Transcript
Report Index INTRODUCTION-CONDITION- DEFINITIONS-DATA
2
ROOF
5
EXTERIOR AND SITE
10
ATTIC AREA, VENTILATION, INSULATION
17
INTERIOR SPACES, FIREPLACE & WOOD STOVE
19
BATHROOMS
25
KITCHEN & APPLIANCES
28
BASEMENT AND STRUCTURE
31
PLUMBING & HOT WATER
35
ELECTRICAL
38
HEATING & COOLING
43
TRADESMEN SUGGESTED FOR EVALUATIONS/REPAIR
47
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INTRODUCTION-CONDITION- DEFINITIONSDATA INTRODUCTION This is a sample report for jimtebo.com. This report is intended only as a general guide to help the client make his/her own evaluation of the overall condition of the home/building, and is not intended to reflect the value of the premises, nor make any representation as to the advisability of purchase. The report expresses the personal opinions of the inspector, based upon his visual impressions of the conditions that existed at the time of the inspection only. The inspection and report are not intended to be technically exhaustive, or to imply that every component was inspected, or that every possible defect was discovered. No disassembly of equipment; opening of walls; moving of furniture, appliances or stored items; or excavation was performed. All components and conditions which by the nature of their location are unseen, concealed, camouflaged or difficult to inspect are excluded from the report. An "unseen dangers" professional should be able to discover whether there are any hidden problems, but I am not retained to do so and issue no opinion on any "unseen dangers". CONDITION DEFINITIONS FUNCTIONAL: Performing it's intended purpose or function(s) in full. No indications of non-performance or need for repair were observed. (Note: An item may work well and be near the end of lifespan and still be rated functional.) FUNCTIONAL with EXCEPTIONS: Performing ONLY PART, BUT NOT ALL of its intended function. Repairs or corrections are needed to restore its full function &/or normal life expectancy. NOT FUNCTIONAL: NOT performing its intended function or having UNSAFE conditions. Repairs, corrections or replacement needed to restore safety and function. UNSAFE: A condition that may cause property damage, personal injury or threatens the life or health of the occupants. Urgent repairs, corrections or replacement needed for safety. NOT VISIBLE: Items which cannot be visually examined. NOT ACCESSIBLE: Items which were concealed at time of inspection and require further research by you. SHUT DOWN: A piece of equipment or system is shut-down when it cannot be operated by the device or control which a home owner would use to normally operate it. The true functional condition of equipment or systems in a shut-down condition is undetermined. Further research is advised. NOTE: THIS IS NOT A CODE COMPLIANCE REPORT. ANY REFRENCE TO THE BUILDING CODE OR CODE INFRACTIONS IS INTENDED TO PROVIDE A PERFORMANCE BENCHMARK OF WHAT CONSTITUTES ACCEPTABLE CONDITIONS. THE HOME INSPECTOR DOES NOT COVER ALL CODE COMPLIANCE ISSUES. CONTACT LOCAL OFFICIALS REGARDING CODE ISSUES.
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CLIENT: Name: Report will be delivered
John Smith. via email link to server. An electronic copy will be securely retained in our office should you need a copy in the future.
PROPERTY INSPECTED: Address:
Sample Lane.
City/State/Zip: Approximate years age of construction: Building Style:
Sampleville, MA.
Front exposure:
150 Wood framed GREEK REVIVAL (1830-1870). NOTE: Since this building was constructed prior to 1978 (when lead paint was outlawed) there is the possibility that lead paint could exist. Lead paint testing is not included in this inspection, therefore a separate lead paint testing firm must be contacted if lead paint testing is desired. West
PEOPLE PRESENT: Buyer. Listing broker. Selling broker.
INSPECTION PERFORMED BY: Jim Tebo, Massachusetts License No. 437.
WEATHER CONDITIONS AT TIME OF INSPECTION: DATA: Temperature (degrees F) at time of inspection:
Partly cloudy sky.
72
UTILITIES, SYSTEMS OR APPLIANCES THAT WERE SHUT-DOWN: Conditions:
All utilities were operational at time of inspection.
OBSTACLES ENCOUNTERED DURING INSPECTION: No access provided to attic space.
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OPTIONS ELECTED BY CLIENT: None.
MODIFICATIONS DONE DURING OWNER OCCUPANCY: You should ask the owner if any modifications were done during occupancy. (Mass. State Code section 113.1 explains when a permit is required:)
SIX QUESTIONS In accordance with the Rules and Regulations of the Commonwealth of Massachusetts Board of Registration of Home Inspectors (CMR266), all licensed home inspectors are required to ascertain the answers to the following six (6) questions from the seller or the seller's agent. I have provided you with a copy of this document at the Home Inspection. If the parties involved were not present or the questions were not fully answered at the Home Inspection you are advised to complete the six questions before you assume ownership. 1. Is there a history of water penetration in the basement and/or crawl space? 2. Is the dwelling on a public or private sewer system? 3. Has the dwelling been tested for radon gas? 4. Has the dwelling ever been inspected for insect infestation? 5. Has the dwelling been previously inspected by a Home Inspector and if so, is the seller willing to disclose the report? 6. Is there an underground fuel storage tank on the property.
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ROOF Scope of the roof inspection: The inspector shall observe the following: roof coverings, roof drainage system, flashings, skylights, chimneys and roof penetrations and signs of leaks or abnormal condensation on building components. (Note: The inspector is NOT required to walk on the roof. The method of roof inspection is a judgement call based upon access and the inspector's safety.) Disclaimers: A. The true condition of roof components covered by SNOW is undetermined and EXCLUDED from this report. B. The inspector is not required to observe attached accessories including but not limited to solar systems, antennae and lightning arrestors. C. Because of the many factors contributing to the adequacy of a roofing installation, Jim Tebo Home Inspections, Inc. cannot warrant such adequacy and can only comment on those installation features that are readily accessible and identifiable by visual inspection - inaccessible areas are excluded. Any additional investigation would require "destructive testing" of the installation to explore roof decking, underlayments, nailing schedules and many other factors not evident in a visual examination. D. This report is NOT a guarantee against roof leakage as climatic conditions such as high winds, wind driven rain, snow loads, winter ice dams and sun degredation can cause unpredictable leakage with any roof. General roof comments: A. Most asphalt roof coverings have a 20 year life expectancy. The roof covering is not designed to last the life of the home, future replacement should be budgeted. Estimates for any repairs or replacement should be obtained from a licensed & insured roofing contractor. B. I recommend that all chimneys be inspected annually by a certified member of the chimney sweep guild. Such safety precaution will ensure that harmful combustion gases are safely vented outside. C. Gutters should be cleaned and inspected for proper pitch annually. E. Each downspout should discharge water away from the foundation to prevent wet basement problems.
ROOF DATA: Inspection of Roof was Performed: Roof Type:
By walking on roof. Gable roof. Flat pitched rear shed roof dormer.
Surface Condition: Estimated Age:
Surface appears even with no noticeable sagging. Front asphalt shingles and rubber roof 10 years. Rear asphalt shingles 15-20 years.
SURFACE MATERIAL: Material Type:
Asphalt/fiberglass composition three-tab strip shingles (average lifespan = 1220 years). EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) single ply rubber membrane roofing (average lifespan = 20-30 years).
STOPFEL-15916 Condition: Comments: Additional Comments:
Page 6 FUNCTIONAL with EXCEPTIONS as noted: Some aging and erosion was observed in older rear shingles. Wear is consistent with age of shingles. Though the design life of rubber membrane roofs is 20-30 years, the weak "link" is the glued seams/joints. Over time the glue can break down and the seams can separate. See picture. Seams can easily be repaired/replaced as needed. I suggest that rubber roofs (seams) be inspected every 3 or 4 years for any signs of deterioration so repairs can done before any leakage occurs.
FLASHINGS: Flashing Type:
Condition:
Aluminum flange and rubber collar at plumbing vent pipe. Metal flashing at sidewall/roof intersection. Flashing at chimneys has been formed with rubber (EPDM) roofing. FUNCTIONAL.
EAVES and ROOF TRIM: Fascias: Comments: Soffits: Comments: Rake Boards: Comments: Cornices: Comments:
FUNCTIONAL with EXCEPTIONS NOTED: Peeling and flaking paint/stain observed. FUNCTIONAL with EXCEPTIONS as NOTED: Peeling and flaking paint/stain observed. FUNCTIONAL with EXCEPTIONS as NOTED: Peeling and flaking paint/stain observed. FUNCTIONAL with EXCEPTIONS as NOTED: Peeling and flaking paint/stain observed. Original wood gutters used to form a mitered joint with ends of cornices. Now that wood gutters have been removed the end of cornice is open to weather, decay, insects, birds or rodents. See picture. All open cornice ends should be sealed.
NOTE: I recommend that any wood used to replace roof trim be preprimed on all sides or consider using composite polyurethane or cellular PVC trim boards and moldings. Unlike wood this non-wood material will not decay, shrink, warp, twist, cup, crack or peel. It will also readily accept and hold paint. Two well known manufacturers are FYPON( 800-537-5394, fypon.com) and MIRATEC(800-255-0785, miratectrim.com).
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SKYLIGHTS/ROOF WINDOWS Condition:
FUNCTIONAL. No visible problems observed.
CHIMNEYS: Type of Chimney(s):
Condition:
Older unlined interior brick chimneys. (Note: An unlined chimney does not conform with present fire safety construction requirements. Optional chimney liner updating is advised).
No visible problems observed in left chimney. Right chimney is FUNCTIONAL with exceptions as NOTED: (Note: Not all parts of a chimney are accessible for inspection.)
Comments:
Additional Comments:
The cement crown at the top of the right chimney is cracked, broken, loose or eroded and bricks are loose. See picture. A mason or chimney sweep should rebuild the top of the chimney and crown and seal with "Crown Saver" to prevent future cracks/damage.
Eroded mortar joints were observed in right chimney. See picture. Repointing repairs needed. Consult a mason and repair as required. Loose or missing bricks were observed. This is an UNSAFE condition. Loose bricks could block the flue or cause property damage or personal injury. Most masonry materials are porous and will absorb large amounts of water which could enter the interior of the house and will slowly deteriorate the chimney.
