Tri-pacer Contruction Manual

Transcript

Construction Manual Your Tri-Pacer kit employs MosquitoBite Planes' FastFit system—a technology that takes advantage of laser accuracy to produce selfjigging, strength-enhanced substructures. It is also designed with you—the builder—in mind. Parts are labeled for easy identification and fit snugly together. The mechanical diagrams in this manual make it very clear how the pieces interlock. Your Tri-Pacer kit should be built in the order it is presented in the manual. By following this manual, your Tri-Pacer kit will come together easily and accurately. Kit Contents x1 x6 x1 Plastic Sleeve 12" Threaded Rod 1⁄8" Music Wire x1 x3 x1 x1 Nose Gear and Hardware Set Control Horn Pkg. Landing Gear Strap Pkg. (Including 8 Screws) Large-Hinge Pkg. x7 x11 x2 x6 x6 CA Hinges 3⁄32 1⁄2" Screws Nylon Bolts Clevises Clevise Keepers x1 x1 x1 Clear Plastic Windshield Sheet Clear Plastic Side Windows Sheet White Plastic Cowling Sheet x2 Landing Gear Wire (a smaller and a larger one) x4 x17 x1 3⁄8" 1⁄8" Balsa 6"x48" (or equivalent) x1 x51⁄2 1⁄16" Balsa 6"x48" Sheeting x4 x15 x4 x4 Shopping List sq sticks Balsa sq sticks Balsa 1⁄4" sq sticks Spruce 1⁄4" 1⁄8" Laser-Cut Balsa Sheets 6"x24" Laser-Cut Poplar Ply Sheets 6"x24" 1⁄8" Birch Plywood Laser-Cut Sheets 6"x24" 1⁄16" Birch Plywood Laser-Cut Servo Bases 1⁄8" Manual Plan Sheets 1 & 2 Tools/Aids 31⁄4" 31⁄2" • 3 Wheels with Lock Collars (trike): Nose, Main. • Tail Wheel (if you are building a tail-dragger) • Appropriate-sized Engine (.50-.65, 2-stroke or .65-.82 4-stroke)* • Propeller: 14/5 - 14/8 • Engine Mount with hardware • 10 oz Fuel Tank with Fuel Line • Wood Glue, Epoxy and CA (Cyanoacrylate - mostly Thin and some Medium) • 2mm Rubber Foam Tape (for wing mounting) • Throttle Cable • Covering • Round Toothpicks • Plastic Tie-Wraps • Thin Copper Wire • Pencil • Hobby Knife (X-Acto blades) • Long Straight Edge (ruler...) • Elastic (1 medium) • Balsa Stripper • Dremel Tool - Large Cutting Disks - 1⁄16"Drill Bit - 5⁄64" Drill Bit • Hobby Saw (fine tooth) • DU-BRO Z-Bender • Sanding Block • Bench Vise • Masking Tape • Strong Soldering Iron & Solder • Covering Iron Critical Terminology Note the terms used in this manual: “Dry-fit”— This always means to put pieces together without using any glue at all. “CA”—This is referring to CA glue (Cyanoacrylate) “Tack” — A drop of CA glue to lightly hold the position of 2 pieces. “Glue” — To completely bond noted pieces with your choice of adhesive (i.e. wood glue, epoxy, CA...) “Sheeting” — Use of wide 1⁄8" balsa or 1⁄16" balsa as specified. “Covering” — This always means the outer skin (i.e. Monokote, UltraCote, Silkspan, Solarfilm...). * What is important when choosing an engine for this kit, is the distance between the thrust washer and the carb. Some engines have a large, bulky carb that barely clears the prop path. To be sure of a good match, check to see if your engine has about 1⁄4" of space between the thrust washer and carb. Small engines may pose a problem with short distances between the head and the prop path. If you are going to purchase a new engine for this kit and want to be absolutely safe, build the nose of the plane and position it over the intended engine. A Word About Safety • The Tri-Pacer is a highly engineered kit that requires the modeler to follow exact instructions to complete the kit properly. Failure to follow the instructions provided may result in loss or damage to the kit or to persons and property. Take your time in building this kit. Attention to detail is required in completing each section. • Do not modify this kit beyond its designed specifications. Over stressing the kit in any way (i.e. too much power or too much weight), may result in unexpected behaviors when operating. This model kit can travel very fast; you must operate it with care for the sake of yourself and others. • Use quality components when installing radio equipment. Do not use damaged or modified servo/radio equipment. This may result in improper operation of this kit. • Always perform a radio check before operating the engine. Be sure that all radio equipment is in perfect operating condition and that cotter pin ends are opened before flying. • Note: As the manufacturer, we provide a high-quality product for modelers to build. Great consideration has been given to the safe operation of this kit when built properly. However, the modeler building this kit is completely responsible for the quality of the construction. By no means, implied or otherwise, is the manufacturer responsible for the safe construction and operation of this kit. Safe operation and the safe use of materials and tools is the responsibility of the builder. Tri-Pacer 1 Table of Contents Kit Contents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . II Mechanics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Shopping List. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . II Landing Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Tools/Aids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . II Firewall & Engine Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Critical Terminology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . II Engine Selection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 A Word About Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Tail Surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Table of Contents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Sheeting the Stabs and Rudder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Builders’ Options. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Sheeting the Elevator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Kit Options: “Standard” Kit or “All-Balsa” Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Assembling the Tail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Servo Arrangement Options. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Building the Nose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Pre-Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Creating the Plastic Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 The Wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Air Scoop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 The Wing Cage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Final Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Building the Wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Control Sticks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 The Spars. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Side Window Template . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Flaps and Ailerons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Windshield Template . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 2-Servo Central Config. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Sanding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Sheeting the Wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Sheeting the Top Center of the Wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Wing Mounting Bolts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Wing Struts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Cut Templates. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Fuselage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 The Main Formers of the Fuselage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Installing Floor Plates #2 and #3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Installing Floor Plate #1. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Installing Floor Plate #4. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Installing the Console . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Installing F4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Installing F5 and F6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Completing the Tail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Time to Glue... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 The Windshield Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Support Sticks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Sheeting the Nose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Assembling the Main Servo Box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Placement of the Main Servo Box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Framing the Lower Fuselage Cavity. