Troubleshooting Guide

Transcript

Troubleshooting Guide This troubleshooting guide outlines quick fixes to the most common technical questions about the ElliptiGO. If the problem persists or you feel uncomfortable performing these actions, please contact ElliptiGO’s Service Department ([email protected], 858-222-7309) How To: I. Properly Inflate Tires II. Free a Stuck Front Wheel III. Adjust Front Brakes from Rubbing IV. Attach Front Brake Cable V. Adjust Gears from Slipping VI. Properly Change Stride Length VII. Remove Track Noise Overview of Terms For full antamony of ElliptiGO, please see the owners manual Brake Cable Noodle Brake Cable Bolt5mm Brake Cable Housing Brake Caliper Brake Pad Bolt-5mm Brake Post Bolt Brake Spring Tension Screw Fork Drops Tension Nut-Front Skewer Quick Release Lever I. How to Properly Inflate Tires: For a video demonstration on the procedure below, please view this link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-naPT6vYgo ElliptiGO comes equipped with tubes that have a long, skinny valve called a Presta valve. These valves are commonly found on high pressured inner tubes and feature an outer valve stem and an inner valve body. In order to inflate your tires, you will first have to unscrew the captive nut (see photo on left). Then, place your bicycle pump head over the valve to begin inflating. Please note that older bicycle pumps may only have the Schrader valve head (such as the type found on your car). Many bicycle pumps available at your favorite bicycle or sporting goods store will have dual heads for either Presta or Schrader valves. You can still use a Schrader pump to inflate a Presta tube, but to do so you will need a Presta Valve Adapter (see photo below). To use the Presta Valve Adapter, screw in the threaded side to your bicycle pump head, and then place the round open side over your ElliptiGO tube valve. Inflate your tires to 85-90 PSI. Although your ElliptiGO has tires rated to 100 PSI, we have found best performance and tire life optimal at 85 PSI. Retighten the captive nut to seal the valve. Tire pressure will naturally decrease (especially if you haven’t ridden in awhile) so before every ride, check your tire pressure and top off if necessary. If the ElliptiGO has been sitting for a length of time, you will want to fill the tires with air prior to riding. Do not ride on an under inflated tire. This will not only cause excess wear on the tire, but also affect how the ElliptiGO handles. Also, be careful not to over inflate the tire as it could cause a blowout. II. How to Free a Stuck Front Wheel: If the front wheel is not spinning there are a few situations that could be contributing to the problem, including the front wheel not being properly seated in the fork or the brake pads are stuck on the wheel. Below are the steps you can perform to resolve the problem, starting with the most common fix: For a video demonstration on the procedure below, please view this link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fozLT9AoXmY A. Check that the brake cable is properly seated in the brake lever (see photo below) B. Re-seat the wheel 1. Place the ElliptiGO on the kickstand and on a flat surface. 2. Check the rotational direction arrow on the tire. The arrow will need to rotate clockwise when riding. 3. Open the quick release lever on the front wheel. (see photo below) 4. Insert the wheel into the fork drops. Press down on the head tube of the ElliptiGO to ensure the wheel is properly seated. If the wheel is not wanting to seat, the tension nut may need to be loosened to allow for more clearance. Now apply downward pressure to the frame and fork with the wheel resting on the ground, while at the same time closing the quick release lever. The lever should be facing rearward. (see photo below) 5. Now reattach the brake cable. (see photo below) 6. Rotate the wheel while looking and listening for the brake pad rubbing. If rubbing is present, start again at step 3 (or move to C) 3. 4. 5. tension nut II. How to Free a Stuck Front Wheel: con’t C. Check the break pad to ensure that it is not rubbing. 1. If the tire is seated properly but the brakes are still rubbing or the front wheel is stuck, the next thing to check is the location of the brake pad. It should be even/parallel with the rim and should not be touching the tire. 2. To move the brake pad, use a 5mm Allen wrench and loosen the brake pad bolt to relocate the brake pad so it breaks properly against the rim then retighten. (see photo below) 2. III. How to Adjust Front Brakes from Rubbing: If your front wheel is spinning, but movement is restricted because the front brakes are rubbing the wheel there are a few situations that could be contributing to the problem, including the front wheel not being properly seated in the fork or the brakes need to be readjusted. Below are the following steps you can perform to resolve the problem, starting with the most common fix: For a video demonstration on the procedure below, please view this link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVARgsZIgYM A. Check that the brake cable is properly seated in the brake lever. (see photo below) B. Re-seat the wheel 1. Place the ElliptiGO on the kickstand and on a flat surface. 2. Check the rotational direction arrow on the tire. The arrow will need to rotate clockwise when riding. 3. Open the quick release lever on the front wheel. (see photo below) 4. Insert the wheel into the fork drops. Press down on the head tube of the ElliptiGO to ensure the wheel is properly seated. If the wheel is not wanting to seat, the tension nut may need to be loosened to allow for more clearance. Now apply downward pressure to the frame and fork with the wheel resting on the ground, while at the same time closing the quick release lever. The lever should be facing rearward. (see photo below) 5. Now re-attach the brake cable. (see photo below) 6. Rotate the wheel while looking and listening for the brake pad rubbing. If rubbing is present, start again at step 3 (or move to C). 