(pefcr) Pilot T

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1 2 3 4 5 6 Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) Category Rules (PEFCR) Pilot 7 8 T-shirts 9 10 11 12 13 First draft of the T-shirts PEFCR in the context of the EU Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules Pilots 14 Technical secretariat of the PEFCR pilot on T-shirts 15 16 17 July 2016 18 19 1 20 21 Table of Contents List of acronyms ...................................................................................................................................... 4 22 1 Introduction...................................................................................................................................... 6 23 2 General information about the PEFCR ............................................................................................. 6 24 2.1 Technical Secretariat ................................................................................................................. 6 25 2.2 Consultation and stakeholders .................................................................................................. 7 26 2.3 Date of publication and expiration............................................................................................ 8 27 2.4. Geographic region .................................................................................................................... 8 28 2.5 Language(s) of PEFCR ................................................................................................................ 8 29 3 Methodological inputs and compliance ........................................................................................... 8 30 4 PEFCR review and background information ..................................................................................... 9 31 4.1 PEFCR review panel ................................................................................................................... 9 32 4.2 Review requirements for the PEFCR document ...................................................................... 10 33 4.3 Reasoning for development of PEFCR ..................................................................................... 10 34 4.4 Conformance with the PEFCR Guidance ................................................................................. 10 35 5 PEFCR scope ................................................................................................................................... 10 36 5.1 Unit of analysis ........................................................................................................................ 11 37 5.2 Representative product(s) ....................................................................................................... 12 38 5.3 Product classification (NACE/CPA) .......................................................................................... 13 39 5.4 System boundaries – life-cycle stages and processes ............................................................. 13 40 5.5 Selection of the EF impact categories indicators .................................................................... 18 41 5.6 Additional environmental information ................................................................................... 20 42 5.7 Assumptions/limitations ......................................................................................................... 20 43 6 Resource use and emission profile ................................................................................................. 20 44 6.1 Screening step ......................................................................................................................... 20 45 6.2 Data quality requirements ...................................................................................................... 21 46 6.3 Requirements regarding foreground specific data collection ................................................. 25 47 6.4 Requirements regarding background generic data and data gaps ......................................... 42 48 6.5 Data gaps ................................................................................................................................. 58 49 6.6 Use stage ................................................................................................................................. 58 50 6.7 Logistics ................................................................................................................................... 60 51 6.8 End-of-life stage ...................................................................................................................... 64 52 6.9 Requirements for multifunctional products and multiproduct processes allocation ............. 66 53 7 Benchmark and classes of environmental performance ................................................................ 70 2 54 8 Interpretation ................................................................................................................................. 71 55 9 Reporting, Disclosure and Communication .................................................................................... 72 56 9.1 PEF label .................................................................................................................................. 73 57 9.2 Corporate websites ................................................................................................................. 73 58 10 Verification ................................................................................................................................... 74 59 11 Reference literature ..................................................................................................................... 74 60 12 Supporting information for the PEFCR ......................................................................................... 78 61 13 List of annexes .............................................................................................................................. 78 62 Annex I – Representative product ................................................................................................. 78 63 Annex II – Supporting studies ........................................................................................................ 81 64 Annex III – Benchmark and classes of environmental performance ............................................. 86 65 Annex IV – Upstream scenarios (optional) .................................................................................... 87 66 Annex V – Downstream scenarios (optional) ................................................................................ 87 67 Annex VI – Normalisation factors .................................................................................................. 87 68 Annex VII – Weighting factors ....................................................................................................... 88 69 Annex VIII – Foreground data........................................................................................................ 89 70 Annex IX – Background data.......................................................................................................... 89 71 Annex X – EOL formulas ................................................................................................................ 97 72 73 Annex XI – Background information on methodological choices taken during the development of the PEFCR ...................................................................................................................................... 98 74 75 3 76 77 List of acronyms Acronym B2B B2C BOM BREF CF CPA EF ELCD EMAS EoL EPD FRT GHG GRI ILCD ISO LCA LCI LCIA MS NACE NGO OEF OEFSR PAS PCF PCR PEF PEFCR RP SC SME TAB WRI SAC ADEME AFNOR EU PET ELCD GWP WMO EDIP RM DQR DNM AD LCDN TS AISE NASS GLO BIOIS QR Expansion Business to Business Business to Consumers Bill of materials Best Available Techniques Reference Document Characterisation Factor Statistical Classification of Products by Activity Environmental Footprint European Life Cycle Database Environmental Management and Audit Scheme End of Life Environmental Product Declaration Sustainable Consumption and Production Food Round Table Greenhouse Gas Global Reporting Initiative International Reference Life Cycle Data System International Standard Organisation Life Cycle Assessment Life Cycle Inventory Life Cycle Impact Assessment Member State Nomenclature Générale des Activités Economiques dans les Communautés Européennes Non-Governmental Organisation Organisation Environmental Footprint Organisation Environmental Footprint Sectorial Rule Publicly Available Specification Product Carbon Footprint Product Category Rule Product Environmental Footprint Product Environmental Footprint Category Rule Representative Product Steering Committee Small and Medium Enterprise Technical Advisory Board World Resource Institute Sustainable Apparel Coalition Agence de l’Environnement et de la Maitrise de l’Energie Agence Française de Normalisation European Union Polyethylene Terephthalate European reference Life Cycle Database Global Warming Potential World Meteorological Organization Environment-Dependent Interatomic Potential Raw Material Data Quality Rating Data Need Matrix Activity Data Life Cycle Data Network Technical Secretarial International Association for Soaps, Detergents and Maintenance Products National Agricultural Statistics Service of the United States Department of Agriculture Global Bio Intelligence Service Quick Response Code 4 CC OD HTc HTn-c PM IR POF AC TE FE ME FEco LU WD RD CTUe CTUh Climate change Ozone depletion Human toxicity, cancer effects Human toxicity, non-cancer effects Particulate matter Ionizing radiation HH Photochemical ozone formation Acidification Terrestrial eutrophication Freshwater eutrophication Marine eutrophication Freshwater ecotoxicity Land use change Water resource depletion Mineral, fossil & ren resource depletion Comparative Toxic Unit for ecosystems Comparative Toxic Unit for humans 78 79 5 80 Product Environmental Footprint 81 82 Category Rules 83 84 T-shirts 85 Draft v.5 – 29 July 2016 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 1 Introduction The Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) Guide provides detailed and comprehensive technical guidance on how to conduct a PEF study. PEF studies may be used for a variety of purposes, including in-house management and participation in voluntary or mandatory programmes. This PEFCR shall be used in parallel with the PEF Guide. Where the requirements in this PEFCR are in line with but at the same time more specific than those of the PEF Guide, such specific requirements shall be fulfilled. The use of the present PEFCR is optional for PEF guide in-house applications, it is recommended for external applications without comparison/comparative assertions, while it is mandatory for external applications with comparisons/comparative assertions. In the latter two application contexts, organisations are to fulfil the requirements of this PEFCR document from section 7 to 10. 2 General information about the PEFCR 2.1 Technical Secretariat [List with names and affiliations of members of Technical Secretariat] Per 29 July 2016 the members of Technical Secretariat are: ADEME (Edouard Fourdrin) Cycleco (Jérôme Payet, Sandrine Pesnel, Patricia Jimenez Diaz) (coordinator) Decathlon (Raffaele Duby) Devernois (Eric Bougard) French Ministry for Ecology, Sustainable Development and Energy – MEDDE (Sylvain Chevassus, Jean-Paul Ventère) La Redoute (Lénaïc Martin) Les Tissages de Charlieu – LTC (Eric Boël) Okaïdi (Isabelle Anton, Marie Devassine) Pimkie (Christian Kinnen) Promod (Florence Vacheron, Céline Rotthier) 6 122 123 124 Swiss federal office of the environment - FOEN (Ruth Freiermuth Knuchel, Anders Gautschi, Saskia Sanders) Teintures et Apprêts Danjoux - TAD (Jean-Louis Danjoux) 125 2.2 Consultation and stakeholders 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 [Cumulative description of participants and statistical figures related to each consultation. Mention the address of the web page related to the PEFCR development] 140 Participants at the 1st Stakeholder Meeting: 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 A.I.S.E. (Valerie Sejourne) Belgian Federal Public Service for Health & Environment (Hannelore Schorpion) Bureau Veritas CODDE (Jessica Petit) Business Environmental Performance Initiative (BEPI) (Stuart Harker) CIRFS (Bernard Defraye) Cotton Research & Development Corporation (Allan Williams) Euratex (Adil Elmassi) European Commission / Env. (Jiannis Kougoulis) European Commission / Env. (Michele Galatola) Hugo Boss (Heinz Zeller) Hugo Boss (Michela Gioacchini) ICAC (Jose Sette) INDITEX (Natalia Capelán Teijido) Lenzing AG (Christian Schuster) Ministry for the Environment, Land and Sea of the Republic of Italy (Vladimir Stefanovic) Nike, Inc (Annette Herboth) thinkstep (formerly PE INTERNATIONAL) (Diana Eggers) thinkstep (formerly PE INTERNATIONAL) (Michael Spielmann) SAC Europe (Dai Forterre) 1st stakeholder Consultation: 17 February to 28 March; Stakeholder Meeting in Brussels 14 March 2014 The first consultation was relative to the definition of PEF product category, the scope of PEFCR and the definition of the representative product. Eleven written documents received from CIRFS, CRDC, Ministry for the Environment, Land and Sea; Republic of Italy - CO2Print LLC, The International EPD® System / Swedish Environmental Management council, Hugo Boss Ticino SA, Lenzing AG, Belgian DirectorateGeneral for Environment - Department of Product Policy and Chemical Substances, LTC, FPS, Euratex, Technical Helpdesk. Including members of the Technical Secretariat: ADEME (Emilie Machefaux) CYCLECO (Gemma Fortea) CYCLECO (Jérôme Payet) CYCLECO (Sandrine Pesnel) Decathlon (Raffaele Duby) DETEC/FOEN (Marie-Amélie Dupraz-Ardiot) DETEC/FOEN (Ruth Freiermuth Knuchel) Devernois (Eric Bougard) 7 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190 191 Les Tissages de Charlieu (Eric Boël) MEDDE (French Environment Ministry) (Sylvain Chevassus) Ministry of sustainable development (French Environment Ministry) (Jean-Paul Ventère) Promod (Céline Rotthier) Promod (Florence Vacheron) 192 2.3 Date of publication and expiration 193 194 195 196 197 198 199 200 201 202 203 204 205 206 207 208 209 210 211 212 [Provide the date of publication of the PEFCR and date of expiration. Write out the date (e.g., 25 June 2015) to avoid confusion of the date format] 213 3 Methodological inputs and compliance 214 215 216 [List the PEF Guide that the PEFCR is in conformance with, including year of publication or version. List compliance with other global guidances (e.g ISO 14040-44, BPX 30-323…)] 2nd stakeholder Consultation: 10 September to 7 October 2015 The second consultation was relative to the first draft of the T-shirt PEFCR and the PEF screening report. Eight written documents received from European Man-made Fibres Association (CIRFS), Cotton Research & Development Corporation (CRDC), Hugo Boss for Ticinomoda, International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO), Lenzing AG, The Nordic Environmental Footprint group (NEF) – a Nordic Council of Ministers working party, Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), thinkstep AG. Web page related to the PEFCR development: https://webgate.ec.europa.eu/fpfis/wikis/display/EUENVFP/Stakeholder+workspace%3A+PE FCR+pilot+T-shirts Version number: Draft version 5 (after the supporting studies, for consultation) Date of publication/revision: xx xx 2016 Date of expiration: 4 years after the date of publication 2.4. Geographic region [Identify the name of the country or countries for which the PEFCR is valid] This PEFCR is valid for T-shirts products sold in the European Union of 28. 2.5 Language(s) of PEFCR [PEFCR shall come in English. If the PEFCR is made available in other languages, then title, revision number and date of issue should be clearly indicated in the translated PEFCRs as well as the name of the translator(s) and its/their accreditation number, if possible, or name of the (public) institution providing the translation]. This draft PEFCR T-shirts v.1 is written in English. The original in English supersedes translated versions in case of conflicts. 8 217 218 219 220 221 222 223 224 225 226 227 228 229 230 231 232 233 234 The PEFCR has been prepared in conformance with the following documents: Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) Guide; Annex II to the Recommendation 2013/179/EU, 9 April 2013, published in the Official Journal of the European Union Volume 56, 4 May 2013 http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/ALL/?uri=OJ:L:2013:124:TOC Guidance for the implementation of the EU Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) during the Environmental Footprint (EF) pilot phase - version 5.2. [Brussels], European Commission, DG Environment: pp. 95. http://ec.europa.eu/environment/eussd/smgp/pdf/Guidance_products.pdf [Identify the registration/identification number (if applicable), PCR name, program operator name (if applicable), and web-link to the PCR that was referenced while creating this PEFCR] The Product Category Rules (PCR) referenced while creating this PEFCR are listed in the Table 1. Table 1 – Existing PCRs for T-shirts products Source PCR Product category Underlying standards and program instructions ADEME AFNOR BP X30-323-23: General principles for an environmental communication on mass market products Part 23: Methodology for the environmental impacts assessment of clothing1 Clothing products BPX30-323-0 transverse guide2 PCR for Style T-shirts3 T-shirts PCR for Performance Tshirts4 T-shirts ISO 14025-2006 and ISO 14044-2006, the SAC’s PCR Guidance and the Earthsure General Program Instructions SAC (Sustainable Apparel Coalition) SAC (Sustainable Apparel Coalition) 235 236 237 238 239 240 241 242 243 244 4 PEFCR review and background information 4.1 PEFCR review panel [Provide the name, contact information and affiliation of the chair and the other members of the review panel] This section will be filled once the review panel has been constituted. 9 245 246 247 248 249 250 251 252 253 254 255 256 257 258 259 260 261 262 263 264 265 266 267 268 269 270 271 272 273 274 275 276 277 278 279 280 281 282 283 284 285 286 287 288 289 290 291 292 293 4.2 Review requirements for the PEFCR document [Specify the requirements set for the critical review of this PEFCR document] The critical review is essential for ensuring that the PEFCR: - is consistent with the guidance provided in the PEF Guide and the PEFCR guidance (version 5.2); - is written in a format that persons with a technical background but without preknowledge in environmental footprints can understand and use to conduct a PEF study; - completes the PEF guide requirements with additional requirements specific to the particularities of T-shirts life cycle; e.g. unit of analysis, allocation and calculation rules are adequate with the T-shirts category; - provides guidance to conduct a compliant PEF study and clearly specify the most relevant LCIA indicators and additional environmental information for the T-shirts product category to determine the environmental performance; - enables comparisons and comparatives assertions in all cases when this is considered feasible, relevant and appropriate. 4.3 Reasoning for development of PEFCR [Describe application contexts of PEFCR. Describe any attempt to harmonize PEFCR or align with existing PCRs] The current PEFCR aims to provide means to evaluate the environmental impacts of T-shirts products sold in Europe, applying a harmonised approach, in order to have comparable results. The existing PCRs identified in the Table 1 are not entirely compliant with the PEF guide (differences in terms of data, rule or procedural alignment)5. Thus, this PEFCR is not aligned with the existing PCRs. Nevertheless, these documents represent very useful sources of information and are used as references when relevant. 4.4 Conformance with the PEFCR Guidance [Summarize the conformity assessment against the ‘Guidance for the Implementation of the EU PEF during the Environmental Footprint (EF) pilot phase’]. This first draft PEFCR has been prepared in conformance with the “Guidance for the implementation of the EU PEF during the Environmental Footprint (EF) pilot phase – version 5.2”. Section to be filled after the review has been completed. 5 PEFCR scope This PEFCR is for the product category T-shirts. The product category can be described as follows: Apparel products that are fit to dress the upper body, mainly consisting of a knitted fabric (at least 51% of the product weight), without complete opening (from top to bottom) on the front. Knitted fabric is produced by circular or tubular knitting with gauge higher than 16 needles per inch and its surface density is less than 270 g/m². 10 294 295 296 297 298 299 300 301 302 303 304 305 306 307 308 309 310 311 312 313 314 315 316 317 318 319 320 321 322 323 324 325 326 327 328 329 Some fashion T-shirts are composed of one woven part and one knitted part. These products are also taken into account in the product category. A threshold value of 51% is used to limit the scope of the PEFCR to products mainly composed of knitted fabric. With this threshold, Tshirts are differentiated from other items composed of woven fabrics like blouses and tunics. Information about the exclusion of these products from the scope of the PEFCR is provided below. 330 5.1 Unit of analysis 331 332 333 334 335 336 337 338 339 340 341 342 [Provide Unit of analysis. Specify requirements regarding the reference flow.] The definition takes into account the technology used (type of knitting and gauge) and the surface density of the products to differentiate T-shirts and pullovers. T-shirts are produced on circular or tubular knitting, compared to pullovers which are mainly produced with flat knitting. This criterion does not exclude some T-shirts of the scope of the PEFCR. The threshold on the gauge and the surface density are also used to define a limit between T-shirts (items with low surface density, produced with small gauge) and pullovers (items with larger surface density, produced with larger gauge). The value of 270 g/m² was defined according to data coming from the retailers of the technical secretariat and the Cotton Research & Development Corporation (CRDC) / Cotton Incorporated input. The product category covers the following products: - T-shirts used for sport activities, - singlets and other vests, - T-shirts with long and short sleeves, - sleeveless T-shirts, - polo shirts, - un-printed and printed T-shirts, - T-shirts with or without accessories (buttons, zip, strass…), - T-shirts with or without specific treatment (moisture transfer…). This product group excludes: - shirts because these products have a complete opening (from top to bottom) on the front, - singlets and other vests not knitted or crocheted (e.g. blouses, tunics), due to their process of production (not knitted fabric), - pullovers, due to their higher gauge and surface density. Shirts, singlets and other vests not knitted or crocheted (items composed of woven fabrics like blouses and tunics), and pullovers are excluded of the scope because these products correspond to different markets (they are covered by other CPA codes). The functional unit of the T-shirt is defined as: “To wear a T-shirt for a period of 1 year”. This functional unit allows to compare the different T-shirts based on the function brought by the product. It covers the entire category of the products investigated. The defined life span in the functional unit is one year. The life span of the studied T-shirt is calculated according to the number of washes tolerated by the T-shirt and the frequency of the washes. However, in the absence of a method allowing to quantify it, a standard life span of 52 washes is considered for all the T-shirts (see part 5.6 “Use stage”)5. Furthermore, the frequency of the washings is defined as follows: the T-shirt is worn and cleaned once a week47. In this 11 343 344 345 346 347 348 349 350 351 352 353 354 355 356 357 358 359 360 361 362 363 364 365 366 367 368 369 370 way, the life span of the studied T-shirt is 52 weeks, meaning 1 year. The reference flow is therefore systematically 1 T-shirt. 