Lamb - Grow And Behold

Transcript

|LAMB| LAMB DEVORAH BACKMAN E VERY YEAR AT THE SEDER we commemorate the three iconic foods of Pesach – the matzah, the bitter herbs, and the Karban Pesach—the lamb sacrifice that today, of course, is only remembered symbolically. But this year can be different from all other years, when you serve succulent lamb at your Pesach holiday table. This year, Grow and Behold is proud to offer ethically raised kosher lamb for the Pesach table. The lambs used to produce this unusually tender, sweet meat are raised in the Smokey Mountains of the Shenandoah Valley in West Virginia, where they graze freely until they are collected for kosher slaughter. Then, Grow and Behold offers this delicious meat in a variety of cuts. We spoke to Naftali Hanau from Grow and Behold to learn more about what lamb options are available to the kosher consumer. 50 | JoyofKosher.com | PESACH 2015 |LAMB| LAMB ROAST: A lamb shoulder roast is a boneless cut similar to a beef roast, which lends itself well to a classic spice, rub marinade, and low, slow roast followed by a quick sear at the end of the cooking process for a beautiful dark crust and perfectly juicy meat. “Non-kosher lamb roast comes from the hind leg,” Hanau explains, “but the kosher substitute comes from the shoulder. It’s not as neat as the traditional version, so it has to be netted, but it is absolutely delicious.” He serves his roasted lamb with a savory pan sauce made with the vegetables that roasted under the lamb and collected its flavorful drippings, mixed with wine, broth, and rosemary. LAMB SHANKS: Naturally, shank meat has lots of connective tissue, which can be tough, but when cooked correctly, the gelatin in the collagen breaks down, adding a rich, smooth quality to the meat and its sauce. “Of course, lamb shanks are the most traditional cut for Passover!” says Hanau, demonstrating a simple braised shank flavored with thyme and garlic. Visit www. joyofkosher.com/magazine for Naftali's lamb shank recipe. LAMB RIBLETS: Loaded with rich, delicious natural fat, riblets are the most economical cut of lamb. “It’s very fatty,” explains Hanau, “so to get good results you need to cook it correctly.” The unctuous quality of the fatty meat is set off in many non-kosher cuisines by a light, spicy yogurt sauce, but Hanau finds that a tahini sauce and a crunchy cucumber salsa achieve the same refreshing effect. “A pinch of cayenne and sumac is my secret!” he says. LAMB CHOPS: The classic cut most of us have tasted before, Hanau says lamb chops are “so good they don’t need much!” He suggests a simple lemon pepper spice rub or a spicy coffee chili rub if you want to dress up your chops for a holiday meal, but salt and pepper is really all you need. There are three types of lamb chops, each cut from a different location along the animal—the cooking method is the same for all three, but the texture of the final result will differ slightly. There is the rainbow chop from the center of the lower shoulder, the lamb shoulder chop (a.ka. ‘second cut lamb chops’), are cut from the upper shoulder, and finally, the coveted lamb chop, which is most tender. This chop is cut from the rib, and is the analogue to a bone-in beef rib steak. We sell three different kinds of lamb chops: rainbow chops, shoulder chops, and lamb chops, all cut to ~1” thick. GROUND LAMB: A welcome change from the familiar ground beef, you can use half ground lamb, half beef to add deeper flavor to meatballs and kebabs without the final taste being too gamey. Hanau is especially fond of traditional lamb kebabs—his mother serves them at the Seder for his wife Anna, who grew up Reform and did eat lamb roast at the Seder. “You can prepare the kebabs in advance, freeze them, and then sear them just before the meal,” he recommends. “Use a neutral oil that can handle high heat, like grapeseed oil. Don’t crowd the pan! You want the meat to sear nicely, not steam. Be sure to give it time to cook properly—don’t touch the meat until it releases easily from the pan on its own.” While some experts caution that ground meat be cooked until well done when you don’t know how the raw meat was handled, using a high-quality meat source like Grow and Behold means you can enjoy your ground meat dishes at medium doneness as well. ROASTED LAMB & THE SEDER: Orthodox Jews traditionally do not eat roast lamb at the Seder, since we don’t want to imitate the sacrificial lamb of our ancestors. But the other meals of Pesach are the perfect time to savor the one-of-a-kind flavor of free-range, grass-fed lamb, just like our forefathers would have once eaten. Next year in Jerusalem! PESACH 2015 | JoyofKosher.com | 51 |LAMB| Lamb Roast with Rosemary and Sage RECIPE BY NAF HANAU 5-6 lb. lamb roast (for a smaller roast, reduce other ingredients accordingly) 2 celery stalks, cut into ¼” pieces 2 carrots, cut into ¼” pieces 2 onions, cut into ¼” pieces 1 cinnamon stick 4 branches fresh rosemary 6 pinches dried sage 2 cups dry white wine ⅔ cup red wine vinegar Splash of olive oil 6 cups chicken broth 1. Mix all ingredients except stock to create marinade. Marinate the roast in the fridge in a plastic bag or Tupperware container for 12-24 hours. Turn the roast 2-3 times during this period. 