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Page 8 Therefore, I suggest that a good vapor permeable (allows the chimney to breathe out, but prevents water from being absorbed in ) masonry sealer be applied to all chimneys as needed.
Additional Comments:
No cap installed on right chimney. See picture. In my opinion every chimney should have a cap and if a fireplace or wood/coal stove is present a spark arrestor screen is needed. A cap will reduce the chances of physical damage to chimney, flues, smoke pipes and fireplace walls, hearths and dampers, thus saving many times the cost of the cap. A cap will also prevent unwanted animals and birds from entering flues and fireplaces. Please be aware that the chimney draft could be affected by installation of a cap, consult a chimney sweep or mason.
Looking down unlined flues from top I observed that mortar joints have eroded over time. See picture. Further inspection by a chimney sweep or mason is recommended. Consider lining flues. I suggest that you hire a qualified chimney sweep to clean & further inspect the chimney(s)/ flue(s)for safety and potential hidden problems as not all parts of the chimney may be visible to the inspector. NOTE: To totally evaluate the flue(s), a "chim-scan" video tool is used by some chimney sweeps. Be advised that such scans may reveal defects that were inaccessible to the home inspector and they are particularly useful in inspecting old unlined fireplace flues.
GUTTERS: Type: Condition: Comments:
Vinyl (PVC). (Note: Vinyl gutters/downspouts are not very durable in this climate as they are prone to damage when frozen). FUNCTIONAL with EXCEPTIONS NOTED: Bent, counterpitched/sagging or damaged gutters should be replaced as needed. See picture. I recommend that any old, leaky, decayed, deteriorated or damaged gutters be removed, any decayed fascia/soffit boards be replaced, and that new seamless aluminum gutters be installed.
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DOWNSPOUTS: Type: Condition: Comments:
Vinyl (PVC). FUNCTIONAL. Extend and divert downspouts further away from base of house to reduce seepage into basement.
ADDITIONAL COMMENTS: Information:
The following is information regarding shingles that may be helpful in the future. When replacing shingles remember that the lighter the shingle color the longer the shingle life. Light colored shingles reflect heat and UV rays from the sun more effectively than dark shingles. Asphalt shingles are graded according to their weight per square (100 square feet when laid). Heavier, thicker shingles may be expected to last longer. For a modest upgrade in price I suggest that archtectural shingles should always be used instead of the common three-tab strip shingles. Architectural shingles are built up to be about twice as thick as a normal shingle with the layers staggered to give them a heavier, more substantial or "architectural" look. These shingles also represent an excellent value with up to 30 year guarantees as opposed to a 15-20 year guarantee with a common three-tab shingle. Please be aware that there are two types of asphalt shingles; one has a base of fiberglass felt mat, the other has a base of organic cellulosic felt mat. All across the country roofs are being discovered that have cracked fiberglass asphalt shingles. It typically shows up three to six years after the shingles have been installed. It is believed that the cracks are caused by dimensional changes in the shingles themselves as they respond to temperature changes. If you are contemplating reshingling your roof in the near future it may be wise to specify that only organic cellulosic based asphalt shingles be used. Though reshingling over existing shingles (up to 2 layers) is allowed, I feel that improved installation and shingle life is gained by stripping off old shingles and exposing the roof deck. In this way the roof deck can be inspected for decay, voids or structural problems. New shingles cannot be installed over wide spaced roof boards and the installation over any dimensional lumber (roof boards/shiplap boards) is not recommended by shingle manufacturers as it may cause buckling problems and buckling is not covered by their warranty. If necessary the roof deck should be resheathed with approved plywood. Before reshingling, all roof penetrations (chimneys, plumbing vents, roof windows, skylights, etc.) should be checked for repair/replacement of flashing. Remember that the majority of roof leaks are related to flashing, not shingles. Next the underlayment (30# felt paper), ice and water protection at eaves, and rake and eaves flashing should be installed. A note about ice and water protection at eaves; the water proof bituminous membrane used is sticky on one side and seals around nails. It comes in 3' wide rolls and most roofers lay a 3' strip only at eaves for ice dam protection. I like to cover the entire roof for leak protection, especially where wind-blown horizontal rain can penetrate under the shingles. I also like to run the membrane at least 8" to 10" up any vertical walls that intersect roof (such as dormer cheek walls) and up under chimney flashing.
Shingles should be applied following manufacturers instructions using galvanized (zinc coated) roofing nails (not staples). A typical 3-tab strip shingle requires 4 nails, however in high wind areas, on steep slopes or during cold weather application 6 nails are advised.
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EXTERIOR AND SITE Scope of exterior inspection: The inspector shall observe: wall cladding, flashing and trim, entryway doors, a representative sample of windows, garage door operators, decks, balconies, stoops, steps, areaways, porches (including railings), eaves, soffits and fascias. Also, vegetation, grading, drainage, driveways, patios, walkways and retaining walls with respect to their effect on the condition of the building. Disclaimers: The following exterior items are EXCLUDED from this report: A. Components covered by SNOW. True conditions are undetermined and require further research by you. B. Paint or stain finishes on siding & trim. C. The condition of unknown underlying siding materials. D. Detached structures such as sheds, barns, pool house, pump house etc. E. The location of property lines. F. Swimming pools, hot tubs, jacuzzis, saunas or spas. G. Underground oil tanks. H. Bridges, seawalls, docks, piers or floats, including steps or stairways to the afoementioned. I. Lawn/shrub irrigation systems. J. Depth and adequacy of footings for decks, porches or steps. K. Adequacy of handrails, guardrails and balusters on decks, porches or steps. L. Adequacy of the connections of decks, porches or steps to building. General exterior comments: A. For safety and reduction in liability, the owner of a dwelling is responsible for maintaining all means of egress in a safe, operable condition at all times. In addition, the owner is required to keep all exterior stairways, fire escapes, egress balconies and bridges free of ice and snow. B. A safe handrail is recommended for every stairway used or intended for use by occupants. C. Be advised that all siding materials require maintenance and that those siding materials with Southern exposure usually age at a faster rate. Northern exposed siding is more prone to decay from moisture. D. I recommend that the finish on all wood siding materials be restored at 3-5 year intervals, and that wood preservative be applied to decks annually. E. Exterior drainage conditions should be monitored annually to identify and reduce conditions that may cause basement water infiltration. Soil along the perimeter of the foundation should direct water away from the home by gravity flow at a pitch of 1"/FT for a distance of ten feet. Perimeter gardens should be at a higher elevation than the lawn. Downspouts should have base elbows & splashblocks or extensions to discharge roof water far from the home. F. Maintain a 1-2 foot clearance between all shrubbery & siding for proper ventilation, access and maintenance. G. Be advised that before the installation of new thermal replacement windows, old window sash & trim should be tested for lead paint hazards. H. Verify with property owner exactly who owns fences or walls that border neighbors property. I. All debris and stored items on site should be removed before you take possession of the property. J. It is always a good idea to inquire with owner and local Fire Chief if there is presently or ever has been an underground fuel storage tank on this or any adjacent property. If there is a tank presently in ground it should be removed. If a tank has been removed in the past, request documentation that it was properly removed and disposed of, and if there was a fuel spill that it was properly cleaned. K. Since a pest inspection is not a part of this building inspection, I recommend that all buildings be examined by a qualified, licensed pest control expert.
EXTERIOR BUILDING .
SIDING: Type of Siding: Condition: Comments:
Beveled wood clapboards. FUNCTIONAL with EXCEPTIONS as NOTED: Areas of peeling, flaking or blistered paint/stain were observed. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to determine why the paint is failing, but usually premature paint failure can be attributed to a moisture problem or to poor preparation of the surface. Further investigation is advised.
STOPFEL-15916 Additional Comments:
Page 11 Sections of rear clapboards are wet and decayed. See picture. Decay appears to have extended into sheathing and possibly framing as areas of rear wall are "punky" and easily moved. There may not be adequate flashing/underlayment/housewrap beneath siding. Tarpaper/housewrap (current brand names are "TYVEK" or "TYPAR") is required under siding to inhibit the penetration of wind and rain. Unfortunately, siding cannot be relied upon to stop the infiltration of all water. In my opinion the purpose of the siding is to look good and to hold paint. Actually, the siding does shed most of the water off the house, but it also lets water past, so the backup system of housewrap and flashings must deflect that water and allow it to weep or drain back out from behind the siding before it soaks the sheathing, framing cavity and insulation, resulting in wood decay and mold problems. Further investigation (which involves removal of rear siding/sheathing) is advised to determine the extent of decay/damage, required scope of repair/replacement and cost estimates.
TRIM: Type of Trim: Condition: Comments:
Additional Comments:
Wood. FUNCTIONAL with EXCEPTIONS as NOTED: Decay was observed in rear window casings. See picture. Replace all decayed components.
There are several layers of old paint buildup on trim. Areas of paint are cracked, peeling and "alligatored". Be aware that new paint applied over old paint may have a reduced life span. Removal of all old paint down to bare wood is the correct preparation for repainting.
NOTE: I recommend that any wood used to replace exterior trim be preprimed on all sides or consider using composite polyurethane or cellular PVC trim and moldings. Unlike wood, this non-wood material will not decay, shrink, warp, twist, cup, crack or peel. It will also readily accept and hold paint. Well-known manufacturers are FYPON, MIRATEC, KOMA, KLEER and AZEK. Some can also provide floorboards, railings, balusters, newel posts and columns for decks and porches.
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FOUNDATION ABOVE GRADE: Type: Condition: Comments:
Brick. Cut granite slabs. FUNCTIONAL with EXCEPTIONS NOTED: The mortar joints in right rear bricks have eroded open with age and exposure to the elements. See picture. Hire a mason to re-point the foundation as required. When tuck pointing mortar joints in an older building it is important to try to match the consistency of the original "soft" mortar. A soft lime mortar base should be used as opposed to a hard portland cement. If a hard "unforgiving" mortar is used it may crack and damage bricks. The color of the existing mortar should also be closely matched. Choose a mason who is knowledgeable and experienced in masonry repairs of antique buildings.
