Section Iv Differential Feed 33

Transcript

SECTION IV DIFFERENTIAL FEED Differential feed allows you to sew many different types of fabrics eliminating puckering on lightweight woven fabrics and stretching on knits. When working on a serger without the differential feed feature, puckering and waving are unavoidable on some fabrics. Superlock owners need only to adjust the differential feed for professional seams and decorative applications as explained below. Your Superlock has two sets of feed teeth. Each set of feed teeth has an individual feed mechanism which enables the feeding of fabric at a different ratio, therefore feeding more or less fabric into the back teeth giving the desired result. The differential feed is adjusted by the dial located on the right side of your Superlock behind the stitch length dial. It has been labeled for your convenience. Differentiai feed dial 33 DIFFERENTIAL FEED Positive Differential Feed (1.5 2) The front feed teeth make a longer stroke than the rear feed teeth. This accumulates fabric under the presser foot to offset the wavering of the fabric. To accomplish this, set your differential feed control from 1.5 to 2.0. Positive differential feed is also used for gathering and easing. - Minimal Differential Feed (0.7 1) The front feed teeth make a shorter stroke than the rear feed teeth. This actually holds your fabric taut under the presser foot to offset puckering. The differential feed control dial setting for this procedure is 0.7 to 1. - Normal Differential Feed (1) The normal differential feed setting is 1. At the 1 setting both the front and the rear feed teeth are feeding at the same rate. ) 34 SERGING LIGHTWEIGHT FABRICS Some lightweight fabrics may pucker when serged. This can be prevented by using 0.7 setting of differential feed. Machine Setting Stitch length Stitch width Differential Feed 2.5 3.5 6 1 then change to 0.7 - - Fabric Silky woven Tension Setting Normal (LN)-4(RN)-4(UL) 4(LL) 4 - - - Serge •Raise the presser foot and set the differential feed to the normal setting of 1. Lower the presser foot •Fold fabric in half and serge a seam. There may be slight puckering. •Raise the presser foot and set the differential feed to 0.7 then lower the presser foot. •Serge another seam opposite the previous one. This seam should be pucker4ree thanks to your differential feed. NOTE: BE SURE TO RAISE YOUR PRESSER FOOT BEFORE CHANGING THE DIF FERENTIAL FEED TO ALLOW THE FEED TEETH TO FREELY MOVE TO THE NEW POSITION 35 SERGING STRETCH OR BULKY KNITS When serging stretch knits such as ribbing or bulky sweater knits, the seams tend to be wavy. This can be corrected by using the 1.5 2 differential feed settings. - Machine Setting Stitch Length Stitch Width Differential feed 3-4 6-7 1 then change to 2 - Fabric Rib knit Tension Setting Normal (LN)-4(RN)-4(UL)-4(LL) 4 - - Serge •Raise the presser foot and set the differential feed to the 1 setting then lower presser foot. •Fold fabric in half and serge a seam on one edge going with the stretch of the fabric. Your seam should look stretched and wavy. •Raise the presser foot and change your differential feed to 2.0. Lower presser foot and serge the opposite edge of your sample. This seam will be flat. Note: You have a wide range of settings from the 1 setting to the 2 setting which enables you to set your differential feed anywhere in between to accom modate a wide range of fabric types. 36 GATHERING You will never gather again with cording that breaks and bobbins that run out of thread. Save time by gathering ruffles and skirts to bodices by using differential feed on your Superlock. Machine Setting Stitch Length Stitch width Differential feed 5 6 2 Fabric Lightweight woven Tension Setting (LN) -8to9(RN) -8to9(UL) -4(LL) -4Serge •Insert fabric under the presser foot and serge one inch. •Place the forefinger of your left hand behind the foot and apply a small amount of pressure to the fabric as it emerges from under the presser foot. •After the length of fabric has been gathered, STOP, raise the presser foot and remove your fabric. Leave about a 10-12” thread tail as you may wish to adjust your gathers. •Be sure to put needle tensions back on 4 to prevent breaking needle threads if chaining off edge of fabric. Variation: Try using this technique on lace for lace rosettes. 