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 2 Tri-Pacer Builders’ Options Kit Options: “Standard” Kit or “All-Balsa” Kit Servo Arrangement Options Each type of kit comes with three types of wood – Balsa, Poplar Ply (lighter) and Birch Ply (heavier). The difference between the two kits is the proportion of Balsa/Poplar Ply. 4-Servo Box Config: We have opted to make “4-Servo Box Config.” our standard (using our Servo Boxes installed ahead of each control surface). Instructions for building/placing the Servo Boxes is located below and on Plan Sheet 2. These Servo Box modules lock into place and can be accessed with the removal of a single screw. Modelers who wish to employ computer radio mixing will find this option very appealing. However, this option is not restricted to use with a computer radio. For non-computer radios, each Servo Box can be assembled in reverse orientation, allowing builders to employ “Y” connectors for both Aileron and Flap servos. Our “Standard” kit contains a larger portion of Poplar Plywood. Poplar Ply has the strength and durability of plywood, while remaining relatively light. Our “All-Balsa” version is predominately Balsa. This option allows for the use of CA glue in almost all areas of construction. It also reduces weight which will appeal to builders who wish to construct an electric version of this kit. Builders will be shipped the “Standard” kit unless they specifically request the “All-Balsa” kit. This manual is written to cover the “All-Balsa” version which requires slightly more instruction but will guide builders in the construction of either version of this kit. Builders will sometimes see written or pictorial references to Balsa where Poplar Ply is provided in “standard” kits. Servo Box Assembly To secure the Servo Box in the wing, glue a small piece of nylon contol rod into the trailing edge of the wing - as a secure screw mount. Flip these two parts to build a reversed servo arrangement. In-Wing 4 Servo Box Config. 2-Servo Central Config: An alternate servo arrangement is to mount the servos in the center of the wing. This option will appeal to those who wish to save weight and improve scale appearances but it will require additional hardware to complete the connections to the control surfaces. Instructions for this more involved arrangement are on pages 11 and 12. Note: Builders may choose to have a combination of two Servo Boxes for Aileron use, and one servo in the center of the wing’s Servo Tray for Flaps use. Tri-Pacer Trailing Edge Spar Hinge Aileron Horn Mount Aileron Surface Aileron Rib (AR) Wing Rib Clevis Control Horn 3 Pre-Assembly As seen on Plan Sheet 2, there are several pieces of the kit that need to be pre-assembled before building the Wing. Below is the list of parts that need to be pre-assembled. You will see these pieces in their full and complete state on the Plans and in diagrams in the manual. • Fuselage Formers (F2, F3, and F4) F2 (pieces A and B) F3 (pieces A and B) F4 (pieces A, B and C) • Fuselage Walls (pieces A, B and C) x2 Note: Do not glue all of Fuselage Wall A to Fuselage Wall B during pre-assembly. Only glue the back section of Fuselage Wall A to Fuselage Wall B. (The section to be glued is shown in bold on Plan Sheet 2) This is because Fuselage Wall A will be pulled in later to connect with the Fuselage Formers, and glued in its new position at that time. • Upper Tail Walls (pieces A and B) x2 • Window Deck (pieces A and B) • Tail Deck (pieces A and B) • Vertical Stab (pieces A and B) • Horizontal Stab (pieces A, B and C) • Rudder (pieces A and B) • Elevator (pieces A and B) x2 • Main Spars (pieces A and B) x2 • Wing Tips (pieces A and B) x2 IMPORTANT: In this manual, most references to glue is for CA type glue. However, Carpenters Glue can be used for the entire construction process if so desired. This has been tested and will yield fine results. A word of caution in building the horizontal and vertical tail surfaces: Glue both sides of the laser-cut sections - at the same time (after sheeting area are shaped), then stack large flat objects on top of the assembly to prevent warping. Wait overnight before handling. 4 Tri-Pacer The Wing Important: 1 2 Proceed with this Wing construction only after you have completed the pre-assembly of all divided parts– as illustrated on Plan Sheet 2. The Wing should be completely dry fit together, and checked for straightness and accuracy before any tacking or gluing is done. (Recall from page 2, Critical Terminology, the difference between "dry fit," "tack" and "glue.") The Wing Cage 1 Dry fit the Wing Bolt Plate into the leading edge of the Wing Spine. 2 Dry fit the Wing Servo Tray through the Wing Spine and slide it backwards on the Wing Spine into place. 3 4 Onto the back of the Wing Spine, dry fit the Rear Root Spar. Slide an Inner Rib up into the Rear Root Spar, and then dry fit its tab openings onto the tabs of the Wing Servo Tray and the Wing Bolt Plate. 5 Position the Wing Cage assembly on its end. Dry fit the Main Root Spar, sandwiched between the two Spar Doublers, onto the Wing Spine and Inner Ribs. Start by carefully inserting one Tri-Pacer Spar Doubler into the wide openings of the Wing Spine and the Inner Ribs. Beside it, dry fit the Main Root Spar, followed by the second Spar Doubler. 5 The Wing Building the Wing 1 Clamp the Wing Cage in a bench vise as shown (upside right and still only dry fit). 2 Dry fit one of the pre-assembled Main Spars between the ends of the two Spar Doublers, to mate with the Main Root Spar. You may want to slightly lift the Inner Rib to help the Main Spar make a snug connection with the Main Root Spar. Then push the Inner Rib back down into place. Glue the joint when straight. 3 Dry fit Rib A up into the Rear Root Spar and down into the Main Spar. 4 Rib B will share the opening with Rib A. Dry fit a Rib B up into the Rear Root Spar and down into the Main Spar. (See photo.) 5 Dry fit Ribs C, and Ribs D into the Main Spar. The first Rib D will share an opening with the last Rib C. 6 Dry fit Rib E into the Main Spar. Rib A Rib B 7 Cut four 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa sticks (the Spar Sticks) to length– to fit snugly between the Wing Spine and Rib F. (Keep all stick scraps for later use.) 8 a) Dry fit two of those 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa sticks along the top of the Main Spar, fitting them into the tab openings on the ribs. b) Dry fit the other two along the Main Spar on the underside of the Wing. 9 Now dry fit two Bellcrank Plates, one for the Aileron and one for the Flap, between the ribs as marked on the Main Spar. Make sure the two holes on each Bellcrank, are always closest to the trailing edge of the Wing. 6 Tri-Pacer The Wing 10 Dry fit the Rear Spar into the trailing edge openings on the ribs. The Rear Spar mates with the Rear Root Spar. By taping a spruce stick to the underside of the Rear Spar and Rear Root Spar, you will ensure their straight union. Tack the joint, remove the spruce stick and then glue thoroughly. 11 Dry fit Rib F onto the end of the Main Spar, directly beside Rib E. 12 Dry fit the Wing Tip Spar through Rib F and into both Rib E's. 13 Slide the pre-assembled Wing Tip into the Wing Tip Spar. It will plug into the tab openings on Rib F. 14 Dry fit the Upper and the Lower Wing Tip Ribs into the tab openings on the Wing Tip Spar. These Ribs also share the same tab opening on the Wing Tip. 15 To add strength to the Wing Tip, cut two short strips from a 1⁄8" balsa sheet (about 3⁄8" wide). These short strips will glue to the top of the Wing Tip, butting up against Rib F and the Upper Wing Tip Rib. (See photos.) 16 Repeat steps 2 to 15 for the other side of the Wing. 17 After all parts of the Wing are dry fit together, check for straightness. 18 Glue all joints in the Wing in a methodical way. 19 a) Dry fit the two Spine Former Braces into the back of the Rear Root Spar. b) Onto these Braces, dry fit the Spine Former. c) Glue these three pieces well. Tri-Pacer 7 The Wing The Spars 1 To install the Leading Edge Spar, strip off a 3⁄4" wide piece of 1⁄8" balsa. Dry fit this piece into the leading edge opening of the ribs along one side of the Wing. It will butt up against Rib F at one end, and be cut flush with the inner side of the Inner Rib at the other end. Glue in this Leading Edge Spar. 2 To install the Upper Stick Spar, dry fit a 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa stick into the upper leading edge openings of all ribs. Like the Leading Edge Spar, this Upper Stick Spar will butt up against Rib F at one end, and be cut flush with the inner side of the Inner Rib at the other end. Glue where it contacts each rib. 3 To install the Lower Stick Spar, dry fit a 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa stick into the lower trailing edge openings of all ribs. Again, it will butt up against Rib F at one end, and be flush with the inner side of the Inner Rib at the other end. Glue on each contact point. 