Transcript
OWNER'S MANUAL
www.creon.bike
INTRODUCTION Frame parts identification Other parts identification Basic riding safety Security
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ADJUSTMENT Before the first ride Seat angle/height Front-to-back seat position Handlebar height Handlebar adjustment
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USE Brakes Gearing: Internal (hub gear) External (derailleur) Riding safety After the first ride
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MAINTENANCE Routine checks and lubrication Cleaning and storage Lubrication Recommended torque table Pedals Adjusting the chain tension Brakes: Adjusting the brakes Adjusting and replacing the brake pads Caliper and cantilever brakes Mechanical disc brakes Hydraulic disc brakes Hub brakes Gearing Wheels and tires Crankset Shock absorbers
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Dear Customer, Thank you for putting your trust in us and choosing a Creon bicycle. We hope that you will find this high-quality state-of-the-art bike not only practical and comfortable, but also a source of joy and satisfaction. In order to ensure proper bicycle use, adjustment and maintenance, please read this Owner's Manual as it can allow trouble-free use for many years.
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FRAME PARTS IDENTIFICATION
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OTHER PARTS IDENTIFICATION
A Seatstay
H Dropouts
B Seatstay bridge
I
Chain stay
C Seat tube
J
Bottom bracket shell
D Top tube
K Down tube
E Steerer tube
L Fork blade
F Head tube
M Brake pivots
G Fork crown
N Front fork-ends
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A Freewheel / cassette
K Hub
B Rear brake
L Safety reflectors
C Seatpost clamp
M Hub
D Seat
N Rear gearing
E Seatpost
O Chain
F Stem
P Pedal
G Handlebar
Q Crank arm
H Shifting levers
R Front gearing
I
Brake lever
S Valve stem
J
Front brake
T Tire U Rim
1. When you decide to ride a bicycle, you assume the risk of contusion or injury associated with the sport and the liability for any consequences of such risk. 2. Always observe traffic laws and regulations that apply on public roads. 3. Safety reflectors, light-colored clothing with reflective panels and a helmet enhance on-the-road visibility and general safety.
SECURITY Never leave you bicycle unlocked in a public place. To deter potential theft, use robust padlocks or chains which are resistant to metal cutters. Always fasten your bicycle by passing the lock through the frame and the rear wheel and around a fixed object, e.g. a pole. Take easily detachableelements, e.g. lights, with you. Never leave your bicycle in a dark and isolated place, where potential thieves may have more time to work.
4. Be aware of decreased braking and steering performance and exercise extreme caution when riding in wet and slippery conditions. 5. Use the bicycle for its intended purpose only. Equipment damage resulting from improper use shall be the sole responsibility of the user and it may void the entire warranty. 6. When in use, the bicycle is subject to wear and considerable stress. Different bicycle parts and the materials they are made of may react differently to those processes. Any cracks, scratches or discoloration may indicate wear, and it is recommended the affected part be replaced. A worn part may become damaged and lead to injury to the rider. 7. Always use certified equipment, e.g. a child safety seat, a trailer, etc., to carry children. 8. As a parent or guardian, you bear the responsibility for the safety of your minor child. Therefore, before your child gets on the bike, make sure that: • the bicycle is fitted to the child's height, is in good operating condition and will be used for its intended purpose only • you and your child know and understand how the bicycle works and can operate it safely. 9. All bicycles should be periodically inspected by professional technicians. Read the Owner's Manual and learn the bicycle components.
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BASIC RIDING SAFETY
ADJUSTMENT
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BEFORE THE FIRST RIDE It is important that your bicycle is fitted to you not only forriding ease, but also for proper maneuverability and safety. Usually stores fit bicycles to their customers' needs, but minor adjustments may still be necessary. The best riding position is one in which you feel the most comfort and proper balance. In order to achieve it, you first need to adjust the seat height and angle, and then the handlebar and stem as shown below. NOTE: Both the handlebar stem and the seatpost have a maximum extension notch on one side. Never raise the seat or the handlebar beyond the maximum height.
Hex bolt
Clamp with a hex bolt
Seat rails
Seat rails
Standard bolts
SEAT HEIGHT
Limit notches
To determine the correct height, sit on the seat with one leg completely straightened. Your heels (in flat shoes) should be slightly touching the pedals when they are in the down-most position. When riding, place the balls of your feet on the pedals — the knee should be slightly bent when the respective pedal is in the down-most position. The handlebar stem should be more or less at the same heightas the seat or slightly lower.
