Transcript
©2007 BOB’S SPACE RACERS’S®
BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
BOB’S SPACE RACERS®, INC.’S ONE-YEAR NEW EQUIPMENT WARRANTY 1. INCLUDED IN THIS WARRANTY Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc. warrants to the original purchaser only that the equipment that is the subject of this sale conforms to its specifications, and is free from defects under normal service for a one-year period from the original date of delivery. This warranty does not include any damages resulting from occurrences listed in Paragraph 2 below. This Warranty is not transferable under any circumstance. Any claims under this warranty must be received in writing by Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc. within 13 months from the date of delivery. Within a reasonable time of such written notification Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc. will replace or repair any defective component of the equipment or part thereof which fails for reasons other than normal services, use, or wear. Light bulbs are specifically excluded from this warranty and shall be the sole responsibility of the purchaser. Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc., within its sole discretion, makes the final determination as to whether to repair or replace any component and whether any such repair or replacement shall be performed where the equipment is located or at its home facility in Volusia County, Florida, or another facility of its sole choice. Any and all freight charges for the purposes of repair or replacement shall be paid by the original purchaser. All defective parts shall be returned to Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc. if requested. Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc. does not warrant that the equipment will meet any original purchaser’s specific requirements or that the operation of the equipment will be uninterrupted. These remedies are the original purchaser’s exclusive remedies for breach of warranty. 2. EXCLUDED BY THIS WARRANTY. Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc. does not warrant (a) any product, components or parts not manufactured by Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc.; (b) damage caused by use of the equipment for purposes other than those for which it was designed; (c) defects caused by failure to provide a suitable installation environment for the equipment; (d) damage caused by unauthorized attachments, modification, or service; (e) damage caused by normal wear and tear or improper power supply; (f) damage caused by accident or disaster such as fire, flood, lighting and wind; (g) any other abuse or misuse of the equipment. 3. EXCLUSIVE WARRANTY. THE FOREGOING WARRANTY IS EXCLUSIVE AND IN LIEU OF ALL OTHER WARRANTIES OR REMEDIES, WHETHER WRITTEN, ORAL OR IMPLIED. THERE ARE NO WARRANTIES WHICH EXTEND BEYOND THE DESCRIPTION ON THE FACE HEREOF. ANY AND ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, COURSE OF DEALING OR USAGE OF TRADE ARE HEREBY EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMED AND EXCLUDED. 4. REMEDIES LIMITED. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES, EXCEPT TO THE EXTENT PROHIBITED BY APPLICABLE LAW, SHALL BOB’S SPACE RACERS®, INC. BE LIABLE FOR ANY LOSS OR DAMAGE, DIRECT OR INDIRECT, SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL ARISING OUT OF THE USE OR INABILITY TO USE THIS EQUIPMENT INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO ANY CLAIM FOR LOSS OR PROFITS, LOSS OF SAVINGS OR REVENUE, LOSS OF USE OF THE EQUIPMENT, OR ANY ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT, FACILITIES OR SERVICE, DOWNTIME, THE CLAIMS OR COST(S) OF THIRD PARTIES INCLUDING CUSTOMERS, AND INJURY TO PROPERTY. Some states do not allow limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts or the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitations or exclusion may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state. 5. NO OTHER WARRANTIES. Unless modified in writing and signed by both parties, this agreement is understood to be the complete and exclusive agreement between the parties, superseding all prior agreements, oral or written, and all other communications between the parties relating to the subject matter of this agreement. No employee or representative of Bob’s
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS® WATER GAME™ GROUP ® Space Racers , Inc. or any other party is authorized to make any other warranty or to assume any other liability in connection with the sale of its equipment. 6. TIME LIMIT FOR CLAIMS. Any claim for breach of warranty or claims under this warranty must be received in writing by Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc. within 13 months following delivery of the equipment. 7. FUTURE CHANGES. Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc. reserves the right to reserve, change or modify the construction and design of its equipment or any component part or parts thereof without incurring the obligations to make such changes or modifications in present equipment. 8. ALLOCATION OF RISKS. This agreement allocates the risks of equipment failure between Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc. and the original purchaser. This allocation is recognized by both parties and is reflected in the price of the goods. THE PURCHASER ACKNOWLEDGES THAT IT HAS READ THIS AGREEMENT, UNDERSTANDS IT, AND IS BOUND BY ITS TERMS. 9. TO OBTAIN WARRANTY SERVICE. The original purchaser must, at his own expense, bring or ship the equipment to an authorized location for service. Additionally, the original purchaser must pay all freight, shipping or transportation charges for the return of the equipment from Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc. to the original purchaser. Telephone or write: Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc. 427 15th Street Daytona Beach, Florida 32117 Telephone number 386-677-076 FAX 386-677-0794
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS OR COMMENTS, PLEASE CALL OUR SERVICE DEPARTMENT AT
1-386-677-0761
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WATER GAME™ GROUP
Federal Communications Commission (FCC) Statement Note: This equipment has been tested and found to comply with limits for a Class A digital device, pursuant to part 15 of the FCC Rules. These limits designed to provide reasonable protection against harmful interference when the equipment is operated in a commercial environment.
This
equipment generates, uses, and can radiate frequency energy, and, if not installed and used in accordance with the instruction manual may cause harmful interference to radio communications.
Operation of this
equipment in a residential area is likely to cause harmful interference in which case the user will be required to correct the interference at his/her own expense.
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*SERVICE POLICY* At BOB’S SPACE RACERS®, INC., our strength lies in the high quality, long lasting equipment we manufacture. Should the need arise, we maintain both Technical Support and Customer Service staff. Technical Support is available whenever you should need it. The direct technical ‘hot line’ is (386) 677-0761. This line is manned 8:30 am - 5:00 pm, EST, Monday through Friday, excluding holidays. During all other times an operator will be available to relay your problem to the technician on call. Technical Support will assist you in troubleshooting a service problem or setting equipment options. Customer Service telephone lines are manned 8:30 am - 5:00 pm, EST, Monday through Friday, excluding holidays. Customer Service staff can be reached at (386) 677-0761 they will also take parts orders and research the status of previous orders. As always, you can call (386) 677-0761 to reach all other departments, or you can FAX anyone at BOB’S SPACE RACERS®, Inc. by calling (386) 677-0794, 24 hours a day.
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ADVANCED REPLACEMENT POLICY After speaking with our Technical Department it may be necessary for Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc. to ship an assembly item or part to repair your game. We will ship the item(s) according to your preference via United Parcel Service, Federal Express, US Postal Service, etceteras. Note: we will not ship anything to P.O. Boxes via the US Postal Service. You will be billed, per your account status, for the total cost of the shipment (which includes shipping charges). Upon shipment of the new item(s) a Return Merchandise Authorization Number (RMA #) will be issued for you to use when returning the defective item(s) to Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc., or you may use the order number. After the defective item(s) is received by Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc. your account will be issued either a: 1. Warranty credit: if your game is under warranty. (See the Warranty Policy page.) Note: this credit does not include return shipping charges. OR 2. Credit for the item(s). Note: this credit does not include return shipping charges, nor does it include the repair charges for the item(s).
If the item(s) cannot be repaired to the point where it could be shipped to another customer as an Advanced Replacement item (i.e. cosmetic damage), we will ship your original item(s) back to you. You will be required to return the Advanced Replacement item(s) or pay for it. You will be responsible for all shipping charges, should you decide to not keep, and pay for, the Advanced Replacement item(s).
ADVANCED REPLACEMENT ITEM(S) SHIPPING RULES When you request an Advanced Replacement item from us, we have a few rules for you to follow: 1. DO NOT try to repair the defective item(s) on your own; DO NOT disassemble the defective item(s) prior to returning it to Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc. – this could cause further damage and the possibility of you not receiving any credit at all on the item(s). There are not any user serviceable parts inside, and our vendors may void their warranty on disassembled parts. (Please review the last paragraph of the Advanced Replacement Policy.) 2. Wait for the Advanced Replacement item(s) to arrive prior to returning the defective item(s). 3. When the new item(s) arrive, verify that it is the correct part. If it is not, please note what the differences are and contact Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc. 4. Return the defective item(s) in the exact same packaging the Advanced Replacement item(s) came in. This insures no more damage will be done to the item(s) during the return shipping. Thank you for your cooperation.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION AND SET-UP Manual Introduction
1
Set-Up and Hook-Up – Trailer Models
2
Installation – Park Models
3
Set-Up illustrations – Vertical Park Models
4
Set-Up Illustrations – Ramped Water Games
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Installation – Center Joint
8
Front View – Center Water Game
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OPERATION Game Operation
13
Push Button Stations
14
Push Button Station Wiring
15
Game Options
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Race Game Options Version GM2101 and Later
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Race Game Options Version GM2301 and Later
19
MAINTENANCE Scheduled Maintenance
21
Test Switch
22
Back-Up Systems
23
Winterizing the Game
24
Operating a Water Game in Below Freezing Temperatures
26
TECHNICAL DATA 2100 Electronics 2100 Series Electronics
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2100 Microprocessor Board Overview
27
2100 Microprocessor Board Drawing
28
2100 Microprocessor Board / Schematics
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Master Controller Wiring Pinout
33
Unit Controller
34
Unit Controller Wiring Pinout
35
LC Display Module Overview
36
LC Display Module –Front View
36
LC Display Module – Back View
37
LCD Interface Schematic
38
Relay Board
39
Small Relay Board Schematic
40
Stepper Motor Controller Board Overview
41
Stepper Motor Controller Board Schematic
42
Stepper Motor Controller Board Wiring
43
Troubleshooting Guide
44
2300 Electronics 2300 Series Electronics
47
2300 Microprocessor Board Overview
47
Network Overview for Group Games/2300 Electronics
48
Power Up Sequence for Version 2330 and Later
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2300 Microprocessor Board Drawing
50
2300 Controller Board – Master Wiring Pinout
51
2300 Controller Board – Unit Wiring Pinout
52
2300 Relay Board Overview / Drawing
53
2300 Relay Board Schematic – BSR1110
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2300 Relay Board Drawing/Schematic – BSR1120
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2300 Relay Board Drawing/Schematic – BSR1130
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Relay Board Overview
59
Relay Board Schematic
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS® Stepper Motor Controller Board Overview
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Stepper Motor Controller Board Schematic
62
Stepper Motor Controller Board Wiring
63
BSR9010 Input/Output Board
64
Win Light Relay Board Wiring (Prior to June 1998)
66
2300 Series Troubleshooting
68
Vertical Track
71
Vertical Track Illustrations
73
Horizontal Track
75
Car Channel Sub Assembly
76
Top Spin Actuator Overview/Maintenance
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Top Spin Mech. Assembly Drawing
79
Top Glo Overview
80
Top Glo Fluorescent Bulb Replacement
81
Top Glo Mech. Assembly Drawing
83
Footswitch Wiring
84
Front Counter I.D. Light and Valve Wiring (Prior to June 1998)
85
Front Counter I.D. Light and Valve Wiring (As of June 1998)
86
Front Counter Component Layout (Vert. Water Prior to June 1998)
87
Front Counter Wiring (Prior to June 1998)
88
Front Counter Relay Board Wiring (Prior to June 1998)
89
(Binks Water Gun Parts List
90
Water Gun Handle Assembly (Machine Gun Style)
91
Gun Mounting – Old Style
92
Gun Mounting – New Style
93
Gun Assembly
94
Dynarod
95
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WATER GAME™ GROUP
Vertical Water Tank Back (Prior to June 1998)
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Vertical Water Tank Back (As to June 1998)
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Center Water Stock Chute (Prior to June 1998)
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Center Stock Chute (As of June 1998)
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Top Glo Tank Back (As of June 1998)
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Vertical Water Power Supply Layout (Park Model – Prior to June 1998)
101
Center Water Power Supply Layout (Prior to June 1998)
102
Center Stock Chute Power Supply Layout (As of June 1998)
103
Parts List
104
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INTRODUCTION AND SETUP
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP INSTALLATION Park Models
First, decide on a location for the game. Place the base of the game (where the targets are located) in the desired location. On a Ramped Game, the Ramped section attaches to the base with hinges and pins. The size of the game will determine how many “helping hands” will be needed to help lift the Ramped section into place. Lift the Ramped section and align the hinges on the bottom of the Ramp with the hinges on the back of the base. Insert the pins through the hinges. Raise the rear of the track up and place the support 2 X 4’s under the corners and center braces (depending on the number of units). Each of the braces is numbered, so match braces and support numbers. Bolt braces to supports with bolts and washers provided. On a Vertical Game, the first thing to do is screw the wings to the sides of the base. Raise the Top and place on top of the Wings. Slide the Top towards the front and bolt the Top to the Wings with the bolts provided. On large units, the center tracks screw to the back of the Base to that the shelves do not sag. Set the Counter 24” in front of the Base. A Threshold will be located at one end to allow wires to be urn from the Base to Front Counter. On very large games, there may be a threshold located at each end. Set the Threshold in place and run wires through it. Hook up the Wire Harness to the Amp connectors under the Countertop and the Water Supply Hose to Manifold for the Guns. On most games, there will be two or more 110VAC power cords for the game power. The Water Pumps run on 220VAC. NOTE For Top Spin and Top Glo Games there is a R-Pin (R-Clip) securing the mechanism during shipping. There should be a hole in the walkway doors– remove the pin. Make certain you replace the pins during travel.