4 To Install the Trailing Edge Spar, turn the Wing upside down and clamp it carefully, at an angle, along the Main Root Spar. Using leftover pieces of 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa sticks, fill in the trailing edge with two rows of sticks. Stagger the break joints. These two rows of sticks will butt up against Rib F at one end, and against Rib A at the other end. Glue thoroughly. 5 Repeat steps 1 to 4 for the other side of the Wing . Flaps and Ailerons 1 Locate the tiny Aileron and Flap Ribs (AR, FR, AE). There will be 22 altogether. The Aileron Ribs and Flap Ribs are very similar: the two Aileron End Ribs (AEs) are much shorter than the ARs & FRs. 2 Glue the two AEs into the last tab openings (where the Ailerons taper) making sure you are gluing to the top-side of the Aileron. (Be careful not to make two starboard or port side Ailerons.) 3 Glue the remaining 20 Aileron and Flap Ribs to the Ailerons and Flaps, again, to the top-sides of each. 8 Tri-Pacer The Wing 4 This step must be repeated on both Aileron Horn Mounts and on both Flap Horn Mounts a) Install and glue the Aileron and Flap Horn Mounts to the Ailerons and Flaps. They will fit snugly between the little ribs and fit flush with the leading edge of each Control Surface. b) Install a Control Horn into position on each Control Surface. c) Dremel off excess Control Horn screw thread 5 Refer to Plan Sheet 2 for Hinge locations. Carve out all 8 Hinge areas on the Flaps and Ailerons. Carve on the up-side of each lower Control Surface. This will allow the Hinges to mount flush with the top of the Control Surfaces. 6 7 Pull the cotter pins out of the 8 Hinges. Glue one side of each of the 8 Hinges into its recessed position on the Aileron/Flap. Be careful not to run CA into the Hinge Points. Only the Hinge Point should hang out past the Control Surface. Note: To stop CA from inadvertently getting into the Hinge Point, use a lubricant like petroleum jelly to coat the Hinge Point. 8 Cut and glue a 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa stick across the top of each Hinge (B). Measure each to fit snugly between the ribs and position each flush with the leading edge of the Control Surface. 9 A B For each Flap and each Aileron, cut two 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa sticks to fit all along the opening at the tops of the tiny Aileron and Flap Ribs (A). The sticks should be trimmed flush with the outside edges of the Flaps/Ailerons and cut to butt up against the Control Horn. Tri-Pacer 9 The Wing 10 Cut and glue a ⁄ "x ⁄ " balsa stick along the top of each 14 14 Aileron/Flap Horn Mount as shown. This will give extra strength to the Control Surface. 11 Pin the Hinge into the Control Surface using round toothpicks. Wick in Thin CA around base of each toothpick. When the CA has cured, clip off the tops. (You may need to sand off the toothpick ends on the underside of the Control Surface.) 12 Reassemble the Hinges with the cotter pins. For each Flap and each Aileron, place it in the position where it will be when attached to the Wing. Using a knife, carefully mark the underside of the Wing's trailing edge to show where each Hinge will go. 13 From the Wing's trailing edge, carve out a recessed area where each Hinge will be installed. (Use an extra Hinge to check for flushness with the surface of the trailing edge.) 14 Align each Control Surface's Hinge with the carved out locations. Pin the Hinges into the Wing with round toothpicks. When you are satisfied the Control Surface is perfectly straight and moves without binding, carefully tack the Hinge to the Wing. 15 Carefully remove the cotter pins from the Hinges, taking the Control Surfaces away for the final gluing. Wick in Thin CA at the base of each toothpick. When the glue has cured, clip off the toothpicks and sand them flush using a dremel tool. 16 For the Aileron section only, shave the trailing edge of the Wing to match the angle of the ribs. (F) 17 Reinstall the Control Surfaces and check for smooth and free operation. F 10 Tri-Pacer The Wing 2-Servo Central Config. H This section is for the modeler who is installing servos in the center of the wing in the Servo Tray. Extra hardware (ie. bellcranks, threaded rods, nylon sleeves, clevises and keepers) will be required, depending upon what configuration is chosen. If you are using Servo Boxes in the wings, you may skip this section, as it will not apply to your configuration. 1 Servos and Bellcranks a) Install the two Servos from the underside of the Wing. b) At this point you will need to widen some Bellcrank holes (5⁄64" drill-bit) and some Servo Arm holes (1⁄16" drill-bit). See Plan Sheet 2 to determine which holes will be used and, therefore, widened. (The Bellcrank holes are a little small for Clevises and Rods.) 2 Above: Aileron Servo on Left side of Tray Flap Control Rods a) Cut a 12" threaded rod to length to reach the bellcranks in the wing (see diagram on plan sheet 2) Z-bend the cut ends. b) Slide each Control Rod into the Wing. c) Onto each Rod, put a Clevis Keeper. d) Attach a Clevis to the end of each Rod, making sure each is threaded halfway down the threaded area. e) Attach the Clevises to the Flaps Servo. f) Insert the z-bent end of each Control Rod into a loose Bellcrank. See Plans for Bellcrank orientation. g) Install both loose Bellcranks (with attached Rods) onto the Flap Bellcrank Plates. (Install from below.) Note: 1- When you install the Bellcranks, make sure they are in the correct holes of the Plates. 2- Make sure the Bellcranks are properly assembled. (See Plan Sheet 2.) 3 Above: Flap Servo on Right side Aileron Control Rods a) From two 30" threaded rods, cut one to 207⁄8" for the left Aileron, and the other to 23" for the right Aileron. Z-bend the cut ends (measure and verify first). b) Slide a nylon Sleeve (71⁄2" long) onto each Aileron Control Rod before putting on a Clevis Keeper and a Clevis. c) The Sleeve for the Aileron Control Rod should be positioned where the Rod has gone above the Flap Bellcrank Plate. The Sleeve will fit snugly between the Plate and the openings of the two Ribs. Slide the sleeved-Rod into place. Push the sleeve forward so the Rib opening is pinching it slightly. Glue the Sleeve where it makes contact with the Plate and Ribs. d) Once the Sleeves are in place, connect the Clevises on the Aileron Control Rods to the enlarged hole on the Aileron Servo Arm. Again, modify one Clevis by breaking off the pinarm and leaving the arm with a hole to share a connection with the Clevis from the opposing Control Rod. See photo at (H) for which Clevis to modify and for overlapping layout on the Servo Arm. Tri-Pacer J 11 The Wing 4 Completing Both Flap and Aileron Control Rods a) Cut four 12" threaded rods down to 41⁄2". Keep the leftover wire for later use. b) Z-bend the cut-end of each of these Control Rods. c) Shoehorn each z-bent end into the enlarged opening on the Bellcranks. (You will have to turn the Bellcrank to gain clear access to the end hole.) d) Slide the Control Rods through the oval openings of the Rear Spar. (Turn the Bellcrank the other way for more room.) There should not be a Clevis on the end of the Rod when doing this. e) Slide a Clevis Keeper onto the threaded end of each 41⁄2" Control Rod. f) Spin a Clevis halfway down each threaded end. g) To connect the four Control Rods to the Control Surfaces, you will need to snip off the last two holes on each Control Horn. (See photo.) Trim off any excess plastic that sticks above the profile of the Control Surface using a dremel tool. h) Connect the Clevis to the remaining top hole. Note: Unlike the Ailerons, once both Flaps are connected, they should hang 40˚ down with the Flaps Servo Arm in the center of its throw range. i) For the Ailerons and Flaps to move without interference, the oval opening in the Rear Spar may have to be enlarged. Using a sharp knife, carve out the inside top of this oval opening. j) Also carve out a semi-circle from the sheeting at the trailing edge of the Wing above each Clevis. (See (J) in lowest photo on page 11.) 12 Tri-Pacer Sheeting the Wing 1 Leading Edge Support: a) Using a balsa stripper, strip off 1⁄4" wide scraps of 1⁄8" balsa . b) Cut these narrow strips of balsa to fit between the ribs at the very edge of the Leading Edge Spar. c) Glue these small strips all the way along both the top and bottom of the 2 Leading Edge Spar. d) With a knife, carve the forward edge of the small sticks to match the angle of the ribs. e) Repeat steps 1 a) to d) for the leading edge of the other Wing side. Bridge the leading edge of the Wing center with a piece of 1⁄4"x1⁄4" spruce stick. It should rest on the front of the Wing Spine and butt up against the balsa sticks from either Wing side. Cut and glue the stick into place. 