Transcript
Frequently Asked Questions For 1:6 Scale R/C Cars This guide of frequently asked questions should help you with the most common problems or questions with your 1:6 Scale R/C Cars. It is helpful to keep your instruction booklet (included with your vehicle, or available for download) handy, it should be used as a reference guide while you become familiar with your car. It includes many drawings and suggestions to help keep your car running at its best. There may be several solutions to each problem.
What is covered by the warranty? The warranty only covers defects in materials and workmanship for a period of 30 days. Please contact us with any questions about warranty coverage. Excessive wear and tear to the car may void any warranties and is under the discretion of Team Up. Team Up will cover the cost of the replacement parts and the shipping and handling to and from your location, if your car is approved under warranty.
Should I try to repair my car myself? Please contact us before attempting to repair your car, if under warranty. A technician will instruct you on what your options are. If your car is sent to us for repair, any part that needs to be replaced will be at your expense, if your car is no longer under warranty. You may send your car to us at anytime for repairs. If you return your product to us, please include: Name, Shipping Address, Phone Number, Proof of Purchase with purchase date (if under warranty), and a brief description of the problem to: Team Up International 4545 Enka Highway Morristown, TN 37813
Can I buy replacement parts? Replacement parts are available; for order information, please contact us.
When I pull the transmitter trigger, there is no sound from the car. Check the batteries in the transmitter, makes sure they are fully charged, and installed properly. Make sure the 12V battery has been fully charged and is connected properly. Check the fuse to see if it is blown, if so replace the fuse. (See manual for details) The control board may have shorted out, and will need to be replaced, or the motor may be blown, but it will normally make a clicking noise if this is the problem.
When I pull the transmitter trigger, the car only makes a clicking noise. Check the fuse to see if it is blown, if so replace the fuse. (See manual for details) The control board may have shorted out, and will need to be replaced, or the motor may have blown. Normally when you hear a clicking noise, the motor is the problem.
When I pull the transmitter trigger, the motor is running, but the car is not moving. These cars have three gears inside the motor housing; the largest of the three has three internal plastic gears. These three internal gears may have stripped out and the large gear will have to be replaced. This problem has been address with later releases or newer models of this car. The three internal plastic gears have been replaced with metal gears to reduce breakage.
When I pull the transmitter trigger, the motor is running, but the car barely moves. As referred to in the question above, the gear may still be the problem but may not be fully striped, however that is normally not the situation. When the car barely moves, it is normally due to the axles. The axle refers to the A-shaped clear plastic piece on both sides of the motor housing and the metal shaft that runs through it. On the end of the metal shafts where it connects to the motor housing, there are hexagon shape nuts that fit into the housing. These hexagon nuts are actually sleeves that fit over the ends of the axles. The sleeves can become unsoldered and be loss, allowing the motor to turn the axle, but only slightly. You can either replace the entire axle or re-solder the sleeve back to the metal shaft.
Car moves erratically or transmitter range is short. Check the batteries in the transmitter, makes sure they are fully charged. Make sure the transmitter antenna screwed in tightly and is fully extended. Make sure the car antenna is upright in the provided tube. Check to see if there are any other cars running at the same frequency in the area. There may be radio interference in the area – try changing locations. If you are still having a problem, there is probably a bad connection on the control board in the car and will need to be replaced.
My car keeps blowing fuses or smells really hot. The reason for these problems are not fully known and are being researched. However, if enough dirt or dust gets into the motor or motor housing, it can cause the motor more friction making the motor try to pull more current. In return, the fuse blows. This can also be the case for the hot smell; dirt and dust may become hot inside the motor, making a burning smell. Try blowing out the motor
with air, and try to keep your car clean. If the problem continues, you may need to send your car for repairs.
I am unable to get the front tires to align straight. Due to the power of the car, the tires are designed to have some tow-in and are not suppose to be completely straight. Using the alignment adjustment on the bottom of the car, try finding a center point for the tires. The front of the both tires should be pointed inward about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. Try running the car and adjusting the alignment as needed. If you are still unable to get the tires straight, you can apply pressure to the tires, physically bending them to a desired direction. However, DO NOT apply too much pressure or you may break the rods or motor that turn the wheels.