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INTRODUCTION The Water Game™ Group Owners Manual will comer Vertical Water, Ramp Water, Top Spin and Top Glo Games. The Water Game™ Group Owners Manual is divided into several sections beginning with the Set-up and Operation and continuing with Maintenance of the game and pertinent Technical information. The Appendices cover such topics a Accounting Systems, Operators’ Guide, and Sound System, etc. The Troubleshooting Guides contain enough information so that the game can be repaired with little difficulty. If this information is not sufficient, a call to Bob’s Space Racers® will provide additional assistance. Between the Manual and the personal assistance, downtime of the game will be minimal. (When you call, we assume that you have read the Manual and tried the suggested repairs.)
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TRAILER INSTALLATION, SET-UP AND HOOK-UP Power Requirement: 220V, 60 Cycles, Single Phase 1.
Locate trailer and drop Leveler Jacks. Level the trailer, front to back and right to left. Unwind lead line from hitch. Remove hitch and store out of the way.
2.
Unlock awning doors. Raise the doors by use of key switch at the corner of the trailer.
3. Put pins in awning prop rods; release pressure from Hydraulic Pump by turning the key the other direction. Remove key. 4. Run Lead Line through floor beside the rear door. 5. Hook-up White wire to the Neutral (Common). The Red and Black hook to opposite 110 volt phases. Green is Earth Ground. NOTE: Use power checker to check for 110 volts on both hot lines. CAUTION! Be sure of correct voltage: 220V, 60 Cycle, Single Phase. NO MORE!
BLACK WIRE: 110V AC GREEN WIRE Equipment Ground
WHITE WIRE: Common/Neutral RED WIRE: 110-V AC
EQUIPMENT GROUND
COM MON
G R E E N
R E D
W H I T E
B L A C K
----------110V-------------------110V-------
-------------------------220V--------------------
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TRAILER INSTALLATION, SET-UP AND HOOK-UP Power Requirement: 220V, 60 Cycles, Single Phase 6.
Raise marquee top and secure with prop rods. Unload ends of marquee from inside game and attach to marquee sides. The ends plug into the sides with a Black Amp plug. Check for bad or broken bulbs. NOTE: Make sure Safety Cables are used when raising the Marquee. Install bally curtains.
7.
Check operation of game; check for any bad or broken lights and flash game.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS® WATER GAME™ GROUP INSTALLATION OF PARK AND BUILDING MODELS Bob's Space Racers® installs all Park and Building Model Games 95% of the time. If you desire to install your game by yourself, we can send separate instructions on how to do so. First, decide on a location for the game. Place the base of the game (where the targets are located) in the desired location. On a Ramped Game, the Ramped section attaches to the base with hinges and pins. The size of the game will determine how many “helping hands” will be needed to help lift the Ramped section into place. Lift the Ramped section and align the hinges on the bottom of the Ramp with the hinges on the back of the base. Insert the pins through the hinges. Raise the rear of the track up and place the support 2 X 4’s under the corners and center braces (depending on the number of units). Each of the braces is numbered, so match braces and support numbers. Bolt braces to supports with bolts and washers provided. On a Vertical Game, the first thing to do is screw the wings to the sides of the base. Raise the Top and place on top of the Wings. Slide the Top towards the front and bolt the Top to the Wings with the bolts provided. On large units, the center tracks screw to the back of the Base so that the shelves do not sag. Set the Counter 24” in front of the base. A Threshold will be located at one end to allow wires to be run from the Base to the Front Counter. On very large games, there may be a threshold located at one end. Set the Threshold in place and run wires through it. Hook up the Wire Harness to the Amp connectors under the Countertop and the Water Supply Hose to the Manifold for the Guns. On most games, there will be two or more 110VAC power cords for the game power. The Water Pumps run on 220VAC. NOTE: For Top Spin and Top Glo Games there is a R-Pin (R-Clip) securing
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WATER GAME™ GROUP
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Back in the Stock Chute – fasten neon wires in each track by inserting a screw through screw tie on the wires and into the left hole of each track. Loop the neon wires into the blue boxes and connect each black wire to a red wire – replace the covers on the blue boxes. Replace the false floor now. Install the neon on the Stock Chute and make all connections on the inside of the Stock Chute. Lay floor panels in place. Install trough covers if they were removed. Install back doors on bases that cover up the electronics area. Install end panels between Unit #1 and #14.
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INSTALLATION Center Joint Read ALL instructions before beginning this installation. The Water Game™ comes in multiple pieces. Before beginning identify the following parts: The Bases (where the targets are located) The Front Counter (where the guns are mounted) The Stock Chute Four Stock Chute supports Running Lights Water Pumps Light Arches Tracks Neon for Stock Chute The first thing to do is locate where the game will be situated. Next, square up one side of the game (square it with the area it will be located). You may start with either side of the game. Square the other side of the game with the first one. The space between the two sides will have to be larger than the actual area needed, to accommodate the floor joists. Install the floor joists (2 X 4’s) in the joist hangers on the first (squared)d side. Slide the second side in and secure the between the sides at both ends to assure the distance is equal. Square the game up be measuring from corner to corner, across the Bases (like an X). Both measurements must be the same or the game won’t be square. Screw the kick board to the floor joist with #8 X 1 ¾” flat head wood screws. Once they are screwed in place measure the distance from side to side of both kick boards. The next step is to level the game. The top of the counters must be level at both ends and center (both sides). Next, install the pump hoses under the low side of the front counter. The black rubber hose with two hose clamps is the drain hose. Install it below the “T” between the two pumps using the hose clamps. Take the two red hoses and install them on the end of the watts valve. |Use the hose clamps to attach them. The red hose that connects on side to the other is located on the high side of the game, coiled up inside the counter. I(t will go under the floor, from one side to the other, through the hole and to the bottom of the pump. The top hose will go up through the counter where the pump is located. The large black hose connects both sides of the game tanks, to each other. Use the hose clamps to secure both ends. Check to make sure there are no leaks. The next step is to install the End Panels under the Gun Counters. They are numbered, check the correct number for each base/end. There are bracket on each End Panel to secure in place on each side at both ends. Next go to the center of the side your working on where you placed the end panel and install the center brace, top and bottom. They are also numbered. Screw in place. Next install the front. This will attach to the End Panels at each end and the Center Braces. Check for the correct number. Before removing the braces with the bolts that hold the front counter to the base you need both side panels connected, both center braces, and both Front Panels that run from one end to the
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other. There is a bar in the center of the front counter, which attaches to the front, which holds the gun counter up away fro maintenance purposes. The next step is to install the columns. They are numbered for positioning on each end of each base. Attach with carriage bolts with washers and nuts on the inside of the Bases – leave these loose for now to facilitate the installation of the Stock Chute. The end with the Sound System is located over Units #1 and #14 – away from the door end, which is Units #7 and #8. Line up the Stock Chute on the columns and attach with carriage bolts and nuts and washers. Tighten up all column bolts to draw everything together. The next step is to install the Light Rings to the Stock Chute using carriage bolts and nuts and washers. The arch with a harness on each end is the high side arch - when the arches are installed connect up both ends of harnesses – over #14 Unit the harness passes through the hole and is connected to the Flasher harness – at #7 and #8 end, the two harnesses connect together. Next install all the Light Channels to the Stock Chute and Light Rings. All locations and channels are numbered. Plug the harness from each channel into the plug on the light ring and then lay the channel into place and screw down. Next feed the three long harnesses down through the Stock Chute Columns and into the bases under the floor. Connect the harness to plugs on the bottom of the metal trough at Units #7 and #8. Plug the harness at #14 Unit into outlet on wall of base under the floor. Plug the cords from the low side base at #1 Unit into the outlets under the floor at #14 Unit. Connect the harness that goes between Units #7 and #8 – the plug is located under the metal tough next to where the Stock Chute harness plugged in. Next step is to install the Tracks. Remove each track from the box and remove the front cover from the Track. The screws are located down each side of the Tracks – Track is numbered to correspond to a unit number. Before the Tracks can be installed you must remove the false floor in the Stock Chute and remove the board that urns the length of the Stock Chute on each side, next to the Square holes. Now each Track can be inserted into the Square Holes of the Stock Chute and then into the Square Holes of the Bases. The Black Neon wire is the Top and the end with the black plug on wires is the bottom – the wide opening of the track faces the outside of the game. When all tracks are locked in place then re-attach the long boards previously removed in the Stock Chute. While in the Stock Chute fasten the top of the tracks to the board with screws. Leave the left screw out for now. Make sure the chain is on the sprocket. Nest, in side the base, remove any tape on the bottom of the tracks. Pull the chain and wire harness out of the tracks and screw the tracks in place. Attach each plug to corresponding socket on the top of troughs. Lift up the motors against the spring and slip the chin over the sprockets. Test each track by moving the chain up and down with your hand to make sure they are not bound up in any way. Next, install the fronts of the tracks. The neon wire is the top and goes into the Stock Chute. Attach all screws to the sides of the tracks to hold on the fronts. Caution: Do not over tighten these screws or the tracks will bind up during operation – just snug is good.
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Attach the toys to the tracks by sliding the plate into the holder on the track. Back in the Stock Chute – fasten neon wires in each track by inserting a screw through screw tie on the wires and into the left hole of each track. Loop the neon wires into the blue boxes and connect each black wire to a red wire – replace the covers on the blue boxes. Replace the false floor now. In stall the neon on the Stock Chute and make all connections on the inside of the Stock Chute. Lay floor panels in place. Install trough covers if they were removed. Install back doors on bases that cover up the electronics area. Install end panels between Unit #1 and #14. Install door between Unit #7 and #8. Game is ready for water and power.
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OPERATION
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GAME OPERATIONS 1.
Collect money.
2.
Activate the Player positions by kicking the footswitch at the base of the unit. Notice that the small ID light turns on and stays on.
3.
