Transcript
TAPERING JIG For use on table saws with the GRR-RIPPER ADVANCED MODEL GR-200
TJ-5000 Instruction Manual
v1.0
Read this manual before use and save for future reference.
Micro Jig, Inc. • PO Box 195607 • Winter Springs, FL 32719 • USA • MICROJIG.com MICRODIAL, GRR-RIPPER, COLORMATCH and MEMORYLOCK are trademarks of Micro Jig. A true Micro Jig innovation. © 2012
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-5 Safety Basics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-7 Getting Acquainted. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8-9 Factory Assembled Parts Diagrams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10-11 User Assembled Parts Diagrams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12-13 Using the Degree Scale and MICRODIAL (Option 1) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14-15 Using the Rise and Run Scale and MICRODIAL (Option 2). . . . . . . . . 16-17 Calibrating the Scales and MICRODIALs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Working to a Line (Option 3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Making Tapered Cuts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20-22 Two-Sided Tapering. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Four and Eight-Sided Tapered Legs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24-25 Setting the MEMORYLOCK System. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Jointing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Safety Warning. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Project Log. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30-31
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INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations on your purchase of the MICRODIAL™ Tapering Jig. We have put a lot of thought and effort into designing and making what we feel is the safest, most accurate tapering jig available. Before using your jig, read through this booklet to familiarize yourself with the jig and how it works. Here is a general overview of the way the jig was designed to work: • The jig is designed to work primarily on the table saw although it can be used in a limited capacity on a router table. • The workpiece must have one straight edge to hold securely against the jig’s fence. • The jig is not meant to be used as a sled: when in use, the workpiece will run directly on the saw’s table. • The jig is designed to be guided along the table saw’s rip fence. It does not use the saw’s miter gauge slots. • The jig can be used to make one, two, three, four, and even eightsided tapers quickly and efficiently.
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•W hile the jig is designed to be used in conjunction with one (or two) GRR-RIPPER ADVANCED MODEL 3D PUSHBLOCK® (GR200) systems (sold separately) it can easily be used alone, particularly with wider workpieces. •T he GRR-RIPPERs attach to the left-hand side of the jig (with the supplied hardware) and provide the secure, safe grip on your workpiece that GRR-RIPPER’s are famous for. •Y our jig can be set up in one of three ways: If you know the angle of the taper you want, there is a built-in precision degree scale (accurate to .125°). Our patentpending COLORMATCH™ system makes dialing in a precise angle a snap.
• If you know how much taper you want per foot, there is a second precision scale that is calibrated to allow to set up the jig using rise and run measurements. • Finally, you can also set the jig by simply laying out the taper you are after on the face of the workpiece and adjusting the jig to match.
• Your jig comes mostly preassembled and ready to use. There is also a handful of added hardware for attaching some optional features as well as a fully adjustable handle. • With minimum care, your new jig should give you years of safe and accurate tapering.
• With all three of these methods, you can preserve the settings using the jig’s built in MEMORYLOCK™ system.
WARRANTY REGISTRATION Each MICROJIG product includes a one year manufacturer’s warranty. Please mail the provided registration card or complete the registration online at MICROJIG.com/support/warranty-registration/
RECEIVE THE MICROJIG E-NEWSLETTER Get the free whitepaper on “4 Easy Ways to Tune-up Your Table Saw” by signing up for the MJ INSIDER, an ongoing email newsletter. Join the smartest woodworkers worldwide today. Go to microjig.com/newsletter and enter your email address. Work smarter.
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SAFETY BASICS
SAFETY BASICS
WARNING! Your MICRODIAL Tapering Jig is designed to be used in conjunction with a tablesaw. Make sure you are familiar with the operation of your saw before attempting any of the techniques presented within this manual. MICROJIG Inc. assumes no liability for any product not manufactured by it. The user must take all necessary precautions when operating a tablesaw or any other tools as recommended by their manufacturers and as required by any prudent tool user.
•A ll components must be thoroughly inspected for damage before use. Stop using the jig if any damage occurs.
• Keep the saw blade as low as possible to make the cut. The saw
•A lways wear safety glasses and hearing protection.