3 a) Cut four pieces of 1⁄8" balsa to sit on either side of the Main Spine on top of the Wing Bolt Plate. (See photo.) b) Create two stacks of two. Glue each stack. c) Glue the stacks directly onto the Wing Bolt Plate as shown. These stacks will support the sheeting that will be on the center of the Wing. d) Lightly sand the stacked balsa to match the same slope as the Main Spine and Inner Ribs. Keep in mind that the built up stacks have to be low enough that the 1⁄16" sheeting (that will go above it) will match the sheeting on either Wing side. Before Sanding Tri-Pacer After Sanding 13 Sheeting the Wing 5 With a straight edge and pencil, mark, then cut four 6"x48" pieces of 1⁄16" sheeting down to 41⁄2" wide. Cut each 41⁄2" wide strip down to 271⁄8" long. When you have 4 sheets of 271⁄8"X41⁄2" sheeting, you are ready to cover the Wing. Keep the scraps close by; you will need them soon. 6 a) Lay the first piece of sheeting along the top of the Main Spar. The sheet should not cover the Main Spar, but should cover the 1⁄4"x1⁄4" stick forward of it. (See photo.) b) Glue along this 1⁄4"x1⁄4" stick, pressing the sheet down on to it. c) Do this for the other top Wing side as well. 7 a) Stand the Wing up on its end– Wing tip against the floor. (It is very important that the sheeting is not glued to the ribs when the Wing is flexing.) b) From the inside of the Wing, run some thin CA along the ribs/sheeting joint. Do not glue near the leading edge yet. 8 From the front of the Wing, apply glue to the leading edge area while pinching the sheeting against the leading edge - a section at a time. 9 Repeat steps 3 to 5 for the underside of the Wing. 10 a) At the leading edge of the Wing, sand the sheeting back to the Leading Edge Spar. b) From the leftover long sections of 1⁄16" sheeting, cut two, long, 3⁄8" wide strips. c) With the leading edge now flat, tape on one strip. d) Glue it on with Thin CA. e) Once the CA has cured, sand the balsa strip to shape the leading edge of the Wing to a round profile. Use a long sanding block for best results. f) Repeat this leading edge treatment for the other Wing side. 11 Sheeting the Trailing Edge: From the leftover sections of ⁄ 1 16" sheeting, cut two long strips, each 3⁄4" wide. These long strips will be divided, and will be glued onto the Rear Spar along the topside of the Wing. One piece will run from the first Rib D to Rib F. The second piece will run from Rib B to the last Rib C. (ie: in front of the flaps & ailerons) a) To correctly position the sheeting on the Aileron side, deflect the Aileron all the way up. Place the strip of sheeting on the Rear Spar so that there is a small gap between the Aileron and the sheeting. (See photo.) Tack the piece at both ends. b) For the sheeting on the Flaps side, the strip will sit lower on the ribs, being flush with the ends of the ribs. c) Repeat this Trailing Edge Sheeting for the other Wing end. d) Glue thoroughly when all Trailing Edge Sheeting is correctly placed. e) Repeat this capping process for the underside trailing edge of both wings. 14 Tri-Pacer Sheeting the Wing 12 a) For the Flaps to work freely, a notch may have to be carved out of the top sheeting as discussed earlier. b) Also, to allow full downward deflection for both Ailerons and Flaps, a small notch will need to be cut out of the bottom trailing edge stock below each Clevis. 13 Strip off ⁄ " wide sections of ⁄ 38 1 16" sheeting. These shorts cap- strips will be glued along the top and bottom of each rib between the trailing edge sheeting and the large sheeted area forward of the Main Spar. 14 Sheet the underside of the Wing to cover from the Inner Rib to Rib B. (See photo) The top-side sheeting will later meet this at the trailing edge. Tri-Pacer 15 Sheeting the Wing 15 Under the Wing are areas that need reinforcing. Use scraps of balsa from the 1⁄8" laser-cut sheets. (i.e. from the large pieces of the side windows) Cut and glue two sections of balsa to fill the gap between the Inner Rib and Rib A. See (X) on photo. There is a smaller gap between the Inner Rib and the Spine Former Brace. See (Y) on photo. With the Wing upside down, glue pieces to the sheeting recently installed in Step 11. Y X Do not sheet the Top Center of the wing until you have set-up your radio & servos. (It would be much easier to make the large adjustments first and minor adjustments later.) Sheeting the Top Center of the Wing 1 Cut and position a section of sheeting to go from the Main Root Spar to the front of the Wing Spine. The grain for this sheeting should go spanwise. Once sheeting fits snugly, glue from the underside with Thin CA. 2 a) Cut sections of 1⁄16" sheeting to sheet the top of the Wing Cage between the two Inner Ribs from the Main Root Spar to the Spine Former. The grain should go crosswise. Sheet one side of the Main Spine and then sheet the other. 3 Trim off any sheeting that hangs past the Spine Former and sand smooth. 4 To sheet the two final openings on the top of the Wing Cage, cut two pieces of sheeting. Width: from the Inner Rib to Rib A. Length: from the Main Spar to the Spine Former. Glue these in place and trim to fit the space. Sand smooth. 16 Tri-Pacer Fuselage Note: Proceed with the Fuselage construction only after you have completed the pre-assembly of all divided parts– as illustrated on Plan Sheet 2. The Main Formers of the Fuselage 1 2 Lay one pre-assembled Fuselage Wall on a flat surface. Dry fit the pre-assembled Fuselage Former, F3, into the third set of tab openings on the Fuselage Wall. Support this piece while positioning the plywood Inner Sidewall. This Inner Sidewall lies on the inside of the Fuselage Wall. Its back tab fits into F3 and its other tab openings should be aligned with the tab openings on the Fuselage Wall. 3 Use the Servo Tray as a square to be sure F3 is standing perpendicular to the Fuselage Wall. When it is, tack the tab joints of F3 and the Inner Sidewall/Fuselage Wall. 4 Dry fit the pre-assembled Fuselage Former, F2, into the second set of tab openings on the Fuselage Wall. Again, use the Servo Tray as a square to be sure F2 is standing perpendicular to the surface. When it is, tack the tab joints of F2 and the Inner Sidewall/Fuselage Wall. 5 Dry fit Fuselage Former, F1, into the first set of tab openings on the Fuselage Wall. This will be glued once both sides are aligned. 6 Dry fit the remaining Inner Sidewall. On top of this Inner Sidewall, dry fit the remaining Fuselage Wall. Make sure the tabs of F3 and F2 are in place and then tack those joints. Leave the tabs of F1 free from the Fuselage Wall for now. Reminder: Do not glue Fuselage Wall "A" (the window section) to the sides of F2 and F3. This is done later. Tri-Pacer 17 Fuselage Installing Floor Plates #2 and #3 1 At the bottom of the Fuselage, dry fit Floor Plate #2 between the Fuselage Walls and against F2. Make sure it is flush with the bottom edges of the Fuselage Walls. When it is, glue it in place with wood glue. 2 Dry fit Floor Plate #3 between Floor Plate #2 and F3. It should make contact on all sides. Make sure it’s flush with the bottom edges of the Fuselage Walls and F3. When it is, glue it in place with wood glue. #2 Installing Floor Plate #1 1 Once Floor Plates #2 and #3 are in, dry fit the (still loose) sides of F1 into the tab openings of the Fuselage Walls. Tack those two joints on both Fuselage Walls. (Arrows) 2 Dry fit Floor Plate #1 between F1 and F2. (No photo.) It should make contact on all four sides and should be flush with the bottom edges of the Formers and Fuselage Walls. Glue in place with wood glue. #2 #3 Installing Floor Plate #4 1 Dry fit Floor Plate #4 flush against F3 and the bottom of the Fuselage Walls. 2 Use a long piece of masking tape, or a clamp, to hold the Fuselage Walls tight against Floor Plate #4. 3 Thoroughly glue Floor Plate #4 all along its three joints with wood glue. 4 Turn the Fuselage upside right and glue the same joints from the inside, again with wood glue. Do not remove the tape/clamp until the glue has completely cured. 18 #4 Tri-Pacer Fuselage Installing the Console 1 Locate a 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa stick, the Console and the Console Brace. Lay the stick across the bottom of the Console and dry fit the Console Brace onto the Console. (The Console Brace will fit over the stick.) Trim the stick to the same width as the Console. 2 Use the Servo Tray as a square once again as you make sure the Console Brace is perpendicular to the Console. Then glue the Console Brace and the stick to the Console. 3 With the Fuselage upright, dry fit the Console Brace into the tab opening of F1. The tabs on the bottom of the Console slide into tab openings on F2, at an angle. 