BASEMENT SILL, DOOR and WINDOWS: Sill Condition: Basement Door(s):
Door Condition: Comments: Basement Windows Window Condition: Comments:
No access to sill. The siding and trim prevented direct observation and probing of the sills. Wood bulkhead.
FUNCTIONAL with EXCEPTIONS: The wood bulkhead siding and door are decayed at base. Replace all decayed components. Wood windows. FUNCTIONAL with EXCEPTIONS NOTED: Wood sills are in direct soil contact. See picture. This condition promotes decay & insect infestation. Window sills/frames are decayed. Replace all decayed components. The basement windows appear to be aged, greatly deteriorated and past life expectancy. Replacement with vinyl thermal units is advised.
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STEPS: Type: Condition: Comments:
Stone steps. Wood steps. UNSAFE as noted: There is a handrail provided on only one side of rear wood steps. This could be UNSAFE. There should be handrails provided on both sides to avoid injurious trips, slips or falls. The size of handrails are too large to grasp. Current standards require that handrails have a circular cross section with an outside diameter of at least 1-1/4", but not greater than 2". However, any other shape with a perimeter dimension of at least 4", but not greater than 6-1/4" with the largest cross sectional dimension not to exceed 2-5/8" is allowed.
Additional Comments:
Front and rear stone step risers are uneven and too high. Maximum riser height should be no greater than 8-1/4 inches. There should not be variations exceeding 3/16 of an inch in the height of adjacent risers. Good step "geometry" is required to prevent slips, trips and falls, because when the walking conditions encountered are contrary to our expectations, the probability for an accident is greatly increased. Step geometry refers to the combination of risers and treads. Rules of thumb: 2 Risers + Tread = 24 to 25". Riser x Tread = 70 to 77 1/2". Non adherance to these current standards could result in falls and personal injury.
DECKS: Type of deck:
Elevated wood framed decks on first and second levels. Wood framed balcony on third level.
Condition: Comments:
UNSAFE as NOTED: The flashing at connection of decks to house is improperly installed on top of floorboards where water can easily enter. See picture. Decks built against siding/trim should have an air space or adequate flashing properly installed to prevent water from entering which can result in corrosion of nails/bolts at point of connection, and decay and wood destroying insect damage to siding, sheathing, band joist or sill. If bolts/nails are corroded/weakened and there is decayed wood at point of connection the deck could pull away from house and collapse resulting in personal injury.
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Page 14 The decks are inadequately bolted to house. For example, a deck with a span of 10 feet should have two 1/2" bolts every 16" along ledger board. Existing joist hangers are weakened from corrosion and should be replaced. I suggest using hangers with a triple zinc coating or stainless steel joist hangers and nails to avoid future corrosion problems. There are metal joist hangers provided at deck ledger board, but the connection of floor joists to outer rim joist is relying on end or angle nailing alone, and there is separation at connections. I suggest that metal joist hangers be installed at outer rim joists for increased strength. In my opinion ALL connection points between joists, ledgers, girders and posts should be fastened with metal mechanical fasteners, stirrups or joist hangers instead of relying on nails alone. Nailed connections tend to separate and loosen as the wood expands and contracts with the seasons. A variety of metal connectors are readily available. Please note that it is very important that properly sized nails be used in ALL holes provided for them in connectors.
The first level deck railing is not 36-inches high as required - UNSAFE - potential for personal injury. If deck floor is more than 30-inches above grade, then a guard rail a min. of 36-inches high is currently required. The guard rail must have balusters spaced not greater than 4-inches apart. Decayed railings were observed in third floor balcony. This is UNSAFE. The railings should be able to withstand a 200 lb. force in any direction. Diagonal supports for third floor balcony are improperly secured into decayed siding/sheathing. See picture. This could result in collapse of balcony. The balcony should not be used.
Additional Comments:
A section of the first floor deck flooring is decayed and floor structure is sagging/ deflected. See picture. The deck framing in this area is inadequately constructed and supported. Furthermore, several structural members are not preservative treated and will decay. There is not an adequate space between floorboards to facilitate drainage and drying. The overall deck construction is non-professional, inadequate and UNSAFE. Consult a qualified contractor or a structural engineer for major repairs or total replacement.
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ADDITIONAL EXTERIOR OBSERVATIONS: Observations:
Due to the amount of decay and/or earth to wood contact discovered during the exterior inspection I recommend that you hire an exterminator to perform an inspection for wood boring insects.
SITE .
WALKS: Walk type(s):
Condition: Comments:
Concrete walk. Note: Sodium chloride (rock salt) should never be applied to concrete for de-icing as it will damage the surface. Calcium chloride may be used. FUNCTIONAL with EXCEPTIONS: Cracks and uneven settlement was observed in front walk. Repairs are advised.
DRIVEWAY: Type: Condition: Comments:
Asphalt driveway. FUNCTIONAL. Consider installing curbing or a guardrail at driveway retaining wall. See picture.
FENCES: Type: Conditions: Comments:
Wooden picket fencing. FUNCTIONAL with EXCEPTIONS: Decayed or damaged wood fencing. See picture. Replace all decayed components as necessary.
RETAINING WALLS: Type(s): Condition:
Stone. Concrete. FUNCTIONAL with EXCEPTIONS:
STOPFEL-15916 Comments:
Page 16 Loose, displaced or missing stones were observed in rear stone retaining wall. See picture. Retaining wall is bulging/tipped from lateral pressure.
GRADE & DRAINAGE: Condition:
Lot Topography:
FUNCTIONAL. Where accessible, lot grading appears to direct water away from the home at time of inspection. Be advised that as you maintain the landscaping, good drainage control objectives should be followed that create a positive grade for gravity dispersal of both surface water and roof run-off away from the home. Home is built into hillside.
ADDITIONAL SITE OBSERVATIONS: Observations:
Ask owner or local Fire Chief if there are or have ever been any underground fuel storage tanks on this or any neighboring property.
FYI: Be aware that most lumber used on exterior decks, porches, fences and playground equipment is "pressure treated". The chemical primarily used to treat exterior lumber is chromated copper arsenate (CCA). Though the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has specifically declined to describe CCA-treated lumber as a health hazard, saying that it has "not concluded that CCA-treated wood poses unreasonable risks to the public", arsenic is a known human carcinogen and chromium is an EPA-regulated toxin. Therefore, after a series of meetings between the EPA and the three U.S. manufacturers of CCA preservatives, the EPA has announced that arsenic based preservatives have been phased out as of December 31, 2003. The successors to CCA are a pair of alkaline copper compounds, copper azole and alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ). Both are said to provide a level of decay and insect protection comparable to that of the arsenic based preservatives. The most popular alternative is ACQ which has been available for several years and is used in Europe. Copper Azole is a newer product, but is equally effective. As always change comes at a cost. Expect to pay about 15% to 20% more for this alternative wood. Caution: Both ACQ and copper azole are very corrosive to metal bolts, nails, flashing, fasteners and connectors used to fasten the wood. To prevent deterioration, the manufacturers recommend using hot-dipped galvanized steel or more expensive stainless-steel. Anything less durable could quickly corrode, and the structure could collapse. If you have existing decks or outdoor landscaping built with pressure treated wood, removal or replacement is not necessary. I would recommend coating it with a penetrating oil based sealer. Not only will that trap any arsenic that may leach out, but it will also help extend the life of the wood and reduce splitting and checking. This is important as many decks have pressure treated flooring and railing caps, and splinters could cause personal injury and infections.
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ATTIC AREA, VENTILATION, INSULATION Scope of the attic, insulation & ventilation inspection: The inspector shall observe: insulation and vapor retarders in unfinished spaces or absence thereof, ventilation of attics and foundation areas, kitchen, bathroom & laundry venting systems, signs of leaks or abnormal condensation. Disclaimers: The following items are EXCLUDED from this report: A. Concealed insulation and vapor retarders. B. Venting equipment which is integral with household appliances. C. Inaccessible unfinished spaces. D. Spaces concealed by stored goods. General comments: A. FREE or inexpensive ENERGY AUDITS by local utility companies are recommended to further identify & estimate areas for energy saving options. B. YOU should re-inspect the attic space after the owner has removed all possessions as hidden problems may exist. C. New homes are now required to have a light in the attic. D. New homes are required to have a vapor barrier of 1.0 perm or less installed on the warm side of walls, ceilings and floors enclosing a conditioned space. E. Typical insulation requirements for residential applications include: Ceilings (R = 30) 9" fiberglass or equivalent, walls & basement (R = 12.5) 3 1/2" fiberglass or equivalent. F. Typical ventilation requirements for new residential applications include: Attics with a ceiling vapor barrier barrier shall have a screened opening of at least 1 SF of free vent area for each 300 SF of ceiling space. Attics without a ceiling vapor barrier shall have a screened opening of at least 1 SF for each 150 SF of ceiling area. G. Buyers should ask the owner about any prior roof leakage and should monitor the attic to determine if corrective action is needed. Be advised that active roof or flashing leaks can occur at anytime regardless of the age or condition of the roof coverings and flashings. Monitoring the attic area after heavy rain or snow conditions is advised.
ATTIC DATA: Type: Access:
Attic crawl space. Eaves. No access to overhead attic above the ceiling covering of the top floor. Conditions undetermined. Front eaves entered from knee wall hatches.
INSULATION: Type: Condition: Comments:
Batt type fiberglass. Where accessible, the insulation in unfinished spaces was FUNCTIONAL with the following EXCEPTIONS as noted below: Insulation or combustibles may be too close to recessed light fixtures (potential FIRE HAZARD). Keep insulation or combustibles a minimum of 3-inches away from fixtures and do not cover top of fixture. Be aware that some newer recessed lights are special type "IC" (insulation contact) fixtures. Supposedly, this type fixture can be completely covered with insulation without danger as a heat sensor will shut off light if overheating occurs. In my opinion I still would not cover these fixtures as they can generate enough heat to scorch or burn the paper vapor barrier used on most insulations. Another method to reduce overheating/fire danger is to replace hot incandescent bulbs with cool flourescent bulbs. Insulation in eaves appears to have been installed between roof rafters without providing clearance for ventilation. Roof shingles may overheat and be damaged and/or moisture may become trapped and rot the roof deck/frame.
