Moto 120 - Instructions For Setup And Service

Transcript

Moto 120 8/25/98 3:51 PM Page 1 INSTRUCTIONS FOR SETUP AND SERVICE HEADSHOK MOTO 120 Installation of fork in headtube 1. Begin with the Moto fork assembled, but with the top crown removed. 2. Insert the steerer tube into the head tube as you would with any other fork. 3. Install the upper parts of the headset. 4. Install the top crown on top of the upper headset cup. 5. Install the headset spacers and stem on top of the top crown. 6. Press a 1” star-fangled nut into the steerer tube. 7. Use an Aheadset top cap specifically designed for a 11/8” alloy steerer tube. (This top cap has a 22mm lower end with a large flange, unlike the standard 1” or 11/8” top caps.) Complete the headset adjustment as usual. When the headset is adjusted, apply grease to steerer tube clamp bolt and tighten to 6 ft-lbs. Pre-lubrication of the fork sliders To eliminate any stiction from the fork slider, the bushings inside the stanchion tubes should be lubricated before the bike is ridden. A “wet” lube like Pedro’s Synlube is recommended. Using a pin-spanner wrench, unthread the top caps from both fork legs. Compress the fork from beneath, allowing access to the cartridge shafts. Drop some oil down into the stanchion tube, covering upper stanchion bushing. Re-tighten the top caps of the cartridges. The oil will slowly work its way past the upper bushing and lubricate the lower bushing and stanchion seal. Installation of front wheel in fork Begin by making sure the dropout pinch bolts are loose and the threads are clean and lubricated with grease. Apply a thin coating of grease to the threads on the end of the hub axle. Place wheel between the dropouts with brake disc installed in the brake caliper. Slide the hub axle into the fork through the non-brake side, through the hub and into the brake-side dropout. Thread the axle into the brake-side dropout by hand. Tighten hand-tight, then tighten an additional 1/4 turn or so with an inward-turning pin spanner wrench (Park SPA-3, blue) to secure. Tighten the disc brake-side dropout pinch bolt to 8-10 ft-lbs. Then, with 40 psi in the fork legs (see section on air spring preload), compress the fork several times. Finish by tightening the remaining dropout pinch bolt to 8-10 ft-lbs. (This procedure ensures that fork is in alignment when the dropouts are tightened.) Adjustment of head tube angle, tire-crown clearance* Let all air pressure out of both legs of the fork, and compress fork so that it is at the bottom of its travel. Loosen the stanchion clamp bolts, and slide the stanchion tubes up in the clamps until the bottom crown is 15mm from the front tire. Mark the stanchions at this point with a marker or tape (don’t use a scribe). This is the lowest safe adjustment for the fork crown. Important! Remember to re-check this clearance each time you change front tires! 1. Moto 120 8/25/98 3:51 PM Page 2 From this point, slide the top and bottom crowns up the stanchions until the desired head tube angle is located. Use a “Smart Level” digital level or a plumb line and a protractor to determine the head tube angle. Remember that the Moto fork is designed to be preloaded so that the fork sags 1/4” to 3/8” when the rider sits on the bike. To compensate for this, set the head tube angle with the bike unloaded, then slide the triple clamps up the stanchion tubes 1/4” to 3/8” before tightening the stanchion clamp bolts. This way, when the rider sits on the bike, and the fork compresses, head tube angle will be correct. Apply grease to the threads of the stanchion clamp bolts and tighten to 8 ft-lbs. Pressurize both fork legs to 40 psi, and push down on the handlebar to cycle the fork several times. To do a final check of the bike’s head tube angle, begin by setting the preload of both the front and rear shocks. Then check the head tube angle with the rider seated on the bike. 15mm Minimum! Measure with Suspension FULLY Compressed. IMPORTANT NOTE: Tops of the fork legs must be at least 2mm above top crown. *Note on fitting Moto to bikes with long head tubes:On some frames with long head tubes, it is impossible to get a desirable head tube angle and maintain this safe adjustment. In these cases, a special “drop-down” top crown must be used. The drop-down top crown (part #HD105/) is available through Cannondale/ HeadShok dealers. Frame bumpers for stanchion tubes To keep the aluminum stanchion tubes from hitting the frame, the Moto fork is equipped with frame bumpers that slide onto the stanchion