• Make sure the saw’s rip fence is locked in place before making any cuts
•D o not use this jig while under the influence of alcohol, drugs, medication or if you are tired. • If you are not completely confident in your ability to complete a cut, do not attempt it. •M ake sure your workpiece sits solidly on the saw table and has a straight edge to place in contact with the jig’s fence that is securely fastened.
teeth should project no more than 1/4”
• It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser to ensure that any third party reads and agrees to all the safety precautions and terms prior to using the jig.
• Make sure your workpiece is properly loaded into the jig before cutting. It should be tight against the jig’s fence, and seated firmly against the heel at the trailing end.
• Remove all jewelry, secure loose clothing, and tie up long hair before using the jig.
• Tighten the Locking Knob and the Pivot Knob on the jig before cutting.
• The saw table should be clean and free of obstructions before cutting.
• Disengage both the degree scale and the rise and run scale before adjusting the jig. Trying to make adjustments with the scales in place may result in damage to the alignment pins.
• Make sure the rip fence locks
• Check to make sure the blade will not come into contact with the jig or any part of the GRR-RIPPER PUSHBLOCKs during the cut. • When using this jig in conjunction with any other tool, make sure you are familiar with the operation of that tool as well.
securely in place parallel to the saw blade. • Only use sharp, clean blades when making tapered cuts. A rip blade or a combination blade (40 tooth or fewer is preferred).
• Clean up all sawdust from around the base of the saw to keep the floor from being slippery.
• Prior to making a cut, rehearse the procedure with the blade lowered and power off so you can see exactly how the cut will proceed. • Refer to the manual that came with your GRR-RIPPER 3D PUSHBLOCKs for more complete information about how to use them safely and effectively.
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GETTING ACQUAINTED
A B
D
Your MICRODIAL Tapering Jig by MICROJIG comes mostly preassembled and ready to taper. Take a few minutes to look over the photo on the opposite page to familiarize yourself with the various parts and where they are located.
C
A. Holes for hanging the jig A
JJ. Locking Knob
B. Slots for attaching GRR-RIPPERs. B Plenty of adjustability for different sizes of work.
K. Degree scale and MICRODIAL K
C. GRR-RIPPER mounting hardware. C Insert through slots B. D. Pivot Knob D E. MEMORYLOCK™ stops and E hardware. Insert through slots G. F. Trailing heel (H) storage F
I Rise and run scale and I. MICRODIAL
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P
F
L. Slots for mounting the trailing L block (H)
I
Heel Hook M
P
O. Slots for mounting handle (N). O Like the slots for mounting the GRR-RIPPERs, there is plenty of room for adjustment. P. Keyhole slots for attaching an P optional user-made auxiliary sole with wood screws (not included). Please refer to included instructional DVD for further details.
E
G
N. Handle and hardware N Insert through slots O.
G. MEMORYLOCK™ stop slots G H. Trailing block and hardware H Store in storage F when not in use. Insert into slots L when use for jointing.