4 Making sure the Console has full contact all the way along F2, glue the Console/F2 joint and glue the Console Brace/F1 joint. Installing F4 1 Before installing the pre-assembled F4, it must have four reinforcement sticks cut and glued to it in the positions shown on the photo. (Note the use of one spruce stick. Spruce is needed since the Wing Spine will hook on there. ) You can dry fit the Tail Deck if you want to make sure the sticks are positioned correctly before gluing. Tri-Pacer Spruce 19 Fuselage 2 The pre-assembled Window Deck must be dry fit into place before F4 is put in. Therefore, dry fit the Window Deck into the tab openings of F3. 3 Dry fit F4 onto the rear tabs of the Window Deck and into the tab openings on the Fuselage Walls. 4 Apply pressure to make sure F4 has full contact with the Fuselage Walls. Glue the tabs of F4 and those of the Window Deck. Glue all along the F4/Fuselage Wall joints. 5 With the Fuselage upside right, glue the Window Deck all along its joints with F3, F4 and the Fuselage Walls. Installing F5 and F6 1 Dry fit the pre-assembled Tail Deck into the tab openings on the back side of F4. 2 3 Dry fit F5 onto the tabs at the rear of the Tail Deck. Dry fit the Fuselage Walls onto the tabs of F5. Use an elastic to hold this position. 4 5 Dry fit F6, plugging its tabs into the Fuselage Walls. Check the ends of the Side Walls. Make sure the ends match up flush with each other. When they do, glue the tabs of F5 and of F6 where they join the Fuselage Walls. Do not glue the Tail Deck or any of its tabs yet. Completing the Tail 1 2 Dry fit both Upper Tail Walls onto the F4 and F5 tabs. Glue the tabs of the Tail Deck (at F4 and F5) and where it contacts the Fuselage Walls. 3 4 Dry fit the Lower Tail Walls onto the F4 and F5 tabs. Tape together the ends of the Upper and Lower Tail Walls and the ends of the Fuselage Walls. 5 With all the Walls firmly against the Formers, thoroughly glue F6, F5 and F4 to the Walls. 6 20 When glue has cured, remove the elastic and masking tape. Tri-Pacer Fuselage 7 Dry fit the Tail Plate into position. (You will likely need to spread apart the ends of the Upper Tail Wall in order to fit in the Tail Plate.) Make sure the Plate is flush with the top of F5 and the top edge of the Upper Tail Walls. 8 Glue all around the Tail Plate, starting from the tail-end, working forward. 9 Dry fit the Tail Spine into the top tab openings of F4 and F5. Glue in place. Time to Glue... 1 a) Press the upper part of the Fuselage Wall "A" (the window section) against the top of Formers F2 and F3. b) Glue only F3 where it contacts this window section. c) Before gluing the upper part of F2 to the window section, you will need to measure the distance between F2 and F4. This distance is important for the Wing to fit properly. Measure from the top corner of F4 to the top corner of F2. It should be no less than 121⁄8" and no more than 123⁄16". If it is the right distance, press the window section firmly against F2 and glue along that joint. If the opening for the Wing is a bit snug, sand the spruce stick at the front of the Wing Cage. If it is too loose, add a strip of 1⁄16" balsa to the face of that same stick. 2 Press the upper Fuselage Wall, (A), flush with the lower part of the Fuselage Wall, (B), and glue along this joint. Note: The tab that locks the upper (A) and lower (B) Fuselage Walls together at the F3 position, will likely protrude a bit because of the angle change. It should be sanded flush when the glue has thoroughly cured. (Arrows) 3 At this point, take time to be sure that you have plenty of glue securing each of the Formers (F1 to F6) to the Walls. Tri-Pacer 21 Fuselage The Windshield Assembly 1 Dry fit both Window Corners onto Bolt Mounting Plate #1 as shown. 3 4 5 2 Glue Bolt Mounting Plate #2 under Bolt Mounting Plate #1 making sure the holes line up. Dry fit the Window Corner assembly on top of F2. Dry fit the Windshield Top Plate onto the Window Corners. Glue well the entire windshield assembly and its joints with the Fuselage with wood glue. 6 Once this assembly has cured, cut a section of 1⁄4"x1⁄4" spruce stick to fit in front of the Windshield Top Plate. It should be flush with the top of this Plate. Glue in place with wood glue. Support Sticks Note: CA does not adhere well to plywood. Use wood glue. 1 Cut and glue a 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa stick to the back of F3. It should fit snugly between the Fuselage Walls and should sit clear of the tab opening in the top center of F3. (Looking at the Fuselage Wall, it sits no higher than the top of the window opening.) 2 a) Cut a 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa stick to fit snugly between F3 and F4. It will run along the inside and be flush with the top of the Fuselage Wall/Upper Tail Wall. b) Glue the stick where it makes contact with these Walls and at each end of the stick. c) Take time to glue the top of the Fuselage Wall to the Upper Tail Wall at the small point where they overlap. See (A) on photo. d) Repeat step 2 a), b) and c) for the opposite Fuselage Wall/Upper Tail Wall. 22 A Tri-Pacer Fuselage 3 You will be doing almost the same procedure to the Lower Tail Wall/Fuselage Wall as you did to the top in step 2. a) Cut a 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa stick to fit snugly between F3 and F4. It will run along the inside of the Fuselage Wall/Lower Tail Wall. Glue the stick where it makes contact with these Walls and at each end of the stick. b) Glue the bottom of the Fuselage Wall to the Lower Tail Wall at the small point where they overlap. (Arrow) 4 Cut and glue two 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa sticks to the front and back of F3’s bottom where F3 contacts Floor Plates #3 and #4. (Arrows) Lengths: the forward stick should fit snugly between the Fuselage Walls and the rear stick should fit snugly between the two support sticks you just installed in step 3. 5 Cut and glue 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa sticks around the rest of the perimeter of the center floor (Floor Plates #2 and #3). 6 Cut and glue two 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa sticks to fit snugly between Bolt Mounting Plate #1 and F3. Each will run along the inside of the Fuselage Wall and be flush with the top of the Fuselage Wall. Tri-Pacer 23 Fuselage 7 Cut and glue two 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa sticks to fit snugly between the Upper Tail Walls. The first stick will slide up into the forward opening on the Tail Spine and the second stick will slide up into the rear opening on the Tail Spine. Glue this section well. 8 With a balsa stripper, strip off two 3⁄4" wide sections of 1⁄8" balsa– long enough to fit between F4 and F5. Glue these strips along the bottom of the Lower Tail Wall. They are needed to provide support for the cross bracing. 9 B Lower Tail Wall Cross Bracing: Cut three 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa sticks to bridge between the bottom of the Lower Tail Walls. Lengths: a) Cut the first stick to 67⁄8" and glue it in place 23⁄4" back from the bottom stick of F4. (This will pull the Lower Tail Wall in a little.) b) Cut the second stick to 55⁄8"and glue it in place 31⁄4" behind the first stick. c) Cut the third stick to 41⁄8" and glue it in place 31⁄4" behind the second stick. Note: When cutting each stick, cut the ends at an angle that best matches the point of contact. 10 Now glue the Fuselage Walls to both the Upper and Lower Tail Walls where they make contact. (B) 24 Tri-Pacer Fuselage 11 Cut and glue two 3" long sections of spruce stick. Each will be glued in the forward corner of F1 and the Fuselage Wall. (The plastic engine Cowl will screw into them.) 12 Cut and glue two ⁄ "x ⁄ " sticks of balsa between F1 and each 14 14 top corner of the Console. (Arrows) 13 a) Cut two 1" wide sections of ⁄ " balsa to 4 ⁄ " long. 18 18 b) Shape the balsa into a right-angled triangle with a bulge on the angled side. This will be used to fill the area between the Upper Tail Wall and the inside of the Fuselage Wall (window section). Test the piece frequently to check its fit. c) Glue each piece against the front edge of the Upper Tail Wall, not beside. Tri-Pacer 25 Fuselage 14 a) Cut two sections of 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa. Each will fit along the back of F2 from the Floor Plate to the top of the small area between the Window Corner and the Fuselage Wall. (Arrow) b) Shave the top of the stick for a snug fit. c) When well-shaped, glue in place with wood glue. d) Apply wood glue to the area under the Bolt Mounting Plate as well. This area needs to be strong in order to take the load from the Wing and the engine’s vibration. 15 Reinforcement is needed for the backside of F3. Cut and glue four more sticks. Both will be installed vertically. Two will fit above, and two below, the Window Deck as shown. 