tubes. These bumpers (part #104877) should be adjusted so that they contact the frame when the handlebars are turned all the way in either direction. These bumpers will not protect the frame or fork in all possible circumstances. Any damage to the Moto fork or to a frame resulting from fork hitting frame is not covered by warranty. Damping Dial setup Using a small flathead screwdriver, gently turn the tuning shaft clockwise until it stops. Do not force the tuning shaft! Only turn it until it is lightly seated. Tightening the shaft with excessive force will damage the valves within the cartridge. Loosen the 3mm allen screw located in the side of the Damping Dial. Install the dial on the tuning shaft, with the ball plunger set into the machined groove in the top cap. Turn the dial all the way clockwise. Press down firmly on the Damping Dial while tightening the 3mm allen screw set into the side of the dial. 2. Moto 120 8/25/98 3:51 PM Page 3 Pressurize both legs to 40 psi. Check the function of the suspension fork in each of the five positions of the Damping Dial. When the dial is turned all the way to the right (clockwise), the fork will be very stiff as it is compressed slowly. (The fork will still compress if it’s pushed quickly.) When the dial is turned to the left, the damping should be very soft and compliant. Please note that the Moto cartridge is not designed to lock-out at any time. The Damping Dial on the Moto fork controls the slow-speed damping only. The term “slow-speed” damping refers to the slow compression of the fork as the rider’s weight changes position, as during sprints, climbs etc. To check the function of the slow-speed damping, set the dial and lean on the handlebars. Don’t push quickly on the bars, as you would to feel the function of another fork. Even with the Damping Dial turned all the way to the right, the fork will compress if it is pushed quickly, as the high-speed damping circuit takes over. Caution: Do not back the tuning shaft out more than one full turn from its clockwise limit. Oil loss will occur if the shaft is loosened too far. Air Spring Preload Since the HeadShok Moto employs dual air springs, the preload is adjusted by altering the air pressure in the fork legs. Generally, heavier riders require higher preload (more air pressure) than lighter riders or those preferring a softer ride. Most riders use preload pressure of 35-50 psi (2.4-3.5 bar) in each fork leg. We recommend setting a preload pressure that allows the fork to compress (or “sag in”) 1/4” to 3/8” when rider sits on the bike in a normal, relaxed riding position. Adjustment of the preload of the HeadShok Moto suspension fork requires a precise air pump with a schraeder valve connector. A check valve may also be helpful in preventing air loss from the valve as the pump is being removed. It is important that both fork legs have the same amount of air pressure. To set, fill the first leg to 5-10 psi over your desired setting. Then fill the second leg to the desired setting, and finally go back and re-set the first leg. We encourage experimentation with different preload air pressures as each rider has a unique style and preferences. SERVICE Regular Maintenance Schedule The following procedures are recommended as regular maintenance on a HeadShok Moto 120 fork: Oil change/bleeding: Every 15-20 hrs. of riding time Seal replacement—Oil Damper cartridge: As needed.Oil Damper cartridge seal replacement is indicated if excessive oil loss occurs. Some oil will always “weep” past the seals of the cartridge and leave a film on the piston shaft above and below the cartridge. However, if more oil than this film is getting past the seals, the seals should be replaced. If the cartridge’s damping characteristics change suddenly, the cartridge should be removed from the fork and the seals inspected for possible replacement. 