2. Preheat oven to 200°F (for convection roast), or 225°F (for regular roasting). Pour marinade into a Dutch oven, add chicken broth, and combine. Add roast to Dutch oven, and place in oven, uncovered. 3. Cook until internal temperature reaches 137°F (rare), or 142°F (medium-rare; pictured). Remove roast from Dutch oven and set on a plate to drain. Move Dutch oven to stovetop, and reduce braising liquid by at least one half (a bit more is fine), taking care not to burn. Pour reduction through cheesecloth into a gravy separator. Solids can be mashed and spread on matzah. Save strained jus (juice) to serve, warmed, with the roast. Pat roast dry if necessary, and sear all sides in a hot cast-iron or stainlesssteel pan. Remove netting before slicing. Expert Tip: “Water doesn’t sauté or roast. Dry proteins thoroughly of moisture and all marinades before cooking, in order to achieve proper browning and flavor development.” –Chef Michael Gershkovich, Mike’s Bistro 52 | JoyofKosher.com | PESACH 2015 What’s Not To Like? Manischewitz shares great new products for Passover. Try amazing Carrot Cake Macaroons, Gluten Free Matzo Ball Mix, Kosher for Passover Chicken Broth and many new gluten free products, just to name a few. With so many choices, you’ll have a #PicturePerfectPassover. PROUD TO BE AN QUALITY SINCE 1888 U COMPANY. THE OFFICIAL SPONSOR OF PASSOVER. www.manischewitz.com |LAMB| CoffeeChili Lamb Chops RECIPE BY NAF HANAU 4 shoulder/rainbow chops, or 8 lamb chops 2 teaspoons freshly ground ancho chili pepper (with seeds) 2 teaspoons freshly ground chipotle chili pepper (with seeds) ½ teaspoon freshly ground coffee ½ teaspoon raw sugar ½ teaspoon toasted garlic (granulated) Three different lamb chops from left to right: rainbow chop, shoulder lamb chop, lamb chops Pat chops with a paper towel to remove excess moisture (chops should not feel wet). Mix spices together. Sprinkle evenly on chops. Cook to medium-rare. f A note about using whole dried chili peppers: Buy dried chilies and store in an airtight jar. Chop coarsely and grind in a spice mill or coffee grinder. Excess ground chilies can be stored for a week. Lemon Pepper Lamb Chops Lemon pepper and coffee chili rubs. RECIPE BY NAF HANAU 4 shoulder/rainbow chops, or 8 lamb chops 1 teaspoon lemon pepper 1 teaspoon granulated garlic ½ teaspoon paprika Pat chops with a paper towel to remove excess moisture (chops should not feel wet). Mix spices together. Sprinkle evenly on chops. Cook to medium-rare. Serve with Fresh Mango Chutney. 54 | JoyofKosher.com | PESACH 2015 Pan-seared chops resting and ready to be enjoyed. COOKING b LAMB CHOPS The easiest way to cook any kind of lamb chop is on the grill over a high heat to your desired doneness (we prefer medium-rare; see below). Grilling chops is easy, not too messy, and it can get you a nice crust if you know your grill. However, there is a better way… We started cooking chops (and steaks) indoors when it was just too cold and nasty outside to light up the grill, and now, this is our preferred method for lamb chops. (For larger chops, preheat oven to 400 degrees.) 1.Heat a generous amount of grapeseed oil in a heavy cast-iron or stainless-steel pan over medium-high heat, large enough to hold the chops comfortably. 2.When the oil is shimmering, carefully arrange the chops in the pan. Monitor the flame to prevent burning, but don’t touch the chops for at least four minutes! After 4 minutes, gently use your tongs to try to lift a chop. If it doesn’t lift easily, it’s not ready to flip. 3.Once the chops lift cleanly and easily from the pan, they will have developed a beautiful and uniform crust, and should be flipped. This takes 4-7 minutes, depending on the pan and the stove. 4.To finish on the stove (for lamb chops, and larger rainbow or shoulder chops cooked to rare): Flip to second side. Cook another 4-7 minutes until the crust has developed and the chops pull easily without sticking. 5.To finish in the oven (for medium-rare, medium or medium-well done large chops): Flip to second side, and keep pan on heat for about 1 minute. After 1 minute, move pan into pre-heated oven to finish cooking. Large chops should get to medium-rare in about 5 minutes. After 5 minutes, remove pan from oven (use oven mitts!) and transfer to stove. 