16 Glue in a short ⁄ "x ⁄ " balsa stick above each back window 14 14 as shown at (A). A 26 Tri-Pacer Fuselage Sheeting the Nose 1 The Nose needs to be sheeted with 1⁄8" sheeting. Wrap a piece of balsa over the Nose starting from the top edge of the Fuselage Wall. (You will have to shape the sheeting to fit close to the window post (bottom of Fuselage Wall A) Be sure the sheeting overhangs on either side. 2 3 Glue thoroughly around the sheeting. With a sharp knife, carefully trim off the overhang. Assembling the Main Servo Box 1 The Main Servo Box has only 4 parts. The parts are fairly simple, and easily lock together. Assemble the three sides to the top tray. All three sides will attach flush to the tray. Note: Observe the manner in which the receiver is packed into its location (wrapped in foam and secured with a tiewrap.) 2 Once all four parts are glued, turn the Main Servo Box upside down. Add two strips of scrap 1⁄8" balsa to the back and front of the Servo Box as shown. This gives the glue something to grab onto when attaching the Servo Box to Floor Plates #3 and #4. Note: Observe the method in which the battery and foam is packed under the Main Servo Tray. Placement of the Main Servo Box 1 Insert the Main Servo Box into the Fuselage. It rests on either side of F3, with the tab openings (on the lower sides of the Servo Box) fitting over F3. (See Plan Sheet 1) 2 Use epoxy to glue the Servo Box to Floor Plates #3 and #4. Tri-Pacer 27 Fuselage Framing the Lower Fuselage Cavity 1 On the underside of the Fuselage, cut and glue three 1⁄4"x1⁄4" balsa sticks around Floor Plate #2, as shown in the photo (A). 2 A On the underside of the Fuselage, cut and glue three 3⁄8"x3⁄8" B balsa sticks around Floor Plate #1 as shown in the photo (B). 3 Trim the side-sticks to create a gradual slope from the forward end of the 3⁄8"x3⁄8" stick to the rear end of the 1⁄4"x1⁄4" stick. (See Plan Sheet 1, side-view.) 4 Sand the outside edge of the side-sticks to a round profile as shown in photo (C). C 28 Tri-Pacer Mechanics Landing Gear 1 You will use the nylon Landing Gear Straps to attach the Landing Gear to the underside of the Fuselage. Instead of the Flat-Head Screws that are provided with the nylon Landing Gear Straps, use the Hex-Head Tapping Screws for the installation. Important: Save the eight Flat-Head Screws for the windshield installation later.) 2 3 Locate both pre-bent Landing Gear Wires. Install the larger of the two Wires using the nylon Landing Gear Straps and Hex-Head Tapping Screws. They mount into the holes found on Floor Plate #4. 4 At the same time as you install the smaller Landing Gear Wire, you will also be installing the Hinges to mount the Wing Struts. Pass the Hex-Head Tapping screws through the holes of the Landing Gear Straps, the holes of the Hinge and then into the holes found on Floor Plate #3. (See photo.) Main Gear Layout Tri-Pacer 29 Mechanics 5 Locate two 71⁄2" pieces of control rod (leftover from connecting the Aileron/Flaps). From this scrap, cut four pieces, each 3" long. 6 Bend each piece to match the angle made by the union of the larger and smaller Landing Gear. See Plan Sheet 1. 7 Solder two pieces of the bent rod together, side by side, as shown in the photo. 8 Repeat step 7 for the remaining two pieces of bent rod. 9 Sand the ends of the Landing Gear Wires where they will unite with the soldered wires. 10 Uniting the two Landing Gear Wires: Tightly wind thin copper wire around the soldered, bent rods and the Landing Gear Wires, securing them together. See photo and Plan Sheet 1. 11 Solder the copper wire to the Landing Gear/bent rods. 12 Fill the opening between the two wires by shaping a piece of 1⁄8" balsa. This section is to be covered with cloth or plastic covering. 13 Repeat steps 9 to 12 for the other side. 30 Tri-Pacer Mechanics Firewall & Engine Installation 1 Match the two Firewall sides together (back to back, with the markings on the outside), the two Nose Gear Plates together and the two sets of two Nose Gear Arms together. 2 a) Glue with Epoxy (doubled) Nose Gear Arm onto one side of the (doubled) Nose Gear Plate. b) Repeat for the other (doubled) Nose Gear Arm. 3 Dry fit this assembly into the (doubled) Firewall. (The Nose Gear Arms slide in, and, when pushed upward, lock.) Use Epoxy glue to join all parts 4 Glue the whole assembly well with Epoxy glue. (Later this assembly will be coated with epoxy for sealing.) See notes on Engine Selection (page 32) 5 Use two rows of 3⁄8" square stock to build up a Balsa Box around the back of the Firewall. Note: The distance from F1 to your engine’s Thrust Washer should be 6". By building up or trimming down the Balsa Box, you can adjust how far away the Firewall is from the end of the nose. 6 Install your Engine Mounts on the Firewall. The Thrust Line of your Engine should match the center of the Firewall grid. 7 With the Firewall assembly sitting flat on a work surface (facing up), position your Engine in the Mounts and measure the distance from the Thrust Washer to the work surface. Adjust the location of the Engine to allow a 6" distance from the Thrust Washer to the work surface. 8 If the Engine Mount does not allow the Engine to reach the 6" distance, add or remove balsa from the Balsa Box behind the Firewall. 9 Using wood glue, glue the Firewall assembly to the face of F1. The Balsa Box behind the Firewall should match the alignment marks on F1. Tri-Pacer 31 Mechanics 10 Once the Balsa Box has cured, install the Nose Gear Hardware as seen in photo using the pre-cut holes on the (doubled) Nose Gear Plate. 11 Position your Engine in the Mounts and mark the location of the Throttle Cable on the front of the Firewall. 12 Drill a hole for the Throttle Cable and remove your Engine Mounts from the Firewall. 13 Using epoxy, coat the Firewall, Nose Gear Assembly and the forward face of F1 to fuel-proof. Note: Be careful not to plug the holes for the Throttle Cable, Fuel Lines and slots for the Cowl Arms. 14 Once epoxy has hardened, re-install your Engine Mounts. Engine Selection Review from Page 2 What is important when choosing an engine for this kit, is the distance between the thrust washer and the carb. Some engines have a large, bulky carb that barely clears the prop path. To be sure of a good match, check to see if your engine has about 1⁄4" of space between the thrust washer and carb. Small engines may pose a problem with short distances between the head and the prop path. If you are going to purchase a new engine for this kit and want to be absolutely safe, build the nose of the plane and position it over the intended engine. 32 Tri-Pacer Tail Surfaces Notes: 1. Use only CA or Epoxy glue for sheeting the tail surfaces. 2. Build these tail pieces on a flat surface. Sheeting the Stabs and Rudder 1 Lay the Horizontal Stab on a section of 1⁄16" sheeting with the sheeting's grain going opposite the grain of the laser-cut center. 2 Apply Thin CA to the inside corner of each opening as well as all along its perimeter. 3 Trim around the outside of the Stab. Keep the scraps of sheeting; you will need them later. 4 Locate sheeting for the top side of the Stab. This time use the thicker, slower to cure, Medium CA. Draw a line of glue along the Stab where it will contact the top sheeting. 5 6 7 Trim off the excess sheeting. When the glue has thoroughly cured, sand edges to round. Use this method of construction, steps 1 to 6, to laminate the Vertical Stab and the Rudder as well. Note: Because the Elevator contains a wire, there are a few considerations for its sheeting, as the next section explains. Tri-Pacer 33 Tail Surfaces Sheeting the Elevator 1 Lay one side of the Elevator on the 1⁄16" sheeting. Use Thin CA or Epoxy to glue its insides and perimeter. 2 When cutting around the Elevator, you must not cut away the sheeting that would otherwise cover the wire. Note where the wire will go at (A). If you draw your knife from the inside corner of the Elevator, straight along the long side to the end, this should leave the appropriate amount of sheeting intact. This sheeting will be covering the wire once it is installed. Sheet only the bottom half of the Elevator with CA or EPOXY. 3 Repeat steps 1 and 2 to sheet the remaining side of the Elevator. 4 A Bend the 1⁄8" piano wire (81⁄2" - provided) in a vise to the shape shown on Plan Sheet 1. The space between the two perpendicular ends, should be 51⁄4". 5 6 Sand the piano wire to help glue adhere to it. Add epoxy glue to the wire cavities in the Elevator. Place the bent wire into the wire opening. (Make sure the two halves of the Elevator are in line with each other.) 7 Sheet the top side of each Elevator using Medium CA, making sure the wire is covered with sheeting. 8 Wait until the glue has cured before trimming and sanding. Assembling the Tail 1 Insert the Vertical Stab into the Tail Plate as shown. Make sure the bottom of the Vertical Stab is in line with the bottom of the Lower Tail Walls. Then tilt the Stab down so that the forward end contacts the Tail Spine. 