Transcript
:
FRET-SAWING AND
WOOD- CARVING FOR AMATEURS. BY
GEORGE
A.
lUastratcb from Original
SAWYER.
Jratoings bg t^e ^otl^or.
" Carved with figures strange and sweet, All
made out
of the carver's brain."
Sam' I- T. Coleridge.
BOSTON LEE AND SHEPARD, PUBLISHERS. NEW YORK: LEE, SHEPARD,
AND DILLINGHAM.
1875-
Entered according to Act of Congress,
GEORGE
A.
in the
year 1874, by
SAWYER,
In the Office ot the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.
Bcston:
Elbctrotvped and Printkd by Rand. Avery.
& Ca
(.V
'he
,
^^
^
^r-,
-*-
^:5fe
writer contributed, during the past year,
a series of articles on wood-carving to that
most delightful
of
young
folks'
magazines,
Scribner's " St. Nicholas."
The unexpected
interest displayed in them,
and the many questions asked not only by
unknown correspondents, encourage
friends, but
by
the hope that a more
complete description of the tools and mode of work might not be unacceptable little
bark
is
;
and
it
is
with this thought that this
launched upon the sea of books.
Whatever the shortcomings or the merits is
freighted with the desire to carry
its
of its cargo,
burden into many
a happy port, and leave nothing but that which
and helpful
it
in its results. 3
is
healthful
PREFACE.
4 Especially
is it
younger members course
may
direct
not be entirely in
becoming
uses,
may
consigned to the restless energies of the of the household, in the
them
lost,
in channels
where
hope that
its
their labors will
and where the time pleasantly passed
familiar with
in after life
even these simple
become
tools
and their
valuable.
G. A. S. Germantown,
Phila., Pa.
.
CONTENTS. PAGE
,
Introduction
7
Tools and Accessories for Fret-Sawing
lo
Tools and Accessories for Carving
14
Saw-Frames and Saws
21
Miscellaneous Tools
28
Sharpening Tools
-,-,
Woods
^6
Glue, Varnish, Oiling, and Polishing
.
\
.
.
Copying and Transferring Patterns
How How
to Use the
.
43 48
Saw
ci
to Use the Carving-Tools
^^
Description of Plates
58 5
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING FOR AMATEURS.
fRET-SAWING
has, within a few years past,
a popularity rather hard to realize by those within the pale of
day
it is
many or the
its
fascinations
;
but
it is
jumped
who
are not
a fact that to-
one of the most popular of home amusements.
a pleasant
home
is
heard the gentle
more sonorous buzz
z-z-z of the
of the jig-machine
;
into
Within
handsaw,
and walls and
tables everj'where are loaded with the results of these labors.
Good, bad, and
indifferent, large
and small, dark and
light,
brackets, easels, book-racks, picture-frames, and other things too
numerous them, and
to mention, still
spasmodic, and
amount of
The
— the
they come. will
houses and shops are alike
A
die out
;
good deal
full
of
of this enthusiasm
is
but there yet remains a large
solid interest to be provided for.
true secret of this suddenly acquired popularity lies in
the fact that this
amusement
is
within the reach of almost every 7
.
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
8 one, that
easily acquired, costs but
it is
ductive of
good
results.
It
little,
and
really pro-
is
keeps us happily busy, gives us a
resource for rainy days, and helps us recall ourselves pleasantly the
to
remembrance of those
thinking of them while
whom we
friends,
we make some
pretty
gratify
little
by
object to
adorn their rooms.
For the young
particularly, this is a
Its influences are alone for
and
elevating.
It
good,
most desirable
associations solely refining
its
does not take them to improper places, nor
bring them in contact with doubtful characters. their taste for the
mechanical arts
helpful in the use of the tools
they a
may have
means
for
it
;
tends to develop any talent
it
;
drawing and designing
;
and
it
may become
of future profit as well as present pleasure. too,
it
has
its
charms.
can buy brackets, boxes, portfolios, and a thousand other
and more
things, cheaper perhaps,
ever likely to produce them
derived from the Slippers are fully
It cultivates
makes them handy and
For the older members of the family,
We
pursuit.
all
gift of
;
an
but
finely executed, than
who can
are
estimate the pleasure
done by some dear hand
article
?
well enough in their way, but the most care-
kept ones will not wear forever.
monogram
we
prettily wrought,
A
handkerchief, with our
makes a very tender souvenir
;
but
they are apt to get "blown off the
line, sur,"
Neckties are charming, but fleeting
even the bright colors of
;
and disappear.
a pincushion fade, and the stitches fray with constant use.
When, however, John
gives Jane
a rosewood box with her
INTRODUCTION.
monogram
inlaid in
the top, and
trays inside for her jewels
all
9 sorts of convenient little
or her spools
;
or Jane gives
her portrait in a frame of her own sawing and carving, reasonably sure that the gift will last for recall us, in pleasant its
beauties by mellowing
Let
us, then,
many
memories, and that time its tints
John
— we
feel
a long year to
will
and harmonizing
only add to its
tones.
gather up our tools, lay in a stock of beautiful and
enduring wood, and prepare ourselves to become skilled work-
men
in this pleasant field.
Coals [HIS ter
little ;
aitb
work
and, as
it
^cassorus to
airrls
may
for Jfwt-Saioiwg.
ba entirely practical
fall into
the
in its charac-
hands of those away from
the cities where opportunities exist for personal examination is
and
given
inquiry, the ;
and,
when
approximate cost of the different necessary,
more than one kind
described, so that an intelligent selection
course there are
many kinds
would be very useful
;
;
is
Of
and there are other methods of
but the writer usually offers only
own experience has proved
which
trial.
repay
tool
may be made.
those which his will
articles
mentioned here, which
of tools, not
to possess
work besides those described
of
satisfactory,
and
For simple fret-sawing, the tools required are few and inexpensive.
Pretty good work can be done by a clever boy with only a jack-knife and an old cigar-box
;
indeed,
we have
toiled
with nothing more than these for months at a time
cheap tools enlarge one's are greatly to be desired.
field as a lens
;
away
but a few
does one's vision, and
TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES FOR FRET-SAWING.
As a commencement, something suggested
A
:
like the following
holes
down
a few small
;
inequalities left
any pattern
;
and smooth
a pocket-knife of almost
;
If
— the whole
you add to these a
which includes the awl before mentioned, and
some
chisels
and other useful implements
oil-stone for sharpening your knife
mend broken
glue-pot to
an awl with which to
and two or three sheets of sandpaper,
tools,
has, besides,
;
to finish the work,
files
by the saw
costing between two and three dollars.
handle of
might be
—
saw-frame with a dozen fret-saws
drill
II
parts,
;
and an
and other edged tools; a
and fasten others
;
a bottle of
linseed-oil or shellac-varnish for polishing finished work,
additional lot costing perhaps two dollars more,
— you
an outfit equal to almost any ordinary demands.
add a small plane, a
drill of
and a
of different sizes,
have
If to these
some kind with a number
set of small
— the
will
you
of drills
carving-tools, the whole
costing about five or six dollars, you have a complete equip-
ment
;
and there
is
nothing more to wish for except a saw run-
ning by foot-power like a sewing-machine.
Without
however, you can do excellent and finished work.
saw
will
only do
a
it
good deal
faster,
as tht sewing-machine accomplishes
the unaided
hand
;
but there
is
and
this last,
The
treadle-
with less fatigue, just
work so much
faster than
perhaps the same temptation to
elaborate
and multiply work with the treadle-machine, that
there
add tucks and
it
is
to
seems so easy
to do,
frills
and
is
when one uses a sewing-machine so quickly done.
;
'
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
12
Let US recapitulate.
List of tools which are essential for fret-sawing
A A
—
saw-frame,
dozen assorted saws,
An
awl to bore holes,
Half a dozen
A
•
files,
few sheets of sand or glass paper.
List of additional tools which
may Handle
it is
convenient to possess,
and which
be purchased at once if possible:-^
of tools.
Oil-stone,
Glue-pot,
Two
or three
Bottle of
for holding glued objects,
or varnish,
oil
Archimedian
With these
wooden screw-clamps
drill
to
with six small
commence
with,
drills.
you can do any of the ordi-
nary samples of fret-sawing with satisfaction and success if
you are only taking up the occupation
pose, or as a
means
of whiling
would otherwise hang for
heavily,
for a
;
and
temporary pur-
away some spare moments which and not from any
real fondness
mechanical pursuits, we would advise your being content
with these.