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VENTILATION: Type: Condition: Comments:
Soffit vents. Roof vents. The attic ventilation system was inaccessible for evaluation. Further research is advised. The present amount of attic ventilation is inadequate as compared to modern construction. This will trap heat and condensation in the attic space, and could cause ice dam problems in winter. You would be wise to update the attic ventilation system now or at time of next scheduled roof replacement. The ventilation system should be balanced between exhaust vents at or near the ridge of the roof, and intake vents in the soffit or undereave. A shortcut to determine required attic ventilation is as follows: If a vapor retarder is in place, the attic square footage divided by 4 = amount of intake Net Free Area (NFA) in square inches needed. For example: 1200 sq ft divided by 4 = 300 sq in NFA intake and 300 sq in NFA exhaust. If a vapor retarder is missing, the attic square footage divided by 2 = amount of intake Net Free Area (sq in) and the amount of exhaust NFA (sq in) needed. For example: 1200 square feet divided by 2 = 600 sq in NFA intake and 600 sq in NFA exhaust. Consult an attic ventilation specialist to install an adequate and balanced ventilation system.
CHIMNEYS: Type: Condition:
Brick. Chimneys are not accessible.
STRUCTURE: Rafter type and size: Roof Deck Condition: Collar Ties Condition: Ridge Beam Condition:
No access to the roof frame. Size & condition of framing undetermined. NOT ACCESSIBLE FOR EVALUATION. Further research is advised. NOT ACCESSIBLE FOR EVALUATION. Further research is advised. NOT ACCESSIBLE FOR EVALUATION. Further research is advised.
SIGNS OF WATER PENETRATION AND VISIBLE PROBLEMS: Comments:
Old moisture stains were observed at tird floor roof window. The stains tested as dry at time of inspection. While the stains appeared old & tested as dry, and may have ocurred prior to the newer roof or repairs; you should question the owner regarding any known prior leakage. (This report is NOT a guarantee against future leakage.)
OVER-ALL CONDITION / RECOMMENDATIONS: Insulation / ventilation summary:
Attic ventilation is inadequate and needs updating.
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INTERIOR SPACES, FIREPLACE & WOOD STOVE Note: Please understand that the inspection of the living spaces is greatly restricted by the owner's furniture, window treatments, carpeting and stored goods. Be advised that hidden defects could exist that were inaccessible at time of inspection. For that reason, you should schedule a "pre-passing walk through inspection" to examine the home after the owner has moved. Scope of the interior spaces inspection: The inspector shall observe walls, floors, ceilings, stairways & railings, a representative sample of doors & windows, signs of water penetration or signs of abnormal or harmful condensation, and a representative sample of outlets & lights. Fireplace & solid fuel (wood or coal) burning stove(s) shall be examined for visual condition only. Please note that fireplaces and stoves are NOT OPERATED. Therefore their operational condition, adequacy and efficiency CANNOT BE DETERMINED. The owner should be asked specific questions as to the operational status (including adequacy of chimney draft) or any past or present problems with fireplace(s) or stove(s). The inspector is NOT required to move furniture or other obstructions to view interior spaces. Disclaimers: The following items are EXCLUDED from the interior inspection: A. Paint, wallpaper or other finish treatments on the interior walls, ceilings and floors. B. Carpeting. C. Draperies, blinds, or other window treatments. D. Portable appliances. E. Recreational facilities. F. Alarm, security, intercom and stereo systems. G. Fire sprinkler or alarm systems. H. Inaccessible fireplace or chimney flue spaces. I. Vacuum systems. J. Elevators or dumb waiters. K. Indoor air quality and air flow. L. Soundproofing in building between exterior/interior walls, levels, rooms or units. General comments: A. If major defects are revealed by your pre-passing walk through, you should telephone my office for further advice or schedule an optional "return visit inspection" for additional professional evaluation. B. Fireplace & wood stove flues should be inspected & cleaned annually by a member of the chimney sweep guild. C. You should ask the owner to provide you with a copy of the wood or coal stove "certification of compliance", documenting that the appliance and the installation meet all fire code, safety and UL requirements. This documetation is needed for your homeowner's insurance file. D. The owner of the property is required to have the fire department examine and evaluate smoke detectors and fire alarm systems prior to purchase and provide you with documentation at time of closing. E. Small cracks & nail pops in walls and ceilings are usually minor cosmetic defects caused in part by the expansion & contraction of the wood frame beneath the drywall or plaster wall covering and by wood frame vibration. Unless the wall or ceiling coverings are in danger of falling, the repairs are of no structural significance and should require maintenance patching, caulking, priming and painting. Safety Glazing: To the best of my ability I inspected all applicable glass for tempered safety glazing. Be aware that it is sometimes difficult to determine if glass is tempered due to obstructions, lack of access or inability to locate or read labels. Therefore, I suggest that you consult a glass professional for further inspection and to answer any questions about safety glazing that you may have. FYI: The present requirements for safety glazing are as follows: All doors (including exterior, interior and storms). Fixed side panels within 24" to either side of a door. Glass less than 18" above floor. Individual panels that are greater than 9 sq. ft.
Ceiling Materials: Condition
Drywall. Plaster. Functional with EXCEPTIONS:
STOPFEL-15916 Comments
Page 20 Water stains/damage were observed at third floor roof window. See picture. Ceiling water stains tested (with a moisture meter) as dry at time of inspection. Old plaster on laths is cracked, patched and sagging(plaster is pulling away from laths). Repair/replacement is needed.
Walls Surface Condition Comments
Drywall. Plaster. Beaded board. Functional with EXCEPTIONS: Water stains/damage were observed on rear walls on first and second levels. See picture. Water stains tested (with a moisture meter) as moist at time of inspection. This is probably related to the leaking and decayed rear siding/ sheathing/framing. Further investigation and repairs are advised. Cracks are visible on walls. Note: As plaster/ drywall does not expand & contract, any movement in the house framing will result in cracks in the plaster. Cosmetic repairs should include mud & tape or reinforced joint repair followed by priming & painting. Consult a plasterer or drywall contractor for repair estimates.
Flooring Type Condition Comments
Tile. Hardwood. Softwood. Wall to wall carpeting. Prefinished wood veneer flooring. Functional with EXCEPTIONS: Worn wood flooring was noted. Consider hiring a specialist to sand & refinish the floors. Floors are uneven, sloped, sagging, deflected or springy/spongy/bouncy. It is impossible to determine the exact cause during a limited visual inspection. A certain amount of sloping or deflection of floors is normal and to be expected in older buildings. However, I am not qualified nor is it a part of this inspection to determine what is "normal" or "abnormal" regarding floor slope or deflection. Further investigation by a qualified contractor or a structural engineer is needed to determine the cause(s) and to suggest necessary repairs.
Closets Condition: Comments:
FUNCTIONAL with the following EXCEPTIONS: Insufficient closets by todays standards.
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Exterior Doors Condition
Functional.
Storm Doors Condition
Functional.
Interior Doors Condition Comments
Functional with EXCEPTIONS: Refitting/adjustment of doors is required in some areas as several doors were difficult to open/close/latch. Several doors rub on carpets. Undercut doors.
Stairs/stairways Condition Comments.
Functional with exceptions: The third floor stair handrail is too close to wall. There should be a clear space between the handrail and wall of 1-1/2". Handrails are not "graspable". Handrails should be easily "graspable" and should have a circular cross section with an outside diameter of at least 1-1/4", but not greater than 2". However, any other shape with a perimeter dimension of at least 4", but not greater than 6-1/4" with the largest cross sectional dimension not to exceed 2-5/8" is allowed. Low headroom in stairway. The current requirement for minimum headroom in all parts of a stairway is 6'-6" measured vertically from the sloped plane adjoining the tread nosing or from the floor surface of the landing or platform. Stair railing is too low; minimum height above tread nosing should be 30".
Windows Type Condition Comments:
Double Hung. Roof window. Double glazed. Functional with EXCEPTIONS: Seals on double glazed thermal pane windows in right front and left rear second floor bedrooms appear to be broken as evidenced by cloudiness/condensation between panes. Remedy is to replace windows.
Storm Windows Type
None on third floor.
Condition
Triple track aluminum combination windows (mounted on first and second floor only). Functional.
Receptacles Type Condition Comments
The home has a mixture of modern U-type receptacles and areas of older 2-slot outlets. Functional with EXCEPTIONS: Older 2-slot outlets are present and are typical for a home of this age. (Be advised that such older outlets do not provide modern grounding protection. Consider updating the outlets.) Missing receptacle cover plate was noted. This is a potential SHOCK HAZARD--UNSAFE.
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Page 22 The older home has few outlets in the living spaces. While the number of outlets may be typical and standard for the age of the home, new homes must have an outlet every six feet to prevent the use of dangerous extension cords. Optional updating of the number of outlets is advised. Consult an electrician. UNSAFE ungrounded outlet was noted in right front first floor bedroom. Safety repairs are needed. FYI: As of January 1, 2002 the National Electrical Code requires the installation of Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCI) in bedroom circuits of all homes constructed after that date. AFCIs are newly developed electrical devices designed to protect against fires caused by arcing faults in the home electrical wiring. Annually over 40,000 fires are attributed to home electrical wiring. These fires result in over 400 deaths and over 1400 injuries each year. Arcing faults are one of the major causes of these fires. Regular circuit breakers are reasonably effective in preventing against arcing faults to a certain degree, but the current flow of a high impedance arc is often too low to cause operation of the protection device. When unwanted arcing occurs, it generates high temperatures that can ignite nearby combustibles such as wood, paper, bedclothes, curtains/drapes and carpets. The AFCI circuit continuously monitors current flow through the AFCI. AFCIs use unique current sensing circuitry to discriminate between normal and unwanted arcing conditions. Once an unwanted arcing condition is detected, the control circuitry in the AFCI trips the contacts, thus de-energizing the circuit and reducing the potential for a fire to occur. An AFCI should not trip during normal arcing conditions, which can occur when a switch is opened or a plug is pulled from a receptacle. A test button (usually green in color) is located on the front of the device. If the device does not trip when tested, the AFCI is defective and should be replaced. The installation of AFCIs should also be considered in older house wiring, or where damaged or deteriorated wires exist and immediate rewiring is impractical. Be aware that homes over 40 years old are three times more likely to suffer electrical fires than are newer homes. Some causes of damaged and deteriorated wiring include puncturing of wire insulation from picture hanging or cable staples, poorly installed outlets or switches, cords caught in doors or under furniture, furniture pushed against plugs in an outlet, natural aging, and cord exposure to heat and sunlight.