5.2 Representative product(s) [Provide a short description of the representative product, by summarizing information reported in Annex I, where the steps taken to define the “representative product” shall be detailed. In this section, specify if the representative product is a real or a virtual product.] There are five representative products in this product category one for each category of sizes: - Men T-shirts - Women T-shirts - Children (2 to 7 years) T-shirts - Children (8 to 14 years) T-shirts - Babies T-shirts These representative products characterize what is potentially sold on the European market. The representative products are all virtual (“average”) products. They have been defined using available market data and data related to products specifically sold by the retailers of the technical secretariat. The bill of materials of the representative products is available in the Table 2. It takes into account the textile part of the product (composed of cotton, polyester, viscose…) and the accessories what remains on the T-shirt (as buttons, zips, strass, care label…). Table 2 – Bill of materials of the representative products5 Materials * Men Tshirts Women Tshirts Cotton Polyester Viscose Polyamide Polypropylene Acrylic Wool Elastane Chlorofibre Flax Hemp Silk Brand tag Care label Buttons Zips Strass Total weight 122,25 25,30 3,01 2,76 2,02 1,54 0,87 0,40 0,34 0,12 0,07 0,08 0,25 0,60 0,14 0,25 0,001 160 g 114,55 23,71 2,82 2,59 1,89 1,45 0,82 0,37 0,32 0,11 0,07 0,08 0,25 0,60 0,14 0,25 0,001 150 g Children (2 Children (8 to 7 years) to 14 years) T-shirts T-shirts g / 1 T-shirt 76,05 99,15 15,74 20,52 1,87 2,44 1,72 2,24 1,25 1,64 0,96 1,25 0,54 0,71 0,25 0,32 0,21 0,28 0,08 0,10 0,04 0,06 0,05 0,07 0,25 0,25 0,60 0,60 0,14 0,14 0,25 0,25 0,001 0,001 100 g 130 g Babies Tshirts 71,59 0,25 0,60 2,57 75 g Detailed description of the representative products and underlying data is provided in Annex I. 12 371 372 373 374 375 376 377 378 379 380 381 382 383 384 385 5.3 Product classification (NACE/CPA) 386 5.4 System boundaries – life-cycle stages and processes 387 388 389 390 391 392 393 394 395 396 397 398 399 400 401 402 403 404 405 406 407 408 409 410 411 412 413 414 415 416 417 418 419 [Specify all attributable life-cycle stages and processes that are part of the product system. (The co-products, by-products and waste streams should be clearly identified) Justify any deviation from the default cradle-to-grave approach (e.g. exclusions of life cycle stages and processes), referring to the results of the screening and approval processes for decisions taken.] [Based on the product category, provide the corresponding Classification of Products by Activity (CPA) (minimum two-digit, based on the latest CPA list version available). Where multiple production routes for similar products are defined using alternative CPAs, the PEFCR shall accommodate all such CPAs. Identify the sub-categories not covered by the CPA, if any] The CPA code corresponding to the product category is C14.14.3 “T-shirts, singlets and other vests, knitted or crocheted”. Due to the complexity of the wearing apparel sector, a two-digit CPA code division is not sufficient to correctly define the product category. The two-digit CPA code corresponds to the “Wearing apparel” category which covers a wide variety of products with very different functions (wearing apparel, articles of fur…). It is the same situation for C 14.1 (Wearing apparel, except fur apparel) and C 14.14 (Underwear) CPA codes. The Product Environmental Footprint of a T-shirt shall be based on a "cradle-to-grave" analysis. The cradle-to-grave system shall start when resources are extracted from nature and ends when the product is treated during the end-of-life after it use phase. The life cycle of a T-shirt encompasses the following stages: - Production of raw materials, - Production of T-shirts, - Transportation between production steps, - Transport of the final product, - Distribution of the T-shirt, - Use stage, - End-of-life stage. Boundaries to nature Boundaries to nature shall be defined as flows of resources from nature into the system. Emissions to air, water and soil cross the system boundary when they are emitted from or leaving the product system. Resources and emissions are elementary flows entering the system being studied that have been drawn from the environment without previous human transformation, or material or energy leaving the system being studied that are released into the environment without subsequent human transformation. Boundaries to other product life cycles The following processes are shared with other products or product life cycles: - the production of recycled materials (e.g. production of recycled polyester from PET bottles, production of recycled materials from production waste or post-consumer waste), 13 420 421 422 423 424 425 426 427 The end-of-life formula provided in the PEF Guide shall be used to allocate environmental impact between different product systems. 428 System diagram 429 430 431 432 433 434 435 436 437 438 439 440 [Provide a system diagram clearly indicating the processes that are included in the product system. Provide a second diagram indicating the organizational boundary, to highlight those activities under the control of the organization, indicate with more detail the processes that are on the interface of the investigated product system (processes that are included) and other product systems (excluded processes) or the environment] - the recycling and recovery of T-shirts at the end-of-life, the recycling of packaging at the end-of-life. Co-products and requirements for multiproduct processes allocation are described in the chapter 5.9. Figure 1 shows the system boundary diagram with the cradle-to-grave system boundary (simplified), while the Figure 2 shows the organizational boundary. 14 441 442 443 Figure 1 - Product system with system boundary 15 444 445 446 447 448 449 The Figure 2 defines a general situation for the access to primary data for companies. In practice, the access to primary data could be very different from one company to another. This difference is particularly important concerning the T-shirt production stage. Figure 2 – Access to primary data 16 450 451 452 453 454 455 The following stages are not taken into account in the study: - All activities relating to employees (travels, meals, business trips, water (tap water, toilets)) - The production and the end-of-life of ironing machine The reason for these activities being excluded is that they are difficult to collect. Moreover, these activities/stages are not very impacting with regards to the other life cycle stages. 456 System boundaries - upstream processes/scenarios 457 458 459 460 461 462 463 464 465 466 467 468 469 470 471 472 473 474 [Specify upstream scenarios (e.g. raw material production, raw material extraction). If necessary, a more detailed description can be provided in Annex IV (optional). 475 System boundaries - core processes/scenarios 476 477 478 479 480 481 482 483 484 485 486 487 488 489 490 491 492 493 494 495 496 The production of T-shirts covers: - the production of yarn through spinning (production of yarn with staple fibres) or the production of filament yarns, Note: the texturizing, the thermofixation and the scouring of the synthetic fibres are taken into account during the spinning process. - the knitting (production of knitted fabric), - the weaving (production of woven fabric), - the finishing (treatment of a textile product: dyeing, printing…): the finishing can occur at different levels of the production: e.g. dyeing can be done on yarn or on fabric. The desizing, the softening and the singeing (in case of printing process), and the heat-setting are included in this step. - the assembly: it includes cutting, sewing (at this stage composition and care labels, brand tag and accessories such as buttons, zip, strass or snaps are sewn on the T-shirt), ironing, trimming application, folding and all the production steps prior to packaging, - the packaging of the final product (primary, secondary and/or tertiary packaging), - the transportation between production steps: transport occurs after the production of raw material, and between the different processes of production. If there is an inflow of material to the production system in the production/manufacturing phase, the following processes shall be included in the study: - - Production of textile raw materials: this step consists in the production or extraction of raw materials (breeding, husbandry, crop cultivation, fossil resources, wood…). This step also includes the preparation of fibres (e.g. wool scouring). The bleaching of natural fibers is taken into account at this stage. The following raw materials are covered by the PEFCR: cotton, polyester, viscose, polyamide, polypropylene, acrylic, wool, elastane, chlorofibre, flax, silk and hemp. Each material corresponds to the different technologies available, as well as the different countries of production. For example, the cotton covers conventional cotton, organic cotton and recycled cotton. Similarly, the polyester covers both virgin polyester and recycled polyester (the different technologies of recycling are taken into account). Production of raw materials for accessories and packaging Production of other materials: water, chemicals, energy (fuels, electricity and heat) The wastewater treatment and the management of textile production waste are taken into account. All the processes which are required to obtain the final product shall be modelled in the study. For example, other processes such as sizing shall be included. 17 497 System boundaries - downstream processes/scenarios 498 499 500 501 502 503 504 505 506 507 508 509 510 511 512 513 514 515 [Specify downstream processes in terms of selected scenarios for e.g. use phase and end of life. If necessary, a more detailed description can be provided in Annex V (optional).] 516 5.5 Selection of the EF impact categories indicators 517 518 519 520 521 522 523 524 525 526 527 528 529 530 531 532 533 534 [If applicable, identify the most relevant EF impact categories for the product category in scope]. All the background information concerning the rationale for the selection of the most relevant impact categories shall be provided in Annex XI to the PEFCR. Downstream processes cover: - the transport of the final product: it consists in the transport of the T-shirt between the assembly factory and the stores or the delivery points through the warehouses. - the warehouses (distribution center) - the retail place - the services associated with the entire activity from the warehouse to user: it includes services associated to security, accounting, IT, legal affairs and marketing - the customer travel: it corresponds to the travel of the customer from his/her home to the stores or the delivery points, and the return trip. Mode of transport taken into account is by car, scooter, tram, bus, bicycle, by foot or by delivery service. - the use stage: it is composed of 3 processes: washing, drying and ironing. - the end-of-life stage: it includes the recycling and the elimination (incineration or landfilling) of T-shirts and the end-of-life of packaging (the transport from home to collection place, the transport from collection place to incineration and landfill, and the polypropylene bag for trash are included). The Table 3 provides the list of the 15 Environmental Footprint (EF) impact categories related to the assessment methods that shall be used. For each impact category, the following information are provided: - EF impact assessment model, - Unit, - Source, - Classification of the method performed in the ILCD Handbook “Recommendations for Life Cycle Impact Assessment in the European context”6. The recommended characterisation models and associated characterisation factors are classified into three levels according to their quality: o Level I: recommended and satisfactory o Level II: recommended, but in need of some improvements o Level III: recommended, but to be applied with caution 18 535 Table 3 – Environmental Footprint (EF) Impact Categories EF Impact Category Climate change Ozone depletion Human toxicity cancer effect Human toxicity - noncancer effect Acidification Particulate matter/Respiratory Inorganics Ecotoxicity for aquatic fresh water EF Impact Assessment Model Unit Source Classification kg CO2 eq. Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, 2007 34 I kg CFC-11 eq. WMO, 1999 35 I USEtox model CTUh Rosenbaum et al., 2008 36 II/III USEtox model CTUh Rosenbaum et al., 2008 36 II/III Accumulated Exceedance model mol H+ eq. Seppälä et al.,2006 37; Posch et al., 2008 38 II RiskPoll model kg PM2.5 eq. Humbert, 2009 39 I USEtox model CTUe Rosenbaum et al., 2008 36 II/III kBq U235 eq. (to air) Dreicer et al., 1995 40 II Bern model - Global Warming Potentials (GWP) over a 100 year time horizon EDIP model based on the ODPs of the World Meteorological Organization (WMO) over an infinite time horizon Ionising radiations – Human Health effect model human health effects LOTOS-EUROS model kg NMVOC eq. Accumulated Exceedance model mol N eq. EUTREND model kg P eq. Eutrophication marine EUTREND model kg N eq. Land use change Soil Organic Matter (SOM) model kg C deficit Milà i Canals et al., 2007 43 III Swiss Ecoscarcity model m3 water eq. Frischknecht et al., 2008 44 III CML2002 model kg Sb eq. van Oers et al., 2002 45 II Resource depletion water Resource depletion mineral, fossil & renewable 536 537 538 539 540 541 542 543 544 545 546 547 Van Zelm et al., 2008 41 as applied in ReCiPe Seppälä et al.,2006 37; Posch et al., 2008 38 Struijs et al., 2009 42 as implemented in ReCiPe Struijs et al., 2009 42 as implemented in ReCiPe Photochemical ozone formation Eutrophication terrestrial Eutrophication freshwater II II II II The impact category 'climate change' covers three sub-indicators: 1) Climate change – fossil, 2) Climate change – biogenic and 3) Climate change – land use and land transformation52. However, the PEF screening33 and the supporting studies (Annex II) identify the following EF impact categories as the most relevant for the product category: - Climate change (CC) - Particulate matter (PM) - Freshwater eutrophication (FE) - Marine eutrophication (ME) - Resource depletion mineral, fossil & renewable (RD) 19 548 549 550 In addition to this, human toxicity-cancer effect, human toxicity-non-cancer effect, freshwater ecotoxicity and water resource depletion indicators are pre-selected subject to improved characterization factors33. 551 5.6 Additional environmental information 552 553 554 555 556 557 558 [Specify which additional environmental information that shall/should be included. Reference all methods used to report additional information.] 559 560 561 562 563 564 Biodiversity 565 5.7 Assumptions/limitations 566 567 568 569 570 571 572 573 574 575 576 577 578 579 580 581 582 583 584 585 [Report product category-specific limitations and define the assumptions necessary to overcome these.] 586 6 Resource use and emission profile 587 6.1 Screening step 588 589 590 591 [ i) Specify processes to be included, as well as associated data quality and review requirements] [ii) Specify for which processes specific data are required, for which the use of generic data is either permissible or required.] All the background information concerning the rationale for the selection the additional environmental information shall be provided in Annex XI to the PEFCR. No additional environmental information identified. There is no cross and consensus method to take biodiversity into account for the textile sector. No additional environmental information is added. This part could be further completed in the final PEFCR. This PEFCR provides rules for the product category “T-shirts”. Other products such as shirts, singlets and other vests not knitted or crocheted (e.g. blouses, tunics) and pullovers are not covered by the PEFCR, since these products correspond to different markets (they are covered by other CPA codes). As no method is available to quantify the lifetime of T-shirts, the PEFCR refers to standard (typical) lifetime (cf. 5.6 “Use stage”). The “T-shirts” PEFCR assumes that T-shirts have a standard lifetime of 52 washings. During the revision of the PEFCR (after the date of expiration) it will be necessary to check if method allowing to quantify the lifetime is available. If it is the case, a variable lifetime can be used in the PEFCR. The following stages are not taken into account in the system boundary: - All activities relating to employees (travels, meals, business trips, water (tap water, toilets)) - The production and the end-of-life of ironing machine The reason for these activities being excluded is that they are difficult to collect. Moreover, these activities/stages are not very impacting with regards to the other life cycle stages. 20 592 593 594 595 596 597 598 599 600 601 602 603 604 605 606 607 608 609 610 611 612 613 614 615 616 617 618 619 620 621 622 623 624 625 626 According to the PEF screening33, the most relevant life cycle stages are: - The raw materials production (includes the textile raw materials, the accessories and the packaging) - T-shirt production - The customer travel - The use phase (washing, drying and ironing) 627 6.2 Data quality requirements 628 629 630 631 632 633 634 635 636 637 638 639 640 [Provide guidance on data quality assessment scoring with respect to time, geographical and technological representativeness. Specify if there are any additional criteria for the assessment of data quality (compared to default criteria reported in the PEF Guide)] The study of representative products and the supporting studies (cf. Annex II) led to the identification of the following relevant processes, which should be included: - Production of textile raw materials - Transport of raw materials (transport T-RM) - Spinning - Transport of yarn (transport T1) - Knitting - Dyeing - Transport of finished fabric (transport T5) - Assembly - Transport between assembly and warehouse (transport T6) - Customer travel - Washing - Washing machine - Drying - Ironing - T-shirt end of life - Cardboard end of life The background on the definition of the most relevant processes for the representative product is provided in the PEF screening report33 and in the Annex I – Representative product. The PEF screening is used to classify the processes into two groups: the most relevant processes and the other processes. This classification is necessary to apply the Data Needs Matrix available in the part 6.2. “Data quality requirements”. Information on the data quality requirements and the evaluation of the data quality rating are available in the following part. The company implementing the PEFCR shall13: a) Determine the level of influence (Situation 1, 2 or 3 described below) the company has for each process in its supply chain. This decision determines which of the options in Table 4 is pertinent for each process; b) Follow the rules mentioned in Table 4 (Data Need Matrix, DNM) for relevant and other processes. Note that the list of default processes to be used is an exhaustive list. In case a new process is needed, the rules for situation1 option 1 or situation 2 option 1 shall apply (i.e. the new dataset used shall be EF compliant and with a DQR not higher than 1.6); 21 c) Re-calculate the DQR for all the datasets used for the most relevant processes, the new ones created, and other processes in situation 1; d) The processes with substituted activity data/sub-processes shall be declared and will automatically enter the list of issue to be checked by the external verifier. The dataset used for substitution shall be EF compliant, publicly available, and have at least the same quality as the substituted default process. Data needs matrix Situation 1: the process is run by the company applying the PEFCRa,b. Situation 2: the process is not run by the company applying the PEFCR but it is possible to have access to (company-)specific information. Situation 3: the process is not run by the company applying the PEFCR and this company has no possibility to have access to (company-)specific information. Table 4 – Dataset needs matrix (DNM) Option 1 Provide company-specific data (as requested in the PEFCR) and create a company specific dataset partially disaggregated at least at level 1c (DQR ≤1.6). Option 2 Option 1 Option 2 Option 1 Situation 2: process not run by the company applying the PEFCR but with access to (company-)specific information Situation 1: process run by the company applying the PEFCR Most relevant process Situation 3: process not run by the company applying the PEFCR and without access to (company)specific information 641 642 643 644 645 646 647 648 649 650 651 652 653 654 655 656 Other process Provide company-specific data (as requested in the PEFCR) and create a company specific dataset partially disaggregated at least at level 1 c (DQR ≤1.6). Use default secondary dataset, aggregated form (DQR ≤3.0) Provide company-specific data (as requested in the PEFCR) and create a company specific dataset partially disaggregated at least at level 1 c (DQR ≤1.6). Starting from the default secondary dataset provided in the PEFCR, use company-specific activity data for transport (distance), and substitute the sub-processes used for electricity mix and transport with supply-chain specific PEF compliant datasets. The newly created dataset shall have a DQR ≤3.0. in Use default secondary dataset, in aggregated form (DQR ≤4.0) Use default secondary dataset, in aggregated form (DQR ≤3.0) a The cases where the process is run by a sub-contractor to the company applying the PEFCR (e.g. when the company is branding the product but not producing it) are considered equivalent to situation 1 b When a product/material is produced by the same company in different sites without altering the essential characteristics of the product, then data calculated as weighted average based on production volume per site can be used. c The underlying sub-processes shall be based on PEF-compliant secondary datasets. 22 657 658 659 660 661 662 663 664 665 666 667 668 669 670 In the parts 6.3. “Requirements regarding foreground specific data collection” and 6.4. “Requirements regarding background generic data and data gaps”, the options are described for the different processes according to their relevance. For each process, the choice between the different options shall be done according to the situation identified. The company applying the PEFCR shall determine the level of influence (situation 1, 2 or 3) the company has for each process in its supply chain (step 1). If different options are proposed for one situation (cf. Table 4), the company implementing the PEFCR shall choose between the different options (step 2). Examples are provided in the Table 5. The company A is doing knitted fabric. The company B is a retailer. These companies have different level of influence on the supply chain. Table 5 - Examples of application of the DNM for two companies Company applying the PEFCR Company A (manufacturer: production of knitted fabric) Step 1: choice of the situation Sizing process (non-relevant process) Knitting (most relevant process) Step 1: choice of the situation Situation 1: the process is run by the Situation 3: the process is not run by the company applying the PEFCR company applying the PEFCR and this company has no possibility to have  Option 1 or 2 access to company-specific (activity) Step 2: choice of the options data related to that process/material.  Option 2  One option available Step 1: choice of the situation Step 1: choice of the situation Situation 1: the process is run by the Situation 3: the process is not run by the company applying the PEFCR company applying the PEFCR and this company has no possibility to have  One option available access to company-specific (activity) data related to that process/material.  One option available Step 1: choice of the situation Step 1: choice of the situation Dyeing process (most relevant process) Company B (retailer) Situation 3: the process is not run by the company applying the PEFCR and this company has no possibility to have access to company-specific (activity) data related to that process/material.  One option available Situation 2: the process is not run by the company applying the PEFCR but it is possible to have access to companyspecific (activity) data.  Option 1 or 2 Step 2: choice of the option  Option 1 Step 1: choice of the situation Transport between warehouse and shop (most relevant process) Step 1: choice of the situation Situation 3: the process is not run by Situation 1: the process is run by the the company applying the PEFCR and company applying the PEFCR this company has no possibility to have  One option available access to company-specific (activity) data related to that process/material  One option available 671 23 672 673 674 675 676 677 678 679 680 681 682 683 684 685 686 687 688 689 690 691 692 693 694 695 696 697 698 699 700 701 702 703 704 Evaluation of the data quality rating According to the Guidance for the implementation of the EU Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) during the Environmental Footprint (EF) pilot phase (annex E)51, this semi-quantitative assessment shall assess the data quality of the datasets based on six criteria: - Technological-representativeness (TeR) - Geographical-representativeness (GR) - Time-representativeness (TiR) - Completeness (C) - Precision/uncertainty (P) - End-of-life formula (EoL) (the end-of-life formula is described in the guidance for the implementation of the EU Product Environmental Footprint (PEF)) 51 Five quality levels are defined for each criterion, according to the PEF guide. These levels are defined in the Table 6. Table 6 – Definition of the quality levels Quality level Quality rating Very good 1 Good 2 Fair 3 Poor 4 Very poor 5 Definition Meets the criterion to a very high degree, without need for improvement. Meets the criterion to a high degree, with little significant need for improvement. Meets the criterion to an acceptable degree, but merits improvement. Does not meet the criterion to a sufficient degree. Requires improvement. Does not meet the criterion. Substantial improvement is necessary OR: This criterion was not judged / reviewed or its quality could not be verified / is unknown. The overall Data Quality Rating (DQR) shall be calculated by summing up the achieved quality rating for each of the quality criteria, divided by the total number of criteria (i.e. 6). 𝐷𝑄𝑅 = 𝑇𝑒𝑅 + 𝐺𝑅 + 𝑇𝑖𝑅 + 𝐶 + 𝑃 + 𝐸𝑜𝐿 6 The Table 7 presents the criteria that shall be used to perform the Data Quality Assessment. 