34 Tri-Pacer Tail Surfaces 2 At the rear of the Tail, you will see the Horizontal Stab opening. The Tail Plate needs to be trimmed to the same angle as the opening in the Upper Tail Wall. This is to let the Horizontal Stab through. Do this carefully for both sides of the Tail Plate. 3 Slide the Horizontal Stab into the opening of the Vertical 4 Stab and the opening on the Upper Tail Walls/Tail Plate. The Horizontal Stab should slide forward to the end of the open slot on the Upper Tail Walls. The final assembly should look as shown in the photo. 5 To attach the Elevator and the Rudder to the Stabs, locate preforming the final install. 7 seven CA Hinges. 6 Use a knife to open up slots on the Stabs, Rudder and Elevator, Insert each CA Hinge into a slot and drill a hole through the surface and the CA Hinge. 8 in the locations shown on Plan Sheet 1. Pin the CA Hinge with a round toothpick and glue. Trim the toothpick off once glue has cured. 9 Tri-Pacer Thoroughly glue all contact joints with wood glue when Repeat steps 7 and 8 for all CA Hinge locations. 35 Building the Nose Important: Pre-assemble N2 to N5. Parts are shown on pages 50 and 51 in the manual. 1 In order, stack the laser-cut 1⁄4" balsa Nose parts, N1 to N5 on top of the plywood Cowl Plate. To keep parts in line, use a balsa stick inserted into the square hole of the plywood Cowl Plate and first four pieces of balsa, N5 to N2. 1⁄4"x1⁄4" 2 3 Cut the 1⁄4"x1⁄4" stick flush with the Cowl Plate. Using Thin CA, thoroughly glue all layers together A (except N1). 4 a) Carefully position N1 so that the Intake Openings match up with the previous balsa layers. See (A) in the photo. b) Glue on this last piece. 5 Using a sanding block, sand the layers of balsa down to the dark seams. See photo. (If you sand too much, the dark seams will disappear.) 6 a) Dry fit the Cowl Arms and use them to center the Nose , Support Block on the Cowl Plate. Remove them before you glue on the Nose Support Block. b) Glue on the Nose Support Block. It goes below the cut balsa stick – centered and flush with the lowest point of the Cowl Plate. 7 Install your Engine on the Engine Mounts. A Reminder: the Thrust Washer must be 6" away from F1. Note: You may seal the wood of the Nose and paint it. Alternatively, you may cover the Nose with UltraCote/Monokote as shown. If the starboard Cowl Arm interferes with the Engine muffler, use the Alternate Cowl Arm provided. It is shaped to provide more room if needed. 8 Slide both Cowl Arms through the slots on the Firewall. They should lock into the openings of F1, behind the Firewall. DO NOT GLUE. 9 Dry fit the sanded Nose on the Cowl Arm ends. 10 Check: a) If the Thrust Washer does not protrude past the Nose by 1⁄16", sand the Nose to gain clearance. b) If the Nose interferes with the Engine, you may shave parts of the Nose to rectify this. 11 Glue the Cowl Plate to the ends of the Cowl Arms. Do not glue the Cowl Arms into the Firewall. This needs to remain free for maintenance. 36 Tri-Pacer Building the Nose Creating the Plastic Cowl 1 Tape the Cowl cut-template (from pages 52-53) over the provided white plastic (shiny side up) . 2 Trace the Cowl outline with an X-acto knife and remove excess plastic. Note: If you have a tall 4-stroke Engine, it would be advisable, at this point, to temporarily remove the valve covers on the Engine before proceeding. (This will give you more room for Cowl installation.) If you are using a 2-stroke Engine, it is likely you will not have this problem. 3 Apply tape over the forward and rear section of the Cowl and position the Cowl along the top of F1 and over the Nose as shown in the photo. 4 Use masking tape to secure the Cowl to the Fuselage evenly. B 5 a) Once the Cowl is positioned, use an X-acto knife to pierce an opening through the plastic Cowl and into the lower side of the Fuselage. This is for the mounting screw. This position is indicated on Plan Sheet 1 as “Cowl fastener point”. The mounting screw should go through the Fuselage Wall and into the spruce stick in the forward corner of F1/Fuselage Wall. b) Install a Hex-Head Tapping Screw into this opening. (B) c) Repeat a) and b) for the other side. Tri-Pacer B 37 Building the Nose 6 Turn the Fuselage upside down. Note where the forward lower Cowl tips overlap. At the center of this point, use a knife to pierce a hole through the Cowl tips and into the Nose Support Block. Install a Hex-Headed Tapping Screw, as shown in the photo. 7 If you are using a long 4-stroke engine that required the removal of the valve covers, you will have to carve an opening in the Cowl to allow clearance for the valve covers. This can be done by observing the position of the valve cover through the Air Intake Hole piercing the plastic Cowl and then carving a small opening. Widen only a bit at a time until a perfect shape is made. Air Scoop 1 Locate the laser-cut parts for the Air Scoop labeled “C1” to “C4”. There are two other plywood parts; one is very thin and unlabeled while the other is labeled “CX”. 2 Align each piece (except the thin plywood curve) so that the top of the inside curves are flush with each other. (Arrow) Make sure the parts are evenly centered by observing the corners. 3 Glue pieces in order (see page 49) – C1 to C4 plus CX, at the corners. (CX goes behind C4.) 38 Tri-Pacer Building the Nose 4 The collection of parts should look like this: 5 With a sanding block, sand the top corners enough to give them an even top from “C1” to “CX”. Do not sand too much. Do not change the shape of part “C1”. 6 Cut two chunks of scrap 1⁄4" balsa from the laser-cut sheet that the Air Scoop parts came from. Size: Cut the scraps to cover the Air Scoop corners, having lots of overhang as shown below. 7 Glue these scraps of balsa to the corners. 9 Glue the thin plywood curved piece to the face of piece “C1”, making sure it matches in the center. 10 Glue all parts of the Air Scoop thoroughly. Tri-Pacer 8 Shave the balsa scraps to roughly match the profile of the Air Scoop as shown. Sand the front and rear ends of the scraps flush with the face of piece “C1” and “CX”. 11 Sand the outer shape of the Air Scoop down to the dark seams - as was done for the Nose. (Sand the edge of the thin plywood piece to match.) 39 Building the Nose 12 There are a few sections at the back of the Air Scoop that need to be removed to gain clearance around the Nose Gear. 13 Using a small hobby saw, cut through the lines at the back of part “CX”. Once the center portion is removed, cut away the center of section “C4” using a knife. 14 Locate these six parts: two "NX" parts, two "NX3" parts and two smaller plywood inserts. 16 Using small clamps, clamp the glued NX parts to the side of each Nose Gear Arm. 15 Glue each "NX" to the side of an "NX3" as shown. 17 Position the Air Scoop evenly against the two NX parts. Use Thin CA to glue the NX parts to the Air Scoop. Once cured, release the clamps and remove the new assembly. 40 18 Use wood glue on the joints of the Air Scoop to strengthen the assembly. Tri-Pacer Building the Nose 19 Cut and glue a scrap of ⁄ " balsa to the side of the NX parts. 18 Sand the NX parts to follow the smooth round profile of the Air Scoop. 20 Place the small plywood inserts into the slots of the NX parts and position the Air Scoop over the Nose Gear Assembly, as before. 21 Slide the Air Scoop forward to match its scale position. 22 Angle the Air Scoop up so that it evenly contacts the under side of the plastic Cowl. 23 Pull the plywood inserts partly out of each NX part. Clamp the plywood inserts against the Nose Gear Arms and gently slide the Air Scoop out of the way. (Try not to move the position of the plywood inserts.) 24 Glue the plywood inserts with CA. 25 Once the glue has cured, install the Air Scoop on its tracks. Set the Air Scoop at the scale depth shown on Plan Sheet 1 and secure the Air Scoop with a screw, or other piece of hardware, on the side. Sanding Now is a good time to visit our sanding section on page 46. The instructions for sanding cannot be done at one time, but rather as you go. So read about sanding at this point before you cover the Fuselage. (Page 46) Tri-Pacer 41 Final Assembly Control Sticks 1 Locate the two remaining 71⁄2" long pieces of control rod (leftover from the Ailerons/Flaps construction). Use a Zbender, or vice grips to bend one end of each rod to 90˚. About 1⁄4" of bent rod should be plenty. 2 3 Cut two 161⁄2" lengths from a 3⁄8"x3⁄8" balsa sticks. Into the end of one 161⁄2" stick, carve a 21⁄2" narrow channel into its side. (1⁄16" deep is all that is necessary.) 4 Drill a hole 1⁄4" deep, at the end of the carved channel. (Arrow) 5 Place one bent steel rod into the hole and channel of the Control Stick. 