H
O
P
N J
K M
L
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FACTORY ASSEMBLED PARTS DIAGRAMS FACTORY ASSEMBLED JIG
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ID
DESCRIPTION
PART #
QTY
F1
Top Plate
TJ-P1
1
F2
Bottom Plate
TJ-P2
1
F3
MICRODIAL Degree
TJ-P3
1
F4
MICRODIAL Rise and Run
TJ-P4
1
F5
1/4-20 x 1” PH Screw, Nylon Patch
TJ-H1
2
F6
Compression Spring
TJ-H2
2
F7
1/4-20 Thumb Screw
TJ-H3
2
F8
1/4 x 5/8 Flat Washer
TJ-H4
2
F9
#8 x 1/4” PH Screw
TJ-H5
4
F10
#8 Washer
TJ-H6
4
F11
Degree Scale
TJ-H14
1
F12
Degree Dial Marker (over mold)
TJ-H15
1
F13
Rise and Run Scale
TJ-H16
1
F14
Rise and Run Dial Marker (over mold) TJ-H16
1
F9 F9
F11
F8
F10 F7
F10 F7
F13 F5 F3
F8 F5 F1
F14
F12
F6
F4 F6
F2
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USER ASSEMBLED PARTS DIAGRAMS
FULLY ASSEMBLED MICRODIAL TAPERING JIG
NOTE: Please check if you have all the parts and hardware before assembling. U1
HARDWARE PARTS LIST - YELLOW BAG (USER ASSEMBLY) ID
DESCRIPTION
PART #
QTY
U1
Memory Stop
TJ-P5
2
U2
Trailing Block
TJ-P6
1
U3
1/4-20 Thumb Knob
TJ-H8
8
U4
Shoulder Washer
TJ-H9
6
U5
5/16 OD O-Ring
TJ-H10
4
U6
1/4-20 x 1” T-Bolt
TJ-H7
8
U8
U7 U3 U3
ID
DESCRIPTION
PART #
U1
7
U4 U2 U10 U6
HANDLE & HARDWARE (USER ASSEMBLY)
U9
U6
U3 U4
QTY
U7
Handle
GR-P1 1
U8
1/4-20 x 3/4” PH Screw
GR-H10
2
U9
1/2” OD Washer
GR-H2
2
U10
1/4-20 Oval Nut
GR-H7
2
U5
U6
Hardware for attaching 1 or 2 GRR-RIPPER ADVANCED MODELs (GR-200) (not included) 12
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USING THE DEGREE SCALE AND MICRODIAL (OPTION 1) 3. Use the green lines along with the One way tapers are often specified is by degrees. This is especially
pointer marked with green numbers
true if you are cutting compound miters. Your MICRODIAL Tapering
for 1/8° and 5/8° (.125° and .625°)
Jig is incrementally adjustable for tapers between 0° and 10°. The
angles. Here the jig is set for 3
COLORMATCH™ system consists of the color-coded adjustment dial and
1/8° (3.125°). As long as you follow
degree dial, which are designed to make it easy to precisely set angles in
the COLORMATCH, it is nearly
1/8° (.125°) increments. The photos that follow show exactly how to use
impossible to go wrong.
these to achieve the precise angles you need. NOTE: See page 16 if the scales don’t line up with the pointer.
1. Start by determining what angle (in degrees) you need. This may be specified on your plans, or you can draw the taper on your piece and measure it.
4. The black lines and numbers are for the 1/4° and 3/4° (.25° and .75°) settings, and the yellow lines and numbers are for the 3/8° and 7/8° (.375° and .875°) settings. Here the jig is set for 3 1/4°.
2. T o set the scale, lift up on the adjustment knob and pivot it. For whole and half degrees, use the
5. For angles that fall in between the
pointer marked with the red 0.
eighths, use the pointer marked
Notice how those marks on the
with a black X inside a circle.
scale are also in red. When you
There is no pin associated with this
release the knob, a pin will engage
pointer, so the jig will pivot freely.
one of the holes in the scale for precise alignment. Here, the jig is set to make a 3° taper.
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USING THE RISE AND RUN SCALE AND MICRODIAL (OPTION 2) 3. To set the jig for the 1/8” inch divisions (1/8”, 3/8”, 5/8”, 7⁄8”), Another way tapers are often specified is by rise and run (a certain
align the pointer near the black
amount of taper over a specified length). Your MICRODIAL Tapering Jig
numbers with the appropriate black
also includes a scale for this. This COLORMATCH rise and run dial and
line on the scale. Here the jig is set
scale are calibrated to allow you to set up tapers ranging from 0” to 2”
to cut a taper of 1 1/8” per foot.
per foot.
NOTE: The numbers refer to the number of sixteenths in each eighth.
1. L ay out the taper on your workpiece. Note the rise (width) and the run (length) of the taper in inches. To calculate the rise per foot, plug the numbers into this formula: Rise x 12 __________ = Rise per foot Run Ex: A leg that tapers 3/8” in 18” has a taper of 1/4” per foot.
4. For the sixteenths, use either the pointer near the yellow or green numbers aligned with the yellow or green lines respectively. Here the jig is set to cut a taper of 1 3/16” per foot.
