 on the mainshaft.
Mount the left servo rod using a hex lense screw M3x12 D102 and a conic spacer D233. For maximum safety here add righ Loctite on BOTH threads and remove unnecessary Loctite at once.
The swash plate guidance is made from a hex screw M3x25 D90, a brass spacer D55 and a conic bush D233. Add also with rich Loctite on both ends.
Check that brass bush is moving free in the guidance after tightening the screw.
Add the swash guidance D32 using two hex screws M3x25 D90 and two spacers D244 using Loctite.
Have a final check that the swash guidance is parallel to the mainshaft.
Now prepare the rotorhead. Open bag 8 and sort the parts on the table. The big washer shims are not necessary and only added for individual tightening of the spindle.
The length of the linkages is about 62 mm.
Attach the linkages on the arms with two hex lense screws M3x12 D102 using Loctite. Note that the joint with the left thread (marked with a small ring) is upwards (mounted on the blade arm).
Add the two joints bolts M3x4 076 on the swashplate using Loctite.
Mount the swashdriver arms D65 as shown in the pic using Loctite. The screw for mounting on the hub is a hex lense M3x10 D101 with a washer 3x6x0.2 455, the outer one is a M3x12 D102 that is screwed into the bush D241. Finally the joint 385 is fixed with a cross screw M2.5x12 509 (no Loctite!). Finally mount both units on the hub using Loctite.
Put the rotorhead on the mainshaft. Do not forget to loose the two black M3 screws in the hub before.
Fix the rotorhead with a special M4 jesus bolt M4 D78.
Tighten both black screws M3x12 D119 using Loctite. After tightening you can press the links 385on the joint bolts 076.
Mount the linkages on the swashplate using hex lense screws M3x12 D102 using Loctite.
Now the mechanic should be in the shown condition. We continue with the motor mount.
Open bag 6 and sort the screws on the table. Dependend from the motor type (some motors need very short M4 screws there are two lengths included. If possible use always the longer ones.
Mount the motor using four M4 hex lense screws- Note that the rounded contour of the motor carrier is showing to the front.
Attach the pinion on the motor shaft. The delivered pinion is normally 20T with 6mm shaft. There are also pinions with 8mm hole available, also pinions from 15-22T with 6mm shaft and from 18-22T with 8mm shaft. If the motor shaft has no flat spot then add one at the end of the shaft (mark the position before, pinion should be 0.5-1mm away from the lower motor carrier plane).
Tighten now the grub screws M4x5 D35, beginning with the one on the flat spot.
Now install the motor using four hex screws M3x8 and washers 3mm 002 using Loctite. The plastic gear wheel is a high temperature high tech polymer that is uncritical against any heat. You should feel a small but noticable play between pinion and gear wheel. For 21 or 22T pinions you must file the long holes 0.5 or 1mm to the front using a needle file. During mount press the motor down that it is really vertical.
Now the mechanic should be in this condition.
Remove from the front end of the tailboom with a flat file a part of the anodizing as shown on the picture. This is necessary to eliminate electric noise from the belt.
Now press the boom carefully in.
Look that all cables are between boom and U-profile and that no cable will be hurt when you insert the boom into the front clamp.
Adjust the boom that it is some millimetres out of the front clamp.
Now insert provisorically the brackets into the tail housing to find the right orientation of the boom for tightening.
Remove the rubber band.
After pulling the belt thru the boom with a long wire with bended end put on the tailrotor housing that the screws of the brackets fit fully in the slots of the boom. Lokk in the housing that the brackets are vertical. If not yet then open the screws a bit more.
Insert the tail pulley into the belt from the side that has no washer yet and put it into the tail housing.
Now put the tailshaft D245 in and look that the belt is positioned completey on the pulley.
Tighten the belt pulling the tailboom outwards. Note that on the Diabolo S there is not much tail thrust necessary and on the other hand the power lost of a too much tightened belt should be as low as possible. So do not tighten the belt too much. Pull with about 2 kgs / 4lb. After finding the best position tighten the screws in the boom clamps (Loctite!) and then tighten both lower right clamp screws.
Finally attach the tail servo rod in the usual way that is shown in the Diabolo manual. Note that the length of the rod is here some mm longer than in the Diabolo.