37 SECTION V 3-THREAD SEWING TECHNIQUES Use a three thread seam for maximum stretch on knits or for an edge finish for seams If you prefer to finish first, then seam with a straight stitch and press open. The three thread edge finish prevents ravelling of your fabrics allowing your seams to lay flat. For a narrow three thread serge, clip the left needle thread just before the needle eye; for a wider three thread clip the right needle thread. 38 THREE THREAD SEAM OR EDGE FINISH Three thread Superlock techniques allow a single seam and lighter edge finish for medium to light weight fabrics. Using your left needle will give you a wider seam for medium weight fabrics. Using the right needle will give you a narrow stitch width seam for light weight fabrics. Machine Setting a Stitch Length 2.5 3 Stitch Width 6 Use Left Needle Only - Fabric Chino Tension Settings Normal (LN) 4 (UL)-4(LL) 4 - - - - Serge •Clip thread above right needle eye. -Remove right needle -Fold fabric in half. -Serge a wide three thread seam. Narrow stitch width seam -Remove left needle and place in needle cushion (ilIus.). Rethread right needle. -Sew a narrow seam along opposite edge of fabric. 4 a a 39 ROLLED EDGE This technique is normally used on soft fabrics, such as crepe de chine, georgette, silk and other light weight materials. This technique cuts, folds and overlocks the edge to give a fine 1.5mm rolled edge. Machine Setting Thread Stitch Length Stitch Width Stitch Finger Regular or Wooly nylon R 6 Removed Fabric Lightweight woven Tension Settings Remove the left needle. (RN)-4(UL)-4(LL) 4 - F Rolled Edge The fabric is rolled by adjusting. The thread tension and is overlocked with upper looper thread. - Setting Up your Superlock for Rolled Edge •Remove the left needle and place in needle cushion (you will sew only with the right needle). •Open left side cover and slide stitch finger out as illustrated. Place it in the holder provided just inside the front cover (illustrations 1 and 2). •Your Superlock is equipped with an Automatic Tension System specifically for the three-thread rolled edge. Simply set the right needle, upper looper, and lower looper tensions at 4 and select R’ on the stitch length dial. •At the beginning of sewing, gently pull the end of the thread chain. •Always test the stitch on a scrap piece of fabric first. - - Hint: If edge puckers, set differential feed to 0.7. 40 ____ PICOT EDGE For a picot or shell edge, turn the stitch length dial to P. This edging is perfect for chiffon , silk or other light weight fabrics. Mach me Setting Thread: Stitch Length: Stitch Width: Stitch Finger: Differential Feed: Regular thread, rayon thread or Wooly nylon. P 6 Removed 0.7 Fabric: Light Weight woven Tension Settings Remove the left needle (RN) -4(UL) -4(LL) -4Setting up your Superlock for a Picot or Shell edge •Set stitch length dial on P. •Serge picot edge along single edge of lightweight woven fabric. •The longer stitch length will create a picot or shell edge. NOTE: If serging rolled edge and longer stitch length is desired for less of a satin edge, turn stitch length dial toward P. The edge will still roll, making this ideal for heavie r decorative threads. For a decorative effect try using novelty threads in the rolled edge or picot edge. This includes Wooly nylon, metallic, silk, Sulky@ rayon, perle cotton, etc. The upper looper tension may need to be adjusted in the 3-7 range depending on fabric type and the decorative thread used. Remember to experiment first for the proper tension setting and stitch length (move stitch length dial toward P for a longer rolled stitch length). 41 SPAGHETTI STRAPS Use this technique for narrow spaghetti straps, braided or twisted belts, belt loops, etc. Machine Setting Stitch Length: Stitch Width: Stitch Finger: R 6 Removed Fabric Lightweight woven or tricot Tension Settings Normal (RN)-4(UL)-4(LL) 4- Serge with a rotted edge: •Cut the spaghetti strap one inch wider than the desired width. •Serge a thread chain as long as the desired strap plus 5 inches. •Fold the spaghetti strap around the thread chain as if the chain were a hot dog in a bun. •Serge down the open side seam trimming away 1/2” of fabric. •Gently pull the chain to turn the strap inside out. 42 SLIT OR PLACKET This technique can be used when seeing the plackets for the neckline of a blouse or for a cuff placket and is sewn just like the inside corner technique except using rolled edge. Machine Settings Stitch Length: R Stitch Width: 6 Stitch Finger: Removed Fabric Medium weight woven Tension Settings Left needle removed Normal Serge Cut a slit 3/4 of the way into our fabric. Open the slit so the