Lighting Type(s) Condition Comments:
Incandescent. Functional with EXCEPTIONS: Pull chain fixtures were observed. Older pull chain fixtures should be upgraded with new fixtures controlled by wall switches. Push button switches present. Old mechanical push button wall switches may be an indicator of old knob and tube wiring in walls. In my opinion knob and tube wiring is a potential FIRE HAZARD and should be removed. Further investigation is advised. There are ceiling paddle fans present. I suggest that the mounting of ceiling paddle fans be checked to ensure a safe and secure attachment to ceiling box. Ceiling fan height above floor is too low at 6-feet, 6-inches. Minimum height above floor should be 7-feet.
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Heating/Cooling Type(s) Condition Comments:
Finned tube hydronic baseboard. Electric baseboard. Functional. CAUTION! Electric heat operates at extremely high temperatures. To avoid fires keep electric cords, drapes, furnishings or any combustibles a safe distance away from heaters.
Fireplace Type:
Wood burning brick fireplaces with no flue liners for modern fire safety. I advise further evaluation of the unlined flues by a chimney contractor to determine the feasibility and cost of lining the flues.
Condition Comments
Functional with EXCEPTIONS: The home has older chimneys that pre-date present construction requirements by NOT having a modern clay tile liner for fire safety and for resistance against the corrosive or acidic by-products of combustion. For modern fire safety, I recommend that you hire a chimney specialty company to retrofit the chimneys with liners. The face of several of the fireplaces are smoke stained above the lintels. This is an indication of a draft problem where the smoke is curling out into the room instead of properly traveling up the chimney flue. Consult a mason or a chimney sweep. The size of the fireplace hearth extensions appear small in size and may not be appropriate for the size of the fireplace openings. For openings of less than 6 sq. ft., the hearth should extend not less than 16" in front and 8" on each side of the opening. For openings of 6 sq. ft. or greater, the hearth should extend not less than 20" in front and 12" on each side of the opening. Mantle/trim is too close to fireboxes. Move so that it is at least 6-inches away from openings. If trim above openings exceeds 1.5-inches thick, it must be 12inches away. Bricks and mortar on the walls of several of the fireboxes are cracked, loose or deteriorated. See picture. Hire a mason to perform repairs prior to use.
Additional Comments Notes:
As of March 31, 2006 all buildings with fossil-fuel burning equipment or enclosed parking areas must install approved carbon monoxide (CO) alarms in accordance with 527 CMR 31.00. (NOTE: Where hard-wired systems are required the deadline is January 1, 2007). The new regulations require CO detectors on every level of the home and within ten feet of each sleeping area and in habitable portions of basements and attics. The CO detectors may be: • • •
Battery operated with battery monitoring. Plug-ins with battery back-up. Hard-wired with battery backup.
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Low voltage system. Wireless. Qualified combination (smoke/carbon monoxide alarm).
Acceptable combination smoke detectors and carbon monoxide alarms must have simulated voice and tone alarms that clearly distinguish between the two types of emergencies. The State Building Code mandates that only photoelectric combination alarms are permitted within twenty feet of a bathroom or kitchen. The head of the Fire Department or designee shall enforce the provisions of 527 CMR 31.00 upon sale or transfer of residential dwellings. Pertaining to rental property, landlords must inspect, maintain and replace, if necessary, required CO alarms annually and at the beginning of any rental period. Tenants should report any problems with detectors to the landlord immediately and learn to recognize the difference between the smoke alarm and the carbon monoxide detector. For further information visit the Massachusetts Department of Fire Services web site: www.mass.gov/dfs/index.shtm FYI: A tremendous resource for you, the homeowner, is the U. S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). They are an independent federal regulatory agency working to save lives and keep families safe by reducing the risk of injuries and deaths associated with consumer products. The CPSC has jurisdiction of over 15,000 kinds of consumer products used in the home, in sports, recreation and schools. Their web site (www.cspc.gov) has a wealth of information including recalls of all unsafe and/or defective products. You can also join their "e-mail subscription list" which will give you product recall notices automatically the same day they are issued. By studying this information you can determine if there are any unsafe, defective or recalled products in your home, as it is impossible for me to catalogue and apply this information to every home that I inspect.
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BATHROOMS Scope of the bathroom inspection: The inspector shall observe: Plumbing fixtures, means of ventilation, functional water pressure & drainage, lights & outlets & cabinets. Disclaimers: A. The condition of hidden supply, drain, waste and vent piping hidden within wall cavities is undetermined as they are inaccessible for visual inspection. B. If the water service or service to any fixture was shut-down at time of inspection, the true function of that fixture is undetermined and EXCLUDED from this report. C. Not inspected and EXCLUDED from this report are the condition and operation of hot tubs, spa systems, saunas and steam units. D. Also not inspected and EXCLUDED from this report is the existence of safety glazing in shower/tub enclosures and in applicable windows and doors. General comments: A. A bathroom is required to have either a functional window or exterior vented exhaust fan as a means of ventilation. Fans must be vented outside and NOT into the attic. Be advised that improper bathroom ventilation is often a cause of moisture deficiencies in the home. B. "Bathroom facilities must include a toilet with a toilet seat and a bathtub or shower. These must be situated in a room which allows a person privacy, which is fitted with a door capable of being closed and which is not used for the purpose of living, eating, sleeping or cooking. In addition a washbasin other than the kitchen sink must be located either in the room containing the toilet or near the entrance to that room." Safety Glazing: To the best of my ability I inspected all applicable glass for tempered safety glazing. Be aware that it is sometimes difficult to determine if glass is tempered due to obstructions, lack of access or inability to locate or read labels. Therefore, I suggest that you consult a glass professional for further inspection and to answer any questions about safety glazing that you may have. FYI: The present requirements for safety glazing are as follows: All doors (including exterior, interior and storms). Fixed side panels within 24" to either side of a door. Glass less than 18" above floor. Individual panes that are greater than 9 sq.ft. Bathroom windows located above or near tubs, showers or whirlpools.
Ceiling Surface Condition
Drywall. Functional.
Walls Surface: Condition
Drywall. Functional.
Flooring Type Condition
Tile. Functional.
Doors Condition
Functional.
Windows Type
Double Hung. Roof window. Double glazed. Awning. Single glazed.
Condition
No window in second floor bath. Functional with EXCEPTIONS:
STOPFEL-15916 Comments
Page 26 Awning window is difficult to open/close. Lubrication or adjustment is needed.
Storm Windows Type
None
Receptacles Type Condition
Ground fault protected (GFI) outlets. Functional.
Lighting Type(s) Condition
Incandescent Functional.
Heating Type(s): Condition
Finned tube hydronic baseboard. Air register. Functional.
Exhaust Fan Condition
Functional.
Plumbing Plumbing fixtures
.
Sink/Vanity Condition Comments:
Functional with EXCEPTIONS: Mechanical drain stop is inoperable in second floor bath. First and second floor sink installations have S-shaped drain traps indicating non-vented fixtures. If any remodeling takes place, it will be necessary to update the waste piping to a modern P-shaped trap and properly vent the connection. Be advised that S-shaped traps are no longer allowed as the water seal in the trap may be siphoned off during drainage, allowing sewer gas to enter house.
Toilet Condition
Functional.
Tub/Shower Type Condition
Shower stalls. Bathtub with shower. Functional.
Tub and Shower Walls/Pans NOTE:
Condition.
Tub and shower walls/pans are visually checked for leakage, but leaks often do not show except when the shower is actually in use. Determining whether tub and shower walls/pans are water tight is beyond the scope of this inspection. It is very important to maintain all grouting and caulking in bath areas. Very minor voids, cracks or imperfections can allow water to enter into wall or floor areas and cause damage, therefore proper ongoing maintenance is required. Functional.
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Water Volume Condition Volume:
Functional. Water volume is good.
Drainage Condition
Functional.
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KITCHEN & APPLIANCES ______________________________________________________________________________ Scope of the kitchen and appliance inspection:The inspector shall observe: counters, a representative sample of cabinets, brief operation of fixed or attached appliances, lights and outlets, walls, floor and ceiling. No appliance warranty is expressed or implied. Disclaimers:The following items are EXCLUDED from this report: A. Portable appliances, including refrigerators and microwaves. B. Appliance timers and thermostats. Oven self and continuous cleaning operation. C. Clothes washer and dryer operation. D. Areas concealed by cabinet storage. E. Water filtration devices. F. Instant hot water dispensers. G. Central vacuum systems. H. The functional evaluation of fixtures or appliances that were "shut-down" is undetermined and EXCLUDED from this report. I. No opinion is offered as to the adequacy of dishwasher operation. Portable dishwashers are not tested as they require connection to facilitate testing. J. Appliances are not moved during the inspection. General comments:A. Kitchen appliances are subject to unpredictable life expectancy and may require repair or replacement although functional at the time of inspection. B. Appliances cannot be run through "full cycles" and timers and thermostats cannot be evaluated during a limited visual home inspection. C. You should question the owner regarding the age and maintenance of each appliance. Average appliance lifespans: refrigerator 15-20 years, stove/range 10-15 years and dishwasher & garbage disposer 5-10 years.D. New homes must now have ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) electrical shock protection above allcounters. Updating of outlets is advised if GFI protection is not present. E. Be advised that while functional, the plumbing to older kitchen fixtures or appliances may not conform to modern requirements. During kitchen remodeling, a plumber may be needed to update the fixture supply lines, shut-off valves and DWV piping. F. If any fixtures or appliances were shut down or not operational at time of inspection, further research is required. ______________________________________________________________________________ Safety Glazing: To the best of my ability I inspected all applicable glass for tempered safety glazing. Be aware that it is sometimes difficult to determine if glass is tempered due to obstructions, lack of access or inability to locate and read labels. Therefore, I suggest that you consult a glass professional for further inspection and to answer any questions about safety glazing that you may have. FYI: The present requirements for safety glazing are as follows: All doors (including exterior, interior and storms). Fixed side panels within 24" to either side of a door. Glass less than 18" above floor. Individual panes greater than 9 sq.ft.
