The C,tuxe Automatic Zig Zag Sewing Machine

Transcript

I I I - / The c,tuxe / _I Automatic ZIG ZAG Sewing Machine INSTRUCTION BOOK CONTENTS Features and Parts Sewlight Installing Head into Cabinet Setting the Needle Winding the Bobbin Threading the Bobbin Case Placing Bobbin Case in Shuttle Upper Thread Setting the Stitch Length Sewing in Reverse Adjusting the Tensions Adjusting Pressure and Feeding of fabric Preparing to Sew Removing the Work Regulating Width of Zig-Zag Stitch Automatic Sewing Sewing Designs The Zipper Foot & To Make Cording with Zipper Foot Embroidering With a Hoop Darning Making Buttonholes Sewing on Buttons How to Use Accessories Care and Maintenance of Your Machine Cleaning and Oiling the Shuttle Check Up for Smooth Sewing Needle and Thread Sizes 2 3 3 4 4 5 6 7 8 8 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 9 the jlfeedle Selli . See Fig. 3. Raise the needle bar to its highest point, turning wheel toward you by hand. Then loosen the needle clamp screw and the needle can be inserted into clamp. Place needle (flat side to right) in the needle clamp and push it upward as far as it will go into the needle clamp hole, tightening the needle clamp screw securely with a screw driver. Fr)L 31 1- Fig. 3 9 the I?o44i.z */üidüi Disengage the hand wheel (Fig. 4) from the stitching mecha. nism by turning the clutch toward you or counterclockwise. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin, lead thread through the upper thread guide on the arm, and down through the tension disc (Fig. 5) at the base of the machine. Run end of thread through a hole in the bobbin edge and place bobbin on spindle of bobbin winder, fitting the notch on bobbin over small pin on spindle. Push bobbin winder against hand wheel, Hold thread end loosely and start machine slowly. Bobbin will stop winding when it is filled. Turn clutch away from you until sewing mechanism is again engaged so that needle moves when you turn the hand wheel. Break off loose thread end used to start the winding. 5 e Th’zead ihe I?czII’a Ca’m 1”. ‘ Before threading the bobbin case, study Fg. 6, 7 & 8 to get a general idea as to how it is done. Hold the bobbin case with your left hand and put the bobbin into the bobbin case with your right, leav ing about two inches of the thread end unwound Fig. 6). As the bobbin is being inserted in the bobbin case, the thread flow, you vill note, in clockse Fig. 6). 2, While holding the bobbin case as before, grasp the thread end with the right hand, guide it into the cross slot (Fig. 7). 3. Then pull it throught under the tension spring of the bobbin case Fig. 7) until it enters the (lelivery eye Fig. 8). Fig. 5 / .,NSPRNG / N Fig. 6 Fig. 7 t 8 \ P1ac f?óIL&4 ee i S/u 1. Raise the presser bar by lifting the presser bar lifter. 2. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the balance wheel toward you. 3. Pull out slide plate (Fig. 9). 4. Hold the bobbin case latch (Fig. 10) between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, with at least three inches of thread running from the top of the bobbin case to the right. Insert and center the bobbin case on the stud of Fig. 9 the shuttle body. Be sure the bobbin case finger is opposite the shuttle race notch. Press the bobbin case into the shuttle as far as possible until latch catches on the center post of the shuttle. 5. THEN release the bobbin case latch, Press bobbin case again after latch has been released. To make sure the bobbin case is locked securely in place. Close the cover plate. Fig, 10 7 l1,tzisze 7h4ead 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. lever to Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise the take-up its highest position. (Fig. 11) Place a spool of thread on the spool pin. Lead the thread through the upper arm thread guide. to the ten Run the thread down through the thread guide bar to left. right from them n sion discs, then around and betwee a slight with and spring check the Draw the thread up through Fig. 11) insert, tug into the hook. (See of the Pass the thread under the bar and up through the eye left. to right from take-up lever through the Lead thread down through the lower thread and then needle bar guide from the back. g it through Thread needle FROM LEFT TO RIGHT, drawin about 3 or 4 inches. wheel toward Hold the end of upper thread loosely and turn hand back up. comes and down way the all goes you until the needle can be then which thread upper the over A loop will be formed slot of the pulled out straight. Place both thread ends under the e. leaving presser foot and draw toward the back of the machin both threads three or four inches long. Fg. Ii 9 44e Sükh SeI The length of the stitch is regulated by the knob, Fig. 12. Near 0 is the shortest stitch and 4 is the longest, but the knob may be set at any spot between markings for a variety of lengths. Turn the knob to the left to lengthen and to the right to shorten the stitch. 