NEVER EXTEND BEYOND THE LIMIT NOTCH
SEAT ANGLE Before adjusting the seatpost height, set the seat at the correct angle. First loosen the 6 mm hex bolt or one of the two 13 mm hex nuts on the bottom side of the seat. You do not need to remove them. Once they have been loosened enough, the seat can be adjusted on the seatpost by degrees. Set the seat as horizontally as possible and then tighten the seat clamp bolts.
Knees slightly bent
Pedal in the bottom position
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Loosen the seat on the seatpost to enable front-to-back seat adjustment. With the correct position set, tighten the seat.
Adjustthe front-to-back position of the seat so that your knee is directly above the pedal when the crank arm is set parallel to the ground.
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The height can be adjusted by loosening the seat tube clamp –in models witha screw-in seat pin, slightly spread the halves of the clamp holding the pin in order to prevent it from being scratched. Set the correct seat height, with the seat nose pointing directly at the head tube. Tighten the clamp with the correct torque.
Some models have a quick-release seat clamp. Unlock the quick-release lever to set the correct seat height, with the seat nose pointing directly at the head tube. With the quick-release lever at a 180° anglein relation to the illustrated, fully-closed position, tighten the nut securely. Lock (close) the lever. If you can still move the seat, open the quick-release lever and tighten the clamp nut a bit more. Close the lever and repeat the above steps until the seat is firmly locked in place.
FRONT-TO-BACK SEAT POSITION When the ball of your foot is on the pedal and the crank arms are parallel to the ground, the seat should be positioned (front-to-back) so that the pedal spindle is directly belowthe knee-joint. This can be achieved through loosening the seat clamp as described in the "Seat angle" section. Adjust the front-to-back position of the seat so that your knee is directly above the pedal when the crank arm is set parallel to the ground. WARNING: Always make sure that the seat clamp rests on parallel sections of the seat rails.
Even slight changes in the seat position may considerably affect riding performance and comfort. Therefore, when adjusting the seat position, apply one directional change at a time and remember to do itin small steps until you reach a point where you feel the most comfort.
HANDLEBAR HEIGHT The handlebar should be positioned so as to allow easy and comfortable access to the shifters and brake levers. During riding, your body weight should be balanced so that your hands can effortlessly rest on the handlebar. This will prevent strain on your wrists and forearms during pedaling. If you change the riding position set-up, remember to tighten all the boltsand nuts afterwards. WARNING: Never extend the handlebar stem beyond the limit notch
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Stem expander bolt
Stem fixing bolt
USE Before the first ride, dedicate some time to reading this section and familiarizing yourself with the bicycle controls
Stem
BRAKES
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The left and the right brake levers actuate the front and the rear brake respectively. In order to ensure good braking performance, use both brakes, always applying the rear one slightly earlier than the front one. Pull the levers gently to achieve the desired braking rate.
HANDLEBAR ADJUSTMENT Use a 6 mm hex key to loosen the stem expander bolt by 2 or 3 turns. Gently tap the upper part of the bolt to loosen the connection and enable the extension/insertion of the stem. Once you have set the desirable stem height, adjust the handlebar in relation to the front wheel and tighten the stem expander bolt with the proper torque. Your bicycle may have the latest adjustable stem model, which allows additional position adjustment. In such case, you can adjust the stem angle up or down, following the tilt angle on a dedicated scale. You can adjust the stem height and angle at the same time, first moderately loosening the expander bolt. Remember to tighten all the bolts/nuts with their respective torques each time you change the set-up. The handlebar should be set so as to ensure the most comfortable riding position. Your wrists are a good indicator of that — if they feel comfortable during normal cycling, the handlebar is positioned correctly. The part of the handlebarwith grips should be parallel to the ground. You can adjust it by loosening the 6 mm stem fixing bolt with a hex key by 2 or 3 turns, then positioning the handlebar properly, and finally tightening it back again.
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NOTE: Do not apply the front brake with too much force or you may be pitched over the handlebar. Pull both brake levers gently to avoid skidding — especially in wet or slippery conditions. Be extra careful when going down a steep slope or riding in wet conditions, which can increase braking distance
GEARING Bicycle gearing enables the rider to maintain an even cadence (or pedaling rate). Try to exert even pressure on the pedals and keep an even rate, regardless of whether you are riding downhill, uphill or against the wind.
INTERNAL GEARING (HUB)
This is definitely the simplest transmission mechanism. You can shift gears while pedaling or riding without pedaling, or at a stop. You can select any gear at any moment.
Shifting gears
The lower the number on the handlebar-mounted shifter, the easier it is to pedal. Always select a low gear when starting to pedal from 0 speed. To shift gears when riding, simply reduce the pressure on the pedals and select the desired gear number.