Ceiling Surface: Condition:
Drywall. Hardboard. Functional.
Walls Surface: Condition:
Drywall. Beaded board. Hardboard. Functional.
Flooring Type: Condition:
Tile flooring. Prefinished wood veneer flooring. Functional.
Lighting Type(s): Condition
Flourescent Functional.
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Exterior Doors Condition:
Functional.
Storm Doors Condition: Comments:
Functional with EXCEPTIONS: Old, ill-fitting storm door needs adjustment.
Windows Type(s): Condition: Comments:
Double Hung. Single glazed. Functional with EXCEPTIONS: Cracked, deteriorated or missing glazing compound (putty) on exterior of windows needs replacement and repainting.
Storm Windows Type: Condition:
Triple track aluminum combination windows (mounted on single glazed double hung windows only). Functional.
Receptacles Type: Condition: Comments:
Three-prong grounded outlets with no GFI protection. Functional with EXCEPTIONS: Ground fault interrupt (GFI) type outlets should be installed at all countertops for electrical safety (required on new construction within 6-feet of sink since about 1990 and above all countertops since 1997). The older kitchen has an insufficient number of outlets by modern standards. You would be wise to hire an electrician to update the kitchen circuitry.
Heating Type: Condition:
Finned tube hydronic baseboard. Air register. Functional.
Cabinets Condition: Comments:
Functional with EXCEPTIONS: The cabinets are worn and nearing end of lifespan. Consider updating.
Counters Condition:
Functional.
Plumbing .
Sink Condition: Comments:
Functional. The sink installation has an S-shaped drainline trap indicating a non-vented fixture. If any remodeling takes place, it will be necessary to update the waste piping by installing a modern P-shaped trap and re-vent connection. (Be advised that S- shaped traps are no longer allowed as the trap water seal may be siphoned off during drainage, allowing sewer gas to enter the home. Such old traps may also produce gurgling sounds when in use.)
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Water Volume Condition: Volume:
Functional. Water volume is good.
Drainage Condition:
Functional.
Built-In Appliances .
Range/Oven Type: Operable: Condition: Comments:
Electric. Propane. Yes. No. Functional. Not Functional as NOTED: The propane gas was shut-off. I could NOT evaluate the function of the appliance. Conditions are undetermined. To avoid leaks and damage to soft copper tubing (currently used in this house for propane piping to stove/range), I suggest that all propane supply lines be hard piped with black iron pipe (the same as used for natural gas piping) or flexible stainless steel.
Range Hood Operable: Condition:
Yes Functional.
Exhaust Fan Operable:
There was no exhaust fan.
Dishwasher Operable:
There was no dishwasher.
Disposal Operable:
There was no disposal.
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BASEMENT AND STRUCTURE Scope of the structural inspection: The inspector shall observe the following structural components: foundation, floors, walls, columns and ceilings. Disclaimers: A. This report does NOT GUARANTEE A DRY BASEMENT. B. The inspector is not required to enter underfloor crawl spaces or attics when entry could damage the property, or when dangerous or adverse conditions are suspected. Be advised that areas not entered may contain hidden defects. C. Structural components or mechanical systems concealed by finished basement spaces or stored goods are inaccessible for visual inspection and are therefore EXCLUDED from this report. Be advised that hidden problems may exist. D. This report is NOT a STRUCTURAL ENGINEERING REPORT. E. This report is NOT A TERMITE OR WOOD BORING INFESTATION REPORT. No inspection is made by this company to detect past or present insect or rodent activity. General comments: A. A dry basement cannot be guaranteed because a basement is a hole in the ground that is vulnerable to infiltration when exposed to changes in seasonal hydrostatic ground water pressure and fluctuations in the water table. Be advised that evidence of prior dampness is often concealed by the owner's stored goods, painted surfaces or finished areas below grade level. You should ask the owner about honest disclosure of any prior wet basement problems prior to purchase. Most basement dampness can be reduced by directing all surface water and roof run-off away from the foundation. B. Inspection of the home by a QUALIFIED licensed pest control company is advised prior to purchase irregardless of the inspector's findings. C. You should request in writing that the basement be emptied and broom swept clean prior to purchase. You should return to re-inspect for concealed defects. D. Owners are required to maintain structural elements in good repair.
Basement: Type Access
Full unfinished basement. Full basement is accessible.
Walls: Type(s) Condition: Comments:
Stone. Brick. Functional with EXCEPTIONS: There are a few voids in the foundation joints which allows air and water infiltration, insect and rodent entry. Seal all voids. Spalled or deteriorated bricks were observed. A mason contractor should review foundation to determine needed repairs or replacement.
Floor: Type(s) Condition: Comments:
Concrete floor. Functional with EXCEPTIONS: Cracks in concrete floor were observed.
Stairs: Condition: Comments:
Functional with EXCEPTIONS: Inadequate handrail on basement stairs is UNSAFE. Continuous handrails meeting present standards are needed. There is a handrail provided on only one side of basement stairway. There should be handrails provided on both sides to help prevent slips, trips and falls.
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STRUCTURE: .
Sills: Condition: Comments:
Functional with EXCEPTIONS: Minor decay and insect damage observed in left front sills. See picture.
Rear sill tested as wet with a moisture meter. See picture. I believe this moisture is from rear wall cavity.
Joists: Condition: Comments:
Functional with EXCEPTIONS: Decay and insect damage (appears to be powder post beetles) observed in several joists. See picture. Consult a pest inspector to positively identify insects, determine if they are active and if treatrment is needed. Consult a contractor for any needed bracing or replacement.
Mortise and tenon joints or half lap joints between joists and girder or sill have separated, thus weakening the joint. Consult a contractor to brace or reinforce joints as needed. The wood joists are connected to the girder or sill by mortise and tenon joints or half laps. The strength of the joists are not the total depth of the joist but rather the depth of the tongue of the joists. Thus many of the joists are cracked horizontally beginning from the bottom of the tenon. These joists should be reinforced by "sister" bracing; by replacement; or by using steel joist hangers at each end of the existing joists. Consult a qualified contractor or a structural engineer.
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Girders: Condition: Comments:
Functional with EXCEPTIONS: Decay and insect damage observed in girders, especially in right rear termination at foundation wall. A qualified contractor or a structural engineer should be hired for further investigation to determine repair, replacement or bracing of girder(s) and to provide a cost estimate. A pest inspector should be hired to inspect the house for active wood boring insects.
Columns: Type(s) Condition: Comments:
Wood columns. Stone columns. Functional with EXCEPTIONS: Old, decayed and inadequate wood columns should be replaced with masonry columns or concrete filled steel lally columns on proper footings.
Subfloor: Condition: Comments:
Functional with EXCEPTIONS: Decay and insect damage observed in subfloor, especially in right rear. See picture. A qualified contractor or a structural engineer should be hired for further investigation to determine if repair or replacement of subfloor is needed, and to provide a cost estimate. A pest inspector should be hired to inspect the house for wood boring insects.
Insulation: Comments:
No insulation provided. Though present energy requirements are that all basement/crawl space ceilings must be insulated, I feel that this is unnecessary if the basement is fairly warm. However, it is worthwhile to insulate the perimeter band joist and sill area since this is an exterior wall and experiences a large heat loss.
Chimney Base: Type: Condition: Comments:
Additional Comments
Brick. Stone. Functional with EXCEPTIONS: Be aware that basement fireplace opening has been sealed with bricks, but both oil burners are presently venting into the fireplace. Consult a chimney sweep for a more direct vent into the chimney flue. Permanently seal old, unused thimbles with bricks and mortar. See picture.
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Exterior Door: Condition:
Functional.
Basement Comments: Comments:
Water stains/efflorescence observed on walls/floor. This is an indication of moisture penetration through the foundation. Be aware that ALL below grade structures are susceptible to water infiltration, especially in this region. Consult with the owner prior to purchase to determine the extent of past seepage. Though your basement may not have a chronic water seepage problem, most basements in this part of the country are damp in the warm summer months (the relative humidity within the basement is too high). This may cause harmful mold/mildew problems and a telltale "musty" odor. I recommend that you install a properly sized dehumidifier in the basement and operate during the non heating season or as needed.
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PLUMBING & HOT WATER Scope of the plumbing inspection: The inspector shall observe: interior water supply and distribution system including piping materials, supports, insulation, fixtures and faucets, functional flow, leaks, and cross connections. The inspector shall also observe interior drain, waste and vent system, including: traps, drain, waste, and vent piping, piping supports and pipe insulation, leaks and functional drainage. Hot water systems including: water heating equipment, normal operating controls, automatic safety controls, chimneys flues and vents. Fuel storage and distribution systems including: interior fuel storage equipment, supply piping, venting and supports. Sump pump. Disclaimers: The following items are EXCLUDED from this report: the effectiveness of anti-siphon devices, determination of public versus private water supply and waste disposal systems, operation of automatic safety controls, operation of any valve except water closet flush valves, fixture faucets, and hose faucets. Also excluded are water conditioning systems, fire and sprinkler systems, on-site water supply quantity and quality, onsite waste disposal systems (septic tanks, cesspools and leach fields), foundation irrigation systems and solar systems. General comments: A. Area public & private water supplies tend to have a high mineral content that is slightly corrosive to copper pipes, fittings, valves, boilers and hot water heaters. There is always a possibility of future leaks or blockages that did not exist at the time of inspection. You should inspect your plumbing system annually for greenish or whitish signs of corrosion and perform maintenance repairs as required. Expect future repair or replacement of faucet & toilet components through normal wear & tear. B. If your prospective older home has a remaining old steel service pipe, the future replacement will be your financial responsibiltity. The lifespan of old water service pipes is unpredictable but weak water pressure may be a tell-tale sign of needed age replacement. I advise that lead service pipes should be retired for health reasons, and that the water be tested for lead content. C. Be advised that the main shut-off valve was not tested during the inspection as they often can develop maintenance leaks or upset the owner. You should test the valve if you buy the home. D. Be advised that well pumps have an average life expectancy of 10-12 years. E. Be advised that new homes now have 3/4" dia. water lines across the basement and 1/2" dia. piping leading to each fixture. Older 1/2" piping systems of brass or steel water piping are candidates for age replacement. E. Older homes may not have local shut-off valves, Pshaped traps and re-vent connections. While appropriate for an older home, such old plumbing will have to undergo major updating during any kitchen or bathroom remodeling. F. Be advised that hot water heaters have a short 5-10 year lifespan, budget for eventual age replacement. Set water temperature control no higher than 130 degrees F. to prevent scalding. G. Private waste disposal systems should be pumped out for general maintenance at least every two to three years to protect the leaching field. H. If your prospective new home has a "tankless coil" at the boiler for domestic hot water production, updating the system by installing a modern "companion tank" is highly recommended to insure adequate hot water.