3/8 x 12 __________ = 1/4 18
o set the jig for the 1/4” inch 2. T
5. For tapers that don’t work out to
divisions (0, 1/4”, 1/2”, 3/4”, 1”
even sixteenth inch increments, use
etc.), pull up on the knob and align
the pointer marked with a black
the pointer near the red 0 with the
X inside a circle. There is no pin
appropriate red line on the scale.
associated with this pointer, so the
When the dial is aligned properly,
jig will pivot freely. Here the jig is
a pin underneath will drop the
set to cut a taper just under
appropriate hole. Here the jig is set
1 1/4”per foot.
to cut a taper of 1” per foot.
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WORKING TO A LINE
CALIBRATING THE SCALES AND MICRODIALS
(OPTION 3)
Your MICRODIAL Tapering Jig is factory calibrated and ready to go. In
Sometimes it is easier to simply layout the taper on your workpiece and
the unlikely event that the MICRODIAL scales are not aligned properly,
then cut to that line. To set your MICRODIAL Tapering Jig to cut to a line,
follow these steps to recalibrate the jig to make the scales accurate
lay out the taper on the face of your workpiece. Extend the layout line
once more.
down the ends and/or edges of the piece so you can see exactly where you want the taper to begin and end. NOTE: Once you have the jig set, use the degree scale to determine the actual measurement and record it in your Project Log (page 28).
1. Turn the MICRODIAL so the pointer that corresponds with the red 0° label is pointing towards the scale. Drop the pin into the 0° hole. Loosen the screws that hold the scale in place and shift it so the red 0° line aligns with the pointer.
2. R epeat the process at the other end of the scale aligning red 10° line with the same 0° pointer. Tighten the screws and double check to make sure nothing shifted. Your jig should now be calibrated. Use the same technique to calibrate the rise and run scale.
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1. Lay out the taper on your
and adjust both the fence and jig
workpiece. Hold the piece on
so they hold the piece with the
your saw so the beginning and
layout line aligned with the slot.
end points align with the edge
Tighten both the locking knob
of the miter gauge slot (which
and the pivot knob to set the jig.
should be parallel to the blade).
Reposition the fence to make
Hold the jig against the rip fence
the cut.
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MAKING TAPERED CUTS
3. For narrow pieces, such as table legs, the outside leg of your GRR-RIPPER may hang out beyond the edge of the workpiece. In this case, add the GRR-
Once you have your MICRODIAL Tapering Jig set (pages 12-17) it is time
RIPPER’s Adjustable Spacer
to attach your GRR-RIPPER 3D PUSHBLOCKs and make the cut(s). The jig
along with a user-made riser block for
is designed to work with one (or for longer pieces, two) GRR- RIPPERs
extra support. Riser block size
ADVANCED MODEL (GR-200). GRR-RIPPERs provide both a secure grip on
and dimension will vary depending
your workpiece as well as handles to keep your fingers protected from the
on the dimensions of your workpiece.
blade. When the GRR-RIPPERs are attached to the jig, extremely safe and
Press down firmly on the GRR-RIPPER.
accurate tapers are possible.
Tighten the knobs to ensure the GRR-RIPPER has good traction.
1. Attach your GRR-RIPPER to the jig with the included T-bolts and knobs. These engage the slots in the GRRRIPPER’s Balance Support. Be sure the Balance Support is fully inserted under the knobs and doesn’t stick out past the edge of the tapering jig. You may need to experiment a little with the front and back positioning to make sure the GRR-RIPPER isn’t in line with the cut. djust the GRR-RIPPER’s Center 2. A Leg laterally so it rests firmly on the workpiece, but off to one side of the cut line. It helps to have the cut line drawn on your piece so you can clearly see where the cut will be. NOTE: If necessary, the Center Leg
4. With the spacer in place, adjust the rip fence so the blade enters the workpiece where you want the taper to begin. Make sure the workpiece is against the jig’s edge and butted against the heel at the rear. Align the taper starting line on the table leg to the front tip of the saw blade, or draw a reference line on the throat plate as a alignment line. NOTE: Raise the saw blade no more than 1/4” (.25”) above the surface of the workpiece. Ensure that the saw blade passes through the GRR-RIPPER tunnel. 5. Guide the jig along the fence to make the cut, keeping both hands on the handles. As the cut progresses, you can shift your grip from handle to handle depending on what feels comfortable.
