Moss Motors Supercharger Installation Instructions

Transcript

Installation Instructions Moss Motors Supercharger FOR MG TC/TD PART # 150-000 MOSS MOTORS, LTD. 440 Rutherford St. P.O. Box 847 Goleta, CA 93116 1-800-235-6954 • FAX 805-692-2525 • www.mossmotors.com OVERVIEW the strengths of your engine to give you maximum power. However, it will also exploit any weaknesses of your engine. This system is designed to supplement an engine in good condition, not make up for lost power in a tired one. If your car has an old, tired engine you will want to overhaul it first. Moss Motors Supercharger For The MG TC/TD Congratulations on the purchase of the Moss Motors Supercharger for your MG TC/TD. This system when fitted on a 1250cc MG TC/TD and will provide 6-8 psi of pressure or “boost.” Before supercharging any engine there are a few things that you should first check on your MG TC/TD: Please completely read these entire instructions before attempting this installation! Supercharger Installation Instructions: 1. Overall condition of the engine. Does the engine have good compression of at least 120 psi per cylinder? For the MG TC: 1. Unlatch side hood panels and remove the screws securing the hood center strip end caps. With an assistant, remove the hood assembly completely and place it out of the way. Remove the radiator stay rods from the points at the header tank and remove the driver’s side stay rod from the firewall; it will not be reused. After draining and disconnecting the upper and lower radiator hoses, remove the lower mounting nuts and then remove the radiator and shell completely. 2. Oil pressure is a good indicator of the condition of the engine. Does your engine have a minimum of 25psi oil pressure at idle with the engine hot? 3. Cooling system condition. Does your car run at highway speeds with coolant temperature under 190° F.? (85°C) If you can answer yes to these questions, then your car is a good candidate for supercharging. This installation of a supercharger will exploit all 150-000 2. Disconnect the choke and slow running -1- Revised 07/22/03 Supercharger Installation Instructions Illustation 1 cables from their linkage, the float bowl overflow tubes from the engine bearer plate and the throttle link from the firewall throttle arm. Disconnect the fuel line at the rear float bowl; use caution as this line may be under pressure! 4. On the passenger’s side of the engine, loosen the generator adjustment and remove the fan belt. 5. Rotate the engine with the hand crank until the timing mark notch on the crank pulley (TDC) lines up with the pointer on the timing cover. 3. Remove the air-cleaner support straps, and then remove the carburetors and intake manifold completely from the engine by removing the manifold clamps, nuts and lockwashers. 150-000 6. Remove the bolts and nuts that secure the engine bearer plate to the front motor -2- Revised 07/22/03 Supercharger Installation Instructions mounts. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold. Place a jack with a small piece of wood on top of it, under the front of the oil pan. Raise the jack until you just see the bottom edge of the crankshaft pulley clear the frame cross member in front of it. Remove the dog nut, washer and crank pulley from the end of the crankshaft. If you’re lucky enough to have a pneumatic impact gun, great. If not, use a breaker-bar or large ratchet. Have an assistant keep the engine from rotating by placing a large and very stout screwdriver blade into the teeth of the ring gear; you can access this by temporarily removing the starter. With a little coaxing (gentle prying), the crank pulley should pull off the end of the crank by hand. If not, use a 2 or 3 jaw puller. new manifold are a very tight fit at this point, but you can tighten the nuts later when instructed with a open end wrench 11. Install the supercharger support bracket so that the supercharger drive shaft passes through the large hole in the top. The side of the bracket with the angled cutaway should be outwards toward the fender; the lower portion should be behind the engine bearer plate. Attach the S/C support bracket to the end of the nose casting with the five small #12 x 3/4" Allen bolts and lock washers provided (kit bag C) and tighten the bolts only finger tight at this point. Use a small “C” clamp to temporarily hold the support bracket to the back of the engine bearer plate. Through the slotted hole and the round hole next to it, mark the bearer plate and drill two 11/32" holes. Remove the “C” clamp and attach the support bracket to the bearer plate with the new bolts and washers provided for this purpose. Tighten the bolts only finger tight at this point. Now tighten everything up starting first with the five Allen bolts on the nose casting, then the four manifold clamp nuts and finally the two support bracket bolts. For esthetic purposes, you may trim off the bottom portion of the brace below the engine bearer plate 7. Install the new aluminum crank pulley on the end of the crankshaft. Insure that the keyway in the pulley lines up with the key on the crank. Reinstall the dog nut and washer and tighten securely. You can now lower the engine and reattach the motor mounts. 