EXTERNAL GEARING (DERAILLEURS)
This system requires more attention during shifting. You can shift gears only when pedaling forward. The left shifter actuates the front derailleur, the right shifter the rear one. The rear derailleur allows gradual, steady shifting, whereas the front one enables a greater gear ratio.
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Rear sprockets
Crankset
NOTE: Never select extreme opposite front and rear gears. This will cause rapid wear of the sprockets and the chain. Shifting gears The bicycle features state-of-the-art gear shifting mechanisms: twist shifters, "RapidFire" shifters or shifting levers. They are designed to make gear shifting as simple as possible. In order to shift gears, simply reduce the pressure on the pedals and select the desired gear number. Sprockets need to be selected consecutively, and the derailleur must be given time to perform each shift before the next sprocket is selected. Avoid shifting front and rear gears at the same time.
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System
Left shifter
Right shifter
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Twist shifter To make pedaling harder
To make pedaling easier To make pedaling harder
To make pedaling easier
"RapidFire" shifters
To make pedaling easier
To make pedaling easier
To make pedaling harder
Shifting levers
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To make pedaling harder
To make pedaling easier
To make pedaling harder
To make pedaling harder
To make pedaling easier
Note: Riding in wet conditions
Before each ride, check whether your bicycle is in good operating condition. Especially ensure the following: • Nuts, bolts and other parts are tightened and not worn or damaged; • The riding position fits the rider; • The brakes are properly adjusted and operational; • The steering can be operated effortlessly without play; • The wheels turn without knocking and do not rub the brake linings; • The wheels are properly secured and fastened to the frame and the fork; • The tires are in good condition and the tire pressure is at the right level; • The pedals are securely fastened to the crank arms; • The gearing is correctly adjusted; • All the safety reflectors and lights are in place and operational.
There do not exist brakes that can deliver the same performance in wet or icy conditions as in dry conditions. Take special precautions in wet conditions to ensure braking to a safe stop. Ride more slowly than usual and apply the brakes well in advance.
When riding • Always obey traffic regulations. • Always use clear hand signals to indicate turning in time to advertise your intent to others. • Beware of vehicles joining or leaving the traffic and of opening car doors. • Always keep your both hands on the handlebar and both feet on the pedals. Also always maintain the correct riding position on the seat. • Wear a helmet and proper, close-fitting riding attire that will not get caught by moving elements or by objects on the roadside. • Adjust speed to road conditions and exercise extra caution on uneven surfaces, loose sand or gravel. Stay alert and avoid potholes, manholes and drains, or other road hazards. Illegal behavior • Never ride in wrong direction. • Never carry passengers unless the bicycle is equipped for that purpose. • Do not turn rapidly when entering or leaving the lane. • Do not hang anything on the handlebar — it could impair steering or get caught in the front wheel spokes. • Do not take hold of other vehicles. • Do not follow other vehicles too closely.
Note: Night riding We recommend night riding be kept to a minimum. If you have to ride by night, observe the applicable laws and use head (white) and tail (red) lights in addition to the safety reflectors mounted on the bicycle. To further enhance safety, wear bright clothing with reflective bands. Ensure that the lights and reflectors are securely fastened in the correct position as well as being clean and visible. Replace damaged lights or reflectors immediately.
AFTER THE FIRST FEW RIDES All your new bicycle's nuts, bolts and cables may become a bit loosened during the first few rides. It may be necessary to readjust some of the gears and brakes if the cables have become stretched. We recommend that you take the bicycle to your local dealer in order to have all the cables immediately inspected and adjusted. In particular ensure the following: • • • • •
The brakes are properly adjusted; The seatpost clamp and the seat clamp are securely tightened; The stem fixing bolt and the stem expander bolt are securely tightened; The gearing is correctly adjusted; The crank arm bolts are securely tightened.
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RIDING SAFETY
MAINTENANCE ROUTINE CHECKS AND LUBRICATION
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Every 6 months Remove, clean and lubricate the chain, the gears and all the cables. Check and replace them if necessary.
Headset Remove, clean and lubricate the bearings once a year and replace them if necessary.
Stem bolt nut Ensure the stem bolt is tightened.
Handlebar Check if the handlebar bolt is tightened. Check if the brake levers are securely attached to the handlebar and if the brakes stop the bicycle smoothly and effectively.
Seat and seatpost nuts Ensure the nuts are tightened.
Brakes Oil the visible sections of the cables moderately. While keeping the brakes positioned as are, replace any worn brake pads or frayed brake cables.
Lights and safety reflectors (rear and front) Ensure that the lights and safety reflectors are securely attached and undamaged. Replace if necessary.
Gearing Front and rear gearing – oil the moving parts moderately. Check, if the gearing is properly adjusted.