3. Moto 120 8/25/98 3:51 PM Page 4 Stanchion/slider cleaning & lubrication: Every 3 months, or as needed. Cleaning and lubrication of the stanchion/ slider tubes is indicated if excessive friction or grittiness is felt in the suspension. Seal replacement - Stanchion tubes: As needed. Stanchion tube seal replacement is indicated if excessive amount of oil is noticed leaking down lower ends of the slider tubes, near the dropouts. This could be dangerous if oil gets onto the front brake rotor, braking power will be lost. Drop Cap Damping Dial Locknut Upper Piston Shaft Detail Below Some oil will always “weep” past the stanchion tube seals, leaving a thin film of oil on the slider tubes. This is normal. (In fact, the ring left by the seal wiper can be useful as an indication of how much suspension travel is being used.) If more than a thin film of oil is leaking, the fork should be disassembled and the stanchion tube seals replaced. Cartridge Body Oil Damper Cartridge service Cartridge removal. Release all air pressure from the fork by depressing the schraeder valves located at the dropouts. Bleeder Hole Top-out Spring (not shown) Top-out Bumper (MCU) Loosen the 3mm allen set screw located in the side of the Damping Dial and remove the dial from the top of the cartridge. Air Spring Spacer Tube Loosen the stanchion clamp bolt on the top crown nearest the cartridge. Using a pin spanner wrench (Park SPA-1, green), loosen top cap of the cartridge by turning it counter-clockwise. Compress fork while depressing the schraeder valves. The top cap and piston shaft will extend above the top of the stanchion tube, allowing access to the four notches in the top of the oil damper cartridge. Using a Cannondale “Castle” tool (part #104110), turn oil damper cartridge counter-clockwise and remove it from the fork. CAUTION: During this step, be very careful not to scratch or damage the piston shaft or the threads around the inside of the upper end of the slider tube with the Castle tool. When loosening or tightening a HeadShok cartridge, only use a Cannondale “Castle” tool (part #104110). Do not attempt to tighten or loosen the cartridge by the pin holes in the inner plastic cap. 4. Floating Air Piston (inside sliders) Upper Piston Shaft Inner Cap Piston Cartridge Body Compression Shims Rebound Shims Moto 120 8/25/98 3:51 PM Page 5 Cartridge Installation Clean the inner bore of the slider tube with a cloth. Clean threads on the cartridge and inside the upper end of the slider tube. Loosen the stanchion clamp bolt on the upper triple clamp next to where the cartridge is being installed. Apply some Loctite #222 (purple) to the threads on outside of oil damper cartridge, just below the flange. Insert cartridge into slider tube from top. Tighten cartridge into the slider tube with a Cannondale “Castle” tool (part #104110). CAUTION: During this step, be very careful not to scratch or damage the piston shaft or the threads around the inside of the upper end of the stanchion tube with the Castle tool. Wipe the threads around the inside of the top end of the stanchion tube clean. Apply some grease to the threads on the top cap. Tighten the top cap into the stanchion tube with a pin-spanner wrench (Park SPA-1, green). Tighten the stanchion clamp bolt on the top crown nearest the cartridge to 8 ft-lbs. Check to make sure the other stanchion clamp bolts are also tight. Turn the tuning shaft all the way clockwise, then back it out 1/4 turn. Pressurize the fork to 40 psi. Press down on the shock once or twice. Install the Damping Dial as per the instructions at the beginning of this manual. Top Cap Lock Nut Before the fork is ridden, the proper air pressure must be added. See the section on Air Spring Preload at the beginning of this manual. Upper Piston Shaft Dummy Cartridge service Cartridge removal Release all air pressure from the fork by depressing the schraeder valves located at the dropouts while compressing the fork. Loosen the stanchion clamp bolt on the top crown next to the Dummy cartridge. Using a pin-spanner wrench (Park SPA-1, green), loosen the top cap of the Dummy cartridge by turning it counter-clockwise. Compress fork. Pull top cap upwards so that the piston shaft extends above the top of the stanchion tube. Insert a Cannondale “Dummy” tool (part #104823) so that the four teeth of the tool engage the four slots in inner cap. Attach a pin-spanner wrench with inward-turning ends (Park SPA-3, blue) to the Dummy tool and turn counter-clockwise to unthread inner cap. When the inner cap is un-threaded, pull up on the top cap to remove the Dummy cartridge from the fork. CAUTION: During this step, be very careful not to scratch or damage the threads around the inside of the upper end of the slider tube with the Dummy tool. 5. Inner Cap Top-out Spring Top-out Bumper Cap Lower Piston Shaft Air Spring Spacer Tube Floating Air Piston (inside sliders) Moto 120 8/25/98 3:51 PM Page 6 Installation Clean the threads of the Dummy cartridge inner cap and around the inside of the top of the slider tube. Slide the Dummy cartridge assembly into the slider tube. Push down on the top cap of the cartridge while depressing the schraeder valve. (This will allow the air