Marcone 2014 Msa Training Ge Mission 1 Top Load Washer

Transcript

Marcone 2014 MSA Training GE Mission 1 Top Load Washer 1 GE Mission 1 Top Load Laundry • Mission One High Efficiency Top Load Washer/Dryer • Launched industry-first features like integrated SmartDispense system and Steam option. • Received Excellence in Design Award from Appliance Design Magazine and Editors’ Choice Award from Reviewed.com. • Top rankings from a leading consumer magazine, including one “Best Buy” and 3 “Recommended” SKU’s. • It’s also important to note that a leading consumer magazine rates GE as the number one conventional top load washer in the industry. Newly Designed GE Top Load Washers MODELS GTWS8650DWS/8655DMC GTWN8450DWS/8455DMC GHWN8350DWS/8355DMC GTWN8250DWS/8255DMC GTWN8150DWS/8155DMC GTWN7450DWW IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE The information in this presentation is intended for use by individuals possessing adequate backgrounds of electrical, electronic, & mechanical experience. Any attempt to repair a major appliance may result in personal injury & property damage. The manufacturer or seller cannot be responsible for the interpretation of this information, nor can it assume any liability in connection with its use. WARNING To avoid personal injury, disconnect power before servicing this product. If electrical power is required for diagnosis or test purposes, disconnect the power immediately after performing the necessary checks. RECONNECT ALL GROUNDING DEVICES If grounding wires, screws, straps, clips, nuts, or washers used to complete a path to ground are removed for service, they must be returned to their original position & properly fastened. 4 2012 Clothes Care Nomenclature Washer G T W Brand Product P=Profile G=GE H=Hotpoint M=Moffat W=Washer D=DryPer U=Unitized A=Canadian Config T=Top Load F=Front Load TL Derivatives C=Contract H=Home Depot L= Lowes M=Miscellaneous S 8 Key Feature 6 Series S=Steam H=Heater N=Stainless Tub P=PermaTuff TM Tub 5 0 D 0 W S Color Engineering Digit 0=White 5=Color TL eStar 0=non eStar 4= Cold Water Wash, non eStar 5=eStar Year Specific Color WW=White BB=Black CC=Bisque MV=Metallic Red MG=Metallic Gold MS=Metallic Block WS=Silver backguard WT=Titanium backguard HE Detergent Use & Care recommends the use of HE detergent only. Mini Manual Location The Mini Manual can be accessed by pushing down the tub and basket assembly with one hand. Then reach into the plastic bag located on the left inside rear of the outer wrapper. Front Warranty 8 Warranty What GE will not Cover 9 Distinguishing Characteristics Dispenser Configuration There are 3 different dispenser configurations for the three different washer basket sizes. 10 Dispenser Configuration Low End Bleach funnel • No water valve • No Delay • Drops into tub cover pocket when filled Bleach funnel 4.5 cu ft. Jet Softener • Yes Water valve • Yes Delay • Outlet connected to nozzle through hose Jet Softener Dispenser Configuration Mid Grade Jet Softener 4.8 cu ft. Siphon Bleach Large • Yes Water valve • Yes Delay • Dispense in tub cover Drop-in Detergent • Yes Water valve • No Delay • Drops into tub cover and then cup is washed Siphon Bleach Drop- in Detergent Overflow collector left Dispenser Configuration High End Detergent Bulk Dispenser Asm Softener Bulk Dispenser Asm Bulk Dispense Cap Cap Detergent Bottle Level Sensor Drop-in Detergent Softener Bottle 5.0 cu ft. Level Sensor Siphon Bleach Small Backsplash Assembly Removal and Accessing Boards 1. Open lid and remove the two hinge covers by pushing in on the side locking tab. 3. Push backsplash back while rotating top of backsplash away from you to disengage the rear cover from the two retention clips. 2. Close Lid and remove the two screws that secure the backsplash to the washer. 14 Backsplash Assembly Removal and Accessing Boards 4. Rotate backsplash towards you and lay on face. 5. Remove six screws from back cover and disconnect harness connectors as required. RJ45 Connector NOTE: Be careful of the harness routing when separating and reinstalling. 