can be removed from the GRR- RIPPER if it cannot be positioned off of the cut line. 20
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MAKING TAPERED CUTS (CONTINUED)
6. On most tapered legs, the two
TWO-SIDED TAPERING
If your project calls for a piece that is tapered equally on opposite sides,
tapered sides are adjacent to each
you will need to reset your MICRODIAL Tapering Jig in between the cuts.
other. This means the leg will be
After you make the first cut, you have changed the reference surface for
thinner after you rotate it to get
the second cut. Reset the jig by doubling the initial setting as shown in
ready to make the second cut.
the photos below. Note: On wider workpieces, you can use the tapering
To compensate for this, loosen
jig without GRR-RIPPERs.
the knobs on the sides of the GRR-RIPPER and push it down so it makes firm contact with the leg. Tighten the knobs to lock the GRR-RIPPER in place.
1. Lay out both tapers on your workpiece. Set the jig to make the first cut. The taper here is 3°. Secure the piece the table with
7. F or longer workpieces, adding a second GRR-RIPPER gives you
your hand. Keep fingers clear of blade. Make the cut.
increased control. Tie the two GRR-RIPPERs together with a longer riser block. Just make sure both GRR-RIPPERs will clear the blade.
2. To cut the second side, flip the piece over so the side you just cut is against the jig. Lay out the second cut. Reset the jig to double
SAFETY ALERT! When making a second cut on a tapered piece, the trailing end of the leg will be thinner than the leading end. Make sure the blade isn’t set so high that it will cut into the underside of the GRR-RIPPER at the end of the cut. Move the GRR- RIPPER forward if necessary. 22
(2X) the setting for the first cut. Here the setting is for 6°. Secure the piece the table with your hand. Keep fingers clear of blade. Make the cut. Note: You may need to adjust the rip fence to align the saw blade to the starting point of the second taper.
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FOUR AND EIGHT-SIDED TAPERED LEGS
3. For eight-sided tapers, taper all 4 sides of the leg then tilt the saw blade to 45-degrees and reset the jig to the desired rise and run or degree.
Making a piece with a four-sided taper is little different than making one
Notice the bigger the angle will result
with a two-sided taper. Make the first two cuts on two adjacent sides of
in a steeper taper cut. Use your best
the piece, then reset your MICRODIAL Tapering Jig to cut the final two
judgment on the style and design of
sides. For an eight-sided (octagonal) taper, you’ll change the jig setting
your tapers. In the example image,
a third time and tilt the blade on your table saw. Despite all the different
the piece tapers to an octagon at the
settings, the precision scales on your MICRODIAL Tapering Jig make this
bottom, so the setting was 3 times
entire process quite easy, and very repeatable.
the original taper of 3/4” per foot. Reset the fence to have the taper start in the desired place.
1. Set up the jig to make the first two cuts. In this case, the jig was set to cut 1⁄4” per foot. Adjust the rip fence so the taper starts at the right point. Cut the first side. Then rotate the piece so the cut side is up and cut the second side. 2. F or the 3rd and 4th sides, reset
4. Make the tapers as usual, rotating the piece clockwise after each cut. NOTE: if you are using a right-tilt saw, Pay close attention to where the blade is as you will be cutting along the upper corner of the workpiece.
the jig for twice the amount of desired taper (here 1/2” per foot) to compensate for the cuts you just made. You may need to reset the fence slightly to have the taper start in the right place. The example
5. Eight-sided tapers can lend an air
required approximately a 1/16”
of real elegance to a table leg.
adjustment. Notice the beginning
Experiment on some spare pieces
of the taper indicated by the marker
to see what other forms you
line is inline with the beginning of
can create.
the saw blade or the reference line drawn on throat plate.
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JOINTING
SETTING THE MEMORYLOCK™ SYSTEM
The MEMORYLOCK system allows for quickly shifting between two
The MICRODIAL Tapering Jig may be used as a large pushblock to
preset tapers for repeatable cutting. Use the two MEMORYLOCK Stops
straighten the edge of crooked boards on your tablesaw. Attach the
to memorize two individual tapers.