piston to go all the way to the bottom of the slider tube.) Apply some Loctite #222 (purple) to the threads of the inner cap. Thread the inner cap into the upper end of the slider tube with a Cannondale “Dummy” tool (part #104823) Be very careful, as it is easy to cross thread the inner cap. Apply some grease or anti-seize compound to threads of top cap. Thread top cap into stanchion tube and tighten with a pin-spanner wrench (Park SPA-1, green). Tighten stanchion clamp bolt on top crown nearest Dummy cartridge to 8 ft-lbs. Before the fork is ridden, the proper air pressure must be added. See the section on air pressure at the beginning of this manual. Service to air springs The Moto fork has one air spring located in the lower end of each slider tube. These air springs consist of a cylinder (the inner bore of the slider tube), a schraeder valve, and a sliding piston. The air springs should require no regular service. However, if any dirt or debris is introduced into the air cylinder, the Oring seals on the piston could become damaged, resulting in an air leak. If this happens, the seals on the piston can be changed. Piston seal O-rings are available from Cannondale (part #104692). WARNING: Protect your eyes from oil spray and debris. Wear safety glasses during this procedure! It is also recommended to wear an apron to protect clothes. Remove the cartridge in the affected fork leg as described above. With a long wooden or plastic (not metal) dowel, push down on the air piston to make sure that the seals are not sticking. Hold a cloth over the open end of the stanchion tube. Attach a pump to the schraeder valve and pressurize slowly until the air piston pops out of the slider tube. Danger! The piston can act as a projectile. Keep your face away from the open end of the stanchion during this step. Remove the O-rings from the air piston, being very careful not to scratch the piston in the process. Pack some grease into the O-ring slots in the piston. Install the O-rings onto the piston. Make sure the O-rings are not twisted. Pack some more grease onto the O-rings. (The grease not only protects the O-rings and reduces friction, but it also improves the integrity of the air seal.) Pack threads around the inside of the upper end of the slider tube with grease. Insert the piston into the slider tube. Be very careful not to damage the O-rings on the threads around the inside of the slider tube. Once piston is past the threads, push it down into slider tube as far as possible. Drop some light oil (enough to coat the inside of the slider tube) into slider tube. 6. Moto 120 8/25/98 3:51 PM Page 7 Clean any remaining grease out of the threads around the inside of the slider tube and install the cartridge as described above. Oil change/bleeding WARNING: Protect your eyes from oil spray and debris. Wear safety glasses during this procedure! It is also recommended to wear an apron to protect clothing. IMPORTANT! Whenever working on the internal mechanisms of a Moto cartridge, make sure your work area is clean and free of dirt and debris. Even a small bit of dirt in the hydraulic mechanism can cause the cartridge to malfunction. Remove the cartridge from the fork as described above. Separate the air spring spacer tube from the top-out plunger. Using two cone wrenches, unthread top-out plunger from the lower piston shaft. Pull the top-out spring off of the lower cap. Hold oil damper cartridge over a tub or bucket (to catch oil.) Using a pin spanner wrench with inward-turned tips (Park SPA-3, blue) remove lower cap from oil damper cartridge as shown. As cap is removed, oil will drain from the cartridge. Turn cartridge upright over the tub. With a small screwdriver, turn tuning shaft all the way clockwise, and then back 1/2 turn counter-clockwise. Stroke piston up and down several times to expel any oil that may be trapped above piston. Extend the cartridge (so that the top cap is extended away from the top of the cartridge body.) Turn the cartridge upside down, and fill to the top with CODA Mountain AfterShok suspension oil. (See footnote on oil weights.) With the tuning shaft still turned 1/2 turn counter-clockwise, stroke the piston up and down several times very slowly to expel any air that may be trapped above the piston. (You may see air bubbles rise to the top of the oil.) If the oil level drops significantly, add more oil as needed. Make sure you do not let the piston come above the level of the oil as it is being stroked. Still holding the cartridge upside down, compress