inside edges of the slit form a straight line. There will be two small tucks at the top of the slit when it is pulled open. Using the inside edge of the cutter as a guide, roll the edge. _1/ 43 ROLLED EDGE “POKIES” When serging a roiled edge over lace or stiff fabric (linen and some cottons), the fabric threads may poke between the stitches on the rolled edge. Try roiHng over a water soluble stabHizer such as Solv® for a smoother finish. Cut the transparent stabilizer into strips with your rotary cutter and mat. Machine Setting REMOVE THE LEFT NEEDLE Thread Regular or decorative in the upper looper Stitch Length R Stitch Width 6 Stitch Finger Removed Fabric Medium weight woven (linen) Tension Settings (RN)-4(UL)-4(LL) 4 - - Serge •Position Solv on top of the fabric to be rolled. •Roll the SoIv and fabric together through the Superlock, trimming away 1I4 while serging. •Tear away excess Soiv® from rolled edge. Spray with water to remove any remaining SoIv. HINT: Another good way to handle pokies on some fabrics is to turn under one edge 112N and roil along the folded edge, being careful not to cut the fold of fabric. Trim away excess fabric with scissors when completed. 44 NARROW EDGE A narrow edge is formed by overlocking the fabric with a finish about 2mm in width. This technique is used on lightweight or soft fabrics. Machine Setting REMOVE THE LEFT NEEDLE. Thread Regular Stitch length 1-3 Stitch Width 6 Stitch Finger Removed Fabric Silky woven Tension Settings (RN)-4(UL)-4(LL) 4 - - Serge •This is a balanced stitch serged without the stitch finger. •lf using different types of thread, be sure and test on a scrap of fabric to adjust the tension and stitch length before sewing actual garment. 45 SAFELOCK This technique is excellent for reversible garments because it produces finishe d seamson both sides. It is also excellent for seams where durability is needed . The straight stitching to complete this technique does require a conventional sewing machine. Machine Setting Stitch Length 3 5 Stitch Width 6 Stitch Finger Inserted Use Left Needle Only - Fabric Sweatshirt Fleece Tension Settings Normal (LN)-4(UL)-4(LL)-4- Serge •Clip right needle thread above the needle eye and remove right needle. Reinsert left needle and re-thread. •Fold fabric in half, wrong sides together. •Serge the seam. •Press the seam to one side and stitch flat using a straight stitch on your conventional sewing machine. •Try using decorative threads in your upper and/or lower looper for a decorative look on one or both sides. 46 DECORATIVE EDGES Your Superlock has unlimited decorative possibilities using different threads for binding, edging, tucks, etc. Experiment with regular sewing threads, embroidery floss, metallic, topstitching threads, perle cotton, fine yarns, rayon threads, etc. Use decorative threads in the upper looper and/or lower looper. Machine Setting Stitch Length 3 5 Stitch Width 6 Stitch Finger Inserted Thread Regular thread lower looper Decorative thread upper looper - - - Fabric Denim Tension Settings (LN)-4(UL) 1 to 3 (LL) 4 - - - - When working with heavier decorative threads, you may find you need to loosen your upper looper tension, and when working with finer decorative threads you may need to tighten the upper looper. The general rule is: the heavier the thread the lower the tension. Serge •Thread decorative or specialty thread through upper looper. •Stitch around denim until the stitches meet. •Press the tension release lever down, remove your sample and use one of the finishing techniques described earlier. Note: When using a mixture of threads such as regular thread combined with heavy decorative threads, it may be necessary to make tension adjustments. Be sure to test your stitch on a scrap piece of the same material before sewing your garment. 4 47 DECORATIVE BRAIDS Decorative braid can be made by stitching over a narrow braid, cording or ribbon as wide as the three thread overlock desired. Use three of the same color threads, or mix them for variety. Embroidery floss, candlewicking, and topstitching thread will give you a full-looking braid. Machine Setting Thread Decorative in upper looper Stitch Length 3 5 Stitch Finger In Place - Fabric Braid, ribbon or cord (middy braid works well). Tension Settings Normal (LN)-4(UL)-2to4(LL)-2to4The upper and lower looper tensions may be slightly lower to accommodate the decorative thread. Serge Use one or two needles as desired. If you use both needles, the right needle will stitch