What is the difference between the Base Model and the Hobby Grade Model? The base model has two frequencies (27 and 49 Mhz), 120+ Scale MPH, Full Function control, 100+ yard range, and will include front and rear impact bumpers in future production runs. The Hobby Grade model has six frequencies (each driver has a designated frequency), 120+ Scale MPH, Full Function control, 50+ yard range, front and rear impact bumpers, digital proportional steering (controls the degree of a turn according to the amount of turn on the transmitter steering wheel), and variable speeds (controls speed according to the pressure applied to the trigger on the transmitter).
What is “Scale Speed?” Scale Speed is calculated by multiplying the “Actual Speed” of the car (20+ MPH) by the “Scale Factor” of the car (this is a 1:6 scale model, therefore you would use 6). 20 X 6 =120 Scale MPH.
Can I race my car with other cars that have the same frequency? No. If you have two cars with the same frequency, one transmitter will run both cars or will cancel the other out. You must have two different frequencies to race your cars. The base model only has two frequencies; 27 and 49. However, the hobby grade model has six frequencies specific to each driver. The frequencies for the base model cannot be changed, but the hobby grade model can with proper tools and parts.
Do R/C Hobby Shops carry parts for these cars? No. All the components for our 1:6 car were designed/created exclusively for us and standard R/C shop parts do not work for our products.
What other driver shells are available or are there clear shells that can be painted?
We carry Dale Earnhardt (#3), Dale Earnhardt Jr. (#8), Jeff Gordon (#24), Jimmie Johnson (#48), and Tony Stewart (#20). Under license agreements, we do not sell clear or blank shells for custom jobs.
Why do the shells break so easily? The plastic that is used to make these shells are not your standard PC (polycarbonate) bodies. The weight of a PC body for this scale of car decreased the overall speed and performance. That is the reason that we redesigned the chassis with front and rear impact bumpers to help reduce the amount of breaks to the body due to a collision.
Do the tires wear out and how long do they last? The tires do wear out and will need to be replaced occasionally. The life of your tires depends on a few things; the amount of use, the surface the car is used on (hotter surfaces will blister and wear the tires quicker), and the way the car is controlled (wear to the tires is accelerated by drifting, sliding, or peel-outs).
Are there quick chargers for these batteries? No quick charger is available for these batteries, and there are no plans to make one at this time.
What is the typical run time for a fully charged battery? The average run time for a fully charged battery is about 15-20 minutes, depending on the way the car is controlled, peel-outs and drifting use more energy.
How long should I wait before I run my car with another fully charged battery? It is a good idea to let the car cool down for about 15 minutes before running the car again. This allows the motor to cool and prevents shorts and blown fuses.
How long should I charge my battery and is the amount of charge time really important? It is very important to follow the charge times suggested in the manual. A battery will form a memory, and if improperly charged, it will decrease the runtime of your car. For example, if you charge your battery halfway and run it until it is dead, then charge it halfway again, your battery will “remember” that cycle. The next time you charge your battery, even if you charge it fully, it may only retain a half charge because of the memory. Basically you should let the battery run until it is dead, and then fully charge it for the next run. With a new battery you should let it charge for 14 hours, and then recharge the battery for 10 hours each use thereafter.
Is it normal for the battery or charger to become hot while charging?
The battery and the charger will get warm/hot while charging. It is suggested to charge the battery on a hard, non-flammable surface that will not be harmed by heat, such as a metal table or concrete floor.
What can I do to keep my car running at it’s best? Basically follow the guidelines in the manual (available for download). Do not get it wet, stay on hard surfaces, away from sand, gravel, and dirt. Use in large uncrowded areas, allow plenty of room to operate, and keep the car and transmitter out of direct sunlight for prolonged periods of time. It is wise to clean the car after each use, and use an air-spray can to blow out any dirt or dust that may be in or around the motor and motor housing.