24 705 706 Table 7 – Criteria for semi-quantitative assessment of overall data quality of the Life Cycle Inventory datasets used in the EF study Quality level Very good Good Fair Poor Very Poor Quality rating 1 2 3 Completeness (C) End-of-life formula (EoL) All 15 PEF Impact Categories The EoL formula is implemented in the entire dataset (foreground and all background processes) 14 PEF Impact Categories (and all 10 categories classified I or II in ILCD are includedd) 12-13 PEF Impact Categories (and all 10 categories classified I or II in ILCD are included) 4 10-11 PEF Impact Categories (and all those covered are classified I or II in ILCD) 5 Less than 10 PEF Impact Categories (and all those covered are classified I or II in ILCD) The EoL formula is implemented in foreground level-1 + level-2 disaggregated processes The EoL formula is implemented in foreground at level1disaggregated processes The EoL formula is not implemented, but all information and data needed to calculate all parameters in the EoL formula are available and transparently documented The EoL formula is not implemented Representativeness Time-related (TiR) Parameter uncertainty (P) Technological (TeR) Geographical (GR) The technology modelled is exactly the one used by the company Country specific data Very low uncertainty (≤ 10%) 2-4 years old data The technology modelled is very similar to the one used by the company Continental data covering the country concerned Low uncertainty (10% to 20%] 5-8 years old data The technology modelled is representative for average technology used for similar processes Other country or continental data Fair uncertainty (20% to 30%] 9-14 years old data The technology modelled present several relevant differences compared to the one used by the company Global data High uncertainty (30% to 50%] The technology modelled is not representative of the one used by the company Unknown Very high uncertainty (> 50%)  2 year old data  14 years old data 707 6.3 Requirements regarding foreground specific data collection 708 709 710 711 712 [Specify: i) Unit processes for which primary specific data are required (e.g. foreground processes) and how they are to be collected. ii) Define the data collection requirements for the following aspects for each site: • Data collection coverage d The 10 impact categories classified in ILCD Handbook as category I or II are : Climate change, Ozone depletion, particulate matter, ionizing radiation human health, photochemical ozone formation, acidification, eutrophication terrestrial, eutrophication freshwater, eutrophication marine water, resource depletion mineral fossil and renewable. 25 713 714 715 716 717 718 719 720 721 722 723 724 725 726 • • • Location of data collection (domestically, internationally, …) Term of data collection (year, season, month, …) When the location or term of data collection must be limited to a certain range, provide a justification and show that the collected data will serve as sufficient samples.] 727 Data collection of primary data 728 729 730 731 732 733 734 735 Weight of T-shirt: Size management 736 737 738 739 740 The weight of the T-shirt is the weight of finished product. It includes the textile part of the product and the accessories remaining on the T-shirt (buttons, zips, strass, care label…). It does not include accessories which are removed before use, e.g. price tag, cardboard brand tag). [Provide a list of substances/elementary flows in the foreground system that shall be collected. This list shall be added as an Annex VIII; Include one or more examples for compiling foreground data, including specifications with respect to: • Substance lists for activities/processes included, • Units, • Nomenclature for elementary flows (in line with ILCD Data Network entry level requirements).] On the market T-shirts are available for all sizes. To simplify the calculation of the impacts, the environmental impacts are provided to customers for one reference size (identified according to the article), instead of calculating environmental impacts for each size. The weight of Tshirts is considered as a primary data (specific data for each article). For example for women, the environmental impacts are provided for the chest 92-95 cm instead of providing different environmental impacts for the chest 80-83, 84-87, 88-91, 92-95 and 96-99. Table 8 – Reference sizes Type of article EU Standard Men Chest: 97-104 cm [1] Women Chest: 92-95 cm [1] Children (from 2 to 7 years old) Height: 98-104 cm [2] Children (from 8 to 14 years old) Height: 135-140 cm [2] Babies Height: 71-76 cm Sources: [1] French measurement campaign, IFTH, 2006 [2] ADEME-AFNOR, “Clothing” PCR, 2013 741 742 743 744 The classification of the T-shirts according to the sizes is defined below14: Men Chest (cm) 73-80 81-88 89-96 97-104 745 746 747 26 105112 113120 121128 129136 748 Women Chest (cm) 76-79 80-83 84-87 88-91 92-95 96-99 100103 … 104107 108113 114119 120125 126131 132137 98-104 105110 111116 117122 continued below… 749 Chest (cm) 750 751 Children (from 2 to 7 years old) Height (cm) 752 753 83-89 90-97 Children (from 8 to 14 years old) Height (cm) 123128 129134 135140 141146 147152 153164 47-50 51-55 56-63 64-70 71-76 77-82 754 755 Babies Height (cm) 756 757 758 759 760 761 762 763 Usually, retailers only know the weight of the prototyping size. This prototyping size can be different from one company to another, and therefore can be different from the reference size. If this is the case, the weight of the prototype has to be corrected. For that, a correction factor applied on the weight of T-shirt needs to be used. A default value of 5% per one size difference is proposed for the correction factor (Figure 3). A primary data may be used for the correction factor instead of the default data. 764 765 Figure 3 – Examples to explain the use of the reference size and the correction factor 27 766 767 768 769 770 771 772 773 774 775 776 777 778 779 780 781 Example 1: The weight of a women T-shirt A is 190g for prototyping size 92-95. The prototyping size is also the reference size. Then the environmental impacts of this T-shirt will be calculated based on 190g. 782 783 784 785 786 787 788 789 790 791 Calculation of quantities according to the waste 792 𝐴𝑚𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑖𝑛𝑝𝑢𝑡 𝑚𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑖𝑎𝑙𝑛 = 793 794 795 796 797 798 799 800 801 802 803 804 805 806 807 808 809 810 With:  Amount of input textile part for the process n (in kg)  Amount of output textile part for the process n (in kg)  Textile waste for the process n (in %) Example 2: The weight of a women T-shirt B is 180g for prototyping size 96-99, then the environmental impacts of this T-shirt will be calculated based on 171 g (180 - 180 x 5/100) (cf. 1st example in the Figure 3). Example 3: The weight of a women T-shirt C is 170g for prototyping size 84-87, then the environmental impacts of this T-shirt will be calculated based on 187 g (170 + 170 x 10/100) (cf. 2nd example in the Figure 3). The value of the correction factor (5%) is an average value based on the measurements done by the members of the technical secretariat (cf. Annex XI). The value of 5% is also used in the BP X30-323-23: General principles for an environmental communication on mass market products Part 23: Methodology for the environmental impacts assessment of clothing1. The amount of input and output textile material are calculated for each process based on the weight of the textile part of the T-shirt (for the reference size) and the textile losses of each process. The weight of the textile part is the difference between the weight of the T-shirt and the weight of accessories what remains on the T-shirt (as buttons, zips, strass, care label…). For a process n, the amount of input material can be calculated using the following formulas. If the textile waste is expressed as a percentage, it is necessary to use this formula: 𝐴𝑚𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑜𝑢𝑡𝑝𝑢𝑡 𝑚𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑖𝑎𝑙𝑛 1 − 𝑇𝑒𝑥𝑡𝑖𝑙𝑒 𝑤𝑎𝑠𝑡𝑒𝑛 If the textile waste is a quantity (kg of textile waste/kg produced), it is necessary to use this second formula: 𝐴𝑚𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑖𝑛𝑝𝑢𝑡 𝑚𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑖𝑎𝑙𝑛 = 𝐴𝑚𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑜𝑢𝑝𝑢𝑡 𝑚𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑖𝑎𝑙𝑛 × (1 + 𝑇𝑒𝑥𝑡𝑖𝑙𝑒 𝑤𝑎𝑠𝑡𝑒𝑛 ) With:  Amount of input textile part for the process n (in kg)  Amount of output textile part for the process n (in kg)  Textile waste for the process n (in kg/kg) The printing process is expressed in m². Another formula is necessary to calculate the amount of input material for this process. 28 811 812 813 814 815 816 817 818 819 820 821 822 823 824 825 826 827 828 829 830 𝐴𝑚𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑖𝑛𝑝𝑢𝑡 𝑚𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑖𝑎𝑙𝑃𝑟𝑖𝑛𝑡𝑖𝑛𝑔 = 𝐴𝑚𝑜𝑢𝑛𝑡 𝑜𝑓 𝑜𝑢𝑡𝑝𝑢𝑡 𝑚𝑎𝑡𝑒𝑟𝑖𝑎𝑙𝑃𝑟𝑖𝑛𝑡𝑖𝑛𝑔 + (𝑃𝑟𝑖𝑛𝑡𝑒𝑑 𝑠𝑢𝑟𝑓𝑎𝑐𝑒 × 𝑇𝑒𝑥𝑡𝑖𝑙𝑒 𝑤𝑎𝑠𝑡𝑒𝑃𝑟𝑖𝑛𝑡𝑖𝑛𝑔 ) With:     Amount of input material for the process n (in kg) Amount of output material for the process n (in kg) Printed surface (in m²) Textile waste for printing process (in kg/m²) In all cases, the following hypothesis is considered: the amount of input material for the process n is equal to the amount of output material for the process n-1. Example: The weight of the textile part of a men T-shirt is 150g for the reference size. The life cycle of the T-shirt is composed with the following processes: production of the raw materials, spinning, knitting and assembly. During the assembly there is 10% of textile waste. Thus, the amount of input material for assembly is 166,7g (= 150 / (1 – 10%)). This amount also corresponds to the amount of output material of the process prior to assembly, i.e. the knitting. Based on this quantity and the percentage of waste for knitting process, it is possible de calculate the amount of input material for knitting process. 831 832 833 Composition of T-shirt 834 835 836 837 838 839 840 841 842 843 844 845 846 Supply chain (countries of production and transport) 847 848 849 850 851 852 853 854 855 Primary data from industry (e.g. energy consumption, water consumption, etc.) The composition shall be indicated in the final product15. So the information is accessible. The identification of the countries of production shall be carried taking into account at least 70% of the production (main production and restocking), based on the overall order that is placed. In both cases, the determination of the country(ies) of production for the assembly process concerns the entire production of the article, and not only that corresponding to the items sold in Europe. For assembly process, the company implementing the PEFCR should go into more detail (for example: distinguishing restocking of the first supply, or consider only the products sold in Europe). Data from industry could be measured specifically for the T-shirt studied or by the whole consumption of the manufacture. Concerning the wastewater treatment (WWT), the PEFCR mentions that it is necessary to choose between three levels of performance. The three levels of performance are described in the Table 9. 29 856 Table 9 - Emissions after treatment for the 3 levels of performance of the wastewater treatment plant Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD) (mg/L) Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD5) (mg/L) Total Nitrogen (N) (mg/L) Total Phosphorus (P) (mg/L) 857 858 859 860 861 862 863 864 Inefficient performance wastewater treatment Average performance wastewater treatment53 Very efficient performance wastewater treatment54 1079 160 40 352 30 5 37 10 5 4 2 0,1 The level of performance is chosen according to the quantities of emissions after treatment (primary data) (Figure 4). To choose the very efficient performance wastewater treatment, the emissions after treatment need to be below the threshold provided in the Table 9. The same principle is applied for the average performance wastewater treatment. If emissions exceed the threshold of the average performance, it is necessary to select the inefficient performance wastewater treatment plant. 865 866 Figure 4 - Choice of the level of performance for the wastewater treatment 867 Processes that can reasonably be expected to belong to the foreground system 868 869 870 871 872 According to the operational level of control of companies, some processes can be part of foreground (situation 1) or background system (situations 2 and 3). In order to cover the different situations, some processes are both listed in this part and in the part “Requirements regarding background generic data and data gaps”. 873 874 875 876 877 878 879 Spinning process The spinning is a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), only situation 1 / option 1 is available for data collection for the foreground system (Table 10). 30 880 Table 10 - Spinning process (situation 1, option 1) Situation 1 Option 1 Calculated data e Quantity of yarn (kg) Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset) Electricity consumption Heat consumption Heat production (type of energy) Primary data Primary data Primary data Primary data Water consumption Primary data Chemicals consumption Primary data Quantity of waste water Primary data Waste water treatment Primary data Choice between 3 levels of efficiency Type and quantity of air emissions Textile waste (%) Primary data Primary data Waste treatment 881 882 883 884 885 Secondary data The Table 11 describes the scope of the data collection for the spinning process according to the raw materials. Table 11 - Scope of the spinning process Raw materials Cotton yarn Wool yarn Hemp yarn Silk Flax long fibres yarn Steps taken into account and activity data (AD) associated Spinning AD: electricity, lubricating oil Spinning AD: electricity, lubricating oil, water Reeling AD: water, heat, diesel, electricity, natural gas, hard coal Wet spinning AD: electricity, water, lubricating oil, wastewater treatment Polyester yarn PA yarn PP yarn Acrylic yarn Spinning AD: electricity, lubricating oil Synthetic fibres scouring AD: tap water, alkali, chelating agent, ethoxylated alcohols, ammonia (liquid), stabilizer, electricity, heat, wastewater treatment Chlorofibres yarn e Formulas are available in the section « Calculation of quantities according to the waste » in the chapter 6.3 Requirements regarding foreground specific data collection 31 Spinning AD: electricity Viscose yarn Synthetic fibres scouring AD: tap water, alkali, chelating agent, ethoxylated alcohols, ammonia (liquid), stabilizer, electricity, heat, wastewater treatment Melt-spinning FOY/POY AD: water, lubricating oil, electricity, VOC emissions, waste treatment, waste water treatment Texturizing AD: electricity, water, wastewater treatment Polyester filament Thermofixation AD: electricity Synthetic fibres scouring AD: tap water, alkali, chelating agent, ethoxylated alcohols, ammonia (liquid), stabilizer, electricity, heat, wastewater treatment Wet spinning AD: dimethyacetamide, electricity Texturizing AD: electricity, water, wastewater treatment Elastane Thermofixation AD: electricity Synthetic fibres scouring AD: tap water, alkali, chelating agent, ethoxylated alcohols, ammonia (liquid), stabilizer, electricity, heat, wastewater treatment 886 887 888 889 890 891 Sizing process The sizing is not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), two options are available for the situation 1 (Table 12). Table 12 - Sizing process (situation 1, options 1 and 2) Situation 1 Option 1 Option 2 Calculated data e Calculated data e Technology: natural or synthetic fiber sizing Primary data Primary data Electricity consumption Primary data Secondary data Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset) Primary data Secondary data Heat consumption Primary data Secondary data Heat production (type of energy) Primary data Secondary data Quantity of yarn 32 Water consumption Primary data Secondary data Quantity of waste water Primary data Secondary data Waste water treatment Primary data Secondary data Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value: 0% 46 Secondary data Chemicals consumption Secondary data Secondary data Waste treatment Secondary data Secondary data Textile waste (%) 892 893 894 895 896 897 898 899 900 901 902 903 904 905 906 907 908 Note: the treatment of waste has limited impact. The document on “Data requirements in Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCRs)” mentions that “In order to simplify the amount of information to be collected, and having in mind the materiality principle, the TS can decide to limit the activity data to those that are known to drive the environmental impacts related to each relevant process”. Thus, it is possible to substitute the default value with a company-specific activity data for the “textile waste”. Note: the chemicals consumption is a secondary data (coming from the LCI datasets) according to the type of sizing (natural or synthetic fiber sizing). Knitting process The knitting is a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), only situation 1 / option 1 is available for data collection for the foreground system (Table 13). Table 13 - Knitting process (situation 1, option 1) Situation 1 Option 1 Quantity of knitted fabric (kg) 909 910 911 912 913 914 915 Calculated data e Electricity consumption Primary data Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset) Primary data Textile waste (%) Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value: 3,4% 46 Waste treatment Secondary data Note: the treatment of waste has limited impact. The document on “Data requirements in Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCRs)” mentions that “In order to simplify the amount of information to be collected, and having in mind the materiality principle, the TS can decide to limit the activity data to those that are known to drive the environmental impacts related to each relevant process”. Thus, it is possible to substitute the default value with a company-specific activity data for the “textile waste”. 33 916 917 918 919 920 921 922 Dyeing process The dyeing is a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), only situation 1 / option 1 is available for data collection for the foreground system (Table 14). Table 14 - Dyeing process (situation 1, option 1) Situation 1 Option 1 Quantity of dyed fabric (kg) Electricity consumption Primary data Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset) Primary data Heat consumption Primary data Heat production (type of energy) Primary data Water consumption Primary data Type of dyeing technology Primary data Quantity of waste water Primary data Waste water treatment Type and quantity of air emissions Textile waste (%) 923 924 925 926 927 928 929 930 931 Calculated data e Primary data Choice between 3 levels of efficiency Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value: VOC: 1,125 g/kg 46 Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value: 0% 46 Chemicals consumption Secondary data Waste treatment Secondary data Note: the treatment of waste and air emissions have limited impact. The document on “Data requirements in Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCRs)” mentions that “In order to simplify the amount of information to be collected, and having in mind the materiality principle, the TS can decide to limit the activity data to those that are known to drive the environmental impacts related to each relevant process”. Thus, it is possible to substitute the default value with a company-specific activity data for the “textile waste” and “type and quantity of air emissions”. 34 932 933 934 935 Note: the chemicals consumption is a secondary data (coming from the LCI datasets) according to the type of dyeing (e.g. yarn, fabric or apparel dyeing). 936 937 938 939 940 941 Printing process The scope of the data collection covers also the desizing and the softening processes. The printing is not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), two options are available for the situation 1 (Table 15). Table 15 – Printing process (situation 1, options 1 and 2) Situation 1 Option 1 Option 2 Printed surface (m²) Primary data Primary data Electricity consumption Primary data Secondary data Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset) Primary data Heat consumption Production of heat (type of energy) Water consumption Primary data Type of printing technology Primary data Quantity of waste water Primary data Waste water treatment Type and quantity of air emissions Textile waste (kg/m²) Chemicals consumption Waste treatment Primary data Primary data Primary data Choice between 3 levels of efficiency Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value for substantive printing: VOC: 0,091 g/m² Formaldehyde: 0,0025 µg/m² Default value for pigment printing: VOC: 0,693 g/m² Formaldehyde: 0,011 g/m² Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value: 0% Secondary data Secondary data 942 35 Secondary data (China (44%), Bangladesh (28%), Turkey (17%), Europe (11%)) Secondary data Secondary data (natural gas) Secondary data Possibility to substitute with supply-chain specific dataset Default value: 50% fix-washed printing, 50% pigment printing 5 Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data 943 944 945 946 947 948 949 950 951 952 953 954 955 Note: the treatment of waste and air emissions have limited impact. The document on “Data requirements in Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCRs)” mentions that “In order to simplify the amount of information to be collected, and having in mind the materiality principle, the TS can decide to limit the activity data to those that are known to drive the environmental impacts related to each relevant process”. Thus, it is possible to substitute the default value with a company-specific activity data for the “textile waste” and “type and quantity of air emissions”. 956 957 958 959 960 961 Finishing process Note: the chemicals consumption is a secondary data (coming from the LCI datasets) according to the type of printing (e.g. substantive or pigment printing). The scope of the data collection covers also the desizing, the softening and the singeing processes. The finishing is not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), two options are available for the situation 1 (Table 16). Table 16 - Finishing process (situation 1, options 1 and 2) Situation 1 Quantity of finished fabric (kg) Electricity consumption Option 1 Option 2 Calculated data e Calculated data e Primary data Secondary data Heat consumption Heat production (type of energy) Water consumption Type of finishing Primary data Primary data Primary data Secondary data (China (44%), Bangladesh (28%), Turkey (17%), Europe (11%)) Secondary data Secondary data (natural gas) Secondary data Primary data Quantity of waste water Primary data Secondary data Waste water treatment Primary data Choice between 3 levels of efficiency Secondary data (average waste water treatment) Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset) Primary data Primary data 962 36 Type and quantity of air emissions Textile waste (%) Chemicals consumption Waste treatment 963 964 965 966 967 968 969 970 971 972 973 974 975 Possibility to substitute with a companyspecific activity data Default value for antibacterial finishing: VOC: 1,23 g/kg Formaldehyde: 0,45 g/kg Default value for stainresistant finishing: VOC: 0,92 g/kg Formaldehyde: 0,36 g/kg Possibility to substitute with a companyspecific activity data Default value: 0% Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Note: air emissions and the textile waste have limited impact, thus, it is possible to substitute the default value with a company-specific activity data. Note: the chemicals consumption is a secondary data (coming from the LCI datasets) according to the type of finishing. Assembly process The assembly is a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), only situation 1 / option 1 is available for data collection for the foreground system (Table 17). Table 17 - Assembly process (situation 1, option 1) Situation 1 Quantity of article: 1 article (defined in the functional unit) 976 977 978 Option 1 Secondary data (1 article) Electricity consumption Primary data Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset) Primary data Textile waste (%) Primary data Waste treatment Secondary data Assembly includes cutting, sewing, ironing, trimming application, folding and all the production steps prior to packaging. 