Tires Check for cuts and wear. Maintain the pressure level indicated on the sidewall to ensure optimum riding performance.
Safety reflectors Check them once a month. Proper fastening.
Chain Oil it a bit every week; clean and lubricate every 6 months. Wheels Ensure the axles are securely locked. The rims must be free of wax, oil, grease or adhesives. Check if no spokes are loosened or missing.
Bottom bracket shell Clean, lubricate and check for wear once a year.
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Wheel hubs Lubricate the bearings once a month. Adjust the conical bolts to avoid any sideways play of the wheel.
Pedals Lubricate the bearings moderately once a month
Crank arms Once a month check if the axle bolts are tightened. Check for play in the bottom bracket shell.
Note: Once a week clean the bicycle with warm water with a bit of detergent added. Use a soft cloth to wipe it dry.
CLEANING AND STORAGE
RECOMMENDED TORQUE TABLE
In order to maintain the bicycle in good operating condition, it is important to properly service all the moving parts and keep them free of any dirt.
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Use hot water with soap added to wash off dirt and then wipe the bicycle dry with a clean cloth. Warning: Never use solvents to clean the rims — it could render the brakes inoperative. Never clean the bicycle with a high-pressure water jet. If you do not ride your bicycle often or you want to store it for a longer period, follow these simple guidelines to keep itin good condition. • First, ensure the bicycle is clean and dry. • Lubricate all the elements as per the "Routine checks and lubrication" guidelines. • Always store the bicycle in a dry, covered space or in a garage. • Ensure the tires are slightly inflated.
LUBRICATION After cleaning and before storing your bicycle for a longer period it is importantthat you lubricate it. Always use mineral or dry lubricants; avoid using vegetable oil. Also avoid excessive lubrication as it increases dirt accumulation. Lubricate all the elements indicated in the "Routine checks and lubrication" section
DESCRIPTION
TORQUE
1. Rear and front light fixing nut 2. Seatpost clamp bolt 3. Seatpost yoke bolt 4. Front gearing fastening 5. Stem expander bolt 6. Stem fixing bolt 7. Brake fixing bolt 8. Rear axle nut Rear quick-release axle 9. Rear gearing cable fixing bolt 10. Front gearing cable fixing bolt 11. Pedals 12. Axle end lock bolt 13. Front axle locknut Front quick-release axle
3 Nm 8 Nm 20 Nm 5,5 Nm 20 Nm 15 Nm 5 Nm /5 Nm 30 Nm 5 Nm 4 Nm 4 Nm 40 Nm 38 Nm 30 Nm 5 Nm
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PEDALS
ADJUSTING THE CHAIN TENSION
Attaching the pedals Note: left and right side references are based on the rider's perspective when he or she is in the riding position.
Maintain the chain well lubricated. Once in a while have the chain removed and cleaned with a solvent by a professional technician.
Most pedals have right- or left-handed threads, which prevents them from loosening during riding. Left pedals have left-handed threads and are marked with the letter "L" on the spindle. Right pedals have right-handed threads and are marked with the letter "R". If a pedal is unmarked, its thread handedness can be determined by trial and error. LH threads are tightened ccw, RH ones cw. Before installation, lubricate the threads. Tighten the left pedal by turning it ccw and the right one by turning it cw. We recommend a 40 Nm torque. Important: Tighten the pedals securely. A loose pedal will irreparably damage the thread and consequently the crank arm, posing potential risk to the rider. NEVER RIDE A BICYCLE WITH LOOSE PEDALS! If the chain is not working properly, this may be due to a stiff link. Locate the stiff link and bend the chainone way and the other to loosen the link. RIGHT-HANDED LEFT Counterclockwise
LEFT-HANDED
PRIGHT Clockwise
Maintain the correct chain tension with about 12 mm (0.5 in) travel in the middle. (Fixed-gear bicycles only).
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If the chain is worn or tensioned incorrectly, it can break or fall off, causing risk to the rider. If your bicycle features derailleurs, you do not need to adjust the chain tension as the rear derailleur will do it for you (if properly maintained). If you have a hub gear bicycle,follow these instructions:
Caliper brake
Cantilever brake
V-Brake
Hub brake
Mechanical disc brakes
Hydraulic disc brakes
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• Turn the bicycle upside down and remove the rear wheel fixing bolts. • Move the wheel backwards until the chain is properly tensioned. • Make sure that the rear wheel is positioned correctly. • Secure the wheel nuts with the torque specified in the „Recommended Torque Table."