it about 1”. Gently turn the tuning shaft clockwise until it is seated. (don’t force the shaft tight.) Hold the cartridge under a table or workbench, with the end of the piston shaft up against the underside of the tabletop. With one firm motion, push cartridge body toward the underside of the tabletop, forcing the piston to its fully extended position. (This will force the rebound shims to open and release any trapped air.) With the cartridge now in its fully extended position, turn the tuning shaft 1/2 turn counterclockwise. Compress the cartridge about 1”, and repeat this procedure several times to remove all air from the valves. When finished, leave the tuning shaft backed out 1/2 turn (counter-clockwise.) Note: At this point, if oil appears to have some air suspended in it (tiny, frothy bubbles hanging in the oil), then set the cartridge aside for a few minutes in the fully extended position to let the air rise to the top of the oil. With a small screwdriver or a knife, pry the small brass brad out of the lower cap. Save the brad. Fill the cartridge all the way to the edge with oil. With the cartridge partially compressed, carefully work the lower cap onto the piston shaft. (It is a tight fit.) Make sure the cap can slide up and down on the 7. Moto 120 8/25/98 3:51 PM Page 8 piston shaft without binding. If the cap binds up or is difficult to move, it could be that one of the seals is folded over or damaged. Remove the lower cap and inspect the seals within. Begin to thread the lower cap into the oil damper cartridge. Once the threads have caught, lean the cartridge over so that the small bleeder hole in the bottom cap (the one that the small brass brad came out of) is positioned at the top. Hold the lower cap in this position and tighten by turning the cartridge body (rather than turning the cap.) A mixture of air and oil will bleed from the vent hole as the cartridge is being tightened. Finish tightening the cap with an inward-turning pin-spanner wrench (Park SPA-3, blue). NOTE: During this stage of assembly, it is imperative that the cartridge is not compressed at all. If the piston shaft is moved in (or out) before the brass brad is in place, air will be introduced into the system, and the bleeding procedure must be repeated. Insert the brass brad (nail) into the vent hole. Turn the tuning shaft all the way clockwise and then back out 1/4 turn. Cycle the cartridge several times with the tuning shaft in this position, listening for “squishy” sounds (air passing through the valves.) A properly bled shock will make some slight noises or none at all. If shock makes loud air noises, or if the action of the piston does not feel smooth and silky, repeat the bleed procedure. Push top-out spring back onto lower cap. Make sure spring does not contact the piston shaft as it could scratch the surface of the shaft and cause an oil leak. Apply some Loctite #222 (purple) to the threads on the top-out plunger. Tighten the plunger into the lower piston shaft. Note on suspension oils:The HeadShok Moto cartridge is shipped from the factory filled with 5W oil. If desired, a lighter weight oil (as light as 2.5W) may be used to provide quicker, lighter damping. Likewise, a heavier oil (up to 10W) may be used to provide heavier damping. For best results, use CODA Mountain AfterShok suspension fork oil. Stanchion/slider tube lubrication Remove the front wheel. Remove both cartridges from the fork. See the sections of this manual regarding Oil Damper cartridge and Dummy cartridge removal. Pull the slider tubes out of the stanchion tubes. Clean the insides of the stanchion tubes thoroughly. Drop some oil (enough to cover the piston) into the slider tube. Slide the piston up and down in the slider tube to allow the oil to coat the inside of the slider. This oil will not only reduce the friction of the piston, but will also improve the quality of the air seal. Slide the slider tubes back up into the stanchions so that the top of the slider tube is fully past the upper stanchion bushing. Replace cartridge thread O-rings (located just above inner steerer tube threads on both cartridges) on both cartridges. Apply a drop of Loctite #242 (purple) to the threads on the Oil Damper cartridge body and the Inner Cap of the Dummy 8. Moto 120 8/25/98 3:51 PM Page 9 cartridge. Install the Oil Damper cartridge and Dummy cartridge into their respective slider tubes. Do not thread the top caps into the stanchion tubes yet. Drop some oil down into the stanchion tube, covering upper stanchion