9 Sews#i Fig. 12 When you wish to sew backward, to tie the threads at the beginning or end of a seam, press the button in Fig. 12, as far as it will go. The machine will sew backward as long as the button is held in. s the 4 1 4dj Te n sions Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot down, as the tension is automatically released when it is raised. To increase the tension on the upper thread, turn dial (Fig. 13) to the right, or clockwise. To decrease turn to the left. The higher number on the dial the tighten the tension. Before adjusting lower tension be sure that the machine is threaded properly. When necessary to change the bobbin tension, turn small screw on side of the bobbin case clockwise to tighten, counter-clockwise to loosen. Fig. 13 9 When the upper and under tensions are properly balanced, a perfect stitch will be formed with both threads interlocking in fabric (Fig. 14). When the upper tension is too tight, the lower thread is pulled up over the upper thread which is lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 15). When the under tension is too tight, the upper thread from loops over the lower thread lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 16). Fig. 14 Correct Stitch Fig. 15 Needle Thread Tension too strong Fig. 16 Needle Thred Tension too weak Fig. 17 9 PZeS4e ad %ed o %bac 4dsk GENERAL SEWING. Usually for straight sewing and zigzag stitching, the pressure bar cap or darner release, Fig. 17, is at its lowest position and the drop feed release knob, Fig. 18, is Turn to the right “N”. Fig. 18 SEWING THIN OR LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS. When lighter pressure is required to sew satisfactorily on thin silk or filmy material, the pressure cap should be about halfway down. Release all the way by pressing the snap lock, A, Fig. 17, and then press cap B Fig. 19 down again to halfway spot. The Drop feed knob pointer (Fig. 18) should be at the middle of indicator “S”. DARNING AND MONOGRAMING. In order to move the fabric freely in any direction for darning, mending and certain kinds of free. hand embroidery, release the pressure cap B completely by pressing down on the snap lock, A, Fig. 17. Turn the Drop feed knob to the left, “E” which drops the feed well below the needle plate. To return feed to normal, the Drop feed knob turn to the right “N”. Fig. 20 Fig. 19 Fig. 21 11 Hold the end of the upper-thread with the left hand, leaving it slack from the hand to the needle. Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise the needle bar to its highest position. Pull the thread you are holding, as the lower thread will be brought up with it through the hole in the needle plate, as shown Fig. 20. Place both ends of the upper and lower thread to the back of the presser foot Fig. 21. Now, place material to be sewn beneath the presser foot and lower the presser foot. Start sewing by slowly turning the balance wheel in direction toward you while gradually working the foot or knee control. DO NOT TRY to help the feeding by pulling the material as this may deflect the needle and cause it to break. ALWAYS TURN BALANCE WHEEL TOWARD YOU! Be sure to stop the machine when the thread take-up lever and needle bar are located at the highest position. Now raise the presser foot and draw the fabric back and pass the threads over the thread cutter. Pull down slightly, holding thread in both hands, so as not to bend the needle. Leave the ends of thread under the presser foot. /?ea/.atii9 the *Jidlh oj 3’9-Ja9 Sühh The width of the zigzag stitch is regulated by the zigzag width knob (Fig. 22). By turning the zigzag width knob, the zigzag width indicator appearing in