Fuselage mount Pull the tailbelt thru the boom (a wire with a bended end works best). Remove with a file or sanspaper the black anodizing a little bit at the front end so that there is an electric contact between frame and boom. Insert the boom with the clamp into the frame.
Attach the screws for the tailboom clamps with Loctite 243. Tighten the lower right screws first when you have tightened the long screw D93 in the boom clamps.
Now press the boom careful in the fuselage tail. Look that the foam on the boom will newhere be damaged. This foam is necessary to eliminate noisy resonance vibrations from the fuselage. Note that the fit between fuselage and mechanic was factory tested and so you should use no force for the mount.
The lower left mounting screw must correspond with this hole. In the pics only the preassembled mechanic is shown. Of course you must finish the mechanic first before you insert it. Also it is highly recommended to make the first tests and justations with naked mechanic.
If the holes are concentric then use for the mount a hex screw M3x12 and a lock nut M3. Look that all electric cables are free and no mechnical part is touching the fuselage. Start as shown with the lower left screw. Do not tighten the screw too much. Note that there is wood between that could be unneccesary compressed.
Now do the same procedure with the lower right screw.
Then attach the upper right screw. To get the holes concentric you must press now the end of the boom to the upper end of the fuselage (compress the foam).
Finally mount the upper left screw.
When you mount now the landing bows be careful that you do not scratch the surface of the fuselage. To minimize this risk press first the wire into the front hole. Look before that holes in the fuselage and landing bow holder under the mechanic are corresponding. If not then open the four fuselage mounting screws again and press the fuselage a little bit in teh right direction. Alternatively you can widen the hole with a thin needle file.
Now turn carefully the wire and look that you do not make scratches on the fuselage. A bit of masking tape can help to avoid this.
Now, holding the front end in, press the rear end into the slot. Take care that the hole in the fuselage and in the rear skid holder of the mechanic are corresponding. Press the skid as long in as the radius is reached. If you look from inside the skid should end exactly at the inner edge of the skid holder. If not then move it as long if this is the case.
Then tighten the rear grub screws using Loctite 243 with a long 2mm hex driver. Take care that the landing bow wire is not coming out of the block. The batteries could be damaged from it.
Tighten now the front screws using also Loctite 243.
The tailgear mount is different to the normal Diabolo because you have no access to the boom clamps. So you must tighten the mechanic correct before you insert it into the fuselage (we have done this for you). For easier mount now remove the rubber ring from the belt tensioner. Take care that the belt is in the correct orientation (90° to the right from parallel belt position).
Note that the tailgear must be ready assembled with bellcrank and fin (not as shown). The tightening blocks D43a must be mounted and the screws attached with Loctite 243. Now press the gear housing on and look that you feel an and (where the boom has contact with the end of the inner housing).
Tighten the screws, look inside that they are parallel together and that the tail fin is parallel to the mainrotor shaft.
To mount the belt wheel the right washer shim of the wheel (on the side without grub holes) must be removed. Then put it in over the belt (Careful! Do not damage the belt).
Add the washer shim (side with the cone to the left/belt side). Have a look that you use the correct holes and not the holes that are used from the other washer shim.
Then tighten the washer shim using three lense screws M3x6 D99 and Loctite.
Now add the small special washer that fits exactly in your tail housing. Do not loose it. It was made induvidually. To be on the safe side you can measure the shim with a digital caliper and if you later would loose it we can turn a new one for you that fits perfect too.
Then add the tailshaft and tighten it with two grub screws M4x4 #573. The shaft end is corresponding with the outer end of the left bearing.
For mounting the front canopy widen the upper rear end and move the front part over the mechanic. Look that you do not hurt any cable.
For mounting the front part the slot between the fuselage part must be ALWAYS parallel and all the five connector pairs must correspond together. Note that we have spent many time that it fits perfect, so you need also time and patience to mount it (removing it in panic situations is much faster).
If you would ever damage a spring cage of a male connector you can use a normal 4mm connector #1964 and must simply remove the spring with your thumb nails and then press it carefully onto the front bolt.
It is necessary for high speed flight to attach about 6“/15cm of clear tape on each side before each flight. During turns with zero forward speed the front fuselage could else be opened a little bit what is reducing speed.
The slot between the two fuselages parts should be nearly zero now.
For easy removal of the tape turn the lower 5mm about that they are free from the fuselage. So in urgent situations the stripes can be removed within one second each.