For those, however, who have had previous experience, or
3
TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES FOR FRET-SAWING. strong mechanical tastes and
for people of
would recommend extending the
some
1
leisure,
we
by the addition of one
list
of
the several kinds of treadle scroll-sawing machines with which the market at prices
and
is
abundantly supplied, and which can be procured
ranging
the
all
way from ten
Without venturing
fifty.
ent rivals for public favor, points which
is
it
dollars to one
to discriminate
it is
hundred
between the
differ-
suggested that there are a few
necessary that the
machine should
fulfil.
should be well and strongly made, and yet not too heavy to
It
be portable.
It
The fewer
should be symmetrical and graceful.
the parts, and the simpler
its
formation, the better
;
and
it
should
be readily adjustable to carry saws of different sizes and lengths and,
lastly, it
machine that
will
fill
these requirements, and
still
come within
the reach of the average pockets of the people, will soon its
;
The
should run with great rapidity and ease.
make
way.*
A A
small smoothing-plane such as piano-makers use,
A
try-square,
A
gauge,
light
hammer,
may be added ble to the
as they are needed,
and
will
advanced workman who intends
* The " Fleetwood " Machine, which we
use,
is
to us entirely satisfactory,
furnished at a less price than any other with which
ones were
made with a
treadle for
an essential improvement.
one
foot.
We
be found indispensato excel.
we
are acquainted.
The
and
is
older
regard the double-foot treadle as
;
11.
Cools anb %ca%Boxus
[HOUGH
good specimens
fully finished, are
of fret-sawing, well
pleasing,
the rich effect of the sawing
and is
to
many
point of view, by calling to our aid the
artistic
and there
an opportunity to display
is
A
possess.
dozen people
will
;
satisfactory,
no
all
the ability and power
limit to our fancy,
take the same design, and
much
the sanie style
and except that one
will
smoothly, and one roughly, the general effect will be at last the
same
;
but, put the carver's tools into their hands,
same specimens when finished
vary
all
something which would be acceptable
'as
Next
is
drawing and painting, there
to
readily
shows the refinement of
cation of the
hand and
flower or a leaf
number
will
is
taste
and
the
do
it
much
and the
way from bad
a work of fine
to
art.
nothing which more feeling,
and the edu-
eye, than the few strokes with
cut out of a solid block of
of successful wood-carvers should 14
and
chisels
is
with a fret-saw cut out the pattern in very they have a line to follow
and care-
greatly heightened, in an
gouges of the carver; and here there
we
dTarbmg.
for
wood
;
which a
and the
be as much greater
PLATE
I.
— For description
see "Tools for Carving."
STRAIGHT CARVING TOOLS. Chisel.
Skew
Chisel.
Parting Tool.
Chisel.
Parting
IMPRESSIONS OF THE EDGES OF TOOLS. Chisels.
h
Gouges. ~^
Fluting Gouge.
^
Parting
TooL
TooL
TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES FOR CARVING. than the number of successful pursuit
The
is
the
more
tools required for carving
more
excellence in the one
easily acquired than in the other.
the fret-saw need not be are
artists, as
work previously prepared by
numerous or expensive, though there
difficulties in the
way
of
making
a proper selection
here than in the. case of the fret-sawing appliances.
own
help detailing our
Some time
after
We
cannot
experience.
making our
small piece of work, on which
which came with the to
15
little
first
essay at real carving on a
we used
the chisels and gouges
handle of tools previously mentioned,
which we had added one or two of our own home manu-
facture,
and
we one day went
asked to see
into a large
some wood-carving
hardware establishment, tools.
The
clerk cout
ducted us to the rear of the shop, and, going up to a long coun-
we wished. We replied that we were only an amateur, and had come to see what they had, and what one needed in the way of a small set for general work. The gentleman smiled when he said, "We ter,
threw open two large drawers, and asked what
have here chisels and gouges of eight or nine different patterns
and shapes, commencing
at one-sixteenth of
an inch wide, and
increasing by sixteenths up to two inches, or more, all
one hundred and
fifty
any thing about them. sizes
they
every
tools
;
— probably
and we don't pretend
to
in
know
Usually workmen come in with the
and shapes they need punched on a piece of board, and
make
their selection to suit their particular
man wants
a different
lot.
We
work; and
can give no advice."
;;
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
l6
After looking them
we
retired in despair,
and con-
cluded to go into the workshops, and see what the
men who
over,
all
used them had to say about
Here we were more
it.
successful
and from them, and other sources of information, we decided that a suit
tools,
that
dozen or eighteen of the
the particular
however, are
is,
work all
sizes
under one half inch would
which we wished them.
for
and
large,
to a certain extent
These
awkward
;
they are designed to stand the ordinary rough usage of
and
the workshop,
in so far are not
adapted to the more careful
handling of the amateur, particularly when the amateur
we made a pattern
lady; and so
a skilful and willing workman, satisfaction after our
own
some trouble
and, after
;
we had a
set
made
a
is
to find
to our entire
designs.
For ordinary work, however, the tools imported from England (we cannot find that there country),
and kept
and the prices range from for the sizes
We
under one
will give
is
any manufactory
in the large tool-stores,
a select
of
them
in this
cannot be excelled
thirty-five to seventy-five cents apiece
half-inch.
of one dozen,
list
general work, such as has been described.
do heavier work, or wish
to
and of eighteen for
Those who want
extend the range of
it,
to
can add
other tools, or, rather, different sizes of these same ones, as
they find out their needs.
be gotten to fair start,
them.
It
is
suggested that no more tools
commence with than
are necessary to
make a
but the 'collection extended as experience calls for
7
TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES FOR CARVING, List of tools for carving: 3
1
—
flat chisels, I
.
.
.
I
.
.
.
I
.
.
.
\ inch wide,
tV "
"
"
"
i
3 shallow gouges, I
.
.
\ inch wide.
.
I
.
.
.
I
.
.
.
A
"
"
i
"
"
3 deep gouges, I
.
.
I
.
.
I
.
\ inch wide.
.
3
.
i
.
U
((
"
"
I
skew
I
parting-tool,
^"
"
I
fluting-gouge, \ "
"
chisel, \ inch wide,
The above
When
are
the
extend the
list
all
straight tools.
paragraph above was written, we intended to
by
six
more
tools.
But we find
that, after getting
beyond those already mentioned, generalization becomes more difficult
;
and instead we have added figures of the bent
(see plate of carving-tools), tions suitable for the
We
will
work
from which each can make
in
tools selec-
hand, or to suit particular needs.
only say that the bent parting-tool, and bent fluting-
gouge, are very generally useful.
They
are the
same
sizes as
;
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
15
and
the Straight ones,
only in the curve of the blade,
differ
which permits their use
in depressions of
the
work where a
straight tool will not reach.
There
another tool of which we have not given a figure,
is
—a
round
chisel with the
edges
but often noticed in the books, called a macaroni,
name
for a square thing,
it
being a
make an
turned up, and would
;
but the parting-tool
accomplish the same work, difficult to
The
and a
and the macaroni
is
It is
|.
|
away the waste wood next
chiefly useful in cutting
nent veins of foliage
flat
impression like this
the promiflat
chisel
extremely
sharpen, and keep in order.
other bent tools are more valuable on work of greater
depth than any we are likely to have but where
sawing
;
Where
it is
in
connection with
they are needed they are
fret-
indispensable.
intended to have the carved work raised on a level
ground, a pick or checkering punch
This
fiat surface.
effect
may
is
useful in breaking
up the
often be seen on what are called
stencilled picture-frames so popular two or three years ago.
Diaper-carving
work.
The
is
another
side of the figure
is
of
effect
is
;
and
all
the
wood
out-
stamped with a checkering punch.
All parts of this work,
the
for a very similar kind
wood-engraver
tool or the graver of the
and the
name
outlines of the design are carved with a parting-
entirely
it
will
be seen, are on the same level
dependent upon the contrast between
smooth parts of the design, and the stamping of the ground-
work.
A
pattern with broad lines, after the style of plate
2,
TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES FOR CARVING. for this kind of
would be of suitable character
19
work
small box, or the cover to a book, would be an
;
and a
appropriate
example.
The checkering punch may have one
,„
or four,
shapes
;
!!,
an asterisk
or like
*,
point, thus,
',
or three,
or a variety of
other
and the amateur can make them himself by taking a
piece of round or square steel-wire four inches long, and threesixteenths or a quarter of an inch in diameter, and filing one end into the desired shape.
After the carving
is
finished,
and the whole ground-work by a that
light
one of these punches covered with
left
is
taken,
figure indented
its
blow with the mallet, and the surface not
regularly,
The carved
not in regular lines, but evenly pitted.
is,
being
is
smooth and untouched, forms with
this
part,
roughened
surface a stronger contrast.