Repeat Steps 1 and 2 for each participant.
4.
Start game by first activating the Sounds System (if applicable) by pressing the bottom push button on either and of the game. As soon as the sound starts, push the Forward and bell buttons at the same time. The water pumps will immediately start pumping and as the target micro switches are depressed, the Toys will start moving.
5.
The first Toy to reach either the top of a vertical game, or the finish line of a horizontal game, will be the Winner. The globes will stop flashing and only the Winner’s globe will light up. The bell will ring for two seconds and, after a predetermined time, the game will automatically go into Reverse to bring all the Toys back to their original position.
6.
Repeat entire procedure. Also see Appendix Section, “OPERATORS GUIDE”.
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PUSH BUTTON STATIONS 1.
FORWARD: Pressing the “Forward” button will start the game and turn on the Forward I.D. Light.
2.
CB OFF:
Pressing the “CB OFF” Button will reset the game and return the Toys to Home position.
3.
STOP:
Pressing the “Stop” Button will pause the game and shut off the Water Pump.
4.
TOP PUSH BUTTON: Pressing the “Top” Push Button will activate the Sound Unit.
5.
BOTTOM PUSH BUTTON:
Pressing the “Bottom” Push Button will ring the Bell.
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GAME OPTIONS Over the years, the Water Race games have not changed very much until 1993 when we changed from relay circuitry to a microprocessor based electronic system. The reason for this change was to bring the games up to current standards for safety by using low voltage circuits and stepping motors for increased accuracy in the game and dependability and low maintenance cost. The newer microprocessor board games have various options to set motor speed and bell time, etc. See Race Game Options.
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WATER GAME™ GROUP
RACE GAME OPTIONS Version GM2101 (For 2100 Models) Enter Options by turning the keyed switch on and wait until the message comes up as follows: REG # 01 =-### This means that the system is ready to accept changes in the Options. The MODE button sequences through each “REG” displaying the value in that Option register. The UP and DOWN buttons increase or decrease the value of the current register. The change is NOT made permanent until the ENTER button is pressed. This also advances to the next register. Pressing the MODE button before pressing ENTER leaves the register unchanged. ***NOTE: The Registers can NOT be changed in the middle of a race and if REGISTER 00 is changed, the game MUST be powered down. ***
Reg #
Default
Reg 00
Game Type
Reg 01 Reg 02 Reg 03 Reg 04 Reg 05 Reg 06 Reg 07 Reg 08 Reg 09 Reg 10 Reg 11 Reg 12 Reg 13 Reg 14 Reg 15 Reg 16 Reg 17 Reg 18 Reg 19 Reg 20 Reg 21 Reg 22 Reg 23 Reg 24 Reg 25 Reg 26
0 0 1 1 50 0 0 0 4 80 70 0 0 10 3 See Game 0 0 0 20 10 0 0 0 0 0
UNIT OPTIONS Definition 0=Water Game, Start at Bottom and Win at Top 1=Water Game, Start at Top and Win at Bottom Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use System Parameter-DO NOT CHANGE Time Win Light Stays on in 0.1 sec. increments Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Course Motor Speed Adjustment Fine Motor Speed Adjustment Max Time in seconds the motor can Reverse Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use System Parameter –DO NOT CHANGE System Parameter –DO NOT CHANGE NUMBER OF UNITS in GAME Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Time Bell stays on after Win in 0.1 sec Time from End of Race until New Race Starts Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
RACE GAME OPTIONS Versions 2301 through 23XX (2300 Models) ***NOTE. In 2300 Models, Options cannot be changed from the Front Panel Board; instead, they are changed from the LC Display in the back of the game near the Master Board. Enter Options by turning the keyed switch on and wait until the message comes up as follows: REG # 01 = ### This means that the system is ready to accept changes in the Options. The MODE button sequences through each “REG” displaying the value in that Option register. The UP and DOWN buttons increase or decrease the value of the current register. The change is NOT made permanent until the ENTER button is pressed, This also advances to the next register. Pressing the MODE button before pressing ENTER leaves the register unchanged. ***NOTE: The Registers can NOT be changed in the middle of a race and if REGISTER 00 is changed, the game MUST be powered down.***
UNIT OPTIONS Reg #
Default
Reg 00
Game Type
Reg 01 Reg 02 Reg 03 Reg 04 Reg 05 Reg 06 Reg 07 Reg 08 Reg 09 Reg 10 Reg 11 Reg 12 Reg 13 Reg 14 Reg 15 Reg 16 Reg 17 Reg 18 Reg 19 Reg 20 Reg 21 Reg 22 Reg 23 Reg 24 Reg 25 Reg 26
0 0 1 1 50 15 **20 25 30 **25 3 55/80 **100 0 3 50 5/10 3 **2 See Note #2 0 0 0 20 10 0 0 0 0 0
Definition 16 - Start at Bottom 17 – Start at Top Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Kicks of Foot Switch System Parameter – DO NOT CHANGE Time Win Light Stays on in 0.1 sec System Parameter – DO NOT CHANGE System Parameter – DO NOT CHANGE System Parameter – DO NOT CHANGE Course Motor Speed Adjustment Long/Short Track: Fine Motor Speed Adjustment Max Motor Reverse in Seconds System Parameter – DO NOT CHANGE Reserved For Future Use System Parameter – DO NOT CHANGE System Parameter – DO NOT CHANGE Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Time Win Bell stays on in 0.2 Time End of Race until New Race Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use
*NOTE: #1 – Short Track is less then 15 feet #2 – For software version GM2300 – GM2330 this register value was set for number of units in your game. For GM2332 this register value equals 60 – Time to Start Beacon. #3 **DEFAULT – special settings for the Top Spin and Top Glo Games.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
RACE GAME OPTIONS Version GM2101 (For 2100 Models) Enter Options by turning the keyed switch on and wait until the message comes up as follows: REG # 01 = ### This means that the system is ready to accept changes in the Options. The MODE button sequences through each “REG” displaying the value in that Option register. The UP and DOWN buttons increase or decrease the value of the current register. The change is NOT made permanent until the ENTER button is pressed, This also advances to the next register. Pressing the MODE button before pressing ENTER leaves the register unchanged. ***NOTE: The Registers can NOT be changed in the middle of a race and if REGISTER 00 is changed, the game MUST be powered down.***
UNIT OPTIONS Reg #
Default
Reg 00
Game Type
Reg 01 Reg 02 Reg 03 Reg 04 Reg 05 Reg 06 Reg 07 Reg 08 Reg 09 Reg 10 Reg 11 Reg 12 Reg 13 Reg 14 Reg 15 Reg 16 Reg 17 Reg 18 Reg 19 Reg 20 Reg 21 Reg 22 Reg 23 Reg 24 Reg 25 Reg 26
0 0 1 1 50 0 0 0 4 80 70 0 0 10 3 See Game 0 0 0 20 10 0 0 0 0 0
Definition 0=Water Game, Start at Bottom and Win at Top 1=Water Game, Start at Top and Win at Bottom Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use System Parameter-DO NOT CHANGE Time Win Light Stays on in 0.1 sec. increments Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Course Motor Speed Adjustment Fine Motor Speed Adjustment Max Time in seconds the motor can Reverse Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use System Parameter –DO NOT CHANGE System Parameter –DO NOT CHANGE NUMBER OF UNITS in GAME Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Time Bell stays on after Win in 0.1 sec Time from End of Race until New Race Starts Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use Reserved For Future Use
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
MAINTENANCE
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE DAILY Check all Footswitches Check all I.D. Lights Check all units for good movement Check all Winning lights Check Accounting System Check water level Remove all trash or dirt Clean screen over Pump Intake in tank Clean all Formica
WEEKLY On Horizontal Games: clean out tracks Change Water Filter Alternate Water Pump Being used Lemon oil all Formica
MONTHLY Clean Dynarod with 3M pad (scotch Brite green) Wipe dry and re-submerse in tank
SEMI- ANNUALLY Horizontal Games: Check chain adjustment Lubricate chains, rear sprockets, and cars Clean screen filter in Watts valve Vertical Games: Check motor mounts and springs for free movement Lubricate top sprockets and chains Clean screen filter in Watts’s valve
33
BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
TEST SWITCH (2100 and 2300 Electronics) NOTE:
The individual Toy Speed Adjustment was eliminated in games with the 2100/2300 Series Electronics that were manufactured after 1992. Instead, the overall speed of the game is adjusted by a couple of values in the Option Registers (see Race Game Options).
To test the overall game speed, a test switch was incorporated into the electronics to allow the Operator to run the Toys without playing the game. The Test Switch, which is a Key Switch, is usually located on the right hand side of the electronics enclosure. By turning this switch to the ‘ON’ position and kicking each unit’s footswitch, the Toys can be moved by pressing the Forward Switch. After the Test Switch has been activated, the Bell will ring for two seconds. The Toys will stop when they reach the end of the track. To return the Toys to the ‘HOME’ position, press the Stop button and the toys will return ‘HOME’. To return the game to its normal operation, just turn the Test Switch to the ‘OFF’ position. The Bell will ring for two seconds to signify that the game has returned to normal operation.
34
BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
BACK-UP SYSTEMS Most water games produced by Bob’s Space Racers® Inc., include the Back-Up System Option. This system consists of an extra power supply and an extra water pump. TO CHANGE QUICKLY FROM ONE POWER SUPPLY TO ANOTHER: 1.
Turn off All Game Power
2.
Disconnect the power supply wire harness for the AC and DC side, reconnect them to the spare power supply. Make certain thee is a secure fit for both the AC side and DC side of the spare power supply.
3.
Turn the game power back on. Game should be ready to play.
TO CHANGE FROM ONE WATER PUMP TO THE OTHER: 1.
Unplug first pump; plug in second pump.
2.
