Transcript
Foot Projects > of the Month > Fleece Scarf with Passementerie Trim Passementerie is the art of making braids or trims for the purpose of embellishing. You can use your Brother Braiding foot to create a unique passmenterie trim for a fleece scarf. Learn about the versatility of this foot for crafting a variety of trim accents. In this project we will show you how to make a scarf using your Brother serger. Then, you will learn how to use the braiding foot to make and apply custom trim to a contrast band. You will enjoy using these same techniques to embellish more of your own custom creations.
Materials and Supplies
Brother Sewing Machine Brother Serger SA141 Brother Braiding Foot SA186 Brother Metal Open Toe Foot Brother Polyester Embroidery Thread or good quality sewing thread for stitching the trim. SA5810 Brother Pacesetter® Medium Weight Tear Away Stabilizer
Additional Materials, Supplies, Fabrics, and Notions:
Lightweight polar type fleece fabric, ½ yard of 60-inch wide fabric for scarf and Passementerie trim. NOTE: Do not directly iron the fleece. Two pieces of soft wool felt measuring 3-inches wide by 18-inches long for embellished contrast bands on scarf. NOTE: We chose wool felt for the trim. As an alternative, select another soft but ravel resistant fabric such as washable wool, faux suede, or even a firm knit. Basic sewing notions including a large eyed tapestry needle and a sewing stiletto. Three spools of serger thread for finishing scarf. We recommend one spool of ordinary serger thread and two spools of wooly type nylon. As an alternative to the wooly type thread you can use three spools of standard serger thread for finishing the scarf edges. A rotary cutter, ruler, and mat are highly recommended for accurately cutting all pieces used in this project.
Instructions for Creating the Scarf 1. Cut a piece of fleece for the scarf measuring 14-inches wide by 60-inches long. From the remaining fleece cut two narrow strips across the entire cross grain of the fabric, having each strip measure ½-inch wide. Set aside these narrow fleece strips to use for trim. 2. To prevent scarf corners that appear too pointed and misshapen, trim all four points at the ends of the scarf. *See Figure #1.
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Figure #1
Foot Projects > of the Month > Fleece Scarf with Passementerie Trim 3. Set up the serger for a wide, three thread balanced stitch. Use the wooly type thread in the upper and lower looper with ordinary serger thread in the needle, or use ordinary serger thread in all three locations. NOTE: Wooly type thread is the preferred choice as it compliments the fleece fabric. However, ordinary serger thread requires less tension adjustments and is easier for a beginner to use.
Figure #2
General serger settings are as follows:
Thread tensions: Standard for ordinary thread. Loosen upper and lower looper tension when using wooly type thread.
Stitch length 2-3.
Differential feed setting between 1 and 1.5
NOTE: Fleece has a greater amount of stretch along the crosswise grain of the fabric. We will use this to our advantage when making the trim. When serge finishing along these edges you may need to increase the differential feed setting to a higher number.
Figure #3
4. Practice serging on your scraps until you have achieved the proper settings. Next, serge finish both long ends of the scarf, trimming away a slight amount as you serge *See Figure #2. Trim the thread tails close to the end and serge finish both short ends. *See Figure #3. Use a tapestry needle to weave loose thread tails under the stitches. *See Figure #4. Clip excess tails.
Instructions for Embellishing the Scarf with Passementerie Trim 1. Set up the sewing machine for ordinary sewing using the same color thread in the top and bobbin. Please read the paragraph about the braiding foot before you sew. To prepare the fleece strips for couching, pull tightly on each strip, causing it to curl under and decrease in width. Cut the end at an angle. Next, feed one piece of fleece trim into the braiding foot, using the stiletto to push it through the opening. *See Figure #5. 2. Cut strips of tear away stabilizer the same width as your contrasting band but slightly longer in length. Select your first contrast band piece and place the tear away against the wrong side. Stitch over the trim using a Ric Rack stitch set for a width of 5mm and a length of 4mm.
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Figure #4
Figure #5
Foot Projects > of the Month > Fleece Scarf with Passementerie Trim Be sure to guide the edge of the band so that the trim is attached at a distance of ½-inch from the long edge. *See Figure #6a and Figure #6b. Repeat the process for the opposite side of the band. Embellish the second band piece in the same manner as the first. 3. Carefully tear away as much of the stabilizer as possible and lightly press the bands. To stitch the first band to the scarf, place the band on one end, positioning it 3-inches from the end. Trim the short ends of the band so they are even with the scarf. Pin the band in place. Change the machine to the open toe foot and select a narrow zig zag stitch or a stem stitch to use for attaching the band. *See Figure #7. Sew the band to the scarf along each loose edge. *See Figure #8a and Figure #8b. Repeat the process for the opposite band.
Figure #6a
Figure #6b
Figure #7a
You are finished! Options and Ideas:
Experiment with this technique on future projects. You can apply passmenterie fleece trim to a wide selection of garments and crafts.
Test different stitches to use for attaching the trim. Many of the stitches seen in Figure 7a are suitable for this technique. Experiment with width and length setting on scraps.
Adjust the opening on the foot and try different trims. Always make sure your fabric is stable or that you have used appropriate stabilizer underneath.
Make a matching headband using remnants from your scarf project.
Consider adding a monogram to the scarf if your machine has embroidery capability.
Figure #8a
Figure #8b
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Foot Projects > of the Month > Fleece Scarf with Passementerie Trim ABOUT THE BRAIDING FOOT In this project we used the braiding foot to attach, or “couch” the narrow strips of fleece. Couching is a common term used for attaching trims to fabric. We stretched and rolled the fleece strips to form unique cording for this project. The braiding foot is generally designed to accommodate standard trims such as soutache, soft cording, or other flexible trims. For best results look for trims that measure approximately 3mm to 5mm in width. Generally, if a trim is flexible and will easily flow through the foot, then it is suitable to use. Depending on the stiffness or softness of your trim you may find that slightly wider trims can also be used for this application. Notice that you can turn the top screw to adjust the opening for different trims. Adjust the opening larger or smaller to keep your trim secure. In addition, the foot is designed with a groove on the bottom to help the trim flow smoothly. Remember, it is important for the trim to flow easily through the opening in the foot. When guided in this manner you do not have to worry about keeping the trim straight. Simply guide the foot where you want the trim to stitch and the trim will follow accordingly. We used a stiletto to help feed the trim into the foot. A dental floss threader is also a useful tool for this purpose. Sometimes it is easier to feed the trim into the foot prior to attaching it to the machine. Note that it is important to feed the needle thread through the opening on the foot before you start to stitch. Pull several inches of thread underneath the foot before you begin stitching. To begin stitching it is often helpful to place a small piece of tear away stabilizer under the foot, and then begin stitching onto the stabilizer first. Afterwards you can push your fabric up to the foot and resume stitching. If your fabric is soft or stretchy it is advisable to place stabilizer under the entire length of stitching. For the best results, always test your stitches with the same settings, fabrics, and trims you will use for your final project.
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