37 979 980 981 982 983 984 Production of accessories The production of accessories is not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), two options are available for the situation 1 (Table 18). Table 18 - Production of accessories (situation 1, options 1 and 2) Situation 1 Option 1 Option 2 Quantity of material Primary data Primary data Type of material (for composition label, brand tag, button, zip, strass, snaps) Primary data Primary data Type of transport Distance 985 986 987 988 989 990 991 992 993 994 995 996 Possibility to substitute with supply-chain specific dataset Default value: Truck Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value: 500 km Secondary data Secondary data Two categories of accessories are considered: - the accessories what remains on the T-shirt (e.g. buttons, zips, strass, care label…) (they are part of the bill of materials), the temporary labels on the T-shirt (which are removed before use of the product): e.g. price tag, cardboard brand tag. Production of packaging The production of packaging is not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), two options are available for the situation 1 (Table 19). Table 19 - Production of packaging (situation 1, options 1 and 2) Situation 1 Quantity of material Type of packaging (primary, secondary or tertiary in case they exist) - Type of material (composition in case mix of material) Type of transport Distance Option 1 Option 2 Primary data Primary data Primary data Primary data Possibility to substitute with supply-chain specific dataset Default value: Truck Possibility to substitute with a companyspecific activity data Default value: 1500 km 38 Secondary data Secondary data 997 998 999 1000 1001 1002 1003 1004 1005 1006 1007 1008 1009 1010 1011 1012 Note: if a packaging is used for several T-shirts (e.g. a corrugated cardboard is used for 30 Tshirts), it is necessary to divide the total weight of the packaging by the number of products it contains. Transport processes The Table 20 describes the data collection for the following transport processes: - Transport of raw materials (T-RM) - Transport of yarn (transport T1) - Transport of finished fabric (transport T5) - Transport between assembly and warehouse (transport T6) These transport processes are most relevant processes (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), only situation 1 / option 1 is available for data collection for the foreground system (Table 20). Table 20 - Transport processes (T-RM, T1, T5 and T6) (situation 1, option 1) Situation 1 Option 1 Weight transported 1013 1014 1015 1016 1017 1018 1019 1020 1021 1022 1023 1024 1025 Calculated data e, f Distance in truck Primary data Distance in boat Primary data Distance in plane Primary data Distance in train Primary data % cargo amount Secondary data Rate of return empty Secondary data Type of truck (EU4, EU5…) Secondary data The Table 21 describes the data collection for the following transport processes: - Transport of knitted fabric (transport T2) - Transport of dyed fabric (transport T3) - Transport of printed fabric (transport T4) These transport processes are not most relevant processes (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), two options are available for the situation 1 (Table 21). The definition of the quantity transported for each transport step is available in the section “Weight transported” in the chapter 6.7 Logistics f 39 1026 Table 21 - Transport processes (T2, T3 and T4) (situation 1, options 1 and 2) Situation 1 Option 1 Option 2 Calculated data e, f Calculated data e, f Distance in truck Primary data Secondary data Distance in boat Primary data Secondary data Distance in plane Primary data Secondary data Distance in train Primary data Secondary data % cargo amount Secondary data Secondary data Rate of return empty Secondary data Secondary data Type of truck (EU4, EU5…) Secondary data Secondary data Weight transported 1027 1028 1029 1030 1031 1032 The Table 22 describes the data collection for the transport between warehouse and shop (transport T7). This process is not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), two options are available for the situation 1. Table 22 – Transport between warehouse and shop (transport T7) (situation 1, options 1 and 2) Situation 1 Weight transported (Note: may be defined based on the weight of the finished product and the packaging) % Rate of shop or Internet selling Shop selling Type of transport for shop selling Distance % cargo amount Rate of return empty Option 1 Option 2 Calculated data e, f Calculated data e, f Primary data Secondary data (93% of shop selling, 7% of internet and correspondence sales) Secondary data (truck) Secondary data (1200 km) Secondary data Secondary data Primary data Primary data Secondary data Secondary data 1033 40 Internet selling Type of transport for Internet selling (van, truck) Primary data Secondary data (van and truck) Distance (it is necessary to consider also the return trip) Primary data Secondary data (688 km by truck and 16,8 km by van for 3.63 products (69%)) Rate of customer return (%) Primary data Secondary data (17,5% of return) Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data % cargo amount Rate of return empty 1034 1035 1036 1037 1038 1039 1040 1041 1042 Note: if several deliveries are made during one trip, it is necessary to divide the distance by the number of delivered products. Warehouse (distribution center) The distribution center is not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), two options are available for the situation 1 (Table 23). Table 23 – Warehouse (situation 1, options 1 and 2) Situation 1 Volume occupied by the product (m3) Infrastructure (building and parking) (m²) Energy consumption Water consumption Storage capacity (m3) Duration of storage (weeks) 1043 1044 1045 1046 1047 1048 Option 1 Option 2 Primary data Secondary data Primary data Secondary data Primary data Primary data Primary data Primary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Retail place The retail place is not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), two options are available for the situation 1 (Table 24). Table 24 - Retail place (situation 1, options 1 and 2) Situation 1 Volume occupied by the product (m3) Infrastructure (building and parking) (m²) Energy consumption Water consumption Storage capacity (m3) Option 1 Option 2 Primary data Secondary data Primary data Secondary data Primary data Primary data Primary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data 41 Duration of storage (weeks) Number of equipments (tables, chairs, IT equipment, carts, steel shelves…) Quantity of packaging film for repacking Type of film 1049 1050 1051 1052 1053 1054 Primary data Secondary data Primary data Secondary data Primary data Secondary data Primary data Secondary data Services The services are not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), two options are available for the situation 1 (Table 25). Table 25 – Services (situation 1, options 1 and 2) Situation 1 Weight of T-shirt Cost for security (Euro/kg of product) Cost for accounting (Euro/kg of product) Cost for IT services (Euro/kg of product) Cost for legal affairs (Euro/kg of product) Cost for marketing (Euro/kg of product) Option 1 Primary data Option 2 Primary data Primary data Secondary data Primary data Secondary data Primary data Secondary data Primary data Secondary data Primary data Secondary data 1055 1056 6.4 Requirements regarding background generic data and data gaps 1057 1058 1059 1060 1061 1062 1063 1064 1065 1066 1067 [Specify: i) Unit processes for which secondary generic data may be used (e.g. background processes) ii) Secondary generic data for each process. iii) Semi-specific data for which default values are proposed but company can replace it by better ones if they have it. Semi-specific data are significant regarding each environmental indicator but not easily accessible for companies. Semi-specific data can be replaced by specific data when available. Semi-specific data should be based on a worst case scenario. iv) Provide generic substance to replace the actual substance in the BOM based on relevant properties (e.g. physical, chemical, processing, etc). 1068 1069 1070 1071 1072 1073 Production of textile raw materials Processes belonging to the background system The production of textile raw materials is a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), the situation 2 / option 2, and the situation 3 / option 1 are available for data collection for the background system (Table 26). 42 1074 Table 26 - Production of textile raw materials (situation 2, option 2 and situation 3, option 1) Situation 2 Situation 3 Option 2 Option 1 Quantity (kg) (for each raw material) Calculated data e Calculated data e % of each material in the final product Primary data Primary data % of recycled material (R1) Primary data Primary data Type of material (selection of the raw materials) e.g. organic cotton, conventional cotton, wool, virgin polyester, chemical recycled polyester, mechanical recycled polyester… Primary data Primary data Possibility to substitute with supply-chain specific dataset Default value: GLO Secondary data (GLO) Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset or raw materials LCI dataset) 1075 1076 1077 1078 1079 1080 1081 1082 1083 1084 1085 1086 1087 1088 1089 1090 1091 1092 1093 1094 1095 1096 1097 1098 1099 1100 1101 Note: it means that the composition is mandatory (for the textile part of the product, the bill of materials and the quantity are known). No cut-off or simplification is considered in term of composition. Concerning the production of raw materials, a global data should be used for each raw material. If PEF-compliant inventories are developed by industry and freely available in a Life Cycle Data Network node, they may be used in the studies (instead of global inventories proposed by default). In that case, data developed by industry should have the same scope as default data (ex. production of cotton fibres and ginning). If necessary, several PEF compliant inventories can be used to replace the default dataset (e.g. one dataset for the production of cotton fibres and a second dataset for the ginning). Spinning process The spinning is a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), the situation 2 / options 1 and 2, and the situation 3 / option 1 are available for data collection for the background system (Table 27). 43 1102 Table 27 - Spinning process (situation 2, options 1 and 2, and situation 3, option 1) Situation 2 Quantity of yarn (kg) Situation 3 Option 1 Option 2 Option 1 Calculated data e Calculated data e Calculated data e Primary data Primary data Technology - Level 1 (function of the raw materials) (choice of the corresponding dataset for the process, e.g. spinning of cotton, spinning of polyester, spinning of viscose…) Possibility to substitute with supply-chain specific dataset Default value: cotton yarn, carded process; wool yarn, carded process; polyester filament Possibility to substitute with supply-chain specific dataset Default value: cf. Table 28 Technology - Level 2 (carded vs combed, filament vs staple fibres) Secondary data Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset) Primary data Electricity consumption Primary data Secondary data Secondary data Heat consumption Primary data Secondary data Secondary data Heat production (type of energy) Primary data Secondary data Secondary data Water consumption Primary data Secondary data Secondary data Chemicals consumption Primary data Secondary data Secondary data Quantity of waste water Primary data Secondary data Secondary data Waste water treatment Primary data Choice between 3 levels of efficiency Secondary data Secondary data Type and quantity of air emissions Primary data Secondary data Secondary data Textile waste (%) Primary data Secondary data Secondary data Waste treatment Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data 1103 44 Secondary data 1104 1105 1106 1107 1108 For the situation 2, option 2 and the situation 3, option 1, the secondary data (e.g. for electricity consumption) and the default data (for the country of production) are function of the choices done for the technology (levels 1 and 2) (cf. Table 28). Table 28 - Default value for spinning process Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset) Technology Spinning process, production of cotton yarn, carded process Spinning process, production of cotton yarn, combed yarn Spinning process, production of yarn (produced with staple fibres) for synthetic fibres (polyester, polyamide, polypropylene, acrylic, chlorofibre) Spinning process, production of viscose yarn Spinning process, production of wool yarn, carded process Spinning process, production of wool yarn, combed yarn Spinning process, production of flax yarn Spinning process, production of silk yarn Spinning process, production of hemp yarn Spinning process, production of polyester filament Spinning process, production of elastane filament 1109 1110 1111 1112 1113 1114 1115 1116 1117 1118 1119 1120 China (63%) India (23%) Pakistan (5%) Indonesia (4%) Turkey (4%) 5 China (81,3%) India (13,3%) Japon (2,0 %) Turkey (1,8%) Thailand (1,7%) 33 Sizing process The sizing is not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), situations 2 and 3 are considered together for data collection (Table 29). As indicated in the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), it is necessary to use a default secondary dataset with DQR ≤4.0. For sizing process, the quantity of yarn is a calculated data. The other activity data are taken into account in the secondary data (Table 29). Table 29 - Sizing process (situations 2 and 3) Situations 2 and 3 Quantity of yarn 1121 1122 1123 1124 1125 1126 Calculated data e Knitting process The knitting is a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), the situation 2 / options 1 and 2, and the situation 3 / option 1 are available for data collection for the background system (Table 30). 45 1127 Table 30 - Knitting process (situation 2, options 1 and 2 and situation 3, option 1) Situation 2 Option 1 Option 2 Option 1 Calculated data e Calculated data e Calculated data e Primary data Secondary data Secondary data Primary data Possibility to substitute with supply-chain specific dataset Default value: China (44%), Bangladesh (28%), Turkey (17%), Europe (11%) 5 Secondary data Textile waste (%) Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value: 3,4% 46 Secondary data Secondary data Waste treatment Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Quantity of knitted fabric (kg) Electricity consumption Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset) 1128 1129 1130 1131 1132 1133 1134 1135 1136 1137 1138 1139 1140 1141 1142 1143 1144 1145 1146 1147 1148 1149 Situation 3 Note: the treatment of waste has limited impact. The document on “Data requirements in Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCRs)” mentions that “In order to simplify the amount of information to be collected, and having in mind the materiality principle, the TS can decide to limit the activity data to those that are known to drive the environmental impacts related to each relevant process”. Thus, it is possible to substitute the default value with a company-specific activity data for the “textile waste”. Dyeing process The dyeing is a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), the situation 2 / options 1 and 2, and the situation 3 / option 1 are available for data collection for the background system (Table 31). 46 1150 Table 31 - Dyeing process (situation 2, options 1 and 2 and situation 3, option 1) Situation 2 Situation 3 Option 1 Option 2 Option 1 Quantity of dyed fabric (kg) Calculated data e Calculated data e Calculated data e Electricity consumption Primary data Secondary data Secondary data Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset) Primary data Possibility to substitute with supply-chain specific dataset Default value: China (44%), Bangladesh (28%), Turkey (17%), Europe (11%) 5 Secondary data Heat consumption Primary data Secondary data Secondary data Heat production (type of energy) Primary data Secondary data Secondary data Water consumption Primary data Secondary data Secondary data Type of dyeing technology Primary data Possibility to substitute with supply-chain specific dataset Default value: mix between the technologies fabric dyeing process (80%) and yarn dyeing process (20%) 5 Secondary data (mix between the technologies) Quantity of waste water Primary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Waste water treatment Type and quantity of air emissions Textile waste (%) Primary data Choice between 3 levels of efficiency Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value for dyeing: VOC: 1,125 g/kg 46 Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value: 0% 46 Chemicals consumption Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Waste treatment Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data 1151 1152 47 1153 1154 1155 1156 1157 1158 Printing process The printing is not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), situations 2 and 3 are considered together for data collection (Table 32). Table 32 – Printing process (situations 2 and 3) Situations 2 and 3 Printed surface (m²) Electricity consumption Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset) Heat consumption Production of heat (type of energy) Water consumption Type of printing technology Primary data Secondary data Secondary data (China (44%), Bangladesh (28%), Turkey (17%), Europe (11%)) Secondary data Secondary data (natural gas) Secondary data Secondary data (50% fix-washed printing, 50% pigment printing) Chemicals consumption Secondary data Quantity of waste water Secondary data Waste water treatment Secondary data Type and quantity of air emissions Secondary data Textile waste (kg/m²) Secondary data Waste treatment Secondary data 1159 1160 1161 1162 1163 1164 1165 1166 1167 1168 Finishing process The finishing is not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), situations 2 and 3 are considered together for data collection (Table 33). 48 1169 Table 33 - Finishing process (situations 2 and 3) Situations 2 and 3 Quantity of finished fabric (kg) Calculated data e Electricity consumption Secondary data Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset) Heat consumption Heat production (type of energy) Water consumption Type of finishing 1170 1171 1172 1173 1174 1175 1176 1177 Secondary data (China (44%), Bangladesh (28%), Turkey (17%), Europe (11%)) Secondary data Secondary data (natural gas) Secondary data Primary data Chemicals consumption Secondary data Quantity of waste water Secondary data Waste water treatment Secondary data (average waste water treatment) Type and quantity of air emissions Secondary data Textile waste (%) Secondary data Waste treatment Secondary data Assembly process The assembly is a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), the situation 2 / options 1 and 2, and the situation 3 / option 1 are available for data collection for the background system (Table 34). Table 34 - Assembly process (situation 2, options 2 and 3 and situation 3, option 1) Situation 2 Situation 3 Option 1 Secondary data (1 article) Option 2 Secondary data (1 article) Option 1 Secondary data (1 article) Electricity consumption Primary data Secondary data Secondary data Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset) Primary data Primary data Primary data Textile waste (%) Primary data Secondary data Secondary data Waste treatment Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Quantity of article: 1 article (defined in the functional unit) 49 1178 1179 Assembly includes cutting, sewing, ironing, trimming application, folding and all the production steps prior to packaging. 1180 1181 1182 1183 1184 1185 1186 Production of accessories The production of accessories is not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), situations 2 and 3 are considered together for data collection (Table 35). Table 35 - Production of accessories (situations 2 and 3) Situations 2 and 3 - 1187 1188 1189 1190 1191 1192 1193 1194 1195 1196 1197 1198 1199 Quantity of material Primary data Type of material (for composition label, brand tag, button, zip, strass, snaps) Primary data Type of transport Secondary data Distance Secondary data Production of packaging The production of packaging is not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), situations 2 and 3 are considered together for data collection (Table 36). As indicated in the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), it is necessary to use a default secondary dataset with DQR ≤4.0. For the production of packaging, the quantity of material and the type of packaging are primary data (Table 36). Table 36 - Production of packaging (situations 2 and 3) Situations 2 and 3 Quantity of material Type of packaging (primary, secondary or tertiary in case they exist) - Type of material (composition in case mix of material) 1200 1201 1202 1203 1204 1205 Primary data Primary data Note: if a packaging is used for several T-shirts (e.g. a corrugated cardboard is used for 30 Tshirts), it is necessary to divide the total weight of the packaging by the number of products it contains. 50 1206 1207 1208 1209 1210 1211 1212 1213 1214 1215 1216 1217 1218 Transport processes The Table 37 describes the data collection for the following transport processes: - Transport of raw materials (T-RM) - Transport of yarn (transport T1) - Transport of finished fabric (transport T5) - Transport between assembly and warehouse (transport T6) These transport processes are most relevant processes (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), the situation 2 / options 1 and 2, and the situation 3 / option 1 are available for data collection for the background system (Table 37). Table 37 - Transport processes (T-RM, T1, T5 and T6) (situation 2, options 1 and 2 and situation 3, option 1) Situation 2 Weight transported Situation 3 Option 1 Option 2 Option 1 Calculated data e, f Calculated data e, f Calculated data e, f Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value: cf. Table 54 Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value: cf. Table 54 Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value: cf. Table 54 Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value: cf. Table 54 Distance in truck Primary data Distance in boat Primary data Distance in plane Primary data Distance in train Primary data % cargo amount Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Rate of return empty Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Type of truck (EU4, EU5…) Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data 1219 1220 1221 51 Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data 1222 1223 1224 1225 1226 1227 1228 1229 1230 1231 The Table 38 describes the data collection for the following transport processes: - Transport of knitted fabric (transport T2) - Transport of dyed fabric (transport T3) - Transport of printed fabric (transport T4) These transport processes are not most relevant processes (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), situations 2 and 3 are considered together for data collection (Table 38). Table 38 - Transport processes (T2, T3 and T4) (situations 2 and 3) Situations 2 and 3 Weight transported 1232 1233 1234 1235 1236 1237 Calculated data e, f Distance in truck Secondary data Distance in boat Secondary data Distance in plane Secondary data Distance in train Secondary data % cargo amount Secondary data Rate of return empty Secondary data Type of truck (EU4, EU5…) Secondary data The Table 39 describes the data collection for the transport between warehouse and shop (transport T7). This process is not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), situations 2 and 3 are considered together for data collection. Table 39 - Transport between warehouse and shop (transport T7) (situations 2 and 3) Situations 2 and 3 Weight transported (Note: may be defined based on the weight of the finished product and the packaging) % Rate of shop or Internet selling Shop selling Type of transport for shop selling Distance % cargo amount Rate of return empty Calculated data e, f Secondary data (93% of shop selling, 7% of internet and correspondence sales) Secondary data (truck) Secondary data (1200 km) Secondary data Secondary data 52 Internet selling Type of transport for Internet selling (van, truck) Secondary data (van and truck) Distance (it is necessary to consider also the return trip) Secondary data (688 km by truck and 16,8 km by van for 3.63 products (69%)) Rate of customer return (%) Secondary data (17,5% of return) % cargo amount Rate of return empty 1238 1239 1240 1241 1242 1243 1244 Secondary data Secondary data The Table 40 describes the data collection for the customer travel. This process is a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), the situation 2 / option 2, and the situation 3 / option 1 are available for data collection for the background system. Table 40 - Customer travel (situations 2 and 3) Weight transported % rate shop and Internet buying (cf. information asked for transport T7) Shop selling Type of transport for shop buying (Bus, bicycle, car, motorcycle, subway) Distance Situation 2 Situation 3 Option 2 Option 1 Calculated data e, f Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value: 93% of shop selling, 7% of internet and correspondence sales 33 Calculated data e, f Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Internet selling Distance (car) Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value: 4,17 km by car Secondary data 33 % of return 1245 1246 Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value: 17,5% of returns 33 Secondary data Note: it is necessary to consider also the return trip for the customer travel. 53 1247 Warehouse (distribution center) 1248 1249 1250 1251 1252 The distribution center is not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), situations 2 and 3 are considered together for data collection (Table 41). Table 41 - Warehouse (situations 2 and 3) Situations 2 and 3 Volume occupied by the product (m3) Infrastructure (building and parking) (m²) Energy consumption Water consumption Storage capacity (m3) Duration of storage (weeks) 1253 1254 1255 1256 1257 1258 1259 Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Retail place The retail place is not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), situations 2 and 3 are considered together for data collection (Table 42). Table 42 - Retail place (situations 2 and 3) Situations 2 and 3 Volume occupied by the product (m3) Infrastructure (building and parking) (m²) Energy consumption Water consumption Storage capacity (m3) Duration of storage (weeks) Number of equipments (tables, chairs, IT equipment, carts, steel shelves…) Quantity of packaging film for repacking Type of film 1260 1261 1262 1263 1264 1265 1266 Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Services The services are not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), situations 2 and 3 are considered together for data collection (Table 43). 