Close valve on output of first pump and open valve on output of second. NOTE: It is critical that the valves be switched so as not to damage the Water Pumps. If uncertain about what needs to be done, please call Bob’s Space Racers® and ask to speak to a Technician.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
WINTERIZING A WATER GAME “A Frozen Game Can Be Very Expensive” This procedure is to Winterize the Game during off Season Empty the water tanks (for the guns) down to within one inch above the top of the drain. If the drain is on the side, drain the water to an inch above the top of the side of the drain. The suction line is on the very bottom, it needs to be drained to where you have about an inch of water in the pan. Then you will add Approximately 6 gallons of conventional (glycol based) anti-freeze. Winterizing Procedure: Start up the game and let the pumps run for approximately 4 to 5 minutes. Next, to ensure that you have the proper protection, you check the tank water with a Hydrometer for the brand of anti-freeze you use. The readings should be between 26 degrees below and 42 degrees below, that’s the amount of protection present. That is how low the temperature will need to go before that water will freeze. When that water freezes it can crack the case of the pumps and the front counter manifold and anything else. Run the guns until you can see foamy action in the water when you shoot beside the target pan. Repeat the process for each gun. The next step is to swap from one pump to the other. (See Owners Manual in the Backup System section). Run the second pump for at least 2 minutes. Check the anti-freeze solution with a hydrometer again to assure proper protection. Add more anti-freeze if necessary. If you need to add more anti-freeze, repeat the “Winterizing Procedure” to ensure you have the anti-freeze thoroughly mixed. Drain the tanks and if it is a trailer, remove the plugs from under the front of the trailer to drain the bottom ends, either with a sump pump or removing the drain plugs. *The anti-freeze solution we recommend is NOT environmentally safe, you need to determine the correct disposal procedure. If you have more than one winter game you can reuse the collected antifreeze after doing each one. Have the anti-freeze properly disposed of when you are done with all the games. Remove the paper filter cartridge housing and discard the filter cartridge. Wash the housing and place it near the filter unit. Remove the guns from the hoses. Permit the hoses to hang extended to provide draining of all contents now or later. Store the guns indoors. *To ensure ALL water and anti-freeze is completely out of the system, remove ALL of your tank screens, to assure no rodents get inside the plumbing. This could be very costly next season. If your game has Relay Electronics, we recommend that you place a plastic bag or wrapping of some type around the Master Control Box to prevent weather and dirt from entering, which may cause problems next season. If your game has batteries, you will want to remove them from the game and store indoors, as they also will freeze. (An example of this is the battery of the awing of a trailer). If you have any questions or concerns in regard to these procedures, contact Bob’s Space Racers® and ask to speak to a technician. They will help you with any questions or concerns you may have.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
OPERATING A WATER GAME IN BELOW FREEZING TEMPERATURES This is to establish the amount of anti-freeze required to protect a Water Game while operating below freezing. The volume of water required for the gun system will vary with size of game. Tank must be filled one (1) inch above the pump inlet screen. We recommend that you use *Recreational Vehicle Anti-freeze. The instructions on the anti-freeze tell you how much to mix based on what temperature you want protection too. We recommend the use of a hydrometer (for that Manufactures Anti-freeze) to tell you what temperature you are protected too. Add the appropriate amount of Anti-freeze for the amount of protection you want. Run the system to thoroughly circulate the water. Shoot each of the guns beside the target pans until you can see a little milkiness or foam to the water where it runs down the back wall. This is to ensure that anti-freeze is throughout the system. Next, swap pumps (See Back Up System of your Manual). Run the pump for about five (5) minutes and shoot some of the guns. If the anti-freeze is not correctly circulated, and allowed to even its distribution in the water, the water is protected at different temperatures in different parts of the system. If is important to thoroughly circulate the water! Next, check the anti-freeze protection by use of the hydrometer. If you have anti-freeze, repeat this process from the beginning of the paragraph. Hint: Use a hydrometer while you are running the first pump and after the gins have been fired. Get the protection a little better than you want. That way when the anti-freeze mixes with the water in the lines and unused pump the protection may be reduced some but hopefully it will still be where you want it so you don’t have to repeat the process to often. Note: This guideline is to be used as an approximate reference. To further insure your game from freezing, test the anti-freeze according to anti-freeze manufacturer’s instructions. This can be bought at RV Supply stores. They use it in the Holding tanks for the drinking water. It is considered safe (in case someone sprays someone else with a water gun or comes in contact with the water any other way). Read the Safety Instructions on the Anti-freeze you buy.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
TECHNICAL DATA
38
BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
2100 SERIES ELECTRONICS
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
2100 SERIES ELECTRONICS In 1993, Group games became available with either relay circuitry or microprocessor electronics. The reason for this was to bring the games up to current standards for safety by using low voltage DC circuitry instead of line voltage and relay contacts. The use of Stepping Motors and circuit boards increased accuracy and dependability in the game while maintenance and down time was decreased. See Component and Wiring Layouts throughout this Section.
2100 MICROPROCESSOR BOARD 2100 MICROPROCESSOR BOARD The inputs on this board are on J1, the outputs are on J2 (see Pinout for corresponding LED’s and their functions). The inputs (J1) are ground seeking which means to check an input you simply ground the input’s corresponding front and back pins and the LED should light up – if it is good. These LED’s are tied to Opto-couplers which convert the 12V circuit to TTL for the board. The output pins (J2) are open collector to ground (the bottom row of pins are +12V). If the LED is on, the output is working because the LED’s are tied directly to the output pins. DO NOT short a front and back row pin on the output connector together. If the output was good, and you did that, then the output isn’t good anymore. Connector J3 is the +12V (pin 4) and ground (pins 2 and 3) power input plug. Connector J4 is an RS232 communications port. There are 2 full RS232 ports on this connector. One can be configured as an open collector serial communications, which is the typical application in this port. In this configuration, a single wire is used for serial communication. Connector J5 is NEVER USED on the board. Connector J6 is a BSR Serial Communication Port. J6 is used to communicate with serial devices (if installed) such as sound boards and LCD’s. The microprocessor we use is a Hitachi 6305 (U9). This is a 1-chip mini-computer and contains several I/O ports. The EEPROM memory chip (U11) is a programmable chip that has been programmed for the game’s application. The registers inside the chip can be changed by using an LCD and Option Register Sheet. Near the middle of the board is a Lithium Battery, optional, (BT1) which is used as a battery back-up for the RAM chip (U12). It is only used on games that require a memory backup.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
2100 Board Layout
41
BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
2100 MASTER CONTROLLER BOARD PIN-OUT DEFINITIONS SERIAL DEVICES
OUTPUTS Port B D0 (J2 – J33): Port B D1 (J2 – J31): Port B D2 (J2 – J29): Port B D3 (J2 – J27): Port B D4 (J2 – J25): Port B D5 (J2 – J23): Port B D6 (J2 – J21): Port B D7 (J2 – J19): Port A D0 (J2 – J17): Port A D1 (J2 – J15): Port A D2 (J2 – J13): Port A D3 (J2 – J11): Port A D4 (J2 – J9): Port A D5 (J2 – J7): Port A D6 (J2 – J5): Port A D7 (J2 – J3):
Ser Exp Buss #0: Not Used Ser Exp Buss #1: Not Used Ser Exp Buss #2 (EEROM): Not Used Ser Exp Buss #3 (LCD): LCD Display/Controller Ser Exp Buss #4 (RTC): Not Used
Not Used Not Used Not Used Not Used Sync Out Not Used Not Used Not Used Win Bell Game On (water pump) Not Used Not Used Not Used Not Used Not Used Not Used
INPUTS SCI Port D0 (J1 – J31): SCI Port D1 (J1 – J29): SCI Port D2 (J1 – J27): SCI Port D3 (J1 – J25): SCI Port D4 (J1 – J23): SCI Port D5 (J1 – J21): SCI Port D6 (J1 – J19): Port D D1 (J1 – J15): Port D D2 (J1 – J13): Port D D3 (J1 – J11): Port D D4 (J1 – J9): Port D D5 (J1 – J7): Port D D6 (J1 – J5): Port D D7 (J1 – J3):
Bell In Reset Game In Test Switch Not Used Win Input Sync Start In Stop In
Not Used Not Used Not Used Not Used Not Used Not Used Not Used
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
2100 MASTER CONTROLLER BOARD PIN-OUT
43
BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
2100 UNIT CONTROLLER PIN-OUT DEFINITIONS OUTPUTS Port B D0 (J2 – J33): Fill Port B D1 (J2 – J31): Dump Port B D2 (J2 – J29): Not Used Port B D3 (J2 – J27): Not Used Port B D4 (J2 – J25): Win Light Out Port B D5 (J2 – J23): Not Used Port B D6 (J2 – J21): Not Used Port B D7 (J2 – J19): ID Light (and Clock On – trailer only) Port A D0 (J2 – J17): Win Indicator (Beacon) Port A D1 (J2 – J15): Game On (Gun Valves) Port A D2 (J2 – J13): Accounting Output Port A D3 (J2 – J11): Not Used Port A D4 (J2 – J9): Not Used Port A D5 (J2 – J7): Not Used Port A D6 (J2 – J5): Not Used Port A D7 (J2 – J3): Not Used
INPUTS SCI Port D0 (J1 – J31): Win Switch (Float) SCI Port D1 (J1 – J29): Not Used SCI Port D2 (J1 – J27): Sync Line SCI Port D3 (J1 – J25): Not Used SCI Port D4 (J1 – J23): Win Line In SCI Port D5 (J1 – J21): Not Used SCI Port D6 (J1 – J19): Footswitch Port D D1 (J1 – J15): Target Port D D2 (J1 – J13): Not Used Port D D3 (J1 – J11): Not Used Port D D4 (J1 – J9): Not Used Port D D5 (J1 – J7): Not Used Port D D6 (J1 – J5): Not Used Port D D7 (J1 – J3): Not Used
44
BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
2100 UNIT CONTROLLER PIN-OUT
45
BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
LC DISPLAY Overview The LC Display is used to set the Options for the game. To use the LC Display, first turn the game power OFF. Then, plug the LC Display Ribbon Cable into its appropriate connector on the Serial Sound Interface of Distribution Board and power the game back up. Turn the key to the “ON” position, (this key is used for safety precautions so that unauthorized personnel cannot change the Options). A Register and it’s contents will be showing on the Display. To change a Register, simply press the “MODE” button until the designated Register is reached. Depress the “UP” or “DOWN” buttons to increase or decrease the contents of that Register. Once the contents have been changed, the ‘ENTER’ button MUST be pressed in order to enter the new data into the EEPROM on the master. If “ENTER” and “MODE” are not activated, or if the switch is turned OFF, the new data will not be entered. Once the new data has been entered, turn the key to the “OFF” position and power down the game to unplug the LC Display Module from the Serial Sound Interface Board or Distribution Board. The circuitry inside the LC Display Module is a BSR Serial-to-Parallel Interface for the actual LC Display. The LC Display is and ‘intelligent’ LC Display (it has it’s own microprocessor).
/
46
BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
LC DISPLAY BOX WIRING PINOUT
47
BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
STEPPER MOTOR CONTROLLER BOARD Overview With the 2100 Series and 2300 Series Electronics, we use a Stepper Motor for our motorized games. Originally, the 2100 Series Electronics used a DC Motor. In 1991, we changed from DC Motors to Stepper Motors in order to have “computer” control over the operation of the Motor. The Stepper Motor requires a Controller Board to operate. The Original Controller Board basically operates the same as the Controller Board currently use. The Controller Board used as of 1994 is manufactured by Bob’s Space Racers®, Inc. The operation of the Board is as follows: The Input signals, step and direction, on connector J3, are opt-coupled through the Opto-coupler (PC817-4). The voltage for the motors is supplied via connector J1. That signal is a ‘chopped’ Hbridge bipolar Output. J2 is the +12VDC and +24VDC for the Control Board and Motor. As part of the operation of the Board, we use a Timer IC, SN74123N. After two seconds, if the Board doesn’t sense the step signal, it will go to reduced power mode. Bob’s Space Racers® has two versions of Stepper Motor Boards, Rev. A and Rev. C. Each board has three jumper locations. Rev. A has JP1, JP2 and JP3. Rev. C has JP2, JP3 and JP4. JP1 should be jumpered on Rev. A Boards and was eliminated on Rev. C. JP1 is to select between 1.2 Amp Output and 1.9 Amp Output. When the jumper is inserted, the Board is in 1.2 Amp Mode. DO NOT remove this jumper unless you are instructed to do so by a Bob’s Space Racers Technician. JP2 forces the Board into Full Step Mode. Usually, this jumper is removed, causing the Board to be in half Step Mode. With no Jumper present, the half/full step signal can be controlled by grounding Pin 5 on J3. JP3 will provide 12VDC to the Opto-couplers from the Board. With JP3 out, the step, direction, and half/full step signals will be required to supply +12VDC for the Opto-couplers (this option allowed the Inputs to be twisted pairs for higher signal to noise ratio, if required). Never remove or add any jumpers unless you are instructed to by a Bob’s Space Racers Technician.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
STEPPER MOTOR BOAD WIRING REV. C
USER JUMPER PROCEDURES JP 3: If the 4-pin Molex plug (J2) for power is completely populated (filled), then remove JP 3 (no jumper). Wire colors: orange, blue, red and black. If J2 has only two (2) wires connected, then a jumper must be on JP 3 to distribute power correctly through the ribbon cable. Wire colors: orange and blue. JP 2: JP 2 has a jumper on it for On Tap Games ONLY. Note: There is also a capacitor soldered to the backside of the stepper motor board for Rev. ‘C’ and Rev. ‘D’ boards.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
TROUBLESHOOTING 2100 Series Electronics PROBLEM/CAUSE
SUGGESTED FIX
PROBLEMS WITH THE GAME: Game Lock Up Stuck WIN Switch
Compare Unit Board LEDS to determine if WIN Switch is stuck. Replace that unit’s Win Switch
Unit Won’t Win Bad WIN Switch
Check Switch and replace, if necessary
One Unit Runs Without Hitting Target Switch Bad IC on 2100 Unit Board
Swap Unit Board, but leave the EEPROM with that unit. Each EEPROM is programmed for that unit. See If problem follows the Board. If so, swap 2803 ICs on Output side of Board. If no, see bad Target Switch
Shorted/Bad Target Switch
Disconnect one wire to Target Switch. Does Toy still run on its own? If not, replace Target Switch. If so, swap 2100 Unit Boards (see above)
Unit Won’t Work Except In Test Mode Bad 2100 Board
Swap 2100 Board with another Unit, but leave the EEPROM with that Unit (the EEPROM is programmed for that Unit). See if problem follows Board.