through the braid or ribbon and keep it from shifting. Under most circumstances use the left needle only. “Choose your cord, braid or ribbon. Try contrasting colors for variety. •Use your cutter or the edge of the needle plate as a guide. Do not cut braid, cord or ribbon. •Feed braid under the presser foot and stitch. You will encase the braid in the stitching. •Finished braid can be sewn to other garments as a single braid, or entwined with other braids to create a decorative trim. 48 FLATLOCK/LADDER STITCHING & SEAMS This technique uses three threads to serge a ladder or trellis stitch used for topstitching or as a decorative stitch on one side of the fabric and a flatlock seam on the other. It can be used on knits, tricot, even fake furs and soft leather to serge decoratively and eliminate bulk. Machine Setting Thread Stitch Length Stitch Width Stitch Finger Regular or decorative 3 to 5 6-7 Normal Fabric Sweatshirt fleece or denim Tension Settings (LN)-O- 1(UL) 3 4 (Heavier thread (LL) -6-8- - - = lower tension) Serge •lf the ladder stitch is desired on the right side of the garment, fold fabric in half with right sides together. If flatlock stitch is desired, on the right side fold fabric in half with wrong sides together. •Place fold along right edge of needle plate, near the cutter. Do not cut the fabric. •Sew the seam together. For best results allow stitches to 9oop” slightly off the edge. •PuIl fabric apart and press. Adjust your tensions as needed. •Try a rayon thread in the needle for a decorative ladder stitch or on your upper looper for the flatlock. Hint: Use the Superlock optional accessory blind hem foot to guide you when stitching for perfect results. Adjust the guide, the thread loops slightly off the edge for the smoothest flatlock. 49 FLATLOCK TECHNIQUE LACE APPLICATION Using the flatlock, apply lace to lingerie the same way as found on ready-made. For wider seams use left needle only, and for narrower seams used on very fine fabrics and laces, use right needle only. Machine Setting Stitch Length Stitch Width Stitch Finger 3-5 6 In place Fabric Tricot and lace Tension Setting (LN)or(RN)-O- 1(UL) 2 to 4 (LL) 6 8 - - - - - Serge •Place lace on top of tricot near edge with right sides together. •Align lace edge with right side of needle plate near cutter. •Start to sew. Keep lace to inside of cutter. Trim fabric if desired. Do not cut lace. •Raise presser foot. Press tension release down and remove sample. •PulI lace and tricot apart to reveal ladder seam 3 50 FLATLOCK TECHNIQUE LINGERIE ELASTIC APPLICATION Machine Setting Stitch Length 4 to 5 Stitch Finger Normal Fabric Tricot and 3/8N lingerie elastic Tension Settings (LN) 0 to 1 (UL)-2to4(LL) 6 to 8 - - - - Serge •With right sides together, lay edge of elastic (picot edge to the left) along raw edge of sample. •Using inside edge of cutter as a guide, stitch, stretching elastic as you sew. •Pull tricot and elastic apart to reveal ladder stitching. Hint: The stitch length is increased because the less stitches sewn into elastic , the more elasticity it will have and the elastic will return to its normal size. For a really easy elastic application, use the Superlock optional access ory elastic foot (part #141 000302) as described in the optional accessory section of this workbook. 51 FLATLOCK TECHNIQUE FRINGE A fast and easy way to finish a wool scarf or tartan scarf. Machine Setting Thread Regular or decorative Stitch Length 3 to 5mm Fabric Hopsacking (loose weave) Tension Settings (LN or RN) 0 to 1 (UL) 2 to 4 (LL) 6 to 8 - - - - - - Serge ‘Remove right needle. ‘Use a water soluble pen to mark the edge or hemline. Cut away excess fabric. Try to cut on the straight of grain for easy, even fringing. •Mark an additional line up 1 112H from the edge or hemline. Fold along this line and press lightly, wrong sides together. ‘Insert fabric under the presser foot, and serge along the fold. •Work thread tail into stitching. •Pull fabric open. Starting at the raw edge, pull out all the horizontal threads up to the serged line. 52 ROLLED EDGE NOVELTY THREADS For a decorative effect try using novelty threads in the rolled edge. This includes Wooly nylon, metallic, silk, Sulk, perle cotton, 2-ply baby yarn, etc. Remember to experiment first for the proper tension setting and stitch length. Machine Setting Thread Decorative Stitch length R Stitch finger Removed Remove left needle. Wooly Nylon (Use in the upper looper.) Hint: Use a needle threader to thread the wooly nylon through the eye of the looper. Tension Settings (RN)-4(UL)-4(LL) 4 - - Metallic Thread (Use in the upper looper.) Tension Settings (RN)-4(UL)-4(LL) 4 - - Silk or Sulky® (Use in upper looper.) Tension Settings (RN)-4(UL)-4(LL) 4 - - Hint: You may wish to use a thread net to prevent the thread from slipping off the spool. 