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Hidden/invisible Fencing Troubleshooting Guide (fm)

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Hidden/Invisible Fencing Troubleshooting Guide (FM) 1 Index Troubleshooting Common Problems..……………………………………………. 3 The Receiver Collar and Collar Fit…………………………………………… Testing the Receiver is Functioning…………………………………………. Testing the transmitter in Functioning……………………………………….. Short Loop Test………………………………………………………………… 3 4 7 9 Further Problems……………………………………………………………………… 10 Keeping Your System Running…………………………………………………….. 11 Useful Links………………………………………………………………….…………. 12 2 Troubleshooting Common Problems In the unlikely event that your invisible fencing system stops working please follow the troubleshooting procedures set out below. If these do not solve your problem, please call your supplier or Commons Sense Fencing for further advice. The receiver collar and collar fit If a particular animal or animals appear not to be responding to the IF system you need to remove them from the rest of the herd so that you can test the collars and receivers. With the animal secured, visually inspect the collar fit. If the collar is not tight enough the contact pads will not be in touch with the animal’s skin and therefore they will not feel any stimulation; rendering the system useless. To check the collar fit, firstly encourage your animal to keep its head up so its neck is completely stretched. Place your fingers between the collar and the animal’s neck you should be able to get the flat of your hand between them and still have good pressure on your fingers. Any excess space or if the collar moves easily, the collar is too loose and needs tightening. This would be an opportune moment to remove the collar completely and inspect the rubber contact strips, screws and washers are intact. Check the rubber contact strips for tears around the washers. If the rubber is no longer making contact with the washers, you will need to replace the collar. If any screws or washers are missing, you will need to replace them. If the collar fit and condition are OK, move on to testing the receiver unit. 3 Testing the Receiver is functioning Fig.1 Ensure you have your multi-tool (star shaped object) and your collar to hand, to enable you to do all the tests necessary. To ensure the receiver unit is drawing power from the battery, you must release the battery cap, remove the battery and then reinstall the battery and cap. The status LED should flash red and green. This indicates that the receiver has started normally. Once started, the status LED will continue to flash green every 40 seconds to indicate normal operation. If the status LED does not come on, check that the battery has been installed correctly with the positive (+) end of the battery inserted first. If there is still no status LED, try once again using a battery that is known to work. If the receiver still shows no status LED please call the supplier for more advice. Next, to check the receiver is set to the correct training level, you need to locate the test point on the receiver. On the R9 there will be 2 raised lines on the right hand side of the unit (as shown in Fig.1). Using the multi-tool, place the magnet end (silver tip) to the test point on the receiver unit and you should hear a number of beeps. This indicates the level the collar is set to (1 beep=level 1; 2 beeps=level 2; etc.). 4 The receiver unit should be set to level 5. If the long beep is heard, this indicates that the collar is set to “beep only” (normally set for use as a fence tester). To change the training level on the collar hold the magnet in place, and the collar will run through all the levels. Once 5 beeps are heard, remove the magnet (multi-tool) from the test point. If the collar is beeping through the levels, the next test is to ensure the electrical stimulation is working. Take the receiver and the multi-tool to the transmitter box. Locate the multi-tool over the contact posts of the receiver (screw heads), as shown in Fig.2. There are 2 indentations in the tester with a silver wire running through them. These wires must be in contact with the screw heads. Fig.2 With the multi-tool and receiver touching, hold them up to the transmitter panel (Fig.3). If the collar is working correctly you should hear the audible warning (beeping) from the receiver, and the test light on the multi-tool should also flash amber, indicating the stimulation is working correctly. Fig.3 5 If the receiver does not beep or the test light on the multi-tool doesn’t activate, try again with a receiver that is known to work. If that receiver operates correctly, the fault lies with the receiver and you should seek advice from your supplier or Commons Sense Fencing. If the second receiver does not operate, there could be a fault within the transmitter. Note: a conventional electric fence tester can also be used to check the stimulation is working correctly. Connect the probe of the electric fence tester to one of the screw heads or against one of the rubber contact strips instead of using the multi -tool and follow the instructions as above. If the receiver is working correctly the fence tester will activate although the reading (if a digital voltage display) will not be accurate. 