Bad IC on 2100 Unit Board
Swap 2803 ICs on Output side of Board
Blown Fuse
Check fuse with a meter: should be 2 Amp Fast Acting
Shorted/Bad Target Switch
Disconnect one wire from Target Switch and short together. Does Toy move now? YES— replace Switch. Check Switch Input LED on 2100 Board
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
2300 SERIES ELECTRONICS
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
2300 SERIES ELECTRONICS For the 1994 Model Year, we have introduced the 2300 Series of Electronics, incorporating many new features and capabilities. It is based on one main board and several peripheral circuit boards.
2300 MICROPROCESSOR BOARD Overview The basic operation of the Processor Board is as follows. The Inputs on this Board are on J9. The J9 Connector Inputs are ground-seeking. The row of pins closest to the edge of the Board is at Ground, and the row in towards the Board is the actual Input pins. To check an Input, simply ground the Inputs corresponding pins and the corresponding LED should light up, if good. These LEDs are tied to Opto-couplers which convert the 12 volt circuit to TTL for the Board. The Outputs connectors, J10 through J13, are open collector to ground. If the LED is on, the Output is working because they are tied directly to the Output pin. DO NOT ever short a front and back row pin on the Output Connector together. If the Output was good, it isn’t any more! The 4-Pin Molex Connector is the +12VDC (Pin 4) and Ground (Pins 2& 3) Power Input to the Board. The Two, 10-Pin Connectors labeled Network In and Network Out are communication ports to other boards and displays. There is a row of Serial Expansion Connectors that are used to communicate with Serial Devices, such as the Front Panel Board, Credit Display, etc. There is a total of five (5) connectors, only three (3) of these ports are being used at this point. The other two (2) ports are for future use. There is an 18-position SIP Header connector. This is an 8-bit, clocked Parallel TTL port. It is set up to be used for a Sound Board to Plug ‘piggyback’ on top of this Board.
52
BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
NETWORK OVERVIEW FOR GROUP GAMES On Group games, there is a 2300 Microprocessor Board that acts as the Master Board that controls all the units. There is also a 2300 Microprocessor Board for each individual unit. These boards are connected from one board to the next, via the network connections (Network In/Network Out). The very last unit loops back to the Master so that all the data is sent in a complete loop. When the game powers up, there is a brief delay and then the Master will try to communicate with all the units, telling them their individual unit number. This is apparent by watching the status LED on the 2300 Board. MASTER: The status LED flashes for approximately 2 seconds and then stops if the Master Board is working. At this point, the master tries to initialize ALL the Unit Boards. If they ALL acknowledge, the status LED begins flashing again. Everything is working so at that time the master clears the LCD and displays system 2300. UNITS: The status LED always flashes on the Unit Boards as long as their main parts are working. When the Master tries to communicate with the individual Boars, if the unit “hears” the Master, they turn on the LED marked win at the top of their Board. If you ever have a problem where a Master doesn’t fully initialize (the status LED flashes again), look for the last unit that has their win LED on (near the top of the Board). The last board to have the win light on is where the problem is. Either the Board with the win LED on may be bad or the one beside it with no Win Light on.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
2330 POWER UP SEQUENCE FOR PROGRAM 2330 AND LATER GROUP GAMES On power up the games have a display plugged into the serial expansion port #2 on the master board. That display will show 40 and then 41 while the master board tries to test out the fundamentals of the sync line. Each board has LED marked sync. Once that passes the game will count from 1 to how many units are in the game. When it is counting up it is taking the highest unit number and calling that #1 (that is the first unit it sees) the next highest unit is #2 and so forth, until it gets to how many units are in the game. At that point the display will show 42 and then it is actually assigning unit numbers to the individual units and you will see it count down from the highest unit number down to 1. If the game locks up on counting up, you start counting from the highest unit number 1, 2, 3, 4 to one past whatever number is in the display. The number in the display actually worked. So it would be the next unit that is defective. If it gets to 42 and starts counting down, whatever unit number is showing is the last unit number that worked and the next unit number lower in the sequence actual number would be defective. On rare occasions the last one reported working may actually not be working and be the reason it caused it to fail.
54
BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
2300 CONTROLLER BOARD MASTER WIRING PINOUT
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
2300 GRAPHIC PICTURE
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56
BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
2300 MASTER BOARD WIRING PINOUT
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
2300 CONTROLLER BOARD UNIT WIRING PINOUT
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
VERTICAL TRACK Changing Damaged or Broken Screws for Toy Holder Brackets The Vertical Track is very different from the Horizontal Track in its design; electrically, it operates the same. The Channel is made of aluminum. Observed from the font of the game, are two #5 – 40 X 2” screws with nuts which are attached to the chain inside the channel via a Vertical Toy Holder Bracket. These screws are used to hold the Toys in place. If the screws become worn, break, etc., they may need to be replaced. Replacing them is a difficult and time-consuming job, so great care should be taken to ensure that they don’t get damaged or broken. Please read all instructions and locate components before beginning this task. The chain needs to be removed from the motor (just push up on the Motor Mount Bracket and slide it off). In order to get to the Vertical to Holder Bracket to change the #5 – 40 X 2” screws, the following steps need to be done carefully. Remove the outside screw to the top microswitch and spin the microswitch out away from the channel; this will allow the Micro Activator Bracket enough room so you can change the screws.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS® WATER GAME™ GROUP The next step is to remove the ¼” X 2” bolt at the top of the track, which is held to the channel, via an acorn nut. The bolt is used to keep the Micro Activator Bracket from moving beyond the switches (and causing possible damage). Once these steps have been done, you can remove the #5 – 40 X 2” nut and washer from the #5 – 40 X 2’ screws on the face of the channel. (There is a washer on the screw inside of the channel; be careful not to lose this washer). This will allow the screws and Vertical Toy Holder Bracket in and away from the slot, so you can pull the chain up towards you and replace the #5 – 40 X 2” screws. CAUTION: Only remove one (1) screw at a time. The new screw needs to be replaced in the exact same slot in the chain where the old screw was removed from in order for the unit to remain balanced. The order of the parts is as follows: Chain/Screw/Bracket/Nut/Plastic Washer/Channel/Washer/Nut/Space/Nut/Toy Bracket/Nut
(See Drawing For Precise Placement of Parts) Once the #5 – 40 X 2” screws have been replace, you can feed the screws through the slot on the channel and slide the chain down the channel. After the screws are in place, replace the washer/nut on the outside of the channel. DO NOT TIGHTEN the nut/washer against the channel. There should be approximately a 1/8” gap when you pull on the screw. Replace the ¼” X 2” bolt, along with the acorn nut and the microswitch. Observe the chain and its position while doing these procedures, so as not to twist the chain. There are two Brackets further down on the chain, which are used to activate the Home Limit Switch and/or Win Switch, which are the Micro Activator Brackets. If the chain gets twisted in any way, these brackets will become entangled and not activate the Limit Switches. Even if it doesn’t tangle, the chain will keep coming off the Motor.
For the 1994 Model tracks, the bottom microswitch wiring has been changed to accommodate both Arcade and Park Model games. The Switch, for Park Model, was wired N/o (Normally Open) with a Purple and a Blue wire. The Switch, for an Arcade Model, was wired N/C (Normally Closed) with a Purple and a Blue wire. Currently, we use three wires: Purple, Blue, and Red, for all three positions on the Switch. If you have a Park Model game, the Switch will be wired N/O, only using the Purple and Blue wires. If you have an Arcade Model game, the Switch will be wired N/C, only using the Purple and Red wires. We have also added a green wire with a yellow stripe, on the top of each track, for a ground. This wire will ground the entire track channel. When the above steps have been completed, and the game returned to its original appearance, you can replace the Toy(s) and power up the game to ensure that everything is working properly. If you need further assistance, please call BOB’ SPACE RACERS® and ask to speak with a Technician: (386) 677-0761.
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WATER GAME™ GROUP
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HORIZONTAL TRACK Water Race games are usually Vertical Race games. However, we have made Horizontal (Derby) Water Race games for customers that prefer that style. The wiring would be the same as that for the Vertical game. The channel is made of U-shaped aluminum and the Car runs on the edges of the channel. The only adjustment on the Horizontal Track is for chain adjustment. There is a thumb screw on the Car that is used for “fine tuning” chain length. With the car at one end of the other, the chain should have less than 1/4" inch gap, between the top chain and the bottom chain at the smallest gap. There should be some gap so that if the top chain is moved side to side, it doesn’t hit the bottom chain. If adjustment is needed, slacked the two (2) jam nuts and, depending on whether the chain needs to be loosened or tightened, us one of the nuts to move the thumb screw either in or out. When chain adjustment is complete, tighten the other jam nut to prevent the thumb screw from loosening.
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CAR CHANNEL SUB-ASSEMBLY
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TOP SPIN ACTUATOR Overview
65
BOB’S SPACE RACERS® WATER GAME™ GROUP The Top Spin mechanism is a complete stand alone mechanism, mounted into the game. Bolted into the bottom of the game and has an adjustable L-bracket at the top. The mechanism is to be mounted centered under the hole in the cabinet base where the tube will raise up through. The operation of this tube is as follows: A stepping motor turns based on a signal from a control board which tells it when it is time to move and how fast. As the stepping motor turns, it lowers and raises the chain which is attached to a slide mechanism that the tube assembly is mounted on. The slide mechanism consists of ball hearings and linear slides. Where the ball bearing slides are those shafts need to be kept clean and free of debris. On the Top Spin there is a shaft that goes up through the middle of the tube area that has a spiral bend in it. That shaft rides inside a piece of Delron mounted on the bottom of the tube that raises and lowers. The Delron has a slit in it that rides on the spiral. There are limit switches to determine when the slide has reached the top of travel, and when it has reached the bottom of travel. Those need to be adjusted so that all the toys start and stop at the same position, to insure a fair race.
MAINTENANCE OF TOP SPIN VERTICAL ACTUATOR Weekly 1)
Grease the counter weight pulley ball bearings using the supplied brush and lubrication grease. While the game is running in Balley Mode use the brush to transfer a small amount of lubrication to the ball bearings at the center of the pulley.
2)
Lubricate the spiral shaft with the grease leaving a thin coat along the length of the spiral. If the shaft is extremely dirty or gummy, clean it with a suitable solvent before lubricating.
Monthly 1)
Wipe down the two guide shafts with a clean dry cloth ONLY.