15 Lid Assembly Removal The Lid comes as a Complete Assembly To remove the lid assembly you must first remove the backsplash assembly. (See Backsplash Removal) Disconnect the wire connector and the pressure hose from the sensor. Unclip the pressure sensor from the backsplash bottom. Squeeze and push through Lid Assembly Removal Trim Cap BACKSPLASH BOTTOM To remove the Backsplash bottom, remove the 2- ¼ inch Hex screws, 1 on each side under the trim cap. Then slide the Backsplash Bottom toward the rear of the washer and out . Lid Assembly Removal Once the backsplash bottom is removed, open the lid and slide to the left. BACKSPLASH BOTTOM The right side hinge shaft will disengage from the hinge. Lift the right side of the lid to clear the hinge and slide lid to the right to disengage from the left hinge. Lid Assembly Re-Installing the Lid When re-installing the Lid onto the Top Cover, Make sure to center it between the hinges. Then re-install the backsplash bottom before attempting to close the Lid. Doing this will prevent damage to the enamel on the top cover. Centered Hinges Removal Remove backsplash assembly including backsplash bottom and lid assembly. Raise the top cover. Cut the wire tie that supports the hose onto the back tab of the hinge. NOTE: Bulk dispense models will have wire ties on both hinges. Remove the 4 screws and pull the hinge out from the bottom of the tub cover Wire tie Location Top Cover Removal Remove 2 Screws 1- Remove Backsplash and Pressure Sensor Assemblies as stated previously. 2. Remove two screws at the rear of the cover that secures the cover to rear rod support and ground screw connecting wire to top cover. Top Cover Removal 3. Use a putty knife to disengage the cover from the two clips (6 inches from corner) mounted to the front flange of the apron. Once the cover is disengaged from the apron, lift up the front of cover from front clips. Remove hose clamps to disconnect two bulk dispenser hoses where they connect to the fill funnel. 4. Remove cover. Remove These Bulk Dispense Hose Clamps Front Clips Basket and Tub Removal Basket and Tub Removal To remove the Basket and Tub assembly you will need to access the rear of the washer. If the washer is in a pan, use your assist devise to remove from the pan first. After the washer is removed from the pan, remove the 11 HEX screws holding the rear panel in place. Basket and Tub Removal The Backsplash, Lid and the Top cover need to be removed to access the suspension brackets in the front and rear. See those instructions The drain hose will also need to be removed from the tub. NOTE: Use a pan to catch excess water in the drain hose. Also be sure that the harness that goes to the sub assembly is moved to the sides of the apron so they are not damaged during Tub Removal. Remove the Impeller nut, impeller and the Hub Nut (REVERSE THREAD) first. Then remove the suspension brackets the hold the tub to the apron by removing the 16 ¼ inch HEX screws. Lift the rear suspension bracket up off the apron. Remove the Rod and Spring assembly from the tub and set on the floor. Basket and Tub Removal Remove the front rod supports and then roll the tub back and out of the washer apron and lay on its side. Remove the Tub Cover by lifting the 12 snap locks for the Tub X 12 Basket and Tub Removal Before you roll the complete tub assembly out, make sure to unclip the wire harness that goes across the bottom brace for the bulk dispenser sensor. Then slide basket out of the tub. If you are replacing the outer tub assembly you will need to flip the tub assembly all the way over to remove all of the components from the bottom of the tub. Components Overview Water Valves Three Different Water Valves Accommodates Three Different Dispenser Configurations. Water Valves Water hose Identifiers. BLUE – COLD, RED – HOT Low End model Water Valve 4.5 cu ft. Fabric Softener Cold Hot Water Valves Water hose Identifiers. BLUE – COLD, RED – HOT Mid Range model Water Valve 4.8 cu ft. Detergent Bleach Fabric Softener Cold Hot Water Valves Water hose Identifiers. BLUE – COLD, RED – HOT High end models 5.0 cu ft. Bulk Detergent Bulk Fabric Softener Detergent Bleach Cold Hot Water Valves Removing The Water Valve To replace the water valve remove the backsplash assemble. See Backsplash Removal Procedure. Remove the 2-- ¼ inch HEX screws that hold the fill funnel in place. Then remove the ¼ inch HEX screws that hold the water valve to the top cover. The number of screws vary depending on the water valve in the washer. 