3. tension nut 4. 5. III. How to Adjust Front Brakes from Rubbing: con’t For a video demonstration on the procedure below, please view this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVARgsZIgYM C. Front brakes rubbing lightly 1. If the wheel is seated properly but light rubbing persists when the wheel is spinning, you may need to make adjustments to the brakes. You will need a Phillips head screwdriver for “C” series or a 3mm Allen wrench for the 8S/11R models. 2. Adjust the spring so the brake pad does not rub on the rim. Stand so the front wheel is between your feet and you are facing the ElliptiGONote that when you face the cycle, the left brake pad is on your right side and the right brake pad is on your left. Make the adjust- ments as mentioned below. i. If the right side brake pad is rubbing, tighten the spring tension screw to move the pad away from the rim and loosen the left side spring to center the brakes between the wheel. (see photo below) ii. If the left side brake pad is rubbing, tighten the spring tension screw on the left side and loosen the right side tension spring to center the brakes between the wheel. (see photo below) i. ii. Tighten right side bolt counter clockwise Tighten left side bolt clockwise IV. How Attach Front Brake Cable: If you cannot get the front brake cable to attach because the cable feels tight, there are a few situations that could be contributing to the problem including the brake cable not being seated at the handlebars or may need to loosen the brake cable nut. For a video demonstration on the procedure below, please view this link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVARgsZIgYM A. Check that the brake cable is properly seated in the brake lever. (see photo below) B. Check the front brake cable to ensure that it is not too tight, if it is then: 1. Loosen the brake cable bolt (turning counterclockwise) by using a 5mm Allen wrench. (see below) 2. Use one hand to hold the brake calipers. 3. Let out some of the excess cable, just enough to be able to attach the brake cable noodle into the brake housing. 4. Re-tighten the brake cable bolt (turning clockwise). See secton III C if brakes are lightly rubbing on rim. 1. V. How to Adjust Gears from Slipping: Internally geared hubs work differently than traditional bicycles with derailleur systems. An internal hub uses cable spring tension to shift gears. When climbing a hill while trying to shift into an easier gear, applying tension to the chain could result in the gear not releasing properly and not shifting into that gear. When shifting while climbing, it is best to ease off the pedal stroke then shift. To shift properly, fully depress the shifter and allow it to set fully into gear. When riding on flat terrain, an effective way to shift smoothly with the internal hub is to shift at the end of the pedal stroke before the next power stroke begins. If you are shifting properly and still experiencing gear slippage, you may need to adjust your hub. For a video demonstration on the procedure below, please view this link: http://youtu.be/_NA-dpzSRfY A. For 3C: If you are noticing a slight lag or gap when shifting the 3C, this is normal. Anticipating when to shift and easing into the pedal stroke will help smooth the transition between shifting gears and riding. 1. Place the cycle on the kickstand and on a flat surface. 2. Check the shifter cable by following the cable from the handlebars down through the frame to make sure the cable is fully seated and not pinched in the mudguard or not seated properly in the frame bosses. (see photo below) 3. Shift into 3rd gear then down to 2nd gear at the handlebar gear shifter. 4. Move to the rear of the cycle and check if the hub is properly aligned- the yellow arrow should be in the middle of the yellow lines. (see photo below) 2. 4. CORRECT INCORRECT V. How to Adjust Gears from Slipping: con’t 3C 5. If the hub is not aligned you will need to make an adjustment. To adjust the 3C hub, use the barrel adjuster at the handlebars on the gear shifter. 6. When facing the barrel adjuster: rotate the barrel adjuster forward (clockwise) if the arrow is above the yellow lines to tension the cable. Rotate the barrel adjuster backward (counterclockwise) if the arrow is below the yellow lines to loosen tension on the cable. (see photo below) 7. Shift into 3rd gear and then back to 2nd gear and check the alignment. If the hub is still not aligned repeat steps 6-7. 6. V. How to Adjust Gears from Slipping: con’t B. For 8C/8S: For a video demonstration on the procedure below, please view this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgFZc65F_oY 1. Place the ElliptiGO on the kickstand and on a flat surface. 2. Check the shifter cable by following the cable from the handlebars down through the frame to make sure the cable is fully seated and not pinched in the mudguard or not seated properly in the frame bosses. (see photo below) 3. Shift down to 1st gear, then up to 5th gear and then down to 4th gear. 4. Move to rear of the cycle in the small display window if the two yellow set lines are aligned. If they are aligned (photo 4) no further action is needed. If they are not aligned, follow next steps. 5. The left (or inside) yellow set line is stationary and your “true point.” If the right (outside) yellow set line is above the left one, rotate the barrel adjuster on the handlebar clockwise. If the right (outside) yellow line is below the left one, rotate the barrel adjuster counter clock wise to tension the cable. When making the adjustments with the barrel adjuster, you should be facing the front wheel with the barrel adjuster in front of you (rear wheel behind you). (See photo below) 6. Continue rotating the barrel adjuster until the two yellow set lines are parallel. Repeat step 3 to make sure hub is in proper alignment after you have made your adjustments. 