A B A=B
BRAKES Your bicycle features one or two of the following six braking systems: caliper brakes (rim brake), cantilever brakes, V-brakes, hub brakes, mechanical disc brakes or hydraulic disc brakes. Regardless of the particular type, it is essential that the brakes be correctly adjusted. Your bicycle should be properly set up by your dealer, but since cables tend to get stretched, check the adjustment after your first ride. Before each ride, check if the brakes are properly adjusted.
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ADJUSTING THE BRAKES
ADJUSTING AND REPLACING THE BRAKE PADS
Always perform the following checks: 1. Both brakes must operate smoothly without jerking or jamming. 2. Check the brake pads for excessive wear — if water-draining grooves are no longer discernible, replace the pads. 3. Both wheels must turn freely without the brakes rubbing against the rims or tires. 4. The brake levers must not touch the handlebar when squeezed to the maximum. When a brake lever is squeezed to the maximum, there should be a large enough gap left to put your thumb between the lever and the handlebar. If that cannot be done, the brake pads need to be replaced or the brake cable tension increased. 5. Have all frayed cables replaced immediately by a professional technician. 6. Oil in the hydraulic braking system must be at a sufficient level. 7. There are no oil leaks.
(not applicable to hub brakes) If the brake pads need to be replaced or are not set properly in relation to the rim, replace or adjust them according to the following instructions. Open the brake lever (only for caliper brakes) or loosen the cable adjuster (see the relevant braking system description). This will allow better access to the brake pads. Use a 5 mm hex key or a 5 mm and a 10 mm hex key together to remove or loosen the brake pad nut. Replace the pads if necessary. Always replace both brake pads. It is necessary that new pads are set correctly as per the "Adjusting the brakes" section. NOTE: Remember to close the quick-release lever and adjust the cable tension according to the relevant braking system description.
Before making adjustments to any braking system, make sure that the brake pads are positioned correctly in relation to the wheel rim braking surface. A brake pad must not touch the tire in any place. The gap between the pads and the rim should be within a 1.5–3 mm range and should be equal on both sides. Quick-release lever Brake pad titled to the front of the bike
Alignment screw
Open
Rotational direction of the rim
Tire
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Brake pad
Rim
Approx. 0.5–1mm gap
Closed
Adjusting the caliper brake cable tension As the brake cable becomes stretched and the brake pads become worn, it may be necessary to adjust the cable tension once in a while. In order to adjust the brake cable tension, simply turn
Outer barrel adjuster a Loosen the lock ring by turning it ccw. b Turn the barrel adjuster ccw until you have set the right gap.
In order to center the rim between the brake pads, simply turn the alignment screw cw or ccw until the gap on both sides of the rim is the same. Ring
c Tighten the lock ring by turning it cw.
Once you have completed the adjustment procedure, check if the gap between the pads and the rim is equal on both sides and if the wheels turn freely without rubbing against anything. In order to center the rim between the brake pads, simply turn the alignment screw cw or ccw until the gap on both sides of the rim is the same.
Adjusting the cantilever brake cable As the brake cable becomes stretched and the brake pads become worn, it may be necessary to adjust the cable tension once in a while. In order to adjust the cable tension, simply hold the brake shoes in the right position and rotate the cable tension barrel adjuster by a few turns at a time. Let go of the brake shoes and check the gap between the brake pads and the rim. If necessary, repeat the above steps until you have set the right gap between the pads and the rim as described in the "Adjusting the brake pads" section.
Adjustment screw Adjusting the V-brake cable As the brake cable becomes stretched and the brake pads become worn, it may be necessary to adjust the cable tension once in a while. In order to adjust the cable tension, simply hold the brake elements which are connected with the cable (V-shaped). in the right position and rotate the cable tension barrel adjuster by a few turns at a time. Let go of the brake shoes and check the gap between the brake pads and the rim. If necessary, repeat the above steps until you have set the right gap between the pads and the rim as described in the "Adjusting the brake pads" section.
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the barrel adjuster ccw until you have set the right distance between the brake pad and the rim as shown in the "Adjusting the brake pads" section. Once you have completed the adjustment procedure, check if the gap between the pads and the rim is equal on both sides and if the wheels turn freely without rubbing against anything.
a Loosen the lock ring by turning it ccw. b Turn the barrel adjuster ccw until you have set the right gap. c Tighten the lock ring by turning it cw.
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Use the adjustment screws to align the cable tensioning spring.
Lever fixing bolt Spring tension adjustment screw
Spring tension adjustment screw
Main Inner pin
Once you have completed the adjustment procedure, check if the gap between the pads and the rim is equal on both sides and if the wheels turn freely without rubbing against anything.
Once you have set the desirable brake ever distance, use the adjustment screw to center the brake caliper on the disc. Check if the wheel rotates freely and if the brake pads are aligned and at the same distance from the disc on both sides.