Besides the tools above mentioned, you will need one or two clamps, or hold-fasts, of which a good pattern
where, and a light wooden
hardware store
;
mall^et,
and one or two
is
figured else-
which can be procured slips,
in
any
as they are called, of
Ouachita, or preferably of Arkansas oil-stone, to sharpen the inside of the gouges
The they
all
dollars, with fitted.
hand and the ;
own
tools of our
fifteen
and
parting-tools.
pattern,
a single
spoken of above, cost about
adjustable
handle
into
which
This was for one set very carefully made by price
was altogether too large
ble for popular use.
We
to
make them
availa-
are in hopes of being able to get
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
20
some more made
in
considerable numbers at a reasonable
rate.
A
set
of carving tools
maker, would
cost, for
forty cents apiece.
by Addis, the celebrated London
one dozen assorted, about
thirty-five or
PLATE
II.
CORNER BRACKET.
III.
[HERE
are so
sale, that
in this
we
many
dififerent
feel the
patterns of saw-frames for
importance of setting the tyro right
matter upon which our success so greatly depends
and we therefore give a few
brief
;
remarks upon some of the
kinds which have come under our notice.
The thing,
smallest, simplest, is
No.
I,
and
one
of which
we know any
the
one figured
the
and handiest,
in is
we
would recom-
mend
to those ^'°-
without previ-
'•
Adjustable Saw-Frame.
ous practice, and especially for children's use.
It is also the
cheapest, costing from one dollar to a dollar and a half, accord-
ing to the make.
can be done with
The it,
objection to
it
is,
that only small
work
the distance from the saw-blade to the back
of the frame, only about two
and a half inches, being the
limit.
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
22
These frames are
made abroad, and we do not know
all
any manufacturer of them
demand among
artisans
advantage they have
They
anywhere.
in this
is
country
they can be
that
are sold under the various
or jeweller's, or mechanical saw-frames
and one
obtained almost
names
and even
;
of
but they are in great
professions,
different
of
;
of dentist's,
you subse-
if
quently treat yourself to a larger one, or to a treadle-machine, they will be useful for bility.
This
is
many purposes on account
also the only
frame
in
of their porta-
which the back
ble to broken saws, or blades of varying lengths
;
and
is
it
adjusta-
possesses
an additional value on that account.
The next
pattern in point of size
No.
2,
which
we have that
it
something
is
is
just
also
much
like
one
been describing except
has,no method of adjustment;
an objection which applies to other patterns which will tioned.
figure
like the
It
will,
all
the
be men-
however, do larger
work, the distance from the saw-blade to the
back varying
different
makes from
six to fourteen Fig.
2.
Saw-Frame.
eight or nine inches
than one larger that
;
it
distance from
is
inches.
For Ordinary work one
plenty large, and more easily
being remembered,
in
that, as
managed
you can saw
each edge of your board, an eight-inch
SAW-FRAMES AND SAWS. saw
cut
will
on a board a foot or fourteen
satisfactorily
inches wide, and that
23
quite sufficient for any ordinary hand-
is
work.
The next kind No.
of
saw-frames are varying styles of figure
We
3.
have never used one of these,
and
do not
so
speak from
personal e X
pe
ence
;
r i-
but this pattern
is
the kind that has probably
been most used by amateurs England, where fret-sawing
The long frame upper arm, and
some one as light
it
of this
in this country,
is
saw requires
would seem
to be
of the smaller kinds.
In
fact,
to
in
to use than
But
it
made
does larger work,
having to turn the wood
and we know ladies use
the best specimens of
be supported on the
should therefore be
and symmetrical as possible.
;
in
more fatiguing
It
and the large opening saves trouble less frequently
and
even more popular than here.
it
with great success.
hand fret-sawing we have
yet
seen were at the rooms of the Sorrento Wood-Carving Co. in Boston, where the walls were hung with the
work, ment.
all
done,
we were
told,
by the ladies
most beautiful of the establish-
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
24
In figure No. 4 friend,
which
is
a pattern of a saw-frame invented by a
too good to be kept longer restricted to the
is
favored few ; and the dimensions of one of good size are given, that any one with a few tools,
mind,
may
easily
make
and a
slight
clamps to take the ends of the saw-blades
Fig. 4.
The whole last
mechanical turn of
for themselves, only at
having to get the
any machine-shop.
Foot Jig-Saw.
cost will not be greater than any of the larger styles
mentioned
;
and we think, where one has
facilities for getting
and as
them made,
that they will be found as useful,
operated, as
any saw not having a regular balanced movement
like the treadle-machines.
They
are,
easily
however, less desirable for
ladies' use.
The arms
are thirty-six inches long, and
made
of black wal-
SAW-FRAMES AND SAWS.
Seven inches from the end, the sticks
one inch square.
nut,
are planed off to a taper,
worked down
25
and
left
The
square.
to a long, graduated, elastic,
rest of the
arm
round rod; the
two inches being square, and through which holes are bored
These clamps are made
take the saw-clamps.
with a square shank to
fit
;
the saw,
is
to
Screw the arms on a
screw, in which to fasten the saw-blade.
screws.
and a nut
and a jaw, confined by a thumb-
piece of inch board, six inches or so square
when using
to
like the figure,
the hole in the arm,
screw down, and hold them fast
is
last
and
;
this board,
fastened to a box or table by a clamp or
Fasten a wooden saw-horse, like the one figured
else-
where, on the table opposite the saw, the blade being close into the
V cleft
;
and on
this place the
work. -Be careful, when fasten-
ing the arms to the board, that the saw-blade dicular, so that,
when
it is
This
the cut will be true.
is
exactly perpen-
drawn down by the action is
worked
of the foot,
to the best advantage
by a
strap or stirrup from the lower arm, into which the heel of the
boot
is
put, the ball of the foot resting
on the
on a block of wood an inch or two high. fatiguing than might be
considerable period.
its
work
;
;
or, better, is
less
imagined, and can be kept up for a
This arrangement makes a cut
angles to the surface of the wood, and to guide the
floor
The motion
it
at right
leaves both hands free
advantages which go far to compensate for
disadvantages.
All the saw-blades for these
frames are made abroad,
in
;
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
26
Germany
and vary
principally,
teeth are not visible except
in size
fine that the
upon very close examination,
coarse enough to take one of the
They are numbered from
teeth.
from one so
first
to 5
i
the No.
;
i 's
eighty teeth to the inch, and the No. 5's about thirty. still
ones than these, numbered 000, 00, and
finer
With a treadle-saw,
used for cutting metal. silver, &c.,
may be
one its
have about
There are o,
and are
thin brass, copper,
sawed, and monograms, and other ornaments
for inlaying or overlaying
wood-work, may be executed very
Monograms done
beautifully.
to
kind between each of
French
in ivory or
handsome and appropriate adornments
for
gilt,
make
a prayer-book or
Bible.
The medium and sawing
;
coarse sizes, Nos. 3 to
and two dozen
will last a
5,
are best for fret-
long time.
Being made by
machinery, they are sold very cheaph', retailing in this country for twenty or thirty cents a dozen.
There are
still
coarser saw-blades
made
at
home, and specially
adapted to the particular machine for which they are designed
;
and, in using a treadle-machine for sawing any thing thicker than
one-eighth of an inch, they are more useful than a finer one also in preparing
wood
used are made by the are excellent.
They
to
be carved.
Trump
cost
fifty
The only ones we have
Brothers, Wilmington, Del., and
cents a dozen.
All these smaller implements can safely be ordered and sent
by mail
;
but, for the
things for himself,
occasional
workman who
we may mention
that very
likes to
make
good saw-blades
SAW-FRAMES AND SAWS. can be made from discarded hoop-skirt with a
file.
A
number of pieces
steel, cutting
27 the teeth
of the desired length
may be
fastened together by clamps, or hand-vises, at the ends, and the
whole
filed
out at once with buc Uttle more labor than a single
one would require.
IV. [istcUaiuous Cools.
[HE handle
of tools (see figure 5, which, however,
shows
only a portion of the tools), mentioned with the fret-sawing
implements,
is
an extremely convenient
have
article to
the its
in
house, besides usefulness in this
particular direction.
There
are
kinds in ket
;
several
mar-
the
but this will be
found
to
combine
as many advantages,
any of
perhaps, as
them. About twenty small tools,
drivers, sink,
screw-
counter-
chisels,
awls,
brads, &c., are
cluded handle, Fig.
5.
Brad-Awls, &c, with Hollow Handle.
they
all
in the
in-
same
into which fit,
and are
PLATE
III.
WALL BRACKET.
MISCELLANEOUS TOOLS.
When
securely held while in use.
wrench
all
go
not in use, the tools and
which thus occupies but
into the hollow handle,
and can be sold
space,
little
cost of this style
Figures 6 and
is
7
at a
29
most reasonable
about a dollar and a half, or
less.
are given of two kinds of clamps.
both useful in holding glued
articles,
The
price.