2)
Next put a thin coat of Mobil Vectra #2 oil by using a clean rag that is lightly coated with the oil and wiping the shaft leaving a thin coat.
NOTE: 3 in 1 Oil may be used to clean the shaft prior to applying the oil if the shaft surface is extremely dirty or gummy.
TOP SPIN MECH. ASSEMBLY
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TPO GLO ASSEMBLY Overview
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The Top Glo mechanism is a complete stand alone mechanism, mounted int o the game. Bolted into the bottom of the game and has an adjustable L-bracket at the top. The mechanism is to be mounted centered under the hole in the cabinet base where the tube will raise up through. The operation of this tube is as follows: A stepping motor turns based on a signal from a control board which tells it when it is time to move and how fast. As the stepping motor turns, it lowers and raises the chain which is attached to a slide mechanism consists of ball bearings and linear slides. Where the ball bearing slides are those shafts need to be kept clean and free of debris. The Top Glo Mech Assembly has a circular fluorescent at the top and a 3 foot fluorescent light inside the channel, these light up when game power is on. There are 24 volts DC Regulated Power supplies which are the power for these bulbs. There is one power supply for every three units in the game. These power supplies are generally located: For a Line Up game – on the wheel well in the back of the game. For a Center Joint they’re mounted under the counter tops. The toy sits on top of the top plate.
REPLACING FLUORESCENT LIGHTS Replacing the Circular Fluorescent: 1.
Turn the power “OFF.
2.
Remove the toy/character from the top of the Mech.
3.
Under the toy assembly on top of the circular Plexi glass there are 3 Screwlox screws, remove those and lift the Plexi cover up.
4.
Unplug the white plastic power plug from the connector on the circular fluorescent. The circular fluorescent should lift straight up and out of assembly. Repeat the above procedure in reverse to re-assemble the top toy plate.
Replacing the 36” Fluorescent: 1.
Turn the power “OFF”.
2.
Disconnect the 9 pin Molex plugs from the tube assembly (bottom side). Remove the 2 mounting screws which hold the pin Molex plug onto the underside of the slide housing.
3.
Remove the 4 button head Allen screws holding the tube to the slide housing.
4.
Remove one of the three nylon guides at the top holding the tube in place.
5.
Carefully lift the tube assembly up out the top of the aluminum top plate. The 9 pin Molex plug attached should be gently pulled through the small hole on the bottom slide housing.
6.
Remove the screw, washer and clamp holding the wires to the 9 pin Molex plug on the bottom of the tube assembly.
7.
Remove the 3 black screws from the Plexi tube at the bottom outside edge.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS® WATER GAME™ GROUP 8. The bottom nylon plug with the electrical socket can then be pulled off. Remove the fluorescent bulb with the red sleeve and black end caps that are on top and bottom. 9.
Remove the black end caps and replace them onto the new fluorescent tube.
10.
Slide the new fluorescent bulb into the tube and properly seat the top plug into the top socket on the Mech Assembly.
11.
Insert the bottom nylon plug onto the bottom of the tube assembly – securing the bulb into its socket.
12.
You may want to connect the 9 pin Molex plug, power up the game and test to verify the bulb is secure in place and works okay before re-attaching the assembly.
13.
If all works, repeat steps 1-8 in reverse to re-assemble the Top Glo Mech.
TOP GLO MECH. ASSEMBLY
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2300 RELAY BOARD Overview
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS® WATER GAME™ GROUP There are three (3) styles of Relay Boards used with the 2300 series of Electronics. The style of Relay Board used depends on the application. The coil voltage comes in on a 10- Pin Ribbon Cable connection to turn the Relay (s) ON of OFF. The LEDS on the Board signal when a Relay is ON or OFF. The different styles of Relay Boards are as follows. Style 1 – BSR1110 On this Relay board there are two 12 - Pin Molex Plugs and one 3-Pin Molex Plug. The Molex Plugs bring out the contacts of the Relay (s), (Common, N/O & N/C). These are used for any voltage level or general application.
EX033435
Style 2 – BSR1120
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS® WATER GAME™ GROUP This style of Relay Board is used mainly to power 12VDC valves. There is a 4-Pin Molex Plug on this board, which is the +12VDC power and ground to the loads from the Board. There is also a 10-position terminal block, 2 positions for each Relay. One side of the 3 Terminal Block is ground and the other side is the N/O contact to the +12VDC power. There is a dampening diode on each Output so it can only be used with DC voltages and Loads.
Style 3 – BSR1130
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS® WATER GAME™ GROUP This style of Relay Board is currently not used. There is a 20 – position Terminal Block (to replace the style with the Molex Plugs). By using the Terminal Block, it brings out the form C Switch contacts for each Relay. There are four (4) Terminal Block positions for each Relay. Two (2) are common, one (1) is N/O and the other is N/C. There are two (23) common positions for each Relay so that we can daisy-chain the power to all the commons, if necessary.
RELAY BOARD
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS® WATER GAME™ GROUP On the board, there are two 12-pin molex plugs that are output connections for contacts on the relays, and a 5-pin molex that is used to power the four relays (to turn the relays on or off). The LEDs on the board signal when a relay is on. The coil voltage of the relay is +12VDC.
BSR9010 INPUT/OUTPUT RELAY BOARD Overview
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The BSR9010 board is made to support all the inputs and outputs necessary for four units. The four units are hooked in via ribbon cables to the BSR9010 board. The ribbon cable ports are marked A, B, C and D respectively. The way the game is wired typically port A is used for the lowest unit number. Port B is the second lowest unit number. Port C is the third lowest unit number and port D is the highest unit number of the four. NOTE: On all Vertical Games with aluminum tracks including Speed Shifter port C is the lowest. Port D is the second lowest. Port A is the third lowest and port B I the highest. The reason they are not numbered is because they don’t correspond with the individual unit number. Along with the connectors labeled for the ribbon cables, all the relays and all the LEDs are labeled with their function and their specific port A, B, C, D. One of the advantages of this board over previous designs is, there are no other relay boards or other circuit boards required to make an individual unit work – other than the stepping motor board, which would be near the track. This makes it easier to trouble shoot because all to the components are in a local area. This provides for cleaner wiring solutions and less complicated electronics to follow. For each output there is a fuse for each unit which also has an indicator light next to it. The light indicates whether or not you are receiving an output as necessary. I.E., beacon A is supposed to be on and there is no light at the relay board, then the first thing to check would be the fuse. If there is a light for A and the beacon is not spinning, then you know the power is not making it from the relay board. It is either a bad beacon or a wire connection. These relay boards may be interchanged with another of the same type of relay board. I.E., if you have a problem with units one, two, three or four and you believe it’s related to the relay board you can swap the BSR9010 for those units with the BSR9010 for five, six, seven, eight. There are two types of power that go to this board for the outputs. There is regulated power which is in a white four pin Molex plug and a terminal block style plug that has unregulated power, which is used for most of your outputs, i.e., beacons, valves, etc. There is an indicator to tell you whether you have any regulated 12 volts coming in, but there is no indicator to tell you whether you have unregulated 12 volts. This would be determined by, whether or not you high current outputs, i.e., where the fuses are lit when it’s time for them to turn on then your probably missing your unregulated power. It is not fused up to the board other than at the main supply transformer which would mean that most likely all of the units would be down if it blew a fuse at the supply transformer. The BSR9010 series of electronics is part of a strategy to localize all power supplies and all boards which will aid the customer in trouble shooting. Note: On Games that have a Win Globe instead of a Win Beacon the win beacon outputs run up to where the win globes are located. Instead of turning on a beacon they are turning on another relay on a four relay, relay board that turns on the light. Although most of the electrical would be centralized the win lights on a game that has win globes at the top would be on the back side of the win globes.
BSR9010 INPUT/OUTPUT BOARD
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WIN LIGHT RELAY BOARD WIRING Prior to June 1998
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WATER GAME™ GROUP
TROUBLESHOOTING 2300 Series Electronics
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PROBLEM/CAUSE
SUGGESTED FIX
PROBLEMS WITH THE GAME Game Will Not Turn On Bad Footswitch
Check continuity on foot. If bad, replace
Network not Working properly
Check LED’s on ALL Boards for proper Networking. See Network Overview section of Manual
PROBLEMS WITH THE BEACON Beacon Light Works But the Disk Doesn’t Revolve Reflector is slipping
Check the Motor to see if it is slipping. There is an O-ring around the disk; also, there is a tension wheel that pushes the O-ring tight to the Motor shaft. It probably isn’t pushing down hard enough on the O-ring – adjust if necessary
Beacon Light Does Not Work, But the Disk Is Revolving Bad Bulb
Check the bulb and/or replace it with a #1195 bulb
Beacon Does Not Work At All No Power
The Bell probably isn’t working either, which means it is a Board problem. Check voltage to Relay board; should be 12VDC
Bad Wire Connection (s)
If the bell is working check all wiring to and from the Beacon
Bad Relay
Check Relay on Relay Board for proper operation
Bell Does Not Work At All No Power
Check for 12VDC Input Voltage at the Relay Board. Check wiring.
Bad Relay
Swap Relay with another one, replace, if necessary
Bad Bell
Check Bell by plugging into the end of an extension cord. (The Bell has a standard wall plug jack on it).
FOOT SWITCH WIRING
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FRONT COUNTER I.D. LIGHT & VALVE WIRING Prior to June 1998
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*NOTE: The Diode used for the valve needs to be at least 3-4 Amp when replacing. Note the stripe on one end of the diode, this goes to the positive wire.
FRONT COUNTER I.D. LIGHT & VALVE WIRING
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
As of June 1998
*NOTE: The diode used for the valve needs to be at least 3-4 Amp when replacing. Note the stripe on one end of the diode, this goes to the positive wire.
VERTICAL WATER 81
BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
FRONT COUNTER COMPONENT LAYOUT Prior to June 1998
NOTE: The number of Relay Boards, Power Supplies and Fuse Blocks used, will depend on the number of units in your game. Their positioning may vary also, depending on the year of you game. *NOTE: See BSR9010 Input/Output Board as of June 1998.
FRONT COUNTER WIRING Prior to June 1998 82
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*NOTE: See BSR9-010 Input/Output Board as of June 1998
FRONT COUNTER RELAY BOARD WIRING Prior to June 1998
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*NOTE: See BSR9010 Input/Out Board as of June 1998
BINKS GUN & PARTS
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WATER GAME™ GROUP
WATER GUN MACHINE GUN HANDLE 85
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ASSEMBLY
GUN MOUNTING – OLD STYLE
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WATER GAME™ GROUP
NOTE: Lubriplate grease is used to lubricate various areas- see drawing above.
GUN MOUNTING – NEW STYLE
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WATER GAME™ GROUP
NOTE: Lubriplate grease is used to lubricate various areas – see drawing above.
GUN ASSEMBLY
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DYNAROD
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Starting in 1997 after careful evaluation, Bob’s Space Racer’s® is including Dynarod Water Treatment System in all of our Group and Trailer Water Games. The benefits of Dynarod are: Controls scaling and corrosion Softens existing scale Extends life of the equipment Reduces maintenance time Reduces equipment down time Environmentally safe Eliminates the use of chemicals Dynarods are placed in the water tanks and left in 24 hours a day. The only maintenance required is to clean the Dynarods every 30 days or so with a green 3M type pad, wipe dry and resubmerse in the tank. Be sure to re-install the rubber end caps if removed. The cells should not touch the metal tank! If they do, it will short out the process.