6 Testing the Transmitter is functioning Fig.4 Firstly check the red Power LED and green Range LED’s are both on. If the red LED isn’t on, ensure the system is either connected to an AC power supply and the socket is working, or a DC (battery) power supply and the battery is charged. Also make sure the transmitter Power On/Off is switched to the On position. Note: the red LED will not illuminate if the transmitter is working from the battery back-up supply, so remove the PowerPak if it is connected. If the above checks have been made and the red LED still does not illuminate, you will need to take advice from the supplier. If the red LED is on but the green LED is not on, the transmitter should be sounding an alarm indicating a break in the boundary cable. Remove the loop plug to confirm this. If the alarm does not sound, you will need to take advice from the supplier. 7 If the red LED is illuminated and not all of the green LED’s are illuminated, there may be a problem with the boundary cable but not necessarily a break. Adjust the Range Control, located on the right hand side of the panel, fully clockwise (maximum). If the system is working correctly, all of the green LED’s should be illuminated (indicating 10 on the scale). If this is not the case, you will need to take advice from the supplier. 8 Short Loop Test This tests whether there is a break in the boundary cable or a problem with the cables connecting the surge protector to the transmitter or indeed the transmitter itself. This test can only be carried out where the supplied surge protector/lightning arrestor is fitted (recommended). Open the surge protector by lifting the flap upwards where inside you will find, three copper screws. Place a screwdriver or coin across the bottom two screws,this will create a mini loop (bridge) between your transmitter and the surge protection and eliminate the boundary cable. Leave the bridge across the terminals and take the collar and multi-tool and repeat the transmitter tests. If the collar responds then you have a break/partial break in your boundary cable that you will need to locate. Fig.5 Please note: if you have a beeping noise before carrying out this test, and the green range LED is not showing on the transmitter, this will confirm that your cable is broken. Once you place the bridge across the surge protector the green LED on the transmitter should illuminate and the beeping should stop. When you remove the bridge the beeping will start again as the loop has been broken. If the green LED on the transmitter remains off and the beeping continues, there is a break in the wires between the surge protector and the transmitter unit. 9 Further Problems If you have carried out all of the above and your receiver/s are still not responding, you may have a break or partial break in your boundary cable or a joint on the boundary wire. Partial breaks often occur when the wire corrodes or degrades. If this occurs the cable will need to be replaced. If you have followed all the above tests and your transmitter receiver is still not functioning, please contact your supplier. If you have a break or partial break on your system we can offer a break finding tool for hire or a service call to trace and repair the break. 10 Keeping your System Running Know where your wire is buried Map/GPS the location of the boundary wire and indicate on the map where the joins are located. This should help in troubleshooting if a problem occurs. Check your receiver collar Test your collar fit regularly and adjust if necessary. Any time you have an animal secured, remove the collar and check the condition of the receiver, conductive strips, screws and washers and buckle. If the receiver is close to its annual battery change, carry out the replacement. Check the transmitter regularly It is also a good idea to check the lights on the transmitter regularly. Remember, the red light shows you have power to the system, green light shows there are no breaks in the wire. If you have a wire break, the green light will go out and an audible warning will sound. Test the Receiver Battery Ensure you change the receiver battery annually when in use. We offer battery programmes for all collars. If you join the battery programme you can have new batteries sent to you automatically, just when you need them! Test the Transmitter Battery If you are using leisure batteries to power your transmitter unit, ensure that you change/charge them correctly and regularly. Ask your supplier for more advice when selecting the correct batteries for use with your particular type of transmitter and for the type of battery analyser they recommend for charging the batteries. 11 If you have any queries or concerns please contact your supplier. USEFUL LINKS www.commonssensefencing.co.uk/downloads/ www.dogfence.co.uk/troubleshooting/ Commons Sense Fencing Clovelly Andrew Lane New Milton BH25 5QD Email: [email protected] Website: www.commonssensefencing.co.uk Telephone: 07453 300277 or 07774 047845 12