They
are
and the
metal one with the single screw for fastening
wood
A nail
to the
bench while being carved.
convenient way of securing wood
two thin
strips
is
to
on the work-bench
at
each other, and place the
right angles to
article in the angle.
As
the carving
is
done
principally by pushing the tools, the strips
make a
point of support, and prevent the
article
from slipping away.
of the
work
of course
and
do
When
are delicately carved, to subject
them
in that case the
or
a piece
;
will
not
clamp may be used.
also be fastened
under side
it
to this pressure,
The work may screws, to
the edges
by a screw,
of board
the screws being put
from the into the
carving in the thickest part, and where they Figs. 6
will not interfere
When
and
7.
Clamps.
with the use of the tools.
carving fret-work after sawing,
it
may sometimes be
to.put a long screw through a hole in the work-bench, or a
best
good
sized piece of board, pass the point of the screw through one of
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
30
«
wooden block on
the openings of the fret-work, and screw a
the point as a nut, and turn
work
it
down
enough to hold the
close
tightly.
Smaller pieces of
wood
be carved may also be glued to a
to
larger piece of pine board, and the latter fastened in any easy way.
Put a piece of thin paper between the two glued
when
it is
The paper
thin table-knife.
The
articles,
and,
desired to separate them, carefully insert the blade of a
drill
will split,
(No. 8) figured here
and
as
is
is
and permit
known
their parting.
as the Archimedian,
good as any we have yet
six sizes of drills furnished with the stock
may be added by
getting the
grinding the shanks to
make a
fit
There are
seen.
common
the stock.
;
and more
twist-drills,
The
and
twist-drills
perfectly clean, clear hole, which can be used
advantageously for ornamental purposes.
Some
of the treadle-machines have drilling-attach-
ments, which would supersede the use of the handdrills.
A
small plane has been mentioned as very con-
venient.
made of
a
The one we have
for piano-makers, little
less
than
in
and
figure (No. 9) of
explains
itself.
A
is
a
one-half the
costs full price, about a dollar
The
use
the
piece of
and a
is
an implement
smoothing-plane usual
size,
but
half.
saw-horse
sufficiently
board has a V-shaped
notch cut in one or both ends, two or three inches
31
MISCELLANEOUS TOOLS. deep.
fastened to a table or work-bench, with the
The horse
is
m
V
i
over the edge, and
end protecting
the it
work
laid
is
when will
on
saw
so that the
Saw-Horse.
Fig. 9.
in operation
be close in the angle, and the horns of
on either side
the horse
will
support the
wood. In the
dozen
half a
any kind
which
list
is
of fret-sawing tools, there are files
do,
will
so
much
which works so
mentioned.
While almost
we have
upon a
hit
style
more convenient to use, and
satisfactorily, that
we cannot
forbear giving a figure (No. 10) and description of them.
They
are
made
of eighth-inch wire,
two inches of the round wire being left on They can be bought to serve as a handle.
by the dozen kinds
alike.
for about seventy-five cents, all
A
flat
one, a round one, a half-
and half-round, a square, a three-cornered, and a knife-edged, are the kinds recom-
flat
mended.
For finishing
indispensable. of the Figs. 10
AND
II.
Files.
will
flat,
fine
work, these are
For large work, larger
sizes
square, round, and round and
be found useful.
flat,
These cannot be gotten
FRpT-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
32 of the
handled
Peter Stubs'
style
files
;
and any hardware
are the best in the world,
more than the commoner ones not Another very useful called
rifflers,
store will supply them.
or bent
file
files,
is
and cost but
little
half as good.
shaped
like
fig.
ii.
and are very desirable
They for
are
smooth-
ing the hollow surface of a leaf or petal of a flower after carving,
and
for other places
not reach.
where a piece of
They can be procured
at
flat
sand-paper would
places
where dental
instruments are kept, and are sold for about twenty cents each.
There are other shapes besides the one
figured.
V.
LL
A
edge-tools require frequent sharpening.
makes hard and poor work, and
dull tool
a constant aggrava-
is
To keep them in order, an oil-stone must be Ouachita-stones, three always at hand, and often made use of. or four inches long and two or three wide, may be purchased tion.
for fifteen or twenty cents,
and
will serve a
good purpose
;
but
the very best stones are Arkansas, which give the finest and
most enduring edge.
One
of
and
will
the size mentioned
be entirely
in
costly, but will
above
will
last
forever.
cost nearly a dollar,
satis-
a box to preserve
them clean and dust and
amateur in
are
They should be
factory.
kept
They
grit;
free
from
and
the
will take pleasure
making a box
for this
purpose himself of some pretty
wood.
stone
down on
Lay
the Fig. 12,
Oil-Stone and Box.
a piece of 33
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
34
wood
a
surface,
little
larger than
and then dig
it
itself,
and mark
Repeat the same thing
of the stone.
the stone, and plane
from
oil-stone,
of
which
oil,
dirt, it is
is
Keep
also.
out,
a
on the
fine
soft,
on
it
Give
it
is
Besides the
fall.
upon
top
the-
thick leather, moistened with
emery-powder.
little vial
kerosene, always at hand.
place
and your stone
well to have a small block of wood,
glued a piece of
;
box even.
and breakage from a chance
and sprinkled with
cover
outline
for a cover
the edges of the
all
two or three coats of shellac inside and safe
its
out with a chisel to about half the depth
of sweet
oil,
This
may have
neat's-foot, or
Put a few drops on the
a
even
oil-stone, lay
the bevelled or sloping edge of your chisels and gouges
on
flat
the stone, holding them steadily with both hands, and not bear-
ing too hard, and
move them
rock the gouges from side to their
to
and
fro
;
being careful to slowly
side, so as to
bring every part of
Try
rounded edges successively tq bear upon the stone.
the edge occasionally by drawing
it
and continue the whetting
of paper, sharft cut.
The
on the stone
;
across a shaving, or piece till it
makes an even,
clean,
other side of the chisel will need a few touches
and the inside of the gouges and parting-tool
require rubbing with a slip of Arkansas-stone ground to
curves and angles
;
will
fit
the
the gouges being held in the left hand,
and
the slip applied with the right, taking care that the fingers are
kept well back, and out of reach in case of a chance tool.
slip of the
After getting a satisfactory edge by the above means,
draw the
tools a
few times over the leather and emery, and they
SHARPENING TOOLS. can be kept
each other
;
good condition with but
in
the edges of
tools protected
all
and
it is
keep them
effects of
The is
little
trouble.
Keep
from injury or rubbing against
well to place them, after using, in a box or
rack, where they will be safe. to
31?
in order, but a
It is
more
a comparatively easy thir;g difficult
one
to repair the
rough usage.
oil-slip
a piece
of
previously mentioned
(see
stone about two inches
one wide, shaped
like
a
thick
fig.
13)
long,
and
knife-blade; the
edge for whetting the inner angle of the partingtool,
and the thick rounded back
the gouges. thin
end
It is still better if
for the
tapering, the
small gouges, and the thick end
for the large ones.
cents.
for the inside of
made
They
cost twenty-five or thirty Fig.
13.
Oil-Slip.
VL
[OR
and carving, the most desirable and
fret-sawing
procured wood
is
easily
black walnut, sawed not more than one-
fourth of an inch in thickness, and planed smooth
both
This wood
sides.
with which
it is
is
of universal popularity
worked, and
tiful grain,
make
adornment.
It
its
;
on
and the ease
handsome dark color and beaukinds of
household
should cost about from six to ten
cents per
very suitable for
it
all
square foot, of the thickness named.
White holly
is
another very popular wood
difficult
to procure,
demand
for
;
wood has
and the grain
exposed
to the air
where gas shellac
if
is
burned
it is
large towns
in
is
it
;
;
but
it
a light creamy
more
is
where there
and carving purposes.
for fret-sawing
it
freshly cut, this fact
except
tint,
is
a
When
almost white in
nearly as fine and close as ivory.
If
gradually discolors, particularly in rooms
and
it is
well to give
it
a coat of bleached
desirable to preserve the fresh white color.
It
makes a good contrast with black walnut, rosewood, or other dark woods
;
and work done 36
in
it,
and glued on a dark back-
PLATE
IV.
TABLE EASEL
WOODS.
37
ground of any of the above-mentioned woods, wUl be found very effective.
White holly comes occasionally as wide as ten or twelve inches
;
but
wood
a very difficult
it is
and
to
keep
in stock, as
it
both
so hard as to be troublesome to plane.
warps and
splits,
Indeed,
cannot be planed perfectly smooth, but must be
it
it is
finished with a scraper
and a
;
skilful
cabinet-maker
person likely to make a satisfactory job of
it.
when buying
it is
to get
it,
ready for use.
it
It costs,
at places where
It
when prepared, from
is
the only
would be
well,
kept planed and
ten to fifteen cents
per square foot, for thicknesses from one-eighth to one-quarter of an inch.