54 1267 Table 43 - Services (situations 2 and 3) Weight of T-shirt Cost for security (Euro/kg of product) Cost for accounting (Euro/kg of product) Cost for IT services (Euro/kg of product) Cost for legal affairs (Euro/kg of product) Cost for marketing (Euro/kg of product) 1268 1269 1270 1271 1272 1273 1274 1275 Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Secondary data Washing process The washing is a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), the situation 2 / option 2, and the situation 3 / option 1 are available for data collection (Table 44). Table 44 - Washing process (situations 2 and 3) Weight of T-shirt Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset) Type of washing (gentle or normal washing) Temperature of washing Washing machine 1276 1277 1278 1279 1280 1281 1282 Situations 2 and 3 Primary data Situation 2 Situation 3 Option 2 Option 1 Primary data Primary data Possibility to substitute with supply-chain specific dataset (ratios of sales) Default value: EU Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value: "normal" cycle Secondary data (40°C) Secondary data Secondary data (EU) Secondary data ("normal" cycle) Secondary data (40°C) Secondary data Drying process The drying is a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), the situation 2 / option 2, and the situation 3 / option 1 are available for data collection (Table 45). 55 1283 Table 45 - Drying process (situations 2 and 3) Weight of T-shirt Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset) Use of tumble drier: Yes / No % of drying in tumble drier 1284 1285 1286 1287 1288 1289 1290 1291 Situation 2 Option 2 Primary data Possibility to substitute with supply-chain specific dataset (ratios of sales) Default value: EU Possibility to substitute with a company-specific activity data Default value: use of tumble drier is allowed Secondary data (10%) Situation 3 Option 1 Primary data Secondary data (EU) Secondary data (use of tumble drier is allowed) Secondary data (10%) Ironing process The ironing is a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), the situation 2 / option 2, and the situation 3 / option 1 are available for data collection (Table 46). Table 46 - Ironing process (situations 2 and 3) Situation 2 Situation 3 Option 2 Option 1 Quantity of article: 1 article Secondary data Secondary data (defined in the functional unit) (1 article) (1 article) Possibility to substitute with Country (choice of the supply-chain specific Secondary data electricity LCI dataset) dataset (ratios of (EU) sales) Default value: EU Possibility to Possibility to substitute with a substitute with a company-specific company-specific Use of ironing: Yes / No activity data activity data Default value:ironing Default value: ironing is allowed is allowed Secondary data Secondary data Temperature of ironing (takes into account in (takes into account in energy consumption) energy consumption) Secondary data Secondary data Time ironing (30 sec) 5 (30 sec) 5 1292 1293 1294 1295 1296 1297 1298 T-shirt end-of-life The T-shirt end-of-life is a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), the situation 2 / option 2, and the situation 3 / option 1 are available for data collection (Table 47). 56 1299 Table 47 – T-shirt end-of-life (situation 2, option 2 and situation 3, option 1) Weight of T-shirt Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset) 1300 1301 1302 1303 1304 1305 1306 1307 1308 1309 1310 1311 1312 1313 1314 1315 1316 1317 Situation 2 Option 2 Primary data Possibility to substitute with supply-chain specific dataset (ratios of sales) Default value: EU Situation 3 Option 1 Primary data Secondary data (EU) Cardboard end-of-life Cardboard end-of-life makes reference to the secondary packaging used to transport the T-shirt at the warehouse and retail place. The cardboard end-of-life is a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), the situation 2 / option 2, and the situation 3 / option 1 are available for data collection (Table 48). Table 48 - Cardboard end-of-life (situation 2, option 2 and situation 3, option 1) Situation 2 Option 2 Situation 3 Option 1 Weight of cardboard Primary data Primary data Country (choice of the electricity LCI dataset) Possibility to substitute with supply-chain specific dataset (ratios of sales) Default value: EU Secondary data (EU) Plastic bag end-of-life Plastic end-of-life makes reference to the primary packaging used to distribute the T-shirt at the retail place. The plastic bag end-of-life is not a most relevant process (cf. 6.1 Screening step). According to the Data Needs Matrix (Table 4), situations 2 and 3 are considered together for data collection (Table 49). It is necessary to use a default secondary dataset with DQR ≤4.0. Table 49 – Plastic bag end-of-life (situations 2 and 3) Situations 2 and 3 Weight of plastic bag Primary data 1318 1319 1320 1321 1322 1323 1324 1325 1326 1327 Secondary generic data All generic data used in the screening are provided in Annex IX. The final list of datasets (Annex IX) might change as a result of the tendering process and the remodeling exercise. Differences are observed between the description of the representative products and the modelling of these products due to data availability, for instance: - For polyamide, polypropylene and chlorofibres, European data are used instead of global data for the production of fibres. 57 1328 1329 1330 - The adhesive sticker used for price tag was replaced by a cardboard tag in the modelling. Polyurethane is used to model elastane as elastane is a man-made fibre containing at least 85% polyurethane16. 1331 6.5 Data gaps 1332 1333 1334 1335 1336 1337 1338 1339 1340 [Specify: i) potential data gaps and guidance for filling these gaps, ii) Sectorial conservative default value to be used to fill the gaps] Companies have the responsibility to collect accuracy data; however this process could be laborious in certain cases where they do not have access to some information. In some cases, default values are proposed and it is possible to substitute the default value with companyspecific activity data or with supply-chain specific dataset. Therefore, no data gaps are foreseen. Difficulties could possibly intervene for the primary data. 1341 6.6 Use stage 1342 1343 1344 1345 1346 1347 1348 1349 1350 1351 1352 1353 1354 1355 1356 1357 1358 1359 1360 1361 [Specify:  The use-stage scenarios to be included in the study,  The time span to be considered for the use stage. The lifetime shall be determined according to verifiable technical performance and should not be related to other alike parameters (e.g. if a paint can technically last 10 years, the lifetime to consider is 10 years even if the sector knows that users paint their home every other 5 years. However, for transparency reasons, a reference to scenarios that are considered to be close to real use (e.g. inform that a repaint is expected by the average user pattern every 5 years) should be made,  The use phase scenario shall be based on the best-known average situation. In case of different user patterns, more than one scenarios should be provided.] The modelling of the use phase with primary data is done according to the type of cleaning detailed on the care label. Washing The “T-shirts” PEFCR assumes that T-shirts have a standard lifetime of 52 washings5. Table 50 – Data for washing Washing temperature Energy consumption Water consumption Kg of laundry Type and quantity of detergent Normal washing scenario 40°C17 0,638 kWh/wash17 11,11 L / kg17 4,5 kg17 8,3 g for laundry detergent liquid / kg 8,3 g for laundry detergent powder / kg Information used: 75 mL for laundry detergent liquid / wash17 75 g for laundry detergent powder/ wash Laundry detergent liquid (50%) / Laundry detergent powder (50%) 1362 58 1363 1364 1365 1366 1367 1368 1369 For gentle washing, all the data is retained as normal washing only the electricity consumption is divided by two (0,319 kWh/wash)1. 1370 The energy consumption is 2.01 kWh/cycle (full load of 6 kg)20. 1371 1372 1373 1374 1375 1376 1377 1378 1379 1380 1381 1382 1383 1384 1385 1386 1387 1388 1389 1390 1391 1392 1393 1394 1395 1396 1397 1398 1399 1400 1401 1402 Ironing Drying The drying depends on the composition. If drying is allowed (according to the care label), we consider 90% of air drying and 10% of tumble drier (the use rate is defined in the Annex XI). If ironing is allowed (according to the care label), the ironing is modeled with this value: 1.6 kWh per hour1, 22. An ironing time of 3 min is indicated in the IMPROTEX study22. However, the time was considered too long in view of the product (product with simple ironing compared to shirts, T-shirts are not always ironed depending on consumers’ habits). An ironing time of 1 min is assumed. Considering that 50% of T-shirts are ironed33, the ironing time is 30 sec. Approach to modelling the use stage Two approaches are described to modelling the use phase55. Both approaches show an interest for the TS therefore there is not tendency to any approach at the moment.  Main Function approach: all activities linked to the main function of the product are taken into account. The interest of Main Function approach is to have the whole environmental impact of the use phase.  Delta approach: only the additional activities and processes shall be allocated to the product. The allocation method consists in taking all associated products (washing, washing machine, drying, ironing) in the system and allocating the excess consumption of these associated products to the product which is considered responsible for this excess. This requires a reference consumption to be defined for each associated product in the PEFCR. The reference consumption refers to the minimum consumption that is essential for providing the function. This approach can only be used for increasing impacts and to account for additional consumptions above the reference. The interest of the Delta approach is to consider only the excess consumption therefore the impact will be reduced. The mandatory processes and their criteria define the reference scenario, concretely the type of washing (normal or gentle washing) and the weight of the T-shirt for washing process. Table 51 - Definition of the reference scenario for the Delta approach Processes Washing Washing machine Reference Gentle washing for minimum weight (in Europe) Washing machine for minimum weight 1403 59 Comments The minimum weight is available in the Table 52. The minimum weight is available in the Table 52. 1404 1405 Drying No drying Ironing No ironing Drying is allowed or not according to the T-shirt. Ironing is allowed or not according to the T-shirt. Table 52 - Weight of the T-shirt to apply the Delta approach Weight of the representative products Minimum weight Men Women Children 2-7 Children 814 Babies 160 g 150 g 100 g 130 g 75 g 80 g 75 g 50 g 65 g 37,5 g 1406 1407 6.7 Logistics 1408 1409 1410 1411 1412 1413 1414 1415 1416 1417 1418 1419 1420 1421 1422 1423 1424 1425 [Specify transport, distribution and storage scenarios to be included in the study together with the underlying assumptions (e.g. distribution in central Europe, distribution in south Europe, distance to port, etc)] 1426 1427 1428 1429 1430 1431 Main countries of production for the textile raw materials Definition of the stages taken into account for the logistic phase: - Transport at production stage: o Transport of raw materials (T-RM) o Transport of yarn (transport T1) o Transport of knitted fabric (transport T2) o Transport of dyed fabric (transport T3) o Transport of printed fabric (transport T4) o Transport of finished fabric (transport T5) - Transport of T-shirt: o Transport between assembly and warehouse (transport T6) o Transport between warehouse and shop (transport T7) - Distribution: o Customer travel The transport of raw materials takes into account the main countries of production for the raw materials. They are described in the Table 53. Table 53 - Contribution countries of production per raw material Material Conventional cotton Countries of production China India USA Pakistan Africa Brazil Australia 60 Percentage (%) 30,2 27,3 15,2 10,1 6,5 6,4 4,3 Organic cotton Virgin polyester Polyester fibres Polyester filament Conventional viscose Polyamide 6,6 viscose fibres viscose filaments viscose fibres viscose filaments Polypropylene PP fibres and filaments Acrylic Acrylic fibres and filaments India Turkey Africa China USA PR China India Europe Taiwan NAFTA = North America Korea South America Japan PR China India Taiwan Korea Europe NAFTA = North America Japan South America PR China Europe India NAFTA = North America Japan Taiwan South America Korea China India NAFTA = North America PR China Europe PR China NAFTA = North America Europe Taiwan Korea South America Japan India USA West Europe China Turkey Japan South America China West Europe Turkey Japan Taiwan 61 75 11 7 6 1 70 8 5 5 5 5 1 1 79 8 6 3 2 1 1 0 50,34 20,61 9,42 9,28 4,52 3,55 2,01 0,27 84,84 15,16 39 35 26 41 26 13 11 4 2 2 1 34,63 29,43 11,95 9,05 5,89 9,05 40 17 16 7 6 Wool fibres Elastane Fibres Flax Long fibres Silk Hemp Inda Thailand Korea China Australia New Zealand United Kingdom Iran (Islamic Republic of) Morocco Sudan (former) Argentina Russian Federation Turkey India Pakistan South Africa Kazakhstan Turkmenistan Uruguay Indonesia Uzbekistan Algeria PR China Korea Taiwan West Europe Japan USA France Belorussia Russia China United Kingdom Netherland Belgium Egypt China India Vietnam Romania China Democratic People s Republic of Korea Netherlands Chile Austria Romania Russian Federation Italy Ukraine 1432 1433 62 5 5 2 24 22 10 4 4 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 65 9 9 7 5 5 25 21 18 18 6 5 4 4 81,03 12,97 4,65 1,35 28 27 12 9 6 6 3 2 2 1434 Default value and secondary data for transport processes 1435 Table 54 - Default value and secondary data for transport processes (km) Transport of raw materials (T-RM) Conventional cotton Polyester – filament Polyester – yarn Viscose Polyamide 6.6 Polypropylene Acrylic Wool Elastane Chlorofibre Flax Silk Hemp Transport of yarn (transport T1) Yarn Filament Transport of knitted fabric (transport T2) Transport of dyed fabric (transport T3) Transport of printed fabric (transport T4) Distance in truck Distance in boat Distance in plane - - - 2686 2315 2518 2613 2980 2911 2339 2058 2302 2584 3214 2531 2413 7699 2586 4783 7381 10036 12274 7110 8960 3427 8512 14238 3806 9199 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 - - - 2326 2285 6848 6736 0 0 500 0 0 500 0 0 500 (1730 km if no finishing process) 0 (5958 km if no finishing process) (391 km if no finishing process) 1730 5958 391 1540 5527 800 Transport of finished fabric (transport T5) Transport between assembly and warehouse (transport T6) 1436 1437 1438 1439 1440 Customer travel – Shop selling For shop selling, the impact of the customer travel is calculated based on the following formula. 𝐼𝑚𝑝𝑎𝑐𝑡𝑐𝑢𝑠𝑡𝑜𝑚𝑒𝑟 𝑡𝑟𝑎𝑣𝑒𝑙 = 1441 1442 1443 1444 1445 1446 0 With:     ∑(𝐾𝑚𝑖 × 𝑇𝑖 × 𝐼𝑖 ) × (𝑇𝑢𝑑 + 𝑇𝑠𝑑 𝑁𝑠𝑣 ) 𝑁𝑝 𝑁𝑣 Impact customer travel: environmental impact for customer travel per product Kmi: average distance back and forth by type of transport (km) Ti: average % of main transport (%) Tud: % customers who visit one shop (transportation with unique destination) (%) 63 1447 1448 1449 1450 1451 1452 1453 1454 1455 1456 1457 1458 1459 1460 1461 1462 1463 1464 1465 1466 1467 1468 1469 1470 1471 1472 1473      Tsd: % customers who visit several shops (transportation with several destinations) (%) Nsv: average number of shops visited Nv: number of visitors for one year (buyers + non buyers) Np: number of products sold in one year Ii: environmental impact per km by type of transport The data to be used are listed below and in the Table 55 33:  % customers who visit one shop (Tud): 37%  % customers who visit several shops (Tsd): 63%  Average number of shops visited (Nsv): 3,5  Number of visitors for one year (buyers + non buyers) (Nv): 93 074 310  Number of products sold in one year (Np): 249 209 524 These data come from a study realized by Decathlon. Table 55 - Secondary data for customer travel Kmi: average Number of distance back customer per and forth vehicle (km) 14,6 1 Transport Ti: average % of main transport Bus 5,10% Bicycle 1,70% 18,7 1 Car 85,40% 28 1,05 Carpooling 0,20% 30 2 Motorcycles 1,40% 20,4 1 On foot 1,90% 4 1 Subway/tram 4,50% 12,3 1 Weight transported For the transport at production stage (T-RM to T5), the quantity transported for each transport step is equal to the output quantity of the process which precedes transport. For the transport of T-shirt (T6 and T7), the weight transported is the sum of the weight of Tshirt, accessories which are removed before use of the product (temporary labels on the T-shirt: e.g. price tag, cardboard brand tag) and packaging. For the distribution (customer travel), the weight transported is the sum of the weight of T-shirt and accessories which are removed before use of the product (temporary labels on the T-shirt). 1474 6.8 End-of-life stage 1475 1476 1477 1478 1479 [Specify end-of-life scenario, if part of the system boundary. Specify underlying scenario assumptions e.g. waste sorting in central Europe or waste incineration in plants of central Europe, etc] The end of life takes place in Europe. 64 1480 1481 1482 1483 1484 1485 1486 1487 1488 1489 1490 1491 1492 1493 1494 1495 1496 1497 1498 1499 1500 1501 1502 The end-of-life of T-shirts corresponds to a distribution between recycling and waste elimination (landfilling and incineration). The following distribution is considered: - recycling (11%)22, - incineration (with energy recovery) (36%)23, - incineration (without energy recovery) (1,4%)22, - landfill (51,6%)23. The recycling technologies (11% of the T-shirts are recycled at end of life) were detailed as follows: - 87% of the T-shirts are recycled into wiping cloths - 13% are recycled into insulation materials24 The recycling into cloths avoids the production of wiping paper. The production of insulation materials avoids the production of glass wool. The methodological hypotheses are presented in paragraph 4.3 « Methodological assumptions used in the screening ». Note concerning the re-use: The reuse is taken into account in the lifetime of the T-shirts. The lifetime corresponds to a complete lifetime of T-shirts: after the use, T-shirts are worn out and cannot be reused. The use stage could correspond to multiple users for a T-shirt. The end-of-life of T-shirt, plastic bag and cardboard shall be modelled according to the 50/50 formula described in the PEF guide based on the factors available in the Table 56. Table 56 - Parameters for modelling the end-of-life Recycled (or reused) content of material Recycling (or reuse) fraction of material Proportion of material in the product that is used for energy recovery Efficiency of the energy recovery process for electricity Efficiency of the energy recovery process for heat Lower Heating Value (MJ/kg) PEF nomenclature T-shirts Plastic bag Cardboard R1 0 0 94% 25 R2 0,11 0,353 26 0,838 26 R3 0,36 0,2717 27 0,068 27 XER, elec 10% 26 XER, heat 20% 26 18,03 for men, women and children T-shirts LHV 46 28 15,92 26 0,67 1 16 for babies T-shirt Dimensionless ratio taken as an approximation for any differences in quality between the secondary material and the primary material Qs/Qp 1503 65 0,05 1504 1505 6.9 Requirements for multifunctional products and multiproduct processes allocation 1506 1507 1508 1509 1510 1511 1512 1513 1514 1515 1516 1517 1518 1519 1520 1521 1522 1523 1524 1525 1526 1527 1528 1529 1530 [Specify multi-functionality solutions and clearly justify with reference to the PEF multifunctionality solution hierarchy. Where subdivision is applied, specify which processes are to be sub-divided and how to subdivide the process by specifying the principles that such subdivision should adhere to. Where system expansion is used, specify which processes are added to the system. Where allocation by physical relationship is applied, specify the relevant underlying physical relationships to be considered, and establish the relevant allocation factors or rules. Where allocation by some other relationship is applied, specify this relationship and establish the relevant allocation factors or rules.] 1531 1532 1533 1534 For each of the raw materials it is not possible to disaggregating multifunctional processes or facilities to isolate the input flows directly associated with each process or facility output. Data of the functions produced cannot be obtained for each of the sub-processes. Thus, subdivision is not adapted. 1535 1536 1537 1538 1539 1540 1541 1542 1543 1544 1545 1546 1547 1548 1549 1550 1551 The other solution is to use the system expansion method (i.e. to use a broader functional unit). This method is not adapted as the substituted product for each raw material is not known. This is related to the fact that the production of raw materials is global. For cotton, the use of a substitution method (e.g. subtracting off the environmental impact of soybeans replaced by cottonseed) was considered too complex and too dependent on market changes30. A sensitivity analysis was done during the PEF screening on the system expansion method for cotton fibres. Different uses are considered for the cottonseeds: oil and meal production, compost, incineration and landfill. The aim was to study the influence of the distribution between the different uses. The study shows that there is significant impacts variability depending on the assumptions considered. As the recovery methods (i.e the distribution between the different uses of the cottonseeds) are not known globally, the system expansion is not relevant. Indeed, it causes too many variations on results. For transport, the allocation of impacts is based on the distance and the mass of transported good. When data from industry (consumption of energy, water, etc.) are collected for the whole consumption of the manufacture, an allocation based on physical relationship (mass, area or article) is needed to obtain the consumption per T-shirt. For raw materials, the treatment of multi-functionality is related to the following processes: cotton fibres, flax fibres (long fibres), viscose fibres, hemp fibres, silk and wool. The following decision hierarchy was applied according to the PEF Guide: - Subdivision or system expansion - Allocation based on a relevant underlying physical relationship - Allocation Based on Some Other Relationship 1) Subdivision or system expansion 66 1552 2) Allocation based on a relevant underlying physical relationship 1553 1554 1555 1556 1557 1558 1559 1560 1561 1562 1563 1564 1565 1566 1567 1568 1569 1570 1571 1572 Where subdivision or system expansion cannot be applied, allocation should be used: the inputs and outputs of the system should be partitioned between its different products or functions in a way that reflects relevant underlying physical relationships between them29. Allocation based on a physical relationship can be modelled using mass-based allocation for example. A mass-based allocation is not considered as relevant in view of the price differences between products. For cotton, a mass-based allocation allocates the majority of impacts on the cottonseed. This approach is not adapted as cotton cultivation is mainly done for the fibers30. 3) Allocation Based on Some Other Relationship In view of the price differences between products, economic allocations are used for each raw material. The following tables (Table 57 to Table 63) present the allocations used in the T-shirt life cycle. Table 57 - Allocation used for organic cotton fibres Allocated coproducts Explanations Source Data Location 1573 1574 Organic cotton fibre (co-product studied in this inventory), Cotton seed, The co-products "Cotton fibre" and "Cotton seed" were considered by an allocation upon economic criteria. 67% of the total revenue per hectare is made by cotton fibres and 33% by cotton seeds. The allocation was based on data from Textile Exchange (Textile Exchange, Material Snapshot - Organic Cotton, 2016) and USDA, Agricultural Marketing Service (USDA, Organic Cotton Market Summary, 2016). The data about cotton production and prices of co-products were collected for the year 2016. The data about the reported production amount were collected in the United States of America (National Agricultural Statistics Service). Table 58 - Allocation used for conventional cotton fibres Allocated coproducts Explanations Source Data Location Conventional cotton fibre (co-product studied in this inventory), Cotton seed, The co-products "Cotton fibre" and "Cotton seed" were considered by an allocation upon economic criteria. 87% of the total revenue per hectare is made by cotton fibres an 13% by cotton seeds (values considering the year 2007). The allocation was based on data from National Agricultural Statistics Service (NASS) of the United States Departement of Agriculture (via Ecoinvent report “Life Cycle Inventories of Agricultural Production Systems”, 2007). The data were collected for the year 2007. The data about the reported production amount were collected in the United States of America (National Agricultural Statistics Service). 