the zigzag width window will move from O-4 and the width of the zigzag stitch will increase accordingly. In order to set the desired zigzag of the zigzag stitch. use the zigzag width limiting lever attached to the back side of the zigzag width knob. By turning the zigzag width limiting lever together with the zigzag width knob, you can set your desired zigzag width. In order to revert to the previously used zigzag width, turn only the zigzag width knob. Fig. 22 13 4doinaüc Sew Your machine can sew beautiful stitches AUTOMATICALLY with 18 automatic sew discs. To insert a zigzag disc into the machine, follow these instructions: 1. Pull lid A open. 2. Turn zigzag width dial B to the extreme right, and keep it there during insertion. Turn disc until it slips down and 3. insert disc into axle C the retaining pin D) enters hole E) in disc. 4. Release dial (B). 5. Chse lid A To remove the disc, open the Nd, turn dial B to the right and pull disc up. Now GLI can insert another disc to produce another design. . Fig. 23 (Cams attached to the machine) 14 SEWING III?m llIll4#illill C am No. 14 C am No. 3 C am N . 15 0 Cam No. 4 Cam No. 16 Cam No. 5 Cam No. 17 Cam Cam No. 18 No. 6 Cam No. 7 WIIIihIN dII1Illh/lltllhI1lh.. C am No. 20 Cam No. 9 Cam No.21 C am No. 1 1 Cam No. 12 ] 1flIWlT lit .j ;#‘, .it;, wVl wv wm J JL. //IL L L C am No. 1 9 C am No. 8 Cam No. 10 rijujq Cam No. 13 C am No. 1 C am No. 2 DESIGNS h_i_/L Cam No.22 J L C am No. 23 Cam No.24 A{k A. Ai I •& L AkLiL J J 4 ?iw1?f. 15 8 Jie* Th The zipper foot can be readily adjusted to either the right or left side of the slide fastener. Loosen the screw “A” (Fig. 24a & 24b) and slide the foot into desired position. Adjust the needle position as required to make the stitching close to the zipper teeth. Needle plate should be in zig-zag sewing position and use zig-zag presser foot, so that needle position can be changed freely. wdh To Mahe JIape 4Zoo Cut a true bias strip of fabric wide enough to go over the cord and allow for a seam, usually 1” to 2” depending on size of the cord. Place cord inside the bias and place it under the foot so Stitch the fabric as close as possible to the cord without that the seam edges are to the left. catching it. Gently stretch the bias as you sew (Fig. 24c). A Fig. 24. Fig. 24b Fig. 24c 16 .w *Je4 a €1Iooi r ioid 9 t,n4 . 4 It is easy to follow a stamped design or free hand when embroidering or work to monogramming. (See Fig. 25). Release the pressure from the foot by pressing down the snap lock on the automatic darner. Turn the drop feed knob to the left E” which drops the feed well below the needle plate. Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop, and place under the needle after removing the presser foot. Set the stitch width at the size you prefere and lower the presser bar lifter. Then operate the machine at a rather high carefull and be sure to keep fingers out of speed while moving the hoop slowly both hands. Work the path of the needle. Release pressure from foot and drop feed as directed above. moving the fabric firmly and Place fabric to be mended under foot, and stitch around hole, d, completing the stitching outwar center from slowly in any direction. To fill in the hole, stitch in fabric. 9 &dlo#iholes Afahn Thi, type of Buttonhole Foot can he used for buttonhole and also zigzag sewing. First, mark the beginning and end of the buttonhole on babric with a basing line or tailor’s chalk. Make one on scrap fabric followmg directions below) to he sure machine adjustments are correct. 1. Replace presser foot with buttonhole foot which is grooved deeply underneath to prevent piling up of the thread (See Fig, 26. 2. Look the stitch width between 1 and 2, and set the stitch length near 0. 3. Lower needle carefully into the mark on fabric indicating Fig. 26 the beginning of buttonhole. Stitch to the mark for the end of the buttonhole, step 1, Fig. 27, stopping machine with needle in fabric at right side of stitching. 4. Lift the presser foot and using the needle as a pivot, C turn the fabric end for end. OH 5. Lower presser foot and turn hand wheel just enough S S S to raise needle out of fabric. Til L 6. Drop feed knob turn to the left and move zigzag E E F. Till knob to 4. While holding the knob at 4 width, take P P p p Tfl five or six stitches to form bar tack, step 2, Fig. 26. E 4 3 2 1 D 7. Raise needle out of fabric and return feed to “UP” position and let stitch width dial return to 2. Fig. 27 8. Stitch second side of buttonhole, step 3 9. Make bar tack by repeating 5 and 6 above (step 4). 