8. Remove the fan blades from the water pump pulley. Place the supplied spacer between the fan blades and pully. Then reattach the blades using the new, longer bolts supplied. 12. Place the key (kit bag E) in the slot of the S/C drive shaft and rotate it so that it is straight up at 12:00. Install the S/C drive belt by looping it around the new crank pulley and place the S/C pulley in the free end of the belt. Slide the S/C pulley and belt on to the shaft (key way up!) insuring that the key is not dislodged. Install the pulley bolt, lock and large diameter flat washer (kit bag E). Squeeze the drive belt together and use it as a handle for the pulley, while you tighten the 9. Reinstall the fan belt; make sure that it is in good condition, as in the future to replace it you will also have to remove the supercharger belt. (Fan belt part # 434-120) 10. Install the supercharger complete, with manifolds onto the studs just vacated by the stock carburetor set-up. Starting with the inner two studs, install the manifold clamps. You will find that the clamps, studs and the 150-000 -3- Revised 07/22/03 Supercharger Installation Instructions moderate pressure with one finger, the drive belt should deflect no more than 3/4" on the upper run near the water pump pulley. Re-check the belt tension after 100 miles. 15. Reinstall the radiator shell assembly and the passenger side radiator stay rod. Carefully check to ensure all hoses and clamps are secure and clear supercharger drive belt. With an assistant, reinstall the hood assembly. 16. Fill the S/C nose housing with new, clean motor oil by removing the upper plug on the front of the nose casting and adding approximately 4 fl.oz. of 30 or 20/50 wt. top name brand motor oil (we like Castrol GTX). Failure to do this step will void your warranty and destroy your supercharger! Illustration 3 Illustration 2 bolt securely. 13. Assemble the idler arm assembly by passing its 3/8" x 1 7/8"pulley bolt (kit bag D) through the idler pulley, then the conical spacer with the top of the cone against the idler bearing then the idler arm with a nyloc nut on the backside. 14. The idler assembly attaches to the S/C support bracket in the hole directly beneath the S/C pulley, with a 3/8" x 1.00" bolt, flat washers and nylock nut provided (kit Bag D). Tighten the mounting bolt just until it is snug, then push the idler pulley against the outside of the lower belt run and tighten the mounting bolt VERY TIGHT. Unlike the generator/fan belt, the S/C drive belt should be tight. Using 150-000 Illustration 3 Upper Fill Plug 17. Attach the carburetor to the end of its manifold using the two 3/8"x 1" coarse thread bolts and lock washers (kit bag B). Use only a gasket between the carburetor and mani- -4- Revised 07/22/03 Supercharger Installation Instructions threaded link rods. Thread a #10 nut and rod end on to each end of the link rod. Position the rod end so that their swivel studs point to opposite sides and tighten the #10 nuts against the rod end to lock them into position. Thread one of the new throttle link studs into the throttle extension, be sure to use a lock washer. Connect the other rod end of the throttle link to the lever on the carburetor throttle shaft with a #10 nut and lock washer. Illustration 5. 19. Attach the choke cable to the new choke linkage and tie the slow running cable out of the way as it will no longer be used. Attach the fuel line to the “banjo” fitting on the float bowl. Illustration 4 fold and not a thick isolator. Carburetors on super charged engines get very cold due to the high flow rate of the intake air, and are subject to icing. Use of a gasket only will ensure that the carburetor does not ice up. 18. From the firewall mounted throttle arm remove the throttle link stud if you did not earlier. In its place install the hexagonal throttle extension with the small #10 x 3/4" bolt and lock washer provided (kit bag A) so that it points out, away from the engine. Assemble the throttle link by using the shorter of the two 150-000 Illustration 5 -5- Revised 07/22/03 Supercharger Installation Instructions Supercharger Installation Instructions: For the MG TD: 25. On the driver’s side of the engine, loosen the generator adjustment and remove the fan belt. 20. Open the passenger side hood panel (LHD) and remove the radiator stay rod from the points at the header tank and chassis tower. The radiator will still be securely supported with the one remaining stay rod. 26. Rotate the engine with the hand crank until the timing mark notch on the crank pulley (TDC) lines up with the pointer on the timing cover. 21. Remove the center screw and round cover from the passenger side horn. Locate the A2 terminal at the fuse block and remove the two brown/green wires there one at a time, honking the horn between, to locate the power wire for the removed horn. Leave the removed horn’s power wire disconnected to eliminate any danger of shorting. Next, remove the two wires from the horn’s electrical connections, and then the horn completely from the firewall bracket. 