Maple is
is fine
grained, and sometimes handsomely figured, but
rather hard to
work
;
the saw seeming to drag in working
a very tiresome manner.
It
would be useless
it,
in
to try to cut with
a hand-saw a greater thickness than about three-sixteenths of an
inch
and
;
ble size.
that
would be very
It costs
from
difficult for a
design of considera-
six to ten cents.
Cherry and mahogany are both excellent for our purposes.
They
are
somewhat
similar in color,
being a native wood, cents.
Mahogany
is
is
less,
at
veneers, but
is
in
five
Cherry, to ten
thicknesses of a quarter inch
from forty cents down. occasionally useful for a
work, or to contrast with other woods. 4
well.
from
about three times as expensive.
Rosewood can be gotten and
and work
the cheaper, costing
It
is
usually seen in
handsome piece It is
of fret-
very fragrant also,
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
38
and should be oiled and polished, instead of varnished,
bring
to
out this quality.
Red cedar
is
stripes fade
protect
it
on exposure
long.
It
Its
to the light,
a delightful
is
carving.
tools.
do
It will
to
Jhandsome mottles and purple
and even varnish does not
wood
to whittle, but
hard to work, from a gritty brittleness which causes
under the
known
a beautiful and fragrant native wood,
us usually in lead-pencils.
rather
to splinter
it
for fret-sawing, but is
poor for
It is also costly.
Satin-\yood
is
another very handsome variety of a yellow
with a fine grain, and beautiful markings
and
;
is
tint,
suitable for all
kinds of fret-work, or for panelling in contrast with darker
woods.
It is delightfully
dust from the saw
men
is
fragrant
when being
cut
;
said to be so poisonous, that
working
at the mills object to
in
it
have not experienced any effects from
but the fine
some work-
any quantities.
this
We
cause, and do not
think any fears need bCxfelt by the amateur on this account.
A
satin-wood panel with ornaments of ebony veneer, the whole finely
sand-papered and shellacked,
not so often seen that one
extremely effective, and
apt to tire of
is
Olive-wood can be gotten
is
in the cities
;
it.
and,
if
pieces can be
procured which were brought from the Holy Land, put to most appropriate use
in
making the carved
it
can be
sides for a
prayer-book or Bible, or in making crosses, buttons, and other
ornaments for personal
works well either
to
use.
saw or
The wood is very handsome, and The Holy Land wood is
carve.
WOODS. expensive
39
and we have paid as high as three dollars per square
;
foot for selected pieces only one-eighth of an inch thick.
by any means
Last, but not
must be mentioned the
least,
Spanish cedar, popularly known as cigar-box wood, which
one of the factories
best, as well
we can
as the cheapest
where the boxes are made,
is
it
get.
is
At the
possible to procure
very fine pieces, sometimes with beautiful mottles and curls like the fancy maples, the effect of which
with shellac, its
not surpassed by any
is
appearance
is
usual rough state
in its
trouble.
is
and coated
common wood.
Indeed,
;
and
it
who
it
is
are only familiar with
thoroughly well repays the
very pleasant and easy to work, and has an odor
It is
which to us
polished,
so changed by sandpaper and polish, that
rarely recognized by those persons it
when
very agreeable.
It costs, in the
usual thickness
for cigar-boxes, about ten cents per foot.
When
a factory
empty boxes
is
not accessible, one can buy, for a few cents,
at the cigar-stores
get rid of them
;
where they are usually glad
boxes to be used a second time for the packing of cigars. sert the
blade of a
carefully pry
it
stiff
apart without breaking the
to thoroughly soak
edges are bound.
off
If the
other, they
do not dry
;
and throw
all
the paper strips with which the
pieces are laid rapidly,
wood
and
them remain an hour or
The wood should be
on edge.
In-
table-knife in the joints of the box,
the pieces into a tub of water, and let
more
to
our modern revenue laws not permitting the
fiat,
and are
dried by standing
it
up
or piled on top of each liable to warp.
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
40
These directions may seem But
simple a thing.
it is
diffuse for the
a vexatious job to attempt to scrape
the paper off while dry, and
it is
worse to leave
work, and then mar the good effect of it
sawing
after
;
it
it
on a piece of
by attempting to remove
the paste used to fasten the paper strips on
cigar-boxes being as tenacious as a dog's
Pine
performance of so
bad name.
sometimes used, and afterwards stained
is
wood
in imitation
it
seems hardly worth the trouble when the
others can be gotten.
Clear pine looks much better shellacked
of hard
;
but
or varnished, the stain not taking well unless so dark as to
obscure the figure of the wood.
All the above-mentioned woods,
and many more beautiful
kinds, can be had in veneers of about a sixteenth or twelfth of an
inch in thickness, at a trifling price are produced
monograms, or or ebony
;
by the contrasts
and very handsome selected
pijeces.
of the
effects
Initials,
on walnut, rosewood,
or ebony on satin-wood or curled ash,
— make
very
Veneers of white holly or ash can be
gotten dyed in various high colors
some
;
silhouettes, in white holly
beautiful ornaments.
in
of
;
and those who have travelled
Pullman day-cars may have noticed the
effect
of those dyed woods used as inlays around the door-casings, &c.
Most ples,
of these colors are nehrly or quite permanent.
however, are not, and possibly the blues.
It
The
pur-
would be
WOODS.
41
well to assure one's self of the fact of their stability before using
them on a piece
of
work
of
any great extent.
two or more pieces of veneer of different kinds or colors
If
are laid on top of each other, particularly
when
and sawed out
the treadle-machine
is
same
at the
time,
used, the saw of which
cuts exactly at right angles to the surface of the wood,
pieces or figures which are cut out of one will just other,
and can thus be transposed, and the
into the dark, or vice versa ;
same pattern can be done
more
to
difficult
experience to effect,
however,
is
and
if
it
is
may be expected. The common kinds ;
The
worth while trying even
a simple design fair
of veneers cost but a
is
amount
chosen
at
of success
few cents per square
those dyed in high colors are about twenty-five or thirty
cents for the
All
this is
considerable
with some accuracy.
and the work carefully executed, a
first,
foot
fit
so good, that ;
ones inlaid
light
With the hand-saws,
at once.
the pieces
without a treadle-machine
the
into the
and thus several examples of the
accomplish, and will require
make
fit
same
quantity.
woods should be well seasoned,
or, after
spending a good
deal of time and trouble in working them, they will be sure to
become defaced with cracks
or warps, a particularly unpleasant
when one has made a pretty piece of work The only sure way to present this unfortunate
occurrence
for a
present.
result
is,
to get a quantity of
wood, and keep
it
in the
house as long as
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
42
possible before using if
the house
is
;
two or three years
heated by a furnace
is
much and, much the better,
not too
in winter, so
;
the dry air from a register being a great seasoner.
small pieces of
It is said that
by boiling
in
wood may be
taking the sap out of the wood, and making
The wood
;
the boiling
dry and hard.
it
shrinks considerably under this treatment, for which
We
due allowance must be made. one instance only, on white
and discolored, in
rapidly seasoned
clean fresh water for four or five hours
in
an iron pot.
holly,
have tried
this
process in
which was somewhat stained
consequence, perhaps, of having been boiled
We
would recommend a vessel
of tin for light-
colored woods.
Thin woods particularly are
by holding them
in front of
the heat, as close as
on a board over
it
floor,
is
or lay a
a
fire,
often
damp
them
cloth on
it,
;
or,
damp
a place
and place the wood
concave side down, and put a moderate weight on top of
wood has regained it
is
it
the convex side exposed to
safe to place
In either case the work must be watched
it.
if
it
and
liable to warp,
This may sometimes be effected
necessary to straighten them.
its
desired condition,
has been damped,
too long,
it
will of
it
it
;
and,
when
the
must be removed, and,
must be put on edge to
course go the other way.
dry.
If left
END FOR BOOK
SLIDE,
VII. ^ilinjg
(Slue, IS^antbl^,
GLUE-POT appliances
;
is
unb
ipoltsljiitg.
a necessary accompaniment to our other
and
such a variety of them kept for
tliere is
sale at the stores that
is
it
The
easy to provide one.
essential parts are a cup for the glue, and another one larger for water
both
set
The
ing.
the glue-cup being placed in the water-vessel, and
;
on the glue
and heated
in
be set over the
This
stove.
may be put
is
in a china, or glass cup, or tumbler,
any convenient fire,
and
is
very necessary to prevent burn-
to
article of tin or iron
be applied hot.