10. Return stitch width to 0 and take two or three stitches to fasten bar threads and prevent raveling. Cut the buttonhole opening with a seam ripper, being careful not to cut the stitching. ‘I TI tarlatan or paper which can be If you plan to make buttonholes on sheer or soft material, place to make several buttonholes on wise always is it And fabric. the under g, turn away after stitchin t. garmen scraps of fabric before working on the Sewü eøs Fig. 28) 1. Remove hinged presser foot and attach button sewing foot. (See position. down to 2. Drop feed Place the button so that its left hole 3. Move zigzag width dial to ‘0’ position or to the extreme left. foot. Move the zigzag outer dial presser the lower comes directly under the needle, then gently the button. to the right until the needle come exactly over the right hole ofclears both holes of the button. needle the sure be to hand by slowly wheel e Turn the balanc place. in lock then Correct width if neccessary, at medium speed, rnakin ve 4. When needle goes into the center of each hole, run the machine or six stitches, stopping with the needle in the left hole. width at 0, and take a few stitches 5. To lock the zigzag stitch and prevent raveling, set the stitch ick toothp d rounde a place may If you wish you in the same hole. in fabric to button sew and two holes, the n betwee , over the button , regular way. Remove the toothpick and wind thread upper button forming a shank. Fasten. Apply the above method to sew on buttons with four holes, hooks and snaps, etc. If a four hole button is to be sewn, follow the same procedure above for the two hole button. Now lift presser foot slightly and move fabric to permit stitching the remaining two holes. Kooks, snaps, etc., are sewn to the fabric with the same procedure as for sewing two hole buttons. 19 ,4øw Io ‘lisa 4ocooies NARROW HEMMER. While the needle at its highest position, For a ‘eplace regular presser foot with narrow hemmer (Fig. 29). )lain narrow hem’ make a 1,i8 inch double fold for about two inches long of fabric. Hold each end of the two inch fold, slip underneath emmer. Bring fold up in to the scroll of hemmer, draw foward to nd and fasten with point of needle. Lower presser bar lifter. Gently 3u11 ends of threads as you stitching. Guide material slightly to right, and it will automatically take a louble turn through scroll. LACE TRIMMED HEM. To sew a narrow hem and attach lace n one stitching, insert lace in the slot next to needle. Sew hem as above, guiding lace in under needle and hem into scroll. LACE EDGE WITH INVISIBLE STITCHING, Hold lace 1/8 inch rrom raw edge On right side of fabric. Insert both in scroll as for lain narrow hem. Let hem roll over and sew in lace. Press lace It is possible to have a ut flat along edge with hem turned up. ittle fullness in lace by feeding it freely under scroll. FRENCH SEAM. With right sides together, place top piece of iaterial 1/8 inch inside edge of lower piece. Insert in hemmer scroll illowing hem to roll over and sew in top fabric, making French eam. Fig. 29 FLAT FELLED SEAM. Open out French seam and insert rolled Fag. 30 edge in scroll of hemmer. Edgestitch to lay seam flat. HAND ROLLED EFFECT. Use a narrow zigzag stitch. just wide enough to catch both edges )f the narrow, rolled hem. QUILTING GUIDE. This guide for making parallel rows of stitching is attached by placing the conged holder between the presser foot and the presser foot thumb screw (Fig. 30). _ 20 Adjust the curved bar to press lightly on the fabric. By letting the guide ride on the first stitching line, succes sive rows will be an equal distance apart. When the bar is attached so that the curved part is to the right of the needle, it may also serve as a seam width guide. SEAM GAUGE OR CLOTH GUIDE. Use the seam gauge as a guide for straight seams and even rows of top stitching along edges of fabric. Fasten gauge with accompanying screw in threaded hole in needle plate or in bed of machine (Fig. 31). Adjust to seam width desired. e*e ad Afadenawe 0/ 1o Fig. 31 Afachüie HOW TO OIL YOUR MACHINE depends on Your machine should be oiled occasionally to keep it operating smoothly-how often do. you sewing t of the amoun in Fig. 32, turn Before oiling the upper part of the sewing unit at points indicated by arrows point. lowest its at is lever take-up hand wheel toward you until the ‘: I’ Fg. 32 . 