2. 4. 5. V. How to Adjust Gears from Slipping: con’t C. For 11R: For a video demonstration on the procedure below, please view this link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CJIedR7-OQ 1. Place the ElliptiGO on the kickstand and on flat surface. 2. Check the shifter cable by following the cable from the handlebars down through the frame to make sure the cable is fully seated and not pinched in the mudguard or not seated properly in the frame bosses. (see photo below) 3. Shift up to 11th gear then down to 6th gear. 4. Move to rear of ElliptiGO and check the alignment of the two yellow set lines by the hub. (see photo below) 5. The left (or inside) yellow set line is the adjustment line and the right (outside) yellow set line is your “true point.” If the left (inside) yellow low set line is above the right one, rotate the barrel adjuster on the handlebar clockwise. If the left (outside) yellow line is below the right one, rotate the barrel adjuster counterclockwise to tension the cable. (see photo below) 6. Continue rotating the barrel adjuster until the two yellow set lines are parallel. Repeat step 3 to make sure hub is in proper alignment. 2. 4. 5. VI. How to Properly Change Stride Length: For a video demonstration on the procedure below, please view this link: http://youtu.be/FJY9Qxm54LM 1. Place the ElliptiGO on the kickstand and on flat surface. If the bike is equipped with drive arm axle retention screw (1a), proceed to step 2. If it does not have a drive arm axle retention screw (1b), skip step 2 and proceed to step 3. 2. Looking at the bike from the left side, use a 2.5mm Allen wrench to loosen the right drive arm axle retention screw. Rotate the Allen wrench clockwise until the screw is completely removed. (see photo below) 3. Insert 6mm Allen wrench into the back of the right drive arm axle. While holding the drive arm still, rotate the Allen wrench clockwise until the drive arm axle is completely unscrewed. (see photo below) 4. Remove the washer from the crank arm counter-bore and insert it into the counter-bore of the new position. (see photo below) 5. Insert the drive arm axle into the new mounting position on the right crank arm. Using a 6 mm Allen wrench on the back of the drive arm axle, rotate it counter-clockwise (still looking at bike from from left side) to tighten it. While tightening, ensure that the washer stays seated flat into the counter-bore on the crank arm. If the bike is equipped with a drive arm axle retention screw, proceed to step 6. If it does not have a drive arm axle retention screw, skip step 6 and proceed to step 7. 6. Insert the right drive arm axle retention screw into the back of the drive arm axle. Using a 2.5mm Allen wrench, turn the right drive arm axle retention screw counter-clockwise until the flange is flush against the drive arm axle. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN the screw. 7. Repeat steps 2-6 for the left drive arm. **Note: The left drive arm axle is left hand threaded. To loosen, turn counter-clockwise and to tighten, turn clockwise. (see photo below) Loosen Loosen 1.a 1.b. 2. Tighten 4. 5. 3. Loosen Tighten 6. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN 7. VI. How to Properly Change the Stride Length: con’t Experiencing Difficulties with Adjusting Stride Length: For a video demonstration on the procedure below, please view this link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-KND18FQWI If you are changing the stride length and having difficulties with threading the drive arm bolt into the crank arm threads, here are instructions to help keep from cross threading the crank arm threads. The crank arm material is much softer than the drive arm bolt material, when the threads do not match, trying to force them will result in cross threading. With the drive arm bolt just started in the crank arm threads, rotate the crank arm either clockwise or counter clockwise to find the sweet spot of the threads. Sometimes, you will need to rotate the crank arm a full 180 degrees to find the spot that both sets of threads will align. The drive arm bolt should turn easily and not be forced into position. If you have cross threaded your crank arm, bring your ElliptiGO to a bicycle shop and have the mechanic retap the threads using a 9/16” pedal tap. Note, this is not covered under warranty. VII. How to Remove Track Noise: The design of the ElliptiGO is friction based; the load wheels roll along the track inserts to power the cycle forward. There is already lubrication in both the load wheels and track inserts, so there is no need to apply any sort of lubrication to either of those mechanisms. The result of the load wheels rolling along the tracks produces a “whooshing” noise, which is normal. Over time, dirt and debris can collect in the track inserts or on the load wheels, thus creating a louder ‘whoosh’ or grinding noise. This can be eliminated by wiping down the track inserts and load wheels after each ride. A water dampened rag to get rid the mud or dirt will work well on both the track inserts and load wheels. If a thumping noise or feeling is felt in the tracks, there may be a piece of sap, tar or some other type of sticky debris on the tracks or load wheels. Use a plastic scrapper or even a fingernail to remove then wipe down the track inserts and load wheels to rid the issue. There is no need to stop riding if the louder ‘whoosh’ becomes present or a thumping in the tracks unless it completely impedes the pedaling motion. If you notice something such as a rock or glass in the tracks, remove it immediately. If a repetitive clicking noise is present while riding or a foreign noise, please contact the service department at [email protected] or calling 858-222-7309. Cleaning track inserts with cloth Cleaning load wheels with cloth