53 ROLLED EDGE FISHLINE RUFFLES OR WIRE EDGES To enhance any garment with ruffles, try rolling fishline into the rolled edge. The fishline causes the ruffle to stand up and curve gracefully away from the garment. Depending on the weight of the fabric you can use 14 lb to 60 lb weight of fishline. By adding wire to an edge, you can gain a lot of body and flexibility to an edge. (22 to 28 gauge floral wire works well.) It is great for creating bows and other craft projects. Machine Setting Removed the left needle. Thread Regular or decorative Stitch length R Stitch finger Removed Fabric For fishline: silky woven & fishline For wire: medium weight woven & wire Tension Settings (RN)-4(UL)-4(LL) 4 - - Serge •Stitch a 2” thread tail. Unroll fishline or wire and place it to the back of your Superlock •Snap the Specialty Technique Guide to the telescoping thread guide. The Specialty Technique Guide is found in the accessory bag. •Raise the presser foot. Put the fishline or wire through the Specialty Technique Guide, through the guide on the front, through the front hole in the foot, and bring to the back of the machine. •Stitch 2” to 3” to catch the fishline or wire in the thread tail. Be careful not to cut the fishline or wire. •lnsert the fabric under the presser foot and lower needle into the fabric. Lower the presser foot and hold on to the tail with your left hand from behind the machine. •Guide the fabric and fish line or wire with your right hand. •After 2” to 3” release left hand from the thread chain. •Roll and cover an additional 12”. Raise presser foot and press down on your tension release to remove project. Clip thread and fishline or wire. •On a garment, pull along the fishline or wire and fabric every yard or so before cutting fishline. Sometimes additional fishline and wire will be taken into the rolled edge. 54 NARROW OR SHELL EDGE This technique is normaNy used on soft fabrics such as crepe de chine, silk, light weight polyesters, etc. A narrow edge is formed by overlocking the fabric edge with a finish about 2mm in width. A shell edge can be done on scarf-like fabrics by tightening the lower looper tension. In lieu of the nature of these hems, they are unsuitable for use on hard or heavy fabrics. Machine Setting Remove the left needle. Thread Regular or Wooly nylon Stitch Length Narrow edge 1-3 Shell edge 3-5 Stitch Finger Removed Fabric Silky woven Tension Settings (RN)-4(UL)-2to4(LL) -3 to 4 (LL) 6 to 8 - - - (for narrow edge) (for shell edge) Serge •Thread tensions for these types of edges will vary with the type of fabric and thread you use. Testing on a scrap piece of fabric is recommended for correct tension and stitch length before sewing actual garment. •Sewing the shell hem on scarf-like fabric requires tightening the lower looper to make the shell or scalloped effect. •Finish corners as discussed in Section Ill. 55 SECTION VI 2 THREAD SEWING TECHNIQUES Two thread Superlock techniques give you many additional sewing options, such as flatlock, a light overcast and rolled edge. Threading for 2-Thread Sewing 1. Thread either the left or right needle only. Right needle for a narrow overcast flatlock and rolled edge: left needle for wide overcast or flatlock. Store the removed needle in the needle sponge. 2. Thread lower looper only. Tc r d vrock - 3. Move upper looper to its lowest position. — / 4. Remove 2thread converter from storage sponge inside front door (fig. 1). /2 F1g2 5. Slide converter lever on upper looper to the right and put the prong on the end into the upper looper eye (fig. 2 & 3). F1g3 I I 2 - Note: To remove the converter lever after 2 thread sewing, pull the prong out of the eye and slide to the left and return to the storage sponge (fig. 4). 1 Fg4 56 TWO THREAD OVERCAST The two thread overcast serges a lightweight finish when less thread build up is desired. Machine Setting Stitch length 3.5 4 Stitch width 6 Needle Left (Use right needle when a narrower overcasting is desired.) - Converter attached Fabric Lightweight woven Tension Settings (LN) 0-1(LL) 3-4Serge Place fabric under the foot with the edge against the cutter. Serge along the edge to finish. 