Water Supply/Distribution Type
Municipal water service connection to street main (as attested by owner/realtor). Note: You should locate the "curb cock" shutoff which is usually located in sidewalk, edge of street or edge of your land. In case of emergency the local water utility would shut this valve off to stop water supply to your home.
Inlet Service Pipe Type Diameter (approx.).
Galvanized. This is an old service which could fail (leak) at any time. Anticipate updating to a copper or plastic service pipe in the future. 1-inch.
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Main Shut Off Valve Condition
Valve Type: Shut-off Location:
Comments:
Inoperable. Unable to shut off valve using minimal force. Consult a plumber for repair/replacement. CAUTION! Do not use extreme force on valve as the valve/associated piping could break resulting in a flooding condition. Ball valve. The main shut-off water valve is located on front wall in basement.
Old RED HED brand valve is inoperable. A plumber should repair or replace.
Accessible Supply Piping Type
Copper.
Water Volume at Fixtures Condition
Good water volume at time of inspection. Water volume is tested by operating three (3) fixtures simultaneously (typically a sink, toilet and tub/shower ) and visually evaluating the flow.
Water Supply/Distribution Comments: Comments
No visible problems observed in accessible components of distribution system.
Exterior hose connection(s): Hose Connection/ Sill Cock:
Yes, there are hose connection(s)/sill cock(s) provided, but they are inoperable. Ask owner or investigate further.
Washer/Dryer Connections: Washer supply hose type: Dryer vent type: Comments:
Yes, there is a washer/dryer hookup provided. Rubber water supply hoses to washer unit. Flexible vinyl dryer vent tubing observed. To avoid leaks in washing machine water supply hoses, I suggest that braided steel hoses be used instead of rubber hoses. You also might consider having your plumber install an electrically operated valve that automatically shuts off water supply to hoses/machine when washer is shut down. Dryers vent their exhaust, including some lint, through a duct to the exterior. Four types of ducts have been available in the past, but two of those types are no longer approved and may be dangerous. FLEXIBLE PLASTIC and FLEXIBLE FOIL ducts are ribbed and may sag over time, leading to a buildup of lint in the duct. That lint could catch fire. FLEXIBLE METAL or RIGID METAL ducts should be used. When using a metal exhaust duct all joints should be fastened with tape rather than with screws as the protruding screws will catch lint and could cause blockages and fires. Dryer vents should be frequently checked and cleaned. Also, if dryer vent duct passes through an unheated space the duct should be insulated to reduce condensation.
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Drain-Waste-Vent System .
.
Sewage Disposal Type
Municipal (as attested by owner/realtor). NOTE: You should verify with municipal sewer authority that the property you are buying is in fact connected to the municipal sewer. Also request a plan of the sewer connection for future reference.
Drain Pipes Type Sewage Ejector Pump
Cast iron. Copper. PVC (polyvinyl chloride). None observed.
Drain-Waste-Vent System Comments Comments
No visible problems observed in accessible components of sewerage system.
Domestic Hot Water .
Water Heater Type:
Freestanding, electric water heaters (10-20 year typical lifespan).
Fuel: Rental Nameplate Observed:
Electric.
Estimated Age: Capacity: Recovery: Adequacy: Water Temperature:
Yes. You should verify the rental of the tanks and have the rental agreement transferred to your name. First floor 11 years. Second floor 23 years. 80 gallons capacity each. 18 gallons per hour (approximately). Adequate (depending on the occupants lifestyle). 116.0 degrees fahrenheit was the water temperature measured at the unit 1 kitchen sink. 107.5 degrees fahrenheit was the water temperature measured at the unit 2 kitchen sink Be aware that any thermostat setting of the water heater thermostat which is above the mark that approximates 120 degrees F. (48.9 degrees C.) may cause accidental scalding, severe burns or other injuries, particularly to children, elderly persons, or the infirm, and consume excessive energy unnecessarily. At 140 degrees water can produce third degree burns in 6 seconds, and at 130 degrees in 30 seconds. If the temperature is greater than 120 degrees the temperature control on the water heater should be turned down TO AVOID INJURY FROM SCALDING WATER.
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ELECTRICAL Scope of the electrical inspection: The inspector shall observe the following: service entrance conductors, service equipment, grounding equipment, main overcurrent device, main and distribution panels, amperage and voltage ratings of the service, branch circuit conductors, their overcurrent devices, and the compatibility of their ampacities and voltages, the operation of a representative number of installed lighting fixtures, switches and receptacles located in the house, garage, and on its exterior walls, the polarity and grounding of all receptacles within six feet of interior plumbing fixtures, and the operation of ground-fault-circuit-interrupters. Disclaimers: The following items are expressly EXCLUDED from this report: emergency power/generator systems, low voltage systems, smoke detectors, telephone systems, security systems, cable TV systems, intercoms or other ancillary wiring that is not part of the primary electrical distribution system. General comments: Please take this evaluation of your homes electrical system very seriously. More than 40,000 fires are caused each year by problems with home electrical systems. They kill over 400 people and cost $2.2 billion annually. Another 300 people will die annually of other injuries caused by electricity, such as electrocution. Homes over 40 years old are over three times more likely to suffer electrical fires than are newer homes. A. Any electrical repairs attempted by the home owner should be approached with caution as personal injury or fire could result. The power to the entire home should be turned off prior to beginning any repairs, no matter how trivial the repair may seem. B. The MAIN DISCONNECT and individual circuit breakers or fuses were NOT opened or tested during the inspection for to do so would disrupt energized parts of the home and upset the owner. Upon occupancy and twice a year, you should trip the main breaker and circuit breakers as preventative maintenance. C. Be advised that a 100 amp electrical service is now considered the modern minimum for all single family homes. I recommend that all 60 amp services be retired unless gas major appliances are utilized. D. While older 2-slot outlets may be typical for an older home, updating to modern U-type recepticles is recommended for grounding safety. E. Be advised that modern homes now have outlets within 6 feet reach to prevent the use of extension cords. F. Be advised that ground-faultcircuit-interrupters (GFCIs) are now required at all water hazard areas such as outside outlets, swimming pools, garage, basement, bathrooms and at all kitchen counters. Updating is advised if such devices are not present. G. Be advised that arc-fault-circuit- interrupters (AFCI) are now required on bedroom circuits in all new construction (since Jan. 1, 2002).
Electrical Observed: Type:
Energized. Overhead service drop.
Service Entrance Service Entrance (SE) Cable Type: Meter Location:
Cable Capacity:
Aluminum The meters are mounted on the exterior of house.
200 Amps, 110/220 Volts
STOPFEL-15916 Service Capacity: Service Entrance Comments:
Additional Comments:
Page 39 Adequate The service entrance cable, drip loops or open conductors are too close to window opening. See picture. This is an UNSAFE SHOCK HAZARD. Present requirements are a minimum of 3-foot clearance to building openings, except above a window.
The dux-seal on the service cable above meter is cracked, split or deteriorated. See picture. Water may enter the service equipment causing DAMAGING CORROSION, FIRE or SHOCK HAZARDS. Hire an electrician to reseal joints. This is a simple, inexpensive, but VERY IMPORTANT MAINTENANCE TASK.
Service Panel Location of Service Panel:
Basement.
Main Service Disconnect Capacity:
2-100 Amps, 110/220 Volts.
Service Disconnect Location:
The main circuit breaker disconnects are located at the top of the circuit breaker panels. (Note: The main service switch was NOT tested during the home inspection so as not to disturb the owner's timers, appliances, computers and lifestyle. You should test the main disconnect when you move into the home.)
STOPFEL-15916 Service Grounding Cable Connected to:
Service Capacity: Overload Protection: Circuits Properly Labeled: Main Service Panel Comments:
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Water Service Pipe. The older service ground is missing a jumper cable to by-pass the water meter. While the ground connection appears functional for the age of the home and no repairs are required; nevertheless, I recommend that you have a jumper cable installed by an electrician to conform with modern safety requirements. 2-100 Amps, 110/220 Volts. Circuit breakers. Partial labeling present (Present electrical standards require all circuits to be properly labeled). More than one wire is connected to a fuse or breaker. This is called a double tap. See picture. There are no signs of overheating at this time. Most over current devices (fuses or circuit breakers) are only designed to accept one circuit wire. With double taps the fuse or breaker is more likely to blow or trip, "nuisance" tripping may occur and/or a poor connection at tap could result in overheating if more than one circuit wire is attached. I recommend that another fuse or breaker be added as needed to eliminate all double taps. (Note: A sub-panel may be needed if the present panel has no room for additional fuses or breakers.)
Sub-Panel Location:
Sub panel is located on third floor.
Sub-Panel Capacity
50 Amps, 110/220 Volts.
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Circuits Number of Branch Circuits: 120 Volt Branch Circuit Wiring: 220 Volt Appliance Circuit Wiring: Type of Wire Observed:
34 total branch circuits including the sub-panel. Copper
Copper. Nonmetallic Sheathed Cable. BX (armored) cable wiring is present in the home. While this older type of wiring is acceptable, you may be wise to update to modern romex wire for better grounding protection.