In choosing glue, select the lightest colored.
more than the dark, but it
in small bits,
and place
it
put
it
is
When
thick
it
clogs the work
;
little
and
little
Break
with cold water,
— rather
practice will get if
it
a
If the articles
it
If too
does not
admit of
well to heat the pieces before applying the glue, 43
it
difficult
right.
too thin and watery
possess proper adhesive qualities. it is
it
a
in the right condition for use,
should be about as thick as thin molasses, point to describe, but a
It costs
probably purer and stronger.
into the cup, just cover
to heat.
which can
it,
and use
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
44
no more than
necessary to give a thin coating.
is
Press the
pieces firmly together, and hold them tight for a few
moments
with the fingers, or bind them with a string, or use the clamps
The
described elsewhere.
clamps may be
latter is the best
method
In glueing veneers, fastening small panels, and the the hot glue,
;
and the
left on, if possible, all night.
the panel in place, and rub
fix
it
like,
down
apply
with any
smooth hard implement, forcing the surplus glue out under the Continue
edges.
sufficiently to
this
rubbing
the glue has set, or hardened
till
keep the veneer closely down.
All the surplus
glue which runs over the edges, must be removed either by scrap-
ing away after
it
water while
is
it
hardens, or with a cloth moistened with
surface of the wood,
Glued
This
yet soft.
and
is
apt to draw apart
;
and
it is
warm
method roughs up
the
not always admissible.
when exposed
articles,
latter
to
well,
changes of temperature, are
when
the nature of the
work
permits, after glueing on the ornaments, to drill a hole through
them from the back, but not so deep as and put
Work
in a small
to
show on the
so fastened will stand almost any thing.
wood must be
Any good
exterior,
peg of hard wood well covered with
glue.
Of course, the
thicker than veneer for this treatment.
may be used but the most convenient will made of shellac dissolved in alcoreadily made at home, of any desired quantity
varnish
;
probably be found to be that hol.
This
and color
;
is
and
for this purpose procure a small
wide-mouthed
GLUE, VARNISH, OILING bottle (two-ounce
alcohol,
large
is
gum
thirds full of
and cork
enough
it
warm
twenty-four hours or so, and
more alcohol
on several one.
if
and get the
on several
after putting
coats,
fill it
two-
you are
if
in
It will dissolve in
place.
It is better to
necessary.
use
the addition thin,
it
and put
one thick
effect with
job, like a box-cover, or a panel,
you are doing a nice
If
and
may then be thinned by
coats, than to try
45
Cover with strong
in bits.
up, shaking occasionally, and,
a hurry, placing the bottle in a
of
POLISHING.
for small work),
broken
shellac
AND
you can rub
down
it
with a piece
of very fine sand or emery paper, and finish with one more thin coat. flat
This takes out
all
the brush-marks,
and leaves a perfectly
and even polished surface.
The
alcohol used to dissolve shellac must be strong and pure,
what druggists watered,
Use
will
it
a small,
pouring on Shellac
it
call alcohol of
95 per cent.
If
it
thinned or
is
not dissolve the gum. flat
brush
;
and,
when
through, wash the brush by
a few drops of alcohol, and wiping dry.
may
also be applied with a
pad of cotton done up
in
a soft linen rag, and laid on with a quick circular movement,
and the rag kept moistened wrth alcohol applied very drop by drop.
gum, and
If too
to get so dry as to
alone will
much
spoils the effect
make a
;
alcohol
is
used,
it
carefully,
re-dissolves the
and yet the gum must not be allowed
be streaky.
Experience and good judgment
success of this method
;
but for a
flat
panel
nothing short of real French polishing will produce so good an effect.
On
irregular surfaces, the brush
must be used of neces-
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
46
Shellac dries so rapidly that the difficulty in this process
sity. is
do
to
it
the dark, which
dark woods
and
is
of a
is
mahogany
color,
and the bleached, which
;
on
excellent
Many
There are two kinds of
quickly enough.
light
is
and
is
shellac,
suitable for
of a light
creamy
tint,
woods and dyed veneers. and
;
for this purpose nothing
is
better
than raw linseed-oil applied with a soft rag, and well rubbed this
all
pieces of work look better with a dead oiled surface
than with a polished one
and
—
repeated as often as
Polishing attainable
wood
is
a high
is
necessary to get a good
art, in
which great success
by the most cunning and crafty workmen
;
in,
finish.
is
only
but this
should not discourage the careful and ambitious amateur from
making the attempt,
in special cases
able, with a confident prospect of
when a high
finish is desir-
measurable success.
Prepare the wood for polishing 'by using the finest sand or glass paper,
and rubbing
it till
all tool
marks and scratches are
absolutely obliterated.
French polish light
To
and dark, apply
it,
is
for
purchased at drug or art stores, of two kinds,
woods
of those respective shades.
make a pad
of a small tuft of cotton-wool folded
in a soft old linen rag, the folds of the rag at the
for a handle.
from
Cotton cloth
will
do
also,
back serving
but the linen
is
freer
lint.
Moisten the bunch of cotton with the polish, and place the folds of the rag, squeezing
it
it
in
slightly to force the polish to
AND POLISHING.
GLUE, VARNISH, OILING
47
soak through, and apply to the outside of the rag a drop or two of
raw
Sweet-oil
linseed-oil.
and gives a more durable
harder,
pad by dipping
to the
may be
in
used, but linseed dries
putting on only the drop which adheres to
be used
it,
easily over the surface of
the wood, and as
much
too
the object of the oil being merely to
;
applied
If the oil is
surface.
and
the bottle a small broom-straw,
make
little
the
will not
pad
slip
should be used
as will barely accomplish this result.
With the pad thus charged, rub motion
till
all
is
it
it
on the wood with a
covered, charging the cotton occasionally
with the polish, and the rag with the
The
first
may be
as
it
to dry
;
oil.
wood, and produce but
coat will sink into the
Allow
effect.
and
in
little
and repeat the operation as many times
necessary to produce a surface which
light like a mirror,
circular
which you can see your
wi'll
reflect
face.
or three applications will ordinarily produce this result
;
Two
an open
porous wood, requiring more than a hard fine-grained one. If
too
greasy white streaks show themselves,
much
oil is
it
is
evidence that
used, and they must be gently rubbed out with-
out oiling the pad.
This process
and the sawing
like
;
may be
is
of course only suitable for flat surfaces, panels,
though wood which partially prepared
is
to
be used for plain
by receiving one or two coats
before sawing, and a finishing one afterwards, ficult
fret-
otherwise to polish sawed work.
it
being very
dif-
VIII. Copnnt0 anb
g^ ELECT
one of the designs given here of drawing
<^^ knowledge
'^
copied
Cruitsferrhtcj patterns.
off
is
;
and,
if
some
possessed, the pattern
little
may be
on a separate piece of paper, and enlarged
to
any desired dimensions.
A common designs
is
method
given in
of enlarging
fig. 14,
which
/\
is
a leaf of the horse-chestnut, of which it
is
desired to
make a copy
the
the size of
over the pattern any straight apart,
lines
at
number
^
\
/
^ 71
^\A^ kk^% ^
\
of
equal distances
and intersect them
\
twice,
Draw
original.
/
-^
\
at right
'^
%
I y
angles by other lines at similar distances.
A convenient
would be one inch.
distance apart for the lines
inch, or
some even part of an
Draw on another
squares as
many times
.
desired to enlarge 48
piece
larger or smaller, as 1
,
/f
paper the
of
/.
or reduce the figure;
it is ,
and
^"•- 4' Transfkrring Patterns.
PLATE
VI.
PICTURE FRAME.
COPYING AND TRANSFERRING PATTERNS.
49
copy by hand the pattern, putting those parts which any particular square
of
the
By
square of the second figure.
may be made
of designs
and a very
slight
in
fall
corresponding
the
in
original
simple method any sort
this
available to suit our particular needs,
knowledge
of
drawing
will
be
that
all
is
necessary.
A
and a
pair of dividers, or compasses,
found very useful for many
purposes in doing nice work, besides
copying or transferring patterns.
their help in
Having gotten the pattern process
is
same way marks.
to transfer if
Or
the
it
wood
to the
may be
enough
is
design marked over with a hard, will
the pattern
laid
and the
a
may
lines of the
sharp point of any kind
leave an impression from
may be
it,
make
transfer-paper
called
be laid on the wood, the pattern over
which
in the
to take pencil-
carefully cut out with the sharp
Or what
on the wood.
the next
This may be done
wood.
light colored
is
the pattern
satisfactorily arranged,
point of a knife, and used as a stencil, from which to tracing
be
parallel ruler, will
Or
transfer-paper.
the
down, and the
lines pricked
through
with a pin-point, and the pin-marks afterwards joined by pencil-
marks.
These methods
all
preserve the pattern for future use
as printed patterns cost but a
trifle,
and
it
may
while always to take this trouble, the pattern
gummed on
to the
wood,
or, better still,
and the whole thing sawed out S
;
but
not be worth itself
may be
fastened with tacks,
together.