27. Remove the dog nut, washer and crank pulley from the end of crankshaft. The easiest way to do this is to pass a long extension through the hole in the bumper and radiator assembly and then insert it into a socket on the dog nut. If your lucky enough to have a pneumatic impact gun, great! If not, use a breaker-bar or large ratchet and have an assistant keep the engine from rotating by placing a large and very stout screwdriver blade into the teeth of the ring gear. You can access this by temporarily removing the starter. With a little coaxing (gentle prying) the crank pulley should pull off the end of the crank by hand. If not, use a 2 or 3 jaw puller. 22. Disconnect the choke cable from its linkage and unbolt the throttle link from the firewall throttle arm. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump elbow. Use caution as this line may be under pressure! 28. Install the new aluminum crank pulley on the end of the crankshaft. Insure that the keyway in the pulley lines up with the key on the crank. If you didn’t rotate the crank when removing the dog nut and old pulley, you can use the timing mark to help line everything up. If the crank did turn, put the car in gear and gently rock it until the crank key appears straight up at 12:00. Reinstall the dog nut and washer and tighten securely. 23. Remove the air-cleaner, carburetors and intake manifold completely from the engine by removing the manifold clamps, nuts and lock-washers. 24. Slide the supercharger complete with manifold onto the studs just vacated by the stock carb set-up. Starting with the two inner studs, install the manifold clamps, nut and lock washers finger tight only. You will find that the clamps and studs and the new manifold are a very tight fit at this point; and that when instructed later, you can tighten the nuts with an open end wrench. 150-000 29. Reinstall the fan belt; make sure that it is in good condition, as to replace it in the future you will also have to remove the supercharger belt. (Fan belt part # 434-120) -6- Revised 07/22/03 Supercharger Installation Instructions 30. Place a jack with a small piece of wood on top of it, under the front of the oil pan. Raise the jack until you just see the engine just start to rise. You only want to take the weight of the engine off the front mount, not raise the car. Squeeze the drive belt together and use it as a handle for the pulley, while you tighten the bolt securely. 33. Assemble the idler arm assembly by passing its 3/8" x 1 7/8"pulley bolt (kit bag D) through the idler pulley, then the conical spacer with the top of the cone against the idler bearing then the idler arm with a nyloc nut on the backside. 31. Mount the supercharger support bracket by first removing the two bolts and nuts that attach the engine mount bracket to the engine bearer plate on the right side. Install the support bracket so that the supercharger drive shaft passes through the large hole in the top, and lower portion is behind the engine bearer plate. Attach the S/C support bracket to the end of the nose casting with the five small #12 x 3/4" Allen bolts and lock washers provided (kit bag C). Tighten the bolts only finger tight at this point. Attach the lower portion of the support bracket to the engine bearer plate using the two new longer bolts and washers provided for this purpose. These new bolts will replace the two old bolts previously removed, and will pass through the engine mount bracket, the bearer plate and then the support bracket’s slotted holes. Tighten the bolts only finger tight at this point. Now tighten everything up; starting first with the five Allen bolts on the nose casting, then the four manifold clamp nuts and finally the two lower support brackets bolts. You can now remove the jack from under the oil pan. 34. The idler assembly attaches to the S/C support bracket in the hole directly beneath the drive pulley, with a 3/8" x 1.00" bolt, flat washers and nylock nut provided (kit Bag D). Tighten the mounting bolt just till it is snug, then push the idler pulley against the outside of the lower belt run and tighten the mounting bolt VERY TIGHT. Unlike the generator/fan belt, the S/C drive belt should be tight. Using moderate pressure with one finger, the drive belt should deflect approximately 3/4" on the upper run near the water pump pulley. Recheck belt tension after 100 miles. 35. Fill the S/C nose housing with new, clean motor oil by removing the upper plug on the front of the nose casting and adding approximately 4 fl.oz. of 30 or 20/50 wt. top name brand motor oil (we like Castrol GTX). Failure to follow this step will void your warranty and destroy your supercharger! Illustration 6 32. Place the key (kit bag E) in the slot of the S/C drive shaft and rotate it so that it is straight up at 12:00. Install the S/C drive belt by looping it around the new crank pulley and place the S/C pulley in the free end of the belt. Slide the S/C pulley and belt on to the shaft (key way up!) insuring that the key is not dislodged. Install the pulley bolt, lock and large diameter flat washer (kit bag E). 