In order to center the rim between the brake pads, simply turn the alignment screw cw or ccw until the gap on both sides of the rim is the same.
MECHANICAL DISC BRAKES
Adjustment screw
Lever movement adjustment and brake pad wear Use the adjuster on the handlebar to set the right lever activation distance. By loosening the adjuster, you will decrease the lever activation distance. By tightening the adjuster, you will increase the lever activation distance. If the distance is too great after the adjuster has been completely loosened (which will affect the braking force), take the following steps: Retighten the adjuster until you feel resistance in the lever assembly. Place a 2.5 mm hex key in the hole in the lever fixing bolt and tighten the inner pin cw. With each turn of the key, the outer cartridge moves forward by about 0.8 mm. Squeeze the brake lever a few times.
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Repeat the above steps when the brake cartridges have become so worn that the brake lever activation distance has increased. System break-in A disc braking system requires a break-in period before it is able to deliver the highest performance. During this period, you may hear noise caused by slight friction between the pads and the disc.
Check the pads for wear In order to maintain good braking performance, it is important to regularly check if the brake pads are not thinner than 1 mm. Replace them if they become thinner.
Replacing the brake pads We recommend that you use a 5 mm hex key to loosen and remove the brake caliper from the fork or the frame in order to facilitate this operation. Put a 2.5 mm hex key in the hole of the lever fixing bolt. Loosen the inner pin until you feel resistance from the lever fixing bolt. Lever and pull the inner pad down by a small protruding tab.
Remove springs from the worn pads and install them in the new pads. While holding the pads a bit tilted, slide them back into the holder on the caliper and check if the spring is properly attached to the piston (if pulled down, the pad should not come out). Following the instructions below, mount the caliper back on the fork or on the frame, align it and adjust the brake lever activation distance as explained in the "Mounting the brake calipers" section. With new brake pads installed, the braking system will require a break-in period before it is able to deliver the highest performance. Mounting the brake calipers With the wheel locked in, align the caliper on the brake disc, which needs to be placed between the two pads, and position the caliper so that you can lock the frame and fork mounting brackets. Use a 5 mm hex key and the corresponding bolts to mount the caliper without overtightening the bolts.
Pad
Insert a thin screwdriver under the outer pad and lever it. Leave the screwdriver as is and use pliers or pincers to pull out the pad.
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Pad
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Tighten the lever distance adjustment screw until it rests on the lever stop unit. Pull on the brake cable until the brake lever bumps against the limit stop. Remove the cable fixing bolts in order to fully expose the hex bolt hole. Thread the brake cable through the securing hole. Place the fixing bolts about 40 mm from the guard. Use a hex key and an adjustable wrench to tighten the bolts until the cable is securely fixed. Insert the guard into the supporting pin and the cable and the cable fixing bolts into the lever, making sure to correctly lay the cable down in the slot in the center of the lever. Use the lever distance adjuster to eliminate any play between the handlebar leverand the small brake caliper lever. When play has been entirely eliminated, squeeze the brake lever a few times. After releasing the brake lever, rotate the wheel to see if it can move freely. Check if the gap between the brake pads and the brake disc is the same on both sides so that the caliper is perfectly centeredin relation to the disc. Use the adjustment screw to achieve that. When you tighten the adjustment screw, the caliper moves outwards; when you loosen the adjustment screw, the caliper moves inwards. After setting the optimum position, tighten the brake caliper fixing bolts with torques specified in the "Recommended torque table." Cleaning In order to avoid damage to the brake seals, use alcohol or pure water to clean the caliper elements.
1. Remove the wheel from the frame and pull out the brake pads as shown in the figure.
2. Clean the pistons and the area around them. 3. Position the brake lever parallel to the ground and then remove the cover of the container. 4. Push the piston as far back as possible, taking care not to twist it. (A minor oil leak from the container is normal at this stage).
HYDRAULIC DISC BRAKES Hydraulic disc brakes not only offer superior braking performance and control, but also reduce the wear and tear of rims and do not require adjustment resulting from worn brake pads. Replacing the brake pads When the brake pads are worn down to 0.5 mm or the cartridge springs disrupt the normal operation of the rotational element, replace the brake pads. Note: A hydraulic braking system is so designed that while its break cartridges wear down, the pistons gradually come out to automatically control play between the rotational element and the brake pads. That is why you must remember to push the pistons backto their original position when replacing the brake pads.
5. Install new brake pads and then mount the pad spacers. 6. Lock in the wheel. 7. Squeeze the brake lever a few times to see if it resists. 8. Check if the rotational element and the brake pads do not contact each other, and next check the oil level (refill oil if necessary). When this is done, fasten the container cover. WARNING: Use only brake disc oil (mineral oil) to fill the hydraulic braking system. Other types of hydraulic oils will irreparably damage the system and decrease its braking performance.