1575 1576 67 1577 Table 59 - Allocations used for flax fibres (long fibres) Allocated coproducts Explanations Source Data Location 1578 1579 Co-products of the cultivation of flax (and scutching process): Long fibres flax (coproduct studied in this inventory), Flax tow, Shives, Seeds, Flakes, Waste. Co-products of the hackling process: Hackled flax (co-product studied in this inventory), Hackled tow, Waste and dust. The co-products cited above were considered by an allocation upon economic criteria. An economic allocation is chosen in view of the price differences between products. Two successive allocations are done: one concerning the cultivation of flax and the scutching process, the other for the hackling process. First allocation: long fibres flax account for 24% in weight and is sold 1,63 €/kg, flax tow account for 13% in weight and is sold 0,32 €/kg, shives account for 41% in weight and is sold 0,04 €/kg, seeds account for 4% in weight and is sold 0,20 €/kg, flakes account for 8% in weight and is sold 0,03 €/kg, waste account for 10% in weight and are not sold. This lead to an allocation of the cultivation and scutching of flax of 84% to long fibres flax, 9% to flax tow, 4% to shives, 2% to seed and 1% to flakes. Second allocation: hackled flax account for 65% in weight and is sold 3 €/kg, hackled tow account for 30% in weight and is sold 1,5 €/kg, waste and dust account for 5% and are not sold. This lead to an allocation of the hackling process of 81% to hackled flax and 19% to hackled tow. The prices of the co-products are taken from Flax professional organizations (Via BIOIS, Analyse de Cycle de Vie comparée d’une chemise en lin et d’une chemise en coton, 2007). The produced amount of co-products are taken from BIOIS, Analyse de Cycle de Vie comparée d’une chemise en lin et d’une chemise en coton, 2007 and Turunen, van der Werf, Life Cycle Analysis of Hemp Textile Yarn, 2006. The prices of co-products and the produced amount of co-products date from 2002 to 2006. The data about the reported production amount and prices were collected mainly in France and in East Europe. Table 60 - Allocation used for viscose fibres Allocated coproducts Explanations Viscose fibre (co-product studied in this inventory), acetic acid, sodium sulphate, furfural The co-products "acetic acid", "sodium sulphate" and “furfural” were considered. System expansion is applied for "acetic acid" and "sodium sulphate" and allocation upon economic criteria is considered for “furfural”. System expansion: For acetic acid the avoided product is the petrochemical production of acetic acid. Several technologies are considered for the production of sodium sulphate: the production from natural origin (60%), the production as by-product (25%) and the production as main product, with Mannheim process (15%). Economic allocation: The amount produced and products prices lead to an allocation to 98,5 % to viscose fibres and 1,5 % to furfural. 68 Source Data Location 1580 1581 Table 61 - Allocation used for hemp fibres Allocated coproducts Explanations Source Data Location 1582 1583 The system expansion for "acetic acid" and "sodium sulphate" is based on the paper of Shen and Patel, Life cycle assessment of man-made cellulose fibres, Lenzinger Berichte 88 (2010) 1-59. The allocation for “furfural” is based on The Biorefinery and Green Chemistry, in Ionic Liquids in the Biorefinery Concept: Challenges and Perspectives, 2015, pp. 1-37 eISBN:978-1-78262-259-8 The data about sodium sulphate production data from 2007. The prices of furfural coproduct date from 2015. The data about the reported production amount were collected in Austria. Long fibres (co-product studied in this inventory), Short fibres, Shives The co-products Long fibre, Short fibres and shives were considered by an allocation upon economic criteria. An economic allocation is chosen in view of the price differences between products of the cultivation phase. The economic value of long fibres is about 1.75$/kg, short fibres about 0.75$/kg and shives of about 0.2 $/kg. Long fibres, short fibres and shives respectively represent 9%, 23% and 40% of the production (in weight). This lead to an allocation of 38.42% for the long fibres, 42.07% for the short fibres and 19.51% for the shives. The allocation was based on data from Audsley and al. and direct communication with Attila Homonyik (Via Turunen, Life cycle analysis of hemp textile yarn). Data for the allocation of hemp cultivation were collected in 1997 (Audsley et al.), from 2003 to 2004 for the prices and in 2004 (Attila Homoniyk). The data about the reported production amount were collected in western and eastern Europe. Table 62 - Allocation used for silk Allocated coproducts Explanations Source Data Location Reeled silk (co-product studied in this inventory), Silk waste (from reeling process) The main purpose of mulberry cultivation is for nutrition supply of the silk worm "Bombyx Mori". Hence, the environmental impacts related to the cultivation are solely allocated to silk. During the reeling of cocoons, about 28% of the silk contained in the cocoons cannot be reeled. Nevertheless this silk waste can be spun into silk yarn. Silk yarn, in comparison to reeled silk, is of minor quality and is thus sold at a lower price. The co-products "Reeled silk" and "Silk waste" were considered by an allocation upon economic criteria. An economic allocation is chosen in view of the price differences between products. Other co-products, like the fruit of mulberry trees, are not considered. This lead to an allocation to 93.7% to the reeled silk and 6.3% to the silk waste. The prices of the co-products are taken from the Central Silk Board Ministry of Textiles of the Government of India: http://www.csb.gov.in/statistics/silk-bulletin/ The produced amount of co-products is taken from "Shenoy et al., An industrial ecology approach to optimize resource in the silk reeling sector in Sidlaghatta". The prices of co-products date from 2013. The produced amount of co-products date from 2008-2009. The data about the reported production amount and prices were collected in India. 1584 69 1585 Table 63 – Allocation used for wool Allocated coproducts Explanations Source Data Location Wool (co-product studied in this inventory), Sheep (live weight) The co-products "Wool" and "Sheep (live weight)" were considered by an allocation upon economic criteria. An economic allocation is chosen in view of the price differences between products. The amount produced and co-products prices lead to an allocation of the husbandry to 22.8% to wool and 77,2% to live sheep. The allocation was based on data from National Agricultural Statistics Service (NASS) of the United States Departement of Agriculture (via Ecoinvent report "Life Cycle Inventories of Agricultural Production Systems, 2007). The data about sheep husbandry and prices of co-products were collected for the year 2006. The data about the reported production amount were collected in the United States of America. 1586 1587 1588 1589 1590 1591 Unlike the cow, there is no model developed by a working group for the sheep. Data are available for protein mass allocation but they have not been validated by the European Commission. A sensitivity analysis between economic allocation and ‘protein mass’ allocation was performed during the supporting studies. It showed that there is little difference between the two allocations. The economic allocation is retained. 1592 7 Benchmark and classes of environmental performance 1593 1594 1595 1596 1597 1598 1599 1600 1601 1602 1603 1604 1605 1606 1607 1608 1609 1610 1611 1612 1613 1614 1615 1616 1617 1618 [Identify the environmental performance benchmark for the product category, based on the results of the screening on the representative product and the information gathered through the stakeholders consultation. Provide a description of the benchmark, by summarising information reported in Annex III. Identify classes of environmental performance. Ideally, there should be 5 classes of environmental performance (from A to E, with A being the best performing class and C being the performance of the representative product, i.e. the benchmark), by taking into account the estimated spread (including uncertainty) around the benchmark results, which might differ from impact category to impact category. BREF, EU legislation and ISO type I labels are example of sources of information that may be used to define best and worst performance. The information shown in the present document is a first draft of the specific assumptions or input considered and the methodology to follow for the identification of benchmark and classes the performance. The scope of benchmark and performance classes is to create environmental quantified measurement in order to propose comparative assertions of the impact categories for T-shirts. Benchmark The benchmark is defined on the result of the representative products during the PEF screening, based on the assessment of the 15 impact categories. The PEF guide mentions that the benchmark value for the representative product corresponds to the class C of the classes of performance. Due to the 5 sub-categories, i.e. men, women, children (2-7), children (8-14), and 70 1619 1620 1621 1622 1623 1624 1625 1626 1627 1628 1629 1630 1631 1632 1633 1634 1635 1636 babies T-shirts, there will be available five benchmarks in order to complete the information for each sub-category. See PEF screening for more details. 1637 8 Interpretation 1638 1639 1640 1641 1642 1643 1644 1645 1646 1647 1648 1649 1650 The benchmark and performance classes will be defined for the 15 impact categories. A single score will also be calculated. Methodology to build the performance classes The classes of performance are determined through two approaches: 1. Hypothetical scenarios carried out in Asia and Europe for example, 2. Supporting studies. Finally, regression model-based will be used as a technique in order to become the complete data in legible information. The multiple regression analysis build the scale divided from A to E classes of performance in consequence of investigating the relationship between the indicators and their inputs and assumptions. This part will be completed in the next version of the PEFCR. [Describe the hot-spots and the most relevant impact categories of the product category. Describe uncertainties common to the product category. The range in which results could be seen as not being significantly different in comparisons or comparative assertions shall be identified. Provide an assessment on whether this PEFCR can be used for comparing performances of similar products.] According to the PEF Guidance, the interpretation shall be conducted through the following aspect: - The most relevant Impact Categories Hotspot at level of life cycle stages, process and elementary flows Estimation of uncertainty Conclusions, recommendations and limitations 1651 The most relevant impact categories 1652 1653 1654 1655 1656 1657 The following indicators are identified as the most relevant: - Climate change - Particulate matter - Freshwater eutrophication - Marine eutrophication - Resource depletion - mineral, fossil & renewable 1658 1659 1660 1661 1662 Human toxicity - cancer effect, human toxicity - non-cancer effect, freshwater ecotoxicity and water resource depletion indicators are pre-selected subject to improved characterization factors. 71 1663 Hotspot at level of life cycle stages, process and elementary flows 1664 1665 1666 The following life cycle stages are identified as hotspots: the raw material production (this includes the textile raw materials, the accessories and the packaging), the T-shirt production, the customer travel and the use phase (washing, drying and ironing). 1667 1668 1669 1670 1671 1672 For each life cycle stage, the following processes are identified as hotspots: - Raw material: the production of cotton fibres - T-shirt production: the dyeing, - Transport of the final product: the transport between assembly and warehouse (T6) - Distribution: the customer travel - Use stage: the washing and the ironing 1673 1674 1675 All processes which together contribute over 80% (before normalisation and weighting) to any of the baseline impact are considered as relevant. The study starts from the largest to the smallest contributions. 1676 1677 1678 1679 1680 Regarding to the elementary flow, they were identified for each process defined as relevant. All elementary flows which together contribute over 80% (before normalisation and weighting) to any of the baseline impact are considered as relevant. All elementary flow contributing more than 5% to the impact category shall be considered as relevant. See PEF screening report for more details. 1681 Uncertainties 1682 1683 1684 This part could be completed in the final PEFCR. 1685 1686 Conclusion, recommendation and limitations will be provided at the subsequent PEF pilot phase. 1687 9 Reporting, Disclosure and Communication 1688 1689 1690 1691 1692 [Specify and describe the 3-4 best ways of communicating the results of a PEF-profile for this product category to different stakeholders (B2B and B2C as appropriate)] 1693 The aim is to focus on B2C communication. 1694 1695 In order to select the correct communication vehicles for the product category, specific criteria have been studied apart of the target audience, which are listed following: 1696 1697 1698 1699 1700 1701 1702 Conclusions, recommendations and limitations The main objective of communication phase is the proposal of vehicles that will be beneficial for informing the target audience about the environmental impact of T-shirts. - Type of information to communicate Use of comparison or comparative assertions Relevance of life cycle phase Situation of dependence: self-standing or in combination Location and way of purchase decision Positioning of the communication vehicle Cost of development and application 72 1703 1704 - Simplicity of developing and applying the chosen communication vehicle in term of time and resource. 1705 1706 1707 The chosen communication vehicles are label and the company website (corporate and on-line stored). The final selection of communication vehicles will be agreed at a later stage by the TS. The chosen communication vehicles will be tested by the TS companies. 1708 A third communication vehicle will be selected by the technical secretariat. 1709 1710 1711 1712 The proposals shall be taken into account the general principles defined in the Commission Communication "Building the Single Market for Green Products - Facilitating better information on the environmental performance of products and organisations", such as transparency, availability and accessibility, reliability, completeness, comparability and clarity. 1713 9.1 PEF label 1714 1715 In case a PEF label is listed among the communication options, the PEFCR shall specify and describe the requirements for the use of the label, its content and its layout. 1716 1717 1718 1719 Labelling is considered a well understood tool of communication, furthermore customers are familiar with it. The type of purchase also leads to the selection of this communication vehicle as regard to the fast decision making process for T-shirts. Label will be attached on the product as well as available on the online store website. 1720 1721 The complete environmental information will be achieved in combination with other communication vehicles (cf. 9.2 “Corporate websites”). 1722 The information provided in the label should follow some requirements to avoid a misleading: 1723 1724 1725 1726 1727 1728 1729 1730 1731 1732 1733 1734 1735 1736 - - Based on the benchmark and performance classes defined in the chapter 7 Value could be provided in the following alternative: o Aggregated value (single score), presented with ABCDE symbol due to it familiarity instead of numerical value. o Relative scale for each impact category studied o Combination of the options above In case single score will be chosen all the impact categories taken into account in the study. The impact categories shall be listed as relevant environmental categories in the draft PEFCR (cf. part 5.5 “Selection of the EF impact categories indicators”) The inclusion of the QR code is not taken into account due to a previous experience of a member of the TS that reflects that customer do not spend time using their mobile in their decision process in-situ. Information referred to the European pilots 1737 Given that the use phase has much impact, it is possible to communicate separately on this step. 1738 1739 The design of the label is not completely defined. This point is being discussed in further details by the TS. 1740 9.2 Corporate websites 1741 1742 As far as it was mentioned before, website is used as a supporting communication vehicle. The aim is to widen the environmental information from the labelling. 73 1743 1744 1745 The criteria to develop this type of communication shall follow similar principles as those used for labelling in term of content. However more details for environmental impact categories taken on the study will be record to clarify the single scored displayed in the labelling. 1746 1747 1748 1749 1750 On the other hand, the behaviour of the customer during the use phase shows relevant environmental impact as it was detected in the PEF screening. In such a case, extra information regarding the responsible use of the product in order to reduce the impact in the use stage could be provided (e.g. amount of impact if they use an inefficient manner). However the possibility to include this information in the website will be discussed at a later stage. 1751 10 Verification 1752 1753 1754 1755 1756 1757 1758 1759 1760 1761 1762 1763 1764 1765 [Specify the requirements for verification to be used, depending on the intended application and communication vehicles used]. 1766 11 Reference literature 1767 1768 1769 1770 1771 1772 1773 1774 1775 1776 1777 1778 1779 1780 1781 1782 1783 1784 1785 According to the PEF Guide, “any PEF study for internal communication claiming to be in line with the PEF guide and any PEF study for external communication (e.g. B2B or B2C) shall be critically reviewed on order to ensure: - The methods used to carry out the PEF study are consistent with the PEF Guide; - The methods used to carry out the PEF study are scientifically and technically valid; - The data used are appropriate, reasonable and meet the defined data quality requirements; - The interpretation of results reflects the limitations identified; - The study is transparent, accurate and consistent.” However, each aspect will be defined at later stage. [Provide references] 1. ADEME-AFNOR, BP X30-323-23 : General principles for an environmental communication on mass market products Part 23: Methodology for the environmental impacts assessment of clothing, 2013, a reading guide will be available at http://www2.ademe.fr/servlet/KBaseShow?sort=-1&cid=96&m=3&catid=23735 2. ADEME-AFNOR, BP X30-323-0, reading guide is available at http://www2.ademe.fr/servlet/KBaseShow?sort=-1&cid=96&m=3&catid=23735 3. Sustainable Apparel Coalition, PCR for Style T-shirts, 2013, available at http://iere.org/wp-content/uploads/Style-PCR-T-shirts.pdf 4. Sustainable Apparel Coalition, PCR for Performance T-shirts, 2013, available at http://iere.org/wp-content/uploads/Performance-PCR-T-shirts.pdf 5. Technical secretariat of the PEFCR pilot on T-shirts, Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) Category Rules (PEFCR) Pilot, T-shirts – Study of existing PCRs, draft scope, representative product, minutes of the consultation meeting, comments from stakeholder, June 2014 6. European Commission, JRC, ILCD Handbook “Recommendations for Life Cycle Impact Assessment in the European context”, 2011 74 1786 1787 1788 1789 1790 1791 1792 1793 1794 1795 1796 1797 1798 1799 1800 1801 1802 1803 1804 1805 1806 1807 1808 1809 1810 1811 1812 1813 1814 1815 1816 1817 1818 1819 1820 1821 1822 1823 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 7. European Environment Agency, Comparing environmental impact data on cleaner technologies, Technical Report n°1, 1997 8. European Commission, JRC Scientific and Technical reports, Environmental improvement potential of textiles (IMPRO-Textiles), 2009 9. Boufateh I., Contribution à l’évaluation de la supply chain pour la filière textile : définition de critères de développement durable, Thèse de doctorat, 2011 10. De Saxcé M., Pesnel S., Perwuelz A., LCA of bed sheets – some relevant parameters for lifetime assessment, Journal of cleaner production, vol. 37, 221-228, 2012 11. Kalliala, E. M., 1997. The Ecology of Textiles and Textile Services - A LCA Assessment Study on Best Available Applications and Technologies for Hotel Textile Production and Services, Tampere University Technology Publications 214, 1-117, PhD thesis. 12. Working group 5 – Textile – Clothing, Minutes of the meeting, October 28, 2011, Environmental footprinting in France 13. Michele Galatola (EC, DG ENV), Keith James (UK DEFRA), EF Helpdesk, Data requirements in Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules (PEFCRs), version 1.0, 12 May 2015 14. European Standard, Size designation of clothes — Part 3: Measurements and intervals, prEN 13402-3:2011 15. Commission Européenne, Journal officiel de l’Union européenne, RÈGLEMENT (UE) N°1007/2011 DU PARLEMENT EUROPÉEN ET DU CONSEIL du 27 septembre 2011, 18.10.2011 16. Textiles Intelligence website, available at https://www.textilesintelligence.com/glo/index.cfm?SECTION=E 17. « Household liquid laundry detergents » pilot, Description of the “representative product”, 2014 18. AISE, Activity and sustainability report, 2013-2013 19. European Commission, Joint Research Centre Technical Reports, Normalisation method and data for Environmental Footprints, 2014 20. PricewaterhouseCoopers, Ecodesign of Laundry Dryers. Preparatory studies for Ecodesign requirements of Energy-using-Products (EuP) – Lot 16, Final Report, March 2009 (p°142) 21. Commission Européenne, Journal officiel de l’Union européenne, L 293/21, RÈGLEMENT (UE) N° 1015/2010 DE LA COMMISSION du 10 novembre 2010 22. European Commission, JRC Scientific and Technical reports, Environmental improvement potential of textiles (IMPRO-Textiles), 2009 23. Eurostats, Municipal waste generation and treatment, by type of treatment method, 2012, available at http://ec.europa.eu/eurostat/tgm/refreshTableAction.do?tab=table&plugin=1&pcode=t sdpc240&language=en 24. ECO-TLC, Bilan de l’état de l’art réalisé en 2009 sur le tri et la valorisation des textiles d’habillement et du linge de maison consommés par les ménages, Octobre 2012 25. CEPI, Key statistics European Pulp and Paper Industry, 2013 (data for case materials) 26. Quantis, PEF/OEF: Default data to be used to model end-of-life, January 2015 75 1830 1831 1832 1833 1834 1835 1836 1837 1838 1839 1840 1841 1842 1843 1844 1845 1846 1847 1848 1849 1850 27. Eurostat 2012 data, calculation based on Fraction of non-recycled municipal solid wastes that are incinerated ((1-R2)*Fraction of non-recycled municipal solid wastes that are incinerated), available at http://ec.europa.eu/eurostat/tgm/refreshTableAction.do?tab=table&plugin=1&pcode=t sdpc240&language=en 28. Previ, Pouvoir calorifique des textiles, Dictionnaire de l’incendie, 1988, available at http://www.previ.be/dic/public/detail.cfm?MotID=1622 29. European Commission, Official Journal of the European Union, Recommendations 2013/179/EU: Commission Recommendation of 9 April 2013 on the use of common methods to measure and communicate the life cycle environmental performance of products and organisations, volume 56, May 2013 30. Cotton Incorporated, Life Cycle Assessment of cotton fiber & fabric – Full report, Prepared for Vision 21, A project of the Cotton Foundation, 2012 31. ADEME, Analyse et valorisation des campagnes de mesures sur les usages électriques dans le secteur résidentiel, Marché n° 95.04.166, mai 1997 32. European Commission, Product Environmental Footprint Pilot Guidance, Guidance for the implementation of the EU Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) during the Environmental Footprint (EF) pilot phase, Version 4.0 33. Technical secretariat of the PEFCR pilot on T-shirts, Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) Category Rules (PEFCR) Pilot, T-shirts – PEF screening report in the context of the EU Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules Pilots, September 2015 1851 1852 1853 34. 1854 1855 1856 1857 1858 1859 1860 1861 1862 1863 1864 1865 1866 1867 1868 1869 1870 1871 1872 35. WMO (1999). Scientific Assessment of Ozone Depletion: 1998. Global Ozone Research and Monitoring Project - Report No. 44, ISBN 92-807-1722-7, Geneva 36. Rosenbaum, R.K., Bachmann, T.M., Gold, L.S., Huijbregts, M.A.J., Jolliet, O., Juraske, R., Köhler, A., Larsen, H.F., MacLeod, M., Margni, M., McKone, T.E., Payet, J., Schuhmacher, M., van de Meent, D. and Hauschild, M.Z. (2008). USEtox - The UNEPSETAC toxicity model: recommended characterisation factors for human toxicity and freshwater ecotoxicity in Life Cycle Impact Assessment. International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment, 13(7): 532-546, 2008 37. Seppälä, J., Posch, M., Johansson, M. and Hettelingh, J.P. (2006). Country-dependent Characterisation Factors for Acidification and Terrestrial Eutrophication Based on Accumulated Exceedance as an Impact Category Indicator. International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment 11(6): 403-416. 38. Posch, M., Seppälä, J., Hettelingh, J.P., Johansson, M., Margni M. and Jolliet, O. (2008). The role of atmospheric dispersion models and ecosystem sensitivity in the determination of characterisation factors for acidifying and eutrophying emissions in LCIA. International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment (13) pp.477–486 39. Humbert, S. (2009). Geographically Differentiated Life-cycle Impact Assessment of Human Health. Doctoral dissertation, University of California, Berkeley, Berkeley, California, USA. Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) (2007). IPCC Climate Change Fourth Assessment Report: Climate Change 2007. www.ipcc.ch/ipccreports/assessments-reports.htm 76 1873 1874 1875 1876 1877 1878 1879 1880 1881 1882 1883 1884 1885 1886 1887 1888 1889 1890 1891 1892 1893 1894 1895 1896 1897 1898 1899 1900 1901 1902 1903 1904 1905 1906 1907 1908 1909 1910 1911 1912 1913 1914 1915 1916 40. Dreicer, M., Tort, V. and Manen, P. (1995). ExternE, Externalities of Energy, Vol. 5 Nuclear, Centr d'étude sur l'Evaluation de la Protection dans le domaine nucléaire (CEPN), edited by the European Commission DGXII, Science, Research and development JOULE, Luxembourg. 41. Van Zelm, R., Huijbregts, M.A.J., Den Hollander, H.A., Van Jaarsveld, H.A., Sauter, F.J., Struijs, J., Van Wijnen, H.J. and Van de Meent, D. (2008). European characterisation factors for human health damage of PM10 and ozone in life cycle impact assessment. Atmospheric Environment 42, 441-453. 