3 coils to 6 coils. Water Valves Removing The Water Valve Slide the water valve out toward the rear of the washer. The wires that you see go to the LED Tub light that is mounted to the fill funnel. Once you have the valve slid out, you will need to orient the clamps for removal. The lobe of the clamp needs to be up. Water Valves Removing The Water Valve To orient the clamp use you pliers to grasp the clamp and turn it until the lobe is up. NOTE: The tube the clamp is securing may turn with the clamp. This is ok. Although regular pliers will work, the Click Pliers work better. Water Valves Removing The Water Valve Once the clamp is oriented, using your pliers, grasp the lobe of the clamp and twist. The clamp will break off The tubes can then be removed from the valve. Water Valves Reinstalling The Water Valve There are 2 replacement clamps for all the hydraulics under the top cover. The larger of the 2 clamps are only used for the FILL FUNNEL TUBES The smaller of the 2 clamps is used for all other tubes Water Valves Closing Click Clamps with Click Pliers To close the Click Clamp make sure the thinner part of the Pliers jaws are under the lip of the clamp. Done Thin LIP HOOK Thick Then squeeze the plier jaws together until the Lip is past the Hook and clicks. Water Valves Opening Click Clamps with Click Pliers To open the Click Clamp flip the Click pliers over to where the Thick part of the jaw is on the lip side and the Thin side is over the Hump. Thick Done LIP HOOK HUMP Thin Then squeeze the plier jaws together until the Lip pops loose from the Hook. Water Valves Reinstalling The Water Valve Insert the 2 tubes from the fill funnel through the 2 large hose clamps. This will hold it in position as the clamps will not go through the hole until they are clamped closed Water Valves Reinstalling The Water Valve Then using the smaller clamps, insert the tubes through the clamps and attach the tubes to the water valve barbed stems. NOTE: Be sure to have all of the clamps oriented in the same direction. You will have difficulty getting them to go through the openings if you don’t. Water Valves Reinstalling The Water Valve After seating the tubes back onto the water valve, orient the click pliers where the thin edge is under the LIP of the clamp. That way it will slip under the HOOK of the clamp. H O O K L I P Water Valves Reinstalling The Water Valve Squeeze the clamp until it snaps together. Water Valves Reinstalling The Water Valve Clamp Installed Water Valves Reinstalling The Water Valve Reinstall water valve to the top cover Water Valves Reinstalling The Fill Funnel Supports. To reinstall the fill funnel slip the funnel supports under the lip of the tub cover opening. This will make it easier to line up the screw holes from the topside of the top cover. Water Valves Test Resistance of the Valve from the corresponding colored wire on the Invertor board at connector J702 to the J803 connector on the Invertor board. 120VAC power supply to the valve. Approx. 1 K ohm resistance on the coils. If you do not have any resistance, make sure that the common neutral wire connecter is connected.J702 J803 / / Common Neutral Connector Lid Lock Assembly The lid lock assembly includes the lid switch. This is activated by the magnets in the lid assembly. The lid lock/switch assembly is held in place by 2-- ¼ inch hex head screws that screw into the bezel. Bezel The wire from the lid lock assembly is routed on the under side of the top cover. It goes into a grommet through the cover to the control board. 48 Bulk Dispenser Tanks Removal Tank Can be Removed From the Bottom Front by: 1- Leaning the Washer Back using Prop Blocks or laying the washer on it’s side. 2- Pull Tank out from the Bottom by lifting tank up and off of the bottom apron lip. 3- Remove the hose clamp using same procedure as the water valve at the bottom of bulk tank. Bulk Tanks NOTE: Plug tank flange hole to prevent spillage Hose Clamp and Tank Flange Bottom View Consumer Fill Top Bulk Dispenser Tanks Re-installation With the washer still leaning back using prop blocks or laying the washer on it’s side, Slide the tank in at a 45 degree angle. Make sure to reconnect the hose back to the tank. Use the small Click Clamp Hose Clamp and Tank Flange Bulk Dispenser Tanks Re-installation Maneuver the top of the tank around the front support rod. Slide the tank up and in along side the front corner of the cabinet. Bulk Dispenser Tanks Re-installation When the top of the tank almost in place, make sure that it does not get hooked on the support bracket. You can feel when the top cap is in position. Once you feel that, you can fit the bottom of the tank into the bottom cabinet lip. Bulk