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Adjusting the brake cable tension To adjust the hub brake cable tension, follow these instructions: 15 mm play
The derailleurs mounted on the bicycle are indexed (numbered) to ensure effective gear shifting. If they are correctly adjusted, it is sufficient to operate the shifter once to effortlessly and precisely change the gear. Adjusting the rear derailleur Adjusting the rear derailleur limit screw Adjust the derailleur stop mechanism only if the chain falls off the biggest or the smallest sprocket. The limit screws do not affect indexing. The two limit screws work independently. They are marked L and H (low and high) on the derailleur body. The "H" limit screw adjusts the derailleur when the chain is on the smallest sprocket. The "L" limit screw adjusts the derailleur when the chain is on the biggest sprocket. Adjusting the top (biggest) sprocket: Turn the top adjustment screw so that the guide pulley is positioned beyond the outer line of the smallest sprocket (when looking from behind).
Outer side of the smallest sprocket Lock ring
Cable adjustment screw
Top adjustment screw
a Loosen the lock ring by turning itccw b Turn the barrel adjuster ccw until you have set the right gap. c Tighten the lock ring by turning it cw. After completing the adjustment procedure, make sure the wheel rotates freely without getting locked.
Guide pulley Adjusting the top (smallest) sprocket: Turn the top adjustment screw so that the guide pulley moves directly under the biggest sprocket.
GEARING As the bicycle features an extremely complex gearing system, we recommend that you have all adjustments made by a professional technician. This section is intended to provide guidelines for minor gearing set-up and adjustments (if needed). EXTERNAL GEARING (DERAILLEURS) In order to ensure good performance of the derailleurs and extend their lifespan, keep them clean and properly lubricated. Replace all worn/flayed cables.
The biggest rear sprocket
Bottom adjustment screw Cage
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HUB BRAKES
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Adjusting the rear derailleur indexing Before you can start setting the indexing, the limit screws must be correctly adjusted as described above. Next, follow these instructions to set the indexing: Lift the rear wheel above the ground to let it rotate freely or ask a friend to help you with that. Operate the handlebar-mounted shifters to move the chain to the top rear sprocket. Operate the shifter in such a way as to move the chain from the top sprocket to the next one, i.e. by one sprocket (one number) lower than the top one as indicated onthe handlebar-mounted shifter.
while the bolt marked with the letter "H" positions the big sprocket. Adjust the limit screws only if the chain falls off the biggest or the smallest sprocket. The limit screws do not affect indexing. Adjusting the smallest sprocket: Set it so that the gap between the chain guide inner plate and the chain is 0–0.5 mm Position of the chain
Rotate the pedals to allow the chain to move over the sprockets. If the chain does not move to the next sprocket, turn the barrel cable adjuster ccw, while rotating the pedals. After selecting the second gear (sprocket), keep turning the barrel cable adjuster until the chain starts rubbing against the third sprocket. Next, turn the barrel adjuster 360° cw. The indexing should be correct now. third
The biggest sprocket
The smallest sprocket
Bottom adjustment screw Chain guide inner plate
second extreme
Chain
Adjusting the biggest sprocket: Set it so that the gap between the chain guide outer plate and the chain is 0–0.5 mm
Zewnętrzna regulacyjna nakrętka baryłkowa
Front derailleur adjustment Adjusting the front derailleur limit screw The lateral movement of the front derailleur is adjusted by means of two limit screws located on the derailleur body. The screw marked with the letter "L" adjusts the derailleur movement when the derailleur is above the small crank sprocket,
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Chain Position of the chain
The smallest sprocket
Top adjustment screw Chain guide outer plate
The biggest sprocket
Adjust the "L" limit screw by turning it cw or ccw until the front derailleur inner edge does not touch the chain anymore. Check the operation of the limit screw by moving the chain over the front sprockets from the smallest one to the next one and then back down. The chain should move to the small sprocket without stopping in the derailleur guide or falling inwards off the chain wheel. If the chain falls on the smaller sprocket, turn the limit screw cw. If the chain does not fall on the smaller sprocket, turn the limit screw ccw. Now move the chain to the smallest rear sprocket. Continue rotating the pedals and select the biggest front sprocket, which is marked with the number "3" on the left-hand lever. Adjust the "H" limit screw until the front derailleur inner edge does not touch the chain anymore. Check the operation of the limit screw by moving the chain over the front sprockets from the biggest one to the next one and then back up. The chain should move to the biggest chain wheel without getting caught in the derailleur or falling off the sprocket outer edge. If the chain falls off the outer edge, turn the limit screw cw. If the chain does not move to the bigger chain wheel, turn the limit screw ccw. Front derailleur indexing adjustment Adjust the front derailleur so that the chain rests on the smallest front sprocket, which is indicated by the number "1" on the left hand lever (shifter). Next, while rotating the pedals, operate the left-hand shifter to select "2".