Trailing Block and shift the jig’s Top Plate to the Jointing Slots. The MICRODIAL Tapering Jig can straighten the edges of boards up to approximately 12” wide and 30” long.
1. Set the MEMORYLOCK Stop for the
1. Attach the Trailing Block to the
shallower angle in the slot near the
back slots of the jig using the
center of the jig. Position the stop
bolts. Make sure the pointed nubs
so the two small nubs rest against
are facing toward the front of the
the edge of movable portion of the
jig. The pointed nubs create even
jig and tighten the knob. Make sure
contact for rough or uneven lumber.
the long nub is facing down toward the bottom of the jig. 2. Unbolt the Top Plate from the Pivot and Locking Knobs. Shift 1” 2. F or the steeper taper, set up the MEMORYLOCK Stop in the angled slot towards the rear of the jig. Again adjust the stop so the two nubs
forward and reattach it through the two Jointing Slots. In this position the Top Plate can slide laterally to accommodate wider boards.
touch the edge of the movable part of the jig. With the stops set, you
3. To make the cut, hold the jig on top
can switch between them by simply
of your workpiece with the Trailing
loosening the locking knob and
Block hooked on the trailing end of
pivoting the bottom plate.
the board. Guide the jig along the fence, pushing the board as you go. For even more support, add one or two GRR- RIPPER GR-200s.
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SAFETY
SAFETY WARNING! When tapering two adjacent sides of a
To learn more about MICROJIG’s brands, watch our product demonstration videos available on MICROJIG.com. Work smarter.
piece, be aware of the blade height when making the second cut. This is critical if your taper exceeds 1/2” per foot. As shown in the photos below, even if the blade is barely above the surface of the piece at the beginning of the cut, it can come dangerously close to the GRR-RIPPER at the end. Take the time to check this out before turning on the power. If necessary you can shift the GRR-RIPPER(s) forward to create additional clearance. In extreme cases, remove the rear GRR-RIPPER to eliminate risk of the blade cutting into its underside.
The Ultimate 3D Pushblock® for preventing kickback, saving fingers, and precision cutting.
1. In this example, the workpiece
“These are AMAZING results and it gives you the opportunity to say that 100% and 10 out of 10 DIYers approve and recommend the product!”
tapers from 1 5/8” at the leading end to 1/2”at the trailing end, (taper of 9/16” per foot over 24”).
– Ross Tanner, Product Test Editor, HANDY Magazine
Here, the blade is set just barely above the stock surface.
2. A t the trailing end, the blade is
The only One-Touch Calibration® Miter Bar for woodworking sleds, jigs, and fixtures.
significantly above the stock surface and just barely clears the underside of the GRR-RIPPER. In this case, shifting the GRR-RIPPER forward provides just enough clearance for a safe cut.
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The easy to install, easy to use, and easy to align table saw safety splitter.
PROJECT LOG
PROJECT LOG Project Name:___________________________________Date________________
TAPERED LEG EXAMPLES
Wood Species_______________________________________________________ Number of Legs_____________________________________________________ Leg Dimensions: Example: 2” 1.5” 25” Thickness_______________Width_ ________________ Length_________________
Two-Sided
Four-Sided
My Project: Thickness_______________Width_________________ Length_________________ Saw Blade Height: Always set the blade height at 1/4” above stock. Different blade height affects Fence Setting.
Taper Surface Example
Taper starts inches from top
Taper Degree or inch/foot
Fence Setting
Blade Angle
5”
1.25° or 3/16”
10.25”
90°
Side 1 Settings
Eight-Sided Long
Eight-Sided Short
RISE AND RUN CALCULATION
Side 2 Settings Side 3 Settings
1/4” Rise per foot
Side 4 Settings
3/8” Rise
Side 5 Settings Side 6 Settings Side 7 Settings Side 8 Settings
Rise x 12 __________ = Rise per foot Run
12” 18” Run Drawing for illustration purposes (not to scale)
Ex: A leg that tapers 3/8” in 18” has a taper of 1/4” per foot. 3/8 x 12 __________ = 1/4 18 In this example, set the Rise and Run MICRODIAL to 1/4” to acheive 3/8” taper in 18”
Permission granted to copy this form for your personal use.
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