Dispenser Tanks Re-installation You will feel a firm pressure when you push the tank up. Keep pushing the tank in until you get both tank posts into the lip of the cabinet. This pressure will hold the tank in position and also prevent tank rattle on the cabinet. Pressure Sensor Location and Removal The pressure sensor is located in the backsplash area. Remove backsplash assembly. Compress the locking tab holding the sensor in its housing. Disconnect the sensor wire connector and the pressure hose. Wire Connecter Pressure Hose 54 Pressure Sensor For models equipped with a pressure sensor, the pressure sensor status will be determined by reading the pressure sensor’s frequency. If the pressure sensor’s frequency is outside of the “Valid Values” then an error condition is set. The error condition will be logged in Service mode. If Pressure Sensor Error occurs during cycle, the cycle will be canceled and the control should go to Idle. If a cycle is started during a pressure sensor error, the Fill cycle will be cancelled. Pressure Sensor Testing Use a Hertz meter to read the Hertz at specified water levels. For testing at the pressure sensor, the pin out is as follows: 1 = Ground 2 = Signal 3 = 5V With that, you would want to test between pins 1, & 2, to measure the signal. Removing the Pressure Sensor 1. Remove control panel 2. Compress the locking tab holding sensor in its housing. 3. Disconnect the sensor connector and air pressure hose. Pressure Sensor Tub Water Level / Hz conversion Pressure Sensor Pressure Sensors For Bulk Tanks The Bulk Tank Pressure Sensors are located at the back of the unit. They are mounted to a plastic bracket that sits over the rear legs. Slots in the bracket holds it in place to the wrapper. To remove either lean the unit back or open the rear panel. Disconnect wire connector from the sensor. Lift up and off of the leg post. Disconnect hose from the sensor. Pressure Sensor Pressure Sensors For Bulk Tanks EMPTY 1/4 1/2 3/4 FULL FREQUENCY PRESSURE / FREQUENCY Diagram PRESSURE Bottom of Subwasher Component Locations Bulk Dispenser Pressure Sensor Location Recirculation pump 1-3/8” nut Hex screw Torque 65+/-20 in lbs. Rotor 11/16” nut Torque 500+/-30 in lbs. Heater Assembly 10mm nut Torque 18+/-10 in lbs. Drain Pump 1-3/8” Hex screw Torque 65+/-20 in lbs. Bulk Dispenser Pressure Sensor location Platform 12- 3/8” Hex bolt Torque 65+/-20 in lbs. Bulk Tanks Fabric Softener and Detergent Tub Thermistor 2- 5/16” Hex screws Torque 17+/-9 in lbs. Bottom of Subwasher Water Pumps All of the Mid and High End Units will Have Drain and Recirculation Pumps Drain Pump 120 VAC Approx. 16.5 ohm Recirculation Pump 120 VAC Approx. 30.5 ohm Bottom of Subwasher Water Pumps To Remove Either Pump  Disconnect Harness connecter  Remove hoses from the Pumps  Remove 1- 3/8” Hex Bolt  Lift up and Slide out from under the platform. To Reinstall Either Pump  Slide Pump bracket under the platform first  Reinstall the 3/8” Hex bolt. Torque 65+/-20 in lbs.  Reconnect Hoses and Harness connector to the pump Bottom of Subwasher Drive System Motor will spin up to 1000 rpm on high end models for more water extraction. Less time needed for drying allows for more energy savings. Motor will spin up to 900 rpm on the lower end models. Bottom of Subwasher Drive System Rotor Removal Remove the Rotor by turning the 11/16th nut counter clockwise. Pull the Rotor toward you. Be careful you don’t pinch your fingers as the magnets on the rotor are strong. When reinstalling the rotor, torque the nut to 500+/-30 in lbs. Bottom of Subwasher Stator To remove Stator Disconnect the Harness Remove 3-1/2” Hex Bolts Stator With Hall Sensor Attached Bottom of Subwasher RPS Switch Hall Sensor Inner Clip on Stator Hall Sensor is Easy to Remove Without Removing or Replacing the Complete Stator Assembly.  Remove the 11/16” Rotor Nut and Pull Rotor off to Access the Stator Assembly  Unclip Hall Sensor from Stator by Lifting up from the Outer Edge Releasing the outer clips.  Inner clip will follow.  