33 9 F Avoid over oiling. Only a drop is needed at each point. its hinges and apply a drop of To oil parts under the bed of the machine, tip the unit back on oil at each point indicated in Fig. 32. 21 eIu and (Z Ihe Sh (See Figs. 34 and 35) The stitch forming mechanism occasionally becomes clogged with loose threads and hnt. This will interfere with the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning and removal of the lint will safeguard the performance. To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed as follows: 1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its high. est position. Tilt head back on its hinges. 2. Remove bobbin case (A), Fig. 35. A_._q 3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps (B) outward and remove the shuttle race cover (C) and shuttle body (0). C-, -—-—-a I’ Fig. 34 Fig. 35 4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle, and shuttle race cover by removing all threads, lint, etc. 5, Apply a drop of oil with finger tip to outer edge of shuttle When the cleaning has been :ompleted, proceed as follows to replace the shuttle assembly: Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its highest position. 9 Place shuttle body, (D), against shuttle driver and adjust into position. 3. Replace shuttle race cover, (C), fitting pin at lower edge into notch, and lock into position with shuttle race cover clamps, (B), making certain the clamps have been snapped securely into position. 4. Put bobbin into bobbin case. 5. Put the bobbin case into the shuttle race, fitting tongue into notch E of race cover. 22 Chech / Sinoo4 Sewu shculd any of the following Although your sewing machine is designed for maximum efficiency, ents. difficulties occur they can he remedied with minor adjustm Upper Thread Breaks Be sure needle is inserted properly. Check on correct way to thread machine. Use correct needle size for thread. Do not have upper tension too tight. Lower Thread Breaks Check correct method of threading bobbin case. Be sure lower tension is not too tight. Needle Breaks eventually break the needle. Do not tug or pull on the fabric while sewing as this will bend and bar. to d attache firmly Be sure presser foot is Skipped Stitches Do not use a blunt or bent needle. Insert needle correctly. Use correct needle size for thread. Be sure pressure on foot is sufficient when sewing heavy fabrics. Stitches Loop ly. d Make sure tensions are properly balanced and that machine is threade correct Machine Binds Clean thread, dust and lint from hook, shuttle and race. kerosene to oil If condition continues, it may be that the machine is gummy with oil. Apply machine sewing fine with te again lubrica Then dry. wipe holes, run rapidly for a while, and oil. ______________ 23 NEEDLE AND THREAD SIZES (USE 15 xl NEEDLE ONLY) Sizes & Grades of Type of Fabric 0 or 11 (Medium-Fine) ‘/ or 14 (Medium) 1 or 16 (Light-Heavy) 2 or 18 (Medium-Heavy) 3 or 19 (Heavy) 4or21 (Extra-Heavy) Work to be Done SIZE OF THREAD Cotton Linen Silk — and Needles — Medium light-weight and summertime fabrics. For house dresses, children’s dresses, washable cotton dresses, aprons, curtains. 80 to 100 Twist Dress silks and Cottons, light weight woolens, draperies, fabric furnishings. For general household sewing, fine men’s shirts, smocks, window draperies and fabric decorations. 60 to A&B Twist Heavy cretonne, madras, muslin, brocades and quilts. For men’s work shirts, sturdy smocks and aprons, heavy quilting and fabric furnishings. 40 bed ticking, fabrics. strong linen matteresses. 30 to 60 Heavy woven suiting, coating, duck, ticking, drilling, canvas and sacking. For heavy wash uniform, bedding supplies for hospitals, hotels and camps. io Heavy woven coating, light weight canvas, upholstery and awning materials, slipcover For work or sports uniforms. suits made of or cotton fabrics, awaings, slip covers and For bags, canvas, coarse cloths and heavy goods. 80 to to 30 Very Twist D Twist E Twist 60 to to Printed in Japan