57 TWO THREAD FLATLOCK Serge a two thread flatlock for decorative embellishments along a fold. Stitch and then pull the fold flat for a row of serging that resembles braided embellishment. Machine Setting Stitch length Stitch width Stitch finer Needle 3.5 4 6 Normal Left - Fabric Sweatshirt fleece Tension Setting (LN)-Otol (LL) 3 to 4 - - - Serge 1. Place fold of fabric 1I4 to the left of the cutter. 2. Stitch along the fold of the fabric with the left needle catching the fold of the fabric and looping off the edge as you sew. 3. Pull ooen and flat. Hint: Snap on the blind hem foot and adjust with the fold along the guide and needle catching the folded edge. 58 TWO THREAD WRAPPED EDGE Use the two thread wrapped edge for a reversible, decorative edge using specialty thread. Machine Setting Stitch length Stitch Width Stitch Finger Converter 3 35 6 In place Attached - Fabric Chino Tension Settings (LN) 4 5 (LL) 2-4 - Serge •Place under the presser foot and serge along the edge. •The decorative threads should wrap around to the back side of the fabric. ,. — — I I / 4; 59 TWO THREAD ROLLED EDGE Use the two thread rolled edge for lightweight fabrics when you want the lightest edge possible. Perfect for silky scarves. Machine Setting Stitch length 1 St itch width 5 Stitch finger removed Needle right Fabric Lightweight woven Tension Settings RN 5 LL 8-9 Serge Place under the presser foot and serge along the edge. 60 Section VII Optional Accessory Feet - BLIND HEM FOOT (141 000298- 05, 141 000299 1.0) - Purchase blind hem feet from your White sewing machine dealer. The blind hem foot is available in two sizes 0.5mm for fine and medium fabrics and 1.0mm for medium and heavy fabrics. - Machine Setting Stitch length Stitch width Stitch finger 4-5 6 In place Fabric Sweatshirt knit L Final hem length Tension Settings Normal (LN) -4(RN) -4(UL) -4(LL) -4Serge 1. Replace regular foot with blind hem foot. Push up blind hem foot with your finger when attaching (fig. 1). Turn up the hem to the required depth and press. Fold the hem back against the right side of the garment, creating a soft fold on the wrong side of the fabric (fig. 2). Fig. 1 Screw Final hem length Guide Fg. 2 2. Place fabric under presser foot wrong side up. Feed folded edge into the guide in the front of the foot and lower the presser foot. Try several stitches on a scrap of the foot and lower the presser foot. Try several stitches on a scrap of the actual fabric, and adjust the guide so that the needle just catches the fold. To adjust the guide loosen the screw on the top of the foot (fig. 3). Shift the guide to the right or left as needed, and tighten the screw. Fg.3 3. When correctly set, sew the hem. The outside edge will be cut away by the machine (fig. 3). After completion, open out and press again. The stitches should be almost invisible on the right side of fabric. Hint When starting a hem in the round, trim a small section of the hem so that the fabric can be inserted totally under the foot and on to the feed teeth. 61 PIPING/CORDING FOOT (#141 000300) The piping/cording foot speeds both the making of piping and the insertion process. Machine Setting 2 3 Stitch length Stitch width Stitch finger - 6 Normal Fabric Medium weight woven and piping Tension Settings Normal (LN) 4 (RN)-4(UL) 4(LL) -4 - - - - Serge 1. Replace regular foot with piping foot. 2. Cut square of fabric in two and lay piping along seam line between the two pieces of fabric (right sides together). 3. Insert fabric pieces under the foot so that the piping lays in the groove under the foot. 4. Serge piping into the seam. ‘il’ 62 ___ ELASTIC FOOT (#141 000302) An elastic foot is also available as an optional accessory foot. This foot will guide 1I4 to 3i8’ elastic, and at the same time stretch the elastic with our specially designed tension controlled roller, allowing you to control the stretch while you sew. Purchase your elastic foot from your local authorized White dealer. Machine Setting Stitch length Stitch width Stitch finger 4-5 5mm for a 4 thread overlock 4.0mm for a 3 thread overlock In place Fabric Medium weight woven Tension Settings Normal (LN) -4(RN) -4(UL) -4(LL) -4Serge 1. Replace the regular foot with the elastic foot. 2. Raise the elastic foot; loosen tension control screw on the elastic foot to open front of the foot. Insert elastic into and under the foot, until it reaches behind the foot. 3. Sew the elastic for one inch or more to be sure elastic is being caught. Tighten tension screw to stretch elastic. j 4. Insert the fabric under the foot and sew together with the elastic. 