Unplug Connector Located on the Center of the Hall Sensor NOTE – The outer clips could break when removing. Have one on your truck before servicing. Bottom of Subwasher Mode Shifter Mode Shifter cannot be Removed Without removing the Stator. (See Stator Removal )  Disconnect the Harness to the Mode Shifter and Disengage the wire hold down, aka-Christmas tree, from the Platform. ( See Side Photos)  Then Remove the 3- T20 Torques Screws  Pull Mode Shifter up and off the Platform Mode Shifter Torque Screws Bottom of Subwasher Mode Shifter Assembly Mode Shifter will come as a Complete Assembly When Replacing the Mode Shifter Assembly be sure to insert the spring properly. It needs to fit Into the groove. When installing the clutch, make sure if moves freely up and down while lining up the teeth. Make sure also to Install flat washer for the spring to be supported on platform. Torque for the Mode Shifter Screws is 17in lbs. Bottom of Subwasher Platform Assembly Removal First remove the impeller held down by a 7/16 bolt. Lift the impeller up. The coupler may come off with the impeller. If not, remove it also. Top center of the impeller with cap removed exposing the 7/16 bolt. Remove the 1 and 5/16 inch hub nut. The Torque when reinstalling the Hub Nut is 100 ft. lbs. Torque Limiter tool is use with impact gun to achieve the proper torque. Bottom of Subwasher Platform Assembly Removal Lay the washer on its rear panel. NOTE: Be careful of the lid as it will open as you lay it over. Remove all the components from the bottom of the tub assembly. Bottom of Subwasher Platform Assembly Removal Remove the 12- 3/8 Hex bolts. Pry the platform off of the tub assembly. Bottom of Subwasher Platform Assembly Installation When re-installing the platform insert the orientation post on the tub into the post hole on the platform. Bottom of Subwasher Platform Assembly Installation 1 4 3 2 Install the platform starting with the inner bolts first. They are numbered 1,2,3 and 4. Start with number 1 first. Start the bolts but do not tighten all the way in right away. Tighten each bolt ¼ of the way in at a time. This is done to pull the pressed on seal into the tub assembly evenly. Once the inner bolts are all pulled in, the outer bolts may then be installed. Tighten and torque to 65 inch lbs. Bottom of Subwasher Heater Assembly Heater Assembly is similar to what we see on Front Load Washers. It Has a Compressible Gasket that is compressed when the 10 mm nut is tightened. This creates a water tight seal. Torque spec. is 44 in lbs. Bottom of Subwasher NOTE: Make sure the Thermistor The Thermistor is Located in the Bottom of the Tub Assembly Next to the Drain Pump and is Removed by Removing the 2 - 5/16” Hex Screws. rubber O-RING is in place before reinstalling the new thermistor. Be sure to reconnect Yellow signal wire onto the thermistor and the Brown wire on the heater. This is needed to sense continuity through the water in the tub to allow the heater to come on. As water fills the tub the connection is made between the outer casing of the thermistor and the heater. This then is read at the inverter board. Schematic Common Diagram to all Models 76 Schematic Strip Circuits Not Common to all Models – Water Valves Neutral Supply 77 Schematic Strip Circuits Not Common to all Models – Water Valves Neutral Supply 78 Schematic Strip Circuits Not Common to all Models – Water Valves Neutral Supply 79 Schematic Strip Circuits Not Common to all Models – Bulk Tank Sensors 80 Schematic Strip Circuits Not Common to all Models – Continuity And Heater Circuits Continuity Circuit NOTE: Water is needed in the tub to complete the continuity circuit between the heater sheath and the thermistor. If water is not present in the tub, the heater will not come on. 81 Schematic Strip Circuits Not Common to all Models – Tub Light 82 Schematic Strip Circuits Not Common to all Models – Recirculation Pump 120 AC Supply Neutral Supply 83 UI Logic Board and RJ45 Board 84 IMC/Inverter Board J501 J407 J502 J603 J204 J1203 J1001 J702 J701 J803 J101 85 Diagnostics From The Board AC Voltage Into The Board – Not Powering up First Check the house outlet for the proper voltage. Check for 120 VAC to the J101 connecter BLACK to WHITE wires from the LINE FILTER. If no voltage there, Check line voltage coming into the line filter from the power cord connecter. If you have voltage there, replace the line filter. If no voltage, check the power cord connecter and harness for damage. Diagnostics From The Board Recirculation Pump Disconnect power to the washer. Access the control. Disconnect the J701 connecter. Check the resistance from the BROWN WIRE to the neutral WHITE WIRE at the J101 connecter. Should read approximately 30.5 OHM. If Resistance is good, check for 120vac at the same locations. 