operating the barrel adjuster until the chain moves to the second or middle chain wheel. If the chain moves too far, select "3" on the shifter and turn the barrel adjuster cw. ADJUSTING THE HUB GEAR It is highly unlikely that you will ever have to adjust the hub gear system. However, should it become necessary, follow these steps: Select "4" on the shifter. It is the only gear number marked in red. Next, turn the barrel adjuster cw or ccw until the two red marks on the rear hub assembly become aligned. The gear is now set correctly and no further adjustments are needed. WHEELS AND TIRES Regularly check the tires for signs of thread wear or damage —replace the tires immediately if damaged. If you need to replace or take off a tire, follow the instructions provided below. If the tire is not taken off and replaced correctly, it may pose a risk of exploding and injuring the rider. Repairing/replacinga tire Take the following steps to replace an inner tube or a tire. If necessary, your local dealer will gladly offer you help.
1. Remove the wheel from the bicycle. 2. In order to deflate the tire, open a Presta valve, press the internal pin of a car valve or remove the cap from a bicycle valve. Squeeze the remaining air from the tire.
If the chain does not move up to the next chain wheel, turn the barrel adjuster on the handlebar-mounted shifter ccw. Continue rotating the pedals and
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While rotating the pedals forward, select the smallest sprocket, which is marked with the number "1" on the left-hand derailleur lever. Continue rotating the pedals and select the biggest rear sprocket, which is marked with the number "1" on the right-hand lever.
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3. By pressing it inwards, loosen the tire edge around the whole rim of the wheel. Push one of the tire sidewalls from the rim edge. NOTE: Use tire tools. Do not use a screwdriver — it could damage both the inner tube and the tire.
11. Use both hands to put the tire back on the rim by pressing the tire edge towards the center of the rim. Start from one side of the valve and keep going around the rim.
4. Remove the inner tube, while leaving the tire on the rim.
13. Put on the remaining section of the tire, "rolling" the last part with your thumbs. Do not use any tools.
12. Once a third of the tire has been put on, push the valve inside the rim to let the tire align with the rim correctly.
5. Locate all leaks and patch them as per the service kit instructions or replace the tube if necessary.
14. Make sure that the inner tube is not trapped between the tire edge and the rim in any place.
6. Compare the inner tube with the tire to locate the potential cause of the perforation. Mark that spot. 7. Remove the tire from the rim and check it to determine the cause; a nail or a piece of glass may still be stuck in the tire. Check the whole tire and the whole rim for damage. Repair or replace them before installation.
NEVER USEA GAS STATION COMPRESSOR TO INFLATE TIRES. DO NOT EXCEED THE RECOMMENDED PRESSURE.
15. Inflate the tire to 40–65 psi with a hand-held bicycle pump and check if it is properly seated on the rim. Make sure that the tire edge (bead toe) is seated on the rim evenly around the whole wheel. If the tire is seated correctly, inflate it to the pressure indicated on the sidewall. Use a pressure gage to check the tire pressure.
8. Attach one of the tire sidewalls on the rim. 9. Use a bicycle pump to introduce enough air to the inner tube to give it a proper shape. 10. Pass the valve through the hole in the rim and introduce the inner tube into the tire. Do not let it twist.
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Car valve stem
Presta valve
Valve stem
If you need a new inner tube, make sure to buy the right size (indicated on the tire sidewall) with the right valve APPLY THE SAME PROCEDURE TO REPLACE A WORN TIRE
CRANKSET It is recommended that the torque of the crank bolts be checked after the first two weeks of using the bicycle and then not less than once every 3 months. Ignoring this recommendation may lead to precision components being irreparably damaged.
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Depending on the model, use a torque ratchet wrench or a hex key to make adjustments. Consult the recommended torque table. The removal of the crank is a complicated operation requiring the use of specialist tools, and therefore it is recommended that all adjustments be made by a professional technician
Crank fastening nut
Dust cover
SHOCK ABSORBERS There are too many different suspension systems to describe each one of them separately. Many bicycles feature shock absorbing systems. If your bicycle has a shock absorber of any kind, read its instruction manual provided by the manufacturer. Note: Improper adjustment, maintenance or repair of the suspension system may result in a malfunction and a consequent loss of steering control and a crash.
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