150-000 Illustration 6 -7- Upper Fill Plug Revised 07/22/03 Supercharger Installation Instructions throttle arm remove the ballend stud, if you did not earlier. In its place, install the hexagonal throttle extension with the small #10 x 3/4" bolt and lock washer provided (kit bag A) so that it points out, away from the engine. Assemble the throttle link by using the longer of the two threaded link rods. Thread a #10 nut and rod end on to each end of the link rod. Position the rod end so that their swivel studs point to opposite sides and tighten the #10 nuts against the rod end to lock them into position. Thread one of the new throttle link studs into the throttle extension. Be sure to use a lock washer. Connect Illustration 7 36. Attach the carburetor to the end of the manifold using the two 3/8"x 1" coarse thread bolts and lock washers (kit bag B). Use only a gasket between the carburetor and manifold and not a thick isolator. Carburetors on supercharged engines get very cold due to the high flow rate of the intake air, and are subject to icing. Using only a gasket will ensure that the carburetor does not ice up. Illustration 8 37. From the firewall mounted 150-000 -8- Revised 07/22/03 Supercharger Installation Instructions the other end of the throttle link to the lever on the carburetor throttle shaft with a #10 nut and lock washer. Install the choke cable to the new choke linkage. Remove the original fuel line that connected the two float bowls to each other and install it between the fuel pump elbow and the new float bowl. Illustration 8 Carburetor and Ignition tuning: Carburetor: The first thing to do is to drain the fuel tank and line and refill the tank with PREMIUM FUEL with an octane rating of no less than 92. Your days of using regular fuel are over! A supercharged engine requires the highest possible octane available. This will ensure you get maximum power and prolong engine life. Failure to use premium fuel will result in the engine “pinging” or “knocking” and a short and extremely expensive engine life. Check that the float lever arm is set at 3/8" and that the jet is properly centered in the carb body. This can be checked by raising the dashpot piston and letting it fall; an audible “clunk” should be heard after it falls. Check that the damper assembly is filled with oil. (Dashpot oil #220-225) Turn the jet adjusting nut all the way to the top of its adjustment, then turn it one full revolution (6 flats) down. This will be a good starting point for the mixture adjustment. Pull the choke to move the jet down and start the engine. Gently rev the engine no higher than 2500 rpm as the engine warms up and temporarily set the idle speed to around 1200 rpm. Once the engine begins to warm up, ease the choke back in to its off position and make sure the jet is hard up against the adjustment 150-000 nut. Once the engine is warm you can easily check the mixture by raising the dashpot piston approximately 3/16" with a long, thin screwdriver, while the engine is running. If when you raise the piston the engine speed slows or stalls, the mixture is too lean and it needs more fuel. To increase the fuel, turn the jet nut down a flat or two (easy does it!). If you raise the piston and the engine speed increases and stays there, the mixture is too rich and it needs less fuel. To decrease the amount of fuel, turn the jet nut a flat or two up. The fuel mixture setting is ideal when you raise the piston and the idle speed increases -9- Revised 07/22/03 Supercharger Installation Instructions momentarily and then immediately drops. Once you have set the mixture, reset the idle to 800 - 900 rpm and recheck the mixture, adjusting as necessary. Warranty: Moss superchargers are warranted against defects in material and workmanship by Moss Motors, Ltd., for 12 months from the date of shipment provided that there is no alteration, substitution or disassembly of the provided components and configuration. We will replace defective components or refund your purchase price at our discretion. The warranty does not cover labor, failure of a related component, failure resulting from faulty installation, failure resulting from the use of low octane fuel nor would the liability of Moss Motors, Ltd., exceed the cost of the original supercharger kit. Ignition tuning: Set the ignition timing as outlined in the factory workshop manual (TD/C). For most installations this setting will be sufficient. However if you experience “pinging” or “knocking”, you may want to slightly retard the ignition timing. Pinging or knocking is usually heard while accelerating and typically sounds like gravel striking the underside of the car. Do not ignore this symptom, as it is a warning of a possible engine failure! When first tuning your supercharged MG TD/TC start with a fresh set of spark plugs so that you can monitor your engine performance. Remove the spark plugs after 100 miles and note the color of the porcelain insulator. Ideally it should show a dark brown color. Should the insulator color be white or gray, you may want to choose a “colder” sparkplug heat range selection. Should you have any technical questions regarding any aspect of this supercharger system, please contact Moss Motors Technical Services. For warranty repairs, contact your selling dealer. Warranty for all components must be supported by the proper registration documentation including the original purchase invoice. Spark Plugs: Standard Heat Range Cold Heat Range TC/TD 1/2" Reach Champion L86C Champion L82C TD/TF 3/4" Reach Champion N5C Champion N4C 150-000 -10- Revised 07/22/03