Branch Circuit Comments:
The present electrical service panel has no physical room for new fuses or circuit breakers. To add new circuits, an electrician will be needed to install a larger service panel or sub-panel to provide space for new circuits. Corrosion observed on armored cable (BX) wiring in basement/crawl space. This is UNSAFE as the armor serves as the ground path. I suggest that all corroded BX cable be upgraded to modern "Romex" type wiring.
Additional Comments:
Missing cover was observed on junction box in basement. See picture. This is a potential SHOCK and FIRE HAZARD -all junction boxes should be properly covered.
Exterior Lights, Receptacles and Door Bells Exterior Lighting: Exterior Receptacles:
All exterior lights are operable. GFI (Ground Fault Interrupter) type outlets in right front and on first level deck tested OK at time of inspection. Ground fault interrupt (GFI) type outlets at third floor deck would not trip when tested. An electrician should repair/replace outlet to make safe and functional.
Door Bells:
U-type 3 hole grounded receptacle with NO GFI protection at second level deck. All exterior outlets should be GFI (Ground Fault Interrupter) type outlets for safety (required since 1973). Doorbells are operable.
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Inspector's Opinions Comments:
The home inspection disclosed numerous wiring HAZARDS that pose a real or potential FIRE or SHOCK hazards. As a safety priority, you should ask an electrician to further evaluate the entire electrical system to identify problems and to perform safety repairs or desired updating prior to ownership.
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HEATING & COOLING Scope of heating system inspection: The inspector shall observe permanently installed components including: heating equipment, normal operating controls, automatic safety controls, chimneys, flues & vents, solid fuel heating devices, heat distribution systems including fans, pumps, ducts & piping, with supports, dampers, insulation, air filters, registers, radiators, fan coil units, convectors and the presence of an installed heat source in each room. Scope of central air conditioning inspection: The inspector shall observe: cooling and air handling equipment, normal operating controls, distribution systems (as listed above), plus the presence of an installed cooling source in each room. Disclaimers: A. The inspector is not required to operate systems when weather conditions or other circumstances may cause equipment damage. B. The inspector is not required to operate automatic safety controls. Systems shall be operated using normal operating controls and shall be observed via readily openable access panels. C. The inspector is not required to ignite or extinguish fires or pilots. D. The inspector is not required to observe non-central air conditioners. E. The inspector is not required to observe or determine the uniformity or adequacy of heat supply or cool air supply to the various rooms. Be aware that comfort is relative; what is acceptable to the current owner may not be adequate for you. If possible, try to re-visit the home during extremely cold or hot weather to give you worst case conditions. F. The condition and operation of solar heating systems is EXCLUDED from this report. F. THE EVALUATION OF FURNACE HEAT EXCHANGERS IS EXPRESSLY EXCLUDED FROM THIS REPORT AS THEY ARE INACCESSIBLE FOR COMPLETE VISUAL EVALUATION. General comments: A. Equipment that is "SHUT-DOWN", not seasonally functional, out of fuel or does not respond to normal operating controls cannot be functionally evaluated. Re-appraisal by a heating or air conditioning technician is recommended prior to purchase. B. As preventative maintenance, all heating and cooling systems should be inspected and serviced annually by a HVAC technician. Annual service and repair contracts and automatic fuel delivery agreements are recommended. C. If you buy the home, I recommend that you have the heating & cooling systems completely evaluated and fully serviced to establish a base date of good annual maintenance. D. Owners of rental property are required to keep heating systems in good working order and to provide adequate heat between September 15th and June 15th, unless lease agreements define occupant responsibility. E. Todays construction requires that the "emergency shut-off switch" be located outside of the basement or boiler room so that the door remains closed for safety. Updating of older non-cornforming switch locations is advised. F. Be advised that when the outside temperature is less than 65 degrees F., the inspector cannot operate the central air conditioning system due to possible damage to the compresser. G. I strongly suggest that every home install carbon monoxide detectors for your protection from lethal carbon monoxide. Be advised that carbon monoxide can be generated not only from oil, gas or propane burners, but also from wood burning stoves, fireplaces and internal combustion engines (autos, lawnmowers, tractors, emergency generators) housed in attached garages or basements. H. Be advised of the following average appliance life expectancies: hot air furnace 15-20 years, steel boiler 20 years, cast iron boiler 30-40 years, compressor unit 10-12 years.
Central Heating System Type:
Type of Fuel: Estimated Age of Boiler or Furnace:
Cast iron forced hot water boiler. (Design life: 30-40 years.) Forced hot air furnace. (Design life: 15-20 years.) Oil.
15-20 years.
STOPFEL-15916 Heat Distribution: Hot Water Distribution: Hot Air Distribution Ducts: Distribution Insulation:
Page 44 Circulator pumps. Hot air blower (one zone). 2 zones.
Galvanized. No insulation observed.
Fuel System Fuel Capacity: Fuel Tank Location: Fuel System Observations/ Comments:
2-275 gallon tanks = 550 gallons. Steel oil tanks in basement. This type of tank & capacity are industry standard for residential installations. (Design life = 30-40 years).
The fuel line from the fuel tank to the burner is unprotected and/or runs under floor or is inaccessible. See picture. A leak in the line may go undetected and could develope into a very costly environmental problem and cleanup. To prevent an undetected fuel line leak, I suggest that old fuel line be replaced with a new fuel line contained in a liquid tight conduit. Old, rusted fuel tanks may be at the end of their design life. To prevent the high cost of replacement of a leaking fuel tank, I suggest you ask your fuel oil dealer to enroll you in a TANK GUARD program. For a nominal fee of about $30/year a solution (which is supposed to prevent interior corrosion of tank) is added to your tank. However, if a subsequent leak developes within one year the tank is replaced free of charge (this does not include the cost of any fuel spill cleanup). With the replacement cost of a standard 275 gallon tank at about $1,000, this is a worthwhile program.
Appears to be a leak in area of oil supply nipple leading from fuel tank. See picture. Further investigation is needed by service man.
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Systems Hot Water Boiler:
Missing or improperly piped discharge from boiler pressure relief valve. See picture. The discharge should be piped to within 6 inches of floor to prevent burns or scalds. Boiler needs cleaning/servicing. All heating equipment requires an annual cleaning and inspection by a reputable heating specialist to insure SAFE and EFFICIENT operation. In my opinion the best time to have your heating system cleaned and serviced is in the spring or summer AFTER the heating season. In this way the boiler does not sit for an extended period of time with corrosive soot, and your heating technician is not as busy at this time of year answering "no heat" call-outs. To drive home the point about proper maintenance, consider the following: Just one millimeter of soot deposited inside the combustion chamber - that's 0.0394 of an inch - can drop the efficiency of a boiler by 6 percent.
Furnace:
Appears to be excess air in boiler/distribution system. Technician should purge air from system. Furnace is at or near the end of its design life. Plan on replacement. Heat exchanger scaled/rusted. NOTE: Inspection of heat exchangers is NOT REQUIRED by the standards of practice of ASHI or the state of Massachusets. To thoroughly inspect a heat exchanger for cracks or leaks the furnace must be disassembled which is beyond the scope of an inspection. Contact a heating technician for further testing and investigation. Open return air register in return plenum on furnace is no longer allowed, as air from basement which could contain combustion fumes, radon, etc., might be circulated into living spaces. Remove or seal opening/register. Air filter is damaged and needs replacement. Suggest you contact a professional duct cleaning company to clean the hot air ductwork now and every few years. This improves the air quality in the house by removing dust/dirt that tends to collect in the ductwork. Hot air flow to living spaces should be balanced to your liking.
Exhaust System:
Furnace needs cleaning/servicing. All heating equipment requires an annual cleaning and inspection by a reputable heating specialist to insure SAFE and EFFICIENT operation. In my opinion the best time to have your heating system cleaned and serviced is in the spring or summer AFTER the heating season. In this way the furnace does not sit for an extended period of time with corrosive soot, and your heating technician is not as busy at this time of year answering "no heat" call-outs. To drive home the point about proper maintenance, consider the following: Just one millimeter of soot deposited inside the combustion chamber - that's 0.0394 of an inch - can drop the efficiency of a furnace by 6 percent. No visible problems observed.
STOPFEL-15916 Safety Systems/ Controls:
Page 46 No visible problems were observed.
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TRADESMEN SUGGESTED FOR EVALUATIONS/ REPAIR CONCLUSIONS: The task of a home inspector is to function as a "general practitioner" who identifies visible problems and then refers clients to applicable tradesmen or experts for further evaluation and / or repair estimates. In my opinion, you should review this report and contact the following specialists:
TRADESMAN OR PROFESSIONALS TO CONSULT: Trade or specialty:
Trade or specialty:
Carpenter. Plumber/Gas Fitter. Electrician. Attic ventilation specialist. Heating contractor. Mason. Chimney sweep. Siding contractor. Window or glass contractor. Gutter installer. Drywall or plaster contractor. Structural engineer. Pest control inspector. Lead paint inspector. Radon gas analysis. Wood floor refinishing contractor. Painter. Heating/Cooling duct cleaning service.
CLOSING STATEMENTS Dear client, The attached report provides you with an impartial documented list of the visible problems in the home that were disclosed to you during the home inspection. If you are purchasing this property, an earnest effort was made to provide you with the facts needed for intelligent decision making during the real estate purchasing process. Please contact me at 978-546-9323 or at
[email protected] should you require any further clarification or guidance. You may also find it helpful to visit my web site www.jimtebo.com. To prevent any surprises, you should obtain several estimates for any needed major repairs from appropriate tradesmen prior to purchase, and perform any other research or inspections needed to "gather all the facts". As you study the information disclosed by the home inspection and your research, please remember that "there is no such thing as a perfect house". You must determine if the purchase price, negotiated adjustments and needed repairs truly represent the condition of the property and your budget. The true cost of the home equals the purchase price plus the cost of any needed repairs. Please understand that the home inspection is NOT an "appraisal of worth", but merely an educated second opinion regarding the condition of the property. In closing, it is not my intention to influence your decision to purchase or not to purchase real estate - that decision is yours alone! But, I do hope that the inspection process has enabled you to make an informed and objective decision. Thank you for allowing me the opportunity to inspect your home. Sincerely, Jim Tebo