42. Struijs, J., Beusen, A., van Jaarsveld, H. and Huijbregts, M.A.J. (2009). Aquatic Eutrophication. Chapter 6 in: Goedkoop, M., Heijungs, R., Huijbregts, M.A.J., De Schryver, A., Struijs, J., Van Zelm, R. (2009). ReCiPe 2008 A life cycle impact assessment method which comprises harmonised category indicators at the midpoint and the endpoint level. Report I: Characterisation factors, first edition. 43. Milà i Canals, L., Romanyà, J. and Cowell, S.J. (2007). Method for assessing impacts on life support functions (LSF) related to the use of ‘fertile land’ in Life Cycle Assessment (LCA). J Clean Prod 15 1426-1440 44. Frischknecht, R., Steiner, R. and Jungbluth, N. (2008). The Ecological Scarcity Method – Eco-Factors 2006. A method for impact assessment in LCA. Environmental studies no. 0906. Federal Office for the Environment (FOEN), Bern: 188 pp. 45. van Oers, L., de Koning, A., Guinee, J.B. and Huppes, G. (2002). Abiotic Resource Depletion in LCA. Road and Hydraulic Engineering Institute, Ministry of Transport and Water, Amsterdam. 46. Cycleco, Life Cycle Inventories database for textile sector, http://cycleco.eu/life-cycleinventory-databases-proposed-by-cycleco/ 47. S. Pesnel, A. Perwuelz, V. Pasquet, Résultats du sondage sur l’entretien et la fin de vie des articles textiles, ACVTEX : les OBJECTIFS et les REALISATIONS DU PROGRAMME, Décembre 2012 48. Textile Exchange, Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of Organic cotton – A global average (study realized by thinkstep (formerly PE INTERNATIONAL)), 2014 49. European Life Cycle Database (ELCD), v3.0, http://eplca.jrc.ec.europa.eu/ELCD3/ 50. EcoInvent database, v3, http://www.ecoinvent.com/ 51. European Commission, Product Environmental Footprint Pilot Guidance, Guidance for the implementation of the EU Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) during the Environmental Footprint (EF) pilot phase, Version 5.2 52. An De Schryver (EC, DG ENV), Michele Galatola (EC, DG ENV), Erwin M. Schau (EC, JRC), Lorenzo Benini (EC, JRC), Rana Pant (EC, JRC) Guidance and requirements for biogenic carbon modelling in PEFCRs, Version 2.1, January 2016 53. International Finance Corporation, Environmental, Health, and Safety Guidelines for Textile manufacturing, April 30, 2007 54. Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals Programme, Wastewater Guidelines Draft V.3, 2016 55. An De Schryver (EC, DG ENV), Michele Galatola (EC, DG ENV), Mark Goedkoop (EF Helpdesk), Jiannis Kougoulis (EC, DG ENV), Guidance and requirements for handling the use stage in PEFCRs, Version 5.0, December 2015 77 1917 1918 1919 1920 1921 1922 1923 1924 12 Supporting information for the PEFCR Open stakeholder consultations [A link to a web-page] 1st stakeholder consultation: https://webgate.ec.europa.eu/fpfis/wikis/display/EUENVFP/Stakeholder+workspace%3A+PE FCR+pilot+T-shirts 1925 1926 1927 1928 1929 1930 1931 1932 1933 1934 1935 PEFCR Review Report 1936 13 List of annexes Additional requirements in standards not covered in PEFCR [If a PEFCR is designed to be compliant with more than one standard, list requirements for any claim that intends to be compliant with these standards] Cases of deviations from the default approach [Where deviations from the default approach (as given in the PEF or in this PEFCR) is made, justification, results, interpretation and recommendation to the European Commission and the PEF-practitioner should be included.] 1937 1938 Annex I – Representative product 1939 1940 1941 1942 1943 1944 1945 1946 1947 1948 1949 1950 1951 1952 1953 1954 1955 1956 1957 1958 1959 1960 1961 Report describing the representative product. Document all the steps taken to define the model. The following elements shall be included: - Specify if it is a real or a virtual product - Description of the product and of sub-products (where applicable) - Bill of materials (BOM) if appropriate - System boundary diagram covering the entire life cycle. This shall include, at a minimum, foreground (direct) and upstream (indirect) activities associated with the product. The PEF boundaries shall by default include all supply-chain stages from raw material acquisition through processing, production, distribution, storage, use and EoL treatment of the product. All processes within the defined PEF boundaries shall be considered. Explicit justification shall be provided if downstream (indirect) activities are excluded - Assumptions related to transportation scenario - Assumptions related to use scenario (if relevant) - Assumptions related to End of Life (if relevant) The description of the representative products is available in the following documents: - 2014-06-10 PEFCR T-shirts_updated document.pdf (available in the wiki platform) (part 9. “Development of 5 representative products) - 2015-09-09 Tshirt_PEF screening report.pdf (available in the wiki platform) (part 3.3. “Assumptions and value judgments”). 78 1962 1963 1964 1965 1966 1967 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1975 1976 1977 1978 1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 The representative product has undergone changes during the supporting studies, therefore the following list summarizes the changes involved. 1997 1998 Table 64 – PEFCR gudelines for the use phase (source: Issue paper "Guidance and requirements for handling the use stage in PEFCRs"- European Commission) Data and modelling  Ecoinvent 3.1 is used instead of Ecoinvent 2.2 database in all the PEF  Modelling of the electricity mix: residual electricity consumption mix are used for European countries, and consumption mix are used for non-European countries.  The LCI of cotton fibres was updated. The updated LCI is based on the following geographical areas: China, India, United States of America, Pakistan, Africa, Brazil and Australia.  In the initial version of the representative products, the production of T-shirts in Europe was not taken into account (for the assembly process). Based on Eurostats data, the following countries of assembly are considered: Bangladesh (43%), China (19%), Turkey (17%), India (8%), Portugal (5%), Morocco (4%), Spain (2%), Italy (2%), Bulgaria (1%) and Romania (1%). Allocation  Allocation of viscose (cf. 6.9 Requirements for multifunctional products and multiproduct processes allocation): economic allocation is replaced by system expansion allocation for acetic acid and sodium sulphate and economic allocation for furfural. System boundary  The following processes are added to the study (cf. 5.4 System boundaries – life-cycle stages and processes): the warehouse (distribution center), the retail place and the services associated with the entire activity from the warehouse to user, including security, accounting, IT, legal affairs and marketing. Use phase The use phase is studied based on the issue paper of the European Commission55. The modelling guidelines and where to report are defined according to two criteria:  If the process is product dependent or not,  If the process is a most relevant process or not. The procedure followed is displayed in the Table 64. Is the use stage process… Product dependent? Most relevant? Yes Yes No No Yes/No Actions to be taken by the TS Modelling guidelines Where to report To be modelled in the PEFCR. Provide default data Optional: May be modelled in the PEFCR when the uncertainty can be quantified (provide default data) Excluded from the PEFCR model Mandatory: PEF report, reported separately* 1999 79 Optional: PEF report, reported separately* Optional: additional qualitative information 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 Note: the washing machine and the tumble drier (production and end of life) are added compared to the PEF screening. The Table 65 provides the results for T-shirts. Table 65 – Modelling of the use phase for T-shirts Product dependent? Washing Yes Water Yes Process Most relevant? Yes No Detergent Yes (powder) Yes Detergent Yes (liquid) Yes Electricity Yes Yes WWTP Yes Yes Washing machine Yes Yes Drying Yes Yes Tumble drier Yes No Ironing Yes Yes Modelling guidelines Optional: May be modelled in the PEFCR when the uncertainty can be quantified (provide default data) To be modelled in the PEFCR. Provide default data To be modelled in the PEFCR. Provide default data To be modelled in the PEFCR. Provide default data To be modelled in the PEFCR. Provide default data To be modelled in the PEFCR. Provide default data To be modelled in the PEFCR. Provide default data Optional: May be modelled in the PEFCR when the uncertainty can be quantified (provide default data) To be modelled in the PEFCR. Provide default data Where to report Comment Optional: PEF report, reported separately* Choice: the water is taken into account. Mandatory: PEF report, reported separately* Mandatory: PEF report, reported separately* Mandatory: PEF report, reported separately* Mandatory: PEF report, reported separately* Mandatory: PEF report, reported separately* Mandatory: PEF report, reported separately* Optional: PEF report, reported separately* - Mandatory: PEF report, reported separately* - - - - - - Choice: not taken into account. 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 Liquid detergent, electricity, wastewater treatment, washing machine and ironing are relevant for the five representative products. The powder detergent is relevant for men and women Tshirts. The drying in tumble drier is relevant for the men, women and children 8-14 T-shirts. The water used during the washing is not relevant for the representative products because of the high percentage of cotton in the composition. Indeed, the cotton production requires a substantial amount of water. A sensitivity analysis is done with a 100% polyester T-shirt. In that case, the water used during the washing is relevant. As the relevance of the water is function of the raw materials used in the T-shirt, the water process is modelled in the PEFCR. 80 2016 2017 2018 The production and the end of life of the tumble drier is not relevant. As this process has limited influence (less than 2% for all environmental indicators), it is not taken into account in the PEFCR. 2019 Annex II – Supporting studies 2020 2021 2022 2023 2024 2025 2026 2027 2028 2029 2030 2031 2032 2033 2034 2035 Reports, without disclosing any confidential informationg, describing the at least 3 PEF supporting studies that shall be carried out in compliance with the latest version of the PEF guide and with the included draft PEFCR. They shall be based on existing, real products. The studies should always be done under the assumption that its result would be used for a PEFCR that could support comparisons or comparative assertions intended to be disclosed to the public. The report on the supporting studies will be used to: - Test the draft PEFCR - Check the relevance of the identified the most relevant environmental impacts - Check the relevance of the environmental performance benchmarks - Check the relevance of the classes of environmental performance related to the specific product category in scope of the PEFCR (if feasible) 2036 2037 Supporting studies cover three of the 5 sub-categories defined in the draft PEFCR (men, women, babies, children 2-7 and children 8-12). 2038 2039 The three PEF supporting studies are concerning to the products described in the Table 66. The T-shirt are sold in Europe and the three companies are based in France. 2040 Table 66 – Description of products studied in the PEF supporting studies Supporting studies allow to test the pertinence and implementability of the available draft Tshirts PEFCR and apply the last version of the PEF guide and the “Guidance for the implementation of the EU PEF during the EF Pilot Phase”. Company Decathlon Promod Okaidi Men T-shirt Women T-shirt Babies T-shirt Photos Subcategories Composition 100% conventional cotton Weight 160 g 95/5 viscose/elastane for the knitted fabric, and 86/14 polyamide/elastane for the lace 91,3 g g 100% organic cotton 76,05 g (after correction) Confidential information can be dealt with in a separate way in line with chapter 8.2.4 in the PEF guide Fourth element: Confidential Report: “The Confidential Report is an optional reporting element that shall contain all those data (including raw data) and information that are confidential or proprietary and cannot be made externally available. It shall be made available confidentially to the critical reviewers.” 81 2041 2042 2043 These products are existing products as currently sold in the European market. The CPA/NACE code corresponding to the product category is C14.14.3 “T-shirts, singlets and other vests, knitted or crocheted”. 2044 2045 2046 These studies include all the life cycle stages of the product, from raw materials production to the end-of-life of textile and packaging, across T-shirt production, transport of T-shirt, distribution (customer travel) and use phase. 2047 2048 Primary data is product-specific data collected from Promod, Okaidi and Decathlon and their subcontractors (Table 67). 2049 Table 67 - Description of primary data Decathlon T-shirt - weight and composition - dyeing - assembly - normal washing - drying – allowed - ironing – allowed - transports Promod T-shirt Okaidi T-shirt - weight and composition - viscose spinning - elastane filament spinning (for knitted fabric) - knitting - production of lace - dyeing (for knitted fabric and lace) - assembly - accessories (quantities and type) - packaging (quantities and type) - type of sale (ratio online / in shops) - gentle washing - drying – not allowed - ironing – allowed - transports - weight and composition - spinning - knitting - dyeing - assembly - printing - accessories (quantities and type) - packaging (quantities and type) - normal washing - drying – not allowed - ironing – allowed - transports 2050 2051 2052 2053 2054 The data quality rating (DQR) is re-calculated for the processes defined as relevant and processes in situation 1 based on the Data Needs Matrix. For some processes the DQR is higher than the DQR needed. However, when considering the DQR without the end of life criteria, the quality is compliant with the requirements of the Data Needs Matrix. 2055 Table 68 – Average DQR (Data Quality Rating) for the 3 supporting studies Average DQR considering the end of life criteria Average DQR without considering the end of life criteria Decathlon T-shirt Promod T-shirt Okaidi T-shirt 2,4 2,4 2,3 1,9 2,0 1,9 2056 2057 2058 2059 The Table 69 and Table 70 display the results of the environmental impacts per supporting study before and after normalization. Results prior to normalisation, normalised results and weighted results are available in the study, at level of life cycle stages. 82 2060 Table 69 - Characterised results per supporting study (before normalisation) Impact categories Climate change CC - fossil CC - Biogenic CC - Land Ozone depletion Human toxicity, cancer effects Human toxicity, non-cancer effects Particulate matter Unit Decathlon T-shirt Promod T-shirt Okaidi T-shirt kg CO2 eq kg CO2 eq kg CO2 eq kg CO2 eq kg CFC-11 eq 6,60E+00 7,28E+00 -7,14E-01 4,99E-02 4,65E+00 4,62E+00 6,03E-03 1,94E-02 4,47E+00 4,96E+00 -5,18E-01 2,84E-02 9,63E-07 7,12E-07 6,39E-07 CTUh 2,71E-07 1,90E-07 1,42E-07 CTUh 1,16E-06 5,83E-07 6,05E-07 4,38E-03 2,64E-03 2,65E-03 3,70E-01 3,02E-01 2,53E-01 2,30E-02 1,36E-02 1,29E-02 5,14E-02 2,43E-02 2,66E-02 1,13E-01 4,30E-02 4,58E-02 7,26E-04 3,64E-04 4,00E-04 1,18E-02 5,80E-03 6,44E-03 4,33E+01 2,12E+01 1,85E+01 3,49E+01 7,87E+00 2,51E+01 8,69E-01 1,53E-02 4,64E-01 7,06E-04 4,13E-04 4,72E-04 kg PM2.5 eq kBq U235 eq kg NMVOC eq molc H+ eq Ionizing radiation HH Photochemical ozone formation Acidification Terrestrial molc N eq eutrophication Freshwater kg P eq eutrophication Marine kg N eq eutrophication Freshwater CTUe ecotoxicity Land use kg C deficit Water resource m3 water eq depletion Mineral, fossil & ren kg Sb eq resource depletion 2061 2062 Table 70 - Normalised results per supporting study Impact categories Climate change Ozone depletion Human toxicity, cancer effects Human toxicity, non-cancer effects Particulate matter Ionizing radiation HH Photochemical ozone formation Acidification Terrestrial eutrophication Freshwater eutrophication Marine eutrophication Unit Decathlon T-shirt Promod T-shirt Okaidi T-shirt Person.year Person.year 7,26E-04 4,46E-05 5,11E-04 3,30E-05 4,92E-04 2,96E-05 Person.year 7,35E-03 5,14E-03 3,84E-03 Person.year 2,18E-03 1,09E-03 1,14E-03 Person.year 1,15E-03 6,95E-04 6,97E-04 Person.year 3,27E-04 2,67E-04 2,24E-04 Person.year 7,25E-04 4,27E-04 4,07E-04 Person.year 1,08E-03 5,12E-04 5,60E-04 Person.year 6,39E-04 2,44E-04 2,60E-04 Person.year 4,91E-04 2,46E-04 2,70E-04 Person.year 6,97E-04 3,43E-04 3,81E-04 83 Freshwater ecotoxicity Land use Water resource depletion Mineral, fossil & ren resource depletion Person.year 4,93E-03 2,42E-03 2,11E-03 Person.year 4,67E-04 1,05E-04 3,37E-04 Person.year 1,07E-02 1,89E-04 5,71E-03 Person.year 6,99E-03 4,09E-03 4,68E-03 2063 2064 2065 2066 2067 The life cycle stages, processes and elementary flows cumulatively contributing at least 80% (before normalisation and weighting) to any of the baseline impact are considered as relevant (any elementary flow contributing more than 5% to the impact category is also considered as relevant). 2068 Table 71 - Identification of the most relevant life cycle stages and processes Production of raw materials Decathlon T-shirt - production of cotton fibres - T-shirt production Transport of T-shirt (this stage is not identified as relevant) Distribution (customer travel) - - transport between assembly and warehouse - customer travel - - washing washing machine (production and end-of-life) drying ironing T-shirt end-oflife - Use phase End-of-life transport of textile raw material spinning transport between spinning and knitting dyeing assembly Promod T-shirt - production of viscose fibres - production of polyamide fibres - transport of textile raw materials - spinning of viscose fibres - spinning of elastane (for knitted fabric) - transport of yarn - knitting - fabric dyeing - transport before the assembly - assembly - - Okaidi T-shirt - production cotton fibres - of spinning (combed process) fabric dyeing - transport between assembly and warehouse customer travel - customer travel gentle washing washing machine (production and end-of-life) ironing - washing washing machine (production and end of life) ironing - 2069 2070 2071 The supporting studies validate the outcomes of the screening study concerning the selection of the relevant life cycle stages and the relevant processes (taking into account the 80% rule). 84 2072 2073 2074 2075 2076 2077 2078 2079 2080 2081 2082 2083 2084 2085 2086 2087 2088 2089 Two supporting studies validate the outcomes of the screening study concerning the selection of relevant impact categories. In fact, for Okaidi and Decathlon, the indicators identified as relevant are climate change, particulate matter, freshwater eutrophication, marine eutrophication and resource depletion - mineral, fossil & renewable. Human toxicity - cancer effects, human toxicity - non-cancer effects, freshwater ecotoxicity and water resource depletion indicators are pre-selected subject to improved characterization factors. For Promod T-shirt, the only difference is relative to the water resource depletion indicator. This indicator can be removed from the most relevant indicators. This difference is due to the raw materials used: mainly cotton (77%) for the representative product, while artificial and synthetic raw materials are used for Promod T-shirt. The three supporting studies show that the land use change has low normalized results. 2090 2091 2092 2093 2094 2095 2096 The modelling of the use stage is also studied: the main function approach (base case) is compared with the Delta approach. For the moment, no choice is made between the two approaches for T-shirts pilot. 2097 Table 72 - Benchmark for the three representative products: men, woman and babies T-shirts During the supporting study, sensitivity analysis were done concerning the quality factor for the T-shirt end-of-life (modification of the term Qs/Qp in the end-of-life formula), and the influence of the T-shirts reuse (the T-shirt is exported in other regions). For these two studies, small differences are obtained on the impact of the total life cycle. Concerning the T-shirt endof-life, it seems more relevant to modify the quality factor. For the reuse, it is not necessary to implement some changes in the PEFCR. Benchmarks are calculated based on the 15 impact categories after weighting (Table 72). The Table 73 provides the impact for each supporting study. Benchmark (impact of representative products) (µPt) Men T-shirts Women T-shirts Babies T-shirts 2700 2540 1550 Decathlon T-shirt 2570 Promod T-shirt 1090 Okaidi T-shirt 1410 2098 2099 Table 73 – Results for the supporting studies Supporting studies (µPt) 2100 2101 2102 2103 2104 2105 2106 2107 2108 2109 2110 2111 2112 The definition of performance classes is studied. The aim is to develop performance classes for single score for the full life cycle without use phase, and for the use phase (considering the 15 indicators and only reliable indicators). For this, scenarios were defined to identify the minimum and maximum values. For Okaidi T-shirt, performance classes were developed for the full life cycle without use phase and for the use phase. The performance classes are just a draft for the moment. They need to be discussed and validated by the Technical secretariat before implementing in the next version of the PEFCR. For Promod and Decathlon T-shirts, performance classes were developed for the use phase. However, based on the first results obtained for the full life cycle without use phase (in terms of minimum and maximum values) it was not possible to calculate the classes of performance for this other part of the life cycle. The maximum scenario considers a 100% wool T-shirt. This 85 2113 2114 2115 2116 2117 2118 2119 2120 2121 2122 2123 2124 leads to high impacts, too far from representative product. At this point, two options can be considered: modify the definition of the maximum scenario, or develop sub-categories depending on material. This point will be further discussed in the technical secretariat. 2125 2126 During the PEF screening, the most relevant processes were identified based on the following criteria: Thanks to the supporting studies, several improvements are identified for the PEFCR. For example, it is necessary to add information concerning the calculation of quantities (for example, the output quantity of knitting process is calculated based on the weight of the T-shirt and the loss rates). It is also necessary to rework some points, such as the management of several supply chains: when a T-shirt is produced with several supply chains, the data collection needs to be representative. Identification of the most relevant processes  2127 2128 2129 2130 2131 2132 2133 2134 2135 2136 The supporting studies validate the outcomes of the screening study concerning the selection of the relevant processes by taking into account the 80% rule. However, most processes identified through the expert judgment or sensitivity analyses are not identified as relevant (only the knitting is identified as relevant for Promod T-shirt). 2137 2138 Thus, the list of most relevant processes is modified based on the PEF screening (with 80% rule) and the results of the supporting studies. The most relevant processes are: 2139 2140 2141 2142 2143 2144 2145 2146 2147 2148 2149 2150 2151 2152 2153 2154   - the processes cumulatively contributing at least 80% (before normalisation and weighting) to any of the baseline impact are considered as relevant, expert judgement (e.g. knitting), sensitivity analyses (e.g. printing, accessories, transport between the warehouse and the shop…). Production of textile raw materials Transport of raw materials (transport T-RM) Spinning Transport of yarn (transport T1) Knitting Dyeing Transport of finished fabric (transport T5) Assembly Transport between assembly and warehouse (transport T6) Customer travel Washing Washing machine Drying Ironing T-shirt end of life Cardboard end of life 2155 Annex III – Benchmark and classes of environmental performance 2156 2157 2158 Document all the steps taken to define the benchmark, as a result of the 2nd consultation. Document all the steps taken to define the classes of environmental performance, as a result of the 2nd consultation. 86 2159 Annex IV – Upstream scenarios (optional) 2160 2161 Report describing upstream scenarios and processes as a result of the 1st virtual consultation. 2162 Annex V – Downstream scenarios (optional) 2163 2164 2165 2166 2167 2168 2169 2170 2171 2172 2173 2174 2175 2176 2177 2178 2179 2180 2181 2182 Report describing downstream scenarios and processes as a result of the 1st virtual consultation. 2183 2184 2185 2186 The 40°C washing temperature was chosen based on the outcomes of an A.I.S.E. consumer habit survey which was carried out in 2011, covering Europe. The average laundry washing temperature is 41°C. Around 68% of European loads are washed at or above 40°C (43% are done at 40°C). 40°C was retained in order to have a realistic scenario17. 2187 2188 2189 According to economic data, the markets of laundry detergent liquid and laundry detergent powder are assumed to be equivalent in term of volume18. A distribution of 50/50 is used for the representative product. 