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COMPONENT LAYOUT
COMPONENT LAYOUT
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VERTICAL WATER TANK BACK Prior to June 1998
NOTE: 1. Main Board mounts on side of trough near unit #1 2. This layout is for 2100/2300 Series Electronics – locations may vary, depending on the year of your game
COMPONENT LAYOUT
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VERTICAL WATER TANK BACK As of June 1998
NOTES: 1. Depending on how many units are in your game will depend on how many circuit boards in the game. This configuration is for 2300 boards using the new BSR9010 Input/Output Relay Board 2. All of the Power Supplies (Regulated/Unregulated) are mounted on the Wheel Well. 3. This configuration is for all Line Up and Center Joints using channels.
COMPONENT LAYOUT
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WATER STOCK CHUTE Prior to June 1998
NOTE: This Component Layout is as generic layout – if you have any questions call Bob’s Space Racers® and ask to speak to a Technician.
COMPONENT LAYOUT 94
BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
CENTER WATER STOCK CHUTE As of June 1998
NOTE: Depending on how many units are in your game will depend on how many circuit boards in the game. This configuration is for 2300 boards using the new BSR9010 Input/Output Relay Board.
COMPONENT LAYOUT
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TOP GLO TANK BACK Post June 1998
COMPONENT LAYOUT
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WATER GAME™ GROUP
PARK MODEL VERTICAL WATER POWER SUPPLY LAYOUT Prior to June 1998
NOTE: The number of power supplies being used will depend on the number of units in your game.
COMPONENT LAYOUT 97
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CENTER WATER POWER SUPPLY LAYOUT Prior to June 1998
*NOTE: The above Power Supplies are at the hitch end under the front counters.
COMPONENT LAYOUT
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
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CENTER STOCK CHUTE POWER SUPPLY LAYOUT As of June 1998
*NOTE: The Power Supply Layout above is located inside left end of Stock Chute.
PARTS LIST 99
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ACCOUNTING SYSTEM
2100 ACCOUNTING SYSTEM 101
BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
Overview The Accounting System consists of a Microprocessor Board, a Distribution Board, two mechanical meters (non-resetable), an LC Module, an Input Board and Reed Relay Boards (depending on how many units thee are and the type of control electronics in your game). To determine whether or not you have Reed Relay Boards, identify what controls each unit of your game. If it is a Relay Bracket with four Relays on it, then you will have Reed Relay Boards. If you have a Circuit Board for each unit, the Reed Relay boards will NOT be used. The Accounting Outputs from a Circuit Board go directly into the Input Board. The Input Board supports up to three Relay Boards for a total of up to 24 Inputs. The Input Board is connected to the Serial Distribution Board via a 10-pin Ribbon Cable Connector. The Serial Distribution Board connects to the Microprocessor Board via a 20-pin Ribbon Cable Connector. Also, on the Distribution Board is where the LC Display (Liquid Crystal Display) plugs in (so that the operator can view how many games were run and how many players there have been) and the E² Option (if applicable). The E² is a Board which is inside some LC Displays and can be utilized via the 9-pin Connector on the face of the Display. This Option will allow the Accountant/Owner to determine the Unit Number (Trailer Number), the number of games for each unit that was played, Operator time (in minutes) for up to 2 Operators, and also the total time the game was on for that day (in minutes). The Owner will need an E² Module to read this data and a printer (set to specific parameters to accommodate E²). These Options may be purchased from BOB’S SPACE RACERS® for your Park Model or Trailer Game. The heart of the system is the 2100 Microprocessor Board. Connected to it are the Distribution Board, Accounting Meters, Win Line, a Low Game/High Game ($1.00/$2.00), and Game Identification Number. The Accounting Meters are connected to the Output which is a 34 – pin Connector. The Win Line, Low Game/High Game, and Game Identification information, are hooked into the other 34 pin connector, which is the input connector of the 2100 Microprocessor Board.
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2100 ACCOUNTING BOARD PINOUT
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DISTRIBUTION BOARD The Distribution Board is used to distribute serial information from the Main Processor Board to various peripheral items including the Sound Board, LC Display, etc.
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DISTRIBUTION BOARD PINOUT With Marked Wire Locations
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REED RELAY BOARD The Reed Relay Board is used in conjunction with a Relay Bracket for each unit. This Board consists of two 20 – pin connectors, one (J1) is the Input from the Units, and the other 20- pin connector (J3) is the Output from the Relay Board to the Input board. The Relays are basically a switch opening and/or closing for each Unit. J2 is not used and is never installed. D1 through D8 are never used or installed.
EX033626
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INPUT BOARD The Input Board is exactly what the name implies, an Input from each Unit. The information is parallel loaded in through opto-couplers (4N26 ICs) and serially shifted out through the 74LS165 ICs to the Distribution board via a 10 – pin Ribbon Cable Connector. The Distribution Board is connected via 20 – pin connector to the 2100 Accounting Board. That’s the path from the 2100 board to the Distribution Board. There is an LED corresponding to each Input. Short the front and back pin together to check Input. Units connected to this are in no specific order. We are not concerned with which units are sending inputs, just how many are on.
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E² ACCOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS Place the E² |Module (A small black box with a 9 Pin D Plug on one end) into the port labeled E² Rom on the face of the LC Display Box. There is only one way it will plug in. Turn the key to the “ON” position. The Display will read “BSR Accounting System #”. Sequence through using the “MODE” pushbutton until you reach the readout which displays “WRITE EEROM”, then hit the “ENTER” pushbutton. If the module accepted the Data the display will read out “COMPLETE”. If there are any connections make improperly or you don’t have the E² Module in place when you do this, the display will read “BAD EEROM”. If this happens, try a different E² Module, if it still doesn’t work, check all your connections and that the E² Module is securely seated into the play and try it again. If you need further assistance call Bob’s Space Racer’s® and ask to speak to a technician. Once you have verified the EEROM read “COMPLETE”, you can turn on the LC Display, “MODE” through the data until you reach “ERASE DATA” press “ENTER”. The readout will display “COMPLETE”. This you have completed the “WRITE EEROM” process correctly. Once the data has been erased, it’s gone forever. This information the E² Module holds is simply written over every time you download the new data. If you have the EEROM (E²) Printer you may now set it up to printout the days data. The first time you will need to insert the ribbon (see printer manual). Power up the unit, insert the paper (not tractor feed), it will auto load. Press the “on line” pad on the face of the printer, the green led will light up, telling you the unit is “on line”, ready to print. Place the E² module onto the connector on the face of the printer and press the momentary pushbutton, the data will begin to printout. Once the information has started printing, you can now remove the E² module (if applicable). If you need further assistance, call Bob’s Space Racer’s® and ask to speak to a technician.
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SAMPLE E² PRINTOUT GROUP GAME TOTALIZER REPORT NUMBER OF PLAYERS NUMBER OF GAMES NUMBER OF PLAYERS NUMBER OF GAMES
UNIT # ??
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
00000
00000
00000
00000
00000
00000
00000
00000
00000
00000
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
12
00000
00000
00000
00000
00000
00000
00000
00000
00000
00000
TOTAL NUMBE OF LOW GAMES
00000
TOTAL NUMBER OF LOW PLAYERS
00000
TOTAL NUMBER OF HGH GAMES
00000
TOTAL NUMBER OF HIGH PLAYERS
00000
OPERATOR #1 TIME (min)
00000
OPERATOR #2 TIME (min)
00000
TOTAL TIME TODAY (min)
00000
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LIGHTING
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
LIGHTING OVERVIEW Flashers and Bally Lights MECHANICAL FLASHERS: An Option on many BSR games and standard on trailers is Overhead Lights. Each game will have a Flasher Unit, multiple Light Tracks and Overhead Mounting Braces. Currently, we use a Four Pole Flasher Unit, 33-C4, (or a 66C4 for high amperage use), but in the past we have used a Three Pole Unit, 33-C3 and a 66-C3. Trailer Model Games require three (3) Flasher Units. One for the Marquee, two (2) for the Awnings. The Awnings are separated into one (1) long and (1) short for each of the Flasher Units. (See LIGHTING SECTION Figures #1 & #2). Each of the poles attach to a certain amount of sockets on the Light Bars. As the Motor turns, the Cam that is attached to the Motor Shaft will open and close the contacts, turning the lights ON and OFF. *CAUTION: Turn OFF ALL Lighting Power When Troubleshooting, either type of Flasher Box – 120VAC - 220VAC! After years of use you may experience a problem where only a couple sets of lights are working. Usually a good cleaning of the contacts cures this problem. Use only contact cleaner: NO Brush, NO Filing, NO Abrasion! If cleaning is not successful, replace the contact posts. The model number of the Flasher is on a decal on the Flasher. When ordering parts, we swill need this number to determine what number, count how many contacts the Flasher has (3 or 4) and whether the contacts are in a row (like fingers on a hand) or a circular pattern (See LIGHTING SECTION Figures #1 & #2. After awhile, the contact posts may need to be adjusted. To do this, simply turn the Cam so as the Middle of the gear is under the contact wheel. The teeth of the gear should be on either side of the contact wheel. Loosen the nut on the contactor post. Using a screwdriver, lower the contactor by tightening the screw adjustment, the contact pads should be approximately 1/16” to 3/16” max. gap apart. If the touch, the light will be on all the time. After the contactor arm has been adjusted to the proper position, replace the nut and tighten. NOTE: Flashers should only be mounted on 3 corners (not 4) so as to prevent binding. ELECTRONIC FLASHERS: Beginning in 1996 some games contain a 2300 Microprocessor based Electronic Solid State Flasher Unit (s). These Flasher Units consist of a 2300 Series Microcontroller driving either four (4) or eight (8), 25 Amp Solid State Relays, depending on the lighting application. Each unit also contains its own self contained 12 VDC Power Supply. (See LIGHTING SCRTION Figure #3).
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
Fluorescent Lighting On all Trailers, and some Park Models, we use fluorescent lights to light parts of the game. The fixtures are standard lighting fixtures that can be sourced from a lock hardware store or building supply. Most of the fixtures use replaceable ballasts that can also be obtained from local store or sourced from Bob’s Space Racers®. Miscellaneous Fixtures A 25 Watt Rough Service bulb is used behind the Target Pans in Water Games to illuminate the target area. A rough service bulb is used due to the adverse location of the bulb. On games with Win Globes, a standard 40 Watt bulb is used for the Win and Running Lights.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
66C4 FLASHER
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
TROUBLESHOOTNG PROBLEM/CAUSE
SUGGESTED FIX
Overhead Lights Don’t Work at All No Connection
Check Amp connector and all Molex Plugs for each track of lights for a secure fit.
No 110VAC Supply
Check voltage at the Motor. If no voltage, follow wiring back to 4x4 Box and check the fuse and/or wiring inside. If you have 110VAC at the Motor and it still doesn’t work, its probably a bad Motor.
Bad Motor
Replace Flasher Unit, if necessary
Some Lights Don’t Work Bad Connection
Check bulbs to make certain there is a secure fit into socket
Contacts Misaligned or Dirty
Check Flasher contacts inside the Flasher Unit. CAUTION: !!0VAC – unplug the game power. Carefully clean each contact with contact cleaners and realign contact posts, if necessary, to its mating contact. **DO NOT sand contacts! Check Max gap between contacts 1/16 – 3/16 inches
Bad Bulb
Swap bulb with a known good one and replace, if necessary.
Some Lights Do Not Work Bad Socket
Retwist light socket connection and replace socket, if necessary.
Fluorescent Lights Will Not Light Bad Light
Change light
Bad Ground
Make sure fixture has an earth ground properly connected (very important!)