bushing. Complete the installation of the cartridges by tightening the top caps and installing the Damping Dial. Reinstall the front wheel. The oil will slowly work its way past the upper bushing and lubricate the lower bushing and stanchion seal. CUSTOMIZING THE MOTO SUSPENSION FORK Adjusting The High-Speed Damping HIGH-SPEED DAMPING SHIMS The term “high-speed damping” refers to the damping circuit that controls the suspension fork when it compresses very quickly and with great force; like when the rider hits a large bump at high speed. There are two separate high-speed damping circuits in the Moto cartridge: one for compression, one for rebound. The damping rates of the high-speed circuits are adjustable by changing the amount and/or thickness of the adjusting shims. There is one set of adjusting shims for each of these high-speed damping circuits. These shim stacks are adjustable independently, so the fork may be set up with very heavy compression damping and light rebound damping, viceversa, or any combination in between. O-ring Shoulder Upper Piston Connector Compression Shims In general, thicker shims give a heavier damping rate than thinner ones, and shims with a larger outside diameter give a heavier damping rate than shims with a smaller outside diameter. Piston Rebound Shims The shims cover ports in the oil piston. When the pressure below the piston is increased dramatically (as in a high-speed compression), the increased oil pressure forces the compression shims to deform slightly to allow oil to pass through the compression ports. Likewise, when the pressure above the piston increases dramatically, it forces the rebound shims to deform, allowing oil to pass through the re-bound ports in the piston. Lower Piston Connector 9. Moto 120 8/25/98 3:51 PM Page 10 SHIM SELECTION The Two Commandments of Shim Selection: 1. You must always have an 18mm diameter shim against the piston on both the compression and rebound sides. This 18mm shim may be .004” or .006”, and may be backed up by any combination of other shims, but there must be an 18mm shim covering the ports in the piston, or else the high-speed damping circuit will not function. 2. You must always have a total shim stack thickness of at least .030” In other words, when the thicknesses of all the shims in the cartridge are added up, the total must come to at least .030”. If you desire a very light damping shim stack, and it does not total .030” in thickness, there is a 12mm diameter, .010” shim available that may be used as a spacer. (It does almost nothing to supplement the damping of the other shims. It is only to be used as a spacer.) When the cartridge comes from the factory, it has the following shims installed on the compression damping side of the oil piston: (1) 18mm x .006” (1) 14mm x .006” and on the rebound damping side: (1) 18mm x .006” (1) 16mm x .006” (1) 14mm x .006” To change the damping characteristics of a Moto cartridge, you can change the diameter, thickness, and/or number of damping control shims in the cartridge. Here’s a few examples: If you would like to increase the level of damping in the high-speed rebound circuit, you could change one or more of the shims in the stack to a larger diameter: e.g: (1) 18mm x .006” (2) 16mm x .006” Or you could add to the number of shims in the stack: e.g: (1) 18mm x .006” (2) 16mm x .006” (1) 14mm x .006” Likewise, to reduce the level of damping, you could change one or more of the shims in the stack for a thinner shim: e.g: (1) 18mm x .004” (1) 16mm x .006” (1) 14mm x .004” Or change to smaller diameter shims: e.g: (1) 18mm x .006” (2) 14mm x .006” Remember that compression and rebound damping may be adjusted independently. (Rebound stacks are used for examples. The same guidelines apply to compression shims.) There are many possible combinations of damping control shims. We encourage our dealers and customers to experiment with different combinations of damping 10. Moto 120 8/25/98 3:51 PM Page 11 control shims until finding the setup that best suits their riding style. It may take some time, and several shim changes before the right combination is discovered, but once this is accomplished, the fork will be customized beyond the capabilities of any other suspension fork on the market. SHIM AVAILABILITY Shims are available in the following sizes: O.D. Thickness 12mm .010” 14mm 16mm 18mm .004” .004” .004” 14mm .006” 16mm .006” 18mm .006” (all shims have an inside diameter Part Number 104167 (bag of ten) 104168 (bag of ten) 104169 (bag of ten) 104170 (bag of ten) 104171 (bag of ten) 104172 (bag of ten) 104173 (bag of ten) of 8mm) A kit is available that includes ten of each of the different shims. We recommend that each shop order one of these kits to start with, and replenish their supply of shims as needed. The product code for the kit is FATSHIM/. SHIM REPLACEMENT WARNING: Protect your eyes from oil spray and debris. Wear safety glasses during this procedure! It is also recommended to wear an apron to protect clothing. IMPORTANT! Whenever working on the internal mechanisms of a Moto cartridge, make sure your work area is clean and free of dirt and debris. Even a small bit of dirt in the hydraulic mechanism can cause the cartridge to malfunction. To change shims in a Moto cartridge, begin by removing cartridge from the suspension fork. Complete steps 1-6 of Oil change/Bleeding section of this manual. Use a Park SPA-1 (green) pin-spanner wrench to remove the upper cap from the cartridge body. Slide the cartridge body off of the piston shaft. Hold the locknut just below the top cap with a 19mm cone wrench while turning the lower section of the piston shaft with a 12mm wrench. The two halves of the piston shaft will unthread and separate at the piston. Note the orientation of the piston as it is originally assembled. There are larger relief slots cut into one side of the piston than the other. When correctly assembled, the side with the larger slots should be facing down; towards the bottom of the cartridge. Select shims as needed to tune high speed damping. Use the following guidelines for shim selection. Once the desired shims are selected, make sure they are clean and completely free of dirt or grit before they are installed. Even one small piece of debris caught between shims will cause system to malfunction. Locate the shoulder on the upper piston shaft, just above the threads on the lower end of the shaft. Stack the shims on this shoulder, starting with the smallest diameter shim and finishing with the largest (18mm) shim oriented towards the threaded end of the piston shaft. 11. Moto 120 8/25/98 3:51 PM Page 12 Place the rebound shim stack on the shoulder on the end of the lower piston shaft in the same manner, with the largest (18mm) shim oriented toward the end of the shoulder. Slip the piston onto the upper piston shaft with the smaller slots oriented toward the compression shim stack (on the upper piston shaft.) The piston should seat on the shoulder just above the threads. Place a small amount of Loctite #222 (purple) to the threads on the upper piston shaft. Thread the two halves of the piston shaft together and tighten securely. Make sure that none of the shims slip off of their shoulders and get caught in the threads of the piston shaft during tightening. Once the piston shaft is tightened together, hold the assembly up to a light, checking to make sure the shims are all laying flat against the piston and each other. If there are any gaps between shims, there may be a piece of dirt between shims (disassemble and clean) or a shim may be bent (requiring replacement.) Slip the cartridge body onto the piston shaft, being careful not to damage the Oring seal on the piston. Thread the upper cap into the cartridge body and tighten snugly. Note: Do not overtighten the upper cap! Overtightening the upper cap will result in binding of the cartridge and unresponsive suspension action. Go to step 6 of the Oil change/Bleeding section of this manual to complete the cartridge assembly. Notes on customization Both legs of the Moto fork are identical, so the damper cartridge may be installed in either leg. A left-handed rider may wish to install the damper cartridge in the left leg for easier access to the damping dial. Cannondale Warranty Your HeadShok fork is warrantied against manufacturing defects in materials and /or workmanship for a period of one year from the date of purchase. Not covered under warranty is damage resulting from improper adjustment or maintenance, lack of maintenance, crashes, alterations, or use judged by Cannondale to be excessive or abusive. For warranty-related questions, or for technical assistance with any of the procedures in this booklet, contact Cannondale at one of the numbers listed below. U.S. and Canada: 800-726-2453 Europe (EC): (31) 5415-89898 Japan: (81) 7821-56-5770 Australia: (61) 997-95851 Other countries: Please contact your local Cannondale distributor. E-mail: [email protected] Internet: http://www.cannondale.com ® cannondale TCS 8/16/96 © Cannondale Corporation, 1996