5. Check the stitch and adjust the tension if necessary. I 6. To adjust the amount of stretch: a. Tighten adjustment screw for more stretch in the elastic. (Turn screw to the right to tighten). b. Loosen the adjustment screw for less stretch. (Turn screw to the left to loosen). Hint: Insert elastic into foot before placing foot on Superlock. 63 SHIRRING FOOT (#141 000301) This foot, also known as a gathering foot or separator foot, is used for joining two pieces of lightweight fabric while gathering only one of the fabric layers as it is stitched to the flat layer. Machine Setting Stitch length 3 4 Presser foot Shirring foot Stitch width 6 Right & left Needle In place Stitch finger - Fabric Two strips lightweight woven Tension Settings Normal (LN)-8(RN)-8(UL) 4(LL) 4 - - be straight be gathered - Serge 1. Snap on the shirring foot. 2. Raise the presser foot and bring the needles to the highest position. 3. Place the bottom fabric layer (2) between needle plate and shirring foot and insert it up to the needle against the upper cutter. 4. Place the top fabric layer (1) in the opening of the shirring foot and flush with the bottom layer. 5. Lower the presser foot and sew guiding the fabric against fabric guide. 6. Do not hold back bottom fabric layer as it gathers. 64 SECTION VIII Special Hints Puckery Fabric 1. Check to make sure the stitch finger is in the normal position. 2. Make sure your stitch width is set correctly for the weight of the fabric you are working with. 3. Make sure your tensions are set correctly. You may find your looper tensions or your needle tensions are too tight. Skipped Stitches 1. Improper needle type. Be sure to use an Organ brand needle. 2. Needle may be dull or bent change to a new needle. 3. Machine may be improperly threaded. Rethread and check all threading points. 4. Upper looper tension may be too tight. Loosen it slightly. 5. In any case, do not use a yellow or red banded needle. - Stitches Show Through on the Right Side of Seam 1. Needle tension is too loose. Increase tension slightly. 2. Machine is threaded while tension is engaged. Use tension release lever when threading through the tension and pull thread into tension discs. 3. Needle is dull or burred causing a poor quality stitch. Change to a new needle. 4. Thread is not in thread guides or has slipped out. Thread Continues to Break 1. The number one cause of thread breakage is incorrect threading. Make sure the looper take up lever is threaded correctly and that all the thread guides used are the proper symbol. It is important that each thread follow only one symbol. 2. Tension is too tight reduce the tension slightly to the corresponding looper/needle that is breaking thread. 3. Needle is dull, bent, or burred change needle after completion of each garment. 4. Thread is caught on the spool or is wrapped around the spool pin use spool caps to help support the thread as it is being released. 5. Improper threading sequence- if a looper breaks, needle thread must be removed from the eye of the needle before rethreading the looper. 6. Old brittle thread or rough and uneven thread could cause breakage. 7. Check to make sure that the thread guide pole is completely extended. Because of the speed of the Superlock, f the pole is not completely extended, thread breakage can happen. - - - 65 Cannot Get a Tight Stitch at the Cut Edge of the Fabric If you are adjusting for a new fabric, for example a T-shirt knit, and a loop forms on the outside edge of the fabric. 1. Looper tensions may be too loose increase both looper tensions. 2. Check to see that the thread is laying inside the tension discs. Use the tension release lever when threading tension grooves. 3. Thread has slipped out of a thread guide recheck all threading points. 