87 Diagnostics From The Board Drain Pump Disconnect power to the washer. Access the control. Disconnect the J701 connecter. Check the resistance from the YELLOW WIRE to the WHITE WIRE at the J101 connecter. Should read approximately 16.5 OHM. If Resistance is good, check for 120vac at the same locations. N E U T 88 Diagnostics From The Board Mode Shifter Motor Resistance Check the Mode Shifter Motor Resistance from J701 connecter ORANGE WIRE to the WHITE Neutral wire on the J101 connecter. Should read approximately 4K Ohm. If Resistance is good, check for 120vac at the same locations. 89 Diagnostics From The Board R-20 R-20 R-20 R-20 Mode Shifter Position Switch From the J501 connecter, check for continuity between the GREEN and GRAY wires. When the washer has stopped or is in the spin cycle, the Position switch will be in the normally open state. When the washer is in the agitate mode the switch will be closed. 90 Diagnostics From The Board Thermistor Resistance From the J501 connecter, check Thermistor resistance between the 2 AZURE wires. 91 Diagnostics From The Board Lid Lock Motor Check the resistance of the Lid Lock Motor from the J407 connecter BLACK to BROWN wires. Should read Approximately 39 ohms. 92 Diagnostics From The Board Lid Switch Check the Lid Switch continuity from the J407 connecter GREEN to WHITE wires. 93 Diagnostics From The Board Lid Lock Position Locked/Unlocked Check the Lid Lock Position continuity from the J407 connecter BLUE wire position 3 to WHITE wires when unlocked. When it is locked RED wire position 6 to WHITE. 94 Diagnostics From The Board Tub Light Check from the J204 connecter on the board. Look for approximately 3.8 VDC. If you see the voltage but no light, disconnect power from the washer. Disconnect the J204 connecter from the board. Set your meter to DIODE setting. With your BLACK LEAD on the RED wire, and your RED LEAD on the BLACK wire, you should read approximately 0.727 if good. If you reverse your meter leads, RED ON RED, you will not get a reading. 95 Diagnostics From The Board UI Logic Board Voltage Check from the J603 connecter on the board. Look for approximately 12 VDC from the Red wire pin 4 to the Yellow wire pin 1. And also there should be approximately 7.5 VDC from the Brown wire pin 3 to the Yellow wire pin 1. UI Board If either of these voltages are not present, replace the inverter board. If they are present and the UI board is not coming on, replace the UI board. 96 Diagnostics From The Board Drive Motor Checking from one of the 3 phase wires, RED, YELLOW or BLUE on connecter J1203 to any of the other wires on the same connecter, the resistance should be approximately 18 ohm 97 Diagnostics From The Board Testing the RPS/Hall Sensor The Hall Sensor can be check from the J1001 connector. With the power to the machine on, and the connector plugged in, you can see with your multimeter 0 – 12vdc signal from “P” to any one of the 3 HALL wires on the inverter board when you very slowly move the basket. CAUTION: there is a potential of -170vdc from earth ground to “P”. CAUTION: BE SURE TO USE YOUR ELECTRICALLY RATED GLOVES. 98 Diagnostics From The Board Heater and Continuity Circuit Checking from the J803 connecter, BLACK wire to the WHITE wire, the resistance should be approximately 12 ohm. Amp draw is approximately 10 amps The Brown wire that is on the heater sheath goes to the J501. This is the continuity circuit with the Yellow wire at the thermistor. If the continuity is not there between the 2, the heater will not come on. NOTE: To read continuity there needs to be water in the tub. 99 Service Mode How to enter the service mode and navigate. From an idle state, simultaneously press and hold the START and rotate the CYCLE SELECT KNOB 180 degrees (8 Clicks) and then release the start button to enter the service mode. Upon entering the service mode the control will be in the test selection mode and will be displaying test 1( )in the display. Rotating the knob clockwise will increase the test number. Rotating the knob counterclockwise will decrease the test number. Once the test number is selected, press the start button to enter that test. To exit that test, rotate the knob either CW or CCW. Pressing the power button will exit the machine from the service mode. Service Mode Tests Service Mode Tests Service Mode Tests Fault Codes 104 Fault Codes 105 Fault Codes 106 Frequently Asked Questions END OF PRESENTATION THANK YOU FOR YOUR ATTENTION ……. 108