6 Covering will be used to secure the position of the bent steel rod. Cut yourself a section of covering about 3" wide and 5" long. 7 Using a covering iron, tack one end of the covering to the side of the stick's end. Wrap the covering around the stick. Turn your iron to MAX, and apply heat to each side of the covering. This will tighten it up. 8 Flow Thin CA down the rod, into the channel. 9 Repeat steps 3 to 8 for one end of the second ⁄ "x ⁄ " stick. 10 For the opposite end of each control stick, repeat steps 3 and 38 38 4 to create a channel and a hole (same surface of the stick as the other end's channel/hole.) 11 Use a 12" threaded rod for this end of the stick. (Do not cut.) Bend the non-threaded end into a 90˚angle. 12 Insert the bent end into the drilled hole and channel. 13 Use covering to secure the rod as was done at the other end. 14 Repeat steps 11 to 13 for another 12" threaded rod and the other control stick. 42 Tri-Pacer Final Assembly 15 On each side of the rear Fuselage Wall (under the Horizontal Stab), are two openings that can be popped out. a) Open the upper hole on the starboard side; this will be for the Elevator. b) Open the lower hole on the port side; this will be for the Rudder. 16 Cut two 5" pieces of nylon Sleeve. Each Sleeve will pass through a hole in F6 as it exits the rear of the Fuselage. 17 Position each Sleeve so that it protrudes from the Fuselage Wall by 1⁄2". Glue each Sleeve in place. 18 Slide both Control Sticks (with the attached rods) into the Fuselage. Insert a threaded rod into each nylon Sleeve until it emerges at the other end. 19 Attach a Clevis Keeper and a Clevis to the end of each threaded rod. (Thread half-way. You need room for adjustments.) 20 Position the Elevator's Clevis pin directly below the Horizontal Stab/Elevator joint. Mark on the Elevator where the Control Horn should be installed such that its top hole will meet the Clevis' pin. 21 Position the Rudder's Clevis pin directly beside the Fuselage Wall/Rudder joint. Mark on the Rudder where the Control Horn should be installed such that its top hole will meet the Clevis' pin. 22 Install the Control Horns on the Elevator and Rudder. 23 Attach the Clevises to the last hole on each Control Horn. 24 At the Servos, mark and cut the bare rod where it passes the proper Servo. Cut the rod far enough to allow for a Z-bend. 25 Once both Control Rods are cut and z-bent, attach the zbends to the Servos and make adjustments. (Possible clevis installation shown in photo) Tri-Pacer 43 Final Assembly Side Window Template The Side Window template is provided on pages 52-53 of this manual and on Plan Sheet 1. Make two Side Windows. Note: The Side Windows should only be installed after the airplane has been covered. 1 Tape the clear plastic on top of the template. (Do not remove protective film from the plastic.) 2 Follow the path of the template with an X-acto knife. Do not try to cut all the way through the plastic. It's not necessary. It's better to score it, bend it a little and peel out the shape. 3 4 5 Remove the protective film. Position each Window on the outside of the Fuselage. Attach each Window to the side of the Fuselage. Windshield Template The Windshield template is on pages 52-53 of the manual and on Plan Sheet 1. 1 Follow the same steps to cut out this Windshield as you did to cut out the Side Windows (steps 1 to 3). 2 Attach top of the Windshield to the Windshield Top Plate with four of the saved Flat-Head Screws (saved from the Landing Gear Straps package). To do this, use an X-acto knife to pierce a hole at each top corner of the Window, carving into the spruce stick as well. 3 Secure the Windshield with a screw at each opening. Then install two more screws along the spruce stick, spaced evenly between the outer two. 4 Using masking tape, strap down the left and right sides of the Windshield so that the lower curved edge of the Windshield contacts the Fuselage, leaving no gap. 5 Install two screws on each side of the Windshield going into the very edge of F2. 6 44 Remove tape. Tri-Pacer Final Assembly 7 From the outside of the Windshield, slip a sheet of blank paper under the Windshield so that it lays across the top of the Fuselage. Position this paper as far back as possible. 8 With a pencil, outline the lower edge of the Windshield onto the paper. Use this outline as a guide for cutting out a section of black UltraCote/Monokote. 9 Once the shape is cut out of the covering, remove the Windshield. Iron the black covering in place and reattach the Windshield. 10 Cut a thin strip of UltraCote/Monokote ⁄ " wide using the 38 same color you are covering the Fuselage in. This strip will run along the bottom edge of the Windshield. (A) 11 With a covering iron set to low temperature, tack/stretch this strip to secure the bottom edge of the Windshield to the Fuselage. A Tri-Pacer 45 Final Assembly Sanding 1 In order to achieve a realistic look for your Tri-Pacer, you will need to round a few of the sharper edges by sanding particularly those that the covering will go around (i.e. the edge of the Upper and Lower Tail Wall). 2 Note that the Fuselage Side Wall has been rounded along the diagonal-cut (B). This is to "feather" the change in direction at that point. B 3 The forward sections of the Fuselage near the windows may also need this feathering technique for a smooth, finished appearance. 4 Sand smooth areas where CA glue has left the surface rough. Otherwise, the texture may show through your covering. B 46 Tri-Pacer Final Assembly Wing Mounting Bolts 1 From the underside of the Wing, drill a 1⁄4" hole through the Wing Bolt Plate, out through the stacked balsa and the covering. 2 3 Install Wing on Fuselage. Use a 1/4x20 tapping bit to create threads in the Bolt Mounting Plates. 4 Install nylon Bolts into the Wing and into the Bolt Mounting Plates. 5 6 7 Mark a circle around the head of the nylon Bolts. Remove Bolts. Carve a recessed area for the nylon Bolts to sit within as shown. Wing Struts Important – Before Building Wing Struts: The Wing and Fuselage should be covered before you begin building your Wing Struts. After the Fuselage is covered, apply 2 strips of adhesive foam rubber along the Fuselage opening for the Wing. 1 2 3 Locate two 48"x3⁄8"x3⁄8" sticks and two 48"x1⁄4"x1⁄4" sticks. Use Plan Sheet 2 to build one of the Wing Struts. Trim each stick to match lengths and angles shown on the Plans. 4 5 Assemble and glue sticks. Because all pieces in a Strut are built flush to one side, you must flip over the first, completed Strut and build the second Strut on top of it. The second Strut's flush side should be opposite to the first Strut's flush side. See the difference shown between the two Struts at (A). 6 Scrap balsa is used to fill in the triangular cavity where both Strut Arms meet. (B) Tri-Pacer A B 47 Final Assembly 7 Carve a Hinge-sized recessed area at the three Hinge locations per Strut arm, to seat the three Hinges. 8 With cotter pins removed, pin Hinges in place with round toothpicks. Wick in Thin CA. Clip toothpick tops when the glue has cured. (Be sure the lower Hinge will mate with the Hinge on the Fuselage. ) 9 Sand the ends of each Strut to taper to the Hinge. (C) 10 The unattached Hinge-mates will be glued to the underside C of the Wing. There must be a wood-on-wood contact. Therefore, each Hinge-mate will be capped with a square of 1⁄16" sheeting. a) First you must determine which side of the Hinge will attach to the Wing. b) Mark that side. c) Next you must roughen that side's surface so score in some cross-hatching with a knife. d) Cut pieces of 1⁄16" balsa to fit each of the four Hinge-mates. e) Glue them to the scored sides. f) Cover the Hinge with covering, leaving the wood side exposed as shown. (D) D 11 Reassemble Hinges with cotter pins and connect the Struts to the Hinge on the lower Fuselage. 12 Mark where each Strut Arm contacts the Wing. (shown as M1 and M2 on Plan Sheet 2. M1's position should be 13⁄4" from the leading edge.) 13 With a knife, remove a small section of the Wing covering, revealing the wood underneath. 14 Glue wooden Hinge cap over the opening as shown. (E) 15 Detach Struts from plane. 16 Sand both Struts to a teardrop shape as seen on Plan Sheet 2. 17 Cover each Strut with covering. 18 Reassemble Struts and open the ends of the cotter pins for E the two upper cotter pins. Note: The lower Hinge point can be fitted with a release pin. This pin will need to be removed every time the Wing needs to be removed from the plane. 48 Tri-Pacer Air Scoop PLY N1 PLY Tri-Pacer 49 N2 N3 50 Tri-Pacer N4 N5 Tri-Pacer 51 Cut Templates 1 2 Photocopy these two pages (52 & 53) 4 times to create templates for the 2 Side Windows, the Windshield and the Cowl. Align both pages on the "+" marks and tape together. Tri-Pacer 52 Tri-Pacer 53 104 Malcolm St. Almonte, Ontario, Canada K0A 1A0 © 2004-2005 MosquitoBite Planes All Rights Reserved www.mosquitobiteplanes.com