4. C utter is cutting too much fabric off. Recheck to make sure your stitch width is set for the appropriate fabric. - - Explanation: Why does this happen? On some fabrics such as T-shirt knit or other fine knits, the moving cutter (upper cutter) is drawing or stretching the knit as it is being cut. When it “springs back” to its normal shape, we end up with loops on the outer edge. To correct this you will need to work with your width adjustment. Adjusting Tensions An easy association to remember when adjusting tensions is that the upper looper lies on the upper portion of the fabric and the lower looper lies on the lower portion of the fabric. The needle is the straight stitch. Note: Whenever you have a tension problem there will be at least two threads interacting. Because of this you will always have two choices: Increase one thread tension or decrease the other thread tension, but usually not both at the same time. Continue in this manner until a balanced tension has been reached. You have just rethreaded your Superlock. The tension before rethreading was beautiful but after rethreading one of the looper tensions is unbalanced. Attempting to adjust by tightening the tension dials does not work. When you pull on the thread coming out of the tension dials, there doesn’t seem to be any tension on the thread. How could the tension dial malfunction simply by rethreading your Superlock? Explanation: When rethreading your Superlock, always use your tension release lever. When you lift the presser foot on your Superlock the tension does not automatically release as it does on a conventional sewing machine. Therefore you need to use the tension release lever to ensure that the thread will correctly “seat” itself in the tension assembly. If the thread is not seated properly in the tension discs, the tensions will not adjust properly or thread may pop out of the tension discs. Machine is Jamming 1. Fabric is being inserted behind the cutting blade. Since the cutter is in front of the needle, it must be able to trim the fabric before it is carried through the needle. 2. Thread is being caught under the presser foot. At the completion of each seam let the Superlock run so that a tail is left behind the presser foot, or use your tension release lever and pull out a tail of threads. 3. Presser foot pressure is too tight. Adjust this with the pressure release dial on the top of your Superlock. 66 INDEX Accessories Adjustable Fabric Guide Adjusting Cutting Width Adjusting Presser Foot Pressure Adjusting Stitch Length Acjusting Thread Tension 4 7 25, 26 6 24 21 Balancing Stitch Basic Sewing Techniques Blind Hem Foot Blind Hem Fold Braid Built-in Thread Cutter 25 22 61 32, 61 48 Casing or Hem Fold Changing/Inserting Needles Changing Presser Foot Changing Thread Cleaning Closing Front Cover Corded Overlock Cutting Width Dial Cutting Width/Stitch Width 32 10, 11 6 18 8 5 30 3, 25 25 Decorative Edges Differential Feed Differential Feed Dial Disengaging Upper Cutter 47, 53 33 33 7 Elastic Applicaiton Elastic Foot 51, 63 63 4-thread Overcast 4-thread Techniques Fabric Guide Flatlock Foot Control Fringe 23 22-37 7 49 5 52 Gathenng 37 Handwheel Hints for Successful Stitching 6 9 Identification Chart Inside Corners 3 29 Jamming 66 67 Lace Application Ladder Stitch IllJLeft Needle Lightweight Fabrics Lingerie Elastic Application Loose Stitch Lower Looper 50 49 16 35 51 66 15, 20 Minimal Differential Feed 34, 35 Narrow Edge Needles, Insertion Needle Selection Needles, Thread and Fabric Chart Needles, Threading Needle Threader Normal Differential Feed 45, 55 10, 11 10 11 16, 17 17 34 Oiling Opening Front Cover Outside Corners Optional Accessory Feet 8 5 28 61-64 Picot Edge Piping Foot “Pokies” ‘Positive Differential Feed Power/Light Switch Puckery Fabric Presser Foot Lift Presser Foot Pressure Adjustment/Dial 41 62 44 34, 36, 37 5 65 6 6 Replacing Needles Ribbing Right Needle Ruffles Rolled Edge Rolled Edge Over Fishline or Wire Rosettes 10 31 16 37 40, 53, 54 54 37 Safelock Seam and Seam Finish Securing Beginning and End of Seam Selecting Thread Set-Up and Maintainance Shell Edge Shirring Foot Sleeve Placket 11511t or Placket 1iJ Skipped Stitches Spaghetti Straps Special Hints 46 23 27 9, 11 5 55 64 29 43 65 42 65 68 Spool Caps Specialty/Decorative Threads Specialty Technique Guide Spool Holders Spool Nets Stitches Showing on Right Side of Seam Stitch Finger Stitch Length Stitch Length Dial Storage Stretch Knits/Bulky Knits Swing-Away Side Cover 2-thread Converter 2-thread Flatlock 2-thread Techniques 2-thread Rolled Edge 2-thread Overcast 2-thread Wrapped Edge 3-thread Seam 3-thread Techniques Table of Contents Testing Stitch Tension Thread Thread Cutter Thread Guide Pole Threading Threading and Tension Thread Breakage Threading for 2-thread Threading Sequence Threading Lower Looper Threading Upper Looper Turning the Handwheel Tying-on Thread Upper Cutter UpperLooper 12 12, 41, 54 30 12 12 65 40 24 3, 24 8 36 5 3, 56 58 56 60 57 59 39 38-56 i, ii 19 12-21, 67 9, 11 7, 19 13 12-21 12-21 65 56 13 15 14 6 18 3, 7 14,20 Vinyl Cover 8 Waste Tray/Trim Tray 7 69