Bad Ballast
Replace ballast
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
TROUBLESHOOTNG PROBLEM/CAUSE
SUGGESTED FIX
Fluorescent Lights Will Not Light Until Someone is Standing Next to Them Bad Ground
Make sure fixture is properly grounded and check their Ground on the game.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
SOUND SYSTEM OVERVIEW Over the years, Bob’s Space Racers® has updated the sound systems to accommodate the needs of our customers. The original sound system was a MacKenzie Cartridge, which was a small silver tape cartridge. Next was a Leer Cartridge, which was an 8-track tape. Then a DMR MacKenzie Sound, which was in a gold case with a slide-in cartridge. Presently we use one of two sound systems, either the DMR-PX Mackenzie Player or the Clever Device Sound Sequencer. The DMR-PX Mackenzie Player can play only a single sound. The Clever Device Sound Sequencer has the capacity to play from two to eight (2-8) sounds.
AMPLIFIERS The amplifiers we have used over the years have, also, changed. Originally we used a Bogen Amplifier which had a 70V speaker system. The Yorkville Sound 4200 and KMD 4200 Amplifiers were the next ones used beginning in the early 1980’s. They are similar in operations with only a cosmetic difference on their face units. The Yorkville Sound 6400 Amplifier was used after that. This was used in some Whac-A-Mole® trailers because they have more speakers than other games. Presently we use a Yorkville Sound MM4, or MP4, Amplifier System. This unit has more power and is more user-friendly. The hook-up of all of the above amplifiers is pretty much the same: power, speaker, et cetera. The current sound system comes equipped with overhead microphone cables and includes a hand-held microphone and wireless microphone system. These kits are designed to operate at different frequencies for the various games Bob’s Space Racers® manufactures. The transmitter and receiver are set for the same frequency of operation. We have selected different channels for each of the games to minimize interference of signals from other sound systems. We also have CD Players available. We originally used a Pioneer 6-disk player, but have switched to a Sony single-disk player. This switch was done to reduce the maintenance and to simplify the operation. If you are interested in updating your sound system to one of the newer systems available, please call us at 386-677-0761 and ask to speak with a technician. The technician will help you determine exactly what is needed for your system to be updated.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
STD DMR CONNECTION
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
SOUND SEQUENCER
NOTE #1: Test With Lead Disconnected. If No Buss In the Amplifier, then Cut Lead Off. The current version of sound sequencer the speaker (+) and (-) are NO LONGER USED. They are labeled N/C. If that is how your sequencer is labeled, then the Yellow/Green Lead will connect to the Trans (-) or Chassis Ground.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
DMR-PX
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
TROUBLESHOOTING PROBLEMS/CAUSE
SUGGESTED FIX
No Sound From Mini-Mac Bad Power Amplifier
Check amplifier by talking into microphone (if microphone doesn’t work, check amplifier).
Tape In Player
Check tape in player and check to make sure the tape isn’t broken; make sure there is a tape in the player (replace tape as needed).
Sound from Mini-Mac Skips or Drags Dirty Tape
Call Bob’s Space Racers® for instructions on cleaning tape
Bad Push Button
Check and make sure the power switch is ON, then press the small ‘Start’ button next to the ON button on the unit. If the tape plays at the time, replace push button at push button station.
No Sound From Amplifier Switch
Make sure amplifier is turned on and RED indicator lamp is lit.
Settings
Check Volume Setting and Master Volume setting.
Bad Amplifier
Call Bob’s Space Racers® to arrange for a replacement amplifier to be sent to you while yours is being repaired.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
WATER PUMP SYSTEM
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
WATER PUMP SYSTEM The main holding tank contains the main supply of water. Water is filled to 1 inch below the top of the plug. The water is fed, via gravity, down to the intake of the Water Pump. The Water Pump then sends the water to the Water Filter where it passes through a Water Filter Cartridge that removes the sediment from the water. The filter is used specifically to keep large mineral deposits, etc., from making it out to the tips of the Water Guns where there is a very small hole. A mineral deposit could greatly restrict the amount of water passing through the guns. This is a sediment filter; we are only trying to get out the large particles, not filter it for drinking water use, etc. If a higher quality filter is used, for example, a .02 Micron Filter, or any filter that will remove 99.9% of contaminants, they will take away from the water pressure needed to push the water through the guns, regardless as to where the Pressure Regulator is set up. From the Water Filter Cartridge the water passes through to the Watts Valve. Generically, it’s called a Pressure Regulator, but will be referred to here as a Watts Valve. This allows you to regulate what the water pressure to the front counter will be. On top of the Watts Valve there are two large bolt-looking caps. These are hollow bolts. The one closest to the Water Filter is the smallest. Under the cap is a cylindrical tube made out of a screen. This is a pre-filter to keep any large particles from going through the Pressure Regulator because they would damage the diaphragm (a rubber disk that causes the Pressure Regulator to operate). Do NOT remove the lager cap directly above the adjustment screw. The reason not to remove that cap is because it holds the spring that operates the diaphragm. If the cap becomes loose, there is a chance the diaphragm could be damaged. Below that cap is, as said, the Pressure Adjustment Screw. That is how the pressure would be adjusted f the Watts Valve was not putting out enough pressure. These are two jam nuts up near the casing of the Pressure Regulator. After those two nuts are loosened (the bottom one and the one closest to the body) adjust for the pressure desired and tighten up the nut closes to the body tight against the body and jam the other nut up against it so that the Adjustment Screw cannot vibrate loose. One important thing to note about the screen on the Watts Valve (the Post-Filter Screen): Often, when there is not enough water pressure, the reason is that the Post Filter Screen has a build up of algae o other debris on it and the Post Filter Screen needs to be removed and cleaned. The water passes from the Watts Valve into a red Rubber hose out to the front counter. The hose is then attached to a check valve that allows water to go out to the front counter, but will not allow water to drain from the front counter back to the Water pump when the water pump is not operating. From the Check Valve the water goes up into a manifold where all the valves are mounted for each of the individual unit stations. These valves, when operated, allow water to pass from the manifold into the Water Gun where water is shot out the brass tips towards the target. Any water from the manifold that is not used passes through the manifold into a reducer coupling and comes back to the holding tank via a ½” return line which is a piece of ½” copper tubing. There is a brass screen in the holding tank (in the bottom of the pan near the middle). The screen is made out of brass, not fiberglass or aluminum, because it would get sucked down the intake and into the Water Pump. Unlike fiberglass or aluminum, the brass is a rigid enough material where it cannot be compressed down into the water intake line. The reason for the screen is to prevent foreign objects thrown into the Water Tank from getting sucked up into the Water Pump where it could damage the impeller or any of the seals. The Water Pump has an intake which is the larger size fitting on the pump. The smaller fitting is the output of the Water Pump. The Water Pump operates off of 220 volts through a contactor that is turned on when the game goes into RACE MODE. The output of the Water Pump goes up into Water Filter Canister. On top of the Water Filter there is a Red Button that is used to allow air to bleed out of the Water Pump System whenever the pump is trying to ‘prime’. Many times
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS® WATER GAME™ GROUP this is not needed because gravity is feeding the Water pump, but if difficulties should occur in getting the pump to prime, just press the Red Button and it will allow air to escape out of the lines, reducing the pressure the pump is fighting against to put water through. This action will bleed off any air pockets in the system between the pump and the fill side. The Water Valve for each Player position is only turned on when that unit has been activated. This allows the Gun to shoot when the race starts. By pressing the Forward button to start the game, the Water Pump Contactor will energize and start the Pump. The Player will have to squeeze the trigger to shoot the water at the Target.
WATER SYSTEM MAINTENANCE The game needs to have all its holding tank water drained and the filter cartridge replaced weekly. Any time the water system is drained and new water put in, the water filter needs to be replace. Any sediment, or anything in the filter at the time the water is changed, would be recirculated into the new water if the filter is not changed. The filter you need to use is called Sediment filter; the purpose is not t make pure drinking water, but for keeping large mineral deposits from forming –inside the tips of the water guns. The opening of the hole is very small and if mineral deposits were to build up inside them it would cause the water gun to either not spray a steady stream or to have the stream wander as it sprays. After the water pump has been drained, the water filter cartridge can be replaced. This is done by obtaining access through the back of the game. Go in to the Water Pump System. There is a water filter cartridge inside a water filter canister. The water filter canister is a beige canister screwed onto the filter top which is dark brown. By unscrewing the canister, this provides access to the water filter cartridge. This will be full of water, so be careful. It is recommended that a 5-gallon bucket be set around the water filter canister’ unscrew the canister and lower it down into the 5-gallon bucket so that all the water is captured. Then, pump the old filter cartridge and the bad water into the bucket, put a new filter cartridge into the canister, and tighten it back up. Make sure that the filter is aligned properly with the cap of the filter assembly so that the filter does not get crushed or is rendered inoperative by improper installation when replaced. Fill the water up to one inch (1”) from the top of the drain plug (or to the screws at the top of the tank in a sit-down game. Once the water has reached the fill position, start the game up like you are going to run a race. THE water Pump will begin to operate. The water is gravity fed from the tank into the pump. The filter system comes out of the pump. There is a red button on top of the filter. This button can be depressed to allow air to exit from the filter assembly long enough for the pump to prime. When all the air has been expelled from the Filter System, it will begin to bleed water through the Push Button being pressed down; at that point, let off the button.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
DUAL WATER SYSTEM Pressure Relief Pump Output
Pump Output
(Red Button)
Water Filter Canister
WATTS Valve
Jam Nut
Screen
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Pump Intake
BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
TROUBLESHOOTING PROBLEMS/CAUSE SUGGESTED FIX Low pressure/No Pressure Lost Prime
Run Pump, Press Red Button on top of water filter to relieve trapped air
Clogged filter, clogged watts valve screen
Clean Watts filter, replace paper filter
Broken Impeller
Replace Impeller
Trash in Pump
Open Pump and clean inside
Motor Does Not Run No Power
Check circuit breaker
Thermal Circuit Breaker
If Motor is hot, allow to cool
Bad Pressure Switch on Pump
Check contacts for free movement (do this with Pump unplugged from Power).
No Water Shooting Out of Guns Check all of the PROBLEMS listed above Solenoid Valve not operating
Check relay board. Is relay operating? Is LED on board operating when you shoot the gun? If LED comes on, probably a bad relay
Gun Tip Clogged
Clean Gun Tip with #57 Drill bit by hand. DO NOT USE DRILL – USING THE DRILL BIT IN A DRILL WILL DAMAGE TIPS! Shoot gun with Brass Tip removed.
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BOB’S SPACE RACERS®
WATER GAME™ GROUP
TOUBLESHOOTING PROBLEM/CAUSE
SUGGESTED FIX
No Pressure on one unit Clogged Tip
Remove Tip and see if Gun Operates
Bad Relay or Solenoid
Measure voltage at the solenoid when the Unit I.D. Light is on and the game is in play. If proper voltage is present, the valve is bad. If no voltage, Relay is bad.
Guns Shoot over or Around The Counter (Sit – Down Models) Gun Not at Correct Height
Loosen Set Screws and adjust to correct height (when gun tips back, the lower part of Gun Handle should be one ()1) inch above the Counter top).
Y Yoke Loose
Loosen Set Screw or bolts. Position on Gun aimed at center of Target. Tighten Set Screws (Bolts).
Pump Runs Continuously Bad Contactors
Check Contactors to see if they have welded shut or just stuck. If they are welded shut, they should be replaced.
Bad Sold State Relay
Check Input and Output voltages. May need replacing. If you have Input voltage and no Output voltage, it is bad. If there is Output voltage, but no Input voltage, the Output is shorted and needs to be replaced.
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