2190 Annex VI – Normalisation factors 2191 2192 2193 List normalisation factors to be used in the PEFCR pilot phase 2194 Table 74 - Recommended Normalisation Factors (NFs) for EU-27 (2010) based on the domestic inventory Lifetime is an important parameter when the environmental impacts of products are studied with Life Cycle Assessment7, 8. Some studies were done to evaluate the lifetime of products thanks to the measurement of technical properties (e.g. abrasion resistance, colour durability…)9, 10, 11. This subject was also discussed for the calculation of the environmental footprint for textile products, and no method has been defined yet to quantify the lifetime of textile items and T-shirts in particular12, 1, 4. As this parameter has an important influence on the environmental impacts of products, it is necessary to control it in term of certification / validation aspects (to avoid allegations). As no method is available to quantify the lifetime of T-shirts, it is not possible to introduce a variable lifetime in the PEFCR. Therefore the PEFCR refers to standard (typical) lifetime. The “T-shirts” PEFCR assumes that T-shirts have a standard lifetime of 52 washings5. Washing The washing temperature available on the care label of products corresponds to a maximum washing temperature (washing at higher temperature leads to a degradation of products). This is the temperature used for the maximum scenario. However, this is not the actual temperature at which products are washed. Thus, it cannot be used in the T-shirts PEFCR. Normalisation factors listed in the Table 74 are used19. kg CO2 eq. kg CFC-11 eq. 4,60E+12 1,08E+07 Normalisation Factor per Person (domestic) 9,22E+03 2,16E-02 CTUh 1,84E+04 3,69E-05 Impact category Climate change Ozone depletion Human toxicity - cancer effect Unit Domestic 87 Overall Robustness Very High Medium Low Human toxicity - noncancer effect Acidification Particulate matter/Respiratory Inorganics Ecotoxicity for aquatic fresh water Ionising radiations – human health effects Photochemical ozone formation Eutrophication - terrestrial Eutrophication - freshwater Eutrophication - marine Land use change Resource depletion - water Resource depletion mineral, fossil & renewable CTUh 2,66E+05 5,33E-04 Low mol H+ eq. 2,36E+10 4,73E+01 High kg PM2.5 eq. 1,90E+09 3,80E+00 Very High CTUe 4,36E+12 8,74E+03 Low kBq U235 eq. (to air) 5,64E+11 1,13E+03 Medium kg NMVOC eq. 1,58E+10 3,17E+01 Medium mol N eq. kg P eq. kg N eq. kg C deficit m3 water eq. 8,76E+10 7,41E+08 8,44E+09 3,74E+13 4,06E+10 1,76E+02 1,48E+00 1,69E+01 7,48E+04 8,14E+01 Medium Medium to Low Medium to Low Medium Medium to Low kg Sb eq. 5,03E+07 1,01E-01 Medium 2195 Annex VII – Weighting factors 2196 2197 2198 2199 List alternative weighting approaches tested as “additional” compared to the baseline approach (i.e. all impact categories shall receive the same weight in the baseline approach). 2200 Table 75 - Weighting Factors Weighting factors available in the Table 75 are used32. Impact category Weighting factors Climate change Ozone depletion Human toxicity - cancer effect Human toxicity - non-cancer effect Acidification Particulate matter/Respiratory Inorganics Ecotoxicity for aquatic fresh water Ionising radiations – human health effects Photochemical ozone formation Eutrophication - terrestrial Eutrophication - freshwater Eutrophication - marine Land use change Resource depletion - water Resource depletion - mineral, fossil & renewable 0,06667 0,06667 0,06667 0,06667 0,06667 0,06667 0,06667 0,06667 0,06667 0,06667 0,06667 0,06667 0,06667 0,06667 0,06667 2201 88 2202 Annex VIII – Foreground data 2203 2204 2205 2206 2207 Including a list of mandatory substances/elementary flows in the foreground system to be collected. 2208 Annex IX – Background data 2209 2210 2211 2212 2213 2214 2215 2216 2217 List of generic and semi-specific data that shall be used in the PEFCR Details on foreground data to be collected are available in section 6 in the main PEFCR document. In Table 76 a list of generic datasets used in the PEF screening study is reported. These datasets shall be used in the supporting studies, unless free datasets meeting the data quality requirements will be available. The TS will investigate the availability of free dataset in the supporting studies (e.g. LCDN, ELCD…), therefore the below list shall be revised before the drafting of the final PEFCR. Table 76 - List of generic datasets used in the PEF screening study Life cycle stages Processes LCI database Production of conventional cotton fibres Cycleco database This inventory was provided by thinkstep (formerly PE INTERNATIONAL). It is relative to the LCA study on behalf of Textile Exchange Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database ELCD ELCD ELCD Production of organic cotton fibres Textile raw materials Transport Spinning Production of polyester granulates Production of polyester fibres Production of viscose fibres Production of polyamide 6.6 fibres Production of polypropylene fibres Production of acrylic fibres Production of sheep wool fibres Production of elastane Production of chlorofibre fibres Production of flax fibres Production of silk (cocoon) Production of hemp fibres Lorry transport Boat transport Plane transport Production of electricity (medium voltage) (need in term of datasets: all the countries and regions) Production of heat (need in term of datasets: production of heat from coal, biomass, heavy fuel oil and natural gas) Production of tap water 2218 89 EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database Spinning For spinning: - lubricating oil (mineral oil, derivatives of natural, harvestable raw materials or other lubricating oil) For synthetic fibres scouring: - alcali (sodium carbonate or sodium hydroxide) - chelating agent (synonymous: sequestering/complexing agents) (EDTA, DTPA, Production of NTA, gluconates, chemicals phosphonates or polyacrylates) - ethoxylated alcohols (AE3 and AE7) - ammonia (liquid) - stabilizer (sodium pyrophosphate, trisodium phosphate, sodium silicate or other stabilizer) For wet spinning of elastane: - dimethyacetamide Waste water treatment (choice between 3 levels of efficiency) (Cf. Section “Primary data from industry (e.g. energy consumption, water consumption, etc.)” in the chapter 6.3 Requirements regarding foreground specific data collection) Treatment of textile waste (production waste) It includes: recycling (production of thermal insulation) (11%), incineration (with energy recovery) (36%), incineration (without energy recovery) (1,4%) and landfill (51,6%) Diesel (for the reeling of silk) Natural gas (for the reeling of silk) Hard coal (for the reeling of silk) Spinning, production of cotton yarn, carded process (p-agg process for electricity) Spinning, production of cotton yarn, combed yarn (p-agg process for electricity) Spinning, production of polyester filament (p-agg process for electricity) Spinning, production of yarn (produced with staple fibres) for synthetic fibres (polyester, polyamide, polypropylene, chlorofibre, acrylic) (p-agg process for electricity) Spinning, production of viscose yarn (p-agg process for electricity) Spinning, production of wool yarn, carded process (p-agg process for electricity) 90 EcoInvent database Cycleco database Cycleco database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database Cycleco database EcoInvent database Cycleco database Cycleco database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Sizing Knitting Dyeing / Printing Spinning, production of wool yarn, combed yarn (p-agg process for electricity) Spinning, production of elastane filament (p-agg process for electricity) Spinning, production of flax yarn (p-agg process for electricity) Spinning, production of silk yarn (p-agg process for electricity t) Spinning, production of hemp yarn (p-agg process for electricity) Production of electricity (medium voltage) (need in term of datasets: all the countries and regions) Production of heat (need in term of datasets: production of heat from coal, biomass, heavy fuel oil and natural gas) Production of tap water - modified starch Production of - paraffin chemicals - diethylene glycol Waste water treatment (3 levels of efficiency) (Cf. Section “Primary data from industry (e.g. energy consumption, water consumption, etc.)” in the chapter 6.3 Requirements regarding foreground specific data collection) Treatment of textile waste (production waste) It includes: recycling (production of thermal insulation) (11%), incineration (with energy recovery) (36%), incineration (without energy recovery) (1,4%) and landfill (51,6%) Sizing for natural yarn (p-agg process for electricity) Sizing for synthetic yarn (p-agg process for electricity) Average sizing (mix between synthetic and natural yarn) (p-agg process for electricity) Electricity (medium voltage) (need in term of datasets: all the countries and regions) Treatment of textile waste (production waste) It includes: recycling (production of thermal insulation) (11%), incineration (with energy recovery) (36%), incineration (without energy recovery) (1,4%) and landfill (51,6%) Knitting (p-agg for electricity) Production of electricity (medium voltage) (need in term of datasets: all the countries and regions) Production of heat (need in term of datasets: production of heat from coal, biomass, heavy fuel oil and natural gas) 91 Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database EcoInvent database Cycleco database Cycleco database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database Production of tap water For dyeing: - ethoxylated alcohols (AE3 and AE7) - salt (sodium chloride or sodium sulphate) - sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3) - soda (powder) - sodium hypochlorite (15% in H2O) - urea - sodium silicate - anti reduction agent (3nitrobenzenesulfonic acid, hydrogen peroxide or perborate) - chelating agent (synonymous: sequestering/complexing agents) (EDTA, DTPA, NTA, gluconates, phosphonates or polyacrylates) - acetic acid (98% in H2O) - fixing agent (potassium aluminum sulfate) Production of - ammonia (liquid) chemicals sodium hyposulfite (Na2S2O3) - hydrogen peroxide (50% in H2O) - thickener (carboxymethyl cellulose or polyacrylates) - sodium dithionite (anhydrous) - sodium ethanoate (CH3COONa) - ammonium sulphate - carrier (halogenated benzenes, aromatic hydrocarbons, phenols, carboxylic acid and their esters, alkyl phthalimides; and emulsifier, or other carrier) - one reactive dye (disregarding color) - one disperse dye (disregarding color) - one direct dye (disregarding color) - one vat dye (disregarding color) 92 EcoInvent database EcoInvent database Cycleco database Cycleco database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database EcoInvent database Cycleco database EcoInvent database Cycleco database EcoInvent database Cycleco database EcoInvent database Cycleco database EcoInvent database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database - one acid dye (disregarding color) - non foaming agent (mineral oils, silicone derivatives, phosphoric esters, high molecular alcohols, fluorine derivatives and mixture of these components) - softening agent (quaternary ammonium compounds or other cationic surfactant) For desizing: - Ethoxylated alcohols (AE3 and AE7) - Alcali (sodium carbonate or sodium hydroxide) - Chelating agent (synonymous: sequestering/complexing agents) (EDTA, DTPA, NTA, gluconates, phosphonates or polyacrylates) - Salt (sodium chloride or sodium sulphate) - Acetic acid (98% in H2O) - Sodium hydroxide (50% in H2O) - Magnesium sulphate - Sodium silicate - Sodium persulfate Enzym (amylase) - Note: enzyms can also be used in other processes: - Scouring (cotton): pectinases, lipases, pectate lyases - Bleaching (cotton): laccases, glucose oxydases - Degradation of residual H2O2 after bleaching (cotton): peroxidases - Biopolishing: cellulases - Antibacterial treatment: cellulase - Scouring (wool): lipases - anti-shrinkage (wool): proteases - Degumming (silk): proteolytic enzymes (serine protease or other) - Retting / softening (flax): hemicellulases, pectinase, xylanase - Hydrophilisation (polyester) : cutinase, esterases, lipases 93 Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database EcoInvent database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database Cycleco database EcoInvent database Cycleco database Finishing - Hydrophilisation (polyamide): proteases, cutinases, amidases - Hydrophilisation (polyacrilonitrile): nitrile hydratases, cutinase Waste water treatment (choice between 3 levels of efficiency for the WWTP) (Cf. Section “Primary data from industry (e.g. energy consumption, water consumption, etc.)” in the chapter 6.3 Requirements regarding foreground specific data collection) Treatment of textile waste (production waste) It includes: recycling (production of thermal insulation) (11%), incineration (with energy recovery) (36%), incineration (without energy recovery) (1,4%) and landfill (51,6%) Yarn dyeing (p-agg process for electricity) Fabric dyeing (p-agg process for electricity) Apparel dyeing (p-agg process for electricity) Fix-washed printing (p-agg process for electricity) Pigment printing (p-agg process for electricity) Production of electricity (medium voltage) (need in term of datasets: all the countries and regions) Production of heat (need in term of datasets: production of heat from coal, biomass, heavy fuel oil and natural gas) Production of tap water For anti-bacterial finishing: Anti-bacterial agent (zinc pyrithione, polyvinylchloride, permethrine, Folpet, isothiazolinone, silver chloride or other antibacterial agent) Production of chemicals Polyvinylchloride Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database Cycleco database EcoInvent database - Binder (dimethylol urea and dimethylol urea derivatives, DMDHEU, DMDHEU derivatives, melamine formaldehyde condensation products or modified dimethyldihydroxyethylene urea) For stain resistant finishing: - Solvent (acetone, methanol or other solvent) 94 Cycleco database Cycleco database - Assembly Accessories Amphiphilic agent (carboxy-based finishes (acrylic copolymer or other), hydroxy-based finishes (methyl cellulose or other) or ethoxy-based finishes ( polyester-ether condensation copolymer or other)) - Ethoxylated alcohols (AE3 and AE7) - Binder (dimethylol urea and dimethylol urea derivatives, DMDHEU, DMDHEU derivatives, melamine formaldehyde condensation products ormodified dimethyldihydroxyethylene urea) - Fluorocarbon agent (chloro-2-hydroxypropyl acrylate or other fluorocarbon agent) Waste water treatment (3 levels of efficiency) (Cf. Section “Primary data from industry (e.g. energy consumption, water consumption, etc.)” in the chapter 6.3 Requirements regarding foreground specific data collection) Treatment of textile waste (production waste) It includes: recycling (production of thermal insulation) (11%), incineration (with energy recovery) (36%), incineration (without energy recovery) (1,4%) and landfill (51,6%) Anti-bacterial finishing (p-agg process for electricity) Stain resistant finishing (p-agg process for electricity) Production of electricity (medium voltage) (need in term of datasets: all the countries and regions) Waste treatment Assembly (it includes cutting, sewing, ironing, trimming application, folding and all the production steps prior to packaging) Seam yarn Woven label (woven fabric in PES) Double hangtag Adhesive sticker Cardboard Metal buttons (zinc or other metal) Plastic buttons (polyethylene terephthalate) 95 Cycleco database EcoInvent database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database EcoInvent database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database Cycleco database Cycleco database Packaging Wood buttons Zips (20% slider, 35% teeth in PES, 45% ribbon in PES) Strass Metal snaps (steel or other metal) Plastic snaps (polyethylene terephthalate) Plastic link Elastic Plastic bag (PP) Corrugated cardboard Warehouse Warehouse (distribution center) Production of electricity (medium voltage) (need in term of datasets: all the countries and regions) Production of heat (need in term of datasets: production of heat from coal, biomass, heavy fuel oil and natural gas) Production of tap water Wastewater treatment Transport between warehouse and shop Retail place Customer travel Washing h Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database Cycleco database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database Quantis data and EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database Van EcoInvent database Retail place Quantis data and EcoInvent database Production of electricity (medium voltage) (need in term of datasets: all the countries and regions) Production of tap water Table Chair IT equipment (computer) Cart Steel shelves Film (LDPE…) Services Services Cycleco database Security Accounting IT services Legal affairs Marketing Bus Bicycle Car Motorcycles Subway / Tram 40°C washing (“normal” cycle) (p-agg dataset for electricity) 40°C washing (“gentle” cycle) US environmental input/output LCA 96 EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database Quantis data and US EIOLCA DBh database US EIOLCA DB database US EIOLCA DB database US EIOLCA DB database US EIOLCA DB database US EIOLCA DB database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database Cycleco database Cycleco database (p-agg dataset for electricity) Electricity (low voltage) (need in term of datasets: all European countries and Europe) Washing machine Drying Ironing T-shirts end of life Plastic bag end of life Cardboard end of life Electricity (low voltage) (need in term of datasets: all European countries and Europe) Electricity (low voltage) (need in term of datasets: all European countries and Europe) Recycling in rags (ErecyclingEOL) Recycling in insulation material (ErecyclingEOL) Production of glass wool (E*V) Production of paper rags (E*V) Incineration (with energy recovery) (EER) Incineration (without energy recovery) (ED) Landfilling of T-shirts (ED) Production of heat in Europe (ESE, heat) Production of low voltage electricity in Europe (ESE, elec) Recycling in polypropylene granulates (ErecyclingEOL) Production of polypropylene granulates (E*V) Incineration with energy recovery of polypropylene (EER) Landfilling of polypropylene (ED) Incineration without energy recovery of polypropylene (ED) Recycling of the cardboard (ErecyclingEOL) Production of core board (E*V) Incineration with energy recovery of packaging cardboard (EER) Landfilling of packaging cardboard (ED) Incineration without energy recovery of packaging cardboard (ED) ELCD Quantis data and EcoInvent database ELCD ELCD Cycleco database Cycleco database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database ELCD Cycleco database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database EcoInvent database Sources: - Cycleco database46 - LCA study on organic cotton on behalf of Textile Exchange48 - ELCD database49 - EcoInvent database50 2219 2220 Annex X – EOL formulas 2221 2222 2223 2224 2225 2226 2227 List of alternative formulas tested as “additional” compared to the baseline approach specified in the PEF Guide (if appropriate). Report of the sensitivity analysis carried out by the Technical Secretariat. A study of the French end of life formula compared to the PEF guide end of life formula was done during the PEF screening. 97 2228 2229 2230 2231 2232 2233 2234 2235 In the French « Apparel products » PCR, a 0/100 distribution was applied (this formula is detailed in the BPX30-323-0). It allocates 100% of the benefits and of the impacts associated to recycling to the product which integrates the recycled material. This choice of formula was made so as to incite the use of recycled raw material. 2236 2237 Annex XI – Background information on methodological choices taken during the development of the PEFCR 2238 2239 Provide detailed information about the justification for methodological decisions taken (e.g. selection of impact categories, additional environmental information, etc) 2240 Calculation of the correction factor 2241 For women A comparative study between the PEF guide’s end of life formula (50/50 distribution) and the BPX30-323-0 (0/100 allocation) end of life formula is available in the PEF screening report (Annex I). T-shirt with long sleeves Size Weight (in g) T2 95,0 Weight difference (%) T-shirt with long sleeves Size Weight (in g) Size Weight (in g) T0 T1 T2 T3 T4 T5 T6 or 36 or T40 or T42 or T44 or T46 or T48 or T50 136,0 T-shirt with short sleeves Size Weight (in g) Size Weight (in g) Weight difference (%) 144,0 152,0 156,0 162,0 176,0 2,94% 2,86% 5,56% 2,63% 3,85% 8,64% 38 89,2 40 42 93,8 98,3 101,7 5,23% 4,80% 3,39% T2 T3 T4 130,0 139,3 147,0 5,69% 7,18% 5,50% T0 T1 T2 T3 T4 T5 T6 or 36 or T40 or T42 or T44 or T46 or T48 or T50 T1 123,0 120,0 Weight difference (%) T-shirt without sleeves (viscose/EA) 140,0 36 Weight difference (%) T-shirt with short Size sleeves (polyester / Weight (in g) metalized fibres) Weight difference (%) 97,5 2,63% Weight difference (%) T-shirt with short sleeves T3 125,0 130,0 138,0 148,0 154,0 162,0 4,17% 4,00% 6,15% 7,25% 4,05% 5,19% T2 T3 T4 T1 80,7 89,8 95,8 105,7 11,36% 6,68% 10,26% 98 T-shirt without sleeves (cotton) Size Weight (in g) T2 T3 74,0 79,0 Weight difference (%) T-shirt without sleeves Size Weight (in g) 6,8% T0 T1 T2 T3 T4 T5 T6 or 36 or T40 or T42 or T44 or T46 or T48 or T50 70,0 Weight difference (%) Average for long sleeves T-shirts Average for short sleeves T-shirts Average for T-shirt without sleeves Average for women T-shirts 74,0 80,0 86,0 90,0 95,0 100,0 5,71% 8,11% 7,50% 4,65% 5,56% 5,26% 3,52% 5,24% 7,44% 5,64% 2242 2243 For men T-shirt with short sleeves (cotton) Size Weight (in g) M L 132,0 Weight difference (%) T-shirt with short sleeves (cotton) Size Weight (in g) M 132,0 Weight difference (%) Size Polo (cotton) Weight (in g) M 208,0 Weight difference (%) Average for short sleeves T-shirts Average for Polo Average for men T-shirts XL 136,0 142,0 3,03% 4,41% L XL 139,0 148,0 5,30% 6,47% L XL 220,0 234,0 5,77% 6,36% 4,80% 6,07% 5,23% 2244 2245 Drying process: calculation of the rate of use 2246 2247 It is necessary to consider two information to define the distribution between air drying and tumble dryer: 2248 2249 - the equipment rate (percentage of population equipped with a tumble dryer) the tumble dryer use rate (i.e. how consumers use their tumble dryer). 2250 2251 2252 The equipment rate was defined based on the average penetration rates for Western (34,4%) and Eastern Europe (1%)20 weighted with the respective populations. This leads to an equipment rate of 27%. 2253 2254 The tumble dryer use rate is defined thanks to PricewaterhouseCoopers’ study (2009). This study contains the results of a survey conducted on consumers in France, in the United Kingdom 99 2255 2256 2257 2258 and in Poland20. 86% of the people being questioned (648 people) use a tumble dryer. This rate was deliberately ordered to be high from the company conducting the survey in order to ensure relevant results for dryer owners, but yet include some votes from people frequenting launderettes. 2259 2260 The study shows different consumer behaviours from one country to another, but on the average, the results presented in both figures hereunder are obtained. 2261 2262 Figure 5 - Results of PricewaterhouseCoopers’ study: Drying laundry in summer 100 2263 2264 Figure 6 - Results of PricewaterhouseCoopers’ study: Drying laundry in winter 2265 2266 If we study the following choices, that are « Always » and « Often », the results hereafter are obtained (Table 77). 2267 2268 Table 77 – Use of drying appliance in summer and winter Summer Results Distribution extracted from without / the study (sum with drying for "Always" appliance et "Often") In the flat/house in an indoor unheated room and not in an appliance In the flat/house in an indoor heated room and not in an appliance Winter Results extracted Distribution Results for from the without / Results for 100% study (sum with drying 100% for "Always" appliance et "Often") 15% 18% 24% 102% 72% 36% Outside, on the clothes line 69% 11% In a cabinet dryer (at home) 3% 4% In a tumble dryer (at home) 24% 50% In a launderette 3% In a communal laundry room (in a laundry dryer) 5% Other TOTAL 4% 141% 35% 25% 5% 71% 49% 67% 46% 7% 145% 5% 100% 8% 4% 141% 2269 101 3% 100% 7% 145% 2270 2271 On the average, over one year (hypothesis: 6 months in the summer, 6 months in the winter), this corresponds to the use of a tumble dryer (or other drying appliance) in 36% of the cases. 2272 2273 2274 2275 2276 2277 The PricewaterhouseCoopers’ study (2009) also gives the average number of dryings in the summer and in the winter: 2,34 cycles/week/family in the summer versus 3,62 cycles/week/family in the winter. Based on this, and considering an average number of washings of 220 cycles per year21, the IMPRO-TEX study concludes to a real utilization rate of 71%22. However, this 220 cycles/year average number of washings does not come from the same study and therefore raises a coherence issue. 2278 2279 2280 The « Analysis and recovery of measurement campaigns on electric use in the residential sector » study published by ADEME, provides the average monthly ratio of the number of drying cycles compared to the number of washing cycles27. 2281 2282 2283 In July, the tumble dryer is used once for 4,3 washing cycles (23% use rate). And in December, once for 1,6 washing cycles (63% use rate). Over the year, the study shows an average use of the tumble dryer in 41% of the cases, i.e. one tumble dryer drying for 2,4 washing cycles. 2284 2285 2286 2287 Taking these results into account, the real rate of use was identified on the basis of the study conducted by PricewaterhouseCoopers (2009), leading to a real tumble dryer use rate of 36%. These results are consistent with the study published by ADEME and have an advantage: they were conducted on three European countries (France, the United Kingdom and Poland). 2288 Assumptions: 2289 2290 2291 - Equipment rate: 27%20, 22 Tumble dryer use rate: 36% i.e. a final tumble dryer use rate of 10% 102