What
are
known
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
•50
as drawing-tacks are
the
common
kind
most convenient for
will
answer nearly as
this purpose,
well.
When
though
tacks are
used, they should be, as "far as possible, driven into the waste
wood, so that the holes work.
left
by them may not mar the finished
IX.
j^ EFORE jF^
commencing on
beginner to
real work,
it
would be well for the
make a few experiments on
material, to get
somewhat
pieces of suitable
familiar with the motion of the
saw, and the handling of the other tools.
Take
the saw-frame,
and
outward and downward.
fix in
Clamp
a saw-blade, putting the teeth the lower end of the
saw
first.
Put the upper end of the saw-frame against some fixed object,
and spring
slightly while the other
it
secured by the other clamp.
This
end of the blade
will
blade so that when picked by the finger guitar-string
ness of
;
itself.
and
is
being
is
bring a strain on the it
will
twang
like
necessary, because the blade has no
The clamps need
a
stiff-
to be tightly secured, or the
saw-blade will occasionally slip out.
The wood
is
laid
on the table or saw-horse, the part
worked on projecting far enough over the edge to
have free movement.
Commence on
follow the lines around, working the quick, energetic motion of the right
to be
to allow the
the outer edge,
saw and
saw up and down with a
hand
;
turning the work, and 51
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
52
feeding
After finishing the outline
to the saw, with the left.
it
(or before, as
may be
convenient),
holes through
drill
Unclamp
spaces within, which are to be cut out.
end of the saw-blade, put
clamp
it
the pattern
damp
Saw
fast. is
it
the
through one of the holes, and again
out this part, and so on successively
till
gummed
on,
complete.
If the pattern
the waste paper slightly, scrape
of sand-paper,
all
the upper
and rub
has been
it off,
or lay
it
on a sheet
it off.
Unless great care has been taken, and the lines of the pattern
most accurately followed,
it
will
be found that there are
little
ugly irregularities in the sawing, which seriously interfere with its
symmetrical appearance.
with the
little
files
;
quite agree with the to
be used
The
till
and,
These are
when one
to
be carefully removed
side of the
same parts on the other
wood does not
side, the files are
a satisfactory regularity and evenness
curves are
all
is
obtained.
be made regular and even, the points
to
sharp and true, and the angles clean and open.
This careful
after-finish
The work often sold in which it came from the
should be regarded as very important.
the shops
is left
just in the condition in
saw, with the edges rough and irregular,
and made worse by the swelling action of the moist varnish upon the exposed wood which
is
fibres.
If
to excel all this poor stuff,
we want
we can
our desire by the careful finish recommended
to
produce work
easily accomplish ;
and
this is really
the best evidence of skilled labor.
There are many
little
convenient methods of work which are
HOW. TO USE THE SAW. only learned by experience, and each one
way
easiest,
even
if
not the simplest
;
55
own
apt to iind his
is
but some
little
points will
be suggested which may save the tyro time and trouble. In sawing into an angle of any acuteness,
will
it
be found that
the saw cannot be readily turned without destroying the sharp-
ness of the angle.
In such a case, having cut up one side into
the angle, back the
saw out a
wood Or
it
to the other line,
it
around, and put
from the angle outwards. to
up
that
till it
draw the saw
sometimes answers to
angle, turn
way, and cut across the waste
little
and follow
in
it
it till
first.
backwards, and then cut
Occasionally
saw past the angle, and leave
meets the
entirely out of the
it
there
is
more convenient
is
no wood outside
to prevent the free action of the saw.
In turning a square corner, or an angle of 90°, saw up to the point,
and then run the saw up and down a few times without
moving the wood,
till
a
little
space
cut
is
saw-blade can be turned ready to follow
away
down
the
in
which the
new
line.
A
similar process will carry the saw around a projecting point,
taking care in both cases that the space cut away be on the side
wood.
of the line within the waste
mended
to follow the line with the
as possible, as
it is
less tedious to
time afterwards finishing with the
In
all
cases
it
is
recom-
saw with as great accuracy do so than
to
expend the
file.
In using the smaller patterns of hand-saws in cutting out the inside portions of the work,
back of the saw-frame
it
will frequently
interferes,
and
it
be found that the
may be
necessary to put
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
54 the
saw
frame with the teeth inward, and then saw
into the
towards you from teeth sideways
out
and you
;
tool than
or the saw
;
will find that,
way, you can do
in this
same
in,
much
to the
saw
changing the saw around
larger pieces of
slowly,
saw as nearly perpendicular as
work with the
and be
careful to hold the
possible.
smaller saw-frames are best worked as one naturally uses
any saw, with the hand above the work
and
in with the
would otherwise be possible.
Feed the wood
The
may be put
3, are
the longer ones,
operated by the hand below, the frames,
enough resting on the arm.
mended
;
to
it
when long is
recom-
have the work on a higher level than with the other
saws, either
adjustment
In this latter case
figs. 2
by using a high table or a low will,
of course,
depend upon each
seat.
The exact
individual's needs,
but the work should be so arranged that stooping over not be necessary.
it
will
X.
Pob FTER
^1
ta
mt
the sawing
lljc
finished, the
is
carving-tools
the gouges the leaves
an appearance of
till
leaves
may be
may be
left in relief,
or the
flat
relief is attained.
and the adjoining wood
or firmer chisels.
veins of the
of large leaves,
slightly cut
away
Stems, or other parts of the
design which cross or intersect each other, to pass
The
more prominent one, the midrib
;
with the
With
and scroll-work may be hollowed
put in with a few strokes of the parting or vein-
ing tool
seem
may be
brought into requisition for further embellishment.
I out
Carbmg-Coolisi.
may be made
to
behind one another by appropriately cutting away
and thus depressing the adjacent wood
;
and
fruit
and berries
may be given their rounded forms. The scroll-work carvings on the many articles of household furniture which are so abundant
will give hints of
how
these effects are gained
moments' careful observation
add very much
The work
to
to the value of
;
and a few
in a picture or furniture store will
any written instructions.
be carved should be securely fixed by one of the
methods previously noted, and the carving-tools used with both 55
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
56
hands, the pahn of the right one on the head of the
tool,
and
the side of the left
hand resting on the work, the thumb and
lingers turned up,
and supporting the blade, and acting as a
guide to direct the push of the cutting
away a
grasped by the with the right.
In using a mallet for
large quantity of surplus wood, the tool left
hand, and light blows struck upon
The
firmly
is
its
head
mallet should be of wood, so as not to
or. roughen the
spread
right.
head of the
tool,
which would make
it
unpleasant afterwards to use by hand.
In
all
carving, the
work should be done slowly and with
If a part is accidentally cut in relief, is
it is
impossible to repair the
damage
possible, the direction of the cut should be
than towards, the elevated parts
wood makes little
:
hence,
away
and
finish
left
when
it
froVn, rather
but when the grain of the
;
the reverse necessary, cut carefully,
short of the line,
care.
away which should have been
up afterwards with
and stop a still
greater
care.
As is
a general rule cut with the grain of the
found that the grain dips a
than
is
made
desired, the
little,
and
is
wood
;
though
if it
taking the tool deeper
work must be turned around, and the cut
in the opposite direction.
Sometimes the work can be
advantageously cut across the grain
;
but the tools do not leave
the work in quite as good condition as in the former case, and
a
little
more
finish is required afterwards.
After the carving the
is
finished,
work may be smoothed with
and not before, the surface of fine sand-paper, assisted
by the
;
HOW TO USE THE riffler
or bent
files
:
in the depressions.
and not use sand-paper
hint in mind, finished
CARVrNG-TOOLS.
till
It
is
57
well to bear this
the carving
is
entirely
otherwise the fine grains of sand are apt to injure the
edges of the It is also
tools.
important that the sand-paper should be so applied
that the edges of the
work are
sharp,
left
and not rounded
a result which more than any thing else destroys the
off
artistic
effect of the work.
In using sand-paper on fret-work, and sometimes on the higher surfaces of carved work, or for bringing an uneven surface to a perfectly flat one, the best
paper on a tacks,
flat
way
is
board, fastening the edges
and then rub the work on
direction
of,
it,
down with
and always
glue or
with, or in the
the grain of the wood.
Finally, the
mentioned.
whole sheet of the
to lay a
work may be treated with
oil
or varnish, as before
XL gtscrrplmn;
XN
|piatts.
jof
a work of this character, intended for beginners,
it
has
been thought well
to give a brief description of the plates,
and some hints as
to the
manner
the general remarks previously
made
of
working them
will, it is
;
though
hoped, be nearly
sufficient.