6.Check for doneness (see below). Remove from pan to plate or cutting board to rest, tented lightly with foil, for 3-4 minutes before serving. HOW DO I KNOW WHEN IT’S DONE? For most large pieces of meat, a meat thermometer is your best friend. However, with steaks and chops, we don’t recommend poking; since it’s hard to find the right place to test, you risk losing flavorful juices, and it’s not necessary. You have the perfect gauge on your own hand! Here’s how to FEEL when your steak or chop is done to your liking: Gently touch your index finger to your thumb, and with your other hand, press the meaty part of your palm at the base of your thumb. That is what rare feels like. Now touch your middle finger to your thumb. That’s medium-rare. Your ring finger is medium, and your pinky is well done. You can quickly (and carefully) press your chops to gauge for your desired doneness. If you are worried about getting burned, dip your finger in cold water first. WINE SPECTATOR TOP 100 BEST WINES OF 2014 THE ONLY ISRAELI WINE TO MAKE THE LIST ©2015 Palm Bay International Boca Raton, Fl. 8 3 26:/,9-697(::6=,9 |LAMB| Cumin Lamb Kebobs RECIPE BY: NAFTALI HANAU AND RACHEL ROSEN Serves: 8 (makes 16 cigars) 2 1 2 1 ½ lbs. ground lamb large egg garlic gloves, minced tablespoon ground cumin teaspoon black pepper (medium ground, not coarse ground) ⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper (to taste) ¼ cup matzah meal (optional, to bind. You can also substitute potato starch.) 1. Mix ingredients together and shape into cigars. Grill, broil, or pan-fry. 2. Can be made up to 1 day ahead and kept tightly wrapped in the fridge, or frozen for up to two months. Bring to room temperature before frying. 3. Serve with rice and techina (kitniyot), or with quinoa and Cucumber-Mint Salsa Lamb Kebobs with Fresh Mint and Cilantro: RECIPE BY: NAFTALI HANAU AND RACHEL ROSEN Serves: 8 (makes 16 cigars) 2 1 2 ¼ ¼ lbs. ground lamb large egg garlic cloves, minced cup mint, chopped cup cilantro, chopped (substitute parsley for cilantro haters, if you must) 1 teaspoon sumac 1 teaspoon paprika Zest and juice of 1 lemon, divided ½ cup matzah meal (optional, to bind. You can also substitute potato starch.) 1. Mix all ingredients together except for juice from ½ of the lemon. Shape into cigars. Grill, broil, or pan-fry. Squeeze reserved half lemon over cigars. 2. Can be made up to 1 day ahead and kept tightly wrapped in the fridge, or frozen for up to two months. 56 | JoyofKosher.com | PESACH 2015 |LAMB| SAUCES Cucumber-Mint Salsa RECIPE BY CHEF MOSES WENDEL, PARDES RESTAURANT 1 English cucumber ¾ jalapeno pepper, seeded 2 packed cups mint (well cleaned!) ½ packed cup dill (well cleaned!) Salt to taste Puree all ingredients in food processor until just combined. If not serving immediately, store in clean glass jar with thin layer of olive oil on top. Best served within 2 days. Easy Mango Chutney 1 fresh mango 1 teaspoon chopped fresh mint 1 teaspoon chopped fresh cilantro 1 teaspoon sumac Pinch salt Slow RoastedLamb Riblets RECIPE BY NAFTALI HANAU Riblets are often overlooked, since they are relatively fatty. While many chefs have been turning this cut into lamb bacon for a while, we are starting to see the riblets grow in popularity among home chefs as well. When slow-cooked or smoked, they become incredibly tender, and the flavor of the fat is as rich as marrow. 8 2 2 2 1½ 2 2 1 lbs. lamb riblets tablespoons turmeric tablespoons cumin tablespoons curry teaspoons baharat teaspoons toasted garlic tablespoons chili powder tablespoon black pepper 1. Combine ingredients for spice rub and mix well. Pat riblets dry, and coat generously with spice rub. Allow to sit in fridge overnight. 2. Preheat oven to 200°F. 3. Arrange riblets in a single layer in a large roasting pan, bone-side down. Add ½ cup of water to pan, and cover tightly with lid or aluminum foil, and place in oven. 4. After 1 hour, remove foil/lid, and return to oven. Roast another 4-5 hours. Remove pan from oven, and increase temperature to 450°F. Baste riblets with the fat that has rendered out, and return to hot oven to brown for 10-20 minutes, until a crust has formed. Dice mango into ⅛ to ¼” pieces. Add other ingredients. Serve immediately. Simple Techinah 16 ozs. tahini 4 cloves garlic Juice from 1½ lemons Water (amount varies) Cayenne pepper (to taste) Salt (to taste) 1. Chop garlic in food processor until fine. Add tahini and lemon juice, and blend until combined. Add water slowly until desired consistency is reached (about 1-2 cups). Add salt and cayenne to taste. 2. We keep our techinah relatively thick and store it in the fridge. For sauces and dressings, we’ll just thin a few spoonfuls with water, and add fresh herbs. Techinah Sauce with Cilantro and Mint (FOR KEBABS AND RIBLETS) ½ cup Simple Techinah 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro 1 tablespoon chopped mint Thin techinah with water to desired consistency, mix well, and add herbs. 5. Serve hot with techinah (kitniyot), arugula, and sauerkraut. 6. Can be prepared up to 4 days in advance. Cool completely, uncovered, then store in fridge wrapped in foil. Reheat, uncovered, at 170-200°F. PESACH 2015 | JoyofKosher.com | 57