Of course these designs are given more as examples to be accurately followed: working models, and
patterns
:
look very
will
they do here on paper.
they are very
If the smallest sized
This
last
much
remark
better in is
much handsomer when handsaw
not work to advantage on
is
;
wood than
true of all paper
cut out.
the implement^ used,
wood much
for the largest design here given
hints than as
they are practical
still
it
will
larger than that required
but with the larger styles of
saws, or with a machine, these patterns
may be
enlarged to any
desired size. Plate
I,
of carving-tools,
is sufficiently
described in the article
on Tools and Accessories for Carving. Plate No. 2
The
other half 58
is is
one-half of a bracket intended for a comer.
a repetition of this, except that the straight
PLATE
VII.
WALL POCKET.
DESCRIPTION OF PLATES. side
on the
left is to
the thickness of the
59
be made as much wider than
wood
of
which
lap of the two parts in putting together. to the crossbar
between them, fastened
this one, as
made, to allow
it is
A
for the
shelf goes
little
and the whole may be
;
put together with small nails like those used in cigar-boxes, or with screws, which
is
better, as
it
allows the bracket to be
taken apart when necessary.
Take a the
step
the freer
through
cutting
Of course
pattern.
but,
;
all
it
away is
and by some
wood saw
of the
the spaces, and cut
Plate No. 3
wood
gotten rid
is
them
The
will allow
it
Drill holes
out successively.
all
oil.
front piece, which supports the shelf,
saw both pieces may be sawed out
irregular outline,
of,
in cutting the rest.
to be exactly one-half of this back piece.
enough
wood.
the back piece of an ordinary wall-bracket,
currants and leaves.
just large
to the
outside of the
and sand-paper, and shellac or
files is
the waste
all
of
not essential that this should "be the
the waste
if
movement
Finish with
is
of the necessary size,
methods before described, transfer the design
Commence by first
wood
piece of
at once.
to cover the supports
something
like
;
and
With a machine-
The it
shelf
is
made
should have an
what carpenters
call
an ogee.
The whole work may be left flat like ordinary fret-work, or the veins of the leaves may be carved into relief by cutting away the adjacent wood, or, in a small object like this, they may be done pretty well with knife and
files.
or less rounded, and the berries also.
The stems may be more '
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
6o
work
If the
Plate No. 4
The
is left flat,
a table easel,
is
may be sawed. and hardly needs much comment.
the veins
upon which a book or picture
piece
is
or screwed to the bar on the lower half
A
be glued
to rest is to
or two brass nails are
;
wood
to
be inserted for the same purpose.
to
be glued near the top on the back, to which the leg which
supports the easel on the table
The as
pattern
shown
is
to
out,
and the carving done
appearance of ribbons passing in and out
very easily done
is
;
and, as the drawing shows, adds
Use a
very greatly to the attractiveness of the finished work. chisel,
is
to be fastened with a hinge.
be entirely sawed
to give the
This carving
is
small piece of
and make the
first
flat
cut nearly perpendicular, and from a
sixteenth to an eighth of an inch in depth,.according to the thick-
ness of the wood, and size of the work.
The second
be from the outside
so that the ribbon will
look as
if
it
in
towards the
were bent under the
first, first.
Be
cut should
careful, in cutting
with the grain of the wood, not to go too deep and split
through
;
but,
if
such an accident occurs, take a
end of a knife-blade, and push and hold
it
tight
Plate No. 5
is
till it
an easel
;
clear
into the cleft from the back,
sets.
By lengthening
and putting a support and the
for a vase.
it
glue on the
one end of a table book-rack, or book-slide as
they are sometimes called. little legs,
it
little
to the back,
circular part alone
the lower part into it
would also do
for
would make a table-mat
Leaving out the centre-piece, and perhaps the
inner row of lacing,
small round picture.
it
might make a frame for a medallion, or
6l
DESCRIPTION OF PLATES.
For a book-rack to
make
may be sawed out in walnut thick enough it may be done in thin holly or
it
a substantial article, or
other wood, and glued on to a thicker piece
,_--
i
In the latter case, both sides
of dark wood.
may be sawed
at once.
These ends are
U
to
!?
be fastened with hinges to a strip of wood ^
and rather
>
more than twice as long as their united length,
> X | z
of
same width
the
when they
so that lie
(see
fig.
15),
down
are shut
they will
The hinges and screws should be
flat.
^ •1
countersunk, so that the bindings of books will
Any initial
not be injured.
be put in the centre,
work
give
The bands
«
of the
are all to be carved to in
11
-t=ii-
and
f
,
before explained.
Plate No. 6 in
ified
h 5*
them the appearance of passing
out, as '
^
monogram may
and the shield may be of
a different colored wood. lace or basket
or
is
a design for a picture-frame, which
many ways by simply changing
maybe mod-
the arrangement of the
border and panels.
The foundation
is
of walnut or other dark wood, the orna-
mental edging and carvings are of white
holly,
and the panels
under the carvings may be of any contrasting veneer.
Saw
out
first
the walnut of one piece.
The edges
outside of
the line of ornaments would be better bevelled off as indicated.
The
holly edge,
also
;
but
it is
if
the frame
safer, perhaps,
is
small,
may be
and rather
of a single piece
less trouble, to
make
it
FRET-SAWING AND WOOD-CARVING.
62
of pieces, say four parts, top, bottom,
them where the sawing and
lines cross,
ends close and
fitting the
the walnut, and scrape off
and two sides
true, glue
surplus glue.
all
chisel or knife-blade, carve the lines so as to in
and
out, as in the other
Veneer
joining
it
After
in place
Then
upon
with a
flat
make them pass
examples.
for the panels should contrast well in color with both
the walnut
and
Something
holly.
of a tint
satin-wood, cedar, curled maple, or
would look well size to
;
and make a natural break.
and each piece
;
the space,
fill
White holly
and glued
the best
is
some is
between the two,
of the stained holly,
to be cut out exactly the
in.
wood
for the
little
carvings.
The
upper ones are meant for pansics, and the others for the daisy, or whiteweed. will see
next
;
at
and
If
you
look at the flowers themselves, you
will
once how the petals
ar,e laid,
one over or against the
only necessary to imitate the arrangement to the
it is
best of your ability to get as natural and truthful an effect as
The
possible.
leaves are very slightly carv'ed with a small
gouge, leaving the midrib prominent, and sloping the veining
down and away from If
these
little
it.
ornaments do not
stick well, as
is
the case
sometimes with amateurs' glueing, see directions before given for fastening
A
recess
picture.
them with pegs from the back.
or so square,
the back
at
This
is
all
is
necessary to hold the glass and
made by glueing on around
far
strips a quarter of
an inch
enough from the inner edge of the
walnut piece to hold the glass securely.
DESCRIPTION OF PLATES.
A
mat
of gilt paper will greatly improve
Plate No. 7
is
a wall-pocket which
for newspapers, or small
The back
is
of
enough
its
63 appearance.
may be made large enough
for letters
and
cards.
The wild convolvulus
one piece.
leaves and
vine border, are to be carved to give the relief shown.
The
inside the vine-stem indicates the size and
line next
shape of the pocket-flap.
and some
contrasting
wood
This
is
have a panel cut
to
substituted.
A
piece of thin pine, larger than the orifice, will answer
may,
be glued to the
in turn,
may be
figures given,
on the panel
and,
;
if
flap.
A
large
out,
veneer glued to a ;
and
this
monogram, or the
cut out of veneer or thin wood, and glued the selection of
woods has been judiciously
made, the effect will be very satisfactory.
The
flap
should be attached to the back by morocco or other
thin leather, either glued, or fastened with bright-headed nails. If the flap is
thickness, both
are bevelled
made
thin stuff this
wood
a quarter of an inch or more in
inner and outer edges will look better
if
they
and a moulding made with a small gouge.
On
its
off,
of
would not be necessary.
ADVERTISEMENTS.
It
believed that these
is
advertisements will
be of great
Probably one or other of these houses can furnish
value.
every article required by the amateur or artisan, not only for fret-sawing, but for if
not
all
any other mechanical pursuit; and most,
of them, publish
usually send
free to
which they
illustrated catalogues,
any address, from which selections can
be made nearly as well as by personal inspection. All at
small
much
tools, saws, pattefns, &c.,
can be sent by mail
lower rates than by express, and nearly as safely;
and money can be forwarded by postal order, or 'letters,
with entire security.
in registered
N.
H.
BALDWIN, MANUFACTURER OF
Small Gear Cutters, HAND PLANERS FOR METALS,
SMALL FOOT LATHES AND BENCH LATHES, Small Foot and Power Engine Lathes, Slide Rests and Lathe Small Foot-Power a?td Power Scroll Saws, Small Foot-Power and Power Circular Saws (with self-oiling arbors). Fittings,
All the above
articles are of the very best class,
Illustrated Catalogues free.
and are highly recommended
Address,
LACONIA,
N. H.
30 3
